Entrance into South Carolina—Route from Cheraw to Cambden—Monument
erected to Baron de Kalb—Road from Cambden to Charleston—Rejoicing
in Charleston—Colonel Huger—History, Institutions, and Manners of
the South Carolinians.
Twenty-four hours after our departure from Fayetteville, in the midst of
a pine forest, we met the deputation of the state of South Carolina to
General Lafayette. This meeting took place on the confines of the two
states. Our kind and amiable travelling companions from North Carolina
delivered us to their neighbours, with the most lively expressions of
regret at a separation which cost us as much as them, and we continued
our route in new carriages, with a new escort of friends, till we
arrived at Cheraw, a pretty little town, which, three years previous,
had not more than four houses built, and now contains about fifteen
hundred inhabitants. The next day’s journey was long and difficult;
sometimes, indeed, the road was almost impassable, being, in some
places, entirely cut up by the overflow of rivers, whilst in others we
could only cross the marshes by moving gently over a road formed of
badly arranged trunks of trees. In fact, we travelled so slowly, that
night overtook us on the road, and it soon became so dark that many of
the gentlemen of our escort lost the road, and not being able to trace
it in the sand, wandered into the forest. The carriages of the party
also began to stray from each other, and towards ten o’clock Mr. George
Lafayette and myself discovered that the one we rode in was at a great
distance behind the others. A few minutes after we felt a violent shock,
and heard a loud crash. Our carriage tongue was broken, and we were left
in the midst of the marsh. Our situation was extremely disagreeable, and
we should have had some difficulty to escape from it but for the
assistance of two dragoons who had never left us, and who obliged us to
mount their horses, which, after some minutes, brought us in sight of
the fires of the guard surrounding the house that was to serve us for an
asylum, where the general had arrived an hour before. In this house,
which stood altogether alone in the midst of the woods, we were well
accommodated. We had an excellent supper, and good beds, in which we
might probably have slept soundly but for the trumpet, which was sounded
all night for the purpose of rallying our scattered escort.
On arising, an entirely novel scene was presented to my view. We were in
the midst of what is called in America _a new settlement_, that is to
say, a clearing or erection of a new habitation in the woods. The house
in which we had passed the night was the only dwelling in the place, and
it was still unfinished. By its side they had begun to raise the frames
of some other buildings, doubtless intended for granaries and stables.
Numerous trunks of half hewn trees collected together showed that it was
the intention of the owner soon to erect other buildings, and already
the forest was prostrated to a considerable extent. But a few vast trees
were standing in the clearing, whose branches were not only lopped off,
but some of them were deprived of their bark, and blackened for their
whole length by the action of the flames which had been employed to burn
the brush about them. It is difficult to imagine any thing more desolate
than such a scene. “It is, nevertheless, in this way,” said one of our
travelling companions, “that all our little towns, which are so
attractive and lively, begin. Cheraw, where you slept yesterday, and
with which you were so much pleased, but a few years ago resembled this,
and, perhaps, should you return in four or five years, you may here find
another Cheraw. See,” continued he, taking me to a part of the forest
which the axe and the fire had still spared, “with what care and skill
the founder of this future city has laid the basis of a fortune which he
anticipates enjoying in a short time. Look at this lot of several acres,
surrounded by a strong fence, in which his cows, horses, and hogs are
enclosed. These last named animals, raised thus at large, and in the
enjoyment of abundance of food, soon multiply without number, and afford
him a certain part of his subsistence. The next year, that portion of
his land which comes to be cleared, will probably yield him a rich
harvest of corn or rice; but the proprietor, whilst waiting for the
growth of his crops, is obliged to obtain his bread by trading, and pays
for it in turpentine, collected from the enormous pines which surround
him. A small notch cut in the body of the tree, gives issue to a liquid
which is received in a trough. Three thousand trees furnish annually
seventy-five barrels of turpentine. But it is not only the young and
vigorous trees which contribute to his wants; he has recourse also to
those time has destroyed. From the dead trees he extracts tar, obtained
by burning the wood upon a grate, a kettle being placed beneath to
receive the boiling liquid. Sometimes from the plants which he clears
away from around his house, he obtains a considerable quantity of
potash, which still augments his wealth. Every year sees the cleared
land increase around him, and soon other _settlers_, encouraged by his
success, place themselves about him, and assist in erecting the new
village, in which he may be permitted to enjoy the public employments
conferred by his fellow citizens as a tribute to his talents and
patriotism.”
Whilst we were thus engaged in casting a rapid glance over the resources
of our host and his future destinies, General Lafayette concluded the
preparations for his departure, and, at a signal given by the trumpets,
we resumed our journey, passing through the sands and pines on our way
to Cambden, where we were to lodge. The weather had changed during the
night, and our march was now favoured by a clear sky. Although it was
the month of March, we felt the heat of the sun considerably, and every
thing around bore the appearance of advanced spring. On approaching
Cambden, where we saw a considerable number of well cultivated gardens,
we were a good deal surprised to find the trees in flower, and the balmy
air perfumed by the plants, as in France during the month of June.
Cambden is not a large town, containing only about two hundred
inhabitants. We nevertheless found there a very numerous population,
collected from more than eighty miles around, to receive General
Lafayette, and assist in laying the corner stone of a monument which
they were about erecting to the memoir of Baron de Kalb. General
Lafayette was received a little in advance of the town, near the old
quarters of Cornwallis, by all the citizens under arms, and was
conducted with great pomp, and in the midst of companies of young
ladies, to the dwelling prepared for him, where he was addressed by
Colonel Nixons, Jr. with a remarkable warmth of feeling. The attentive
crowd applauded the orator with transports, when he told the general
that his visit to the United States had added a new page to history, and
that the splendour of Greek and Roman triumphs faded before the
unanimity and harmony of this popular ovation.
On the morning of the next day, a long procession, formed chiefly of
free masons, followed by the civil authorities and deputations from the
different associations of South Carolina, came to the general’s
lodgings, and conducted him with solemn music towards the spot where De
Kalb’s funeral ceremony was to be performed. There the consecration of
the monument raised by the generous inhabitants of South Carolina to
unfortunate bravery, was performed. An inscription, in a style at once
noble and unaffected, reminds the country of the services and glorious
end of De Kalb.
It is well known that De Kalb was a German, who, after he had served a
long time in France, came to America, like Lafayette and Pulaski, to
offer his services in the cause of liberty. He was second in command in
General Gates’s army during the unfortunate affair of Cambden, where the
Americans were completely defeated. He had performed prodigies of valour
at the head of the Delaware and Maryland troops, when, towards the close
of the battle, he fell from his eleventh wound, an event which deprived
the American cause of one of its most able and devoted defenders.
After his remains, which had been carefully preserved, were deposited in
the monument, and had received military honours, the stone which was to
cover them was laid by General Lafayette. It contained the following
inscription:—_This stone was placed over the remains of Baron De Kalb by
General Lafayette, 1825._
The hand of the general resting upon the stone, followed it as it slowly
and gradually descended, whilst the multitude, in religious silence,
contemplated the French veteran, after almost half a century, rendering
the last offices to the German soldier, in a land which they both had
moistened with their blood, and which their arms had contributed to set
free. How many glorious and painful recollections must this scene have
awakened in the mind of Lafayette! Alas! during his long triumph, how
many tombs was it his lot to visit, from that into which he descended at
Mount Vernon, to the one soon to be raised at Bunker’s Hill!
The ceremony concluded by a discourse from the general, in which he paid
to his old companion in arms, that tribute of esteem which was due to
his civil virtues, his military talents, and undaunted courage, in
defending the cause of freedom.
We left Cambden on the 11th, to go to Columbia, the capital of the state
of South Carolina. This town is pleasantly situated upon a fertile and
healthy plain, on the shore of the river Congaree. We found all the
streets, through which the general and his escort were to pass,
ornamented with flags and triumphal arches. Upon one of these, three
young and beautiful girls supported flags, upon each of which were
inscribed, in letters of gold, the names of Lafayette, De Kalb, and
Pulaski. Under another, placed near the house we were to occupy, the
general was met and addressed by the mayor of the town, a young man of
distinguished talents, who, during our stay at Columbia, paid us the
most kind and delicate attentions. Governor Manning also addressed the
general, in the presence of the people assembled in the legislative hall
of South Carolina, and both the evening and morning were devoted to
public rejoicings.
The first evening, after having passed through the streets, which were
brilliantly illuminated, we paid a visit to the academy, under the
superintendence of the celebrated Dr. Cooper. We were agreeably
entertained by the professors, who are all of the first merit. Two of
them spoke French with great fluency. They informed us, that they had
resided a long time in Paris, where they were proud to have acquired
that knowledge which they were called upon to impart to their pupils.
The next day, several companies of militia, among which a corps formed
by the students of the academy, under the name of Lafayette Guards, were
distinguished, came to exercise under the general’s windows. We passed
the remainder of the day, in the midst of some of Lafayette’s veteran
companions in arms, who took a pleasure in recalling to his memory, the
times in which they had fought and suffered with him for the
independence of their country. In the evening, at a ball, rendered
remarkable by the beauty of the ladies gracing it, as well as for the
good taste displayed in the arrangements, we made acquaintance with a
young lady who inspired us with the most lively interest. She was the
wife of one of the professors. Born in Paris, she had only been
transplanted into this new soil about three months, in the midst of
manners which at first were altogether strange, but with which she now
appeared perfectly reconciled. She was introduced to the general, who
received her with great kindness. Towards the close of the evening, her
French and American feelings, strongly excited by the testimonials of
friendship and admiration she saw lavished upon Lafayette, suddenly
broke forth in transports which she was unable to suppress. “Heavens!”
exclaimed she, “how proud and happy I feel, to-day, in being a native of
France, and of the same country with General Lafayette!” Then, after
having sprung towards the general and kissed his hands, she returned to
me with great animation, and said: “Tell the general’s family, I beseech
you, how happy we should be to receive them here as we have received
him! And say to them, that for myself, I feel for the children of La
Grange the friendship of a countrywoman, and for Lafayette himself the
gratitude of an American.” This scene made a lively impression upon all
who witnessed it, and the general thanked the young lady with all the
ardour of a strongly agitated heart.
On the 14th of March, we set out for Charleston, intending to lodge some
miles from this city, as General Lafayette was not to make his entry
until the 15th. An escort of Columbia volunteer cavalry were formed in
line before the door, at the moment of our departure, anxious to
accompany the general all the way to Charleston; but he thanked them,
and insisted that they should not leave the town, as the road he had to
travel was both long and difficult, and there was moreover the
appearance of a heavy rain. It was, in fact, at a very late hour that we
arrived at our destination. The night and the rain caught us in the
midst of a thick forest, across which it was difficult to find our
narrow and devious way. About nine o’clock in the evening, the carriage
I rode in broke down. That of the general, which went before with the
governor and some officers of his staff, continued its route without
perceiving the accident; but that of Mr. George Lafayette, which at this
time happened to be in the rear, found its passage obstructed, and the
horses taking fright, plunged amongst the trees, where it stuck fast.
Mr. George, and his travelling companions, Colonel Preston and the Mayor
of Columbia, immediately alighted, and, by main strength, dragged their
carriage before mine. They offered me a seat along with them to continue
the journey, directing the servants to mount the horses and go in search
of light and assistance to repair the broken vehicle. I accepted their
offer, but had scarcely joined them, when Colonel Preston, who had taken
the reins, deceived by the darkness, carried us into the thickest of the
woods, and in such a situation, that we must have infallibly upset had
we proceeded a step further. Nothing was left for us now, but to remain
nearly an hour, under a driving rain, for the return of the servants,
who brought with them great pine torches. They now assisted us out of
our embarrassment, and at eleven o’clock at night, wet and extremely
fatigued, we reached the house of Mr. Izard, where we found the general
and his companions, who had arrived a long time before. The hospitable
table of Mr. Izard, his kind reception and that of his family, soon made
us forget our misfortunes, at which we were the first to laugh over the
dessert.
That the citizens of Charleston, who had made immense preparation to
receive the guest of the nation, might not be kept waiting, we resumed
our journey at a very early hour. At the moment when we were preparing
to take leave of the family of Mr. Izard, we saw an escort of volunteer
cavalry arrive from the city, with which we immediately set out. In
proportion as we advanced towards Charleston, the monotony of pine
forests disappeared. Our eyes now rested with pleasure upon clusters of
verdant and beautifully shaped saplings, among which superb magnolias
were majestically elevated. The entrance to the city appeared to us like
a delicious garden. The coolness of the night had condensed the perfumes
from the orange, peach, and almond trees, covered with flowers, and
embalmed the air. We stopped a few minutes to change the carriage and
allow the procession time to form, when, on a signal given by a cannon,
we commenced our entrance into Charleston.
The inhabitants of Charleston, as residents of the city which had
received the young Lafayette on his first arrival on American ground, in
1776, were eager to prove that no where more than among themselves, had
a stronger recollection of his devotion to the cause of liberty been
preserved. Accordingly, the reception which they gave him may be
compared, for the splendour of its decorations and public enthusiasm, to
the finest we had seen in the principal cities in the United States. The
militia of Charleston were joined by the militia from the most distant
parts of the state. Some companies of volunteer cavalry had, we were
told, marched fifty miles a day to take the post assigned them by their
patriotic gratitude.
Among the various corps which left the city to meet the general, there
was one which particularly attracted our attention. Its uniform was
precisely similar to that worn by the national guard of Paris at the
time of the French revolution. The language in which the men composing
this corps sounded forth their _vivat_, when the general passed before
them, showed us that they were Frenchmen, and we experienced a pleasing
emotion on hearing our countrymen unite their voices with those of
liberty and gratitude.
The French company joined the procession, and, actuated by a sentiment
of extreme delicacy, the Americans ceded to them the place of honour,
near the carriage of the general. The procession was soon increased by a
great number of parties, composed of the clergy, association of
Cincinnati, veterans of the revolutionary army, students of the
different faculties, officers of the United States army and navy, judges
of the different courts, children of the public schools, German, French,
Jewish, and Hibernian beneficent societies, the association of
mechanics, &c. &c. All these detachments were distinguished by the form,
colour, and devices of their flags; and the rest of the population
following on foot and on horseback, made the air resound with cries of
_Welcome, Lafayette_, which sounds, for nearly two hours without
intermission, were mingled with the thunder of cannon from the shipping
in port, and the ringing of all the bells. But amidst all these
expressions of public affection, that which penetrated the general’s
heart most was the touching and generous plan adopted by the citizens of
Charleston to share the honours of his triumph with his brave and
excellent friend Colonel Huger.
It is well known that during his imprisonment in the fortress of Olmutz,
General Lafayette was upon the point of being liberated by the devotion
of two men whom the same generous feelings had associated in this
dangerous enterprize. These were Dr. Bollman, a German physician, and
young Huger, an American, son of a descendant of a French family
proscribed by the revocation of the edict of Nantes, in whose house
Lafayette was received on his first landing in Charleston. A series of
unfortunate incidents caused the failure of this generous attempt, which
nearly cost them their lives, and occasioned Lafayette to be treated, by
his keepers, with increased severity. Upon his release from the Austrian
dungeons, young Huger returned to his country, where he found, in the
esteem of the public, the reward of his noble and perilous enterprize.
At present the father of a family, a planter, and colonel of militia, he
lives retired and generally beloved, on a fine estate within a few
leagues of Charleston. General Lafayette had already enjoyed the
pleasure of pressing him to his grateful heart, upon his arrival at New
York. When we entered Charleston, his fellow citizens insisted upon his
taking a place by the side of the nation’s guest, in his triumphal car,
where he shared the public felicitations and plaudits. At the feast, at
the theatre, or ball, every where, in fact, the name of Huger was
inscribed by the side of that of Lafayette, upon whom the citizens of
Charleston could confer no greater favour, than by testifying such a
high degree of gratitude for one who had formerly exposed himself in
attempting to restore him to liberty.
After the procession had passed through all parts of the town, it halted
at the court-house, where the mayor, at the head of the municipal
authorities, and in the presence of the people, addressed General
Lafayette.
The acclamations of the people followed the words of the orator, and the
reply of the general, who, with an eloquence rendered more impressive by
the grateful feelings of his heart, recalled the ancient obligations
which he owed the citizens of Charleston, the noble devotion of the
ladies of this patriotic city, and the courage of the Carolinians during
the whole course of the revolution.
Colonel Drayton also addressed the general on behalf of the association
of Cincinnati, after which we were conducted to the sumptuous lodgings
prepared for us, where, during the whole of the next day, the general
received the visits of all the corporations of the city. The company of
French fusileers we had observed on entering the city, presented
themselves first, the martial music at its head, saluting the general
with the two patriotic airs of _Yankee Doodle_ and the _Marseillois_.
Mr. Labatut and one of his companions then addressed the object of their
homage, after which the company filed off before him, blending with the
military honours they paid him, testimonies of the most tender
affection. When the general complimented the officers on the fineness of
their discipline, and good taste of their uniform, “We could not,” said
they, “have chosen one more honourable. Lafayette and our fathers wore
it in the glorious days of liberty in our country, and it incessantly
reminds us that the first duties of an armed citizen are, the
maintenance of public order, and the defence of the rights of man.” We
passed among these brave men some delicious moments, consecrated to the
recollections of our country. All spoke of it with tenderness and
enthusiasm, all expressed ardent wishes for her happiness. Among them
were some exiles!
Shortly after the French company had retired, we saw all the members of
the clergy arrive, assembled under the direction of the Rev. Dr.
Farnham, whom they had chosen for their orator. Among them were seen
Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Jews, Roman Catholics, and German and
French Protestants. To witness their touching union, and the testimonies
of their reciprocal liberality, one might have thought that they all
belonged to the same communion. I cannot introduce here the long and
eloquent discourse of Dr. Farnham, but I can assert, that, like that
pronounced by Bishop White of Philadelphia, it confirmed what I had
heard of the liberality of the clergy, which, without the support of a
government that seems ignorant of their existence, feels the necessity
of conciliating public esteem by the practice of true virtue.
I pass over the account of the balls, displays of artificial fire-works,
and entertainments given during our stay in Charleston, since it would
be nearly a repetition of what I have already said in relation to so
many cities. But, leaving the general surrounded by his old fellow
soldiers, at the head of whom he still found the worthy General
Pinckney, to be entertained with the glorious recollections of their
youthful days, I shall attempt a rapid sketch of the history of South
Carolina.
This portion of the North American continent was explored for the first
time by Jean Ponce de Leon, the Spanish governor of Porto-Rico. Struck
with the beauty of the vegetation, and the smiling aspect of the
country, he gave it the beautiful name of Florida. But not finding
either gold or silver mines, he gave up the plan of forming a
settlement. For a long time this country was coveted by the kings of
France, England, and Spain; but it was not till the year 1562 that
France decided upon asserting her claims. At the request of Admiral
Coligny, who was desirous of finding an asylum for the protestant party,
a naval officer named Ribaut, a native of Dieppe, was despatched with
two vessels and troops to survey the coast and form a settlement. Jean
Ribaut landed at the mouth of a river, under the thirtieth degree of
latitude, and established the right of possession by the erection of a
stone column, upon which he engraved the arms of France. After remaining
some time upon the coast, during which he entered into treaties of peace
with the natives of the country, he arrived at the mouth of Albemarle
river, where he formed his first settlement, which he called Carolina,
in honour of Charles IX. He raised for its protection a small fort,
which he garrisoned with about forty men, and leaving it under the
command of one of his officers named Albert, returned to France. This
governor being very severe in carrying into effect the discipline he had
established, was soon murdered by his soldiers, who, anxious to return
to their country, very soon embarked, and sailed for France. But
scarcely had they lost sight of the coast when they experienced such a
dead calm as kept them so long at sea that their provisions became
exhausted; and they had already begun to devour each other, when they
were met by an English vessel, which carried them to England, where
queen Elizabeth made them relate to her, with their own lips, the
account of their horrible adventures.
Two years afterwards, a new expedition sailed under the command of Réné
de Landonnière, to establish and protect the colony; but whether owing
to misfortune, or want of knowledge in the leader, the expedition was
attended with the most melancholy results. The complaints of the
colonists against Landonnière reached France, and determined the
government to send out Ribaut to take charge of their affairs. This
person was surprised at the mouth of May river by a Spanish squadron of
six vessels, which attacked him so fiercely that he could only escape by
entering the river. Determined to resist the Spaniards with vigour,
Ribaut landed his men, carefully entrenched them, and going in search of
the best troops of Landonnière, whom he left in Fort Carolina, with all
those who were unable to bear arms, embarked again to pursue the enemy.
But he was assailed during the night by a violent storm which drove his
vessels upon the rocks. It was with the greatest difficulty that he and
his companions gained the shore to surrender themselves to the
Spaniards, by whom they were basely murdered without mercy. The sick,
together with the women and children who remained in the fort, met with
the same fate. Landonnière, and a few of his family, were all that
escaped, and after a long time, succeeded almost by a miracle in getting
back to France, where they carried the news of the melancholy end of
their companions. By the court of France the horrible event was treated
with indifference, but the public did not conceal its indignation, and
many of the most influential men demanded vengeance. One of these, named
Dominic de Gourges, a gentleman of Gascony, resolved upon being the
avenger of his countrymen. He fitted out three vessels at his own
expense, took on board two hundred soldiers and eighty marines, arrived
at the mouth of the river May, where he showed himself under the Spanish
flag, landed under this disguise without being recognized, marched
rapidly upon Fort Carolina, of which, with two others, aided by the
natives, he soon obtained possession, conquered the Spanish garrisons,
razed the fortifications, and returned in triumph to France laden with
booty. This daring enterprise struck terror into the Spaniards, and for
ever disgusted them of Carolina, which, until the reign of Charles II.
of England, was abandoned to all the nations of Europe.
It was at this time that the English government, who had previously made
a settlement at the mouth of May River, under pretext of protecting some
families who had escaped the tomahawk of the Indians in Virginia, took
possession of all the country, situated between the 31st and 36th
degrees of latitude, and granted it to eight gentlemen of the court, the
king, _as proprietary of the royal castle of Greenwich_, reserving to
himself supreme authority, together with the fourth part of all the gold
and silver which might be found within the bounds of the territory. The
celebrated Locke was appointed to prepare a charter for the new colony.
By this constitution a species of royalty was transferred to the oldest
of the colonists, supported by an aristocracy which exhibited the
whimsical assemblage of lords, barons, landgraves and caciques, whose
powers and pretensions incessantly coming into collision, were soon
subjected to the tyranny of the palatine, for such was the title of the
superior officer whose precedence was derived entirely from his age.
This constitution, the abortive conception of a great genius, was
destroyed in 1720. The population of the colony soon increased rapidly,
in consequence of the political and religious persecutions, which at
that period desolated Europe. It received, almost at the same time,
English royalists, the parliamentists, and the non-conformists. France
sent the choicest of her citizens, proscribed by the edict of Nantes. In
1730, the mountains of Scotland saw their vanquished inhabitants going
thither in search of an asylum; and in 1745, it was further enriched by
the arrival of Swiss and German emigrants. From this time Carolina began
to be sensible of its strength, and to resist the abuse of power
manifested by the English government. She refused to pay taxes imposed
without her consent, and gave her sanction to the resolutions of the
colonial congress, to which she sent deputies in 1765. Nevertheless,
when, in 1775, it was resolved to break the chain which united Carolina
to the mother country, a division of opinion occurred among the
colonists, a considerable number of whom armed in favour of the British
government. A civil war was near breaking out, when a very extraordinary
occurrence led to the reconciliation of the parties. On the same day
that hostilities commenced at Lexington in Massachusetts, despatches
from England arrived at Charleston. The revolutionary committee seized
the mail containing the letters addressed to the governors of Virginia,
the two Carolinas, Georgia and East Florida, by which they were directed
to employ the force of arms to reduce the colonies to subjection. About
the same time, intelligence was received at Savannah, of an act of
parliament, authorising these governors to deprive the colonists of the
protection of the law and royal privilege, and confiscate their
property.
These various accounts having been published by the committee, inspired
all the citizens with the same sentiments of indignation, and the
councils being immediately called together, the question was proposed,
_Shall we die slaves, or live free?_ The reply could not be doubtful.
All swore to take up arms and defend their rights. Some indiscreet
tories, who attempted to maintain possession of the country by the
assistance of Indians, whom they had taken into pay, were soon
annihilated by the patriotic militia, who, after a long and painful
struggle against the English troops of Savannah, at length secured the
independence of Carolina by the celebrated victory gained at Eutau
Spring, in the year 1781.
It was in the midst of the troubles of war, in the year 1778, that
Carolina formed her first constitution. This, though very much in
conformity with the principles of the revolution, perhaps exhibited some
indications of the haste with which it was prepared. It was revised,
modified, and adopted in its present form, at Columbia, on the 30th of
June, 1790. Such as it now is, it would be considered in Europe highly
democratic; but, compared with the constitution of Pennsylvania, for
example, and those of some other states in the Union, it appears
altogether aristocratic. The conditions imposed upon the candidates for
governor, senators, and members of the assembly, restrict the eligible
to a very small number. The senators, chosen every four years, to the
number of forty-three, must be at least thirty years of age, have
resided in the state five years previous to the election, and possess an
unincumbered property worth three hundred pounds sterling. Should the
candidate not dwell in the district by which he is supported, his
property must be worth a thousand pounds sterling.
The representatives, to the number of twenty-four, are elected for two
years. They must be free white men, at least twenty-one years of age,
and the owners of property worth one hundred and fifty pounds sterling,
or instead, a plantation containing five hundred acres, and ten slaves.
Should the candidate not reside in the district where he is supported,
the value of his property is required to be five hundred pounds. He must
be a citizen of the state, in which he shall have lived at least three
years previous to the election.
It is obvious that both houses of the legislature are composed of a
portion of the richest proprietors only. It is from this legislative
power, blemished as it is with aristocracy, that the executive authority
springs; for it is by the union of the two houses that the governor, in
whom this power resides, is chosen. The conditions of eligibility for
governor are very high, and restrict the choice to a very small circle.
Every candidate for this office must be thirty years of age, a citizen
of the state, in which he must have resided at least ten years previous
to the election, and possess a clear estate worth fifteen hundred pounds
sterling. The powers of the governor only continue for two years. The
worst condition in the constitution is that imposing an obligation on
the senators to own slaves. I am well aware that it must necessarily
disappear before the abolition of slavery takes place, but does it not
appear to be placed there as an obstacle to abolition? And might not the
repeal of this article prove a salutary effort in favour of abolition?
As in all the other states of the Union, religious organization is in no
way connected with government, which only guarantees to the various
sects the free exercise of their religious rites, so long as such a
privilege is unattended by licentiousness, or is compatible with the
peace and security of the state. Ministers of religion are ineligible to
the office of governor, lieutenant-governor, and member of assembly, so
long as they continue in the exercise of their pastoral functions. The
sects are numerous and variable, as one may easily perceive from the
composition of the religious body that waited upon General Lafayette. It
may, perhaps, have been observed, that it was only whilst speaking of
the sects in South Carolina, that I mentioned the Jews. It is, in fact,
in this state alone, that they appear sufficiently numerous to attract
attention. Their number is computed at about twelve hundred, of whom the
city of Charleston contains about five hundred, who, during the late
war, distinguished themselves by their courage and patriotism,
furnishing a company of sixty volunteers for the defence of the country.
The rest of the United States contains little more than five thousand
Israelites, the most of whom are of English and German origin. Those of
South Carolina are more particularly of French and Portuguese descent.
The synagogue in Charleston was built in the year 1794. Previous to this
time the Jewish congregation of this city had only a small place for the
exercise of their religious rites. According to Dr. Theact’s description
of Charleston, the Israelites began to form into a society about the
year 1750. As soon as ten of them had united, (for this is the number
required by the Hebrew law for the public exercise of their religion,)
they procured a place convenient for their purpose. The present edifice
is spacious and elegant. The society that built it is called _Kalh
kadosh beth Eloem_, that is to say, the religious society of the house
of God. _Kalh_, or _society_, is the name common to the whole Hebrew
congregation. The actual number of subscribing members is about seventy,
which gives rather more than three hundred persons having the privilege
of the synagogue, as well as the other advantages connected with this
privilege. The society of Reformists amount to about fifty members,
which, with their families, make above two hundred of this order.
South Carolina is situated between the 32d and 33d degrees of latitude.
Its superficies contains about twenty-nine thousand square miles, the
soil being very variable. From the coast of the Atlantic to about
twenty-four miles within the interior, the country is a vast plain
rising imperceptibly about two hundred feet above the level of the sea;
its surface is divided into forests of pine, which grow in a sandy soil
of little value; extensive morasses, which render the air insalubrious
during the autumn; savannas, which produce only grass; and higher lands,
which are adapted to the growth of cotton. Rice is cultivated with
success near the rivers, whose inundations fertilize their borders.
Beyond the plain the country is mountainous, productive, and more
healthy than the lower districts, where the humidity of the rivers, and
the changeableness of temperature during the whole season, render
diseases very common.
This state contains 502,741 inhabitants, who may be divided into three
classes; 237,460 free whites, 6,806 free blacks, and 258,465 slaves. It
appears, that the number of slaves considerably surpasses that of the
free whites, so that this state has begun to feel the inconveniences of
slavery to such a degree, that fear has induced them to adopt measures
of safety, which infringe both the laws of humanity and the rights of
property. By a recent law, every traveller, who enters Carolina with a
black servant, finds that he is immediately taken from him, imprisoned,
and only returned to him when he is about to leave the state. What is
the utility of this measure, is a question I find myself very much
embarrassed to answer. It is, say they, to prevent dangerous
communications, between the slaves of that state and the free black
strangers, who never fail to talk to them of liberty.
This state of things in relation to slavery in South Carolina, is the
more distressing from its singular contrast with the character of the
inhabitants of that state. The Carolinians are particularly
distinguished for the cultivation of their minds, the elegance of their
manners, their politeness and hospitality towards strangers. This last
virtue is so common in Carolina, that one finds very few taverns out of
the large towns. Travellers may boldly present themselves at the houses
of the planters which they find on their road, and are sure of being
well received. The disposition to assist the indigent is so great at
Charleston, that besides a great many private associations, they have
five public charitable societies, whose revenues, already very
considerable, are still daily increased by the liberality of the
citizens.
The three days which General Lafayette passed at Charleston were marked
by entertainments whose brilliancy and refinement delighted him; but of
all the delicate attentions that were paid him, the most touching,
perhaps, was the gift, made him by the city, of a beautiful portrait of
his friend Colonel Huger. This beautiful miniature, of an appropriate
size, unites the merit of perfect likeness with the most admirable
execution. It strongly resembles the style of our celebrated Isabey, and
would not have been disowned by him. It was executed by Mr. Frazer of
Charleston, who already enjoys a great reputation in the United States,
but has probably surpassed himself in this work. The frame of solid
gold, is more valuable for the elegance and delicacy of the workmanship
than the richness of its material. It came from the workshop of two
artists of Philadelphia, and would have done honour to our most
experienced French jewellers.
The governor presented the general, in the name of the state, with a
beautiful map of South Carolina, enclosed in a rich case of silver. Many
other persons came also to offer handsome keepsakes, which he gratefully
accepted.
On the 17th of March he left Charleston, carrying with him the regrets
of his friends, and the blessings of the people.