The guide had come provided with some Bengal lights, one of which he

kindled on the altar, bringing into light this strange temple; then, as

the flame burnt out, the whole vanished as if by magic. Passing across

a wooden bridge, resting on piers of salt, they entered a vast irregular

vault in which were two obelisks of salt, to commemorate the visit of

Francis the First and his empress. As they reached the floor, a boy ran

along the bridge above with a burning Bengal light, which threw flashes

of blue lustre on the obelisks, the scarred walls, the vast arches, the

entrance to the deeper halls, and the lofty roof, fretted with the picks

of the workmen. Another hall was entered, with cavernous tunnels at the

farther end, passing through one of which, they embarked upon a lake in

a heavy, square boat, and entered a gloomy passage, over the entrance to

which was inscribed, in salt letters, "Good luck to you." Midway in the

tunnel the halls at either end were suddenly illuminated, and a crash,

as of a hundred cannon bellowing through the vaults, shook the air in

such a way that the boat had not ceased to tremble when they landed in

the farther hall. The noise was produced by a single gun.

A tablet, on which was inscribed, "A hearty welcome," greeted them on

landing. At a depth of 450 feet their journey ceased, although they

were but half-way to the bottom. About 1500 men are employed in the

mines, who labour only six hours at a time, and live in the upper world.

The blocks are first marked out on the surface by a series of grooves.

One side is then deepened to the required thickness, and wedges being

inserted under the block it is soon split off. This salt bed occupies a

space of 9000 feet in length and 4000 in width, and consists of five

successive stages, separated from each other by intervening strata of

from 100 to 150 feet in thickness, and reaching to the depth of 1500

feet.

More than ten years ago a serious accident, which threatened the

destruction of the mine, occurred. While boring, to obtain some potash

salts, through an aquiferous stratum, a spring was tapped, which poured

an immense quantity of water into the lower galleries. The inhabitants

feared not only the ruin of the mine, but the falling in of their houses

from the melting of the salt pillars; but fortunately the inundation was

confined to the lower galleries, and a powerful steam-engine being set

to work, the water was again pumped out, and the spring blocked up.

However, so vast are the excavations that it would have taken many years

to fill them.

Contrasting with the bright glitter of the salt mines of Wieliczka are

the gloomy slate quarries of Saint Peter's Mount, near Maestricht, in

the Netherlands, the most extensive in the world. For centuries they

have been worked, both for building and manuring, and probably

benefiting the agriculturist more than the architect. In spring and

summer the labourers occupy themselves in their fields above ground, and

not until winter approaches do they begin to burrow in the entrails of

the earth.

The two travellers followed a trusty guide through those endless

passages, which constantly crossed each other, either to the left hand

or to the right. Darkness to be felt, silence profound, reigned

everywhere, even the human voice seemed to die away without awakening an

echo--the only sound to be heard being an occasional dropping of water

from the roof into a small pool below.

Suddenly the guide extinguished his torch, when, bold as they were, and

well accustomed to subterranean regions, a sensation of awe crept over

them. Their first impulse was to feel for the wall, for in vain their

eyes sought a ray of light, as in vain, also, their ears listened for

the slightest sound.

Neither spoke for some minutes, and they experienced a sensation of

relief when the guide relit his torch. Numbers of hapless beings have

been lost in these trackless galleries, and here and there are

inscriptions on the walls, notifying that a corpse was found on the

ground below. One poor workman lost his way, and roamed about until his

torch died out of his burnt fingers. The lamp of another was

overturned, and he in vain endeavoured to find his way out of some

remote gallery.

A French geologist while exploring the quarry discovered a corpse

shrivelled to a mummy, the hat lying close to his head, a rosary in his

hand. It was conjectured to be the body of a workman who had died more

than half-a-century before, the dry air and the absence of insects

explaining the preservation of the corpse. Two centuries ago four

Franciscan monks resolved to construct a chapel in honour of their

tutelar saint. In order to be able to retrace their steps, they took

with them a large ball of twine, leaving one end secured to a spot where

people were constantly passing. Their twine unwound, they at length

reached a vast hall, probably not visited for many ages. Near the

entrance one of them drew a sketch of the convent, and wrote beneath it

the date of their discovery. When about to return, what was their

horror to find that their twine had snapped. They must have searched

for it in vain, for never more did they return.

At last the prior, alarmed at their absence, sent parties to explore the

excavations, but so vast were they even then, that seven days elapsed

before the corpses of the hapless friars were found, their faces

downwards, and their hands folded as if in prayer.

During the siege of Maestricht by the French Republic, a party of the

besiegers occupied the quarries. The Austrians who garrisoned Fort

Pierre at the back of the mountain, formed a plan to drive them out, and

tunnelling made their way towards their enemies. Although they marched

silently along, their torches betrayed them, and the besiegers pouring

in a volley of musketry killed a large number, made prisoners of some,

and drove the rest into the depths of the cavern.

On the banks of the Nile are several prodigious stone quarries, from

which the cities of ancient Egypt were built. Perhaps the largest is

that of Haggar Silsibis. Here passages, broad as streets, with walls

fifty or sixty feet high, now stretching straight forward, now curved,

extend from the east bank of the river into the heart of the mountain,

where halls have been hollowed out large enough to contain the Roman

Colosseum, the rough hewn irregular roof resting upon immense square or

many-sided pillars, some of which are eighty to a hundred feet in

circumference. Here numerous blocks, already completely separated from

the rock, appear ready to be transported; the labours of the quarry-men

having suddenly been arrested by the invasion of the Conqueror, who

overthrew the priests of Isis.

One of the most curious quarries of ancient days is found near Syracuse.

The greater portion is a hundred feet below the level of the earth, and

of vast extent, the whole hewn out of rock as hard as marble, the blocks

thus obtained being employed in building Syracuse. It is converted by

the monks, who have a convent above it, into a garden--a romantic and

beautiful spot, as no wind can touch it. It is filled with a variety of

vines and shrubs and fruit trees, among which oranges, citrons,

pomegranates, and figs grow luxuriantly, and obtain an unusual size.

Sicily produces sulphur in large quantities--the chief sulphur pits

being near Girgenti. Most of the inhabitants are employed in them, to

the neglect of the rich soil of their island; they labour away in the

most primitive manner, pickaxe and spade being the only implements

employed.

When a promising vein is struck, the miners set to work, and filling

their baskets with the sulphur, carry it out and throw it into large

heaps of a conical shape. These mounds are covered over with moist

clay, some openings being left for the escape of smoke; the bottom is

then ignited, and the matted sulphur flows out through grooves into

pans, where it congeals in solid masses. The passages to the mines are

so narrow, that persons can with difficulty pass each other; they then

expand into high vaults, the roofs of which are ornamented with

beautiful crystals of celestine and gypsum. On account of the excessive

heat, the workmen labour in a nearly nude state, their dark brown skins

sprinkled with light yellow sulphur dust, making them look savage and

strange in the extreme. Towards the end of the last century, the

sulphur mine of Sommatin caught fire, the conflagration causing the

complete abandonment of the pit. For two years it raged, until the

mountain, suddenly bursting asunder, a stream of molten sulphur gushed

forth, and precipitated itself into the neighbouring river. The mass of

sulphur, amounting to upwards of 40,000 tons, was thus obtained by the

owners of the former pit, who had believed themselves ruined.

There are sulphur mines in different parts of the world, the largest of

which are in Japan, but too remote to be worked with advantage. Gypsum,

or sulphate of lime, better known as Plaster of Paris, is found in

prodigious quantities at Montmartre, close to that city; but as it can

readily be worked without having recourse to subterranean excavation, it

need not be mentioned further.

When gypsum assumes an opaque, consistent, and semi-transparent form, it

is known as Alabaster. The largest quarries are near Volterra, in

Italy. Here the whole population have been employed for centuries,

either in cutting it out of the mine, or in converting it into elegant

forms of great variety, which are sent to all parts of the world.

Great Britain possesses inexhaustible alabaster mines in the

neighbourhood of Derby. Some is worked on the spot, but the finest

blocks are sent to the studios of sculptors.

Quicksilver, or mercury, is among the rarest of metals. The only two

important mines in Europe are at Almaden, in Spain, and Idria, in

Carniola. The former, situated on the Sierra Morena, was for many years

farmed off to the Fuggers of Augsburg, but are now worked either by

government or private companies. This was one of the most interesting

spots visited by the two travellers.

Entering a spacious tunnel, completely walled with solid masonry, they

advanced into the very bosom of the mountain. Here galleries branch out

in various directions, hewn in the slate forming the matrix of the vein.

One of them leads to a vast circular hall, called the Boveda de Santa

Clara. At one time a horse gin was employed in this hall for raising

the ore, but at present this work is performed through a shaft

descending to the lowest level of the mine. Convenient steps lead down

from another gallery to the first working level, and thence the descent

is by short ladders to deeper storeys. The galleries are of a

sufficient height to allow a person to work upright. The upper ones are

dry, but the lower are humid and damp, although the water is easily

raised by hand-pumps from storey to storey into a large receiver, which

is emptied by a steam-engine. So extremely rich are the veins, that

although worked for many centuries, the mine has scarcely yet reached a

depth of 1140 feet. The present quantity raised annually amounts to

eighty-thousand hundredweight of pure mercury. The ore known as

cinnabar is of a dark-red colour, and gives a beautiful appearance to

the galleries. Sometimes when a hewer detaches a block of ore with his

pick mass of quicksilver, the size of a pigeon's egg, rolls out, and

leaping along the floor, divides into thousands of small drops. Owing

to the imperfect apparatus with which the ore is sublimated, nearly

one-half is lost. Formerly criminals only were employed in these mines.

They were conducted at sunrise from prison by a subterranean passage

into the mine, and compelled to toil on until the evening, when they

were led back again to their dungeons. In a few years the greater

number died, through inhaling the poisonous vapours of the mercury.

Reduced to despair, a century and a-half ago, they set fire to the

galleries, which, being then constructed of wood, were destroyed, and

mining operations put a stop to for many years. Only free labourers are

now employed, who are not allowed to work longer than six hours a-day.

Most of these, however, die between the ages of thirty and forty, and

those who exist longer are affected by palsy.

The quicksilver mines of Idria were discovered upwards of three

centuries ago by a peasant who had placed a tub under a spring issuing

from the mountain side. On attempting to move it, he found it

excessively heavy, and on examining the bottom he saw that it was partly

full of a heavy liquid, shining like silver. Ignorant of the value of

the substance, he had sense enough to take it to a goldsmith, without

mentioning the place where he had found it. In course of time, however,

a man named Anderlein, having bribed him, became master of the secret,

and with several others began to work the mine. In the next century the

Venetians drove out the Germans, but were finally compelled by the

Emperor Maximilian to give it up, and he restored it to its rightful

owners. The mine has since been worked by the State. Ingress to the

mine can be obtained by descending a convenient flight of steps, with

galleries running off here and there from landing-places, or by

descending in a few minutes through a perpendicular shaft in one of the

tubs by which the ore is raised. The galleries lead to the various

storeys of the mine, the lowest of which is 145 fathoms beneath the

surface. The vein itself descends to an unknown depth, and is

horizontal, but its extent has not yet been measured. The ores being

embedded in limestone of a loose nature, all the galleries had from the

first to be supported by wooden props. The wood has, on several

occasions caught fire, with disastrous results. Early in this century

the labourers observed a thick smoke issuing from the deepest part of

the mine. It rose higher and higher, spreading through the upper

galleries, yet no fire was to be seen, nor sound of flames heard.

Some of the workmen attempted to reach the scene of the fire, but were

driven back by the dense and suffocating smoke, impregnated with

vapours. Endeavours were made to smother the fire, but though the mine

remained closed for five weeks, no sooner was it re-opened than the fire

burst forth more furiously than at first. The howling of the flames

ascending from the lowest depths of the pit awed the spectators, and the

mercurial and sulphureous fumes arising from it threatened instant

destruction to all who might approach. The director of the mine, as a

last resource, came to the decision of flooding the works, and a river

turned into the shaft ran down it for two days and three nights. At

first no perceptible effect was produced, but on the second a terrific

explosion shook the mountain as if an earthquake had taken place. The

huts near the opening were blown to pieces, and even the stone houses on

the slopes of the hill, fell with tremendous crashes. Water, however,

gained the victory. Gradually the vapour dispersed, and after a few

weeks the workmen were able to descend into the pit. They found,

however, the galleries torn up, the vaulted roofs burst, and the stairs

destroyed. It took two years to pump out the water, which, it is said,

poisoned all the fish in the Idriza.

High pay being offered to any who would venture in to collect the

quicksilver, which had accumulated in considerable quantities, many,

tempted by the bribe, made their way into the workings, but overcome by

the mercurial vapours, several perished.

The galleries have now been formed of stone, seven feet high and six

feet broad, though some are still propped up with wood. They are of

immense extent, amounting to no less than fifty miles. As late as 1846

another fire occurred in the wooden galleries, which was quenched by

putting that part under water. The workmen labour in a tropical heat

and an atmosphere full of deadly vapours. It is no wonder that a

premature age overtakes many of them, and that young men are seen

trembling in every limb, though it is said that those who survive their

forty-fifth year may live on until they are sixty or seventy. To

transport mercury, the greatest care is required. It is first packed in

sacks of sheepskin, tanned with alum. The sack, being pressed and

punched to ascertain if it is sound, is enclosed in a second skin.

These are then placed in a small cask, and the cask again in a square

box. Notwithstanding these precautions, as the sacks sometimes burst,

the loss of the metal is great, and the mercury is now generally

transported in large iron bottles, the stoppers being screwed down by

means of a machine; in this condition, it is exported to England.

CHAPTER SEVEN.

STALACTITE AND ICE-CAVERNS.

Numberless and varied are the cavernous regions below the earth,

presenting the strangest and often awe-inspiring sights to the

spectator. In some rivers flow hundreds of feet beneath the green

fields and widespreading trees.

Through the caverns of Adolsberg, Planina, and Upper Laibach flows a

river known as the Poik, which then assumes other denominations,

according to its locality. In some places it forms cataracts, leaping

over the most picturesquely grouped rocks. In others it has forced a

passage amid them, and then flows gently on.

Our travellers resolved to undertake a voyage on the Poik, and embarked

in a boat, their progress being stream upwards through the celebrated

cave of Planina. They had to be cautious, for often the current ran

with great rapidity, and to keep a watchful eye for rocks which lay

hidden beneath the water.

Rowing on for about 600 feet from the entrance of the cavern, at the

end of a magnificent dome, they found that the river occupied the whole

space. To this part persons on foot could proceed, as the ground on

either side of the river was level. Now passing through a portal 48

feet high and about 24 broad, and as well proportioned as if cut out by

the hand of man, their ears were saluted by the thundering roar of a

distant cataract. As the archway widened, they suddenly emerged on a

lake 250 feet in length and 150 broad, beyond which the cave divided

into two arms, forming the channels of two streams, whose confluent

waters formed the lake.

The walls of the cavern on either side rose abruptly out of the water,

with the exception of one small landing-place at the foot of a

projecting ridge. Here and there hung masses of stalactite, resembling

a petrified cascade, the rest of the rock being black and naked. So

high was the vault that their torches could not pierce the gloom, the

impressiveness of which was increased by the roar of a waterfall heard

through the channel to the left.

Hitherto their progress had been easy, but they now resolved to proceed

up the left branch. They had frequently to get out of their boat, and

wading, drag her over the shallows. The voyage terminated at the end of

a small hall with a circular dome, the floor being a lake 180 feet in

length, and from 40 to 45 feet in depth. In the roof appeared a chasm,

sloping upwards through a small aperture, in which a violent current of

air set in, almost extinguishing their torches.

Beyond the mouth of the chasm another gallery opened out, into which the

persevering travellers penetrated. Nothing could surpass the beauty of

the spar crystals with which its walls were encrusted. At the entrance

stood a white figure, which might easily be supposed to be an angel,

guarding the entrance with a glittering sword, threatening all who

should venture with profane hands into his sanctuary.

Further on, projected in bold relief, was a colossal statue of a

monarch, sceptre in hand. As they proceeded they passed groups of

stalagmitic cones of all shapes and sizes. Some like the smallest

icicles, others rising six feet in height from the ground, as thick as a

human figure, the whole shining and glittering as the light of the

torches fell upon them, and standing out in bold relief against the dark

background formed by the brown wall of the cavern.

Returning to the central hall, they made their way up the eastern

branch, which is much larger than the one they had just visited, the

main stream flowing through it. As they pulled up, the increasing roar

of waters announced a large waterfall. They found that enormous masses

of stone, falling from the roof, had narrowed the bed of the river to

about fifteen feet, over which the water shot in a broad sheet, fully

ten feet in height. The effect as it rushed over the jet-black rocks,

casting up flakes of milky white foam, when illuminated by the torches,

was very beautiful.

Having hauled up the boat over the rugged mound, they again embarked,

encountering a couple of reefs. They then proceeded on between steep

walls with a free navigation, for upwards of four miles. In many places

the roof was adorned with draperies formed of snow-white stalactites,

but generally the black walls alone appeared. In some parts the roof

descended so low that they were compelled to lie down, and shove the

boat along by holding to the roof above their heads, until at length

they found that they could proceed no further.

Of the world beneath the surface some of the most beautiful scenes are

presented by the ice-caves of France and Switzerland. One of the most

curious is the glaciere "Grace Dieu," near Besancon. In the centre of

the cave rose three stalagmites of ice. The central mass was 66.5 feet

in circumference. Some distance above the ice-floor on the right was a

small fir-tree, which had been fixed in the ground, and had become

completely covered so that the tree itself had disappeared, its crystal

incrustation showing every elegance of variety in form. From each twig

of the different boughs, complicated groups of icicles streamed down.

The mass to the left, however, was the grandest and most beautiful. It

consisted of two vast heads, with several others of less height

resembling a group of lions' heads bending down, richly decked with icy

manes, huge masses measuring 76.5 feet in circumference. On looking at

this column from the side opposite the entrance to the cave, so that it

stood in the centre of the light pouring down in a long slope from the

outer world, the transparency of the ice made the whole appear as if it

were set in a frame of impalpable liquid blue, the effect of the light

penetrating through the mass at its extreme edges.

The Schafloch or Trou-aux-Moutons, a vast ice-cave on the Rothhorn, in

the canton of Berne, is equally beautiful and curious. It takes its

name from the fact that on the approach of a storm, the sheep and goats

fly to it for shelter, although never going as far in as the place where

the ice commences. The travellers entered the cave amid masses of loose

stone, with which in a short time the ice was found to intermingle until

it entirely hid the naked rock. They passed between two magnificent

columns of ice which formed the portal to the fairy cavern. The floor,

composed of ice, rose on either side to meet these columns in a graceful

swelling curve, so that it appeared as if their bases expanded and met

in the middle of the cave.

They had now to make their way amidst stalagmites rising from the floor,

met by stalactites descending from the roof. All the time as they

twisted in and out among the glittering pillars of ice, endeavouring to

do as little harm as possible, they were accompanied by an incessant

fall of small portions, shivering and glittering on reaching the ground.

Passing beyond the two columns, they saw before them a perfect sea of

ice, which became broader and broader until they reached the edge of a

magnificent ice-fall, smooth and unbroken, beyond which they were unable

to penetrate.

They afterwards visited another beautiful ice-cavern known as the

glacier of Saint Sivres, into which a stream flows, becoming completely

congealed.

There are many other ice-caverns in Bohemia, Hungary, the Hartz

Mountains, and in various parts of North America. One of them, however,

surpassing in size the others, is the cave of Yermalik, in the province

of Kondooz, in the centre of Asia. When Kondooz was invaded by the

savage warrior Genghis Khan, 700 men with their wives and children took

refuge in this cavern, and offered so brave a defence, that after

attempting in vain to destroy them by fire, the barbarous invader built

up the entrance with large blocks of stone, and left them to perish of

hunger.

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