PART III.

RUSSIAN EXPLORATIONS, 1725-1743.

VITUS BERING:

THE DISCOVERER OF BERING STRAIT.

BY

PETER LAURIDSEN,

MEMBER OF THE COUNCIL OF THE ROYAL DANISH GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY,

EDITOR OF JENS MUNK'S "NAVIGATIO SEPTENTRIONALIS."

REVISED BY THE AUTHOR, AND TRANSLATED FROM THE DANISH BY

JULIUS E. OLSON,

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OF SCANDINAVIAN LANGUAGES IN THE UNIVERSITY OF

WISCONSIN.

WITH AN INTRODUCTION TO THE AMERICAN EDITION BY

FREDERICK SCHWATKA,

MEDALLIST OF THE PARIS GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, AND OF THE IMPERIAL

GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF RUSSIA: HONORARY MEMBER OF THE BREMEN

GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, AND THE SWISS GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY OF GENEVA;

CORRESPONDING MEMBER OF THE ITALIAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.,

ETC.; AUTHOR OF "ALONG ALASKA'S GREAT RIVER," ETC., ETC.

CHICAGO:

S. C. GRIGGS & COMPANY,

1889.

COPYRIGHT, 1889,

BY S. C. GRIGGS AND COMPANY.

PRESS OF

KNIGHT & LEONARD CO.

CHICAGO.

CONTENTS.

LIEUT. SCHWATKA'S INTRODUCTION vii

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE xii

AUTHOR'S PREFACE xv

PART I.

BERING'S FIRST EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER I.

Russia and England in the work of Arctic exploration.--Vitus

Bering's rank as an explorer 3

CHAPTER II.

Bering's nativity.--Norwegians and Danes in the service of

Peter the Great.--Founding of the Russian navy 6

CHAPTER III.

Plans for Bering's First Expedition.--Peter the Great's desire to

know the extent of his empire.--The Northeast passage 12

CHAPTER IV.

Bering's knowledge of Siberian geography.--Terrors of traveling

in Siberia.--The expedition starts out.--The journey

from St. Petersburg to the Pacific 19

CHAPTER V.

The building of the Gabriel.--The discovery of Bering Strait 29

CHAPTER VI.

The task assigned by Peter the Great accomplished.--History of

the cartography of East Siberia.--Captain Cook's defense of

Bering 35

CHAPTER VII.

Bering's winter at the fort.--Indications of an adjacent

continent.--Unsuccessful search for this continent.--Return to

St. Petersburg.--General review of the results of the First

Expedition 50

PART II.

THE GREAT NORTHERN EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER VIII.

Bering's plans for a second expedition.--The greatest geographical

enterprise ever undertaken 61

CHAPTER IX.

The Great Northern Expedition on its way through Siberia.--Difficulties

and dangers encountered and overcome 77

CHAPTER X.

Delay of the expedition caused by the death of Lassenius and

his command in the Arctic regions.--Dissatisfaction of the

Senate and Admiralty with Bering's work 91

CHAPTER XI.

Final Preparations for the Pacific expeditions 99

PART III.

THE VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS.

CHAPTER XII.

The Arctic expeditions.--The Northeast passage.--Severe criticisms

on Nordenskjöld 107

CHAPTER XIII.

The discovery of the Kurile Islands and Japan from the north 117

CHAPTER XIV.

Preparations for Bering's voyage of discovery to America.--Founding

of Petropavlovsk.--The brothers De l'Isle 127

CHAPTER XV.

The discovery of America from the east.--Steller induced to

join the expedition.--The separation of the St. Peter and

the St. Paul 135

CHAPTER XVI.

Bering's place of landing on the American coast.--Captain

Cook's uncertainty.--The question discussed and definitely

settled 143

CHAPTER XVII.

Explorations along the American coast.--Steller's censure of

Bering for undue haste.--Bering defended.--Dall, the

American writer, reprimanded.--The return voyage 150

CHAPTER XVIII.

The discovery of the Aleutian Islands.--Terrible hardships of

the voyage.--Steller's fault-finding.--Bering confined to his

cabin.--Deaths on board from exhaustion and disease.--Bering

Island discovered.--A narrow escape 164

CHAPTER XIX.

The stay on Bering Island.--Fauna of the island.--A rich field

for Steller.--His descriptions immortalize the expedition.--The

sea-cow.--Its extermination.--Nordenskjöld refuted.--Preparations

for wintering.--Sad death of Bering.--An

estimate of his work.--Chirikoff's return.--The crew of the

St. Peter leave the Island.--The Great Northern Expedition

discontinued.--Bering's reports buried in Russian

archives.--Bering honored by Cook 174

APPENDIX.

BERING'S REPORT TO THE ADMIRALTY FROM OKHOTSK 195

NOTES 202

INDEX 217

MAPS.

INTRODUCTION TO AMERICAN EDITION.

A biography of the great Bering is of especial interest to American

readers desiring an accurate history of a country that has recently

come into our possession, and the adjoining regions where most of

the geographical investigations of the intrepid Danish-Russian

explorer were made. The thorough, concise, and patient work done by

Mr. Lauridsen is deserving of world-wide commendation, while the

translation into the language of our land by Professor Olson of the

University of Wisconsin puts students of American historical geography

under a debt for this labor of love rather than remuneration that

cannot be easily paid, and which is not common in our country. It is a

matter of no small national pride that the translation into the English

language of a work so near American geographical interests should have

been done by an American, rather than emanate from the Hakluyt Society

or other British sources, from which we usually derive such valuable

translations and compilations of old explorations and the doings of the

first explorers.

The general American opinion regarding Bering is probably somewhat

different from that on the continent which gave him birth and a patron

government to carry out his gigantic and immortal plans; or, better

speaking, it was different during the controversy in the past over the

value and authenticity of the great explorer's works, for European

opinion of Bering has slowly been more and more favorable to him, until

it has reached the maximum and complete vindication in the admirable

labors of Lauridsen, whose painstaking researches in the only archives

where authentic data of the doings of the daring Dane could be found,

has left no ground for those critics to stand upon, who have censured

Peter the Great's selection of an oriental explorer. In short, America

has always respected Bering as a great explorer, and oftentimes

heralded him as one of the highest of heroes, whatever may have been

the varying phases of European thought on the subject; and the reasons

therefor, I think, are two-fold. In the first place, the continent

which Bering first separated from the old world is yet a new country.

Since its discovery, not only exploration, but commercial exploration,

or pioneering as we call it, has been going on, and in this every one

has taken his part or mingled often with those who have. Presidents who

were pioneers, have been contemporaries with our times, while those who

have struggled on the selvage of civilization are numerous among us,

and their adventures as narrated in books are familiar stories to our

ears. Such a people, I believe, am much less liable to listen to the

labored logic of a critic against a man who carried his expedition six

thousand miles across a wilderness and launched it on the inhospitable

shores of an unknown sea, to solve a problem that has borne them fruit,

than others not similarly situated would be. While the invariable rule

has been that where the path-finder and critic--unless the critic

has been an explorer in the same field--have come in collision, the

latter has always gone to the wall, it is easy to see that with a jury

that have themselves lived amidst similar, though possibly slighter,

frontier fortunes, such a verdict is more readily reached.

The other reason, which is not so commendable, is that few Americans

at large have interested themselves in the discussion, or in fact knew

much about it. True, the criticisms on the Eastern continent have been

re-echoed on this side of the water, and even added to, but, they have

created no general impression worth recording as such in a book that

will undoubtedly have far wider circulation than the discussion has

ever had, unless I have misjudged the temper of the American people to

desire information on just such work as Bering has done, and which for

the first time is presented to them in anything like an authentic way

by Professor Olson's translation of Mr. Lauridsen's work. I do not wish

to be understood that we as a nation have been wholly indifferent to

Bering and the discussion of his claims. Far from it. It has rather

been that in invading the Bering world their disposition has led them

to view the solid ground on which he made his mark, rather than the

clouds hovering above, and which this work dissipates. It is rather of

that character of ignorance--if so strong a word is justifiable--that

is found here in the persistent misspelling of the great explorer's

name and the bodies of water which have transmitted it to posterity

so well, although the authority--really the absolute demand, if

correctness is desired--for the change from _Behring_ to _Bering_ has

been well known to exist for a number of years, and is now adopted in

even our best elementary geographies. While the animalish axiom that

"ignorance is bliss" is probably never true, there may be cases where

it is apparently fortunate, and this may be so in that Americans in

being seemingly apathetic have really escaped a discussion which after

all has ended in placing the man considered in about the same _status_

that they always assumed he had filled. One might argue that it would

have been better for Americans, therefore, if they had been presented

with a simple and authentic biography of the immortal Danish-Russian,

rather than with a book that is both a biography and a defense, but

Lauridsen's work after all is the best, I think all will agree, as no

biography of Bering could be complete without some account of that part

in which he had no making and no share, as well as that better part

which he chronicled with his own brain and brawn.

I doubt yet if Americans will take very much interest in the dispute

over Bering's simple claims in which he could take no part; but that

this book, which settles them so clearly, will be welcomed by the

reading classes of a nation that by acquisition in Alaska has brought

them so near the field of the labor of Bering, I think there need not

be the slightest fear. It is one of the most important links yet welded

by the wisdom of man which can be made into a chain of history for our

new acquisition whose history is yet so imperfect, and will remain so,

until Russian archives are placed in the hands of those they consider

fair-minded judges, as in the present work.

On still broader grounds, it is to be hoped that this work will meet

with American success, that it may be an entering wedge to that

valuable literature of geographical research and exploration, which

from incompatibility of language and other causes has never been fully

or even comprehensively opened to English speaking people. It has been

well said by one who has opportunities to fairly judge that "it has

been known by scientists for some time that more valuable investigation

was buried from sight in the Russian language than in any or all

others. Few can imagine what activity in geographical, statistical,

astronomical, and other research has gone on in the empire of the

Czar. It is predicted that within ten years more students will take up

the Russian language than those of other nations of Eastern Europe,

simply as a necessity. This youngest family of the Aryans is moving

westward with its ideas and literature, as well as its population

and empire. There are no better explorers and no better recorders of

investigations." It is undoubtedly a field in which Americans can reap

a rich reward of geographical investigation. There is an idea among

some, and even friends of Russia, that their travelers and explorers

have not done themselves justice in recording their doings, but this

in the broad sense is not true. Rather they have been poor chroniclers

for the public; but their official reports, hidden away in government

archives, are rich in their thorough investigations, oftentimes more

nearly perfect and complete than the equivalents in our own language,

where it takes no long argument to prove that great attention given to

the public and popular account, has been at the expense of the similar

qualities in the official report; while many expeditions, American

and British, have not been under official patronage at all, which has

seldom been the case with Russian research. As already noted, the bulk

of similar volumes from other languages and other archives into the

English has come from Great Britain; but probably from the unfortunate

bitter antagonism between the two countries which has created an apathy

in one and a suspicion in the other that they will not be judged in

an unprejudiced way, Russia has not got a fair share of what she has

really accomplished geographically translated into our tongue. It is

through America, an unprejudiced nation, that this could be remedied,

if a proper interest is shown, and which will probably be determined,

in a greater or less degree, by the reception of this book here,

although it comes to us in the roundabout way of the Danish language.

FREDERICK SCHWATKA.

TRANSLATOR'S PREFACE.

In placing before the American public this book on Vitus Bering, I

desire to express my cordial thanks to those who by word and deed have

assisted me. I am especially grateful to Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka,

who, in the midst of pressing literary labors consequent on his recent

explorations among the cave and cliff dwellers of the Sierra Madre

Mountains, has been so exceedingly kind as to write an introduction

to the American edition of this work. I feel confident that the

introductory words of this doughty explorer will secure for Bering that

consideration from the American people to which he is fairly entitled.

I find it a pleasant day to acknowledge my indebtedness to Dr. Leonhard

Stejneger of the Smithsonian Institution, who has sent me some valuable

and interesting notes to the chapter on "The Stay on Bering Island"

(Chapter XIX). Dr. Stejneger's notes are of especial interest, for in

the years 1882-'84 he spent eighteen months on Bering Island in the

service of the United States government, the object of his expedition

being to study the general natural history of the island, to collect

specimens of all kinds, but especially to search for remains of the

sea-cow. He wished also to identify the places mentioned by Steller,

the famous naturalist of the Bering expedition, in order to compare

his description with the localities as they present themselves to-day,

and to visit the places where Bering's vessel was wrecked, where the

ill-fated expedition wintered, and where Steller made his observations

on the sea-cow. The results of Dr. Stejneger's investigations have been

published in "Proceedings of the United States National Museum" and in

various American and European scientific journals.

I am also under obligation to Prof. Rasmus B. Anderson, Ex-United

States Minister to Denmark, through whom I have been enabled to make

this an authorized edition, and to Reuben G. Thwaites, Secretary of the

Wisconsin State Historical Society, and Frederick J. Turner, Assistant

Professor of American History in the University of Wisconsin, for

valuable criticism and suggestions.

In regard to the orthography of Russian and Siberian names, I wish

to say that I have endeavored to follow American writers that

advocate a rational simplification. W. H. Dall, author of "Alaska

and its Resources," says on this point: "From ignorance of the true

phonetic value of the Russian compound consonants, and from literal

transcription, instead of phonetic translation, of the German rendering

of Russian and native names, much confusion has arisen. Many writers

persistently represent the third letter of the Russian alphabet by _w_,

writing Romanow instead of Romanoff, etc. The twenty-fifth letter is

also frequently rendered _tsch_ instead of _ch_ soft, as in church,

which fully represents it in English. It is as gross an error to spell

_Kamchatka_ for instance, _Kamtschatka_, as it would be for a foreigner

to represent the English word _church_ by _tschurtsch_, and so on."

From this it would seem that the Germanized forms of these names are

incorrect, as well as needlessly forbidding in appearance. It is,

moreover, due to German writers that Bering's name has been burdened

with a superfluous letter. Facsimiles of his autograph, one of which

may be seen by referring to Map I. in the Appendix, prove incontestably

that he spelled his name without an _h_.

Although Mr. Lauridsen's book is essentially a defense of Vitus Bering,

written especially for the student of history and historical geography,

it nevertheless contains several chapters of thrilling interest to the

general reader. The closing chapters, for instance, give, not only a

reliable account of the results of Bering's voyage of discovery in

the North Pacific, and valuable scientific information concerning the

remarkable animal life on Bering Island, where, before Bering's frail

ship was dashed upon its shores, no human foot had trod, but they also

portray in vivid colors the tragic events that brought this greatest of

geographical enterprises to a close.

The regions to which Bering's last labors gave Russia the first title

are at the present time the object of much newspaper comment. His last

expedition, the few survivors of which brought home costly skins that

evinced the great wealth of the newly discovered lands, opened up to

the Russian fur-hunter an El Dorado that still continues to be a most

profitable field of pursuit, now vigilantly watched by the jealous eyes

of rival nations.

JULIUS E. OLSON.

MADISON, WIS.

AUTHOR'S PREFACE.

Through the patronage of the Hielmstierne-Rosencrone Institution,

obtained in the summer of 1883, I was enabled to spend some time

among the archives and libraries in St. Petersburg, to prepare myself

for undertaking this work on Vitus Bering. I very soon, however,

encountered obstacles which unassisted I should not have been able

to surmount; for, contrary to my expectations, all the original

manuscripts and archives pertaining to the history of Bering were

written in Russian, and the latter in such difficult language that none

but native palæographers could read them.

I should for this reason have been compelled to return without having

accomplished anything, had I not in two gentlemen, Admiral Th. Wessalgo

and Mr. August Thornam of the telegraph department, found all the

assistance that I needed. The Admiral is director of the department

of hydrography, and has charge of the magnificent archives of the

Admiralty. He is very familiar with the history of the Russian fleet,

and he gave me, not only excellent and exhaustive bibliographical

information, besides putting at my disposal the library of the

department, but also had made for me copies of various things that were

not easily accessible. He has, moreover, since my return been unwearied

in furnishing me such information from the Russian archives as I have

desired. For all of this kindness, enhanced by the Admiral's flattering

remarks about Denmark and the Danes, I find it a pleasant duty to

express my warmest thanks. To Mr. Thornam I am no less indebted.

Notwithstanding his laborious duties in the central telegraph office of

St. Petersburg, he found it possible week after week, often eight or

ten hours out of the twenty-four, to assist me in translating the vast

materials.

Besides this, I derived much benefit from his comprehensive knowledge

of Siberia, obtained on travels in the same regions where Bering had

been. He has had the kindness to examine the collection of charts and

maps in both the Admiralty and Imperial libraries, and secure for me

some valuable copies. He has also, at my request, examined a series of

articles in periodicals containing notices of Bering's geographical

enterprise.

It is only by means of this valuable assistance that I have succeeded

in basing this biographical sketch on Russian literature, and putting

it, as I hope, on a par with what has been written on this subject by

Russian authors.

Of the many others that in one way or another have seconded

my efforts in giving as valuable a biography of my renowned

fellow-countryman as possible, I owe special thanks--not to mention

the Hielmstierne-Rosencrone Institution--to Mr. Hegel, the veteran

publisher, Col. Hoskier, Dr. Karl Verner, instructor in Sclavonic

languages at the University of Copenhagen, who has examined some very

difficult archival matter for me, Professor Alexander Vasilievich

Grigorieff, Secretary of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society,

and to Mr. E. W. Dahlgren, Secretary of the Swedish Society for

Anthropology and Geography. P. L.

PART I.

BERING'S FIRST EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER I.

RUSSIA AND ENGLAND IN THE WORK OF ARCTIC EXPLORATION.--VITUS BERING'S

RANK AS AN EXPLORER.

In the great work of Arctic exploration done during the last two

centuries, it was first Russia and later England that took the lead,

and to these two nations we are principally indebted for our knowledge

of Arctic continental coast-lines. The English expeditions were

undertaken with better support, and under circumstances better designed

to attract public attention. They have, moreover, been excellently

described, and are consequently well known. But in the greatness

of the tasks undertaken, in the perseverance of their leaders, in

difficulties, dangers, and tragic fates, Russian explorations stand

worthily at their side. The geographical position of the Russians,

their dispersion throughout the coldest regions of the earth, their

frugal habits, remarkable power of foresight, and their adventurous

spirit, make them especially fitted for Arctic explorations. Hence, as

early as the first half of the eighteenth century, they accomplished

for Asia what the English not until a hundred years later succeeded in

doing for the other side of the earth,--namely, the charting of the

polar coasts.

In this work the Russians introduced the system of coasting and

sledging into the service of Arctic expeditions, and it is only

through a systematic development of these means that western Europe has

been enabled to celebrate its most brilliant triumphs in the Arctic

regions, and to succeed in getting farther than did the navigators of

the seventeenth century. The history of Russian polar explorations has

a series of proud names, which lack only the pen of a Sherard Osborn

to shine by the side of Franklin and McClure, and it redounds to the

honor of Denmark that one of the first and greatest of these men was

a Dane,--that the most brilliant chapter in the history of Russian

explorations is due to the initiative and indefatigable energy of Vitus

Bering. In the service of Peter the Great he successfully doubled the

northeastern peninsula of Asia, and after his return he made a plan for

the exploration of the whole Northeast passage from the White Sea to

Japan. Although he succumbed in this undertaking, he lived long enough

to see his gigantic plans approach realization.

Bering was buried on an island in the Pacific, amid the scenes of his

labors, under that sand-barrow which had been his death-bed. For many

generations only a plain wooden cross marked his resting-place, and

as for his fame, it has been as humble and modest as his head-board.

His labors belonged to a strange people who had but little sympathy

for the man. His own countrymen, among whom he might have found this

sympathetic interest, knew his work but very imperfectly. Not until

after the lapse of a century did he find a careful biographer, and even

within comparatively recent years the great scientist Von Baer has

found it necessary to defend him against misunderstandings and petty

attacks.

Danish literature contains nothing of moment concerning him, for the

two treatises which several generations ago were published by M.

Hallager and Odin Wolff, are merely scanty extracts from G. F. Müller's

historical works. In the following pages, therefore, relying not only

upon Russian, but also upon West European literature for information,

we desire to erect to him a monument by giving a short account of his

life and work, sketching at the same time a chapter of geographical

history which is lacking neither in importance nor in interest.

CHAPTER II.

BERING'S NATIVITY.--NORWEGIANS AND DANES IN THE SERVICE OF PETER THE

GREAT.--FOUNDING OF THE RUSSIAN NAVY.

Vitus Bering was a son of Jonas Svendsen and his second wife, Anna

Bering of Horsens, at which place he was born in the summer of 1681. On

the maternal side he descended from the distinguished Bering family,

which during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries flourished in

various parts of Denmark, and included a very respectable number of

ministers and judicial officers.[1]

Our hero passed his childhood in a Christian family of culture in the

Jutland seaport town of his birth. Here for a series of years his

father filled several positions of trust, and was closely associated

with the leading men of the place, as his wife's sister, Margaret

Bering, had married two consecutive mayors. He was, however, far from

being considered well-to-do. He had many children. One of his sons

had caused him much trouble and expense, and was finally sent to the

East Indies. In the probate record of his estate, made in 1719, there

is a deed of conveyance from himself and wife in which the following

appears: "We are old, miserable, and decrepit people, in no way able

to help ourselves. Our property consists of the old dilapidated home

and the furniture thereto belonging, which is of but little value." It

was his share of this inheritance, with accrued interest, all amounting

to 140 _rigsdaler_, that Vitus Bering later presented to his native

town to be used for the benefit of the poor.

From inclination, and forced by the circumstances of his humble home,

Bering went to sea, and on the long expeditions that he made, he

developed into an able seaman. From an East India expedition in 1703 he

came to Amsterdam, where he made the acquaintance of Admiral Cruys, a

native of Norway. Soon afterwards, at the age of twenty-two, he joined

a Russian fleet as a sub-lieutenant. What Norwegian and Danish seamen

accomplished at this period in the service of Russia, has been almost

entirely forgotten. In the company of intelligent foreigners that Czar

Peter employed for the transformation of his kingdom, the Danish-Norse

contingent occupies a prominent place. This is due principally to

Peter himself, and was a result of his experiences in Holland. After

having, on his first extensive foreign trip, learned the art of

ship-building,--not in Zaandam, as it is usually stated, but at the

docks of the East India Company in Amsterdam,--he was much dissatisfied

with the empirical method which the Hollanders used, and he wrote to

Voronetz, his own ship-yard, that the Dutch ship-builders there should

no longer be permitted to work independently, but be placed under the

supervision of Danes or Englishmen.

Peter retained his high regard for Danish-Norse ship-building during

his whole life, and it was on this account that Danes and Norwegians

were enabled to exert so great an influence in St. Petersburg. This is

the reason, too, that Danish-Norse[2] seamen were received so kindly in

Russia even long after the death of the great Czar.

Next to Peter, Norwegians and Danes had the greatest share in the

founding of the Russian fleet, and among them the place of honor

belongs to the Norseman Cornelius Cruys, who in 1697 was assistant

master of ordnance in the Dutch navy, where he was held in high

regard as a ship-builder, a cartographer, and as a man well versed in

everything pertaining to the equipment of a fleet. Peter made him his

vice-admiral, and assigned to him the technical control of the fleet,

the building of new vessels, their equipment, and, above all, the task

of supplying them with West European officers.

Weber assigns Cruys a place in the first rank among those foreigners to

whom Russia owes much of her development, and remarks that it was he,

"the incomparable master of ordnance, who put the Russian fleet upon

its keel and upon the sea." He belonged to the fashionable circles of

St. Petersburg, owned a large and beautiful palace on the Neva, where

now tower the Winter Palace and the Hermitage, and was one of the few

among the wealthy that enjoyed the privilege of entertaining the Czar

on festive occasions. He became vice-president of the council of the

Admiralty, was promoted, after the peace of Nystad, to the position of

admiral of the Blue Flag, and made a knight of the order of Alexander

Nevsky.

In Peter the Great's remarkable house in St. Petersburg there is

preserved, among many other relics, a yawl which is called the

grandfather of the fleet. With this, Peter had begun his nautical

experiments, and in 1723, when he celebrated the founding of his fleet,

he rowed down the Neva in it. Peter himself was at the rudder, Apraxin

was cockswain, and Admiral Cruys, Vice-Admiral Gordon, Sievers and

Menshikoff were at the oars. On this occasion the Czar embraced Cruys

and called him his father.

During his whole life Cruys preserved a warm affection for his native

land; hence it was natural that the Scandinavian colony in St.

Petersburg gathered about him. His successor as vice-president of the

council of the Admiralty, and as master of ordnance, was the former

Danish naval lieutenant Peter Sievers, who likewise elevated himself

to most important positions, and exerted a highly beneficial influence

upon the development of the Russian fleet. At the side of these two

heroes, moreover, there were others, as Admirals Daniel Wilster and

Peter Bredal, Commander Thure Trane, and also Skeving, Herzenberg,

Peder Grib, "Tordenskjold's[3] brave comrade in arms," and many others.

For a long time Vitus Bering was one of Cruys's most intimate

associates, and these two, with Admiral Sievers, form an honorable trio

in that foreign navy. Bering was soon appointed to a position in the

Baltic fleet, and during Russia's protracted struggles, his energy

found that scope which he before had sought on the ocean, and at the

same time he had the satisfaction of fighting the foes of his native

land. He was a bold and able commander. During the whole war he cruised

about in the Sea of Azov and the Black Sea, and in the Baltic and other

northern waters. Some of the most important transport expeditions

were entrusted to him. The Czar prized his services very highly, and

when, after the misfortune at Pruth in 1711, he laid a plan to rescue

three of the best ships of his Black Sea fleet by a bold run through

the Bosporus, Vitus Bering, Peder Bredal, and Simon Skop were chosen

for the task. Whether the plan was carried out, it is difficult to

determine. Berch says that it was not, and adds, "I cite the incident

simply to show that even at that time Bering was looked upon as an

excellent commander." In various West European authorities, however,

it is distinctly stated that Sievers conducted the ships to England,

and in a review of Bering's life published by the Admiralty in 1882, it

is stated that Bering was in 1711 appointed to conduct the ship Munker

from the Sea of Azov to the Baltic, and as the Admiralty would hardly

in a condensed report have taken notice of plans which had never been

carried out, it seems most probable that Berch has been incorrectly

informed.

In 1707 Bering was promoted to the position of lieutenant, in 1710

to that of lieutenant-captain, and in 1715 to that of captain of

the fourth rank, when he assumed command of the new ship Selafail

in Archangel to sail it to Copenhagen and Kronstadt. In 1716 he

participated in an expedition of the united fleets to Bornholm under

the command of Sievers. In 1717 he was made captain of the third, and

in 1720 of the second rank, and took part, until peace was concluded,

in the various manoeuvers in the Baltic under the command of Gordon and

Apraxin.[4]

After the peace of Nystad in 1721, however, his position became

somewhat unpleasant. Although he was a brother-in-law of Vice-Admiral

Saunders, he had, according to Berch, powerful enemies in the

Admiralty. The numerous promotions made after the conclusion of peace,

in no way applied to him. In the following year younger comrades

were advanced beyond him, and hence in 1724 he demanded promotion to

a captaincy of the first rank, or his discharge. After protracted

negotiations, and in spite of the fact that Apraxin repeatedly refused

to sign his discharge, he finally obtained it, and then withdrew to his

home in Viborg, Finland, where he owned an estate, and where, no doubt

on account of the Scandinavian character of the city, he preferred

to stay. During the negotiations for his discharge, the Czar was in

Olonetz, but some time afterwards he informed Apraxin that Bering was

again to enter the navy, and with the desired promotion. This occurred

in August, 1724, and a few months later Bering was appointed chief of

the _First Kamchatkan Expedition_, the object of which was to determine

whether Asia and America were connected by land.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Some details of Bering's genealogy, which can be of no interest to

the American reader, the translator has taken the liberty to omit.

[2] Norway and Denmark were at this time united.--TR.

[3] Peter Tordenskjold (1691-1720), a Norwegian in the Danish Norse

service,--the greatest naval hero Scandinavia has ever produced.--TR.

[4] See Appendix, Note 1.

CHAPTER III.

PLANS FOR BERING'S FIRST EXPEDITION.--PETER THE GREAT'S DESIRE TO

KNOW THE EXTENT OF HIS EMPIRE.--THE NORTHEAST PASSAGE.

The equipment of Bering's first expedition was one of Peter the Great's

last administrative acts. From his death-bed his energy set in motion

those forces which in the generation succeeding him were to conquer a

new world for human knowledge. It was not until his mighty spirit was

about to depart this world that the work was begun, but the impetus

given by him was destined to be effective for half a century; and the

results achieved still excite our admiration.

Peter was incited to undertake this work by a desire for booty, by a

keen, somewhat barbaric curiosity, and by a just desire to know the

natural boundaries of his dominion. He was no doubt less influenced

by the flattery of the French Academy and other institutions than

is generally supposed. His great enterprise suddenly brought Russia

into the front rank of those nations which at that time were doing

geographical exploration. Just before his death three great enterprises

were planned: the establishment of a mart at the mouth of the river Kur

for the oriental trade, the building up of a maritime trade with India,

and an expedition to search for the boundary between Asia and America.

The first two projects did not survive the Czar, but Bering clung to

the plan proposed for him, and accomplished his task.

Peter the Great gave no heed to obstacles, and never weighed the

possibilities for the success of an enterprise. Consequently his

plans were on a grand scale, but the means set aside for carrying

them out were often entirely inadequate, and sometimes even wholly

inapplicable. His instructions were usually imperious and laconic.

To his commander-in-chief in Astrakhan he once wrote: "When fifteen

boats arrive from Kazan, you will sail them to Baku and sack the

town." His instructions to Bering are characteristic of his condensed

and irregular style. They were written by himself, in December, 1724,

five weeks before his death, and are substantially as follows: "I. At

Kamchatka or somewhere else two decked boats are to be built. II. With

these you are to sail northward along the coast, and as the end of the

coast is not known this land is undoubtedly America. III. For this

reason you are to inquire where the American coast begins, and go to

some European colony; and when European ships are seen you are to ask

what the coast is called, note it down, make a landing, obtain reliable

information, and then, after having charted the coast, return."

After West Europe for two centuries had wearied itself with the

question of a Northeast passage and made strenuous efforts to navigate

the famed Strait of Anian, Russia undertook the task in a practical

manner and went in search of the strait, before it started out on a

voyage around the northern part of the old world.

Were Asia and America connected, or was there a strait between the two

countries? Was there a Northwest and a Northeast passage? It was these

great and interesting questions that were to be settled by Bering's

first expedition. Peter himself had no faith in a strait. He had,

however, no means of knowing anything about it, for at his death the

east coast of Asia was known only as far as the island of Yezo. The

Pacific coast of America had been explored and charted no farther than

Cape Blanco, 43° north latitude, while all of the northern portion

of the Pacific, its eastern and western coast-lines, its northern

termination, and its relation to the polar sea, still awaited its

discoverer.

The above-mentioned ukase shows that the Czar's inquisitive mind was

dwelling on the possibility of being able, through northeastern Asia,

to open a way to the rich European colonies in Central America. He

knew neither the enormous extent of the far East nor the vastness

of the ocean that separated it from the Spanish colonies. Yet even

at that time, various representatives of the great empire living in

northeastern Siberia had some knowledge of the relative situation of

the two continents and could have given Bering's expedition valuable

directions.

Rumors of the proximity of the American continent to the northeastern

corner of Asia must very early have been transmitted through Siberia,

for the geographers of the sixteenth century have the relative position

of the two continents approximately correct. Thus on the Barents map

of 1598, republished by J. J. Pontanus in 1611, a large continent

towers above northeastern Asia with the superscription, "America Pars,"

the two countries being separated by the Strait of Anian[5] (Fretum

Anian). On a map by Joducus Hondius, who died in 1611, East Siberia is

drawn as a parallelogram projecting toward the northeast, and directly

opposite and quite near the northeast corner of this figure a country

is represented with the same superscription. This is found again in the

map by Gerhard Mercator which accompanies Nicolai Witsen's "_Noord en

Ost Tartarye_," 1705, and in several other sixteenth century atlases.

It is quite impossible to determine how much of this apparent knowledge

is due to vague reports combined with happy guessing, and how much to a

practical desire for such a passage on the part of European navigators,

whose expensive polar expeditions otherwise would be folly. This much

is certain, however: Witsen and other leading geographers based their

views on information received from Siberia and Russia.[6]

In the history of discoveries the spirit of human enterprise has fought

its way through an incalculable number of mirages. These have aroused

the imagination, caused agitations, debates, and discussions, but have

usually veiled an earlier period's knowledge of the question. There

are many re-discovered countries on our globe. So in this case. The

northwestern part of America wholly disappeared from the cartography

of the seventeenth century, and through the influence of Witsen's

and Homann's later maps it became customary to represent the eastern

coast of Asia by a meridian passing a little east of Yakutsk, without

any suggestions whatever in regard to its strongly marked peninsulas

or to an adjacent western continent. But even these representations

were originally Russian, and are undoubtedly due to the first original

Russian atlas, published by Remesoff. They finally gave way to the

geographical explorations of the eighteenth century, which began

shortly after the accession of Peter the Great, having been provoked by

political events and conditions.

By the treaty of Nertchinsk in 1689 the Yablonoi Mountains were

established as the boundary line between Russia and China. By this

means the way to the fertile lands of Amoor was barred to that indurate

caste of Russian hussars and Cossacks who had conquered for the

White Czar the vast tracts of Siberia. A second time they fell upon

northeastern Siberia, pressing their way, as before, across uninhabited

tundras along the northern ocean, and thence conquered the inhabited

districts toward the south. They discovered the island of Liakhov,

penetrated the country of the Chukchees, Koriaks, and Kamshadales,

and at the Anadyr River, in Deshneff's old palisaded fort, they found

that point of support from which they maintained Russia's power in the

extreme northeast. In this way the Russians learned the enormous extent

of the country; but as they had no exact locations, they formed a very

incorrect opinion of its outlines, and estimated its length from west

to east too small by forty degrees.

From the fort on the Anadyr, Kamchatka was conquered in the first years

of the eighteenth century, and from here came the first information

concerning America. In 1711 the Cossack Popoff visited the Chukchee

peninsula, and here he heard that from either side of the peninsula,

both from the "Kolymaic" Sea and the Gulf of Anadyr, an island could be

seen in the distance, which the Chukchees called "the great land." This

land they said they could reach in _baidars_ (boats rowed by women) in

one day. Here were found large forests of pine, cedar, and other trees,

and also many different kinds of animals not found in their country.

This reliable information concerning America seems at the time to have

been known in other parts of Siberia only in the way of vague reports,

and was soon confused with descriptions of islands in the Arctic.

Czar Peter, however, soon laid his adjusting hand upon these groping

efforts. By the aid of Swedish prisoners of war, he opened the

navigation from Okhotsk to Kamchatka, and thus avoided the circuitous

route by way of the Anadyr. A Cossack by the name of Ivan Kosyrefski

(the son of a Polish officer in Russian captivity) was ordered to

explore the peninsula to its southern extremity, and also some of

the Kurile Islands. In 1719 he officially despatched the surveyors

Yevrinoff and Lushin to ascertain whether Asia and America were

connected, but secretly he instructed them to go to the Kurile

Islands to search for precious metals, especially a white mineral

which the Japanese were said to obtain in large quantities from the

fifth or sixth island. Through these various expeditions there was

collected vast, although unscientific, materials for the more correct

understanding of the geography of eastern Asia, the Sea of Okhotsk,

Kamchatka, the Kuriles, and Yezo. Even concerning the Island of

Nipon (Hondo), shipwrecked Japanese had given valuable information.

Simultaneously, the northern coast about the mouth of the Kolyma, had

been explored by the Cossacks Viligin and Amossoff. Through them the

first information concerning the Bear Islands and Wrangell Island found

its way to Yakutsk. The Cossack chief Shestakoff, who had traveled

into the northeastern regions toward the land of the Chukchees,

accepted the accounts of the former for his map, but as he could

neither read nor write, matters were most bewilderingly confused. Yet

his representations were later accepted by Strahlenberg and Joseph de

l'Isle in their maps.

FOOTNOTES:

[5] In Baron A. E. Nordenskjöld's review of the Danish edition of this

work on Bering in the _Journal of the American Geographical Society_,

Vol. XVII., p. 290, he says: "In Barents' map of 1598 there is not, as

Mr. Lauridsen seems to suppose, anything original as to the delineation

of the northern coast of Asia and the relative situation of Asia and

America. In this respect Barents' map is only a reproduction of older

maps, which, with regard to the delineation of the northern coast of

Asia, are based upon pre-Columbian suppositions; and these again rest

upon the story told by Pliny the Elder in the 'Historia Naturalis,'

L. VII., 13, 17, about the northern limit of the world known to him,"

etc. The judicious reader can not fail to see that the renowned author

here shoots far beyond the mark, for Pliny the Elder can hardly be

supposed to have had any knowledge of "America Pars."--_Author's Note

to American Edition._

[6] Note 2.

CHAPTER IV.

BERING'S KNOWLEDGE OF SIBERIAN GEOGRAPHY.--TERRORS OF TRAVELING

IN SIBERIA.--THE EXPEDITION STARTS OUT.--THE JOURNEY FROM ST.

PETERSBURG TO THE PACIFIC.

And now the question is, what did Bering know of these efforts which

had been made during the decades preceding his expedition, and which

in spite of their unscientific character, were nevertheless of such

great importance in order to be able to initiate one's self in the

geography of eastern Asia? In the first place, the surveyor Lushin,

was a member of the Bering expedition, and when Bering, in the summer

of 1726, was sojourning in Yakutsk, Shestakoff's nephew, who had

accompanied his uncle on his expedition against the Chukchees, became

an attaché of Bering's expedition, while the elder Shestakoff had gone

to Russia to collect means for the contemplated military expedition.

Furthermore, Ivan Kosyrefski, who in the meantime had become a monk,

was also staying in Yakutsk, and his valuable report preserved in the

voivode's (governor's) office was now surrendered to Bering. Thus we

see that Bering was in personal contact with the men, who, in the

decade preceding, were the chief possessors of geographical knowledge

concerning those northeastern regions.

In the second place, he received in Yakutsk information concerning

Deshneff's journey in 1648 from the Kolyma to the Anadyr River.

Although this journey was first critically discussed by G. F.

Müller,[7] its main features were nevertheless well known in Siberia,

and are referred to, among other places, in Strahlenberg's book, whence

the results appear in Bellini's map in Peter Charlesvoix's "_Histoire

du Japan_," published in 1735. Unfortunately, however, Bering seems to

have had no knowledge of Popoff's expedition to the Chukchees peninsula

and his information concerning the adjacent American continent, or of

Strahlenberg's outline maps, which were not published until after his

departure from St. Petersburg.

Bering's two expeditions are unique in the history of Arctic

explorations. His real starting point was on the extremest outskirts

of the earth, where only the hunter and yassak-collector had preceded

him. Kamchatka was at that time just as wild a region as Boothia or the

coasts of Smith's Sound are in our day, and, practically viewed, it

was far more distant from St. Petersburg than any known point now is

from us. One hundred and thirty degrees--several thousand miles--the

earth's most inhospitable tracts, the coldest regions on the globe,

mountains, endless steppes, impenetrable forests, morasses, and

fields of trackless snow were still between him and the mouth of the

Kamchatka River, and thither he was to lead, not a small expedition,

but an enormous provision train and large quantities of material for

ship-building. On the journey, river-boats had to be built by the

score, and also two ships. Now his course was up the swift streams of

Siberia, and now on horseback or in sledges drawn by dogs through the

dreary and desolate forests of the Yakuts and Tunguses. He employed

several hundred laborers and twice as many horses to do work which

modern ships can accomplish in a few weeks. Franklin, Mackenzie,

Schwatka, and many others have traversed vast tracts of the Arctic

regions, but their expeditions in light sledges can not be compared

with those burdensome transports which Bering and his men dragged from

the Gulf of Finland to the shores of the Pacific.

In the early part of the year 1725 the expedition was ready to start

out from St. Petersburg. The officers were the two Danes, Vitus

Bering, captain and chief, and Martin Spangberg, lieutenant and second

in command, and also the following: Lieut. Alexei Chirikoff, Second

Lieut. Peter Chaplin, the cartographers Luskin and Patiloff, the mates,

Richard Engel and George Morison, Dr. Niemann, and Rev. Ilarion.[8]

The subordinates were principally sailors, carpenters, sailmakers,

blacksmiths, and other mechanics.

Peter the Great died Jan. 28, 1725;[9] but a part of the expedition

under the command of Lieut. Chirikoff had already started on the 24th;

Bering followed Feb. 5. They passed the whole of the first summer in

toilsome expeditions overland and on rivers in western Siberia. March

16, they arrived at Tobolsk, whence, in May, the journey was continued

with four rafts and seven boats by way of the rivers Irtish, Obi, Ket,

Yenisei, Tunguska, and Ilim, through regions where there was scarcely

a Russian _isba_, on rivers which were dangerous on account of hidden

rocks and skerries, and where progress was constantly interrupted by

the transporting that had to be done between the streams. September 29,

the expedition arrived at the town of Ilimsk and had to pass the winter

there. Meanwhile, however, Lieut. Chaplin had, in the spring, been

sent in advance to Yakutsk, in order, at the voivode's (governor's) to

hasten the preparations for transportation in the direction of Okhotsk,

whither he was to send a small command who were to fell trees and

begin the work of ship-building. Bering[10] himself went to Irkutsk to

obtain from the governor there information concerning the climate and

physical features of Eastern Siberia, the modes of travel, and means

of transportation in that distant and little known country. Spangberg

was sent with mechanics and soldiers to the Kut, a tributary of the

Lena, for the purpose of cutting timber and building vessels for the

voyages to be made in the spring. At Ustkutsk there were built in all

fifteen barges (about 45 feet long, 12 feet wide and 15 inches deep)

and fourteen boats. On May 8, 1726, Spangberg sailed for Yakutsk, and

somewhat later Chirikoff started off with the rear. By the middle of

June, the expedition was gathered at the capital of East Siberia, which

at that time had three hundred houses. Here Bering remained until

the 16th of August, busily engaged in making preparations for the

difficult journey eastward. He had made two thousand leathern sacks for

transporting flour to Okhotsk, and gave the voivode orders to keep

in readiness six hundred horses to forward other necessaries for the

expedition.

From this point the expedition traveled an entirely untrodden path,

and the 1026 versts (685 miles) to Okhotsk were a severe test of

its endurance. Even in our day, this journey can be made only under

the greatest difficulties. The region is rough and mountainous, and

intersected by deep streams without bridges or other means of crossing.

The traveler must traverse dangerous swamps and tundras, or cut his

way through dense forests. In the winter the difficulties are doubled.

Horses, reindeer, and dogs soon become exhausted on these unbroken

roads. A space cleared in the snow, when the cooking, eating, and

sleeping are done, is the only shelter. The temperature falls to -46°

R. (-71° Fahrenheit). Clothing must be changed daily to avoid dampness,

and when the _poorgas_ (blizzards) sweep over the snowy wastes, a few

steps from camp are often fatal. This is a description of that region

in our day, and it was hardly any more inviting over a hundred and

fifty years ago.

It was found necessary to divide the expedition. The branching

tributaries of the Lena offered possibilities for transportation

which had to be taken advantage of. Hence, as early as July 7, Lieut.

Spangberg was sent by river with thirteen rafts loaded with materials,

and a force of 204 workmen to reach Yudomskaya Krest by way of the

tributaries Aldan, Maya, and Yudoma, and thence across a ridge down

to the river Urak, which flows into the Sea of Okhotsk. The overland

expeditions, consisting of 800 horses, were sent in various directions.

Bering himself started out on August 16, with 200 horses, and after a

journey of forty-five days, reached Okhotsk. The journey was a very

difficult one. The horses sought in vain for food under the deep snow.

Scores of them were overcome by hunger and exhaustion. The severe cold

caused the forces much suffering and hardship, nor did they find but

few comforts when they reached Okhotsk in the latter part of October.

The town consisted of only eleven huts, with ten Russian families, who

supported themselves by fishing. Here, too, many of the horses died

for lack of food, and a herd of heifers sent there by Shestakoff was

lost from the same cause. Only one survived the winter. It was now

necessary to build huts for the winter. The whole of November was spent

in felling trees, and not until December 2, could Bering take shelter

under a roof of his own. On the other hand, the ship for the expedition

was on the stocks, and in spite of all troubles and privations, Bering

found time to push forward vigorously its construction.

Spangberg, however, fared worst of all. Winter took him by surprise

two hundred and seventy-five miles from Yudomskaya Krest, the nearest

inhabited place, in an entirely barren and swampy region where he could

not obtain the slightest assistance. His boats and the bulk of their

provisions had to be left at the confluence of the Yorbovaya and the

Yudoma, while he and his men, with what provisions they could take with

them on the hand-sleds, started out for Okhotsk on foot. Meanwhile,

the severity of the winter increased, the mercury congealed, and the

snow was soon six feet deep. This forced them to leave their sleds, and

for eight full weeks after November 4, these travelers sought shelter

every night in the snows of Siberia, wrapped in all the furs they could

possibly get hold of. Their provisions were soon exhausted, famine

soon became a companion to cold, and matters even came to such a pass

that they were compelled to try to maintain life by gnawing "straps,

leathern bags, and shoes." They would surely have starved to death, had

they not accidentally happened to strike Bering's route, where they

found dead horses and a few hundred-weights of flour. December 21,

Bering received from Spangberg a message, relating that he had started

for Yudomskaya Krest with ninety-six sledges, and that he had left the

boats in charge of a mate and six guards. Bering immediately dispatched

ten sledges with provisions for his relief, and on the succeeding day,

thirty-seven sledges with thirty-nine men. January 6, 1727, Spangberg

reached Okhotsk, and a few days later his whole command had arrived,

eighteen of whom were now sick. Twice during the course of the winter,

Spangberg and Chaplin were obliged to repeat this journey to rescue the

materials at the Yudoma. Not until midsummer, 1727, did the rear under

the command of Chirikoff arrive from Yakutsk.

And yet Bering was far from the place where his work of discovery

could begin. On June 8, the new ship Fortuna was launched and equipped

for the prospective voyage. Moreover, the ship that had been used

in exploring the Sea of Okhotsk in 1716 arrived, and after thorough

repairs was put into the service.

Bering's next objective point was the mouth of the river Bolshoya

in southwestern Kamchatka. From the mouth of this river, which is

navigable for small vessels, he took the Cossack route to the interior,

first up the Bolshoya to the tributary Byistraya, then up this to

within forty versts of its source, thence across a portage to the

Kamchatka, the mouth of which was his real objective point. From this

position he would be able to fall back upon the Russian colony, which

comprised a number of unimportant stockaded forts on the Bolshoya and

Kamchatka rivers, and could also gain support from that control of the

natives which was exercised from this point. This change of base could

have been much more easily and quickly accomplished by sailing around

the Kamchatka Peninsula, but this was something that had never been

done. No accurate information was to be had in regard to the waters, or

to the location of any place. Possibly Bering had not as yet been able

to disabuse his mind of the prevalent delusions concerning the great

extent of Kamchatka. In the second place, he was no doubt unwilling to

trust his invaluable stores in the inferior vessels built at Okhotsk.

Hence he took the old route.

July 1, Spangberg sailed with the Fortuna for Bolsheretsk, accompanied

by thirteen Siberian traders. Two days later Chirikoff brought up the

rear from Yakutsk. Somewhat later, the quartermaster arrived with 110

horses and 200 sacks of flour. A week later 63 horses more arrived, on

July 20, one soldier with 80 horses, and by the 30th over 150 horses

more, and also 50 oxen.

August 11, Spangberg returned from his voyage to the Bolshoya River,

and on the 19th the whole command went on board,--some on the Fortuna

and others on the old vessel. Their destination was the Bolshoya,

situated 650 miles from Okhotsk, where they arrived September 4. Here

the cargoes were transferred to boats and, in the course of the month

of September, brought to the fort, a simple log fortress with seventeen

Russian dwellings and a chapel, twenty miles from the sea. It took the

whole winter to traverse, first with boats and later with sledges, the

585 miles across Kamchatka, from Bolsheretsk to the lower Kamchatka

fort. Under the greatest difficulties, the expedition now followed

the course of the Kamchatka River, camping at night in the snow, and

enduring many a fierce struggle with the inclement weather. The natives

were summoned from far and near to assist in transporting their goods,

but the undertaking proved fatal to many of them. Finally on March 11,

1728, Bering reached his destination, the lower Kamchatka Ostrog,[11]

where he found forty huts scattered along the banks of the river, a

fort, and a church. A handful of Cossacks lived here. They occupied

huts built above the surface of the ground. They did not always eat

their fish raw, but in other respects lived like the natives, and were

in no regard much more civilized than they. The fort was located twenty

miles from the sea, surrounded by forests of larch, which yielded

excellent material for ship-building. From this point the exploring

party proper was to start out.[12]

FOOTNOTES:

[7] Note 3.

[8] Note 4.

[9] Here as elsewhere, Old Style.

[10] Note 5.

[11] An Ostrog is a stockaded post or village.

[12] Note 6.

CHAPTER V.

THE BUILDING OF THE GABRIEL--THE DISCOVERY OF BERING STRAIT.

Bering now found himself upon the bleak shores of an Arctic sea, with

no other resources than those he had brought with him, or could extort

from these barren tracts. He again began the work of ship-building, and

in the summer of 1728, a ship called the Gabriel, staunch enough to

weather a heavy sea, was launched. The timber for this vessel had been

hauled to the ship-yard by dogs; the tar they had prepared themselves,

while rigging, cable, and anchors had been dragged nearly two thousand

miles through one of the most desolate regions of the earth. And as

for the provisions, they would certainly strike terror in the hearts

of Arctic explorers of to-day. "Fish oil was his butter, and dried

fish his beef and pork. Salt he was obliged to get from the sea,"

and according to the directions of the Cossacks he distilled spirits

from "sweet straw."[13] Thus supplied with a year's provisions, he

started upon his voyage of discovery along an unknown coast and on an

unknown sea. "It is certain," says Dr. Campbell concerning Bering at

this stage, "that no person better fitted for this undertaking could

have been found; no difficulty, no danger daunted him. With untiring

industry and almost incredible patience he overcame those difficulties

which to anyone else would have seemed insurmountable."

On July 9, the Gabriel started down the river, and on the 13th the

sails were hoisted. The crew numbered forty-four men: namely, one

captain, two lieutenants, one second lieutenant, one physician, one

quartermaster, eight sailors, one saddler, one rope-maker, five

carpenters, one bailiff, two Cossacks, nine soldiers, six servants,

one drummer, and two interpreters. Bering's point of departure was

the lower Kamchatka fort, situated 160° 50' east of Greenwich, the

variation of the compass being 13° 10' E. The latitude of the cape at

the mouth of the Kamchatka River was determined as 56° 3' N., which

agrees with the observations made by Cook, who was very near this point

on his last voyage. The day was reckoned from 12 o'clock at noon, on

which account his dating does not correspond with that of civil time;

hence, the 16th of August with him began on the 15th, at noon. The mile

of the journal is the Italian mile, which is somewhat longer than the

English mile. Bering's course was nearly all the time along the coast,

in from nine to twelve fathoms of water, and usually with land in sight

to the north and west. On July 27, they passed Cape St. Thaddeus at

a distance of three miles, and here the sea seemed fairly alive with

spotted whales, seals, sea-lions, and dolphins. After having sailed

past the Anadyr River, without quite being able to find their bearings

in regions of which they had not a single astronomical determination,

and where they were not successful in finding any natives, they

finally, on July 31, saw land extending along the northern horizon,

and soon afterwards sailed into the Bay of the Holy Cross (St. Kresta

Bay) where the Gabriel spent two days under sail in search of fresh

water and a place to anchor. On the 2d of August the latitude was

determined as 60° 50' N., whereupon the voyage was continued to the

southeast along the high and rocky coast, where every indentation

was very carefully explored. August 6, the Gabriel lay in the Bay of

Preobrashensky, and on the 7th, Chaplin was sent ashore to obtain water

from a mountain stream. On his way he found huts, where there had quite

recently been Chukchees, and in various places he found footpaths, but

met no human beings. On the 8th, Bering sailed along the coast in a

south southeasterly direction. At 7 o'clock, a boat containing eight

men was seen rowing toward the vessel. They did not, however, dare to

approach the Gabriel, but at last one of the number jumped into the

water, and on two inflated seal bladders swam out to the ship, and

announced, by the aid of the two Koriak interpreters, that they were

Chukchees, and that their people lived along the coast, that they knew

the Russians well, that the Anadyr River lay far to the west, that the

continent extended in the same direction, and that they would soon get

sight of an island. The Koriaks, however, understood his language only

imperfectly, and the journal regrets that they were on this account

prevented from obtaining further important information. Bering gave him

some small presents and sent him back to try to persuade his companions

to come on board. They approached the vessel, but suddenly turned and

disappeared. The latitude was 64° 41'.

August 9, Cape Chukotskoi was doubled, an important event in the

history of this expedition,--an event which Müller, in order to make

results fit into his frame, has not even mentioned. The name, it is

true, is not found in the journal, but it appears on Bering's chart

in Du Halde's work, which Müller knew. Bering determined the southern

extremity of the cape to be 64° 18', Cook 64° 13'.

August 11, the weather was calm and cloudy. At 2 o'clock in the

afternoon, they saw an island toward the southeast, which Bering, in

honor of the day, called St. Lawrence. At noon the latitude was found

to be 64° 20', and hence the Gabriel was in the strait between Asia and

America.

August 12, there was a light breeze and cloudy weather. On this day

they sailed sixty-nine miles, but the difference in latitude was only

29'. At sunset the longitude was computed by the aid of the variation

of the needle to be 25° 31' east of the lower Kamchatka fort, or 187°

21' east of Greenwich.

August 13, a fresh breeze and cloudy. Bering sailed during the whole

day with land in sight, and the difference in latitude was only 78'.

August 14, weather calm and cloudy. They sailed 29 miles + 8-3/4 miles

for the current. The course of the current was from south southeast to

north northwest. At noon the latitude was 66° 41' when they saw high

land astern, and three hours later high mountains. (East Cape is 66° 6'

N. lat. and 190° 21' east of Greenwich.)

August 15, gentle wind, cloudy weather. From noon until 3 o'clock

Bering sailed to the northeast, and after having sailed seven miles

in this direction, he determined to turn back. At 3 o'clock he

announced, that as he had now accomplished his task, it was his duty,

according to his orders, to return. His bearings were then 67° 18'

N. latitude, and 30° 19' east of the Kamchatka fort, or 193° 7' east

of Greenwich. In Du Halde, where Bering himself gives his reasons,

it is stated: "This was Captain Bering's most northerly point. He

thought that he had accomplished his task and obeyed orders, especially

as he no longer could see the coast extending toward the north in

the same way. (_Surtout, parcequ'il ne voyait plus que les terres

continuassent de courier de même du côté du Nord._") Moreover, if they

should go farther, he feared, in case they should have adverse winds

that they might not be able to return to Kamchatka before the end of

the summer, and how were they to be able to pass the winter in such a

climate, liable to fall into the hands of a people who had not yet been

subjugated, and who were human only in outward appearance.[14]

When Bering turned about, his command was to steer south by west,

half west. In this course they sailed with the wind at a rate of more

than seven miles an hour. At 9 o'clock in the morning, they saw a

high mountain on the right, where Chukchees lived, and to the left

and seaward they saw an island, which in honor of the day they called

Diomede.[15] This day they sailed 115 miles, and reached latitude 66°

2'.

On August 17, Bering again passed the narrowest part of the strait. The

weather was cloudy, there was a fresh breeze, and they sailed along the

Asiatic coast, where they saw many Chukchees, and at two places they

saw dwellings. The natives fled at the sight of the ship. At 3 o'clock

very high land and mountains were passed. With a very good breeze, they

had been enabled to sail 164 miles, and an observation showed that they

were in latitude 64° 27'. According to this, Bering was out of the

strait and getting farther and farther away from the American continent.

August 18, the wind was light and the weather clear. On the 20th,

beyond the Island of St. Lawrence, he met other Chukchees, who told him

that they had made journeys from the Kolyma River westward to Olenek,

but that they never went by sea. They knew of the Anadyr fort which lay

farther to the south; on this coast there dwelt people of their race;

others they did not know.

After a storm on the 31st of August, in which the main and foresail

were rent, the anchor cable was broken and the anchor lost, they

reached the mouth of the Kamchatka at 5 o'clock P. M., September 2,

1728.

FOOTNOTES:

[13] Note 7.

[14] Note 8.

[15] Note 9.

CHAPTER VI.

THE TASK ASSIGNED BY PETER THE GREAT ACCOMPLISHED.--HISTORY OF THE

CARTOGRAPHY OF EAST SIBERIA.--CAPTAIN COOK'S DEFENSE OF BERING.

Bering turned back because he felt convinced that he had sailed around

the northeastern corner of Asia, and had demonstrated that in this

part of the earth the two great continents were not connected. The

third point in his orders was of course dropped, for along the Siberian

coasts of the Arctic sea, he could expect to find neither European

colonists nor ships; hence, further search with this object in view

would be vain. He had a very clear idea of the general outline of

eastern Asia, and this knowledge was based upon the facts of his own

voyage, the information he had obtained in Yakutsk about Deshneff's

expedition from Kolyma to Anadyr, and upon the account which the

natives gave of the country and of their commercial journeys westward

to Olenek.

He was, moreover, convinced that he had given the search for a

Northeast passage a rational foundation, and his thoughts on this

subject are found clearly presented in a correspondence from St.

Petersburg to a Copenhagen periodical, _Nye Tidende_, in 1730, whence

the following: "_Bering has ascertained that there really does exist

a Northeast passage, and that from the Lena River it is possible,

provided one is not prevented by polar ice, to sail to Kamchatka, and

thence to Japan, China, and the East Indies._" This correspondence,

which appeared immediately after his return on the first of March,

1730, originated either with him or with some of his immediate friends,

and shows that he fully appreciated the extent of his discovery.[16]

It was this conviction that led him to undertake his next great

enterprise, the navigating and charting of the Northeast passage from

the Obi River to Japan,--from the known West to the known East.

Unfortunately, however, the principal result of his work remains as

above stated. An unhappy fate prevented him from discovering the

adjacent American continent. At the narrowest place, Bering Strait is

39 miles wide; and hence, under favorable conditions, it is possible to

see simultaneously the coast-lines of both continents.[17] Cook, more

fortunate than Bering, was enabled to do this, for when he approached

the strait, the sun dispersed the fog, and at one glance both

continents were seen. With Bering it was otherwise, for, as we have

seen from his journal, the weather during the whole time that he was in

the strait, both on the voyage up and back, was dark and cloudy. Not

until the 18th of August did the weather clear up, but as the Gabriel

was sailing before a sharp breeze, he was then too far away to see land

on the other side. "This," Von Baer exclaims, "must be called _bad

luck_."

We may possibly feel inclined to blame Bering for his haste. Why did

he not cruise about in the region of 65° to 67° north latitude? A few

hours' sailing would have brought him to the American coast. This

objection may, however, prove to be illegitimate. The geographical

explorer, as well as every other investigator, has a right to be judged

from the standpoint of his times, and on the basis of his own premises.

Bering had no apprehension of an adjacent continent, partly on account

of the Koriak interpreter's imperfect knowledge of the Chukchee

tongue, partly as a result of the fact that the knowledge of the times

concerning the western coast of America was very meager. This knowledge

extended no farther than to 43° north latitude,--to Cape Blanco in

California; hence, in the nature of things, he could not be expected to

search for land which presumably he knew nothing of. But here we must

also take into consideration his poor equipment. His cables, ropes,

and sails were in such bad condition, after the three years' transport

through Siberia, that he could not weather a storm, and his stock of

provisions was running so low that it put an unpleasant check on any

inclination to overreach his main object, and this, as we have seen,

did not include the exploration of an American coast, if separated

from Asia. To explore a new coast thirteen degrees of latitude and

thirty degrees of longitude in extent, and make such a chart of it

that its outline is comparatively correct, and which, for a long time,

was far superior to anything made afterward,[18] ought certainly to be

considered a splendid result, when we remember that the objects of the

expedition were entirely of a nautico-geographical character. Bering's

determinations of longitude in East Siberia were the first made there,

and through them it was ascertained that the country extended thirty

degrees farther toward the east than was supposed. His observations

were based on two eclipses of the moon in Kamchatka in the years 1728

and 1729,[19] and although they were not entirely accurate, they vary

so little, that the general position of the country was established.

And hence we are not surprised to find that no one has given Bering a

better testimonial than his great and more fortunate successor, Captain

Cook. He says:[20] "In justice to the memory of Bering, I must say,

that he has delineated the coast very well, and fixed the latitude

and longitude of the points better than could be expected from the

methods he had to go by." Yes, Captain Cook found it necessary to

defend Bering against the only official report of the expedition which

at that time had appeared, and more than once he puts in proper relief

Bering's sober investigations, as compared with Müller's fancies and

guesses. Before the time of Cook, it had been customary to depreciate

Bering's work;[21] but since that time Admiral Lütke, a hundred years

after Bering's death, has defended his reputation, and Berch, who very

carefully perused his journals, repeatedly expresses his admiration

for the accuracy with which the nautical computations were made. This

statement is made after a comparison of results with those obtained by

Captain Cook.

Furthermore, as has already been said, Bering was not aware of the

fact that he was sailing in a comparatively narrow sound,--in that

strait which has carried his name to posterity. He saw nothing beyond

the nearest of the Diomede Islands, that is to say, the middle of the

strait; and this island, as we have seen, is mentioned in the journal

and on the chart, with the latitude correctly given.[22] His name was

not immediately associated with these regions. The first place, so

far as I am able to ascertain, that the name Bering Strait appears,

is on a map which accompanies Rob. de Vangondie's "_Mémoire sur les

pays de l'Asie_," Paris, 1774. But it is especially to Captain Cook's

high-mindedness that the name was retained, for it was used in his

great work. Later, Reinholdt Forster, who characterizes Bering as "a

meritorious and truly great navigator," triumphantly fought his cause

against Büsching and others.[23]

But even at the present time, an interesting misunderstanding attaches

to this part of Bering's history and the cartography of these regions.

In our Arctic literature and on all our polar maps, it is asserted

that Vitus Bering, on his first voyage, turned back at Cape Serdze

Kamen. That such a supposition has been able to maintain itself, only

shows how little the original sources of his history are known in West

Europe, and how unheeded they have been in Russia. About a hundred

years ago the Danish Admiral De Löwenörn and the English hydrographer

A. Dalrymple showed that Frobisher Strait had by some ignorant hand

been located on the east coast of Greenland, while it was in reality

located on the coast of _Meta incognita_ beyond Davis Strait.[24] A

similar error presents itself in connection with Serdze Kamen. It can

be historically established that this name has been the object of a

double change, and that the present Serdze Kamen on the northern coast

of the Chukchee peninsula, has nothing whatever to do with the history

of Bering and his voyage. This misunderstanding is, however, not of

recent date, for as early as in the first decade after the voyage, it

was assumed that Bering's course, even after he had passed East Cape,

was along the coast. Thus I find on a map by Hazius in Nuremberg,

1738,[25] and other maps of about the same time, based on Bering's map

as given by Du Halde, that the Gabriel's turning point is marked by a

star near the coast with the same latitude as the present Serdze Kamen,

with the following explanation: "_Terminus litorum a Navarcho Beerings

recognitorum._" This supposition gradually gained ground in West Europe

as well as in Russia, especially so, too, as Bering's new expedition

and consequent death prevented him from correcting the error, and as

there for a generation was nothing more known of the voyage than the

resumé which appears in Du Halde's work. Moreover, the manner in which

the coast-line in Bering's original map is extended beyond East Cape,

has only served to strengthen the opinion. The fact is that Serdze

Kamen was a name unknown to Bering. It is found neither on his map, in

his own account, nor in the ship's journal, and could not be so found

for a very obvious reason--Bering had never been there.

After having passed East Cape on the 14th of August, he no longer

sailed along the coast. On that day at noon they still saw land astern,

and three hours later, high mountains, but during the succeeding

forty-eight hours land was seen neither to the east nor the west.

As we have seen, the journal gives the turning point as 4° 44' east of

Cape Chukotskoi, and Dr. Campbell gives another series of astronomical

determinations, sent by Bering from Kamchatka to the Senate in St.

Petersburg, and these show in a striking way that the turning point was

east of the northeastern corner of Asia.

According to these:[26]

The Island of St. Lawrence is 64° north latitude and 122° 55' east of

Tobolsk.

The Island of Diomede is 66° north latitude and 125° 42' east of

Tobolsk.

The turning point, 67° 18' north latitude and 126° 7' east of Tobolsk.

Hence, Serdze Kamen (67° 3' north latitude and 188° 11' east of

Greenwich), as Berch[27] expressly remarks, must have lain more than

four degrees west of the turning point. That this must have been

so appears also from the course of the vessel on its return, west

southwest, which would have been impossible, if the Gabriel had been

near the north coast, intending to return through the strait. Among

recent writers, Von Baer[28] alone critically calls attention to these

facts, without, however, thoroughly investigating the case. This I

shall now attempt to do.

The name Serdze Kamen appears for the first time--historically

speaking--in Gerhard Fr. Müller's _Sammlung Russischer Geschichte_,

Vol. III., 1758.[29] He says: "Bering finally, in a latitude of 67°

18', reached a headland whence the coast recedes to the west. From this

the captain drew the very plausible conclusion that he now had reached

the most northeasterly point of Asia. But here we are forced to admit

that the circumstance upon which the captain based his conclusion was

false, as it has since been learned that the above-mentioned headland

was identical with the one called Serdze Kamen by the inhabitants

of Fort Anadyr, on account of the promontory being heart-shaped."

Even this looks suspicious. The account of some ignorant Cossacks is

presented as a corrective to the report of educated navigators, and it

is also indicated that the garrison at Fort Anadyr had exact knowledge

of the northern coast of the Chukchee peninsula, something it did not

have at all.[30]

But in order to understand Müller, it is necessary to make a slight

digression. When Bering, in the summer of 1729, was on his return to

St. Petersburg, he met, between Okhotsk and Yakutsk, the Cossack chief

Shestakoff, who by the aid of Bering's ships intended to undertake

an extensive military expedition in the eastern seas. He soon fell,

however, in an engagement, but his comrade Captain Pavlutski led an

invasion into the land of the Chukchees. From Fort Anadyr he went

northward to the Arctic Ocean, thence along the coast toward the east,

then across the Chukchee peninsula to the Pacific. A more detailed

account than this cannot be given, for his route as indicated on

Müller's map is an impossible one. This much, however, seems to be

irrefutable: shortly after having crossed the Chukchee peninsula in a

southerly direction, he came to a sea, and this sea could be no other

than Bering Sea.[31] Moreover, it appears from the account, that he was

on his return to the fort. Müller goes on to say: "From here he sent

a part of his men in boats, whither he himself with the majority of

the party proceeded by land, following the shore, which at this place

extended toward the southeast. Those in boats were so near the shore

that they reported to him every evening. On the seventh day, the party

in boats came to the mouth of a river, and twelve days later, to the

mouth of another. At about seven miles from this point there extends

eastward far into the sea a headland, which is first mountainous, but

then flat, as far as the eye can reach. This headland is probably

what induced Captain Bering to turn back. Among the mountains on this

promontory there is one which, as already noted, is by the natives of

Anadyrskoi Ostrog called Serdze Kamen. From here Pavlutski started for

the interior." On this loose reasoning rests Serdze Kamen,--a process

of reasoning which attempts to show clearly that this headland must be

a point on the Pacific coast, and that it must have lain many days'

journey west of Bering Strait. But how is it possible, that Müller

could have been so confused as to make such strange blunders? The case

could not thus have presented itself to him. On the basis of Deshneff's

journey and Pavlutski's cruise, he formed in his imagination a picture

of northeastern Siberia, in which the Chukchee peninsula assumed a

double horned shape, or--as Von Baer expresses it--resembled a bull's

horn.

He used Bering's chart as a foundation when he had no other, but he

omitted Cape Chukotskoi, and on the 66th parallel he inserted Serdze

Kamen. From this point he made the coast recede, first westward, then

northward and eastward to a large circular peninsula situated between

72°-75° north latitude, which he called Chukotskoi Noss. It is this

imaginary peninsula which Pavlutski crosses. He accordingly reaches the

Pacific coast to the north of Bering Strait, and in this way Müller

succeeds in locating Serdze Kamen north of the strait. Hence, according

to Müller's opinion, Bering had never doubled the northeastern corner

of Asia, and he had never been out of the Pacific. "And although the

coast beyond Serdze Kamen," he says, "turns westward, it forms only

a large bay, and the coast-line again takes a northerly direction to

Chukotskoi Noss, a large peninsula in a latitude of 70° or more, and

where it would first be possible to say authoritatively that the two

hemispheres were not connected. But how could all this have been known

on the ship? The correct idea of the shape of the land of the Chukchees

and the peninsula bearing the same name, is due to geographical

investigations instituted by me at Yakutsk in 1736 and 1737."

Blinded by the archival dust of Yakutsk, Müller confused everything.

Cape Chukotskoi, which Bering had found to be in latitude 64° 18' N.,

was placed beyond 72° N.; Bering's most northerly point, which lay

far out in the sea, was changed to a headland in latitude 66° N.,

and, misled by some vague reports from the garrison at Fort Anadyr, he

called this point Serdze Kamen. Everything is guess-work!

But where did Müller get his Serdze Kamen, and what place was it

that the garrison at Fort Anadyr called by this name? For of the

extreme northeast part of the peninsula, or the details of Bering's

voyage--especially as early as in 1730--they could have had no

knowledge. The explanation is not difficult. On Russian maps of the

last century, those of Pallas and Billings, for example,[32] there is

found on the eastern shore of St. Kresta Bay, somewhat northeast of the

mouth of the Anadyr, a cape which bears the name of Serdze Kamen. As

Bering does not have this name, and as it seems to have been known as

early as at the time of Pavlutski, it must have originated either with

him and the Cossacks at the fort, or with the Chukchees. Sauer relates

the following concerning the origin of the name: "Serdze Kamen is a

very remarkable mountain projecting into the bay at Anadyr. The land

side of this mountain has many caves, to which the Chukchees fled when

Pavlutski attacked them, and from where they killed a large number of

Russians as they passed. Pavlutski was consequently obliged to seek

reinforcements at Anadyr, where he told that the Chukchees shot his

men from the _heart_ of the _cliff_, and hence it received the name of

Serdze Kamen, or the heart-cliff." But this account, which finds no

authority whatever in Sauer's work, is severely criticised by Lütke,

who calls attention to the fact that the Chukchees called a mountain on

the eastern shore of the St. Kresta Bay _Linglin Gaï_, that is, the

heart-cliff. It is quite improbable that they got this name from the

Cossacks in Anadyrsk, and hence we here undoubtedly have the origin of

the name.[33]

In Steller's various works one can see what confused ideas concerning

Bering's first expedition the academists who wrote his history really

had. They succeeded in bringing confusion into the simplest questions,

and, as a result, wrecked his reputation. In Steller's description

of Kamchatka, where he enumerates the headlands of the peninsula, a

remarkable statement is found, which offers excellent proof of the

correctness of Lütke's opinion.[34] The situation of Serdze Kamen

between East Cape and the mouth of the Anadyr is here distinctly given.

Hence, according to his opinion, Bering reached no farther than to St.

Kresta Bay, and the sarcastic remarks plainly show Steller's partisan

view.[35] Müller was not so rash. When he moved Cape Chukotskoi half

a dozen degrees farther to the north, he moved Serdze Kamen also, and

_carried it from St. Kresta Bay up into Bering Strait_.

In this cool move he was fortunate enough to get into a closer

agreement with Bering's determination of latitude, but unfortunately

hit upon new difficulties. His own map is based upon Bering's, as he

had no other, but Bering's voyage did not, as is well known, end at any

headland. Neither his chart nor his journal supports any such theory,

and hence Müller, either accidentally or purposely, does not in his

book have a word about the voyage from the 10th to the 15th of August,

and on his map (1758) Bering's "track" is broken off near East Cape.

This headland is Müller's Serdze Kamen,[36] a fact of which even a very

cursory glance at Müller's and Bering's maps will convince any one. But

even Bering had located the northeastern corner of Asia (East Cape) a

few minutes too far northward, and in order to make the map coincide

with his theory and with Bering's computations, Müller made the error

greater, without, however, fixing it at Bering's turning-point, but at

67° 18' N. lat., where, according to Bering's and his own account, it

ought to be.

Thus matters stood up to the time of Cook's third voyage. But as Cook

had on board, not only Müller's book and map in an English translation,

but also Bering's map, and an excellent treatise by Dr. Campbell in

Harris's Collection of Voyages, he could pass judgment while at the

place in question. As a matter of course he upholds Bering. Hence, it

was a natural result that Serdze Kamen, which, as we have seen, was

to coincide with the most northerly point reached by Bering, could no

longer retain its position in the latitude of East Cape, which was more

than a degree too far south; and in order to make Müller's account

intelligible, Captain Cook had the choice between entirely expunging

the name, or bringing it up to an approximately correct latitude. Cook

chose the latter; and to this mistake on his part it is due that the

last splinter of Müller's vain structure passed into the cartography

of the future. In latitude 67° 3' N., Cook found a projecting

promontory with many crags and peaks, and "possibly one or another of

them may be heart-shaped. This peak we have, on Müller's authority,

called Serdze Kamen."[37]

Here then we have the third Serdze Kamen, and we can now see how it

has wandered about the northeast corner of Asia. As a matter of fact,

it is situated in a latitude nearly the same as the most northerly

point reached by Bering, but unfortunately this does not at all answer

Müller's description. It does not project eastward into the sea, but on

the contrary, its main direction is toward the northwest. At the base

of this headland, the coast does not in a striking manner extend toward

the west, but continues in its former direction. Nor does it consist of

steep rocks and a low point extending farther than the eye can reach.

In other words, the present Serdze Kamen has nothing whatever to do

either with Bering's voyage or Müller's description.[38]

To this period of Bering's history another observation must be made.

In his excellent treatise entitled, "What Geography owes to Peter

the Great," Von Baer tries to show that Bering turned back in his

course, not on the 15th, but on the 16th of August, and that too,

notwithstanding the fact that both Bering and Müller, in print, give

the former date,--yes, notwithstanding the fact that Von Baer himself

had an autograph card from Bering which likewise gives the 15th. In

his criticism on this point, Von Baer based his statements on those

extracts of the ship's journal referred to above, which as we have

seen give the 16th of August, and this, in his opinion, must be

decisive. But the disagreement in these sources is only an apparent

one. As we already have noted, Bering reckoned the day from 12 o'clock

at noon. Hence the journal's 16th of August began at noon on the 15th

of August, and as Bering turned back at 3 o'clock in the afternoon,

this occurred on the 15th of August according to the calendar, and on

the 16th of August according to the artificial day of the journal. Thus

Von Baer's correction is based on a misunderstanding.[39] That this

view of the question is correct is seen also from that passage in the

journal where the Island of St. Lawrence is mentioned. According to the

journal this island was passed at 2 o'clock P.M. on the 11th of August,

and Berch, to whom we are indebted for information concerning Bering's

day, is, strange to say, surprised to think that Bering named the

island in honor of the saint of the preceding day, notwithstanding that

the 11th at 2 o'clock P. M. is in reality, according to the calendar

day, the 10th of August, St. Lawrence Day. The first twelve hours of

the journal's day belong to the preceding day. Hence, Bering turned

back August 15, at 3 o'clock P. M.

FOOTNOTES:

[16] Note 10.

[17] Note 11.

[18] Note 12.

[19] Note 13.

[20] Note 14.

[21] Note 15.

[22] Note 16.

[23] Note 17.

[24] Note 18.

[25] Note 19.

[26] Note 20.

[27] Note 21.

[28] Note 22.

[29] Note 23.

[30] Note 24.

[31] Note 25.

[32] Note 26.

[33] Note 27.

[34] The passage is: "_Das Tschuktschische Vorgebürge in Nord Osten_,

(elsewhere he locates it in latitude 66° N.), _ein anderes 2 Grad

ohngefaehr südlicher, Sirza-kamen, der Herzstein gennent, der auch

bey der ersten Expedition der herzlichen Courage der See-Officier

die Gränzen gesetzt. Ohnweit demselben ist eine sehr groze Einbucht

und guter Hafen, auch vor die grösesten Fahrzenge; Das Anadirskische

Vorgebürge...._"

[35] Note 28.

[36] Note 29.

[37] Note 30.

[38] Note 31 and Map I. in Appendix.

[39] Note 32.

CHAPTER VII.

BERING'S WINTER AT THE FORT.--INDICATIONS OF AN ADJACENT

CONTINENT.--UNSUCCESSFUL SEARCH FOR THIS CONTINENT.--RETURN TO ST.

PETERSBURG.--GENERAL REVIEW OF THE RESULTS OF THE FIRST EXPEDITION.

When Bering on the 2d of September, 1728, entered the mouth of the

river Kamchatka, he met the Fortuna, which had made a voyage around the

Kamchatka Peninsula. Who commanded the vessel on this voyage, can not

be ascertained.

Bering wintered at the fort. On the days that it was light, the men

were busy at work or receiving instructions, and thus the winter passed

without any remarkable occurrences or misfortunes. Spangberg, however,

was obliged, on account of illness, to go to Bolsheretsk.[40]

At lower Kamchatskoi Ostrog, Bering became convinced that there must

be a large wooded country not far to the east. The waves were more

like those of a sea than of an ocean. The driftwood did not indicate

the flora of eastern Asia, and the depth of the sea grew less toward

the north; the east wind brought drift-ice to the mouth of the river

after three days, the north wind, on the other hand, after five days.

The birds of passage came to Kamchatka from the east. The reports of

the natives corroborated his inferences. They declared that they were

able, in very clear weather, to see land in the east (Bering Island),

and that in the year 1715 a man had stranded there, who said that his

native land was far to the east and had large rivers and forests with

very high trees. All this led Bering to believe that a large country

lay toward the northeast at no very great distance.

In the summer or 1729, he started out to find this country, leaving

the mouth of the Kamchatka for the east, July 6. If the wind had been

favourable, he would very soon have reached Bering Island, where twelve

years later he was buried. He must have been very near this island,

invisible to him, however, on account of a fog; but on the 8th of

July he was struck by a severe storm, which the frail vessel and the

weather-worn rigging could not defy, and hence on the 9th, he headed

for the southern point of Kamchatka. But also on this voyage he did

geographical service by determining the location of the peninsula and

the northern Kurile Islands, as well as exploring the channel between

them, and thus finding for the Russian mariner a new and easier route

to Kamchatka. Berch says, that although Bering had adverse winds on the

voyage to Bolsheretsk, all his computations are quite accurate; the

difference in latitude between the latter place and lower Kamchatka

Ostrog is given as 6° 29', which is very nearly correct. Bering

likewise determined the location of Cape Lopatka at 51° N. lat.

At Bolsheretsk Bering collected his men, distributed provisions and

powder, left the Fortuna with a crew of one corporal and eleven men,

and on the 14th of July steered for Okhotsk. After a fortunate, but not

otherwise remarkable, journey, he reached St. Petersburg on the 1st of

March, 1730. "From the perusal of his ship's journal," says Berch, "one

becomes convinced that our famous Bering was an extraordinarily able

and skillful officer; and if we consider his defective instruments,

his great hardships, and the obstacles that had to be overcome, his

observations and the great accuracy of his journal deserve the highest

praise. He was a man who did Russia honor."

Bering had thus done good work in the service of Asiatic geography.

He had shown that he possessed an explorer's most important

qualification--never to make positive statements where there is no

definite knowledge. By virtue of his extensive travels in northeastern

Asia, his scientific qualifications, his ability to make careful,

accurate observations, and his own astronomical determinations, and

by virtue of his direct acquaintance with Kosyrefsky's and Lushin's

works, he was in a position to form a more correct opinion than any

contemporary concerning this part of the earth. In spite of these

great advantages in his favor, his work was rejected by the leading

authorities in St. Petersburg. It is true that Bering found sincere

support in the able and influential Ivan Kirilovich Kiriloff, but

to no one else could he turn for a just and competent judge. The

great Russian empire had not yet produced a scientific aristocracy.

The Academy of Science, which had been founded five or six years

previous, was not composed of able scholars, but of a number of

more or less talented contestants for honor and fame,--of men who

occupied a prominent yet disputed position in a foreign and hostile

country--young, hot-headed Germans and Frenchmen who had not yet

achieved complete literary recognition. Such people are stern and

severe judges. Bering was unfortunate enough to fall into the hands

of the German Gerhard Fr. Müller and the Frenchman Joseph Nicolas De

l'Isle.

Although Müller had not yet seen Siberia, and although it was

not until ten years later that he succeeded in building that

geographical card-house which Captain Cook so noiselessly blew down,

he nevertheless, even at that time, on every occasion expressed the

opinion that Bering had not reached the northeast point of Asia, and

that his voyage had consequently not accomplished its purpose. De

l'Isle was Bering's intellectual antipode. As a geographer he delighted

in moving about on the borderland of the world's unexplored regions.

His element was that of vaguest conjecture,--the boldest combinations

of known and unknown; and even as an old man he did not shrink from

the task of constructing, from insufficient accounts of travels and

apocryphal sailor-stories, a map of the Pacific, of which not a

single line has been retained. He overstrained himself on the fame

of his deceased brother, whose methods, inclinations, and valuable

geographical collections he had inherited, but unfortunately not

that intuitive insight which made Guillaume De l'Isle the leading

geographer of his age. Hence, as a geographer, he was merely an echo of

his brother.

One of Guillaume De l'Isle's most famous essays had been on the island

of Yezo. In 1643 the stadtholder of Batavia, the able Van Diemen,

sent the ships Kastrikon and Breskens under the command of Martin de

Vries and Hendrick Corneliszoon Schaep to Japan for the purpose of

navigating the east coast of the island of Nipon (Hondo), and thence

go in search of America by sailing in a northwesterly direction to the

45th degree of latitude; but in case they did not find America, which

people continued to believe lay in these regions, they were to turn

toward the northeast and seek the coast of Asia on the 56th degree

of latitude. De Vries partly carried out his chimerical project. At

40° north latitude he saw the coast of Nipon, two degrees farther

north, the snow-capped mountains of Yezo, and thence sailed between

the two Kuriles lying farthest to the south, which he called Staaten

Eiland and Kompagniland. He then continued his voyage into the Sea

of Okhotsk to 48° north latitude, where he turned about, saw Yezo

in latitude 45°, but came, without noticing La Perouse Strait, over

to Saghalin, which he considered a part of Yezo, and as he followed

the coast of Saghalin to Cape Patience in latitude 48°, he thought

Yezo a very extensive island on the eastern coast of Asia. Through

the cartography of the seventeenth century, for example Witsen's and

Homann's Atlas, but especially through Guillaume De l'Isle's globes

and maps, these erroneous ideas were scattered over the earth, and,

when the first accounts of Kamchatka, without being accompanied by

a single astronomical determination, reached Europe, many believed

that this land was identical with Yezo. But as De Vries had left some

determinations of latitude and longitude which showed that the island

must be very near Japan, some went even so far as to suppose that it

was contiguous to Nipon; indeed, Guillaume De l'Isle's essay attempted

to prove this. Thus three lands were made one, while De Vries's

Staaten Eiland and Kompagniland, which could find no place in this

series, were forced eastward into the Pacific as large tracts of land

separated from Kamchatka-Yezo and from each other by narrow straits.

But this is not all. The Portuguese cosmographer Texeïra had in 1649,

in these same regions, indicated a coast projecting far to the east

toward America, seen by Juan de Gama on a voyage to New Spain from the

Philippine Islands. This Gamaland was now described as a continuation

of Kompagniland. In Homann's Atlas, 1709, it is represented as a part

of America, and Guillaume De l'Isle varied on the theme in a different

way.[41]

Unfortunately these ideas held sway in the scientific world when

Bering, in 1730, returned. Furthermore, scholars thought these ideas

were confirmed by Swedish prisoners of war who had returned from

Siberia, especially by the famous Tabbert, or Strahlenberg, as he was

later called, whose various imaginary chart-outlines had been adopted

in Homann's Atlas, 1727, and in other West European geographical works

then in vogue.[42]

Bering returned. His sober accounts and accurate maps, in which there

was nothing imaginary whatever, were now to take up the fight against

these prejudices. Bering declared that he had sailed around Kamchatka

without having seen anything of these lands, although he had--in a

different direction, however--noticed signs of land. On his map,

Kamchatka was represented as a definitely defined region, and hence

Guillaume De l'Isle's structure had received its first blow, in case

Bering's representations should be accepted. But Bering's reputation

had been undermined in still another direction. The above-mentioned

Cossack chief Shestakoff had, during his sojourn in Russia, distributed

various rough contour sketches of northeastern Asia. This brave

warrior, however, knew just as little about wielding a pen as he did a

pencil. The matter of a few degrees more or less in some coast-lines

did not seriously trouble him. Even his own drawings did not agree.

Northeast of the Chukchee peninsula he had sketched an extensive

country, which Bering had not seen.

It is characteristic of Joseph De l'Isle that he accepted both

Shestakoff and Strahlenberg, and as late as in 1753 still clung to

their outlines. In the first place, it satisfied his family pride to

be able to maintain his brother's views of the cartography of these

regions (and of his views Strahlenberg's were but an echo), and it

moreover satisfied his predisposition to that which was vague and

hypothetical. At first De l'Isle succeeded in carrying out his wishes,

and in 1737 the Academy published a map of Asia in which it would prove

extremely difficult to find any trace of Bering's discoveries.[43]

It was accordingly quite the proper thing to consider Bering's first

expedition wholly, or at least to a great extent, unsuccessful. In

the literature of that day there are evidences of this, especially in

Steller's writings. He treats Bering with scornful superiority, which

is particularly out of place, as he shows himself a poor judge in

geographical matters.[44] Kiriloff, who in his general map of Russia in

1734[45] unreservedly accepted Bering's map, was the only man who gave

him due recognition. The Academy could not persuade itself to make use

of the only scientifically obtained outline map in existence of the

remotest regions of the empire, until Bering, many years afterwards,

had won full recognition in Paris, Nuremberg, and London. Bering's map

was made in Moscow in 1731, and the Russian government presented it

to the king of Poland,[46] who gave it to the Jesuit father Du Halde.

He had it printed and inserted in D'Anville's _Nouvelle Atlas de la

Chine_, a supplement to his large work on China, to which we have

several times referred.[47] Of this work Dr. Campbell later gave an

account in Harris's Collection of Voyages, and it was, furthermore, the

basis of the better class of geographical works on eastern Asia of last

century until Captain Cook's day. A copy of the eastern half of the map

will be found in the appendix to this treatise.

FOOTNOTES:

[40] A port on the southern coast of Kamchatka.

[41] See Maps II. and III.

[42] Note 33.

[43] Note 34.

[44] Note 35.

[45] Note 36.

[46] Note 37.

[47] Note 38.

PART II.

THE GREAT NORTHERN EXPEDITION.

CHAPTER VIII.

BERING'S PLANS FOR A SECOND EXPEDITION.--THE GREATEST GEOGRAPHICAL

ENTERPRISE EVER UNDERTAKEN.

Arctic exploration has a bewitching power over its devotees. Bering and

his companions did not escape the enchantment. Hardly had they returned

from a five years' sojourn in the extremest corner of the world, when

they declared themselves willing to start out again. As they had met

with so much doubt and opposition from scholars,--had learned that

the world's youngest marine lacked the courage to recognize its own

contributions to science, and, furthermore, as the Admiralty thought it

had given strong reasons for doubting Bering's results,[48] he proposed

to make his future explorations on a larger scale and remove all doubt,

by charting the whole of this disputed part of the globe.

April 30, 1730, only two months after his return, he presented two

plans to the Admiralty. These have been found and published by Berch,

and are of the greatest importance in judging of Bering's true relation

to the Great Northern Expedition. In the first of these propositions

he sets forth a series of suggestions for the administration of

East Siberia, and for a better utilization of its resources. He

desired, among other things, missionary work among the Yakuts, better

discipline among the East Siberian Cossacks, more honesty among the

yassak-collectors, the opening of iron mines at Okhotsk and Udinsk, and

various other things. But it was never his intention to carry out these

propositions himself, and it was a great mistake for the government to

burden his instructions with such purely administrative work.

His second proposition is incomparably more interesting. In this he

indicates the general outline of his Great Northern Expedition, the

greatest geographical enterprise that the world has hitherto known.

This document shows that he was the originator of the plan, something

that has been contradicted, and but for this document might still

stand contradicted. He proposed to start out from Kamchatka to explore

and chart the western coast of America and establish commercial

relations with that country, thence to visit Japan and Amoor for the

same purpose, and finally to chart either by land or sea the Arctic

coast of Siberia,--namely, from the Obi to the Lena.[49] Through

these three enterprises and his former expedition, it was Bering's

object to fill the vacant space on his chart between the known West

and the known East,--between the Kara Sea and the Japan Islands. He

refused to corroborate his first observations by again visiting the

same localities, and he rightly concluded, that absolute proof of the

separation of the continents would be ascertained if the American coast

were charted.

The political situation in the empire favored the adoption of Bering's

plans. The Duchess of Courland, Anna Ivanovna, had just (1730) ascended

the throne. With her the foreigners and Peter's reform party again

came into power, and with much more zeal than skill, they sought to

continue Peter's work. Anna aimed to shine in Europe as the ruler of a

great power, and in Russia as a West European queen. Europe was to be

awed by Russian greatness, and Russia by European wisdom. In one of his

high-flown speeches Czar Peter had given assurance that science would

forsake its abodes in West Europe, and in the fullness of time cast a

halo of immortal glory around the name of Russia.

It was necessary to speed this time. Anna and her coadjutors had an

insatiable desire for the splendor and exterior luster of culture.

Like upstarts in wealth they sought to surround themselves with some

of that glory which only gray-haired honor can bestow. One of the

surest ways to this glory was through the equipment of scientific

expeditions. They had at their disposal an academy of science, a fleet,

and the resources of a mighty empire. The sacrifice of a few thousand

human lives troubled them but little, and they exerted themselves to

make the enterprise as large and sensational as possible. Bering's

above-mentioned proposition was taken as a foundation for these plans,

but when, after the lapse of two years, his proposition left the

various departments of the government--the Senate, the Academy, and

the Admiralty--it had assumed such proportions that he found great

difficulty in recognizing it.

After having on April 30, 1730, submitted to the Admiralty his new

proposition, together with the accounts and reports of his first

expedition, Bering was sent to Moscow, where Anna maintained her court

during the first few years of her reign. Here he laid his plans before

the Senate, and made the map before referred to; but all the leading

men were then too much occupied with court intrigues to be able to give

his plans any of their attention. Separated from his family, he wearied

of life in Moscow, and on January 5, 1732, the Senate gave him leave

of absence to go to St. Petersburg, on condition that Chaplin and the

steward would conclude the reports. Moreover, the Senate ordered that

the Admiralty should pay Bering's claims against the government for his

services. In view of the hardships he had endured, he received 1,000

rubles, double the amount to which he was entitled according to the

regulations of the department. Almost simultaneously he was promoted,

in regular succession, to the position of _capitain-commandeur_ in the

Russian fleet, the next position below that of rear-admiral.

In the spring of 1732, Anna, Biron, and Ostermann had succeeded in

crushing the Old Russian opposition. The leaders of this party,

especially the family of Dolgoruki, had been either banished to

Siberia or scattered about in the provinces and in fortresses, and now

there was nothing to hinder the government in pursuing its plans. As

early as April 17, the Empress[50] ordered that Bering's proposition

should be executed, and charged the Senate to take the necessary

steps for this purpose. The Senate, presided over by Ivan Kiriloff,

an enthusiastic admirer of Peter the Great, acted with dispatch. On

May 2, it promulgated two ukases, in which it declared the objects of

the expedition, and sought to indicate the necessary means. Although

the Senate here in the main followed Bering's own proposition and

made a triple expedition (an American, a Japanese, and an Arctic), it

nevertheless betrayed a peculiar inclination to burden the chief of

the expedition with tasks most remote from his own original plans. It

directed him not only to explore the Shantar Islands and reach the

Spanish possessions in America, something that Bering had never thought

of, but also included in its ukase a series of recommendations for the

development of Siberia,--recommendations which Bering had previously

made to the government, and which had already provoked some definite

efforts, as the exiled Pissarjeff, a former officer of the Senate, had

been removed to Okhotsk to develop that region and extend the maritime

relations on the Pacific.

He seems, however, not to have accomplished anything, and the Senate

thought it feasible to burden Bering with a part of this task. He

was directed to supply Okhotsk with more inhabitants, to introduce

cattle-raising on the Pacific coast, to found schools in Okhotsk for

both elementary and nautical instruction, to establish a dock-yard in

this out-of-the-way corner, to transport men and horses to Yudomskaya

Krest, and to establish iron-works at Yakutsk, Udinsk, and other

places. But this was simply the beginning of the avalanche, and as it

rolled along down through the Admiralty and Academy, it assumed most

startling dimensions. These authorities aspired to nothing less than

raising all human knowledge one step higher. The Admiralty desired

the expedition to undertake the nautical charting of the Old World

from Archangel to Nipon--even to Mexico; and the Academy could not

be satisfied with anything less than a scientific exploration of all

northern Asia. As a beginning, Joseph Nicolas De l'Isle, professor of

astronomy at the Academy, was instructed to give a graphic account of

the present state of knowledge of the North Pacific, and in a memoir to

give Bering instructions how to find America from the East. The Senate

also decreed that the former's brother, Louis, surnamed La Croyère, an

adventurer of somewhat questionable character, should accompany the

expedition as astronomer. Thus decree after decree followed in rapid

succession. On December 28, the Senate issued a lengthy ukase, which,

in sixteen paragraphs, outlined _in extenso_ the nautico-geographical

explorations to be undertaken by the expedition. Commodore Bering and

Lieut. Chirikoff, guided by the instructions of the Academy, were to

sail to America with two ships for the purpose of charting the American

coast. They were to be accompanied by La Croyère, who, with the

assistance of the surveyors Krassilnikoff and Popoff, was to undertake

a series of local observations through Siberia, along several of the

largest rivers of the country and in its more important regions, across

the Pacific, and also along the coast of the New World. With three

ships Spangberg was to sail to the Kurile Islands, Japan, and the still

more southerly parts of Asia, while simultaneously the coast from

Okhotsk to Uda, to Tugur, to the mouth of the Amoor, and the coasts of

the Shantar Islands and Saghalin were to be charted.

Even these tasks exceeded all reasonable demands, and not until several

generations later did Cook, La Perouse, and Vancouver succeed in

accomplishing what the Russian Senate in a few pen-strokes directed

Bering to do. And yet, not until the government touched the Arctic

side of this task, did it entirely lose sight of all reason. Its

instructions to Bering were, not only to chart the coast of the Old

World from the Dwina to the Pacific, to explore harbors and estuaries

along this coast, to describe the country and study its natural

resources, especially its mineral wealth, but also to dispatch an

expedition to the Bear Islands, off the mouth of the Kolyma, and to see

to it that his earlier trip to the Chukchee peninsula was repeated,

besides sailing from there to America, as the results of his former

voyage "were unsatisfactory," reliable information concerning that

country having been received from the Cossack Melnikoff.

All these expeditions were to start out from the great Siberian

rivers,--from the Dwina to the Obi with two vessels under the charge

of the Admiralty; from the Obi and Lena with three twenty-four-oared

boats, two of which were to meet between these two rivers, and the

third was to sail around Bering's Peninsula (this Reclus calls the

Chukchee peninsula), or, if America proved to be connected with that

country, it was to attempt to find European colonies. The orders of the

Senate were, furthermore, to the effect that surveyors should be sent

out in advance for the preliminary charting of these river-mouths, and

to erect light-houses, establish magazines for convenient relays, and

procure provisions and other necessaries,--very excellent directions,

all of which, however, were so many meaningless words after they had

left the government departments. Our age, which still has in mind the

Franklin expeditions--the English parallel--is able to form an idea of

these gigantic demands, and yet the Senate did not hesitate to load

the organization of all this upon the shoulders of one man. Bering was

made chief of all the enterprises east of the Ural Mountains. At the

Obi and the Lena, at Okhotsk and Kamchatka, he was to furnish ships,

provisions, and transportation.

But in spite of all that was vague and visionary in these plans,

they had nevertheless a certain homogeneity. They were all nautical

expeditions for nautical purposes and nautico-geographical

investigations. Then the Academy added its demands, making everything

doubly complicated. It demanded a scientific exploration of all

Siberia and Kamchatka,--not only an account of these regions based

on astronomical determinations and geodetic surveys, on minute

descriptions and artistically executed landscape pictures, on

barometric, thermometric, and aerometric observations, as well as

investigations in all the branches of natural history, but it demanded

also a detailed presentation of the ethnography, colonization,

and history of the country, together with a multitude of special

investigations in widely different directions. The leading spirits

in these enterprises were two young and zealous Germans, the chemist

Johann Georg Gmelin and the historian Gerhard Friedrich Müller,

twenty-eight and twenty-four years of age respectively, members of the

Academy, and later, highly respected scholars. Müller was a personal

friend of Bering, and through him got a desire to participate in the

expedition.

Kiriloff, the secretary of the Senate, himself a successful student of

geography, supported the efforts of the Academy, and most generously

gratified all the exaggerated demands that only imperious and

inexperienced devotees of science could present. Indeed, Bering could

not but finally consider himself fortunate in escaping a sub-expedition

to Central Asia, one of Kiriloff's pet plans, which the latter

afterwards took upon himself to carry out. The Academic branch of the

expedition, which thus came to consist of the astronomer La Croyère,

the physicist Gmelin (the elder), and the historian Müller, was right

luxuriously equipped. It was accompanied by two landscape painters,

one surgeon, one interpreter, one instrument-maker, five surveyors,

six scientific assistants, and fourteen body-guards. Moreover, this

convoy grew like an avalanche, as it worked its way into Siberia. La

Croyère had nine wagon-loads of instruments, among them telescopes

thirteen and fifteen feet in length. These Academical gentlemen had

at least thirty-six horses, and on the large rivers, they could

demand boats with cabins. They carried with them a library of several

hundred volumes, not only of scientific and historical works in their

specialties, but also of the Latin classics and such light reading

as Robinson Crusoe and Gulliver's Travels. Besides, they had seventy

reams of writing paper and an enormous supply of artists' colors,

draughting materials and apparatus. All archives were to be open to

them, all Siberian government authorities were to be at their service

and furnish interpreters, guides, and laborers. The Professors, as

they were called, constituted an itinerant academy. They drafted

their own instructions, and no superior authority took upon itself to

make these subservient to the interests of the expedition as a whole.

From February, 1734, they held one or two weekly meetings and passed

independent resolutions. It became a part of Bering's task to move

this cumbersome machine, this learned republic, from St. Petersburg

to Kamchatka, to care for their comforts and conveniences, and render

possible the flank movements and side sallies that either scientific

demands or their own freaks of will might dictate. In the original

instructions such directions were by no means few. But Bering had no

authority over these men. They were willing to recognize his authority

only when they needed his assistance. None of them except Bering and

his former associates had any idea of the mode and conditions of travel

in that barbarous country. That there should be lack of understanding

between men with such different objects in view as academists and

naval officers, is not very strange. Their only bond of union was the

Senate's senseless ukase. If it had been the purpose of the government

to exhibit a human parallel to the "happy families" of menageries, it

could hardly have acted differently. In all his movements Bering was

hampered by this academical deadweight. The Professors not only showed

a lack of appreciation of Bering's efforts in their behalf, but they

also stormed him with complaints, filled their records with them, and

concluded them--characteristically enough--with a resolution to prefer

formal charges against him before the Senate.

Only a new state, as the Russian then was, only a government that

recently had seen the will of one energetic man turn topsy-turvy a

whole people's mode of life, and yet had preserved a fanciful faith in

Peter the Great's teachings--his supreme disregard for obstacles,--only

such a government could even think of heaping such mountains of

enterprises one upon the other, or demand that any one man, and a

foreigner at that, should carry them into execution. Peter's spirit

undoubtedly hovered over these plans, but the marble sarcophagus in the

church of St. Peter and St. Paul had long since received his earthly

remains, and without his personal energy the Senate's plans were but

the projects of a dazzled fancy. On paper the Senate might indeed refer

Bering to various ways and means; it might enjoin upon the Siberian

authorities to do everything in their power to promote the progress of

the various expeditions; it might direct its secretaries to prepare

a very humane declamation denouncing the practice of any violence

against, or oppression of, the weak nomadic tribes in the East; but

it could not by a few pen-strokes increase the natural resources of

Siberia, or change the unwillingness of the local authorities to accede

to the inordinate demands which the nautical expedition necessarily

had to make, nor could it make roads in the wild forest-regions where

only the Yakut and Tunguse roamed about. The Senate's humanitarian

phrases were of but little significance to the explorers when it was

found necessary to compel the nomads of the East to supply what the

government had failed to furnish. The Senate had ventured so near the

extreme limits of the possible, that it could not but end by crossing

the border and demanding the impossible. These numerous expeditions,

scattered over half a continent, were exposed to so many unforeseeable

accidents and misfortunes, that the government, in order to render

support and retain its control, would necessarily have to be in regular

communication. But east of Moscow there was no mail service. Hence the

government instructed Bering to establish, on consultation with the

local authorities, postal communication, partly monthly and partly

bi-monthly, from Moscow to Kamchatka, to the Chinese border by way of

Irkutsk, and by a new route to Uda,--as though such a matter could

be accomplished through consultation. The Senate might have known,

and in fact did know, that in the mountainous forest-region between

Yakutsk and Okhotsk (a distance of about seven hundred miles) there

was but one single Russian hut, and that all the requisites for a mail

service--men, horses, and roads--demanded unlimited means and most

extensive preparations.

A number of plans and propositions of minor importance are here

omitted. The object has been to show, in a succinct review, the

origin of the Great Northern Expedition, its enormous compass, and

the grouping of its various enterprises about Vitus Bering as its

chief. Von Baer classes the tasks to be accomplished by Bering, each

of which demanded separately equipped expeditions, under seven heads:

namely, astronomical observations and determinations in Siberia,

physico-geographical explorations, historic-ethnographical studies,

the charting of the Arctic coast, the navigation of the East Siberian

coast, and the discovery of Japan and America. This writer adds that

no other geographical enterprise, not even the charting of China by

the Jesuits, Mackenzie's travels, or Franklin's expeditions, can in

greatness or sacrifice be compared with the gigantic undertakings that

were loaded upon Bering, and carried out by him.[51]

It would no doubt be wrong to ascribe the over-burdening of Bering's

plans to any one man, and for a foreign author, who but imperfectly

understands the Russian literature of that period, to do so, would be

more than foolish. Kiriloff, the secretary of the Senate, had great

zeal for geographical explorations, and did all in his power to further

the plans of Czar Peter. It has been proved that Bering's proposition

was presented after a conference with Kiriloff, and that as long as

he lived, he assisted Bering by word and deed. Furthermore, it seems

probable that, in order to promote the exploration of Siberia, he

prevented the Admiralty from sending Bering's expedition by sea south

of Africa. However, it is undoubtedly a fact that Bering's plan reached

its final proportions as a result of the discussions between Count

Ostermann, the influential courtier and statesman, (who evidently

landed in Russia in company with Bering in 1701), Soimonoff, an officer

of the Senate, Kiriloff, and Golovin, chief of the Admiralty, and these

men would hardly have consulted the opinions of Bering, who often and

most emphatically disapproved of the additions that had been made to

his plans. Moreover, as a result of the distrust which his first

expedition inspired in Russia, he was in an insecure and unfortunate

position. But he had reason to complain of other things. The gigantic

task assigned to him demanded a despotic will endowed with dictatorial

power. Bering lacked both, especially the latter.

The Senate exhausted itself in minute hints, directions, and

propositions, instead of issuing definite orders concerning the

necessary means. Unfortunately, too, numerous and exaggerated

complaints had been made in regard to the suffering which Bering's

first expedition had caused the Kamchatkans, and on this account

the government was foolish enough to bind the chief's hands, while

it simultaneously overloaded his shoulders. Through injudicious

instructions he was made dependent upon his subordinates. It was bad

enough that he was not to be permitted to take any decisive steps in

Siberia without first consulting and coming to an agreement with the

local authorities,--the governor of Tobolsk, the lieutenant-governor of

Irkutsk, and the voivode of Yakutsk. On account of the great distances

and the wretched roads such proceedings were well-nigh impossible. The

government should have known that these authorities only under the

most peremptory orders would comply with demands liable to exhaust

the resources of the country and ruin the thinly-populated and

poverty-stricken districts. This was, indeed, bad enough, but matters

were much aggravated when the Senate ordered him to take action in

all important questions, only after deliberation with his officers,

and to refer every loading measure to a commission. Such a method of

procedure seems to us entirely incomprehensible. But Sokoloff, who

was himself a Russian naval officer, says on this point, that the laws

of the empire, which at that time were in full force, required of

every superior officer that he should consult his subordinates before

inaugurating any new movement. In its instructions to Bering the Senate

expressly emphasized this decree of the law, and it actually went so

far as to order him, even in matters of comparative unimportance,

to seek the opinion of his Academical associates, and always act

in the strictest accordance with his Russian colleague Chirikoff's

propositions.

The chiefs of the different branches of the expedition were of course

subject to the same regulation. In this way Bering was deprived of a

sovereign chief's power and authority, and it afforded him but little

reparation that the government gave him the power to reduce or promote

an officer,--only naval officers, however. Necessary regard for the

needs of the service and for his own principles forbade him to use this

weapon in that arbitrary manner which alone could have neutralized the

unfortunate influence of the government laws. Hence this feature of his

instructions, besides causing much delay, became a source of the most

incredible troubles and aggravations, which, as we shall see later,

laid him in his grave on the bleak coasts of Bering Island.

Everything carefully considered, it could have surprised no one if

the Northern Expedition had collapsed in its very greatness, and it

was without any doubt due to Bering that this did not happen. In many

respects Bering was unqualified to lead such an expedition into a

barbarous country, surrounded as he was with incapable, uneducated, and

corruptible assistants, pestered by calumniators and secret or avowed

enemies in every quarter, to whom the government seemed more disposed

to listen than to him. More just than arbitrary, more considerate

than hasty, more humane than his position permitted, he nevertheless

had one important quality, an honest, genuine, and tenacious spirit

of perseverance, and this saved the expedition from dissolution. The

government had sent him in pursuit of a golden chariot, and he found

more than the linchpin. The realization, however, was far from that

anticipated by the government. Many of the projects of the original

plan were but partially accomplished, and others were not even

attempted; but in spite of this, the results attained by Bering and his

associates will stand as boundary-posts in the history of geographical

discovery. Many of these men sealed their work with their lives, and

added a luster to the name of Russia,[52] which later explorers have

maintained.

FOOTNOTES:

[48] Note 39.

[49] Note 40.

[50] H. H. Bancroft, Vol. XXXIII., p. 42, History of Alaska, San

Francisco, 1886, is in error when he states that this empress was

Elizabeth, the daughter of Peter the Great. Anna Ivanovna, a daughter

of Peter the Great's half-brother Ivan, was at this time on the throne.

She reigned from 1730 to 1740. Elizabeth Petrovna did not become

empress until 1741.--TR.

[51] H. H. Bancroft, History of Alaska, p. 42, says: "The second

Kamchatka expedition ... was the most brilliant effort toward

scientific discovery which unto this time had been made by any

government."--TR.

[52] Note 41.

CHAPTER IX.

THE GREAT NORTHERN EXPEDITION ON ITS WAY THROUGH

SIBERIA.--DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS ENCOUNTERED AND OVERCOME.

In the early part of the year 1733, the expedition began to leave St.

Petersburg by detachments. It consisted of the chief Vitus Bering

(his Russian name was Ivan Ivanovich Bering), Captains Spangberg and

Chirikoff, eight lieutenants, sixteen mates, twelve physicians, seven

priests, skippers, stewards, various apprentices, ship-carpenters,

other workmen, soldiers and sailors,--in all about five hundred

and seventy men. Of these, three officers and one hundred and

fifty-seven men--a number which was greatly increased in Siberia--were

assigned duty in the Arctic expedition, the remainder in the Pacific

expeditions. In this estimate, the Academists, constituting an

expedition of thirty or forty men, are not considered. The list of

names of those engaged in these expeditions throws interesting light

on Russian social relations of that period. Over half of the officers,

many mates, and all of the physicians were foreigners. The Senate

sought to inspire the zeal of the officers by large increase of salary

and promotion in rank and service after a successfully completed

expedition, but the rank and file were to be forced to a performance

of their duties by threats of cruel punishments and a continued

stay in Siberia. It had been the intention to recruit the expedition

through the voluntary service of Russians, but the native officers

showed but little inclination in this direction, and it was found

necessary to fill the vacancies by draft. Van Haven assures us that

Bering's expedition was looked upon in St. Petersburg as a mild sort of

banishment.

The necessary instruments and some provisions were obtained in

St. Petersburg. The naval officers were supplied with quadrants,

thermometers, and nocturnals, the surveyors with astrolabes and

Gunter's-chains, and the Academists were authorized to take from the

library of the Academy all the works they needed, and, at the expense

of the crown, to purchase such as the library did not contain. La

Croyère carried with him a whole magazine of instruments. For presents

to the natives two thousand rubles were appropriated. In N. Novgorod

and Kazan some other necessaries were obtained, but the enormous

ship-supplies and provisions, besides men, horses, barges and other

river boats, were to be provided by the Siberian towns and country

districts.

The Siberian authorities received orders to make great preparations.

They were to buy venison, fish, and cod liver oil, erect light-houses

and magazines along the Arctic coast, and dispatch commissions with

large transports to the Pacific coast, so as to enable Bering to begin

his work of discovery without delay. These preparations were to be

followed by efforts toward the founding of various works, such as iron

and salt works at Okhotsk, a smaller furnace at Yakutsk for the use

of the expedition, and, through the utilization of the saccharine

qualities of the "bear's claw,"[53] a distillery was also to be

established on the peninsula of Kamchatka. It is unnecessary to say

that all of these propositions were buried in the Siberian government

departments.

Calculations were made for a six years' expedition. The leaders of each

branch of the expedition were authorized to repeat any unsuccessful

adventure the succeeding summer. All were prepared for a long stay in

the extreme northeast--many, indeed, remained there forever--hence,

most of the officers, among them Bering and Spangberg, were accompanied

by their wives and children. On this account the expedition seemed more

than ever a national migration on a small scale.

The first start was made February 1, 1733. Spangberg, with some

laborers and the heaviest marine stores, went directly to Okhotsk to

expedite the ship-building on the Pacific coast. Lieutenant Ofzyn

went to Kazan to collect supplies. Bering started out March 18, in

order as quickly as possible to reach Tobolsk, whence the first Arctic

expedition was to be sent out. In the course of the summer, the

larger caravans arrived at this place. Simultaneously heavy supplies

were brought in from West Siberia by Bering's men. Here, also, the

construction of the vessel for the expedition, the shallop Tobol, was

begun. Only the Academists were yet in St. Petersburg, where they were

receiving the attention of the official world. At an audience, the

Empress bade them farewell in the most solemn manner. She allowed them

to kiss her hand, and assured them of her most gracious favor. On the

succeeding day, the other members of the imperial family manifested

similar sympathy. Then, however, the difficulties began. That these

heavily-laden gentlemen could not even in St. Petersburg secure

adequate means of transportation, makes quite a comical impression. On

this account they were detained until late in August, and they would no

doubt have been unable to reach Siberia in 1733, if Bering had not left

for them in Tver a conveniently equipped vessel, which carried them

the same autumn down the Volga to Kazan. They did not reach Tobolsk,

however, until January, 1734. Bering, who was to be supplied by them

with surveyors and instruments for his Arctic expedition, and who could

not, before their arrival, form an estimate of the size of his river

transports to be used in the spring, was obliged repeatedly and very

forcibly to urge them to make haste. Here the disagreements began,

and were continued concerning petty affairs, which history finds it

unnecessary to dwell upon.

On May 2, 1734, the Tobol was launched amid the firing of cannon, the

blare of trumpets, and the merry draining of goblets. The vessel had

a keel of 70 feet, was 15 feet wide, and 7 feet deep. It carried two

masts, some small cannon, and a crew of 56 men, among them first mate

Sterlegoff and two cartographers, under the command of Lieut. Ofzyn. As

the provincial government had secured neither magazines nor provisions,

nor attended to any other preparations on the Arctic coast, the

necessary supplies, which were to be stored north of Obdorsk, were

loaded on four rafts, which, with a force of 30 men, accompanied Ofzyn.

On May 14, he received his Admiralty instructions from Bering, and,

saluted by cannon, the _First Arctic Expedition_ stood up the Irtish

for the Polar seas.

Five days later, Bering, with the main command and the Academists, left

Tobolsk and took different routes for Yakutsk, which had been selected

as the central point for the future enterprises of the expedition. In

October, 1734, he arrived at this place, bringing with him a quantity

of materials. The next spring, Chirikoff came with the greater part of

the supplies, and during the year following, this dull Siberian city

was the scene of no little activity. On his arrival, however, Bering

found that no preparations whatever had been made for him. In spite

of instructions and orders from the government, nothing had been done

toward charting the Arctic coast or for the expediting of the heavily

loaded transports on the way to Okhotsk. Nor did Bering find that the

authorities were even kindly disposed toward him. Yet, in the course

of the next six months, he had two large ships built for the Arctic

expedition, and when his own supplies arrived by way of the central

Siberian river-route, described in the first part of this work, these

vessels, together with four barges, were equipped and furnished with

provisions, and in June, 1735, were ready for a start. These two

ships--the sloop Yakutsk, Lieut. Pronchisheff, first mate Chelyuskin,

surveyor Chekin, and about fifty men, and the decked boat Irkutsk,

Lieut. Peter Lassenius, with a surveyor, first mate, and also about

fifty men--had most difficult tasks to accomplish. The former was to

cruise from the mouth of the Lena, along the whole coast of the Taimyr

peninsula, and enter the mouth of the Yenisei. The latter was to follow

the Arctic coast in an easterly direction to the Bering peninsula,

cruise along its coast, and ascertain the relative positions of Asia

and America, and, if it was a geographical possibility, to sail down

to the peninsula of Kamchatka. He also had instructions to find the

islands off the mouth of the Kolyma (the Bear Islands). From this it

is evident that Lassenius's expedition was of the greater geographical

interest. Moreover, it had to do with one of the main questions of

Bering's whole activity--the discovery and charting of the North

Pacific--and hence it is not a mere accident that Bering selected for

this expedition one of his own countrymen, or that he assigned the

charting of northeastern Asia and the discovery of America and Japan,

to chiefs of Danish birth, Lassenius and Spangberg. Nothing is known of

the earlier life of Lassenius. In service he was the oldest of Bering's

lieutenants. Shortly before the departure of the expedition, he was

taken into the Russian fleet, and Gmelin says of him, that he was an

able and experienced naval officer, volunteered his services to the

expedition, and began his work with intrepidity. All attempts to trace

his birth and family relations have proved fruitless.

On the 30th of June, 1735, both expeditions left Yakutsk, and thus the

charting of the whole of the Arctic coast of Siberia was planned and

inaugurated by Bering himself. He could now apply all his energies to

the Pacific expeditions. He constructed a multitude of river-craft,

and erected barracks, magazines, winter-huts, and wharves along the

river-route to Okhotsk. In the vicinity of Yakutsk he established an

iron foundry and furnace, whence the various vessels were supplied

with anchors and other articles of iron. In fact, he made this place

the emporium for those heavy supplies that in the years 1735-36 were

brought from South and West Siberia, and which later were to be sent to

Okhotsk.

At Okhotsk the exiled Major-General Pissarjeff was in command. He had

been sent there as a government official, with authority on the Pacific

coast and in Kamchatka, to develop the country and pave the way for the

expeditions to follow, by making roads and harbors, erecting buildings

in Okhotsk, introducing agriculture,--in fact, make this coast fit for

human habitation. The government had given him ample power, but as he

accomplished nothing, he was succeeded by Captain Pavlutski as chief

in Kamchatka, and Pissarjeff was reduced to a sort of harbor-master in

Okhotsk. A command that had been sent to his assistance under first

mate Bireff, he nearly starved to death; the men deserted and the town

remained the same rookery as ever.

In this condition Spangberg found affairs in the winter of 1734-35.

With his usual energy he had pushed his transports to Yakutsk in

the summer preceding, and with the same boats he proceeded up the

Aldan and Maya, but winter came on and his boats were frozen in on

the Yudoma. He started out on foot by the familiar route across the

Stanovoi Mountains to Okhotsk, which place he reached after enduring

great hardship and suffering; but even here he found no roof for

shelter. He was forced to subsist on carcasses and roots, and not

until the spring fishing began and a provision caravan sent by Bering

arrived, did he escape this dire distress. In the early summer,

Pissarjeff put in an appearance, and very soon a bitter and fatal

enmity arose between these two men.

Spangberg was born in Jerne near Esbjerg in Jutland (Denmark), probably

about the year 1698. He was the son of well-to-do parents of the middle

class. In the Jerne churchyard there is still to be seen a beautiful

monument on the grave of his brother, the "estimable and well-born

Chr. Spangberg," nothing else is known of his early life. In 1720, he

entered the Russian fleet as a lieutenant of the fourth rank, and for

a time ran the packet-boat between Kronstadt and Lübeck, whereupon he

took part in Bering's first expedition as second in command. In 1732,

for meritorious service on this expedition, he was made a captain

of the third rank. He was an able, shrewd, and energetic man, a

practical seaman, active and vehement, inconsiderate of the feelings

of others, tyrannical and avaricious. He spoke the Russian language

only imperfectly. His fame preceded him throughout all Siberia, and

Sokoloff says that many thought him some general, _incognito_, others

an escaped convict. The natives of Siberia feared him and called him

Martin Petrovich Kosar, or in ironical praise, "Batushka" (old fellow).

He had many enemies. Complaints and accusations were showered upon

him, but it would most certainly be wrong to ascribe to them any great

significance. Siberia is the land of slander. All Russian officials

were corruptible, and the honest men among those who stood nearest to

Peter himself could literally be counted on one's fingers. While in

Siberia, Spangberg is said to have acquired the possession of many

horses, valuable furs, and other goods of which the authorities had

forced the sale. When the Senate, after his great voyage of discovery

to Japan, had treated him unjustly, he left Siberia arbitrarily in

1745, and, without leave of absence, set out for St. Petersburg, where

he was summoned before a court-martial and condemned to death; but this

was finally commuted to his being reduced to a lieutenant for three

months. He remained in the service and died, in 1761, as a captain of

the first rank. In Okhotsk he was accompanied by his wife and son.[54]

But his opponent was a still more remarkable man. Major-General

Pissarjeff had been a favorite of Peter the Great, director of the

military academy, and a high officer of the Senate. He had received

a careful education abroad, and moved in the very highest circles of

society. In a quarrel with Vice-Chancellor Shafiroff, in 1722, however,

he had incurred Peter's wrath, whereupon he was for a time deprived

of all official rank and banished to the Ladoga canal as overseer of

this great enterprise. Later he was pardoned, but when, in 1727, he

conspired against Prince Menshikoff, he was deprived of everything,

knouted, branded, and then exiled to Siberia as a colonist. After a

series of vicissitudes he appeared, in the capacity of harbor-master at

Okhotsk, but the government gave him no rank; he was not even permitted

to cover his brand. This old man, made vicious by a long and unjust

banishment, became Bering's evil spirit. In spite of his sixty or

seventy years, he was as restless, fiery and vehement in both speech

and action as when a youth, dissolute, corruptible, and slanderous--a

false and malicious babbler, a full-fledged representative of the

famous Siberian "school for scandal." For six long years he persecuted

the expedition with his hatred and falsehoods, and was several times

within an ace of overthrowing everything. He lived in a stockaded fort

a few miles in the country, while Spangberg's quarters were down by

the sea, on the so-called Kushka, a strip of land in the Okhota delta,

where the town was to be founded. The power of each was unrestrained.

Both were dare-devils who demanded an obedience which foretold the

speedy overthrow of each. Both sought to maintain their authority

through imprisonment and corporal punishment. Thus they wrangled for

a year, Pissarjeff, meanwhile, sending numerous complaints to Yakutsk

and St. Petersburg. But Spangberg was not to be trifled with. In the

fall of 1736 he swore that he would effectually rid himself of "the

old scoundrel," who thereupon in all haste fled to Yakutsk, where he

arrived after a nine days' ride, and filled the town with his prattling

falsehoods, to which, however, only the Academists seem to have paid

any attention.

Under circumstances where the local authorities did everything in their

power to hinder the development of a district, it is only natural that

in the settlement of Okhotsk and the construction of the ships for

the expedition but slow progress was made. The enormous stores which

were necessary for six or eight sea-going ships--provisions, cannon,

powder, cables, hemp, canvas, etc., it would take two or three years

to bring from Yakutsk, a distance both long and tedious, and fraught

with danger. The work, the superhuman efforts, the forethought, and

perseverance that Bering and his men exhibited on these transporting

expeditions on the rivers of East Siberia have never been described or

understood, and yet they perhaps form the climax in the events of this

expedition, every page of the history of which tells of suffering and

thankless toil.

In the middle of the 17th century, those Cossacks that conquered

the Amoor country had opened this river navigation, and now Bering

re-opened it. The stores were transported down the Lena, up the Aldan,

Maya, and Yudoma rivers, thence across the Stanovoi Mountains, down the

Urak, and by sea to Okhotsk. These transportations at first employed

five hundred soldiers and exiles, and later more than a thousand. The

season is very short. The rivers break up in the early part of May,

when the spring floods, full of devastating drift-ice, rise twenty or

thirty feet above the average level and sweep along in their course

whole islands, thus filling the river-bed with trunks of trees and

sand, deluging the wild rock-encircled valleys, so that navigation

can not begin until the latter part of May, again to be obstructed in

August by ice. The course was against the current, so the crew had

to walk along the rough and slippery banks and tug the flat-bottomed

barges up stream. In this way they were usually able, during the first

summer, to reach the junction of the Maya and the Aldan (Ust Maiskaya),

where Bering built a pier and a number of magazines, barracks, and

winter-huts. Then the next summer, the journey would be continued

up the Maya and into the Yudoma, which boils along through an open

mountain valley over rocks, stones, and water-logged tree trunks. It

has but two or three feet of water, is full of sand-banks, with a

waterfall here and there and long rapids and eddies,--the so-called

"schiver." In such places the current was so strong that thirty men

were scarcely able to tug a boat against it. Standing in water to

their waists, the men were, so to speak, obliged to carry the barges.

The water was very cauterizing, and covered their legs and feet with

boils and sores. The oppressive heat of the day was followed by nights

that were biting cold, and when new ice was formed, their sufferings

were superhuman. In this manner Yudomskaya Krest (Yudoma's Cross) was

reached in August of the second year. This place, where since the

days of the Cossack expedition a cross had stood, Bering made an

intermediate station for the expedition. Here were the dwellings of two

officers, a barrack, two earth-huts, six warehouses, and a few other

buildings and winter-huts. In these warehouses the goods were stored,

to be conveyed, in the following winter, on horseback across the

Stanovoi Mountains to the mountain stream Urak, which, after a course

of two hundred versts, reaches the sea three miles south of Okhotsk.

For this part of the expedition, new winter-huts on the Stanovoi

Mountains, and magazines, river boats, and piers on the Urak had to be

built. This river is navigable only for a few days after the spring

thaw. Then it boils along at the rate of six miles an hour, often

making a trip down its course a dangerous one. Losseff says that in

this way, other things being favorable, Okhotsk was reached in three

years. The brief account which has here been attempted gives but a

faint idea of the labor, perseverance, and endurance requisite to make

one of these expeditions. Barges and boats had to be built at three

different places, roads had to be made along rivers, over mountains,

and through forests, and piers, bridges, storehouses, winter-huts and

dwellings had to be constructed at these various places. Not only

this. They suffered many misfortunes. Boats and barges were lost, men

and beasts of burden were drowned, deserted, or were torn to pieces

by wolves,--and all these difficulties Bering and his assistants

overcame through their own activity, without the support of the

Siberian government, yes, in spite of its ill will, both concealed and

manifest. In 1737, he reported to the Admiralty: "Prior to our arrival

at Yakutsk not a pood[55] of provisions had been brought to Okhotsk

for us, nor had a single boat been built for the transportation. Nor

did we find workmen or magazines at the landing places on the Maya

and Yudoma rivers. The Siberian authorities have not taken a single

step toward complying with the ukases issued by Her Royal Highness."

And with justifiable self-esteem he adds: "We did all this. We built

transports, we obtained workmen in Yakutsk, we conveyed our provisions

to Yudomskaya Krest, and with superhuman efforts thence to the sea. At

the mouths of the Maya and Yudoma, at the Cross, and at the Urak we

erected storehouses and dwellings, in the Stanovoi Mountains several

winter-huts, and on the Urak no less than seventy river boats, which

have, in part, started for Okhotsk with provisions. Not until after

the lapse of two years have I been able to induce the authorities in

Yakutsk to appoint superintendents of transportation, and for this

reason it was entirely impossible for me to depart for Okhotsk, unless

I wanted to see the work of the whole expedition come to a complete

standstill, bring upon my men the direst need, and force the whole

enterprise into most ignominious ruin."

FOOTNOTES:

[53] Note 7.

[54] Note 42.

[55] A pood is thirty-six pounds.

CHAPTER X.

DELAY OF THE EXPEDITION CAUSED BY THE DEATH OF LASSENIUS AND HIS

COMMAND IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS.--DISSATISFACTION OF THE SENATE AND

ADMIRALTY WITH BERING'S WORK.

The difficulties recounted in the preceding chapter are alone

sufficient to justify Bering's nearly three years' stay in Yakutsk; but

simultaneously many other duties demanded his attention. It does not

come within the scope of this treatise to describe the investigations

of the Academical branch of this enterprise,--to portray Müller's

and Gmelin's services to botany, history, and geography; they are of

interest here only in their relation to Bering. Especially in Yakutsk

did those men give him much to attend to. It devolved upon him now

to convey those gentlemen, in a manner fitting their station, up or

down the Lena, now to send La Croyère to Lake Baikal or to the Arctic

Ocean,--all of which was to be done in a country principally inhabited

by nomadic tribes, with only here and there a Russian population

where there were government officials, and with no other means of

transportation than those secured for the occasion. In Yakutsk, where

the Professors stayed a long time, their relations with Bering were

very much strained, principally, it would seem, on account of their

exorbitant demands for convenience and luxury. Since Bering would

not and could not take upon himself to transport them to Kamchatka

as comfortably as he had thus far conveyed them, especially not from

Okhotsk, in private and conveniently equipped vessels, and since the

Voivode likewise gave them but little hope of support, both Gmelin and

Müller made application for a release from the expedition, and left to

Krasheninnikoff and Steller their principal task--the description of

Kamchatka.

In the year 1736, moreover, very discouraging news was received from

the Arctic seas. Pronchisheff had been obliged to go into winter

quarters at Olenek, and Lassenius, who, August 2, had reached the rocky

islet Stolb, in the Lena delta, and on the 7th stood out of the mouth

of the Bykoff eastward, was driven by storm and ice into the river

Khariulakh, east of the Borkhaya Bay, where he wintered, in a latitude

of 71° 28'. The place was uninhabited, and he built from driftwood

a winter-house 66 feet long, making four apartments, with three

fireplaces, and a separate kitchen and bath-room. As Lassenius hoped to

be able to continue the expedition during the two succeeding summers,

the rations were made considerably smaller.

November 6, the polar night began, and shortly afterwards nearly the

whole crew were attacked by a deadly scurvy, so violent that perhaps

only Jens Munk[56] and his fellow-sufferers on the Churchill River have

experienced anything worse. On the 19th of December Lassenius died, and

in the few succeeding months nearly all of his officers and thirty-one

of the crew, so that when assistance from Bering arrived, only eight

men were alive. Müller and Gmelin say that the crew accused Lassenius

of high treason, and mutinied; but there is no documentary evidence of

this. The report seems to have arisen through a confounding of the name

of Lassenius with that of the deputy constable Rosselius, who, on the

18th of November, 1735, was sent, under arrest, to Yakutsk. To fill

the vacancies caused by this terrible disease, Bering had to send a

whole new command--Lieut. Dmitri Laptjef, the second mate Plauting, and

forty-three men--to Khariulakh to continue the expedition. In addition

to this, two boats with provisions were sent to the mouth of the Lena,

and in 1737, before he himself departed for Okhotsk, a shipload of

provisions was sent to supply the magazines on the Arctic coast. To

these various tasks Bering gave his personal attention.

In 1736-38 this great enterprise passed through a dangerous crisis.

Several years had elapsed since the departure from St. Petersburg,

three hundred thousand rubles (over two hundred thousand dollars) had

been expended--an enormous sum at that time--and yet Bering could

not point to a single result. Lassenius was dead, his successor, D.

Laptjef, had been unfortunate, Pronchisheff had, in two summers of

cruising, not been able to double the Taimyr peninsula, Ofzyn was

struggling in vain in the Gulf of Obi, while Bering and Spangberg had

not begun their Pacific expeditions. The former had not even reached

the coast. The government authorities at St. Petersburg were in the

highest degree dissatisfied with this seeming dilatoriness. The Senate

sent a most earnest appeal to the Admiralty to recall the expedition.

Here was a situation that Bering's enemies thought favorable for

their intrigues. The departments of the Admiralty were deluged with

complaints and accusations. The Siberian authorities, of whom Bering

so justly had complained, answered with counter-charges. He was not

familiar with the country, they said; he made unreasonable demands,

and did not know how to avail himself of means at hand. Pissarjeff

told the government that Bering and Spangberg had undertaken this

expedition into Siberia simply to fill their own pockets,--that they

accepted bribes, carried on a contraband liquor traffic, and had

already accumulated great wealth. The exiled naval officer, Kasanssoff,

reported that there was entire lack of system in the enterprise; that

everything was done at an enormous expenditure, and that nothing at

all would be accomplished. Lieutenant Plauting, one of Bering's own

officers, who had been reduced for neglect of duty, accused Bering of

being arbitrary, extravagant, and fond of show at the expense of the

government. He accused him, furthermore, of embezzlement on his first

expedition, in 1725, and alleged that Bering's wife had returned to

Russia with a fortune, and had in Yakutsk abducted two young women.[57]

History has not confirmed a single one of these charges. As for

sacrifice, disinterestedness, and zeal, Bering not only rises far

above his surroundings--which is, perhaps, not saying very much--but

his character is clean and unsullied. Even so petty a person as

Sokoloff, who, in other respects, does not spare him, has for his

character unqualified praise. Nevertheless, all of these complaints

and accusations caused Bering much trouble and vexation. The Admiralty,

hard pressed by the Senate, found it difficult to furnish the

necessary means for the continuation of the expedition, and treated

Bering severely and unreasonably. It lacked the view which personal

examination gives. It was beset with deceitfulness and circumvention,

and its experiences led it to take the worst for granted. Hence, it

sent Bering one message after the other reprehensive of his course.

It threatened to fine him, to court-martial him, to reduce him, and,

in 1737, it even went so far as to deprive him of his supplemental

salary, which was withheld several years.[58] Bering defended himself

with the bitterness of despair. In his reports he gave the most solemn

assurances of his perseverance and fidelity to duty, and the most

detailed accounts of all difficulties. He declared upon his honor that

he was unable to see any other means or resources than those he had

resorted to. He even appealed at last to the testimony of the chiefs of

the various expeditions and all the subordinate officers. He was not

believed. The Admiralty showed its lack of tact by letting Chirikoff

investigate a series of charges against him. Furthermore, in spite of

Bering's most urgent representations, Pissarjeff continued to retain

his position in Okhotsk; and, although the government threatened the

Siberian authorities with the sternest punishments, still the latter

only very inactively participated in the work of the expedition.

Sokoloff gives a very repulsive picture of Bering's assistants. On

account of the discomforts of the journey in this barbaric country,

and under the pressure of ceaseless toil, a large number of the

subordinates fell to drinking and committing petty thefts; and the

officers, gathered as they were from all quarters of the world, are

described as a band of gruff and unruly brawlers. They were always at

sword's points. Pronchisheff and Lassenius, Chirikoff and Spangberg,

the latter and Walton, Plauting, Waxel, Petroff and Endoguroff,

were constantly wrangling, and at times most shameful scenes were

enacted. Our Russian author is not adverse to giving Bering the

principal blame for these dissensions which cast a gloom on this

worthy undertaking and impaired the forces of the expedition. He

repeatedly, and with much force, accuses him of being weak, and in

the Imperial Marine this opinion seems yet to prevail.[59] Sokoloff

says: "Bering was a well-informed man, eager for knowledge, pious,

kind-hearted, and honest, but altogether too cautious and indecisive;

zealous, persevering, and yet not sufficiently energetic; well liked

by his subordinates, yet without sufficient influence over them,--too

much inclined to allow himself to be affected by their opinions and

desires, and not able to maintain strict discipline. Hence, he was not

particularly well qualified to lead this great enterprise, especially

in such a dark century and in such a barbaric country as East Siberia."

I do not doubt that we here find some of the elements of Bering's

character, but Sokoloff was much more of an archivist than historian

and student of human nature. In his long accounts he never succeeds, by

means of describing any action or situation, in giving a psychological

insight into Bering's character, and, as matters now stand, it is

impossible to draw any tenable line between the errors and delays that

were necessarily attendant upon such an over-burdened enterprise, and

those that were due to the possible inefficiency of the leader. By the

authority of the Senate the expedition was not a monarchical unit under

Bering, but a democratic association under an administrative chief. It

is not difficult to collect from the literature of that day a series of

expressions which accuse Bering of cruelty, imperiousness, and military

arrogance. Of a hundred leaders in Bering's position ninety-nine would

undoubtedly have thought it wise to leave the whole expedition. Steller

has with far more delicacy and skill drawn the main lines of his mental

physiognomy. "Bering was," he says, "a true and honest Christian,

noble, kind, and unassuming in conduct, universally loved by his

subordinates, high as well as low. Every reasonable person must admit

that he always sought to perform the work entrusted to him to the best

of his ability, although he himself confessed and often regretted that

his strength was no longer sufficient for so difficult an expedition.

He deplored the fact that the plans for the expedition had been made

on a much larger and more extensive scale than he had proposed, and he

expressed a desire that, on account of his age, he might be released

from this duty and have the task assigned to some young and active

Russian. As is well known, he was not naturally a man of quick resolve,

but when one considers his fidelity to duty, his cheerful spirit

of perseverance and careful deliberation, it is a question whether

another, possessed of more fire and ardor, could have overcome the

innumerable difficulties of the expedition without having completely

ruined those distant regions; for even Bering, far removed from all

selfishness, was scarcely able in this regard to keep his men in check.

The only fault of which the brave man can be accused, is that his

too great leniency was as detrimental as the spirited and oftentimes

inconsiderate conduct of his subordinates." It is undoubtedly true that

Bering was not fully equal to the task; but no one would have been

equal to this task. It is possible that his humane conduct impaired

the work of the expedition, but this allegation still lacks proof, and

Sokoloff, who wrote his book as a vindication of Chirikoff against Von

Baer's sympathetic view of Bering, must be read with this reservation.

It is downright absurd to hold the leader responsible for the moral

weaknesses of his officers, for he had not chosen them, and was as

dependent upon them as they upon him. "It seems to me," says Von Baer,

"that Bering has everywhere acted with the greatest circumspection and

energy, and also with the greatest forbearance. The whole expedition

was planned on such a monstrous scale that under many another chief it

would have foundered without having accomplished any results whatever."

FOOTNOTES:

[56] Munk was sent out by the Danish government in 1619 to search for a

Northwest passage.--TR.

[57] Note 43.

[58] Note 44.

[59] Note 45.

CHAPTER XI.

FINAL PREPARATIONS FOR THE PACIFIC EXPEDITIONS.

In the summer of 1737, Bering changed his headquarters to Okhotsk, and

in the course of the autumn and winter, the greater part of his force

was transferred to the same place or distributed among the various

intermediate stations on the Yudoma, Maya, and Urak. Spangberg and

Bering built Okhotsk. At the junction of the Okhota and the Kukhta, on

one of the narrow deltas, the so-called Kushka, they erected a church

for the expedition, a number of houses for the officers, barracks,

magazines, a large dock-yard, and other buildings. The old stockaded

fort, four miles farther up in the country, was deserted. Around the

military center of the expedition the town gradually formed and rapidly

grew to become the Russian metropolis on the Pacific. It cost very

great exertions to make the place inhabitable. The site was a long

sand-bank deposit, threatened by inundations. The climate was very

unhealthy,--a cold, raw fog almost continually hung over this region.

The party was pestered with fevers, and in this swamp it was that

Bering lost his health. "The place is new and desolate," he writes.

"We have sand and pebbles, no vegetation whatever, and no timber in

the vicinity. Firewood must be obtained at a distance of four to five

miles, drinking water one to two miles, while timber and joints for

ship-building must be floated down the river twenty-five miles." But

as a place for a dock-yard, as a harbor and haven of refuge for large

ships, the location had such great advantages that these difficulties

had to be overcome.

Spangberg's work had made the place. His men had worked clay, made

tiles, and built houses, and when Bering arrived the ships Archangel

Michael and Hope lay fully equipped in the harbor. Bering's old ships

Fortuna and Gabriel had been repaired, and Spangberg lacked only an

adequate supply of provisions to begin his expedition to Japan in the

autumn of 1737.

But the provision transports, as usual, moved on very slowly and

with great difficulty. In Okhotsk Spangberg's men were constantly in

distress. They received only the rations of flour and rice authorized

by law, and at long intervals some beef which Bering had bought in

Yakutsk. On account of this scarcity of provisions Spangberg was

obliged partially to stop work on the vessels. A part of his force was

permitted to go a-fishing, a part were sent to the magazines in the

country for their maintenance, while others were detached to assist

in the work of transportation; hence it was with only a small force

that he could continue work on the ships for the American voyage, the

packet-boats St. Peter and St. Paul.

Sokoloff says: "Bering stayed three years in Okhotsk, exerting himself

to the utmost in equipping expeditions, enduring continual vexations

from the Siberian government--especially on account of Pissarjeff--and

conducting frequent examinations and investigations into the quarrels

and complaints of his subordinates. During all this time he was sternly

and unreasonably treated by the Admiralty, which showered upon him

threats and reproaches for slowness sluggishness, and disorder, for

false reports and ill-timed accounts." Even as late as 1740 the Senate

made a proposition to discontinue the expedition, and only by calling

attention to the enormous expenditures already made, which would in

that case be completely wasted, was the Admiralty allowed to continue

it. Bering was especially disheartened on account of Pissarjeff. The

latter arrived at Okhotsk at the same time that Bering did, took up

his abode in the old Ostrog (fort) and immediately began his malicious

annoyances. His complaints and protests poured into headquarters at

Okhotsk. "For a correspondence with him alone," writes Bering, "I might

use three good secretaries. I find his foul-tongued criticism extremely

offensive." He would capture Bering's men to give them a drubbing,

while his own deserted him to join Bering, by whom they were kindly

received. The new town and the Ostrog were two hostile camps. Finally

Bering was compelled to make a sally to liberate his men. The intrepid

Spangberg, entirely out of patience with Bering's leniency, said: "Why

do you give yourself so much trouble about this old knave? Give me four

men and the authority and I shall immediately put him under arrest."

Finally, in 1738, Spangberg found it possible to depart for Japan, and

in two summer expeditions he charted the Kurile Islands, Yezo, and a

part of the eastern coast of Nipon (Hondo), whereupon the cartography

of this part of the globe assumed an entirely new appearance.

The expeditions to Japan, which employed four ships and several hundred

men, had exhausted the provisions in Okhotsk. It was again necessary

to raise large supplies in West Siberia. A demand was made upon the

government office in Tobolsk for 40,000 rubles. From the district of

Verkhoiansk 50,000 poods of provisions, while in part from West Siberia

and in part from the Admiralty 20,000 yards of cloth were received.

From other very distant places oil, hemp, and other necessaries were

obtained. The Admiralty despatched to Irkutsk and Yakutsk two naval

officers, Lieutenants Tolbukhin and Larionoff, to superintend the

transportation of these goods. The number of laborers was increased to

a thousand, the roads were improved, more attendants were provided, the

Siberian authorities exhibited more energy than before, new river-boats

were constructed, and pack-horses were collected from a large radius

of country; by these increased means it was possible to collect all

necessaries in Okhotsk by 1740. In the month of June the ships for the

American expedition, the St. Peter and the St. Paul, were launched.

They were two-masters, 80 feet long, 22 feet wide, and 9-1/2 feet deep,

rigged as brigs, each of 108 tons burden, carrying 14 two and three

pound guns.

In the harbor and on the Sea of Okhotsk there was now quite a

respectable fleet of eight or nine ships, all built by Bering. The

Arctic coasts had been charted through his efforts. Spangberg had with

great success completed his task, and had been sent by Bering to St.

Petersburg to render a report. Bering's own force, which consisted

of 166 men, besides 80 engaged in transporting, was now collected in

Okhotsk. The astronomical department under La Croyère and the scientist

Steller also arrived, and finally Bering had the satisfaction of seeing

his worst enemy removed. In August, 1740, Pissarjeff was discharged,

and poor Antoni Devier, first a cabin boy, then successively

aid-de-camp, general, and chief of police in St. Petersburg--one of

Peter the Great's most trusted companions in arms, but banished through

the hatred of Menshikoff--became his successor as harbor-master in

Okhotsk.[60]

In the middle of August the packet-boats, the galley Okhotsk, and

a double sloop containing the scientists were ready to sail for

Kamchatka. Then Spangberg quite unexpectedly arrived. On his way home

he had received a counter order. The authorities in St. Petersburg

commanded him to repeat the expedition to Japan. This gave Bering

some extra work in the way of letters and orders, so that the vessels

under Bering's and Chirikoff's commands did not leave port until

the 8th of September. They were supplied with provisions for twenty

months, and their temporary destination was Avacha Bay on the east

coast of Kamchatka, where they were to pass the winter. All the great

enterprises which the government had instructed Bering to undertake

had now been begun. In the following chapters will be found a succinct

account of the results of each.

FOOTNOTES:

[60] Note 46.

PART III.

THE VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS.

Vitus Bering: the Discoverer of Bering Strait · 第 1 / 9 章