fine clothes than the women of any other country whatsoever. I cannot
fancy that a shopkeeper’s wife in Cheapside has a greater tenderness
for the fortune of her husband, than a citizen’s wife in Paris; or
that miss in a boarding-school is more an economist in dress than
mademoiselle in a nunnery.
Although Paris may be accounted the soil in which almost every fashion
takes its rise, its influence is never so general there as with us.
They study there the happy method of uniting grace and fashion, and
never excuse a woman for being awkwardly dressed, by saying her clothes
are in the mode. A Frenchwoman is a perfect architect in dress; she
never, with Gothic ignorance, mixes the orders; she never tricks out
a squabby Doric shape with Corinthian finery; or, to speak without
metaphor, she conforms to general fashion only when it happens not to
be repugnant to private beauty.
The English ladies, on the contrary, seem to have no other standard
of grace but the run of the town. If fashion gives the word, every
distinction of beauty, complexion, of stature, ceases. Sweeping trains,
Prussian bonnets, and trollopees, as like each other as if cut from
the same piece, level all to one standard. The Mall, the gardens,
and playhouses, are filled with ladies in uniform; and their whole
appearance shows as little variety of taste as if their clothes were
bespoke by the colonel of a marching regiment, or fancied by the artist
who dresses the three battalions of guards.
But not only the ladies of every shape and complexion, but of every
age too, are possessed of this unaccountable passion for levelling
all distinction in dress. The lady of no quality travels first behind
the lady of some quality; and a woman of sixty is as gaudy as her
grand-daughter. A friend of mine, a good-natured old man, amused me
the other day with an account of his journey to the Mall. It seems,
in his walk thither, he, for some time, followed a lady, who, as he
thought, by her dress, was a girl of fifteen. It was airy, elegant, and
youthful. My old friend had called up all his poetry on this occasion,
and fancied twenty Cupids prepared for execution in every folding of
her white negligee. He had prepared his imagination for an angel’s
face;--but what was his mortification to find that the imaginary
goddess was no other than his cousin Hannah, some years older than
himself!
But to give it in his own words: “After the transports of our first
salute,” said he, “were over, I could not avoid running my eye over
her whole appearance. Her gown was of cambric, cut short before, in
order to discover a high-heeled shoe, which was buckled almost at the
toe. Her cap consisted of a few bits of cambric, and flowers of painted
paper stuck on one side of her head. Her bosom, that had felt no hand
but the hand of time these twenty years, rose, suing to be pressed. I
could, indeed, have wished her more than a handkerchief of Paris net,
to shade her beauties; for, as Tasso says of the rose-bud, ‘_Quanto si
nostra men, tanto e pin bella_.’ A female breast is generally thought
most beautiful as it is more sparingly discovered.
“As my cousin had not put on all this finery for nothing, she was
at that time sallying out to the Park, where I had overtaken her.
Perceiving, however, that I had on my best wig, she offered, if I would
squire her there, to send home the footman. Though I trembled for our
reception in public, yet I could not, with any civility, refuse; so,
to be as gallant as possible, I took her hand in my arm, and thus we
marched on together.
“When we made our entry at the Park, two antiquated figures, so polite
and so tender, soon attracted the eyes of the company. As we made our
way among the crowds, who were out to show their finery as well as we,
wherever we came, I perceived we brought good humor with us. The polite
could not forbear smiling, and the vulgar burst out into a horse-laugh
at our grotesque figures. Cousin Hannah, who was perfectly conscious of
the rectitude of her own appearance, attributed all this mirth to the
oddity of mine; while I as cordially placed the whole to her account.
Thus, from being two of the best-natured creatures alive, before we
got half way up the Mall, we both began to grow peevish, and like two
mice on a string, endeavored to revenge the impertinence of others
upon ourselves. ‘I am amazed, cousin Jeffery,’ says Miss, ‘that I can
never get you to dress like a Christian. I knew we should have the
eyes of the Park upon us, with your great wig, so frizzled, and yet so
beggarly, and your monstrous muff. I hate those odious muffs.’ I could
have patiently borne a criticism on all the rest of my equipage; but
as I had always a peculiar veneration for my muff, I could not forbear
being piqued a little; and throwing my eyes with a spiteful air on her
bosom, ‘I could heartily wish, madam,’ replied I, ‘that, for your sake,
my muff was cut into a tippet.’
“As my cousin, by this time, was grown heartily ashamed of her
gentleman usher, and as I was never very fond of any kind of exhibition
myself, it was mutually agreed to retire for a while to one of the
seats, and, from that retreat, remark on others as freely as they had
remarked on us.
“When seated, we continued silent for some time, employed in very
different speculations. I regarded the whole company, now passing
in review before me, as drawn out merely for my amusement. For my
entertainment, the beauty had, all that morning, been improving her
charms: the beau had put on lace, and the young doctor a big wig,
merely to please me. But quite different were the sentiments of
cousin Hannah: she regarded every well-dressed woman as a victorious
rival; hated every face that seemed dressed in good humor, or wore
the appearance of greater happiness than her own. I perceived her
uneasiness, and attempted to lessen it, by observing that there was no
company in the Park to-day. To this she readily assented; ‘and yet,’
says she, ‘it is full enough of scrubs of one kind or another.’ My
smiling at this observation gave her spirits to pursue the bent of
her inclination, and now she began to exhibit her skill in secret
history, as she found me disposed to listen. ‘Observe,’ says she to me,
‘that old woman in tawdry silk, and dressed out beyond the fashion.
That is Miss Biddy Evergreen. Miss Biddy, it seems, has money; and as
she considers that money was never so scarce as it is now, she seems
resolved to keep what she has to herself. She is ugly enough, you see;
yet, I assure you, she has refused several offers, to my knowledge,
within this twelvemonth. Let me see;--three gentlemen from Ireland, who
study the law, two waiting captains, her doctor, and a Scotch preacher,
who had liked to have carried her off. All her time is passed between
sickness and finery. Thus she spends the whole week in a close chamber,
with no other company but her monkey, her apothecary, and cat; and
comes dressed out to Park every Sunday, to show her airs, to get new
lovers, to catch a new cold, and to make new work for the doctor.
“‘There goes Mrs. Roundabout, I mean the fat lady in the lustring
trollopee. Between you and I, she is but a cutler’s wife. See how
she’s dressed, as fine as hands and pins can make her, while her two
marriageable daughters, like bunters in stuff gowns, are now taking
six-penny-worth of tea at the White-conduit house. Odious puss, how
she waddles along, with her train two yards behind her! She puts me
in mind of my Lord Bantam’s Indian sheep, which are obliged to have
their monstrous tails trundled along in a go-cart. For all her airs, it
goes to her husband’s heart to see four yards of good lustring wearing
against the ground, like one of his knives on a grindstone. To speak
my mind, cousin Jeffery, I never liked those tails: for suppose a
young fellow should be rude, and the lady should offer to step back in
the fright, instead of retiring, she treads upon her train, and falls
fairly on her back; and then you know, cousin,--her clothes may be
spoiled.
“‘Ah! Miss Mazzard! I knew we should not miss her in the Park; she in
the monstrous Prussian bonnet. Miss, though so very fine, was bred
a milliner; and might have had some custom, if she had minded her
business; but the girl was fond of finery, and, instead of dressing her
customers, laid out all her goods in adorning herself. Every new gown
she put on impaired her credit; she still, however, went on, improving
her appearance, and lessening her little fortune, and is now, you see,
become a belle and a bankrupt.’
“My cousin was proceeding in her remarks, which were interrupted by
the approach of the very lady she had been so freely describing. Miss
had perceived her at a distance, and approached to salute her. I found
by the warmth of the two ladies’ protestations, that they had been
long intimate, esteemed friends and acquaintance. Both were so pleased
at this happy rencounter, that they were resolved not to part for
the day. So we all crossed the Park together, and I saw them into a
hackney-coach at St. James’s.”
OLIVER GOLDSMITH.
RECIPES.
_Paste of Palermo._
This paste for the hands, to use instead of soap, preserves them from
chapping, smooths their surface, and renders them soft.
Taken, pound of soft soap, half a pint of salad oil, the same quantity
of spirits of wine, the juice of three lemons, a little silver sand,
and a sufficient quantity of what perfume pleases the sense. The oil
and soap must be first boiled together in an earthen pipkin. The other
ingredients to be added after boiling; and, when cool, amalgamate into
a paste with the hands.
_Fard._
This useful paste is good for taking off sunburnings, effects of
weather on the face, and accidental cutaneous eruptions. It must be
applied at going to bed. First wash the face with its usual ablution,
and when dry, rub this fard all over it, and go to rest with it on the
skin. This is excellent for almost constant use. Take two ounces of
oil of sweet almonds, ditto of spermaceti; melt them in a pipkin over a
slow fire. When they are dissolved and mixed, take it off the fire, and
stir into it one tablespoonful of fine honey. Continue stirring it till
it is cold, and then it is fit for use.
_Lip Salve._
A quarter of a pound of hard marrow from the marrow-bone. Melt it over
a slow fire, as it dissolves gradually, pour the liquid marrow into an
earthen pipkin; then add to it an ounce of spermaceti, twenty raisins
of the sun, stoned, and a small portion of alcanna root, sufficient to
color it a bright vermilion. Simmer these ingredients over a slow fire
for ten minutes, then strain the whole through muslin; and, while hot,
stir into it one teaspoonful of the balsam of Peru. Pour it into the
boxes in which it is to remain; it will there stiffen, and become fit
for use.
_Lavender Water._
Take of rectified spirits of wine half a pint, essential oil of
lavender two drachms, otto of roses five drops. Mix all together in a
bottle, and cork it for use.
_Unction de Maintenon._
The use of this is to remove freckles. The mode of application is
this:--Wash the face at night with elder-flower water, then anoint
it with the unction. In the morning cleanse your skin from its oily
adhesion, by washing it copiously in rose-water.
Take of Venice soap an ounce, dissolve it in half an ounce of
lemon-juice, to which add of oil of bitter-almonds and deliquidated oil
of tartar, each a quarter of an ounce. Let the mixture be placed in the
sun till it acquires the consistence of ointment. When in this state,
add three drops of the oil of rhodium, and keep it for use.
_Creme de l’Enclos._
This is an excellent wash, to be used night and morning, for the
removal of tan.
Take half a pint of milk, with the juice of a lemon, and a spoonful of
white brandy, boil the whole, and skim it clear from all scum. When
cool, it is ready for use.
_Pommade de Seville._
This simple application is much in request with the Spanish ladies,
for taking off the effects of the sun, and to render the complexion
brilliant.
Take equal parts of lemon-juice and white of eggs. Beat the whole
together in a varnished earthen pipkin, and set on a slow fire. Stir
the fluid with a wooden spoon till it has acquired the consistence of
soft pomatum. Perfume it with some sweet essence, and before you apply
it, carefully wash the face with rice water.
_Beaume à l’Antique._
This is a very fine cure for chapped lips. Take four ounces of the oil
of roses, half an ounce of white wax, and half an ounce of spermaceti;
melt them in a glass vessel, and stir them with a wooden spoon; pour it
out into glass cups for use.
_Wash for the Hair._
This is a cleanser and brightener of the head and hair, and should be
applied in the morning.
Beat up the whites of six eggs into a froth, and with that anoint the
head close to the roots of the hair. Leave it to dry on; then wash the
head and hair thoroughly with a mixture of rum and rose-water in equal
quantities.
_Aura and Cephalus._
This curious recipe is of Grecian origin, as its name plainly
indicates, and it is said to have been very efficacious in preventing,
or even removing, premature wrinkles from the face of the Athenian fair.
Put some powder of the best myrrh upon an iron plate, sufficiently
heated to melt the gum gently, and when it liquifies, hold your
face over it, at a proper distance to receive the fumes without
inconvenience; and that you may reap the whole benefit of the
fumigation, cover your head with a napkin. It must be observed,
however, that if the applicant feels any headache, she must desist, as
the remedy will not suit her constitution, and ill consequences might
possibly ensue.
_Madame Recamier’s Pommade._
This was communicated by this lady as being used in France and Italy,
by those who professionally, or by choice, are engaged in exercises
which require long and great exertions of the limbs, as dancing,
playing on instruments, &c.
Take any suitable quantity of _Axungia Cervi_, i. e. the fat of a red
stag or hart; add to it the same quantity of olive oil, (Florence oil
is preferable to any of the kind,) and half the quantity of virgin wax;
melt the whole in an earthen vessel, well glazed, over a slow fire,
and, when properly mixed, leave it to cool. This ointment has been
applied also with considerable efficacy in cases of rheumatism.
_A Wash for the Face._
This recipe is well known in France, and much extolled by the ladies of
that country as efficacious and harmless.
Take equal parts of the seeds of the melon, pompion, gourd, and
cucumber, pounded and reduced to powder or meal; add to it fresh
cream, sufficient to dilute the flour; beat all up together, adding
a sufficient quantity of milk, as it may be required, to make an
ointment, and then apply it to the face; leave it there for half an
hour, and then wash it off with warm soft water.
_A Paste for the Skin._
This may be recommended in cases when the skin seems to get too loosely
attached to the muscles.
Boil the whites of four eggs in rose-water, add to it a sufficient
quantity of alum; beat the whole together till it takes the consistence
of a paste. This will give, when applied, great firmness to the skin.
_A Wash to give Lustre to the Face._
Infuse wheat-bran well sifted, for three or four hours in white wine
vinegar; add to it five yolks of eggs and a grain or two of ambergris,
and distil the whole. When the bottle is carefully corked, keep it for
twelve or fifteen days before you make use of it.
_Pimpernel Water._
Pimpernel is a most wholesome plant, and often used on the continent
for the purpose of whitening the complexion; it is there in so high
reputation, that it is said generally, that it ought to be continually
on the toilet of every lady who cares for the brightness of her skin.
_Eau de Veau._
Boil a calf’s foot in four quarts of river water till it is reduced to
half the quantity. Add half a pound of rice, and boil it with crumb of
white bread steeped in milk, a pound of fresh butter, and the whites of
five fresh eggs; mix with them a small quantity of camphor and alum,
and distil the whole. This recipe may be strongly recommended; it is
most beneficial to the skin, which it lubricates and softens to a very
comfortable degree. The best manner of distilling these ingredients is
in the _balneum mariæ_; that is, in a bottle placed in boiling water.
_Rose Water._
Put some roses into water, add to them a few drops of acid; the
vitriolic acid seems to be preferable to any--soon the water will
assume both the color and perfume of the roses.
_Another._
Take two pounds of rose-leaves, place them on a napkin tied round the
edges of a basin filled with hot water, and put a dish of cold water
upon the leaves; keep the bottom water hot, and change the water at top
as soon as it begins to grow warm; by this kind of distillation you
will extract a great quantity of the essential oil of the roses by a
process which cannot be expensive, and will prove very beneficial.
_Virgin Milk._
A publication of this kind would certainly be looked upon as an
imperfect performance, if we omitted to say a few words upon this
famous cosmetic. It consists of a tincture of benjoin, precipitated by
water. The tincture of benjoin is obtained by taking a certain quantity
of that gum, pouring spirits of wine upon it, and boiling it till it
becomes a rich tincture. If you pour a few drops of this tincture into
a glass of water, it will produce a mixture which will assume all the
appearance of milk, and retain a very agreeable perfume. If the face is
washed with this mixture, it will, by calling the purple stream of the
blood to the external fibres of the epidermis, produce on the cheeks a
beautiful rosy color; and, if left on the face to dry, it will render
it clear and brilliant. It also removes spots, freckles, pimples,
erysipelatous eruptions, &c. &c. if they have not been of long standing
on the skin.
_Lavender Water._
Take four handfuls of dried lavender flowers, and sprinkle on them
one quart of brandy, the same quantity of white wine and rose-water;
leave them to remain six days in a large bottle well-corked up; let the
liquor be distilled and poured off.
_Sweet-scented Water._
This agreeably-scented water is not only a pleasant cosmetic, but also
of great use in nervous disorders.
Put one quart of rose-water, and the same quantity of orange-water,
into a large and wide-mouthed glass; strew upon it two handfuls of
jessamine flowers, put the glass in the _balneum mariæ_, or on a slow
fire, and when it is distilled, add to it a scruple of musk and the
same quantity of ambergris.
_Eau d’Ange._
Pound in a mortar fifteen cloves and one pound of cinnamon, and put the
whole into a quart of water, with four grains of anniseed; let it stand
over a charcoal fire twentyfour hours, then strain off the liquor, and
put it up for use. This perfume is most excellent, and will do well for
the hands, face, and hair, to which it communicates a very agreeable
scent.
_Remedy for the Toothache._
In two drachms of rectified spirits of wine dissolve one drachm of
camphire, five grains of prepared opium, and ten drops of oil of box;
mix them well, and keep it well corked for use. If the pain arise from
a hollow tooth, four or five drops on cotton to be put into the tooth;
or six or seven drops to be put on cotton into the ear on the side
where the pain is felt. Should the patient not feel easier in a quarter
of an hour, the same may be repeated. It has never failed on the second
application.
_An excellent Eye-Water._
Take six ounces of rectified spirits of wine, dissolve in it one drachm
of camphire, and half a pint of elder-flower water. Wash the eyes night
and morning with this liquid; it clears the vision, and strengthens the
sight.
_Dentifrice._
The following is one of the best recipes for tooth-powder:--
Take of prepared chalk six ounces, cassia powder, half an ounce,
orris-root, an ounce. These are to be well mixed, and may be colored
with red lake, or any other innocent substance, according to the fancy
of the user. This dentifrice is to be used with a firm brush every
morning; the teeth should also be brushed before going to bed, but it
is seldom necessary to use the powder more than once a day.
THE END.
Transcriber’s Notes
Minor errors in punctuation and spelling have been corrected.