"Beyond the hill there are also people" is a German proverb whose

meaning is obvious, yet the people "beyond the hill" are strangers and

foreigners; here home ends and the world begins. From the hilltop the

whole valley lay in panoramic view--the town, the clinging villages, the

winding river and the encircling mountains--this was home. I knew each

path and roadway; knew, by the sound of the bell, the village and church

from which it came; sheep and cattle were of a certain breed; horses

were harnessed in a peculiar way; the peasants of each village had their

own picturesque style of garment and I knew at a glance each man's

habitat. Nobody or nothing was strange to me. The whole valley was home

and I felt the gripping sense of homesickness as I viewed it for the

last time. I could have embraced it all--yet in only a small spot of

that small valley had I moved with any sense of freedom.

Our street was plainly visible from the hilltop. The "_Porte_" or

"_Forte_" as it became corrupted--was a gorge-like, bottle-shaped

street, the narrow end of which was the gate of the Jews, now the

toll-gate over which the _Kisbir_ presides. Through it came my ancestor,

Reb Abraham Bolsover, with a bundle on his back containing sacred books

and worldly goods. In the one was his _life_, in the other his _living_,

and between barter and the study of God's law his life moved, never

without a struggle. When they carried him out of that same street to the

God's Acre, they said of him that he died poor in possessions but rich

in good works.

Through that gate my father went out at the call of his Fatherland, and

when they carried him to his resting-place they made great lamentation.

He left to his widow five children--one yet unborn, money enough to keep

them from want and a name which always stood for self-sacrifice and

devotion.

These ancestors of whom I know, harmed no man and must have done some

good; yet they were regarded as aliens and could not move freely beyond

a certain boundary. The _Porte_ was our home and this diminutive Ghetto

shut us in--or shut us out. In later days I discovered that it did both.

I have looked down from many a hilltop since that morning; from the

ruins of Athens, the hills of Rome, the mountains round about Jerusalem,

the sky-scrapers of the New World metropolis, and I have discovered that

one's world, no matter how large or how small, is full of compartments.

Everywhere people shut themselves in and shut others out; they are moved

by what they call class-feeling, race-prejudice, religious intolerance;

but it is all of a kind, only labelled differently according to the

circumstances. The main lines of our divisions were visible from the

little hilltop in that little corner of the world and were plowed into

the consciousness of the people through hundreds and thousands of years

of conflict--and alas! they bore sacred symbols.

The synagogue, with its oriental minarets, was crowded in among the

encroaching houses of the Ghetto; the Roman Catholic church, with its

severe buttresses, bulbous steeple and shining cross, occupied the

centre of the town, dominating the landscape; the Protestant church,

with its ugly, square tower, over which a rooster weather-vane indicated

the shifting winds, stood at the edge of the town, close to green fields

and pastures.

Once my brother by vaccination, wishing to ingratiate himself, told me

he believed the Jews were the trunk of the tree, the Catholics were the

branches, and the Protestants were the leaves which the wind shook and

carried away and scattered. That was good news to me and I rewarded him

with a big piece of bread and butter. After it was safe in his grasp he

said: "Yes, the Jews are the trunk, but it is old and decayed, and the

Lord has grafted a new tree upon another trunk." Then he ran away as

fast as he could, and I hoped that kind Providence would let him stumble

and fall; but Providence seemed to be on his side. Nevertheless, that

was good news to me--news which no doubt he had heard some time in

church. It was a truth which expressed relationship, but it was one of

which the synagogue seemed quite unconscious.

Our rabbi's chief function seemed to be, to determine for the housewives

whether a pot in which meat had been cooked might still be used if a

drop of milk fell into it; whether a goose whose fat leg showed a bruise

must be sold to the Gentiles or whether it was _kosher_ for the Sabbath

meal, and how the rigid rabbinic laws could be circumvented without

transgression.

Thus, our Sabbath law forbade all manner of work for us and our

servants; but the Gentile servants did light our fires, cook our meals,

and sweep our rooms. "Of course," the rabbi said, "the servants have to

live--they do it for themselves and not for us--we just eat with them."

On the Sabbath no burden must be carried; but one must have a

handkerchief. "Then bind it about your loins and it is part of your

apparel."

"Two thousand yards is the distance one may walk on the Sabbath, but if

I have to walk four thousand--what then?" "Stop at the two-thousand yard

line, put a piece of bread on the ground and say: 'This is where I

live,' then walk two thousand yards more."

Such was the casuistry with which our rabbi's mind was filled. Poor man!

he had to spend his time with "annis and cummin," he had to glorify

trifles and so minimize the real glory. He had so much to say about

rabbi this and rabbi that, and so little of what God said to the seers

and prophets.

This was my early quarrel with the synagogue, although at that time I

could not express myself. First, it made the traditional ceremonials and

observances a law of God. Secondly, it was intolerantly exclusive

against those outside its own pale and those within, who saw the larger

light. Yet memories crowd upon me whenever I see the synagogue from this

hilltop.

The synagogue was at its best on the eve of the Sabbath. Through the

rusty iron gate came its Israel, the fathers and sons; the women being

busy with the evening meal, the best of the week. Israel looked

outwardly renewed. The Sabbath scrubbing was a religious duty; each boy

showed its effects in his clean and glowing face, and he was clothed in

his best garments.

How unconventionally Israel approaches its God, and how democratically!

There is a ceremonial rigidly adhered to, but each man follows it as he

pleases, without regard to harmony or order. There are noise and

confusion; noble psalms are mumbled, pious petitions are repeated

mechanically and only the Sabbath hymn has melody. It is sung by the

reader, but his is no easy task with such an individualistic

congregation. Some one cuts short his crescendo, another checks his

flight as he approaches the high C, and when he imagines himself near

Heaven's gate, a third pulls him to earth by a threefold Amen, five

minutes ahead of schedule time.

No one thinks it out of place to discuss the affairs of the day,

especially the affairs of some neighbour. Strangers who happen in are

weighed in the balance and their moral avoirdupois discussed, as is

their fashionable or unfashionable clothing. Business is transacted on

Sabbath eve; but this, of course, _sub rosa_.

Our pew adjoined that of a grain dealer. Hardly had he thrashed his way

through the Ninety-fifth Psalm--"Come let us sing unto the Lord"--than

he said to his neighbour, who was just catching breath for the

Ninety-sixth Psalm: "_Nu_, how was the grain market in Hodowin?" "God's

enemies shall have grain to sell now!"--was the pious answer (business

is never unqualifiedly good, to the Jew). Then both hastened through the

Ninety-sixth Psalm, a few seconds behind the rest, yet setting a pace to

bring them out far ahead, the grain dealer skipping the last lines.

"Will you sell?" he asked. "Sell on the Sabbath?" and then through the

Ninety-seventh and Ninety-eighth Psalms without interruption. Here the

Twenty-ninth Psalm is repeated. How did I know, how _could_ I know, that

this is a Psalm in which some great soul saw the glory of Jehovah in

nature?

"The voice of Jehovah is upon the waters: the God of Glory thundereth:

the Lord _is_ upon many waters.

The voice of the Lord is powerful; the voice of the Lord is full of

majesty.

The voice of the Lord breaketh the cedars; yea, the Lord breaketh the

cedars of Lebanon.

He maketh them also to skip like a calf; Lebanon and Sirion like a young

unicorn.

The voice of the Lord divideth the flames of fire.

The voice of the Lord shaketh the wilderness; the Lord shaketh the

wilderness of Kadesh.

The voice of the Lord maketh the hinds to calve, and discovereth the

forests; and in His temple doth every one speak of His glory."

Not a word did I understand. It went over their lips like grain through

a threshing-machine, and it was all straw to me. Far more interesting

was the fact that, after the Sabbath hymn, six loads of grain changed

hands, while the congregation repeated this injunction:

"And the children of Israel shall keep the Sabbath throughout their

generations, as an everlasting covenant. Between Me and the children of

Israel is a sign forever; for in six days Jehovah made Heaven and Earth,

and on the seventh day He rested and was refreshed."

The weary service ended, there was no time for gossip; each man and

especially the boys hurried home to the Sabbath meal, which, more than

its religion, keeps so many faithful to Israel.

Our best room was at its best; the whitest linen covered the table, the

brass candlesticks were burnished, mother had blessed the candles and

lighted them, and with her cheery face shining brighter than they shone,

she put her hands upon my head, blessing me.

"God make thee like Ephraim and Manasseh;" and while I did not know just

why, "like Ephraim and Manasseh," it was a blessing just to feel her

hands upon my head. Then with true unction, this High Priestess of

Jehovah repeated:

"May the Lord bless thee and keep thee,

May He cause His face to shine upon thee and be gracious unto thee,

May the Lord lift up His countenance upon thee, and give thee peace."

Still more sweetly she led us in saying: "For He will give His angels

charge over thee, to guard thee in all thy ways. He will guard thy going

out and thy coming in, from now and forevermore."

The thirty-first chapter of Proverbs, which then follows, she never

repeated nor permitted us to read, for it is the praise of the virtuous

woman by her husband, "who praiseth her in the gates." _Her_ husband no

doubt praised _her_ in the Eternal City.

To have given the world the Sabbath is no small achievement for a race,

and the Israel I knew kept its rigorous laws and was rewarded by its

rich blessings.

The _Porte_ was solemnly quiet on Sabbath morning. Every store was

closed, although in later days many a merchant could not resist

receiving the Gentiles' money over his counter, and quiet business was

done behind closed doors. The service of the day began at nine, and the

women's gallery was crowded, while a constant chatter was kept up, much

to the annoyance of the men, who were glad to be able to blame some one

for the disorder.

I remember how indignantly the grain dealer looked up to the gallery and

tried to hush the women into silence, on the very morning after he had

bought six loads of grain between the repetitions of the Ninety-fifth

Psalm and the commandment to keep the Sabbath holy.

The younger men found the encircling gallery very attractive. From it

the young girls looked down upon them; eyes met and there were sweet

smiles and blushes. There the bride stood, the first Sabbath after the

wedding, and if the bridegroom had brought her from abroad, she was

viewed and criticized from all angles; the size of her dowry was

commented upon, her looks, her family and her dress; although a large

dowry "covered a multitude of sins."

From the gallery mothers watched their restless youngsters, and I can

imagine my mother's dear face looking down upon me, often reprovingly.

From here they looked with pride upon their sons, called for the first

time to read the law, on their thirteenth birthday. This gallery was the

Jewish Women's Club; here they discussed in small or large groups the

blessings and pains of motherhood, their own and others' griefs; here

they pitied the orphan and the widow and comforted one another.

The younger boys were admitted to this gallery during the reading of the

law, which seemed very uninteresting to them, for it was all in Hebrew

and chanted in a most monotonous way. But that which preceded it was

very absorbing indeed; it was the sale, practically an auction, of the

privilege of carrying the _Torah_, of "undressing" it, reading small

portions of the law, redressing it and returning it to the Ark. These

privileges were bought and presented to visitors or any one whom one

wished to honour. It was as exciting as any auction sale, only it was

all done without a word's being spoken.

Upon a board with movable letters and figures was announced the peculiar

part of the ceremony for sale. The price advanced at the raising of a

hand or the nodding of a head, and when some rivalry entered into the

sale, the whole congregation watched the proceedings with ill-suppressed

excitement.

The rabbi, the reader and the dignitaries of the congregation approached

the Ark, and that was the one, great, solemn moment. The rich, velvet

curtain was drawn aside; the Ark was opened, and the scrolls of the law

carried in solemn procession around the synagogue. We children left our

pews and crowded close, to kiss the passing scroll.

The white-bearded rabbi looked like one of the priests of old, and I

could easily imagine myself in the Temple on Mount Moriah. This

solemnity was but momentary; those who had the honour of performing the

various ceremonies were called; they pronounced the blessing, quickly

and mechanically a portion of the law was read, and then the readers

made offerings for various charitable purposes. There is no religious or

social function in Israel at which an offering is not made, and

gratitude to Jehovah always expresses itself in gifts.

The sermon followed immediately and while old men listened to the

expounding of the weighty things of the law, women gossiped, children

in the yard played rather boisterously, and the young men talked about

their _affaires d'amour_, much to the hurt of those of us who were old

enough to listen and too young to fully understand.

The Sabbath dinner had a peculiar fragrance, and lingers in one's memory

more, I fear, than the teachings of the synagogue. The meal was prepared

on Friday, and consisted of _Scholeth_. Pork and beans is, to the New

England Puritan, what _Scholeth_ was to his Jewish prototype.

In huge, black pots, the combination of beans and goose was carried to

the communal bake-oven, where for eighteen hours it slowly simmered and

baked, and was ready, piping hot, when the morning service was over. The

pots were nearly all alike, the owner's name or number being marked in

chalk. Once at least it happened that we got the rabbi's _Scholeth_. His

wife was reputed a poor housekeeper, and the _Scholeth_ proved the fact.

When we returned it to its owner we found, much to our dismay, the

rabbinic family getting to the bottom of our own.

In the afternoon, mother and I went visiting, usually among the poor and

sick, and one of the heritages of those visits is a deep sympathy with

human suffering. As I grew older, my uncle took me with him to the

weekly discussions of the law, which were held in an anteroom of the

synagogue.

I remember two questions which I asked on different occasions. One was,

why we were permitted to drink the beer brewed by Gentiles and not the

wine which they pressed. The rabbi's reply was, that we were not

permitted to drink the wine, because wine is used for social occasions

and there would be danger of contact with the Gentiles. When I replied

that beer was used for the same purpose, I was told that beer was not

brewed in Talmudic times, and consequently could not be forbidden.

In a German translation of the prophets, I had read the first chapter of

Isaiah. I felt its vigorous denunciation, I caught its first glimpse of

true religion, and when I asked why the rabbi commanded and approved

what Isaiah condemned, he told me that the prophetic writings were

beneath the law, and that he who kept all the points of the law was

greater than they. I never enjoyed these discussions, but now I wish I

would have had the patience to sit through them, if only to fasten fully

upon my mind one such discussion.

I do remember the stuffy room, for since that time I have sat in it with

the new rabbi, who has studied theology in Germany and knows more and

preaches less than he believes.

The old rabbi was genuinely orthodox; his Sabbath cap and velvet gown

were full of lint and dust; his head was unkempt, for to comb it would

have been labour. He sat in a dilapidated grandfather's chair and before

him lay the old Talmud; huge, forbidding looking volumes, a mixture of

truth and superstition; a Magna Charta, bills of sale into slavery;

wings and chains, the sublime and the ridiculous; but to him every

sentence was sacred, every letter inspired of God. Around him sat the

pious men of the town and such of their sons as were inclining or being

inclined towards the study of the law.

"What did rabbi so and so reply to rabbi this and that?"

Back and forth went questions and answers, like the flying shuttle

through woof and warp. It seemed trivial, much of this; but after all,

to them those things were vital--more vital certainly than the

occupation of their impious neighbours, who spent the Sabbath in idle

gossip. Certainly it was more elevating than the way most of their

Gentile brethren spent their Sabbaths. They danced, drank, fought and

staggered home to beat their wives, or do worse, if they were not

married. After all, Israel's Sabbath was Israel's salvation. It ennobled

him, kept alive the spiritual, and prevented him from utterly falling a

victim to Mammon.

I have no quarrel with the synagogue except this:--that it never

revealed to me the _riches_ of Judaism. It showed me its beggarly edge,

its vulnerable trivialities, its pathetic pharisaism and its absurd

worship of the letter. That Israel had a mission to the world I never

knew; that Moses and the prophets were names of which the world took

cognizance I never heard; that the Catholic and the Protestant were

feeding from the same spiritual sources which fed us was hidden from me,

and that we all had "one Father" was never revealed to me.

I surmised all this in my boyish way and I searched for that very

thing--through many painful years; but when I discovered it, I had left

the synagogue behind me and there is no way back.

XXIV

THE CHURCH WITH THE CROSS

The cross dominated the landscape; crowning the hilltop stood one,

black, austere, forbidding ... a suffering, emaciated Christ hanging on

the tree. Cut out of white limestone, another shone against the dark

forest guarding its sylvan mysteries. The cross rose above the river,

from the centre pier of the bridge where it vibrated to each shock of

the swift rushing stream; at every turn of the road, on the dividing

line of orchard and meadow, marking the boundaries of fields and

villages, stood the sacred emblem of The Church, itself surmounted by

this Roman gallows of beaten gold, proud symbol and sign of victory!

No one ever told me its meaning, yet I soon learned that it was

something ominous ... terrible; and that because of Him who hung upon it

_we_ suffered and were persecuted.

This I learned by painful experience; for I felt many a lump on my head

raised by the benevolent fists of Gentile youth because I would not look

at the cross and kiss it. On the other hand, my ears were pulled much

too often by my guardian because I _did_ look at it. Once I was all but

choked to death because I would not make the sign of the cross, and

again was threatened by punishment temporal and eternal, because I

carried in my pocket a little crucifix given me by the goose girl in my

race-unconscious days. At that time I regarded it as a toy. It never

repelled me, although as I now analyze my feelings it was to me a symbol

of unforgiveness, something which was angry with me, that I should like

to make up with, yet did not dare approach. It was unpleasant to me, not

because I suffered bodily harm through it, but because it stood aloof

and kept me from enjoying all for which my life hungered. It seemed to

say: "This is a Catholic mountain; this is a Christian river, and these

fields and meadows, these birds and wild flowers are not for you."

Whenever I passed a cross I seemed to hear the Christ saying: "Get out

of here, you little Jewish boy, you crucified Me!" I heard Him say that,

because every Catholic I met seemed to be especially angry with me if we

met before a crucifix or shrine. Even now when walking along those

highways I have the same feeling.

During my childhood I named most of these holy places after some bodily

punishment that I received there. Not long ago I sat in the shadow of an

acacia grove and saw the crucifix of the "bloody nose," as I called it.

I know some beech trees overshadowing a shrine, which I called the

shrine "_Zur Ohrfeige_" a peculiar form of punishment which my

countrymen will readily recognize.

Once, when I shared in Christmas exercises, taking the part of Moorish

King, as I have already told, and was hurled from my high estate, I

received presents and a kiss from the sister of the _Pany_, a woman as

saintly as he was wicked. She carried a rosary with an ivory crucifix to

church with her and the cross lost much of its terror for me because she

was associated with it. Twice, I think, after I took the part of Wise

Man, she sent me at Christmas time a present of russet apples; and while

she never spoke to me again she smiled at me always when in passing I

doffed my cap to her.

There was also a hatter in our town who, it was rumoured, had studied

for the priesthood; he too had a share in reconciling me to the

crucifix. He was the priest's right hand man, assuming all sorts of

parish burdens. On _Corpus Christi_ he carried the large crucifix at the

head of the procession. This holy day was a peculiarly trying one to the

Jewish community, for the Catholic population was enraged when a Jew

refused to bare his head as the crucifix passed.

To keep one's head covered and stand erect in the synagogue was regarded

by us children as a protest against the Christian faith and practice;

while to share in the Christian worship even by the removal of one's

cap, would have been regarded as a most sinful and humiliating act.

The Jews usually drew the shutters, locked the doors and kept out of

sight while the procession passed; but I was lured by the music, the

gaily coloured banners and by all that in a procession appeals to a boy.

I was pushed far to the front and when the head of the procession

approached I stood there erect with covered head and immediately became

the target for well-aimed blows, which sent my cap flying and threw me

violently to the ground. I might have been crushed beneath the feet of

the mob had it not been for the hatter, who, shifting the heavy crucifix

to one hand and supporting it against his body, stooped, lifted me, led

me half around the church and through its open portal; while the bells

rang, pious worshippers sang and priests chanted. The good hatter and

the crucifix thus became closely identified.

That was the first time I had seen the interior of the church on a

festal day. Candles blazed on the altars, banners waved, the organ was

reinforced by blaring trombones and huge brass horns; priests and

acolytes wore their most splendid vestments, and clouds of incense

trailed upward to the loft where pigeons cooed and ventured many a

flight around the awestruck congregation.

I am sure that I worshipped; at least I was uplifted; the crude and

discordant in my nature seemed to leave me and I felt buoyant as if

floating on the air. It was a moment akin to that when, on her

death-bed, the miller's daughter passed her wasted fingers through my

hair and kissed my hot temples.

Against the Current: Simple Chapters from a Complex Life · 第 8 / 11 段