Proceed down the north shore of Lake Huron to the entrance of the
Straits of St. Mary's--Character of the shores, and
incidents--Ascend the river to Sault de Ste. Marie--Hostilities
encountered there--Intrepidity of General Cass.
Having spent six days on the island, rambling about it, and making
ourselves as well acquainted with its features and inhabitants as
possible, we felt quite recruited and cheered up, after the tedious
delays along the southern shores of Lake Huron. And we all felt the
better prepared for plunging deeper into the northwestern forest. Before
venturing into the stronghold of the Chippewas, whose territories extend
around Lake Superior, it was deemed prudent to take along an additional
military force as far as Sault de Ste. Marie. But five or six years had
then passed since this large tribe had been arrayed in hostilities
against the United States (in the war of 1814), and they were yet
smarting under the wounds and losses which they had received at
Brownstown and the River Thames, where they had lost some prominent men.
Generals Brown and Macomb,[32] when making a reconnoissance, with their
respective staffs, a couple of years before, had been fired on in
visiting Gros Cape, at the foot of Lake Superior, and although no one
was killed on that occasion, the circumstance was sufficient to indicate
their feeling.
[32] The following are the official data of this distinguished
officer:--
Alexander Macomb, Jr., born April 3, 1782, Detroit, N. Y.; Cornet
Cavalry, January 10, 1799; Second Lieutenant, February, 1801;
retained, April, 1802, in Second Infantry; First Lieutenant of
Engineers, October, 1802; Captain, June, 1805; Major of Engineers,
February 23, 1808; Lieutenant-Colonel, July 23, 1810; Acting
Adjutant-General of the Army, April 28, 1812; Colonel Third
Artillery, July 6, 1812; Brigadier-General, January 24, 1814; Brevet
Major-General, "for distinguished and gallant conduct in defeating
the enemy at Plattsburg, September 11, 1814" (October 1, 1814);
received the "thanks of Congress" of November 3, 1814, "for his
gallantry and good conduct in defeating the enemy at Plattsburg, on
the 11th of September, repelling with 1,500 men, aided by a body of
militia and volunteers from New York and Vermont, a British veteran
army, greatly superior in numbers," with the presentation of a
_gold medal_, "emblematical of this triumph;" retained, April 8,
1815; retained, May 21, as Colonel and Principal Engineer, with
Brevets Major-General and General-in-Chief of the Army, May 24,
1828; commanded the army of Florida 1836; died June 25, 1841, at
his head-quarters, Washington City.--_Gardner's Army Dictionary._
This additional force was placed under the command of Lieutenant John S.
Pierce, U. S. A., a brother of the commanding officer,[33] and of
Franklin Pierce, President of the United States. It consisted of
twenty-two men, with a twelve-oared barge. The whole expedition, now
numbering sixty-four persons, embarked at ten o'clock on the 15th, with
a fair wind, for our first destination, at Detour, being the west cape
of the Straits of St. Mary's. The distance is estimated at forty miles,
along a very intricate, masked shore of islands, called Chenos. The
breeze carried us at the rate of five miles per hour. The first traverse
is an arm of the Lake, three leagues across, over which we passed
swimmingly. This traverse is broken near its eastern terminus by Goose
Island, the Nekuhmenis (literally Brant Island) of the Chippewas--a
noted place of encampment for traders. We did not, however, touch at it.
A couple of miles beyond this brought us to Outard Point, where the men
rested a few moments on their oars and paddles. This point forms the
commencement of those intricate channels which constitute the Chenos
group. Our steersman gave them, however, a wide berth, and did not
approach near the shore till it began to be time to look out for the
mouth of the St. Mary's. After passing Point St. Vitel, a distance of
about thirty miles, the guides led into a sandy bay, under the
impression that we had reached the west cape of the St. Mary's; but in
this we were deceived. While landing here a few moments, in a deep bay,
the animal called Kaug by the Chippewas (a porcupine), was discovered
and killed by one of the men, called Baptiste, by a blow from a hatchet.
Buffon gives two engravings of this animal, as found in Canada, under
separate names; but it is apprehended that he has been misled by the
same animal seen in its summer and winter dress. To the Indian, this
animal is valuable for its quills, which are dyed of bright colors, to
ornament their dresses, moccasons, shot-pouches, and other choice
fabrics of deer skin, or birch bark. This animal has four claws on the
fore paw, and five on the hinder ones. It has small ears hid in the
hair, and a bushy tail, with coarse black and white hair. The specimen
killed would weigh eight pounds.
[33] John Sullivan Pierce (N. H., brother to Colonel Benjamin K.
Pierce), Third Lieutenant Third Artillery, April 5, and Second
Lieutenant, May, 1814; retained, May, 1815, in Artillery; First
Lieutenant, April 1818; resigned February 1, 1823.--_Gardner's Army
Dictionary._
Soon after coming out from this indentation of the lake, we came in
sight of Point Detour, on turning which, from E. to N., we found no
longer use for sails. Mackenzie places this point in north latitude 45°
54´.
The geology of this coast appears manifest. Secondary compact limestone
appears in place, in low situations, on the reef of Outard Island and
Point, and in the approach to Point Detour. A ridge of calcareous
highlands appears on the mainland east of Michilimackinac, stretching
off towards Sault de Ste. Marie, in a northeast direction. This ridge
appears to belong to a low mountain chain, of which the Island of
Michilimackinac may be deemed as one of the geological links. Just
before turning, we passed a very heavy angular block of limestone, much
covered with moss, which could not have been far removed, in the drift
era, from its parent bed. The largest angle of this stone, which I have
since examined, must be eight or ten feet. This block is of the
ortho-cerite stratum of Drummond Island. The shores are heavily charged
with various members of the boulder drift, with a fringe beyond them of
spruce and firs, giving one the idea of a cold, exposed, and most
unfavorable coast. Turning the Point of Detour, we ascended the strait a
few miles, and encamped on its west shore, off Frying-pan Island, at a
point directly opposite the British post of Drummond Island, which we
could not perceive, but the direction of which was clearly denoted by
the sound of the evening bugles.
The entrance into this strait forms a magnificent scene of waters and
islands, of which a map conveys but a faint conception. The straits here
appeared to be illimitable, we seemed to be in a world of waters. It is
stated to be thirty miles across to Point Thessalon. The large group of
the Manatouline Islands, stretching transversely through Lake Huron,
terminates with the isle Drummond--a name bestowed in compliment to the
bold leader, Col. Drummond, who led the night storming party, and was
blown up on the bastion of Fort Erie, in 1813. This station was first
occupied on the withdrawal of the British troops from Mackinac, in 1815.
This day's trip gave us a favorable idea of canoe travelling. It also
gave us an exalted idea of the gigantic system of these lake waters, and
their connecting straits. We had never done gazing at the prospect
before us, after turning the Detour, and did not retire from our camp
fires early. The next morning we embarked at five o'clock, a light
dreamy mist hanging over the waters. When this cleared away, we descried
the ruined chimneys and buildings of St. Joseph, the abandoned British
post burned by Col. Croghan, in 1814.[34] The day turned out a fine one,
and we proceeded up the straits with pleasurable feelings, excited by
the noble and novel views of scenery continually before us. Keeping the
west side of a high limestone island called Isle a la Crosse, we then
entered a sheet of water called Lac Vaseau, or Muddy Lake. We had
proceeded northwardly perhaps twenty miles, when we encountered another
of those large islands for which these straits are remarkable, called
Nebeesh,[35] or Sailor's Encampment Island. Our guides held up on its
western side, which soon brought us to the first rapids, and the
commencement of St. Mary's River. A formation of sandstone is here
observed in the bed of the stream. The waters are swift and shallow, and
the men encountered quite a struggle in the ascent, and so much injured
one of our canoes that it became necessary to unlade and mend it. In the
mean time, the atmosphere put on a threatening aspect, with heavy peals
of thunder, but no rain followed till we again re-embarked and proceeded
five or six miles, when a shower fell. It did not, however, compel us to
land, and by six o'clock in the afternoon, the sky again became clear.
We had now ascended the strait and river so far, that it became certain
we could reach our destination before night, and the men worked with the
greater alacrity. At eight o'clock we had surmounted the second rapid,
called the Little Rapid, Nebeetung of the Indians, where we encountered
a swift current. We were now within two miles of our destination. The
whole river is here embodied before the eye, and is a mile or
three-fourths of a mile wide, and the two separate villages on the
British and American shores began to reveal themselves to view, with the
cataract of the Sault de Ste. Marie in the distance; and a beautiful
forest of elms, oaks, and maples on either hand. We ascended with our
flags flying, our little squadron being spread out in order, and the
Canadian boatmen raising one of their enlivening songs. Long before
reaching the place, a large throng of Indians had collected on the
beach, who, as we put in towards the shore, fired a salute, and stood
ready to greet us with their customary _bosho_.[36] We landed in front
of the old Nolan house,[37] the ancient headquarters of the Northwest
Company; and immediately formed our encampment on the wide green,
extending along the river. Daylight in this latitude is protracted, and
although we had ascended a computed distance of forty-five miles, and
had had the mishap to break a canoe in the Nebeesh, there was abundant
light to fix our encampment properly. Lieut. Pierce encamped his men on
our extreme right. Leaving an interval, Lieut. Mackay's escort came
next, and our tents formed the northern line of his encampment, nearest
to the Indians. The latter occupied a high plateau, in plain view,
several hundred yards west, with an intervening gulley, and a plain,
well-beat footpath. We had, in case of difficulty, thirty-four muskets,
Pierce's command included, in addition to which, each of the savans, or
Governor's mess, were armed with a short rifle. Our line may have looked
offensively demonstrative to the Chippewas, who regarded it, from their
ancient eminence, with unfriendly feelings. These particulars are given
from the perilous position we were brought into next day.
[34] This fort was first erected by the British in 1795, the year
before Michilimackinac was evacuated under Wayne's treaty with the
Indians.
[35] From Nebee, water; hence Nebeesh, rapid water, or strong water,
the name of the rapids which connect the straits with the River St.
Mary's. This word is the _derogative_ form of the Chippewa noun.
[36] From the French _bon jour_.
[37] The present site of Fort Brady.
Meantime, we passed a quiet night in our tents, where the deep sound of
the Falls fell on the wakeful ear, interspersed with the distant
monotonous thump of the Indian täwäegon. It required but little
observation, in the morning, to explore the village of St. Mary's. It
consisted of some fifteen or twenty buildings of all sorts, occupied by
descendants of the original French settlers, all of whom drew their
living from the fur trade. The principal buildings and outhouses were
those of Mr. John Johnston, and the group formerly occupied by the
Northwest Company. Most of the French habitations stood in the midst of
picketed lots. There were about forty or fifty lodges, or two hundred
Chippewas, fifty or sixty of whom were warriors. But, although this
place was originally occupied as a missionary centre, by the Roman
Catholic missionaries of New France, about the middle of the seventeenth
century, no trace of the ancient church could be seen, unless it was in
an old consecrated graveyard, which has continued to be used for
interments. Mr. Johnston, the principal inhabitant, is a native of the
County of Antrim, Ireland, where his connections are persons of rank. He
is a polite, intelligent, and well-bred man, from a manifestly refined
circle; who, soon after the close of the American Revolution, settled
here, and married the daughter of a distinguished Indian chief.[38]
Although now absent on a visit to Europe, his family received us with
marked urbanity and hospitality, and invited the gentlemen composing the
travelling family of Governor Cass to take all our meals with them.
Everything at this mansion was done with ceremonious attention to the
highest rules of English social life; Miss Jane, the eldest daughter,
who had received her education in Ireland, presiding.
[38] INTER-EUROPEAN AMALGAMATION.--John Johnston was a native of the
north of Ireland, where his family possessed an estate called
"Craige," near the celebrated Giant's Causeway. He came to this
country during the first Presidential term of Washington, and settled
at St. Mary's, about 1793. He was a gentleman of taste, reading,
refined feeling, and cultivated manners, which enabled him to direct
the education of his children, an object to which he assiduously
devoted himself; and his residence was long known as the seat of
hospitality and refinement to all who visited the region. In 1814,
his premises were visited, during his absence, by a part of the force
who entered the St. Mary's, under Colonel Croghan, and his private
property subjected to pillage, from a misapprehension, created by
some evil-minded persons, that he was an agent of the Northwest
Company. Genial, social, kind, and benevolent, his society was much
sought, and he was sometimes imposed on by those who had been
received into his employments and trusts (as in the reports which
carried the Americans to his domicil in 1814). He died at St. Mary's,
in 1828, leaving behind, among his papers, evidence that his leisure
hours were sometimes lightened by literary employments. Mr. Johnston,
by marrying the daughter of the ruling chief of this region, placed
himself in the position of another Rolfe. Espousing, in Christian
marriage, the daughter of Wabjeeg, he became the son-in-law of
another Powhatan; thus establishing such a connection between the
Hibernian and Chippewa races, as the former had done between the
English and Powhetanic stocks.
The Sault (from the Latin _Saltus_, through the French) or Falls of St.
Mary, is the head of navigation for vessels on the lakes, and has been,
from early days, a thoroughfare for the Indian trade. It is equally
renowned for its white fish, which are taken in the rapids with a
scoop-net. The abundance and excellence of these fish has been the
praise of all travellers from the earliest date, and it constitutes a
ready means of subsistence for the Indians who congregate here.
The place was chiefly memorable in our tour, however, as the seat of the
Chippewa power. To adjust the relations of the tribe with the United
States, a council was convened with the chiefs on the day following our
arrival. This council was assembled at the Governor's _marquée_, which
was graced by the national ensign, and prepared for the interview with
the usual presents. The chiefs, clothed in their best habiliments, and
arrayed in feathers and British medals, seated themselves, with their
usual dignity, in great order, and the business was opened with the
usual ceremony of smoking the peace pipe. When this had been finished,
and the interpreter[39] taken his position, he was directed to explain
the views of the Government, in visiting the country, to remind them
that their ancestors had formerly conceded the occupancy of the place to
the French, to whose national rights and prerogatives the Americans had
succeeded, and, by a few direct and well-timed historical and practical
remarks, to secure their assent to its reoccupancy. The utmost attention
was bestowed while this address was being made, and it was evident, from
the glances of the hearers, that it was received with unfriendly
feelings, and several chiefs spoke in reply. They were averse to the
proposition, and first endeavored to evade it by pretending to know
nothing of such former grants. This point being restated by the American
commissioner, and pressed home strongly, was eventually dropped by them.
Still, they continued to speak in an evasive and desultory manner, which
had the effect of a negative. It was evident that there was a want of
agreement, and some animated discussion arose among themselves. Two
classes of persons appeared among the chiefs. Some appeared in favor of
settling a boundary to the ancient precinct of French occupancy,
provided it was not intended to be occupied by a garrison, saying, in
the symbolic language of Indians, that they were afraid, in that case,
their young men might kill the cattle of the garrison. Gov. Cass,
understanding this, replied that, as to the establishment of a garrison,
they need not give themselves any uneasiness--it was a settled point,
and so sure as the sun that was then rising would set, so sure would
there be an American garrison sent to that point, whether they renewed
the grant or not. This decisive language had a sensible effect. High
words followed between the chiefs. The head chief of the band,
Shingabawossin, a tall, stately man, of prudent views, evidently sided
with the moderates, and was evasive in his speech. A chief called
Shingwauk, or the Little Pine, who had conducted the last war party from
the village in 1814, was inclined to side with the hostiles. There was a
chief present called Sassaba, a tall, martial-looking man, of the
reigning family of chiefs of the Crane Totem, who had lost a brother in
the battle of the Thames. He wore a scarlet uniform, with epaulets, and
nourished a deep resentment against the United States. He stuck his war
lance furiously in the ground before him, at the beginning of his
harangue, and, assuming a savage wildness of air, appeared to produce a
corresponding effect upon the other Indian speakers, and employed the
strongest gesticulation. His address brought the deliberations to a
close, after they had continued some hours, by a defiant tone; and, as
he left the _marquée_, he kicked away the presents laid before the
council. Great agitation ensued. The council was then summarily
dissolved, the Indians went to their hill, and we to our tents.
[39] James Riley, a son of the late J. V. S. Riley, Esq., of
Schenectady, N. Y., by a Saganaw woman; a man well versed in the
language, customs, and local traditions of the Chippewas.
It has been stated that the encampment of the Indians was situated on an
eminence a few hundred yards west from our position on the shore, and
separated from us by a small ravine. We had scarcely reached our tents,
when it was announced that the Indians had raised the British flag in
their camp. They felt their superiority in number, and did not disguise
their insolence. Affairs had reached a crisis. A conflict seemed
inevitable. Governor Cass instantly ordered the expedition under arms.
He then called the interpreter, and proceeded with him, naked-handed
and alone, to Sassaba's lodge at the hostile camp. Being armed with
short rifles, we requested to be allowed to accompany him as a
body-guard, but he decidedly refused this. On reaching the lodge of the
hostile chief, before whose door the flag had been raised, he pulled it
down with his own hands. He then entered the lodge, and addressing the
chief calmly but firmly, told him that it was an indignity which they
could not be permitted to offer; that the flag was the distinguishing
symbol of nationality; that two flags of diverse kind could not wave in
peace upon the same territory; that they were forbid the use of any but
our own, and should they again attempt it, the United States would set a
strong foot upon their rock and crush them. He then brought the captured
flag with him to his tent.
In a few moments after his return from the Indian camp, that camp was
cleared by the Indians of their women and children, who fled with
precipitation in their canoes across the river. Thus prepared for
battle, we momently expected to hear the war-whoop. I had myself
examined and filled my shot-pouch, and stood ready, rifle in hand, with
my companions, awaiting their attack. But we waited in vain. It was an
hour of indecision among the Indians. They deliberated, doubtingly, and
it soon became evident that the crisis had passed. Finding no hostile
demonstration from the hill, Lieuts. Pierce and Mackay directed their
respective commands to retire to their tents.
The intrepid act of Governor Cass had struck the Indians with amazement,
while it betokened a knowledge of Indian character of which we never
dreamed. This people possess a singular respect for bravery. The march
of our force, on that occasion, would have been responded to, instantly,
by eighty or a hundred Indian guns; but to behold an unarmed man walk
boldly into their camp and seize the symbol of their power, betokened a
cast of character which brought them to reflection. On one person in
particular the act had a controlling effect. When it was told to the
daughter of Wäbojeeg (Mrs. Johnston), she told the chief that their
meditated scheme of resistance to the Americans was madness; the day for
such resistance was passed; and this man, Cass, had the air of a great
man, and could carry his flag through the country. The party were also
under the hospitality of her roof. She counselled peace. To these words
Shingabowassin responded; he was seconded by Shingwäkonce, or the Little
Pine. Of this effort we knew nothing at the moment, but the facts were
afterwards learned. It was evident, before the day had passed, that a
better state of feeling existed among the Indians. The chief
Shingabowassin, under the friendly influences referred to, renewed the
negotiations. Towards evening a council of the chiefs was convened in
one of the buildings of this Pocahontean counsellor, and the treaty of
the 16th June, 1820 (_vide_ Ind. Treaties United States) signed. In this
treaty every leading man united, except Sassaba. The Little Pine signed
it, under one of his synonymous names, Lavoine Bart. By this treaty the
Chippewas cede four miles square, reserving the right of a place to fish
at the rapids, perpetually. The consideration for this cession, or
acknowledgment of title, was promptly paid in merchandise.
The way being thus prepared for our entry into Lake Superior, it was
decided to proceed the next day. Before leaving this point, it may be
observed that the falls are produced by a stratum of red sandstone rock,
which crosses the bed of the St. Mary's at this place. The last
calcareous formation, seen in ascending the straits, is at Isle a la
Crosse. As we proceed north, the erratic block stratum becomes heavier,
and abraded masses of the granite, trap, sandstone, and hornblende
series are confusedly piled together on the lake shores, and are
abundant at the foot of these falls. In the central or middle channel,
the waters leap from a moderate height, from stratum to stratum, at two
or three points, producing the appearance, when seen from below, of a
mass of tumbling waves. The French word _Sault_ (pronounced _so_)
accurately expresses this kind of pitching rapids or falls. The Indians
call it Bawateeg, or Pawateeg, when speaking of the phenomenon, and
Bawating or Pawating, when referring to the place. Paugwa is an
expression denoting shallow water on rocks. The inflection _eeg_ is an
animate plural. _Ing_ is the local terminal form of nouns. In the south
or American channel, there is no positive leap of the water, but an
intensely swift current, which is parted by violent jets, between rocks,
still permitting canoes, skilfully guided, to descend, and empty boats
to be drawn up. But these falls are a complete check to ship navigation.
The descent of water has been stated by Colonel Gratiot, of the United
States Engineers, at twenty-two feet ten inches.[40] They resemble a
bank of rolling foam, and with their drapery of trees on either shore,
and the mountains of Lake Superior in the distance, and the moving
canoes of fishing Indians in the foreground, present a most animated and
picturesque view.
[40] ST. MARY'S CANAL.--Thirty-three years have produced an
astonishing progress. A ship-canal is now (1853) in the process of
being constructed at these falls, by the State of Michigan, under a
grant of public land for that purpose, from Congress. It is to
consist of two locks of equal lift, dividing the aggregate fall. This
canal will add the basin of Lake Superior to the line of lake
navigation. It will enable ships and steamers to enter the St. Louis
River of Fond du Lac, and to reach a point in latitude corresponding
to Independence, on the Missouri. No other point of the lake chain
reaches so far by some hundreds of miles towards the Rocky Mountains;
and this canal will eventually be the outlet to the Atlantic cities
of the copper and other mines of Lake Superior, and of the
agricultural and mineral products of all the higher States of the
Upper Mississippi and of the Missouri, and a part of Oregon and
Washington on the Pacific.
To the Chippewas, who regard this spot as their ancient capital, it is
doubtless fraught with many associations, and they regard with jealousy
the advance of the Americans to this quarter. This tribe, in the absence
of any older traditions, are regarded as the aboriginal inhabitants of
the place. They are, by their language, Algonquins, and speak a pure
dialect of it. They call themselves Ojibwas. _Bwa_, in this language,
denotes voice, Ojibwamong signifies Chippewa language, or voice. It is
not manifest what the prefixed syllable denotes. They are a numerous
people, and spread over many degrees of latitude and longitude. We have
had them constantly around us, in some form, since leaving Detroit, and
they extend to the Great Winnipeg Lake of Hudson's Bay. They appear, at
the French era of discovery, to have been confined almost exclusively to
the north bank of the St. Lawrence, below the influx of the Ottowa
River, extending to Lake Nepising, and the geographical position seems
to have been the origin of the name Algonquin.
Whilst encamped here, we witnessed the descent down the rapids of eleven
barges and canoes laden with furs from the north. This trade forms the
engrossing topic, at this point, with all classes. Hazardous as it is,
the pursuit does not fail to attract adventurers, who appear to be
fascinated with the wild freedom of life in the wilderness.