CHAPTER XVII.

THE MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMS.

“Proclaim unto the people a solemn pilgrimage; let them come unto

thee on foot, and on every lean camel, arriving from every distant

road; that they be witnesses of the advantages which accrue from

visiting this holy place.”—Cor’án, cap. xxii. vv. 28, 29.

There are two kinds of pilgrimage in Islam, the _Hajj_ and the

_Ziyáreh_. The first is the greater pilgrimage to the shrine of

Mecca, and this it is absolutely incumbent upon every Muslim to

perform once at least in his life. As the injunction is, however,

judiciously qualified by the stipulation that the true believer

shall have both the will and the power to comply with it, a great

many avoid the tedious and difficult journey. The second, or

_Ziyáreh_, consists in “visiting” the tombs of saints, or other

hallowed spots, and is an easier and more economical means of grace,

as the pilgrim can choose his shrine for himself. Next to that of

Mecca and Medina, the pilgrimage to Jerusalem is most esteemed by

Mohammedan devotees; and, as we have already seen, political

exigencies have, on more occasions than one, caused it to be

substituted for the more orthodox and genuine _Hajj_. While all

Muslims are enjoined to visit Mecca, they are recommended to go to

Jerusalem. Plenary indulgence and future rewards are promised to

those who visit the Holy City, and the effect of all prayers and the

reward or punishment of good or evil works, are doubled therein.

Such as are unable to accomplish the journey may send oil to furnish

a lamp, and as long as it burns the angels in the place will pray

for the sender. As for those who build, repair, or endow any portion

of the Mosque, they will enjoy prolonged life and increased wealth

on earth, as well as a reward in heaven. The Roman church is not

singular in its successful dealings with rich and moribund sinners.

The pilgrim, in entering the Haram, puts his right foot forward, and

says, “O Lord, pardon my sins, and open to me the doors of thy

mercy.” As he goes out he repeats the customary benediction upon

Mohammed, and exclaims, “O Lord, pardon my sins, and open to me the

doors of thy grace.” In entering the Cubbet es Sakhrah he should be

careful to keep the Holy Rock upon his right hand, so that in

walking round it he may exactly reverse the proceedings in the case

of the Tawwáf, or circuit of the Ka‘abeh at Mecca. He should then

enter the cave which is beneath the Sakhrah with humility of

deportment, and should first utter the formula called “the Prayer of

Soloman,” viz., “O God, pardon the sinners who come here, and

relieve the injured.” After this, he may pray for whatsoever he

pleases, with the assurance that his request will be granted.

As he is conducted about the Haram es Sheríf the various sacred

spots are pointed out to him, and when he has performed the

requisite number of prostrations, and repeated the appropriate

prayer dictated by his guide, the story or tradition of each is

solemnly related to him. Thus, on approaching the “Holy Rock” he is

told that it is one of the rocks of paradise; that it stands on a

palm-tree, beneath which flows one of the rivers of Paradise.

Beneath the shade of this tree Asia, the wife of Pharaoh, who is

said to have been the most beautiful woman in the world, and Miriam,

the sister of Moses, shall stand on the Day of Resurrection, to give

drink to the true believers.

This Sakhrah is the centre of the world, and on the Day of

Resurrection the angel Israfíl will stand upon it to blow the last

trumpet. It is also eighteen miles nearer heaven than any other

place in the world; and beneath it is the source of every drop of

sweet water that flows on the face of the earth. It is supposed to

be suspended miraculously between heaven and earth. The effect upon

the spectators was, however, so startling that it was found

necessary to place a building round it, and conceal the marvel.

The Cadam es Sheríf, or “Footstep of the Prophet,” is on a detached

piece of a marble column, on the south-west side of the Sakhrah. It

is reported to have been made by Mohammed, in mounting the beast

Borák, preparatory to his ascent into heaven on the night of the

“M‘iráj.”

Before leaving the Cubbet es Sakhrah the pilgrim is taken to pray

upon a dark coloured marble pavement just inside the gate of the

Cubbet es Sakhrah, called Báb el Jannah; some say that this is the

spot upon which the prophet Elias prayed, others that it covers the

tomb of King Solomon. All agree that it is a stone which originally

formed part of the pavement of Paradise.

A descent into the Maghárah or cave beneath the Sakhrah—a

reverential salutation of the “tongue of the rock,” a broken column

slanting against the roof of the cave—a prayer before the marks of

the Angel Gabriel’s fingers—and, if he be a Shi‘ah, a fervent

prostration before a piece of iron bar which does duty as the sword

of ‘Alí ibn Abi Tálib “the Lion of God.” These, with a few others of

less interest, complete the objects of special devotion in the

Cubbet es Sakhrah itself.

On issuing forth into the open court more wonders meet his eye.

First, there is the beautiful Cubbet es Silsileh[77] or Dome of the

Chain; it derives its name from a tradition that in King Solomon’s

time a miraculous chain was suspended between heaven and earth over

this particular spot. It was possessed of such peculiar virtue that

whenever two litigants were unable to decide their quarrel they had

but to proceed together to this place, and endeavour each to seize

the chain, which would advance to meet the grasp of him who was in

the right, and would elude all efforts of the other to catch it. One

day two Jews appealed to the ordeal, one accused the other of having

appropriated some money which he had confided to his keeping, and,

swearing that he had not received it back, laid hold of the chain.

The fraudulent debtor, who had artfully concealed the money in the

interior of a hollow staff upon which he was leaning, handed it to

the claimant, and swore that he had given back the money. He also

was enabled to seize the chain, and the bystanders were hopelessly

perplexed as to the real state of the case. From that moment the

chain disappeared, feeling doubtless that it had no chance of

supporting its character for legal acumen in the midst of a city

full of Jews.

Footnote 77:

Also called Malikemet Da’ád, or the Tribunal of David.

The place, however, still retains some of its judicial functions,

and, if we are to credit Arab historians, perjury is an exceedingly

dangerous weapon in the neighbourhood of the Sakhrah. It is related

that the Caliph ‘Omar ibn ‘Abd el ‘Azíz ordered the stewards of his

predecessor Suleimán, to give an account of their stewardship upon

oath before the Sakhrah. One man alone refused to swear and paid a

thousand dínárs rather than do so; in a year’s time he was the only

survivor of them all. The Constantinople cabinet might take a hint

from this.

On the right hand of the Sakhrah, in the western part the court, is

a small dome called the Cubbet el M‘iráj, or “Dome of the Ascent,”

which marks the spot from which Mohammed is supposed to have started

upon his “heavenly journey.” It is, of course, one of the principal

objects of the Muslim pilgrims’ devotion. The present dome was

erected in the year 597, on the site of an older one which had

fallen into ruins, by a certain governor of Jerusalem named Ez

Zanjelí.

The Macám en Nebí, or “Prophet’s Standpoint,” is celebrated from its

connection with the same event. It is now occupied by an elegant

pulpit of white sculptured marble.

At the end of the Haram Area, on the eastern side, is a spot known

as Súk el Ma‘rifah (Market of Knowledge), behind the praying place

of David. The tradition attaching to this spot is, that when any of

the ancient Jewish occupants of the city had committed any sin, he

wrote up over the door of his own house a notice of the fact, and

came to the Market of Knowledge to pray for forgiveness. If he

obtained his request he found the written confession obliterated

from his door, but if the writing still remained the poor Jew was

rigorously cut off from all communication with his kind until the

miraculous signature of pardon was accorded him. A little lower down

on the same side is a small apartment containing an ancient marble

niche, resembling in shape the ordinary Mohammedan _mihráb_; this is

usually known as ‘´Mehd ‘Eisá or “Jesus’ Cradle,” although some of

the Muslim doctors, with greater regard for the antiquarian unities,

call it “Mary’s Prayer-niche.” The pilgrim enters the place with

reverence, and repeats the _Súrat Miryam_, a chapter of the Coran

which gives the Mohammedan account of the birth and ministry of our

Lord.

By the Jámi‘ en Nisá, or “Woman’s Mosque,” forming part of the Jámi‘

el Aksa, is a well, on the left of the great entrance, called Bir el

Warakah or “Well of the Leaf.” The story goes that during the

caliphate of ‘Omar a man of the Bení Temím, named Sherík ibn Haiyán,

dropped his bucket into this well, and climbing down to fetch it up

found a door, into which he entered. Great was his surprise at

seeing a beautiful garden, and having walked about in it for some

time be plucked a leaf and returned to tell his companions of his

strange adventure. As the leaf never withered, and the door could

never again be found, no doubt was entertained but that this was an

entrance into Paradise itself, and as such the well is now pointed

out to the pilgrim.

The bridge of Es Sirát, that will be extended on the Day of Judgment

between heaven and hell, is to start from Jerusalem, and the pilgrim

is shown a column, built horizontally into the wall, which is to

form its first pier.

The Muslim guide will wax eloquent upon this, his favourite subject,

the connexion between the Day of Judgment and the Masjid el Aksa;

and as the pilgrim stands upon the eastern wall he will hear a

circumstantial account of the troubles and the signal deliverance

which shall come upon the true believers in the latter day.

Dajjál, or Antichrist, (he learns), will not be allowed to enter

Jerusalem, but will stop on the eastern bank of the Jordan while the

faithful remain on the western side. Then Christ, who will reappear

to save the true believers, will take up three of the stones of

Jerusalem, and will say as he takes up the first, “In the name of

the God of Abraham;” with the second, “In the name of the God of

Isaac;” and with the third, “In the name of the God of Jacob.” He

will then go out at the head of the Muslims, Dajjál will flee before

him, and be slain by the three stones. The victors will then proceed

to a general massacre of the Jews in and around the Holy City, and

every tree and every stone shall cry out and say, “I have a Jew

beneath me, slay him.” Having done this the Messiah will break the

crosses and kill the pigs, after which the Millenium will set in.

The last sign which is to precede the day of resurrection is that

the Ka‘abeh of Mecca shall be led as a bride to the Sakhrah of

Jerusalem. When the latter sees it, it will cry out, “Welcome thou

Pilgrim to whom Pilgrimages are made.” No one dies until he has

heard the sound of the Muezzin in Jerusalem calling to prayer.

The pilgrims to the Haram es Sheríf differ but little from those of

the Holy Sepulchre. Both endure great hardships, exhibit intense

devotion and ostentatious humility; and both believe that by

scrupulous practice of the appointed rites and observances they are

advancing a claim upon the favour of heaven which cannot be

repudiated. Both delight in assuring themselves and others that it

is love for the stones on which the saints have trodden which brings

them there, but if their satisfaction could be analysed it would be

found to consist in a sense of religious security, which a learned

Muslim doctor has quaintly expressed: “The dwellers in Jerusalem are

the neighbours of God; and God has no right to torment his

neighbours.”

As with us in Europe, the only notices of Jerusalem during the

Middle Ages are derived from the Crusaders and early pilgrims, so

the various accounts of the Holy City, with the quaint stories and

traditions attaching to it, with which Mohammed’s writings teem, are

all due to the early warriors and pilgrims of Islam.

Of these, and their name is legion, I will select a few of the most

eminent in order that the reader may form some idea of the sources

from which the Arab historians have drawn their information.

The Mohammedan pilgrims to Jerusalem range themselves naturally into

two great classes or periods, namely, those who “came over with the

conqueror” ‘Omar, or who visited the city between the date of his

conquest and the second Christian kingdom, and those who were

posterior to Saladin. Of all the Mohammedan pilgrims to Jerusalem

the first and most distinguished was Abu ‘Obeidah ibn el Jerráh, to

whom, as has already been shown, the conquest of Jerusalem was due.

He died in the great plague at ‘Amwás, (Emmaus) A.D. 639, in the

fifty-eighth year of his age, and was buried in the village of

Athmá, at the foot of Jehel ‘Ajlún, between Fukáris and El

‘Άdilíyeh, where his tomb is still pointed out. In this plague no

less than twenty-five thousand of the Muslim soldiery perished.

Bellál ibn Rubáh, Mohammed’s own “Muezzin,” accompanied ‘Omar to

Jerusalem. He was so devoutly attached to the person of the Prophet

that he refused to exercise his office after Mohammed’s decease,

except on the occasion of the conquest of the Holy City, when he was

prevailed upon by the Caliph once more to call the people to prayers

in honour of so great an occasion.

Khálid ibn el Walíd, surnamed the “Drawn Sword of God,” was also

present with the victorious army of ‘Omar; he died in the year 641

A.D., and was buried, some say, at Emessa, and others, at Medínah.

‘Abúdat ibn es Sámit, the first Cádhí of Jerusalem, arrived with

‘Omar, he was buried in the Holy City, but his tomb disappeared

during the Christian occupation.

Another interesting member of the first pilgrim band was Selmán el

Fársí, one of the early companions of Mohammed. Although he does not

play a very conspicuous part in Mohammedan history, his name has

acquired a strange celebrity in connexion with the mysterious sect

of the Nuseiríyeh in Syria. The tenets of this people are so

extraordinary and so little known that I cannot refrain from giving

a slight account of them here.

The Nuseiríyeh worship a mystic triad, consisting of and represented

by ‘Alí, the son-in-law and successor of Mohammed, Mohammed himself,

and Selmán el Fársí. These are alluded to as _‘Ams_, a mystical

word, composed of the three initial letters of their names; ‘Alí

being, moreover, called the Maná, or “meaning,” _i.e._, the object

implied in all their teaching, Mohammed, the chamberlain, and Selmán

el Fársí, the door. To understand this we must remember that Eastern

sovereigns are never approached except through the mediation of

their chamberlains; and the three offices will therefore correspond

with those of the Holy Trinity, the King of Kings, the Mediator, and

the Door of Grace. From this triad proceed five other persons,

called _aitám_, or monads, whose function is that of creation and

order. Their names are those of persons who played a conspicuous

part in the early history of Islám; but they are evidently identical

with the five planets known to the ancients, and their functions

correspond exactly to those of the heathen deities whose names the

planets bear.

The Nuseiríyeh hold the doctrine of a Fall, believing that they

originally existed as shining lights and brilliant stars, and that

they were degraded from that high estate for refusing to recognise

the omnipotence of ‘Alí.

The mystic Trinity, ‘Ams, is supposed to have appeared seven times

upon the earth, once in each of the seven cycles into which the

history of the world is divided. Each of these manifestations was in

the persons of certain historical characters, and each avatar was

accompanied by a similar incarnation of the antagonistic or evil

principle.

The devil of the Nuseiríyeh is always represented as a triune being,

and, carrying out the principle of affiliating their religious

system upon the history of Mohammedanism, they have made the

opponents of ‘Alí represent the personification of evil, as he

himself and his immediate followers are the personification of good.

Thus Abu Bekr, ‘Omar, and ‘Othmán, are considered by the Nuseiríyeh

as the conjunct incarnation of Satan.

They believe in the transmigration of souls, and that after death

those of Mohammedans will enter into the bodies of asses, Christians

into pigs, and Jews into apes. As for their own sect, the wicked

will become cattle, and serve for food; the initiated who have given

way to religious doubts will be changed into apes; and those who are

neither good nor bad will again become men, but will be born into a

strange sect and people.

The religion professed by the great mass of the Nuseiríyeh is,

indeed, a mere _mélange_ of doctrines, dogmas, and superstitions,

borrowed from the various creeds which have at various times been

dominant in the country; and yet this incongruous jumble serves as a

cloak for a much more interesting creed, namely, the ancient Sabæan

faith.

The Nuseiríyeh conceal their religion from the outer world with the

greatest care, and do not even initiate their own sons into its

mysteries until they have arrived at years of discretion; the women

are never initiated at all.

In the first degree or stage of initiation, they are made acquainted

with the doctrines of which I have given a sketch; in the second

they are told that by ‘Ams the Christian Trinity is intended; and in

the last, or perfect degree, they are taught that this Trinity, the

real object of their worship, is composed of Light, or the Sky, the

Sun, and the Moon, the first being illimitable and infinite, the

second proceeding from the first, and the last proceeding from the

other two.

The five monads are, in this stage, absolutely declared to be

identical with the five planets.

In their religious ceremonies they make use of hymns, libations of

wine, and sacrifices; to describe them in detail would be out of

place in this work, I will, therefore, only mention one, which has

an exceptional interest.

Amongst the ceremonies observed at their great feast is one called

the “Consecration of the Fragrant Herb.” The officiating priest

takes his seat in the midst of the assembly, and a white cloth,

containing a kind of spice called mahlab, camphor, and some sprigs

of olive or fragrant herb, is then placed before him. Two attendants

then bring in a vessel filled with wine, and the master of the house

in which the ceremony takes place, after appointing a third person

to minister to them, kisses their hands all round, and humbly

requests permission to provide the materials necessary for the

feast. The high priest then, having prostrated himself upon the

ground, and uttered a short invocation to certain mystic personages,

distributes the sprigs of olive amongst the congregation, who rub

them in their hands, and place them solemnly to their nose to inhale

their fragrance.

This ceremony would alone furnish evidence of the antiquity of the

Nuseiríyeh rites, for it is unquestionably the same as that alluded

to by Ezekiel (viii. v. 17), when condemning the idolatrous

practices of the Jews. In that passage the prophet (after mentioning

“women weeping for Tammúz,” the Syrian Adonis, “twenty-five men with

their backs toward the temple of the Lord, and their faces to the

east, worshipping the sun in the east,” and thus showing beyond

question that the particular form of idolatry which he is condemning

is the sun worship of Syria) concludes with the following words: “Is

it a light thing which they commit here? For they have filled the

land with violence, and have returned to provoke me to anger: _and,

lo, they put the branch to their nose_.”

The more sober Muslim historians tell us that Selmán el Fársí died

at the age of ninety-eight or ninety-nine years; but some do not

scruple to assert that he was over six hundred years old, and had

personally witnessed the ministry of Christ. Nothing certain seems

to be known of him, except that he died in the year A.D. 656, and no

reason appears for his deification by the Nuseiríyeh except the fact

that he was a Persian, and a friend of ‘Alí ibn Abí Talib. Abu

Dhurrá is another of the companions of Mohammed, deified by the

Nuseiríyeh (in whose pantheon he appears as the representative of

the planet Jupiter), and is also said to have entered Jerusalem with

the army of ‘Omar. He is buried at Medinah.

Sheddád ibn Aus. It is related that Mohammed, some little time

before his death, predicted that Jerusalem would be conquered, and

that Sheddád, and his sons after him, would become Imáms (or high

priests) there, which prediction came to pass. Sheddád died in

Jerusalem, A.D. 678, at the age of seventy-five, and was buried in

the cemetery near the Bab er Rahmah, close under the walls of the

Haram es Sheríf, where his tomb is still honoured by the faithful.

The Caliph Mo‘áwíyeh also visited Jerusalem before his accession to

the throne, and it was in that city that the celebrated compact was

made between him and ‘Άmir ibn el ‘Άs to revenge the murder of

‘Othmán. He died in Damascus, on the 1st of May, A.D. 680.

One of the most distinguished of Mohammedan pilgrims to Jerusalem

was Ka‘ab el Ahbár ibn Máni‘, the Himyarite, familiarly called Abu

Is’hak. He was by birth a Jew, but had embraced the Muslim religion

during the caliphate of Abu Bekr, in consequence, as he alleged, of

his finding in the Book of the Law a prophecy relating to Mohammed.

He is chiefly remembered as having pointed out to ‘Omar, whom he

accompanied to Jerusalem, the real position of the Sakhrah. The

following tradition is also ascribed to him: that “Jerusalem once

complained to the Almighty that she had been so frequently

destroyed; to which God answered, ‘Be comforted, for I will fill

thee, instead, with worshippers, who shall flock to thee as the

vultures to their nests, and shall yearn for thee as the doves for

their eggs.’” He died at Hums in A.D. 652.

Sellám ibn Caisar was one of the companions of Mohammed, and acted

as governor of Jerusalem under the Caliph Mo‘áwíyeh.

The position of women amongst the first professors of Islám appears

to have been much more honourable than amongst their later

successors, and the early annals of the creed contain many notices

of gifted and pious women who appeared to have exercised no small

influence over the minds of their contemporaries. One of these

distinguished females was Umm el Kheir, a freed woman of the noble

family of ‘Agyl, and a native of Basora. She visited Jerusalem,

where she died about the year 752. Her tomb is still to be seen on

the Mount of Olives, in a retired corner south of the Chapel of the

Ascension; and is much frequented by pilgrims. It is related that

Umm el Kheir, one day, in the course of her devotions, cried out,

“Oh, God, wilt thou consume with fire a heart that loves thee so?”

When a mysterious voice replied to her, “Nay, we act not thus;

entertain not such evil suspicions of us.” The precept, “Conceal

your virtues as you would your vices,” is also attributed to the

same saint.

Safíyah bint Hai, known as “The Mother of the Faithful,” was amongst

the earliest pilgrims to Jerusalem, having visited it with the army

of ‘Omar. To her is attributed the tradition that the division of

the wicked from the good on the Day of Judgment will take place from

the top of the Mount of Olives. She died about the year 670.

An anecdote related of the celebrated Sufyán eth Thorí, affords a

good example of the devotion and fervour of these early Mohammedan

pilgrims. He is said to have repeated the whole of the Coran at one

sitting in the Cubbet es Sakhrah, and on one occasion, when he had

prayed until he was completely exhausted, he bought a single

plantain and ate it in the shade of the mosque, apologising for even

this indulgence by the remark, “The ass can do more work when he has

got his fodder.” He died at Bosrah A.D. 777.

Al Imám es Sháfíi‘, one of the most learned of the Mohammedan

doctors, and the founder of one of the chief sects into which the

religion is divided. He was born in 767 A.D., the same year in which

Abu Hanífeh, the founder of the Hanefite sect, died. His works,

which are very voluminous, and considered by his followers as next

in authority to the Coran itself, are said to have been all written

within the space of four years.

The following _fatwa_, or legal decision, attributed to him during

his stay at Jerusalem, not only evinces the great erudition and

readiness for which he was so celebrated, but affords an amusing

specimen of the trifling minutiæ upon which the Mohammedan doctors

often consent to dispute. Having established himself in the Haram es

Sheríf, he professed himself ready to answer any question that might

be put to him, concerning either the Coran or the Sunneh, that is,

the written or oral law. “What should you say,” said a person

present, “respecting the legality of killing a wasp, when one is

engaged in the rites of the pilgrimage.” Without a moment’s

hesitation the Imam replied, “The Coran itself tells us that we are

to accept whatsoever the prophet hath granted us, and to abstain

from what he has forbidden us. (Coran, 59. 7.) Now, Ibn ‘Aiyinah had

it from ‘Abd el Melik ibn Amír, who had it from Huzaifah, that the

prophet said, ‘Be guided in all things by my immediate successors,

Abu Bekr, and ‘Omar.’ But Ibn ‘Aiyinah further relates that Mas‘úd

told him that Cais ibn Musallim was informed by Tárik ibn Shiháb,

that ‘Omar bade the pilgrim slay the wasp.” Es Sháfíi‘ died at

Carafah es Sughra, in Egypt, on the 20th December, A.D. 819.

Mohammed ibn Karrám, the founder of the Karramíyeh sect, resided at

Jerusalem for more than twenty years, and died there in the year 869

A.D. His doctrines are considered by the majority of Mussulmans as

heterodox and pernicious. He was said to have been buried by the

Jericho gate, near the tombs of the prophets, but neither the gate

nor the sheikh’s tomb exist at the present day.

Abu ’l Faraj al Mucaddasí, Imám of the Hambileh sect, and the

founder of that of Imám Ahmed. He is the author of very esteemed and

voluminous works upon theology and jurisprudence. He died the 9th of

January, 1094, and was buried at Damascus, in the cemetery near the

Bab es Saghír, where his tomb is still frequented by the faithful.

Sheikh Abu ’l Fath Nasr, a celebrated recluse and theologian, fixed

his residence at Jerusalem, living the life of an ascetic, in the

building to the east of the Báb en Rahmah, which was called after

him En Násiríyeh. He was a friend of the eminent philosopher El

Gházali, whom he met at Damascus. He died in the last named city in

the year 1097, A.D.

Abu ‘l Ma‘álí el Musharraf ibn el Marján Ibrahím el Mucaddeú. He is

the author of a celebrated treatise upon the history and antiquities

of Jerusalem, entitled _Fadháïl Bait el Mucaddas w es Sakhrah_, “The

Virtues of Jerusalem and of the Rock.” Little or nothing is known of

him beyond this composition; the date of his decease is also

uncertain, but it is ascertained that he was contemporary with

Sheikh Abu ’l Cásim, who was born about 1040, A.D.

This Sheikh Abu ’l Cásim er Rumailí, was a celebrated doctor of the

Shafiite sect. He established himself at Jerusalem, and was so

renowned for his great knowledge of religious jurisprudence, that

difficult points of law from all quarters of the Muslim world were

sent to him for his opinion, and his decision was always considered

final. He is also the author of an excellent treatise on the history

of Jerusalem. On the capture of the city by the Crusaders, in the

year 1099, he was taken prisoner, and his ransom fixed at one

thousand dínárs. The Muslims did not however, appear to set a very

high value upon their learned doctor, for the sum demanded for his

release was never raised; and the reverend gentleman was stoned to

death by the Franks at the gate of Antioch. Some authorities say

that he was put to death in Jerusalem.

Abu ’l Cásim er Rází was by birth a Persian, and studied

jurisprudence at Ispahan, from which place he removed to Baghdad,

and ultimately proceeded to Jerusalem, where he adopted the life of

a religious recluse. He was slain by the Crusaders on their entry

into Jerusalem in July, 1099.

The renowned philosopher, El Ghazáli himself, was also a pilgrim to

Jerusalem, in which city he composed the magnificent work for which

he is chiefly celebrated, namely the _Muhyi ’l u̒lúm_, “The

Resuscitation of Science.” He occupied the same apartments in which

Sheikh Násir had formerly resided, and the name was changed in

consequence from that of En Nasiríyeh to El Ghajálíyeh. The

building, however, has long since disappeared. El Ghazáli died at

Tús, his native town, in the year 1112.

Dhí’á-ed-dín ‘Eisá studied Mohammedan literature and jurisprudence

in Aleppo, and was attached to the court of Esed-ed-dín Shírkoh,

Saladin’s uncle, with whom he visited Egypt. On the death of the

former, it was principally owing to the exertions made by him, and

Bahá-ed-dín Caracosh, that Saladin was appointed to succeed him as

Grand Vizier of Egypt. In the year 753, Dhí’á-ed-dín accompanied

Saladin upon an expedition against the Franks, in the course of

which he was taken prisoner, though subsequently ransomed for sixty

thousand dínárs. He was a great favourite with Saladin, and, as has

been before mentioned, preached the first sermon in the Masjid el

Aksa after the conquest of the Holy City. He was of noble birth, and

great learning, and while accompanying Saladin in his “Holy War” he

combined the ecclesiastical with the military character, wearing the

armour and uniform of a soldier, and the turban of a priest. He died

during the siege of Acre, in the year 583, and his remains were sent

to Jerusalem, and buried in the cemetery of Mamilla.

Sheikh Sheháb-ed-dín el Cudsí was also a _Khatíb_, or preacher, in

Jerusalem; he was present with Saladin at the taking of the city,

and received the _soubriquet_ of Abu Tor, “The Father of the Bull,”

because he was in the habit of riding upon one of those animals, and

fighting from its back. Saladin bestowed upon him a small village,

near the Jaffa gate, in which was the monastery of St. Mark, where

he lived and died. Both the monastery and the hill upon which it

stands are now called after him, Abu Tor. It is related of him, that

when he wanted any provisions he used to write an order and tie it

on the neck of his favourite bull, which would go straight to the

bazaars and bring back the articles required.

After the death of Saladin the list of eminent Muslims whose names

are connected with the history of Jerusalem becomes too formidable

in its dimensions to admit of more than a brief notice of a few of

the most important. I will commence with the kings and princes.

El Melik el Moa̔zzem was a son of El ‘Ádil, Saladin’s brother, and

succeeded his father in the government of Syria, in August, 1218,

A.D. He was a Hanefite (departing in this from the traditions of his

house, which had all along professed the doctrines of Es Shafí‘i),

and founded a college for the sect in the Masjid el Aksa. He was a

great patron of Arabic philosophy, and erected the building called

the “Dome of the Grammarians,” on the south side of the court of the

Sakhrah; to him is also due the construction of the greater number

of carved wooden doors which adorn the Haram building, and which

still bear his name. We have already alluded in a former chapter to

the operations of this prince, and his brother, El Melik el Kámil,

against the Franks, as well as to the invasion of the Khárezmians,

and other troubles which overtook Jerusalem.

After this we hear no more of victories or crusades, and the

connection of the succeeding princes with the history of Jerusalem

is chiefly derived from their benefactions to the Haram es Sheríf. I

will mention only a few of these, whose munificence is recorded on

the numerous tablets which adorn the buildings in the sacred area.

El Melik ed Dhaher Beybers, Sultan of Egypt, visited Jerusalem in

1269, on his return from a pilgrimage to Mecca. Passing by the “Red

Hill,” between Jericho and Jerusalem, which is, according to the

Muslims, the traditional site of Moses’ grave, he erected the

building to which devotees yearly flock in crowds, to the present

day. He repaired the Mosque El Aksa, and the Cubbet es Silsilah, and

completely renovated the interior of the Cubbet es Sakhrah, which

was in a very dilapidated condition. He died at Damascus in June,

1277.

Es Sultán Calá‘ún, originally a Memlúk, purchased for one thousand

dínárs, ascended the throne of Egypt in 1279. He repaired the roof

of the Jámi‘ el Aksa, and erected a cloister called El Mansúrí, near

the Báb en Názir.

El Melik el ‘´Adil Ketbegha began to reign in 694, and repaired the

eastern wall of the Haram by the Golden Gate. Es Sultán Lajein, who

succeeded him, also executed many repairs in the mosque. Sultán

Mohammed, son of Caláó̒n, who had succeeded his father, but been

twice compelled to abdicate, at last succeeded in establishing

himself on the throne of Egypt in A.D. 1310. He repaired the south

wall of the Haram, coated the inside of the mosque with marble, and

regilded the domes of El Aksa, and the Cubbet es Sakhrah. So

beautifully was this gilding executed, that Mejír-ed-dín, writing

one hundred and eighty years afterwards, declares that it looked as

though it had been but just laid on. Even now, in the records of

Saladin’s restoration which exist upon the dome of the Cubbet es

Sakhrah, and over the Mihráb of the Aksa, the gold remains

untarnished.

Mohammed ibn Caláó̒n also repaired the arches over the steps leading

up on the north side to the platform on which the Dome of the Rock

stands, and executed many useful works in and around Jerusalem, he

died in A.D. 1340.

Es Sultán el Melek el Ashraf Sha̒bán, grandson of the preceding,

repaired the Bal el Esbát, put new wooden doors in the Jámi‘ el

Aksa, and repaired the arches over the steps on the west side of the

Sakhrah platform, by the Báb en Názir. Sultán Abu Sa‘íd Barkúk was

the first of the Circassian dynasty in Egypt, he ascended the throne

in 1382. To him is due a portion of the wood-work around the

Sakhrah.

In 1393, his lieutenant, El Yaghmúrí, came to Jerusalem, and set

right the numerous abuses which had crept into the administration of

the city in the time of his predecessor. These reforms he proclaimed

by causing an account of them to be engraved upon a marble tablet,

and hung up in the Haram es Sheríf. The governors of Jerusalem would

seem to have been rather prone to relapses in this respect, for we

find El Yaghmúrí’s example followed by many of the succeeding

viceroys.

Sultán en Násir Farj succeeded to the throne of Egypt in the year

1399, when only twelve years old. He separated the government of

Jerusalem and Hebron from that of Mecca and Medína, which had

hitherto been exercised by one official. During his reign occurred

the incursions of the Tartars, under Timour or Tamerlane.

Sultán el Melik el Ashraf Barsebá‘í, a freedman of Barkúk’s,

becoming Sultán in 1422, followed his former master’s example, and

expended some money upon the repair of the mosque at Jerusalem. He

presented a beautiful copy of the Coran to the Mosque of El Aksa,

and appointed and endowed a reader and attendant to look after it.

In the year 1447, during the reign of El Melik ed Dháher Chakmak, a

portion of the roof of the Cubbet es Sakhrah was destroyed by fire.

Some say the accident was caused by lightning, others, by the

carelessness of some young noblemen, who clambered into the roof in

pursuit of pigeons, and set fire to the woodwork with a lighted

candle which one of them held in his hands. The Sultan repaired the

damage, and also presented to the Sakhrah a large and magnificent

copy of the Coran. This prince was a great champion of the faith,

and sent his agent, Sheikh Mohammed el Mushmer to Jerusalem for the

purpose of destroying all the newly erected Christian buildings in

the place, and of clearing out the monasteries and convents. Some

new wooden balustrading which was found in the Church of the Holy

Sepulchre was carried off in triumph to the Mosque of El Aksa; and

the monastery, or Tomb of David, was cleared of its monkish

occupants and appropriated by the Mohammedans, while even the bones

in the adjoining cemetery were dug up and removed.

The so-called Tomb of David was originally a convent of Franciscan

monks, who believed it to be the site of the Cœnaculum, and their

traditions mention nothing of an underground cavern such as is now

said by the Mohammedans to exist. The tradition which makes it the

tomb of David is purely Muslim in its origin, and does not date back

earlier than the time of El Melik ed Dháher Chakmak. Oral tradition

in Jerusalem says that a beggar came one day to the door of the

monastery asking for relief, and in revenge for being refused went

about declaring that it was the tomb of David, in order to incite

the Muslim fanatics to seize upon and confiscate the spot. His plan,

as we have just seen, succeeded.

El Ashraf also gave a great Coran to the Jámi‘ el Aksa, which was

placed near the Mosque of ‘Omar, by the window which overlooks

Siloam. Sultán el Ashraf Catibáï, in the year 1472, widened and

improved the steps leading up to the platform of the Sakhrah, and

furnished them with arches like those on the other sides. He also

re-covered the roof of El Aksa with lead. A notice of the events

which happened in Jerusalem during the reign of this sovereign will

be found in the account of Mejír-ed-dín (p. 439).

The names of a great number of learned men are mentioned in the

Mohammedan histories of Jerusalem, either as pilgrims or as

preachers, cádhís or principals of colleges. Of these the majority

would be unknown to, or possess but little interest for, the

European reader, I will therefore content myself with mentioning a

few who have written upon or otherwise distinguished themselves in

connection with the Holy City.

Sheikh el Islám Burhán-ed-dín, chief Cádhí of Jerusalem, died in

1388. The marble pulpit in the Cubbet es Sakhrah, from which the

sermon is preached on feast days, was the gift of this divine. Es

Saiyid Bedred-dín Sálem, a lineal descendant of ‘Alí ibn Abi Tálib,

was also connected for some time with the Haram at Jerusalem. He was

esteemed a great saint, and was visited as such by pious Muslims

even during his lifetime. Many miracles are recorded of him, and it

is said that the birds and wild beasts came to make pilgrimages to

his tomb and those of his sons—at Sharafát in the Wády en Nusúr,

about three days’ journey from Jerusalem—and prostrate themselves

with their faces on the ground at the door of the small building

which covers the graves. They are still objects of great veneration

to Muslim pilgrims in Palestine. Es Sheikh Abu ’l Hasan el Magháferí

exercised the office of Khatíb, or preacher, in Jerusalem. He

studied the celebrated history of the city by Ibn ‘Asáker, under the

direction of its author, in A.D. 1200. Shems-ed-dín el ‘Alímí

accepted the office of chief Cádhí of Jerusalem in 1438, towards the

end of the reign of Sultan Barsebaí. An incident is related in the

notices of his life which throws some light upon the condition of

the Christians in the city. A church of large dimensions, and

furnished with a magnificent dome, existed on the south side of the

Holy Sepulchre, in close proximity to the Haram es Sheríf. This was

a favourite place of worship with the Christian inhabitants, and the

chaunting of the priests could be heard in the Cubbet es Sakhrah

itself, to the great scandal of the “Faithful.” While they were

concerting measures for putting a stop to the services without

infringing the law, an earthquake happened, which threw down the

dome of the church, and completely dismantled the building. The

Christians applied to the governor of the city and the Cádhí of the

Hanefite sect for permission to restore the building, and, by dint

of heavy bribes, obtained it. El ‘Alímí, who was Cádhí of the

Hambelite sect, was furious at this, and declared that as the church

had been destroyed by the act of God for the express convenience of

the Muslim worshippers in the Cubbet es Sakhrah, it was sheer

blasphemy to allow it to be rebuilt. An indignant letter written by

him to Cairo brought a special commissioner with orders from the

Sultan el Ashraf Einál to stop the building and pull down what had

been already erected. This was probably the commencement of the

general Crescentade against the churches and monasteries of

Jerusalem, which took place under the jurisdiction of El ‘Alímí, in

the reign of Sultán Chakmak, to which I have already alluded in my

notice of that prince. The Cádhí was also in the habit of seizing

upon the children of deceased Jews and Christians, who were

tributaries of the State, and of compelling them to be trained up in

the Mohammedan religion. The Shafiite Cádhí disputed the legality of

this, and the question was warmly disputed by the Mohammedan

doctors, both in Jerusalem and Cairo. Although the decision was not

favourable to his view of the case, he continued to follow the same

course until he was removed from the office in 1468. Amongst the

Mohammedan viceroys and governors of Jerusalem may be mentioned the

following: El Emír ‘Ezz-ed-dín es Zanjeilí, who repaired the Cubbet

el Míraj in the year 1200. El Emír Hisám-ed-dín, who restored the

Cubbet en Nahwíweh in 1207. El Emír Zidugdi was governor of

Jerusalem during the reigns of the Sultans Beibars and Cala’on. He

built a cloister by the Báb en Názir and paved the court of the

Sakhrah. El Emír Násir-ed-dín made extensive restorations in the

Haram Area, and opened the two windows in the Aksa which are on the

right and left of the Mihráb, and coated the interior of the mosque

with marble in 1330. The well-known author, Mejír-ed-dín, resided

for some time in Jerusalem, and has given us the best history of the

Holy City extant in Arabic. The following is a brief extract of his

own very graphic account of the events which happened there during

the reign of the Sultán El Ashraf Catibái, in whose service the

writer was. As a picture of the state of things in Jerusalem in the

fifteenth century it may not prove uninteresting to our readers.

In the year 1468 a severe famine occurred in Jerusalem and its

neighbourhood in consequence of the unusual drought of the preceding

winter. The people began to exhibit signs of dissatisfaction, and

matters were not improved by a quarrel which took place between the

Názir el Haramain, or Superintendent of the Two Sanctuaries (Hebron

and Jerusalem), and the Náïb, or Viceroy. These two officials came

to an open rupture, and as the Názir and his men were engaged in

laying in water from the Birket es Sultán to some buildings upon

which they were employed, the Náïb with a company of attendants came

suddenly upon them, and a fierce fight took place. The city was

immediately divided into two factions, some taking the part of the

Názir and others of the Náïb, and even the presence of a special

commissioner from Cairo failed to quell the disturbance. The plague,

with which Syria had been for some time visited, next attacked

Jerusalem, and raged from the 17th of July, 1469, until the middle

of September.

The next year (1470) was more propitious, but the great people of

the city still seemed unable to agree. On the 12th of February,

Cádhí Sherf-ed-dín came to Jerusalem, and was visited, immediately

on his arrival, by Ghars-ed-dín, chief Cádhí of the Shafiite sect.

Now Sheikh Sheháb-ed-dín el ‘Amírí, principal of one of the colleges

attached to the Haram, also happened to drop in, and, either through

ignorance or inadvertence, took a seat in the assembly above the

Cádhí. The two reverend gentlemen entered into a warm dispute, in

the course of which the Sheikh threatened to tear the Cádhí’s turban

off his head. The Cádhí retorted that the Sheikh “did not know the

meaning of a turban,” implying that he did not know how to conduct

himself as became his office. Both parties then left the assembly,

and the matter being referred to arbitration, certain learned

gentlemen adjourned to the Cubbet es Sakhrah to discuss it,

accompanied by a crowd of idlers. The people of Jerusalem,

determined to defend their fellow-citizen, attempted to decide the

question by pillaging the Cádhí’s house and maltreating his wives.

The day was a very rainy one, which circumstance increased the bad

temper of the mob, and it was at one time more than probable that

the sanctuary would become the scene of anarchy and bloodshed. In a

subsequent appeal, made to the Sultan himself at Cairo, the Cádhí

got scant satisfaction, and was so laughed at and ridiculed on his

return to Jerusalem that he was ultimately obliged to resign his

office and leave. The atmosphere of Jerusalem appears to have a

particularly unfortunate effect upon the temper of theologians.

The winter of 1472-3 was exceedingly severe, and the rains so

incessant that the foundations of the buildings were, in many

instances, undermined; three hundred and sixty houses are said to

have fallen down from this cause, but one woman, who was buried in

the ruins of her dwelling, was the only person killed.

About the end of the year 1475 the Sultan himself, El Ashraf

Catibái, performed the pilgrimage to Jerusalem on his return from

Mecca. Immediately upon his arrival in the city he held a court, on

which occasion the inhabitants crowded round him to present

petitions against the Viceroy, whom they accused of all manner of

injustice and oppression. The chief Cádhí was also included in the

indictment, as having given corrupt decisions in the interests of

the governor. The latter purchased immunity by paying off upon the

spot all claims that were made against him, and was retained in his

office by the Sultan, who, however, intimated that if a single

complaint were again made he would have him cut in halves. The Cádhí

narrowly escaped corporal punishment, and was dismissed

ignominiously from his office, and compelled to leave the city.

In May, 1476, orders came from the Sultan to arrest all the

Christians connected with the Churches of the Holy Sepulchre, Sion

and Bethlehem, in revenge for the capture of four Muslims by the

Franks at Alexandria. The orders were executed, but we are not told

what became of the prisoners. Towards the end of 1477 the plague,

which had been raging for some time in Syria, reached Jerusalem, and

lasted for more than six months, causing a terrible mortality.

In 1480 a great disturbance took place in Jerusalem in consequence

of the governor having imprisoned and put to death some Bedawín of

the Bení Zeid tribe. A crowd of ferocious Arabs bore down upon

Jerusalem determined to revenge the death of their comrades, and the

governor, who was riding outside the city at the time of their

arrival, narrowly escaped falling into their hands. Setting spurs to

his horse he dashed through the Báb el Esbát, rode across the

courtyard of the Mosque, and escaped through the Báb el Magháribeh.

The Bedawín swarmed in after him with drawn swords, utterly

regardless of the sacred character of the place. Finding that their

victim had escaped they followed the method adopted on similar

occasions by European agitators, broke into the houses and shops of

the neighbourhood and plundered all that they could lay their hands

on, and then broke open the jail and let loose the prisoners.

In 1481 a number of architects and workmen were sent to Jerusalem by

the Sultan to repair the Haram, and to rebuild the various colleges

which had fallen into decay. In 1482 a messenger arrived bearing the

Sultan’s order that the Christians were to be permitted to take

possession once more of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and

exhibit therein the customary Easter pyrotechnic display. The order

was at first disputed by the Muslim officials, but as the

commissioner threatened to indict them for contempt of authority

they were obliged to give way.

In 1491, Jerusalem was again visited by the plague; at first from

thirty to forty people died of it daily, but in a little time the

average rate of mortality was increased to a hundred and thirty.

The winter of this year was very severe, and a snowstorm occurred,

which lasted several days, and lay upon the ground to the depth of

three feet, greatly incommoding and frightening the inhabitants.

When it began to melt, the foundations of many of the houses gave

way, and serious disasters were the result.

Mejír-ed-dín’s history of this period is very diffuse, and is

chiefly devoted to an account of the various Cádhís, and other

religious or legal functionaries in Jerusalem. But the ascendency of

the Shafiite or Hanefite doctrines, or the intense devotion of an

old gentleman who had learned a whole commentary upon the Coran by

heart, are not subjects of much general interest; we have,

therefore, confined ourselves to stating the few facts above

detailed.

We ought, perhaps, to include in our list of Mohammedan pilgrims

those from whom all our information is gleaned,—Ibn ‘Asáker, and the

later Arabic writers who have written on the subject; their names,

however, and the names of their books, although of high authority to

the Oriental scholar, could have but little weight with the English

reader.

Jerusalem, the City of Herod and Saladin · 第 17 / 19 章