MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
The principle clothing of the Siamese consists of a waist-cloth called
a _"pa nung,"_ corresponding to the _sarang_ of India. It is about
two-and-one-half yards long, and one yard wide; is placed around the
waist, neatly tucked in, the two ends brought together, twisted, and
brought back between the legs and tucked in behind. Formerly this was
the only clothing worn, except a scarf thrown around the shoulders in
cool weather. The King formerly used to receive foreigners whilst
dressed in that style. Since the influx of foreigners however, they
have adopted a neat jacket with sleeves, and cut to fit tight to the
skin, and buttoned up in front. Those of the higher classes are made
of silk, but those of the common people are nothing but common white
muslin. The _"pa nungs,"_ also, of the better classes are made of
silk, whilst those of the common people are generally cotton. The
attire of the females is pretty much like that of the males, except
when they wish to dress, they have a neat yellow silk scarf which they
fold gracefully over the shoulders. The Siamese display excellent
taste in the selection of colors and figures, and have no love for the
gaudy in the way of clothing, like the Malays and some other eastern
nations. Shoes are seldom worn. The better classes have sandals or
slippers, but very likely a slave will be carrying them after the
owner, and when worn, are always thrown off before entering a house.
Occasionally however, you can see some young fellow rendering himself
ridiculous in a pair of European shoes and a European coat.
The males shave the head, except a tuft on the top, which resembles a
shoe-brush. The females do not shave the head, but clip the hair as
closely as possible, leaving the tuft similar to the males, and a
small love-lock in front of each ear.
They have a universal and disgusting practice of chewing the areca
nut. The nut of the areca palm is possessed of astringent properties
similar to the bark used in tanning. In connection with this nut they
use the leaf of the seri vine, which has a kind of pepperish taste.
They take white stone lime while yet unslaked, and mix with it the
powdered turmeric root, which turns it a crimson color. They take the
seri leaf and put on it a quantity of that red lime in the form of
paste, and then a portion of the areca nut, the leaf with the lime on
it, and some fine cut tobacco, are all put into the mouth together.
The saliva arising from such a mixture is a kind of blood-red color,
and is very copious. Their houses and walks have frequently a very
disgusting appearance, from large deposits of that red saliva having
been spit out of the mouth upon them. This process turns the teeth
black, and indeed destroys them, as the lime adheres to the teeth and
destroys the enamel, and finally they drop out by wholesale. Those who
have no teeth to chew the mixture, carry with them a small mortar, and
pound it all up together before putting it into the mouth. Both sexes
are addicted to this practice, and an exception can rarely be found.
Black teeth are an element of beauty, and besides the chewing of the
areca nut, they resort to other means of coloring. When cautioned
against thus destroying the teeth, they invariably reply that "any
monkey can have white teeth." They never go anywhere without the box
containing the ingredients for chewing. The poorer classes carry their
own, but the rich have theirs carried after them by a slave. A man's
rank is indicated somewhat by the number of slaves that follow him,
and the golden box containing the areca nut, &c., and a teapot, are
the insignia. When one person calls on another, almost the first thing
done is to set out the tray containing the chewing material, and not
to do so is considered almost an insult. The males are also all
inveterate smokers from infancy.
In going anywhere together, they never walk side by side as we would
do, but one after the other, according to rank or age. The husband
also always goes before, and his wife or wives walk behind. It is also
contrary to Siamese custom to have any one pass over their head, and
consequently they will not occupy the lower story of a house when
persons are above them on the next story. When the King goes out on
the canals in his boat, all the bridges have to be drawn, lest his
sacred head should pass under where some person had walked. No greater
insult can be offered than to take a man by the tuft of hair on his
head. It is the same as spitting in a man's face with us.
Like all heathen, and I am sorry to say too many Christians, they are
very fond of jewelry, especially the women. Their fingers are
frequently nearly covered over with rings; gold chains are also thrown
around the neck and shoulders, and a neat gold pin through the lobe of
the ear. Children wear anklets and bracelets. Those of the rich are of
gold, and quite heavy; some are of silver, and those of the poorer
classes are brass. I have seen some of the children of princes and
nobles with several hundred dollars worth of jewelry on in the form of
anklets, bracelets and gold chains, and aside from the jewelry the
body was perfectly nude.
The people are very much attached to the customs of their ancestors,
and what their fathers have done they must do, how absurd soever it
may be. _"Pen tumneum Thai,"_ it is Siamese custom, is sufficient
reason for doing anything.
The principle food of the Siamese is rice and fish. Fish are very
abundant and cheap, and become a wholesome diet for that climate. It
is contrary to their religion to take animal life, and they never kill
any animals for their own consumption, but they do not scruple to eat
anything killed by another, if they can only roll off the
responsibility of killing it. They buy pork and fowls which have been
killed and dressed by the Chinese. They also eat animals which have
died. When warned that perhaps the animal died of some bad disease
which may prove injurious to them, they will answer that it can't
stand the fire; if there is anything of the kind, it will depart when
the meat comes in contact with the fire. They also live largely on
vegetables and hot peppers. The rice is boiled, and dished out into a
large basin or platter, and placed on the floor. The meats and
vegetables which have all been cut up fine before cooking, are also
dished out into small bowls and placed near the rice. Those about to
eat seat themselves around, tailor fashion, in a circle, each with a
bowl in his hand. He takes some rice from the large dish into his own
bowl, and then uses his fingers dexterously. When he wishes any of the
accompaniments he dips his fingers into the common dish. When there is
anything like soup or gravy, they have a common spoon, and each one
takes a spoonful into his mouth, and then passes the spoon to his
neighbor, and it thus goes around. They eat with apparent ease and
enjoyment, rolling up a ball of rice in the fingers, then throwing the
head a little back, and the mouth wide open, it disappears without
difficulty. They have never attempted to improve upon the fingers. The
Chinese invented the chop-sticks, and are apparently well pleased with
the result, for they never attempt to improve upon them; but any one
who has ever seen a Chinaman slabbering and blowing over his bowl of
rice, with a pair of chop-sticks, could not but wish to see him back
again at the more primitive fingers. The Siamese think we eat with
difficulty, and rather pity us for having so much ceremony. A
missionary and his wife were out on a mission tour, and came to a
village not frequented by Europeans. They stopped at the village and
partook of a meal. They of course had a table, and table implements
with them on their boat. The natives flocked around to see the
foreigners eat, and one old woman, after watching eagerly for a time,
turned away with a sigh, remarking, _"Kow kin yak tedio,"_ they eat
with great difficulty.
Some of the princes and nobles have secured table furniture, and can
imitate European style very nicely, and some of their dinners given to
European officials are quite creditable; but when alone, they go back
again to their own mode.
They have their own ideas of politeness in their social intercourse,
and are very strict in carrying them out; but in their intercourse
with foreigners they frequently try to imitate our customs, and as a
general thing spoil both. When a man meets a superior, he either
prostrates himself on the ground, or squats down, places the palms of
his hands together, and raises them up to the face. When equals meet
they do not say "Good morning," as we would do, but "Pai nai,"--where
are you going. The other will give an evasive answer, saying, "O, I am
not going anywhere, only up here a little ways."
Their household furniture is generally meagre, consisting only of a
few cooking utensils, and mats and moscheto bars for sleeping. There
was a while that some of the higher classes manifested a desire for
European furniture, and bought it up very readily, but perhaps on
account of a nod from high quarters, there appears to be a reaction in
that quarter.
The people are generally indolent, and lazy, and very much addicted to
gambling, which is, perhaps, the ruling vice of the country. At every
gambling house groups of men and women may be seen sitting from
morning till night, and from night till morning, intently gambling.
They will gamble away everything they have, and incur large debts; and
then sell their wives, children, and even themselves into slavery, to
pay their "debts of honor." They have different kinds of games, but
that on which they stake most is a Chinese game called _po_, and is a
kind of dice.
They are exceedingly fond of theatricals, and every prince and
nobleman, who can afford it, has a theatre of his own. No festival of
any kind can be held without theatricals. Their plays are generally
some fictitious love tale, or history, and some of the actions of the
actresses are most lascivious and vulgar, but perhaps not more so than
the exhibitions of the stage in Europe and America to-day.
They are also very fond of bathing, which is perhaps very conducive to
health in that climate. They bathe regularly at least three times a
day. They always carry a cloth with them for bathing purposes. Both
sexes meet together at the common bathing place, and they slip off the
regular cloth and don the bathing cloth so dexterously that nothing
amiss can be noticed in the transaction, and then plunge into the
river, both sexes being expert swimmers. Notwithstanding their
frequent ablutions, however, cleanliness is by no means a national
virtue, and some of their habits are extremely filthy.
There are some things in which "Young America" might well pattern
after the Siamese. One is extreme reverence and respect for age. The
aged receive that reverence justly due to them in Siam, perhaps more
than in any other country. Another is love and reverence for parents.
The parent may sell a child into slavery, which is frequently done,
still when the child grows up, he never loses respect for that parent.
When a child too, commits a crime, and tries to evade the law, the
authorities at once lay hold upon the parents, which is sure to bring
the culprit back to give himself up.
Although the Chinese have more natural stability of character than the
Siamese, and are in many other respects superior to them, still the
latter are in many respects the more hopeful people. A Chinaman knows
everything, in his own estimation already, and is unwilling to learn
from any one; whilst the Siamese will pick up all the information they
can from others. Whatever they can get of European arts and sciences,
without acknowledging the authority, and especially without costing
them anything, they have no scruples about receiving.