BATTLE OF BRACITO.

_25th._--In the union of our forces we are one thousand strong. Moved

as early as usual from the position we have occupied the last three

days, and after marching 12 miles, we came to Bracito, and encamped at

10 o’clock. We stripped our horses as usual, and picketed them out;

went out to hunt wood to cook our dinners. Some of the men had gone at

least a mile from camp when the alarm was given, “_to arms! to arms!_”

Looking in the direction pointed out we saw a cloud of dust, as if the

whole of Mexico was coming down upon us. Unwilling to throw away our

wood, we ran with our turns on our shoulders, when we heard an officer

hallooing--“Throw away your wood and bring your horses into camp.” We

obeyed the order as quickly as possible. We found our Orderly at his

post, directing the men to load their guns and get into line. Every man

was at his proper place in a few minutes. By this time the Mexican

army was in sight, and had formed in battle array at a distance of a

mile from us. Presently an officer came out of their ranks, handsomely

mounted and bearing a black flag. Col. Mitchell, accompanied with the

interpreter, rode up to meet him on half way ground to inquire his

business. He told them he had come to demand the surrender of our

entire force, by submitting, he said, our lives would be spared--if we

did not, every man would be put to death. Our interpreter cut short his

harangue by telling him to “go to h-- and bring on his forces.” In the

meantime our company (the Chihuahua Rangers) received orders from head

quarters to right about face, and march from the right, where we were

somewhat protected by brush, weeds and gopher hills, to the extreme

left, in open ground to withstand the charge of the Mexican cavalry; so

off we marched in double quick time to our position on the left. Our

Captain here told us to reserve our fire till the enemy was in fair

rifle distance, and added that he hoped no man in his command would

act the coward, but all would do their duty as volunteers and American

soldiers. He had scarcely done speaking, when the enemy commenced

firing at us, from three to four hundred yards distant. They advanced

closer, and continued to advance, pouring in volley after volley, till

the sound of bullets over our heads reminded me of a hail storm.--We

waited impatiently for the word of command. It was at length given,

“fire.” One loud peal of thunder was heard from our Missouri rifles.

Consternation and dismay was the result, for, thrown into confusion,

the Mexicans commenced obliquing to our left. Another volley, well

aimed, caused them to _retreat_ towards our wagons. Here they were met

by a round from the wagon company. In the meantime Capt. Reid, at the

head of eighteen men, well mounted, pushed after them, chasing them to

the mountains. All their provisions, guns, sabres, camp furniture, &c.,

besides one 10 pound howitzer, fell into our hands. The Mexican loss

was estimated at thirty or forty killed and wounded, while we had but

two slightly wounded. The Mexicans left their dead on the field.

_26th._--With fifteen prisoners and a few wounded Mexicans, we resumed

our march, the main army being flanked on both sides, and came on 16

miles and encamped in a desolate place filled with thorn bushes. Here

we prepared our supper, and were about to sit down, when the report of

a gun from the picket guard, caused us to extinguish the fires, and

form in line as quickly as possible. Presently our Lieutenant rode up

and said it was a false alarm. We were ordered to break ranks and get

our supper. Again we commenced that unfortunate meal, when the report

of a second gun, so loud as to be heard by every one, again made us

put the fires down. There was a tremendous clattering of arms, for all

formed in line in a few seconds. At this moment Lieut. Cribbons rode up

and said that in visiting one of the outer pickets, he was requested

to give the countersign by the guard, whose gun was cocked, and he

accidentally let the hammer down too heavily, causing it to explode,

the load passing close to the Lieutenant’s face. After hearing this

statement, we again broke ranks to resume our supper. I stood sentinel,

to guard the wagons and piece of artillery taken from the enemy, till

12 o’clock, then went to bed--was awakened again at 3, and stood till 6

o’clock.

_Sunday, 27th._--Col. Doniphan wishing an early start, the roll was

called at light and we moved on in the same order as yesterday, with

front and rear guard. We had scarcely travelled six miles, when at a

distance over the river was seen a dust, as if a body of horsemen were

meeting us. We were told to keep cool and obey orders. Continuing our

course we met several Mexicans bearing a white flag. Their commander

coming up, presented Colonels Doniphan and Mitchell his sabre. They

then drank wine and other liquors together, and we resumed our march,

crossed the Rio Grande, and encamped in the town of El Paso del Norte

about night-fall. This is the noted pass between Old and New Mexico.

The town contains about seven or eight thousand inhabitants, and is

built along the margin of the river, several miles in length. The

environs are cultivated to some extent, and the usual varieties of

fruit grow here in abundance. The river is compressed in many places to

a very small compass, by the high and precipitous mountains, through

which it winds its way.

_28th._--Established our quarters a mile from the city, where there is

a large coral or enclosure, in which to keep our horses. Throughout the

day a variety of fruit was brought to camp by the natives, and readily

bought up by the soldiers. The wind was high, and we were nearly

blinded by clouds of dust, which being mixed with isinglass is very

hurtful to the eyes.

_29th._--To-day Col. Doniphan, while searching the town, found two

pieces of cannon, and after breaking several locks, a good deal of

ammunition was discovered. We all paraded and were carried through the

regular drill.

_January 1st, 1847._--The last two days being quite cold, with high

winds, we kept in camp. After the usual parade to-day, Lieutenant Todd

went to town about 10 o’clock in company with several of our men, but

they returned in a short time at full speed, hallooing with all their

might for us to get our horses quickly, and saddle up, for the Mexicans

were coming on us. In a little while we were ready and marched over

the river to join the other regiment, and prepared for battle. When we

arrived at the ground, we were formed by Col. Doniphan, who despatched

Col. Mitchell with twelve men to reconnoitre the enemy, who were

reported to be in sight. In the course of an hour, they returned and

said it was a false alarm. We then marched to the public square, and

informed by our Captain that arrangements were made to keep us in town,

and that our camp equipage must be sent for. One out of each mess was

directed to go with the wagons for that purpose. We were well supplied

with fuel at night, and our quarters were quite comfortable.

_2nd._--Nothing of importance transpired to-day. The roll was called,

and we paraded twice, morning and evening.

_Sunday, 3rd._--The usual duties being over, and a high wind

prevailing, we did not go to church. Hearing that a sick horse was in

the coral I went over to see, and found it was my mare. I brought her

out to have her bled and physicked. I went to get assistance, and when

I returned with a friend I found she had escaped; searched the town

three hours without finding her.

_4th._--Renewed my efforts to recover my lost horse; walked till three

o’clock, when I found her in the centre of a lot about two miles from

town--dead. I hastened to Col. Mitchell and told him I was on foot, as

my mare had lost breath and was laid up to dry. He advised me to look

about and ascertain if I could suit myself. If I succeeded I was to

call on him again in the morning.

_5th._--Our Orderly Sergeant in reading over the names of those to be

placed on mounted guard, cried out mine. Accordingly, I with three

others marched down to the public square, where we paraded, and dinner,

or rather supper, being over, we were placed as sentinels till three

o’clock in the morning. I then went to the guard-fire, spread down my

blanket and slept till day-light.

_6th._--To-day we were allowed two-third rations of coarse Taos flour,

some coffee without sugar, and poor mutton. We sometimes got a few

peaches from the inhabitants in exchange for tobacco, buttons, &c.

_7th._--Finding our flour nearly gone I went out and bought a baked

pumpkin to mix with it; saw much fruit exhibited for sale, but had no

money to buy any. Our scouting party which had been sent out a few days

ago, returned this evening, bringing three prisoners, a priest among

them. They were captured 12 miles down, on their way to Chihuahua, with

papers containing information of our movements to the Mexican army in

that quarter. They were placed under strict surveillance.

_Sunday, 10th._--I went to church with a number of others, and

witnessed all the ceremonies, and manœuvres of this singular people.

The church is large, and the handsomest and best built house in the

place. I saw the representation of Christ in the sepulchre, with

various other images in and near the altar. On our return we found

multitudes in the open street playing cards--sorry to say, some were

American soldiers.

_13th._--Our time begins to hang heavily. The ordinary duties of the

day are soon accomplished, and no novelty to amuse or excite, the

soldiers become restless and are ready for any excess. Our living

consists of poor mutton, the miserable Taos flour and a little coffee.

Some complain and others “hook” what they can to improve their fare.

_14th._--I was taken last night with a violent headache and pain in

the bowels. My diarrhœa having become much worse I got up and went

to the Surgeon, who gave me 15 grs. calomel, 10 do. jalap, 5 do.

rhubarb and 2 do. tartar, all mixed up together in a dose. I took this

monstrous compound and sat by the guard-fire till morning, I then laid

on my blanket and slept till 3 o’clock in the evening. Needing some

refreshment, I tried my mess, but they had nothing I could relish; I

went to Sergeant Edwards and he gave me a lump of sugar to sweeten my

coffee. I tried in vain to borrow a picayune to purchase some molasses.

At length I applied to a messmate who had come to me a few days after

my horse had died, bringing a mule, and saying if I would consent to

let him draw the rations of my horse I should have the use of this

mule. Yesterday I understood he had sent his mule away to graze, and

was _selling my corn_. When I presented my petition, he turned his back

as a refusal, and went down among the gamblers and lost every cent.

_15th._--Feeling disordered and ill, I applied early to our Surgeon,

who gave me a small lump of sugar, charging me to take particular care

of the article, as it was only intended for the _sick_. He felt my

pulse and made me swallow a large dose of salts and tartar; I then went

to my blanket.

_16th._--I awoke this morning with a high fever and headache. The

Surgeon gave me a large pill, and I was placed in the hospital, under

the particular care of a doctor, whose name I could not learn, but who

said he was from Philadelphia, and could out-practice any man in the

regiment. Wishing some coffee, he very _politely_ took a pinch of sugar

between his thumb and finger to sweeten it for me, talking the while of

“his superior skill,” &c.

_17th._--Still in the hospital, but feeling better, I applied to the

Quarter Master, who gave me four pints of American flour; I baked a

small cake to eat with my coffee. At night I spread my blanket in the

tent, and slept with my mess.

_18th._--At the sound of the reveille I arose and strolled over the

graveyard, where the remains of young Leland were interred yesterday.

This young man died of the fever prevailing among the troops, and his

grave is close to the wall, fronting an old church in ruins. Piles

of bones lay around--in the centre of some of the hills were erected

wooden crosses.

_21st._--Since Tuesday last I have been ill in the hospital, with high

fever and headache--bed hard and uncomfortable, consequently little

sleep or rest. The doctor, in his round, asked me why I was not out at

the roll-call this morning, as my name was erased, by his direction,

from the sick list. He said there was nothing the matter with me, and

he would give me no more medicine. He charged me with being home-sick,

&c. &c., with many other _tender_ and _endearing_ epithets. Weak and

quite unwell, I left the hospital and found my way to Col. Doniphan’s

quarters, I consulted Dr. Morton, who, with expressions of sympathy,

gave me the necessary restoratives. I had symptoms of jaundice, with

very sore eyes.

_26th._--I was somewhat recovered from my illness, through the humane

treatment of Dr. Morton, but I still suffered considerably from my

eyes. I felt much regret that I was prevented from joining Capt.

Hudson, who took our company on a scout, and will be gone several

days. I begin to feel weary of our detention here, occasioned by the

non-arrival of Capt. Weightman with the artillery from Santa Fe. Col.

Doniphan is hourly expecting this reinforcement.

_27th._--Last evening a fellow was caught by our outer picket guard,

who could give no satisfactory account of himself, and told so many

contradictory tales, that our Colonel sent him to the guard-house. At

ten o’clock our company returned from the scouting expedition; they

went down to the fort, 25 miles off, and found it was deserted. They

think it very likely we shall have no fighting to do at Chihuahua.

_29th._--While on guard to-day over the prisoners taken at the battle

of Bracito, I thought I would write in my journal, I searched my belt

for it in vain. It was gone!--taken out probably by some mischievous

soldier in the tent. In this book I had faithfully kept an account of

every thing _interesting to myself_ at least, since the day I left

Carroll County, Missouri. Having another blank book I commenced writing

again, but felt provoked at my loss.

_30th._--This morning, being relieved from the duty of sentinel, I

went immediately to Capt. Hudson and stated the loss of my journal. He

asked me a number of questions in relation to it, and appeared pleased

at so unusual an undertaking in a private. He went forward and told

the soldiers that Maryland’s book must be restored or every man in his

command should be searched.

_31st._--The impatience of our boys for the arrival of the artillery

has induced several to go out to meet it. This evening some of them

returned, and said it was not more than 30 miles off. To-day my book

was found on the floor of the tent. The robber was no doubt alarmed by

the Captain’s order, and dropped it in the most convenient place.

_February 1st._--We paraded early, and about 12 o’clock several rounds

from our artillery-men, just across the Rio Grande, announced the

arrival of Capt. Weightman from Santa Fe, with four six pounders and

two twelve pound howitzers. They marched in town in right order; our

men firing the salute from our piece of captured cannon just as they

reached the public square. This company is an important acquisition to

our small force.

_3d._--Early orders were received that Lieut. Col. Mitchell, at the

head of the Chihuahua Rangers, would move down to the fort to-day.

Every thing being in readiness we came on in double file, and arrived

at sunset at a pretty little village. Our provision wagons being

delayed on the road, every thing like food in this small place was had

in requisition by the orders of the Colonel, and we made our supper on

pies, cheese, bread, &c.

_4th._--This morning we were told to saddle up and hasten forward to

overtake the traders, who had disobeyed orders in preceding us; we were

ordered to bring them back. In obedience to the order we started and

travelled 13 miles. On the way we saw several Mexicans, who endeavored

to elude our observation. Our first and second Lieutenants wishing to

know who they were, and on what errand bent, gave chase. After a run of

two miles at full speed, they were overtaken and searched. One was the

alcalde from the town where we staid last night. We halted late in the

evening on the road, where we met a Mexican fully armed, gun, sabre,

&c. He was also stopped and minutely examined, but no papers being

found on his person, he was suffered to pass.

_5th._--Marched on several miles, overtook and encamped with the

traders, who had formed their wagons in a pen or coral, tried to

refresh ourselves on a supper of black bread, poor beef, and sassafras

tea, cooked over a fire of thorn bushes. The traders sell the bark of

the sassafras at $1 per pound. A small cup of the decoction cost 25

cents to-night.

_6th._--The ground was so uneven we did not erect our tents, but

spread our blankets and went to bed; the cold prevented any thing like

refreshing sleep. We arrived late at our former encampment, and found

Col. Mitchell had returned from El Paso, whither he had gone to see

Col. Doniphan. He brought news, which was currently reported there,

viz. that Gen. Taylor had been overpowered at San Louis Potosi by the

Mexicans, and was imprisoned, with 4000 regulars. Of course this was a

Mexican story, told no doubt for effect--and it had its effect upon our

boys, for it made us feel as if we could fight like lions against the

treacherous foe. We waited at this place for Col. Doniphan, who was

making every preparation for our dangerous trip. I made for my own use

to-day a pair of wooden spurs.

_7th._--This morning after roll-call and breakfast, we fed our horses

and mules, and tried to rest and amuse ourselves. At supper I made some

pancakes, without milk or eggs, unfortunately I put rather too much

_salt_ in my batter. Fifteen men were sent down the river on a scouting

expedition to-night. My name was called to be on guard, so I gathered

up my blanket and went into the line with the rest. I was placed in

first relief, near the river. I walked two hours, then went to bed at

12 o’clock by the guard-fire; I was awakened by the Corporal at three,

and stood till morning.

_8th._--Prepared my clothes by washing and mending, for our departure.

Boiled some beans and beef for my mess. The weather was very

disagreeable, and we all felt weary of our delay.

_9th._--While busily engaged fixing up to-day, Col. Doniphan came

on with the artillery and encamped near us. All is now bustle and

excitement, as it is said we shall start in the morning.

_10th._--Col. Doniphan has concluded to stay here to-day with the army,

as it is very cold and cloudy. Our boys are making desperate efforts

to amuse themselves. Among other things, our sutler is here with his

establishment, and whiskey is selling at 75 cents per pint. With some

honorable exceptions, the scene among officers and men may be much

“better imagined than described.”

_11th._--The whole of Col. Doniphan’s regiment, including the Chihuahua

Rangers, started this morning for the South to join Gen. Wool. We

marched in right order 12 miles, and encamped on the bank of the river.

_12th._--The wagons not coming in last night, some uneasiness was

expressed by our Commander, when, with fifteen others, I returned to

where we encamped the night before, and found the train just about to

move on. We passed a caravan, who told us they had lost the last night

250 mules and 50 yoke of oxen, driven off by the Indians. We came to

our camp and found cooking to be the order of the day. We are about

entering another jornada, and provisions for four days must be packed.

_13th._--Detained here to have all in complete readiness. The Indians

were at their thievish work again. Last night they drove off some

cattle and mules belonging to the traders. The skill and daring evinced

by these bands of savages exceed belief. They follow the army, and are

always prowling around our camp at night.

_Sunday, 14th._--Although on mounted guard nearly all night, I made

all the haste I could to eat an early breakfast and saddle up. I was

among the first in the ranks. Here we were told that the burial of two

soldiers, who expired last night, would only detain us a few minutes

longer. The mournful ceremony ended, we started at 8 o’clock; came on

the jornada five miles, and halted to feed our horses and mules. I was

in the rear guard behind the prisoners all day--travelled a long and

wearisome journey through the sand until 8 o’clock at night. I ate a

small piece of bread and meat, and spread my blanket at the guard-fire,

where I slept till four. I was awakened by the officer of the watch and

stood till six. I was at last relieved by the sound of the tattoo.

_15th._--12 miles further on we stopped to eat breakfast, which was a

cold cut. We again moved on, and came 20 miles through this jornada

and encamped late in the night. No water was as yet to be seen. Our

Sergeant measured to each man a half pint. One man sold his half pint

for 50 cents.

_16th._--We made an early start, and after marching 15 miles, came

to some puddles of dirty water. Our horses and mules rushed in and

drank all they could get. Ascending the hill before us a spring was

discovered, but the water was muddy and brackish. At night had a slight

shower of rain, with lightning and thunder.

_17th._--On awaking, the first thing I heard was that a man in our

company was dead. The poor fellow had left a wife and family in

Missouri to serve his country. He was taken sick at El Paso, with the

measles, and had come thus far to die. We followed his remains to the

grave, where our Captain stood forth and made an impressive speech. He

stated that “this was the third time he had been called, on occasions

like the present, to perform the mournful duty to men in his command,

and that it was wisdom for each and all to prepare for the worst,”

&c. The usual rounds were fired, and we covered poor Tolly over with

soap-weed, and filled up the grave. After trampling the dirt and

leveling the ground, we marched off in right order to this spot, where

we shall rest to-day.

_18th._--Loaned my mule to a soldier who had lost his horse, to enable

him to go in search. I was rewarded for this favor, by being compelled

to stay behind my company several hours, till he returned with his

horse. We pursued our journey two miles, and overtook the command at

a Hot Spring, which was discovered on the top of a small eminence.

It boiled up very curiously in the centre, covering the surface with

bubbles. The temperature about 100 degrees. The water is scarcely

fit to drink, having a very disagreeable taste, nevertheless, the

men filled their canteens, saying they would drink it when it got

cold enough. The country still presents a barren appearance, the soil

sterile; the surface rocky and mountainous. We marched 14 miles, and

about sunset, encamped close to a small stream, which supplied a few

poor villagers with water. The people busied themselves in preparing

for us, what they could, viz. a little muskeet brush to cook with,

and corn for our cattle. In crossing this jornada, the teamsters were

obliged to throw away 5000 pounds flour, and leave several wagons

behind--the mules being unable to proceed.

_19th._--After a journey of such length over uneven ground, the fatigue

of the army induced our Commander to remain in camp to-day. About two

o’clock the wind began to rise, and increased in violence till the

tents were leveled to the ground. We tried to cook by digging pits in

which to place the fire. The sand blowing in clouds, covered our food;

making it gritty and unpleasant to eat. As night came on, a heavy storm

of wind stripped our wagons of their covers. Quite unsheltered, we

had to do the best we could, and that was bad enough. We laid down, as

we had often done before, on our blankets. We slept uncomfortably on

hillocks and tufts of grass.

_20th._--The wind having abated, we were all in line at an early

hour--came nine miles through this ranch, to the mouth of another

jornada. Here the same scene of desolation is presented. No cultivation

to be seen any where, nor scarcely any natural vegetable production

except the thorn and muskeet brush. The days are warm, and the nights

very cold, in this region.

_21st._--Marched ten miles out to the Hot Springs, which are situated

in a ranch, and encamped. The army will here halt a day or two. The

same arrangements are to be made as before. While cooking my meat

and bread, I was informed by the Orderly, that with 18 others, I was

appointed to go before the command several miles. Hastily despatching

the meal, we mounted and rode out a long distance, where we had to

stand all night. We made a small fire of brush weed on the road side.

_22d._--I was relieved from duty early this morning by the next detail.

Feeling much disordered from loss of rest and fatigue. I was greatly

obliged to a messmate who very thoughtfully brought me some water and a

piece of bread for my breakfast. The army appearing--we went into line

by sections of four, and marched 17 miles where we encamped at a place

where the men had water; but none could be spared to the poor horses

and mules. After eating some bread, we laid down on the ground and went

to sleep.

_23d._--Without waiting for refreshment of any kind, we came on to-day

eight miles to a pond, where we watered our horses and mules--we

stopped for the poor animals to graze awhile and then proceeded three

miles, when we halted for the night at a stream of water. Several

antelopes were killed to-day. After the tents were fixed up, we boiled

some of the flesh, which made fine eating; the repast was seasoned with

a good appetite; a fast of nearly forty-eight hours, had made us hungry

enough.

_24th._--In conversation with my Captain--I expressed a wish to go

up a neighboring mountain, as I understood a large Tagoon could be

seen from its summit. He told me to go and make all the observations

I could. Having no time to lose, I commenced its ascent, by climbing

over large rocks, in which were formed several immense caves--some of

them I thought were well fitted to be the resort of robbers. At length

I found myself on the top, and set down to write. At the distance of

three miles a lake of considerable extent is seen, reposing in the

bosom of a prairie, bounded by the horizon. To the left a continuous

range of mountains loom up, whose bare and rugged tops present to

the mind the idea of coldness and desolation. The whole face of the

country is destitute of wood, and verdure, except a species of brush

or thorn bushes. Looking towards our camp, I beheld a long line of

wagons stretching along the road as far as the sight could reach. They

were all in motion, and the sight made me hasten down the mountain at

a brisk pace. It was our army preparing for a start and I did not wish

to be left “solitary and alone,” in that rocky region. In a few minutes

we took up the line of march--came 12 miles and encamped at sunset. We

saw Mexican spies at a distance. The picket guard came in and reported,

that 10,000 Mexicans were at a lake some miles off, ready to give us

battle.

_25th._--The sound of the reveille started every man to his post by

light. We moved on eight miles to the lake, and watered our horses and

mules. We saw nothing of the Mexicans. The country begins to improve

as we leave the jornada, especially on the margin of these lakes or

ponds, the water of which is brackish. Here prairie grass grows with

some luxuriance. Kindling a fire, the soldiers commenced baking bread,

made from the wretched native flour, now our only fare. A high wind

prevailing--sparks were carried out, which set the dry brush and weeds

in aflame. The Chihuahua Rangers had orders to subdue the fire, and we

commenced threshing it out with our blankets, but the wind increasing

we found it useless labor. The flames continued to increase in spite

of us. The whole command was put in action with their horses, beating

a track, to stop the progress of the fire. Unfortunately for us, the

fire caught the grass on the other side of the track, and the wind

blowing tremendously, the fire was carried in almost every direction.

We then encamped on the burnt ground, off of which the grass had been

burnt, and picketing our horses on the left of the road in the prairie,

we laid down to rest. In a few hours we were awakened to bring our

horses in, for the whole prairie was on fire. Coming out of my tent, a

sight appeared of such magnificence as had never before met my eyes.

It was an opposite mountain on fire, and the whole prairie, as far as

the eye could reach, in flames. A strange glare tinged the clouds, and

all surrounding objects, and presented a scene which was fearfully

grand. It consumed nearly all the grass in the country 15 miles towards

Chihuahua.

_26th._--We continued winding through the mountain passes and plains

16 miles. Our advance found a coral to-day, in which were 50 sheep

and 15 cattle, driven in from the surrounding neighborhood. They were

immediately butchered for the command, the soldiers being nearly

exhausted for want of food. This was a dreadful day for our march. The

wind was so high that we could scarcely see a hundred yards ahead.

_27th._--The artillery and wagons were kept in front all day, the whole

army being formed in two lines in the rear. We marched in right order

8 miles, and encamped on the margin of a lake. Here we shall halt

till to-morrow. Scouts were sent out in every direction. I was busily

engaged all the evening writing for our boys, who believe themselves

to be on the eve of some engagement with the enemy. Saw several of our

men come in, leading a horse--soon learned that spies being seen by

our advance, Capt. Skillman of the traders’ company, and Capt. Parsons

of the E company from Cole County, with others gave chase and overtook

one. The fellow finding he was likely to become a prisoner, leaped off,

and fled up the mountain leaving his horse and all his rigging behind.

He was elegantly mounted. Col. Mitchell has just informed us that a

battle will be fought to-morrow.

[Illustration: BATTLE OF SACRAMENTO.]

_Sunday, 28th._--At sunrise this morning, we took up our line of

march, having learned from our spies that the enemy in great numbers,

had fortified the pass of the river Sacramento, about 15 miles off.

Our train consisting of 315 traders’ wagons, and our Commissary and

company wagons, in all about 400, were formed into four columns, so

as to shorten our lines. The whole command marched in right order

between the columns, thus concealing our force from the enemy. When we

arrived within three miles of their entrenchments, Col. Doniphan made a

reconnoisance of their position, and examined the arrangement of their

forces. This was easily done, as our road led through an open prairie

valley between the high mountains. The pass of the Sacramento is formed

by a point of the mountains on our right, their left extending into

the valley, so as to narrow the valley about one and a half miles. On

our left was a deep, dry channel of a creek, and between these points,

the plain rises abruptly about 50 or 60 feet. The road passes down

the centre of the valley, and in the distance we had a full view of

the Mexican army. On the point of the mountain, they had a battery of

four guns, so elevated as to sweep the plain. On the left, there was

another battery commanding the road, with six pounders and rampart

pieces, mounted on carriages. Their cavalry was drawn up in front of

their redoubts, in the interval of four deep. When we had arrived near

their entrenchments, our columns suddenly diverged to the right, so

as to gain the elevation, which the enemy endeavored to prevent by

moving forward with four pieces of cannon and 1000 cavalry. But our

movements were so rapid, that we not only gained the eminence, but

were formed in order for their reception. Our company (Capt. Hudson’s)

now dismounted, and every eighth man was detailed, to hold horses and

mules. It fell to my lot to hold eight mules. The action now commenced

by a brisk fire from our cannons, doing considerable execution at the

distance of twelve hundred yards, killing fifteen of the enemy, and

disabling one of their guns. Our fire was briskly returned from 14

pieces of artillery, sending ragged balls, and heavy copper ore. But

being badly aimed they struck the ground about forty or fifty yards

before us, and rebounding passed over our heads without harm, except

slightly wounding two men, and killing several horses and mules in

the rear. Our guns were so well aimed as to compel the enemy to fall

behind the breastworks. We resumed our march in our former order,

diverging as much as possible to the right, to avoid a heavy battery,

and their strongest redoubts, which were on our left, near the common

road. After marching as far as we thought it prudent, without coming

in range of their heavy battery, Capt. Weightman of the artillery, was

ordered to charge it with two 12 lb. howitzers, to be supported by the

cavalry, under Captains Reid, Parsons and Hudson. We then remounted

and charged the battery from right to left, with a brisk and deadly

fire from our rifles. We then advanced to the very brink of their

redoubts, and drove them out with our sabres. The enemy now fell back

on their centre battery, where they made a desperate rally, and gave

us a shower of balls and copper ore, which whizzed over our heads

without doing us any injury except wounding several men and killing

a few mules and horses. Major Clarke was ordered to commence a heavy

fire upon this battery, which being well directed, together with the

rapid advance of our columns, put them to flight over the mountains

in utter confusion, leaving all their cannons, and the ground strewed

with their dead and wounded. Thus ended the battle of Sacramento,

which commenced about three o’clock, and ended about sunset. The

enemy numbered 4220 rank and file, and lost 300 killed 500 wounded,

beside 40 prisoners. The American force consisted of 924 effective

men, 1 killed, 11 wounded. Our success is to be attributed entirely

to the superior skill of our commander. Had he not taken advantage

of position, in keeping out of range of redoubts and batteries, we

should all have shared a common fate, as the black piratical flag was

captured, together with a wagon load of that formidable weapon, the

lariat, which was intended to tie us all to our saddles in case of a

defeat. The Mexicans lost ten pieces of artillery, varying from five

to ten lbs. and seven one lb. culverines. One of the cannon is very

valuable, being composed of silver and brass melted together. They also

lost all their baggage, ammunition, &c., and provisions enough to last

us three months were found in their wagons, together with $4000 in

specie. It was gratifying to see the soldiers shaking hands with their

officers after the engagement and tendering their congratulations to

their commander for his skill and bravery displayed on this memorable

occasion. The Surgeons are now busily engaged in administering relief

to the wounded Mexicans, and it is a sight to see the pile of legs

and arms that have been amputated. The cries and groans of the poor

fellows, are distressing in the extreme. It is a fact, worthy of note,

that the atmosphere here in this mountainous region is so perfectly

pure and clear that a cannon shot can be seen coming, when it is a

considerable distance off, by leaving a blue streak in the air. Many

a soldier saved his life in the battle by dodging the balls as they

came forward. When a flash would be seen from the enemy’s battery, you

could hear the soldiers cry out--“watch the ball boys!--here comes a

ball boys,” and they invariably avoided them, or the slaughter must

have been very great. I saw a ball coming in the direction where I was,

when immediately falling off my mule, it passed just over my saddle

without injury. Our rapid movements seemed to astonish the enemy. Our

four pieces of flying artillery, discharging five times in a minute,

volleys of grape and canister, with chain shots, would rake the

enemy’s redoubts and cut roads through their lines, while our 12 lb.

howitzers throwing a constant shower of bombs into the middle of their

entrenchments, and the unerring aim of our Mississippi rifles, acting

in concert; cast terror and dismay among the cowardly and unprincipled

foe. Our men acted nobly, and in the hand to hand fight in the redoubts

they fought to desperation. Lieutenant Sprawl, our 2d Lieutenant, a man

over six feet high with bared arms, and without his hat, his longhair

and beard streaming in the wind, with sword in hand, was charging the

enemy at every point, when a ball struck his splendid charger, and

he fell. But seizing his carbine he kept up with us on foot. Another

of our men, being unhorsed, and fighting near me, was attacked by a

Mexican who was about to lance him, and the poor fellow’s gun being

discharged, he picked up a rock, and throwing it, struck his enemy on

the head, which felled him to the earth, when he knocked his brains out

with the butt of his gun. These were but common occurrences in that

hard contested fight, where we had to contend with nearly five to one.

_March 1st._--After spending a comfortable night, feasting on the

good things of our enemy, and making our prisoners bury the dead, we

started with the remains of Major Owings, and after marching four miles

encamped. My mule having received a wound in the loins yesterday,

cannot be found this morning, so I borrowed one of the Commissary.

_2d._--Placed on mounted guard to precede the army, whose entrance in

the city will take place to-day. Came ten miles; saw the spire of the

Cathedral towering in the distance, with peculiar feelings of delight.

A merrier group could scarcely be pictured than our worthy Col.

Mitchell and his escort. We entered the beautiful city of Chihuahua

about 12 o’clock, and proceeded immediately to the plaza or public

square. The inhabitants are polite, and manifest in various ways the

utmost complaisance, and regard to our soldiery. Of course we see

the fairest specimens of the Mexican character here, and afford us

evidences of superior intelligence, comfort and industry. While the

soldiers were scattered in various directions, seeking refreshments,

I took a walk alone, and seated myself in a quiet nook, fronting the

Cathedral. It is an imposing structure of white marble. It was about

fifty years in building--the production of a gold mine, and cost _three

million dollars_. I felt too much fatigued to write a long description

of even a beautiful church, although, had it been otherwise, such

employment would have been pleasant to me. The tones of the bell are

grand. It strikes the hour, and can be heard at a great distance. At

sundown Col. Doniphan arrived in town with the rest of the command,

all in fine order. The band was playing Washington’s March--just as we

reached the public square, the tune was changed to Yankee Doodle, when

there was a general huzza. We then marched through the town and took up

our quarters on the outskirts. I was placed on picket guard and had to

be up all night--first to watch the prisoners, and then to walk my post

three hours.

_3d._--All is now tranquil. The funeral of Major Owings took place

to-day. Every thing was conducted with the utmost decency and order.

_4th._--This morning I sallied forth for a ramble. I went through the

thickest parts of the city, which I should judge contained about 40,000

inhabitants. The streets cross at right angles, and the houses are

mostly built of the usual sun-dried brick, in Mexican style, with flat

roofs, and close barred windows, as if intended for defence against

street assaults, or rival factions. I was, afterwards, introduced

to some senoras, and drank some coffee with them--they using the

_ardiente_, instead of cream in theirs.

_5th._--Passing near the public square I encountered Col. Mitchell,

with several officers on horseback, before a handsome building. The

Colonel was earnestly engaged in conversation with a man, who, it

appeared was an Englishman. I soon learned that our Colonel wished to

search the building, but the English gentleman said he should not.

I was called on, with several others who were standing near to form

ranks, and go at once and arm ourselves. We ran to our quarters, and

soon returned well equipped. I had not been in the line more than a

minute, when I saw my entire company, the Chihuahua Rangers, come up.

I, of course, left my position and with them paraded before the house.

The Englishman being still very stubborn and refusing to give up the

keys, the Colonel ordered two pieces of artillery to be brought down

immediately and placed before the door. Turning to look for the man,

I found he had escaped to the top of a house, not far off, where he

stationed himself to watch our movements. He no sooner espied the

cannon, than he ran down in great haste, begging for a few minutes to

open the door, saying “somebody might be killed,” &c. We then entered

peaceably. Magoffin, the trader, whom the authorities of the city

had condemned to death as a traitor, cannot be found. On inquiry, we

learned that he had been sent to Durango. But several are of opinion,

that he has been killed.

_6th._--I went to the Secretary’s office and wrote letters to my

sisters in Maryland.

_10th._--For several days past we have been relieved from all extra

duty, only answering to the roll-call night and morning. I have been

busily engaged to-day writing letters for different persons.

_17th._--During the past week I have had no time to write in my

journal. I have been busy in writing letters for others, and assisting

in writing out requisitions, &c. I received to-night the first number

of the “Anglo Saxon,” a paper printed by our boys, and the first

American newspaper ever published in Chihuahua. On Wednesday the 15th,

the express started from here for the United States. Many weary months

have passed, and we have heard no tidings from home and friends. Truly

a soldier’s lot is a hard one.

_19th._--I had a chill last night, which ended in a fever. I felt

thankful that I was favored with every attention from Lieut. Sprawl,

who is as kind and generous as he is brave. A few hours sleep recovered

me in some degree from the stupidity in which the fever left me,

and I arose from the stone floor refreshed. I went to church, which

was opened for Mass, but soon returned with a headache, longing for

the simple and sweet worship of my own church at home. An express

consisting of twelve men was sent on to General Taylor to-day.

_20th._--I took a stroll through the town--went down to the American

Hotel to learn what news was stirring. Nothing is heard from the South.

_23d._--We have at this time all that is necessary for our comfort,

and nothing to do but attend to our slight duties, and the care of

our mules and horses. A strict guard is kept. The captured cannon is

in charge of the non-commissioned officers, and our company has to

practice target shooting. Being number four I have to touch off the

guns. The concussion jars my head so much that I have to place a quid

of tobacco in _each_ cheek, to prevent it from injuring my teeth, which

are very sore. The companies are all well disciplined, and with our 25

pieces of artillery, Col. Doniphan says he would defy 10,000 Mexicans.

When not on duty, our men resort to every kind of mischief by way of

amusement. Two pieces of artillery found at this place, were by them,

on yesterday, dismounted and blown up. They were filled with powder and

plugged, and the muzzles being buried in the earth several feet, a slow

match was applied. The reports were terrific. They have also burnt all

the powder. A train, nearly one-fourth of a mile in length, was made

and set off, and which ignited several barrels at its termination. The

poor affrighted Mexicans, meanwhile, ran off crying “no wano, no wano,”

(very bad, very bad.) Another species of fun, consists in collecting

all the dogs that can be found during the day, and carefully shutting

them in a room; at night each dog is brought out, and a large bundle of

fire works fastened to his tail. He is then let loose, amid the general

halloo; and being enveloped in sparks, accompanied with the noise of

small fire arms, wherever he runs in the crowded streets, the Mexicans

fly before him with the utmost consternation.

_Sunday, April 4th._--This was the appointed morning for us to leave

Chihuahua for the south. But, on account of a bull fight, our trip is

postponed. As soon as church was over, the soldiers hastened to see

this great sight. As I was conscientious in regard to the violation

of the Sabbath, I, of course, staid behind; I was, however, informed

by the men on their return, that five bulls were let loose, but none

were killed. If they cannot strike the animal in some vital part,

they are obliged to let him live. The blows were badly dealt and the

bull escaped. This is a strange mixture of christianity with the

barbarities of heathenism. Card playing, cock fighting, bull baiting,

and dancing, are the chief amusements of these people, and they are

always accompanied with excessive drinking, not unfrequently with

quarrelling and fighting, in which the belligerents are bruised, their

limbs broken, and their lives sometimes destroyed. What an idea of the

character of God must be entertained in the midst of such performances?

He can hardly be regarded as a God of love, whose delight is in the

upright walk and chaste conversation of his people. The service of that

blinded population, comports better with what we might suppose would be

the worship of the devil, were such worship distinctly ordered. Alas!

for the darkness in which so many of our race are enveloped!

_5th._--The wagons were loaded for our long journey--but a difficulty

in getting our soldiers together detained us till two o’clock, P. M. At

length, every thing being in readiness, we started out of town. Some

of our men imagined themselves commanders in chief, assumed to give

orders, and were otherwise troublesome. We succeeded in reaching a

ranch, twelve miles off, and encamped.

_6th._--Moved on twenty-five miles, and stopped at a ranch late in the

evening. Putting our horses in a clover field--we spread our blankets

on the ground and rested till morning.

_7th._--After accomplishing another 25 miles to-day, we erected

our tents close to the walls of a town. Here we were joined by two

strangers, who said they came from a coral, 140 miles off, to inform

us that a large Mexican force of about 10,000 soldiers were on their

way to re-take Chihuahua. They also stated, that Generals Taylor and

Wool had gone far to the south, in the direction of the city of Mexico.

These men being native Americans induced our Colonel to listen to their

story, which, if true, would have placed us in a bad situation. With

one half of our command left behind at Chihuahua, we could be easily

cut off from this point.

_8th._--This morning we had orders to start back to Chihuahua. After

marching 25 miles reached the second ranch, and encamped.

_9th._--Our Sergeant woke us all at two o’clock to get our breakfast,

and make an early start. We travelled briskly 36 miles, and arrived at

Chihuahua about four o’clock. Here we are again in the city, at our old

quarters.

_14th._--I have been employed in writing for our Surgeon, and others,

for several days past. Yesterday we heard that Vera Cruz was taken by

Gen. Scott. Twenty-eight rounds were fired by our artillery-men.

_15th._--I witnessed to-day the mode of punishment among the Mexicans,

and felt disgusted at the sight. Offenders are tied to a tree and

severely lashed for different offences. I saw several whipped to-day

for horse stealing. At night it commenced raining. The first rain

since we have been in the city. I was too sick to perform the duty of

sentinel.

_16th._--The morning air being clear and cool I took a walk to relieve

the excessive languor I feel. I have little or no appetite, and my

spirits are very much depressed. I went to the American Hotel, where a

great many questions were asked me. While there I read an advertisement

of a grand ball to be given on Sunday, 18th, entrance $2. It is really

distressing to contemplate the desecration of the Sabbath in this

country. Oh! how I long to be once more in a truly christian land, and

among congenial spirits.

_Sunday, 18th._--Various exhibitions encountered at every step

throughout the city to-day. Sunday as it is, gambling is the most

prominent. At night the greater part of our men went to the ball.

_19th._--Drew off some writing for our Doctor; afterwards, with a

messmate, took a bath in the river--still quite sick, and nothing

to eat, but poor beef, with bread and coffee. This stone floor is

particularly hard to rest on.

_24th._--I went with a Mexican to see the _prison_. He was very polite

and accommodating; he took me through the cells, and showed me the

blocks, and chains, handcuffs, lariats, &c. that had been prepared to

keep all the prisoners safely, which they expected to have taken in the

battle. They were to have been kept here until they could be marched on

foot to the city of Mexico. But they counted their game a little too

soon! The prison is the darkest and most gloomy place I ever saw.

_Sunday morning, 25th._--Just as the church bells began to ring, our

men geared up their mules, and at 11 o’clock, two companies started

out of town with the artillery, and arrived about three o’clock at the

first ranch.

_26th._--An early start took us to the second ranch 25 miles. To-night

our second battalion came up.

_27th._--After marching 36 miles to-day we came to a town called Santa

Cruz, where we encamped.

_28th._--We lay by here, and wait for the rest of the army, which will

start from Chihuahua to-day.

_29th._--At day-break we set out, and after marching 21 miles came

to Sousilla, a town situated on the river Couchas, which is, at that

place, a considerable stream. I went with one or two hundred others,

and took a refreshing bath. At night I cooked a supper of coarse

bread, beef and coffee, with the materials of a coral, which we tore

down.

_30th._--Still travelling on the Rio Couchas. Passed a town called

Los Cruezas, and at the end of 28 miles encamped at the town of San

Rosalia. Col. Doniphan’s first battalion came up to-night.

_May 1st._--At the sound of the reveille all went in line, and after

roll-call our captain told us to get our arms in good order for

inspection at nine o’clock. Every man was soon busy firing off loaded

guns, cleaning out, &c. To-night I went into town and brought a welcome

repast for my mess, viz. pork-steak and nice bread.

_2d._--Our Captain, after calling the roll, told us that the reveille

had sounded thus early for a company to go in advance. Came out a few

miles and stopped to inspect a fort the Mexicans had erected to keep

Gen. Wool from marching to Chihuahua. It is nicely finished off, with

port holes for their batteries, &c. The building covers nearly an

acre of ground; but every thing is silent; the place being entirely

deserted. A fatiguing march of 27 miles brought us to a ranch called

Remado, where we passed the night.

_3d._--The country is still barren between these ranchos, which are

always found in fertile valleys, mostly inhabited. Some muskeet brush

was all we could find on our road to-day; no verdant carpet of grass to

relieve the eye from the strong glare of the rays of the sun pouring on

the sandy plains as we pass along. A late hour brought us to a large

town called Huadaquilla, on the Rio Florida. We travelled 30 miles

to-day.

_4th._--At ten we left--came out six miles and encamped. On our way

we saw several monuments erected to various saints. A pile of rocks

marks the grave of one great personage. In the centre of the pile is

erected a cross, adorned with artificial flowers. The country around

this town is cultivated; provisions are cheap and plenty. All the

soldiers are now engaged in packing provisions and water; the latter

precious article, it is said, will not be found again till 65 miles are

passed over. At four, P. M., we came on and travelled 25 miles in this

jornada, and laid ourselves down to sleep in the sand, after taking a

cut of meat and bread at nearly 12 o’clock.

_5th._--By the time it was light our Orderly came around to arouse us

to roll-call. Some poor fellows, half asleep, staggered off into the

ranks. We started and marched 40 miles through a thick dust, when we

came to a pond of brackish water, which is sometimes found in these

deserts. Here we halted for the night. The water was quickly drunk by

our famishing boys, notwithstanding it was a disagreeable mixture of

salt and sulphur.

_6th._--The fatigue and sufferings of yesterday were not allayed by

a report in camp that several thousand Mexicans were lying in wait a

few miles ahead, in order to cut off our artillery. We marched on ten

miles and stopped on the banks of the Rio Cerro Gordo, where we have

tolerably good water.

_7th._--I arose from the guard-fire, where I had been stretched the

last three hours dull and sleepy, having been on duty all the former

part of the night; I went to my mess, whom I found eating breakfast.

As soon as we got through, our command started and travelled 30 miles.

Here we stopped at a ranch, near which are several springs bursting

from a bank, the water of which is very clear, but very warm, and of

a most disagreeable taste. A few hundred yards from the camp we saw a

large deserted fort, also a coral, which our boys tore down to cook

with. The face of the country has nothing to recommend it, but a vast

variety of cactus, beautifully in bloom all over the sandy plains.

Covered with dust, I found a bath in the hot springs very refreshing

to-night.

_Sunday, 9th._--Pursued our way uninterruptedly the past two days and

travelled 40 miles. At night we encamped at a town called Mapemilla.

At our approach the inhabitants fled to the mountains. It was a fine

night, and their fires in the distance, dotting the mountain side, had

a singular and romantic effect. News met us here that Gen. Scott had

whipped Santa Anna, which caused Col. Doniphan to fire a salute of 29

rounds.

_10th._--At 3 o’clock this morning the reveille sounded. A little

coarse bread, and coffee without sugar, constituted breakfast, on which

we travelled 30 miles. We halted late at night at a ranch called San

Sebastian, on the Rio Mosas, a stream sufficiently large for swimming.

It was soon covered with our soldiers enjoying this rare luxury.

_11th._--At an early hour we had to bury two of our men, who died

yesterday. They were found last night (after our fatiguing march of 30

miles) dead in the wagons. They were buried in a warlike manner. We

crossed the river two miles below the town, and pursued our route 30

miles to another village, called San Lorenzo. Here we encamped, but

suffered much inconvenience from want of water, having to use it very

sparingly. To-night another grave was opened for another of our men.

_12th._--As usual, our whole command was put in motion at three

o’clock, and after marching seven miles through a thick dust, had

orders to halt and turn back, for we had left the right road behind.

Our army turned about and travelled several miles until we got right.

At the end of 18 miles we encamped on the Rio Mosas. Here, unable to

join the swimmers from a violent attack of ear-ache, accompanied with

a most painful sore mouth, which latter I have suffered with since

leaving Chihuahua, I went to a Dutch surgeon for advice. He looked in

my mouth a few seconds, and with an air of confidence declared that

_nothing ailed me_. I determined thereafter to bear my pains like a

hero, and almost vowed that I would never pester a Dutchman either for

his sympathy or his prescriptions.

_13th._--This morning we started early, and after travelling 30 miles

reached a ranch. The first objects that met our eyes were six Indians

lying dead. They had been killed by our advance guard of about 30 rank

and file, under Capt. Reid. The guard was unexpectedly attacked by a

body of Indians, which they repulsed, after killing 13 of their number,

with their chief. He must have been a desperate warrior, for even after

he was shot down, and to the last moment of his life, he tried to use

his bow and arrows. These fellows were seen coming from a gap of the

mountain, some distance off, making direct for our little party, who

went out at full gallop to meet them. A discharge of arrows was met by

a volley from our men. A considerable skirmish now ensued. The Indians

raising the war-whoop, rushed on them, discharging their arrows with

incredible rapidity; but they were forced to retreat, and these bodies

were dragged hither as trophies.

_14th._--About one o’clock in the night, while our wearied soldiers

slept, two guns were heard. In an instant our Captain jumped to his

feet, and hurriedly went over the ground to wake us all up. In a few

moments every man had on his arms. After waiting some time for the

enemy, news came that one of the Lieutenants was shot through the

hand. It appears that this Lieutenant was officer of the night, and in

his rounds, tried to take a sentinel by surprise. Creeping stealthily

on the ground to the spot, he was told by the sentinel to stop and

give the countersign. No answer being returned, he fired. As soon as

he found that he was shot in the hand he returned the charge on the

sentinel. But no one can tell as yet who this watchful sentinel is. I

made up a fire to prepare coffee. At two o’clock the reveille sounded

for all to saddle up. At four we started, and after marching 25 miles

came in sight of Parras, a large city. Our Adjutant chose a place for

us to encamp, which is in a beautiful grove of ornamental cotton trees.

The scene is new and pleasant. Here are trees, green cornfields, and

running streams. The gardens in and around the city are beautifully

arranged, and _tastefully_ supplied with ripe apricots, oranges and

lemons; also a great variety of flowering shrubs and plants.

_15th._--We are to pass a day or two here I believe, resting from our

long travel. This morning one of our wagon drivers, who is a sailor,

went up town, and by some means, most unfortunately, offended several

of the Mexican gentlemen. Complaint was made to the alcalde, who

ordered Jack to be taken to the caliboose and flogged, going in person

to see it done. But Jack knocked him down and broke his sabre in

pieces--whipping several others who came to the rescue, and finally

walked off to camp completely victorious. Word was brought to Col.

Doniphan about the conduct of his man, who gravely told the people that

if Gen. Wool could do any thing with his men, it was more than he could

with his. He said it was now too late for him to keep them in order,

therefore, he should leave on Monday.

_Sunday, 16th._--Preparations are going on in different departments

for the renewal of our march to-morrow. The expectation of soon

encountering Generals Taylor and Wool, appears to inspire our men with

a desire to look decent. Old clothes are being washed--sundry holes in

deerskin pants are in the process of repair, and I think we shall not

look so very ragged, after all.

_17th._--Moved out of town at three o’clock, P. M. After marching

five miles through a broken, bare country, we came to a house, whose

_shingled_ roof indicated that its builder had been educated in the

United States. We found it even so, although the man was a Mexican.

We made a journey of 25 miles to-day, and had a supper of excessively

tough beef, and coarse bread.

_18th._--On our way, very early, as usual--made 18 miles with a severe

ear-ache, from which I have suffered almost constantly for several

weeks past. Strolling out after the tents were fixed up, I saw some

soldiers walking along with a man in front, whom I learned they were

about to drum out of service. He proved to be a teamster, and not a

volunteer. He had, without provocation, struck several Mexicans in

Parras. The alcalde sending on an express to Gen. Wool for protection,

induced Col. Doniphan to settle the business thus. He was made to walk

before three armed men, behind whom, several bugles performed a doleful

ditty. When they arrived at the outskirts, the Captain ordered a halt,

and proclaimed that the man was drummed out of service for misbehavior.

Whereupon he ordered the men in front to kick him. The punishment

having been inflicted, the poor fellow was turned off, to find a

shelter where he could.

_11th._--To-night we are encamped at a ranch, almost overflowed with

water which is coming down in a rush, in consequence of a heavy rain in

the mountains. Made to-day 25 miles.

_21st_--Yesterday and to-day we pursued our journey without

intermission. At night we encamped where Gen. Wool had stationed 1000

men as picket guard. We received a treat in the shape of nice American

flour and mess pork, as rations.

_22d._--I rode with several others to Gen. Wool’s camp. On the way we

passed over the battle ground of Buena Vista, and saw the remains of

hundreds of Mexicans thrown in heaps and covered over with cactus.

These remained undisturbed by the wolves while they had disinterred our

buried Americans and devoured them; these animals make a practice of

keeping in the rear of our advancing armies, and always prefer eating

our men after death to the Mexicans. I spent an hour in contemplating

the desolations of war--picked up a few Spanish coins, a watch key,

cross, &c., with several other little matters, as mementos. Gen. Wool’s

quarters were to be seen in the distance. After spending an hour or

two in his camp, I returned to our boys, whom I found assembled in a

congregation, and Capt. Reid holding forth in a speech, trying all

his might, to get some of our men to volunteer again, their term

being nearly expired. This morning every preparation is made for the

reception of Gen. Wool, who is expected to receive the command. All in

right order, we marched out, the artillery in front, our company (the

Chihuahua Rangers) next, and so on. As he rode up, the artillery-men

fired a salute, and while passing along the lines with his escort,

we had orders to “present arms.” After the parade was over, we were

marched back to _camp_, where the General came to inspect the captured

cannon, and see the black flag, taken at the battle of Sacramento. At

night we drew rations of bacon and dried apples, which good things,

some of our boys thought were given as a _bribe_ to induce them to

re-enlist.

_Sunday, 23d._--We left at an early hour, and as we passed through

Gen. Wool’s encampment, we turned over to him our American artillery,

consisting of six pieces, received at Santa Fe. We retained the Mexican

cannon, viz. 17 pieces taken at the battle of Sacramento, and one piece

taken at Bracito, and marched on 12 miles to Saltillo, a large town

among the mountains. The weather is warm and pleasant, and in right

order we passed through, and proceeded on eight miles, we encamped at

night in a wheat field. We saw to-day several deserted ranchos.

_24th._--After a long and fatiguing march of 32 miles, we stopped at a

deserted ranch to pass the night. In winding through the mountain pass

to-day, we turned aside to see the fortifications which had been thrown

up, to stop the progress of Gen. Taylor to Saltillo.

_25th._--An early start, and fatiguing journey of 25 miles brought us

within four miles of Monterey. From our camp we have a full view of the

city and palace of the Bishop. All this day our road lay through the

narrow pass of the mountains, one of which is volcanic, and has been

burning for several years. A heavy rain descended to-night, drenching

us completely, and in the midst of which a grave was dug for a poor

soldier, who has been sick ever since we left Chihuahua.

_26th._--Through a heavy wind we rode into town and stopped to see the

citadel and wall so bravely scaled by our troops after the enemy was

driven from their redoubts. From this palace, a lovely and extensive

view of the city and surrounding country is presented. The southern

fruits and flowers are growing in great luxuriance. After our men were

satisfied with an inspection, we marched through the famous town of

Monterey to Gen. Taylor’s camp, where we arrived at 12 o’clock. We

found the old hero encamped in the woods. Immediately on our arrival

he came to us, in company with Col. Doniphan, to see the trophies of

our victories. I was fortunate enough to grasp the hand of the old

General. In the afternoon several thousand pack mules were sent out

with provisions for Gen. Wool.

_27th._--At day-break the roll-call was called, and Capt. Hudson told

us to saddle up, and get ready to start. All was in readiness, when

orders came that we should be delayed till 12 o’clock. A few minutes

before that hour Gen. Taylor with his escort rode up, and passed along

the lines, with his hat off, to review us. We presented sabres, and

then started on our way, the General escorting us some distance from

his camp. After he left us, we pursued our march through a country

well covered with hackberry and other trees. A long route of 32 miles

brought us to a ranch, where we halted for the night.

_28th._--Arrived at a deserted ranch late in the morning, after

passing 40 miles over a most dreadful road. Being in the rear guard,

I and eleven others, were obliged to assist the wagons up the hills,

by pushing at the wheels. All along this route decaying bodies and

skeletons of men, are lying. Some of the bodies still had their

clothing on, and the stench was almost intolerable. The road was also

strewed with mules, which had died in numbers on their way to Monterey.

_29th._--The road is only interesting from association. Many a brave

man has passed it never to retrace his steps. Six miles from our

last stopping place we reached Seralvo. Here we found a regiment

of volunteers on the march to join Gen Taylor. We waited till the

afternoon to feed our horses and mules; then marched 14 miles to

another deserted ranch and stopped to sleep. We saw, on our way many

ranchos and villages tenantless and destroyed. While we were at

Seralvo, a Mexican was caught, who belonged to the gang that murdered

the teamsters, and burned up 150 wagons, which were on their way to the

army. At three o’clock, he was brought out in the plaza, and placed

against the wall. A file of six men, (the Texian Rangers,) stood some

ten yards off. The prisoner was told by the Colonel that his time was

at hand. He was then ordered to turn his back. This he not only refused

to do, but struck fire and lighted his cigar. The word was given--all

fired--and he fell dead. Three balls entered his breast, and three his

head. A Texian, whose brother had been murdered in the wagon train,

gave a five dollar gold piece to take the place of one who was chosen

to do this melancholy business.

[Illustration: EXECUTION OF A MEXICAN CHIEF.]

_Sunday night, 30th._--We have stopped at a town called Mier. I felt

very weary after a travel of 36 miles. This place is notorious on

account of a battle that was gained by the Texians. Our Rangers were

highly elated in the thoughts of their success and they became so drunk

that the defeated Mexicans took them prisoners, and marched them off to

the city of Mexico. So much for the sale of rum. We met with a cordial

reception at this place.

_31st._--We encamped in sight of Camargo at two o’clock to-day. We

crossed the river St. Pon in a ferry boat, which was pulled by means

of ropes. The crossing occupied about two hours, when our troops and

artillery were landed. This town is well fortified. It is the principal

depot for supplies to the army, which come up this river in small

steamers. River water is drank, although rendered very filthy by the

carcasses of mules and horses, which are thrown into it. To-day one

poor fellow was buried, who had been sick a long time. Many a hard jolt

in the rough wagon, and hour of thirst and weariness had he--but he

sleeps quietly and peacefully in his lonely rest on the banks of the

St. Pon.

_June 1st._--On our way to the Rio Grande, this morning one of our men

was shot by a party of Mexicans, who had concealed themselves in the

bushes. He was riding alone, when he was fired upon. The charge entered

his hand and breast, and he fell dead. Capt. Reid at the head of 50

men, went after the murderers, and soon returned with six of them. They

are to be kept in close confinement.

_2nd._--Our officers were in an unpleasant dilemma. They did not know

how to dispose of the prisoners, and after some debate, they concluded

to turn them loose. A file of soldiers was detailed for that purpose.

They took them some miles off, and soon returned, announcing that _they

had turned them loose_. At 4 o’clock we left, and travelled all night

through a thick forest of muskeet trees and brushwood. About sunrise

we arrived at Columbus, where we found several steamers ready for us.

Many of us were miserably disordered from our weary midnight march. We

encamped on the Rio Grande. This evening our cannon was sent down the

river two miles to be shipped.

_3d._--Orders were received at an early hour for the troops to bring

forward their saddles, rigging, &c., to be valued. A most unsightly

mass was soon presented, the dilapidated articles were gathered in

a heap. Our Sergeant gave notice he should value them as condemned

property, it being impossible to transport them. A large fire was then

made, and all were consumed. Our horses were placed in charge of a Mr.

Van Bibber, who for a stipulated sum engaged to drive them through

Texas to Missouri, and leave them at any point we might designate. We

walked a mile to the beach, where several steamers awaited us. The

sick went immediately on board. Two or three companies started, while

the rest of us were detained till very late to assist in shipping the

cannon. Orders were given that we should remain all night, so we went

again on shore, spread our blankets on the beach, and spent the night

rather uncomfortably.

_4th._--It commenced raining at 3 o’clock this morning. After eating a

breakfast of coffee and a few hard crackers, we hurried on board the

steamer. Here we found both cabin and deck crowded with men. Our little

steamer started in the midst of a heavy rain, rendering every thing

exceedingly unpleasant. Night came on and no cooking could be done, so

we went on shore, erected our tents, ate our suppers and rested quietly

through the night.

_5th._--The bell rang at 3 o’clock for us to come on board which we

accomplished in the course of an hour. One fellow being rather slow,

was left behind, but he regained the boat before she had gone two

miles. Fortunately for him an accident happened to the wheel, which was

found to be broken, thus detaining us for repairs several hours. We did

not reach Matamoras till two o’clock. Here we stopped but a very few

minutes, and proceeded on till sunset. The boat now stopped to take in

wood, and the Captain informed us that he should leave at moonrise. We

laid down on deck on our blankets.

_Sunday, 6th._--I was awakened at one o’clock by the deck hands to make

room to haul in the foot plank. I found myself drenched with filthy

water, which had run under me as I slept. Quietly folding up my blanket

I thought I would make no complaint, as I was near my journey’s end.

About sunrise we reached the Balize, when all hands landed and erected

the tents. After breakfast, with a number of others, I went to bathe in

the sea. We let the breakers pass over our heads. They came with such

force, that in my present reduced state, I found it difficult to stand

up under them. Nor could I remain long in the water.

_7th._--We are encamped on the banks of the Rio Grande, eight miles

from the shipping, which is on the opposite side of this narrow neck of

land.

_8th._--A regiment of regulars landed to-day, on their way to the seat

of war. No ship has appeared as yet to take us off.

_9th._--This morning we had orders to start for Brazos Santiago, nine

miles from this place. We had not proceeded far through the deep sand,

when it became necessary for those who had the remnant of shoes, to

pull them off, on account of the sand gathering in them, it being

above the ankle at every step. Our feet became badly blistered by the

heat and friction. Most gladly did I spread my blanket on the sand and

enjoy a night of rest, after the fatigues of the day. We are not yet

at the end of this uncomfortable journey. The shipping is in sight,

and a short march in the morning will relieve the weary teams of their

burdens.

_10th._--We are all on board--artillery, baggage, and a motley crew

of 250 men, with unshaved faces, ragged and dirty, but all in fine

spirits, save a few poor fellows, whose thin visages show the ravages

of disease and suffering.

_11th._--The past has been a memorable night. For suffering I have

not experienced its equal in all my peregrinations through life. In

the brig, on board of which we took passage, there were 100 bunks (a

slight elevation made of plank) for the soldiers to sleep on. When I

got in mine, the crowd was so great and the air so oppressive, that I

thought I would get out, and take a few pulls at the fresh atmosphere.

Groping along in the dark, I endeavored to find some place of egress,

but the whole gangway was strewed with men, and I was forced to return,

amid a shower of _blessings_ from the poor fellows, on whom I had the

misfortune to tread. I laid the rest of the night in this hot place,

more dead than alive. There was not the slightest air, and I was

covered with a profuse perspiration.

_12th._--An inspection of this brig, which was beautiful in its

exterior, convinced me that it was a filthy place indeed; especially

between decks. It was certainly worse than a hog-pen, for just above

our bunks, there was a sty, in which were several of the real material.

Two small fires were built for the soldiers to cook with, and so many

crowded around them, all anxious to be served, that a long time elapsed

before I could get my coffee. As a matter of convenience we were

supplied with hard crackers and molasses. This diet only increased my

disease, and I turned a longing eye on a large turtle which had been

killed and was being served up for our officers, and the inmates of the

cabin.

_13th._--Our allowance of water was a coffee pot full twice a day for

coffee, and a pint apiece for each man to drink; a hogshead had been

drawn upon deck for our use. There is a guard kept throughout each day,

over this hogshead of miserable water, not fit for horses to drink. It

was with mingled feelings of admiration and sorrow that I saw our brave

fellows, who had borne the fatigues of the march, and the strong blows

of the battle, come humbly around the hogshead, which was a central

point of attraction, and ask for a little cup of water, when they were

almost famished, and could drink several pints were it allowed them. It

is a gloomy Sabbath evening--nearly calm.

_14th._--We are running S. E. by E., though the boat scarcely glides

along, there being a calm. It seems that the water is becoming scarcer

to-day. The Captain has directed that a quart only shall be given to

each man for all purposes. And it is to last 24 hours. When this was

announced one of the men muttered something which I did not hear, but

which the Captain disliked; for he told us all, that if any one made

another threat, he would blow his brains out as quick as he would shoot

a rattlesnake. When this threat was heard the men all roared out in

a hearty laugh. The Captain was of middle size, somewhat corpulent,

swarthy in complexion, and blind in his right eye. He was rough in

his manners, but talked very little, especially to us, privates. He

is master of the brig and is employed by government to convey troops

across the gulf. His name is Woodsides. This morning about a pint of

water was issued to each man. Of course, no coffee is made. We mixed a

little vinegar with some water, and with crackers and molasses, made

out our supper. Two dolphins were caught by the sailors, and one of our

men caught a young shark. Another turtle is served up for the cabin. It

was so warm that I could not sleep in my bunk, but lay in the gangway,

on my blanket. At midnight a steamer came alongside, and the Captain

took on board several barrels of water. It was truly a blessing for us.

_15th._--Coffee and fried shark for breakfast, but a dreadful sore

mouth (which I fear is the scurvy) makes the eating a painful

performance. Every indication of land was near. At 12 o’clock the

Captain said we were 80 miles from the Balize. In anticipation of a

storm, the sails were furled, but a little sprinkle of rain was all,

and we again spread our canvass to the breeze. A sailor was sent aloft

to see if the light house was in sight, and after remaining in the

cross trees two hours, he came down and said he saw it. A short time

after the cry was heard, “the pilot boat is coming.” Sails were furled,

and the pilot was soon on board. In the meantime some one cried “three

cheers for Capt. Woodsides!” The cry was echoed by the crowd, and Capt.

Woodsides looked bullets. A flag was placed on the bow, a steamer came

alongside and towed us over the bar, where our Captain anchored. We

now draw water up the sides of the ship, for we are in the Mississippi

river, 100 miles from New Orleans. The water is good and there is

plenty of it, as the river is full. Every man has just as much as he

can use, and we use it freely enough. After supper I went to my bunk,

but found it too warm to rest in, so I took my blanket, and laid down,

as usual, in the gangway--but not being able to stretch my feet out, in

consequence of a sack of bacon in the way, I got up and searched about,

and at length found an empty bunk of some one who had gone on deck to

spend the night. I felt weak and sick from the heat.

_16th._--We drew our water from the river to get some breakfast, the

sailors are washing off the deck, and if any man happens in the way,

he is sure of having a bucket full thrown on him; of course several of

our boys have had a good drenching. At 8 o’clock a steamer took us in

tow. As we proceeded up the Mississippi, we beheld on its banks large

plantations of the sugar cane which present a lovely contrast with some

countries over which I have marched. On the left side of the river is

Fort Jackson, now nearly in ruins, but still a beautiful place. With

several of our men I slept on the deck of the steamer. We were all in

good spirits at the prospect of getting home, though the want of a

change of clothes at this particular juncture is keenly felt. Some are

covered with filth, and vermin, which have kept their hiding places

within our garments, for many a long day.

_17th._--We are now among the thick settlements, and sugar plantations

which line the river as we approach the city. I remained most of the

night on deck, and ate an early breakfast of the usual diet. Afterwards

Capt. Hudson had one of the big guns taken up, and fired a salute as we

passed a pretty little village. We are now on the site of the battle

ground, where General Jackson fought the English in 1814--continued

our course up the river, and fired several times. At last, we were

safely landed on the wharf in New Orleans. Upon my head there was no

hat, having lost my last remnant overboard in the gulf. My pants, I

had thrown away three days before, because (being composed of deerskin

worn into tatters,) I despaired of making them look decent. A pair of

drawers, rather the worse for wear, and an old overcoat, constituted my

dress. If, to this description of my person I add that my hair, beard,

and mustachios, had been left to vegetate undisturbed ever since I left

Fort Leavenworth, then some idea may be formed of the accomplished

soldiers of Col. Doniphan’s command.

_18th._--In company with twelve others I got in an omnibus to search

for some clothes and quarters; came three miles to a large clothing

establishment, where our wants as to garments were soon supplied. The

barber next exercised his skill, and it was with many an amusing jest

and laugh that we regarded each others altered and improved appearance.

Comfortable quarters were secured, and to-night I am reposing in a

quiet boarding house. Here I feel that no homage of my soul is profound

enough to render due adoration to that gracious Providence Who has

protected and guided me, while marching over the wild plains, and

through the mountain passes of Mexico.

“Deserts in vain opposed our onward course;

O’er hostile lands and wild untravelled wastes,

Our journey we pursued, nor feared the floods,

Through deep ravines that flow; dire banked with death;

Nor mountains in whose jaws destruction grinned.

Though floods rapacious roaring as they rolled,

And mountains huge and rough were circled round

By roving bands of restless savage foes.”

_22nd._--On Sunday last I went to the M. E. Church and listened to an

excellent sermon. I was kindly invited by a stranger, who introduced

himself to me, to dine and spend the evening with him. I complied with

his request and was pleasantly entertained. After tea I returned to

my boarding house, which is kept by a Mr. Wren, and whose charge is

moderate, viz. $4 per week. On my first introduction here I committed

a blunder, the thought of which has frequently caused me to smile.

It shows the contrast between a camp life and the more polished

proceedings of life in the city. When I was called to the first meal,

I seated myself at the table in the presence of my hostess, and

commenced operations as I supposed in a manner the most polite and

refined. Casting a glance at the lady I observed that she was eyeing

me with a curious interest. The smile that played upon her lip told me

that she was amused at some awkwardness of mine or some oddity in my

appearance. And what was my surprise when I found that I had jerked my

old knife from my pocket and was cutting my meat placed upon my bread

in my usual way. The habit had been fixed upon me, and notwithstanding

the neat arrangements of the table I could not resist the propensity to

indulge in my camp customs.

_26th._--On board the steamer Louisville bound for Cincinnati. The

boat is crowded, but a mattress on which to lie is a luxury. A few

hours ago, I parted with many of my fellow soldiers and friends, with

feelings which it is impossible for me to describe. I am not in a

situation to continue with the regiment until it reaches its final

destination. My mouth is so sore that the least effort to masticate my

food is very painful, and I cannot eat, now that I have before me all

the luxuries of life; and even if I could it would be improper for me

to do so, on account of a long continued diarrhœa and pain in my breast

and side. I feel that I am greatly changed when I compare the present

with the time when I last glided over this beautiful stream. Then so

full of health and anticipations of pleasures and happiness, now, a

sick soldier--a mere skeleton of a man, bronzed by the burning rays of

a Mexican sun, and worn down by the prolonged fatigue of travelling,

watching and toil. I regret very much that I cannot go to St. Louis, as

requested by Col. Doniphan, where an enthusiastic reception is awaiting

him. To express myself in _measured terms_ about our Commander, would

not be expressive of my feelings, and I feel how utterly incompetent

I am to utter his eulogy. The man who can familiarise himself with

the poorest private, by some kind word, or ride among the troops,

and make us forget that we were hungry or thirsty by some pleasant

converse, in our long and toilsome march;--the man who can forget his

own personal safety in the hour of danger, and rise superior to every

embarrassment--who can be prepared for every emergency, by superior

skill in the tactics of war--as well as a refined sense of honor, and

an open suavity of manner, not only leading captive the hearts of his

entire command, but thousands of the hostile foe--such a man is a

treasure to society, an honor to his country. And, such a man, is the

brave Doniphan. It was with the feelings of a brother or a friend to

whom I owed many obligations, that I grasped the hand of this great

man, who kindly wished me a safe return to my family.

_27th._--Our noble steamer has made good headway up the river, passed

Baton Rouge, and at nine o’clock at night came in sight of Natchez.

_28th._--Passed the Grand Gulf at 10, and at 2 got to Vicksburg.

The pleasure of feasting my eyes on scenes so lovely, and which are

presented by a trip to the “Father of Waters,” compensates for any

little inconvenience arising from our crowded state.

_30th._--At this time we are near Memphis. There is some excitement on

board. A man laboring under the effects of mania potu is quite crazy,

and has attempted several times to jump overboard. Just now he entered

the ladies’ cabin and struck his wife; one of our officers interfered,

and soon placed him on his back. But a further attempt to kill his

child made it necessary to secure him. With several others I entered

the ladies’ cabin, and helped to tie this _gentleman_. He made much

useless resistance.

_July 1st._--Slept but little--the surrounding bustle and noises

mingled strangely with dreamy anticipations of soon receiving the

cordial welcome of friends, that I fondly think that are eagerly

awaiting me in my native home.

_West River, July 10th._--Let no brave soldier say he cannot shed tears

of joy, when clasped in the arms of his aged, widowed mother, after an

absence of nearly two years, in which he has encountered the perils of

both land and sea--travelling nearly 6000 miles, 2200 being through the

heart of an enemy’s country, and witnessing death in every shape and

feature.

It were an endless task to attempt any thing like a minute description

of that part of Mexico through which we travelled. Our route lay for

the most part, on the Rio Grande del Norte, whose head waters rise in

the Green Mountains, several hundred miles above Santa Fe. It forms

the western boundary of Texas, and can be easily forded at almost any

point above El Paso. In the dry season it is extremely low, and can be

of very little importance for navigation, except near its mouth, which

flows into the Gulf of Mexico. It is thought this river has a course

of from 15 to 1800 miles. The country is elevated: being traversed

by a range of mountains extending far to the northward. Among the

inhabitants, I saw every shade of complexion, from a dark swarthy, or

yellow, to the palest white. But few are handsome among the ladies; and

this is principally to be attributed to their great love of coloring

the skin with red paint. The mountaineers are mostly poor, and almost

universally destitute of every thing beyond the bare necessaries of

life. Their flocks and herds constitute their principal riches, and

their implements of husbandry are all of the most simple character.

Their ploughing such as it is--is effected by a wooden plough, to which

is attached two or four oxen, and the wheat is slightly covered over,

having been previously sown on the hard ground. There are some fertile

valleys in this mountainous range, but the poor simple inhabitants

have very little idea of taking advantage of the natural resources of

their country. After we left Chihuahua, fields of cotton and corn,

interspersed at intervals with the sugar cane, presented themselves.

The ranchos are always about a day’s journey apart, and the whole

aspect of nature in these delightful spots, is one of the most inviting

that can be imagined, as a field of operation, for the industry and art

of man. The soil here is fertile, and what is generally termed bottom

land; and with proper culture would be made as productive as any of

our western lands, as the climate is more genial. They grow only a few

vegetables, of which the red pepper appears to be a favorite, these

they string and hang on the outsides of their houses so thick that on

approaching I frequently thought I should see a painted dwelling, but

was to see only a miserable dirty hut. The mines of Mexico afford her

principal wealth, but of this the poorer classes obtain but little,

they are kept in ignorance and degradation by a government which has

borne the name of Republican, but which every one who sojourns in that

country must soon discover to be a mockery, for the mass of the people

are subject alone to the will of the Roman clergy, and are not free to

act. There is no slave in any of our Southern States whose situation

they have not reason to envy. The women are more degraded if possible

than the men, and more slovenly in their appearance, and while this is

the case in any country the morals of the people must remain at a low

grade. Since my return, I have heard of the enthusiastic reception of

Col. Doniphan at St. Louis, an account of which I annex as published in

the Baltimore American. Our business was not, however, to see all that

was worth seeing, but to hurry on to the place we started for and when

arrived at that to make arrangements to hurry on again.