JOURNAL.

I left my home on West River, Anne Arundel County, Md., the 11th

November, 1845, for a southern tour, and after visiting the principal

places of the south and west, inspecting the country, and meeting

with adventures familiar to all who travel, I found myself, the

following spring, located permanently a few miles from Carrollton,

Carroll County, Missouri, boarding in the family of Judge Rea, a

clever gentlemanly man. Here I formed numerous acquaintances, among

them, an old Capt. Markle, who informed me of his intention to visit

California, and depicted in glowing terms the pleasure of travelling

in new countries, &c. In the meantime, a company of mounted volunteers

was being formed in the neighborhood, under Capt. Williams, in which

many young men whom I knew, had enlisted. This, together with the

enthusiasm which prevailed at a public meeting on the 4th of July,

(when the ladies of Carrollton presented the company a beautiful flag,

and many speeches were made)--caused me to decide and join the company.

I immediately set about preparing--bought my regimentals, canteen,

saddlebags, also some books and a writing apparatus for convenience in

noting down the occurrences of each day, thinking it probable, should

I live to return, it might be a source of amusement to my friends in

Maryland.

_August 4th, 1846._--This morning we started for Fort Leavenworth. Many

of my friends came to take breakfast with me at Squire Dorr’s. We met

our Captain at Carrollton, where a public dinner was given. The company

formed and marched to the table in order. In the evening we mounted

our fine horses and proceeded out of town. We passed the Prairie, 30

miles wide, and rode as far as the residence of Dr. Arnold. There were

fifteen of us in company, separated from the rest, and all in search of

quarters.

Having to water our horses, the Doctor directed us where to go. The

way was plainly pointed out, but to our astonishment, we all got lost

in the timber. We rode till very late, and might have been put to

great inconvenience, had we not met with a servant who set us right.

We returned to the Doctor’s to muse on our mishap and enjoy more

hospitality. An ominous beginning for a soldier’s life.

_5th._--Started this morning in company with the Doctor and his lady,

who went with us eight miles to Lexington, and thence to Richmond,

where we arrived at 4 o’clock. A few miles further on we encamped. I

rode all this day without my dinner. Having had opportunity to become

better acquainted with my Captain and other officers, I find them very

clever and kind.

_6th._--I discovered this morning that my horse was lame from tightness

of his shoes. Went to town to a blacksmith who re-shod him. The company

could not wait for me, and I travelled alone through a beautiful forest

of sugar trees. Passed Elke Horn, and rode until within six miles of

Liberty. Here I found our baggage team had given out. Our Captain had

gone ahead with the company, and left the second Lieutenant, Mr. Smith,

in charge. I discovered Lieutenant Smith to be a man of very tender

feelings. Several of our company were taken with chills to-night, which

is rather discouraging.

_7th._--At day-light this morning our train was under way, arrived in

town to breakfast, after which our Captain marched us all over the

city. It is a beautiful inland place of 1000 inhabitants. Fifteen miles

further on, we met our first Lieutenant, just from the Fort. He told us

to hurry on and get mustered into service before the other companies

should crowd in. We hurried accordingly and reached Platt City at

sunset. I was fatigued and hungry, and went into the hotel to get my

supper, when I came out, I found our third Lieutenant had come up with

the rest of the men, and were ready to start for the ferry. I went on

with them. We arrived at the ferry, opposite Fort Leavenworth, about 12

o’clock at night. I went in search of something for my horse. There was

a widow lady living near, to whom I applied, and she very pleasantly

told me “to go to the crib and help myself.” I went, fed my horse, and

spent the rest of the night on the unhusked ears in the crib, where I

slept soundly.

_8th._--Rose early and went in search of my Captain. Found him, with

many others, between some fallen trees, wrapped up in their blankets,

fast asleep on the sand. We soon prepared for crossing the river,

which I felt to be the bidding adieu to friends and home, and almost

civilization itself. I was the only one who had taken refreshment. It

was fortunate for me that I had made a second visit to the widow and

obtained a good breakfast. We were soon all safely over the ferry, 85

in number, men of all grades and dispositions, some very facetious,

and others reserved and thoughtful. We were all huddled together, and

ordered to form in double file, to proceed two miles from the Fort

to erect our tents. We had to wait some time for the wagons which

contained our provisions, consisting of mess pork, sugar, coffee, &c.

The head of each mess--six in number, had to apply to the Sergeant for

the necessary supplies. Having been appointed to the charge of my mess,

I went up, took my share, and helped the men to theirs. The first meal

I tasted in the Indian territory was supper, and such a supper! It was

composed of hard water crackers and mess pork, which would cut five

inches through the ribs. I boiled my pork for nearly two hours, and

found it still so tough that it was harder labor than I had been at all

day to eat it. Necessity is the mother of invention, and I fell upon

an expedient by which to despatch it, I took it out, stewed and fried

it. But it was yet spongy and stuck in my teeth. I made out, however,

with the assistance of a keen appetite; and being very tired, I laid

myself down on my blanket in the tent. I had not lain many minutes when

our Orderly came by, calling upon the men to form a line. We had much

rather slept, but to obey was our duty, and we were soon in the line.

We were then drilled by a young officer from the Fort. After drill,

the officers commenced counting us off from right to left, and every

fourth man had to stand guard.

I was taken as one of the fourth men and placed with eleven others at

No. 1, where I had to walk my post two hours. It was quite long enough

for a beginning, and I resigned the post with pleasure when the time

expired. At 12 o’clock the relief guard put a man in my place, and I

went rejoicing to my rest.

_Sunday, 9th._--This morning I had to get breakfast for the first

time in my life; I was perfectly green at the business, but it had

to be done. I filled the kettle with water, browned my coffee, fried

the pork, &c. I went on very well until by an unlucky mishap I upset

the kettle, and put out the fire. Nothing daunted by the misfortune,

I entered upon another trial and was more successful. We paraded

immediately after breakfast, and prepared to go to the Fort, where we

had the honor of being mustered into service by our Colonel. He called

our names, and as each passed before him he was asked his age, and as

many other questions as would afford a pretty good description of his

person and history of his life. The Articles of War were then read and

we formed a line and returned to camp. The roll was called soon after,

and all that were not present, had to keep guard. So much for playing

truant on an occasion of so much importance. I was fortunate enough to

be present and escaped the infliction.

_12th._--The past two or three days were employed in strict attention

to the duties of a soldier, such as cooking, drilling, &c. To-day, Col.

Price assembled the whole regiment at the Fort, to have an appraisement

of horses, saddles, &c. In the afternoon I rode back to the encampment

on a large bag of beef in the hot sun. A severe headache was my

travelling companion.

_14th._--Yesterday and to-day we had a terrible job, breaking mules

to the wagons. It is difficult to muster these stubborn animals into

service. I, with a fellow soldier, was detained from the Fort till a

late hour. We were employed in the novel pursuit of pulling two of

the mules by main force through the hazel bushes two miles. Only think

of it! Two of Uncle Sam’s worthies pulling a jackass apiece two miles

through the bushes. While at the Fort I called on the minister, who

was very kind and affectionate in his conversation and manners. He

presented me a Testament, Prayer Book, and a bundle of Tracts--at night

we threw copies into each tent, and then sung hymns until it was time

to retire.

_15th._--This was our washing day. I went with the rest of the b’hoys,

to the branch, where we kindled three large fires, and put up our camp

kettles to boil the clothes. I never boiled any before, and I felt

pretty much as I did when I began to cook breakfast. I went to work

awkwardly enough, as my scalded hands bore witness. But a man can

even wash his clothes when he is obliged to do it, the opinions of

the ladies to the contrary notwithstanding. In the evening we ceased

our labors as washers of clothes and went into the branch and washed

ourselves. After bathing we returned to camp quite refreshed.

_Sunday, 16th._--This morning I thought I would hear the Missionary

preach--and with several others, started for the purpose. Just

before we got to the village, an Indian informed us there would be

no preaching that day. We were greatly disappointed, and turned to

wander about awhile and survey the country around. It was wild and

picturesque, and the sight of it was gratifying. We met a number

of Indians. Their language and gesture were very strange, and they

presented a most outlandish appearance. Many of them came into our camp

with a variety of things to sell. When we returned, our camp was nearly

deserted. The men had gone to the Fort for equipments to commence our

march. We hurried on, but only to be disappointed again. Too many

companies were in before us. We went back to the camp, and spent the

day quietly.

_18th._--Every man was well fitted out with a musket and fifteen

cartridges, a load of guns having been brought from the Fort. I have

now become accustomed to implicit obedience to orders--going and

returning on errands to the Fort--breaking mules, looking for strayed

horses, cooking breakfast, washing clothes, &c. At night it rained

hard, and while I tried to compose myself to sleep, I felt the shower

dripping in my face.

_20th._--The important morning had now arrived. It was the morning on

which we were to “strike our tents, and march away” for California.

All was bustle and excitement, and we poor privates had to load the

wagons with provisions for our long march. It fell to my lot as usual,

to handle the bacon, pork, &c. And yet another trial awaited me: we had

not travelled more than a mile, when we came to a deep slough or pond,

through which I had to guide a mule. It was the first time I had the

honor of leading a mule in gears. I had to dismount and wade through

thick mud up to my waist. I had rather carried the mule on my back over

a better road. What made the matter worse, I had my new clothes on,

and they were almost ruined by the adventure. On stopping to encamp, a

messmate kindly poured on water, while I washed the mud off, as well

as I could, and laid down in my wet garments, very weary with my day’s

journey.

_21st._--We are now fairly in the Indian country. The place assigned

by the Government for the future residence of the tribes who have

emigrated from the States. Here we found the prairies covered with

grass--a seasonable supply for our horses, and a drove of ninety-five

beeves which we had brought out for present use. A strong guard was

stationed around the encampment, at night, as roving bands of Indians

were lurking around us, ready to seize any thing they could lay their

hands on. We had travelled 12 miles when our Captain thought it best to

encamp for the night, as we found a little wood. The want of timber is

a great defect in this otherwise beautiful country.

_22nd._--We started this morning at 8 o’clock, and travelled 15

miles through a lovely region, when we came to a settlement of the

Delaware Indians. Their houses and plantations bear evident marks of

civilization. In company with our first Lieutenant, I called at a

house, in the door of which sat two squaws making moccasons. Stretched

on a bench near by, lay an Indian fast asleep. He was a man of most

powerful dimensions, at least six feet four, and fat withal. By his

side rested a club full of notches. We did not care to disturb his

repose, for we had slight misgivings that a notch or two more in that

fatal war club, might record the finale of our own history. We left

him to his slumber and hastened to the river where we found several

companies of our companions buying and selling among the squaws.

Whiskey was the principal commodity, and a number of Indians were so

much intoxicated that they could hardly tell a tree from a moccason.

The ferry is kept by the Indians. The Kansas river at this place is a

bold stream, it was, nevertheless, safely passed by all, using boats

only for our wagons; about sunset all landed and we encamped about a

mile from the river.

_Sunday, 23d._--Again we started on our journey. After the first ten

miles of a broken country, some high hills appeared. They were very

difficult of ascent, and we had much trouble with our teams. In two

places we had to put our shoulders to the wheels. Orders were given

that every man should secure what wood he could find, and we commenced

packing it before us, on our horses. A picturesque scene we must have

presented, each man with his load of wood before him on his horse.

While riding in this way we overtook Lieutenant Col. Mitchell.

_24th._--After passing a few clumps of trees, an immense prairie spread

out before us, extending as far as the eye could reach. At 12 o’clock

we came to a branch and encamped. The water here is in standing pools,

and before drinking or making coffee, we were obliged to strain it

through our handkerchiefs. While thus engaged, two Indians of the Sac

Tribe, made their appearance. They were elegantly mounted, but painted

and tattooed in a frightful manner. They are smaller in stature than

the Delawares, and at war with them. They called at our camp as a

matter of curiosity. One of my mess, Levi Flowers, received a severe

kick in his face from a horse which nearly killed him. His face was

very much swollen.

_25th._--The companies are now all united--having overtaken each other

at different places. Our force was 1200 strong. We travelled all day in

sight of trees like little dots on the horizon. At the end of our day’s

march we hoped to find water, _good_ water, which our poor fellows

needed after a long hot march, with nothing to protect their heads from

the rays of the sun but small glazed caps. The goal was reached. We

rested beneath the shade of a small skirt of woods.

_26th._--As usual, 8 o’clock found us ready to start. After a march

of 14 miles, we encamped on Beaver Creek. We killed a beef--and the

soldiers busied themselves in cooking supper. Not having conveniences

of home at hand, we dispensed with our dinner daily, and satisfied

ourselves with eating morning and night. Our Captain is a good sort

of a man and will no doubt do the best he can for us. And now while

speaking of the Captain I will say a word or two about our Lieutenants.

Our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, is nearly always in a good humor. He

is large and somewhat corpulent--enjoys a laugh very much. He weighs

220_lbs._ net. Our second Lieutenant, Mr. Smith, is of the middle size,

very facetious, and always ready to accommodate. Our third Lieutenant,

Mr. Rock, was formerly Captain of Militia, but volunteering to go with

the army to California, we elected him third Lieutenant. He is a little

over the middle size, and very reserved and stately.

_27th._--After travelling twelve miles we reached the encampment of

the Marion company, where we found a poor fellow who was accidentally

shot last night, by a revolving pistol. Two men are left to take care

of him. It is thought he cannot survive. Poor fellow! His fate is a sad

one. Pursuing our journey, we passed Beaver Creek, and after travelling

18 miles, came to the Big John River, where we encamped for the night.

[Illustration: A CAMP WASHING DAY.]

_28th._--The Captain told us this morning that we should stop here for

a day or two to rest ourselves. And now began a most ludicrous scene.

Every camp kettle and other vessel that would hold water was brought

in requisition, and the whole regiment commenced washing their clothes.

To me it was a most singular sight. While rubbing away at our clothes

a rumor reached us that we were on the route to Santa Fe, instead of

California. This was news, and what with washing and what with talking

we were kept pretty busy. On the route to Santa Fe, though we entered

the journey for California. But alas! no matter where we are. We found

our trip was not a “pleasure excursion,” as many of our imaginations

had so often pictured. The two soldiers we left to-day have just come

in, after digging the grave of their poor comrade.

_29th._--This morning we caught some black trout and cat fish in the

Big John. They were very fine. Col. Price had gone ahead, and at 12

o’clock we struck our tents, passed Council Grove, and encamped at

2 o’clock a few miles further on, where there is a blacksmith shop,

established by the government. Here I left letters for my friends in

Maryland, to be carried back by the return mail to Fort Leavenworth.

_Sunday, 30th._--Saw near the road, one of those singular mounds, of

which I have so often read. It towered beautifully to the height of 100

feet. It may have been a mount of observation; it may be filled with

the bones of the red men of the forest. I have no time, however, to

speculate upon subjects so foreign from my present employment. At the

end of 8 miles, we came to Rock Creek, and 7 miles further we arrived

at Diamond Spring, where we halted for the night.

_31st._--This morning I filled my canteen with the refreshing water

of Diamond Spring. At the spring I counted 45 wagons loaded with

provisions for the army. Yesterday we entered upon the far-famed

_plains_ at Rock Creek. The scenery presents a dull monotony, a vast

plain, almost level, bounded by the horizon and covered with a thin

sward and herbage.

_September 1st._--Came to a place, called the “Lost Spring,” a most

singular curiosity. The stream rises suddenly out of the ground, and

after rushing over the sand a few yards, as suddenly sinks, and is no

more seen.

_2nd._--To-day we are at the Cotton Wood Fork. It takes its name from

a large cluster of cotton trees, the first I had seen after leaving

Diamond Spring. There is a good stream of water here, and we enjoyed

the blessing of a fine shower of rain. A little misunderstanding took

place among the officers about starting. Some of them were too slow

in their movements and caused our Captain to collect his men and make

a speech. Several of the men were disgusted and become uproarious. A

march of eight miles, however, to Turkey Creek, settled the question,

and all appeared in pretty good humor. Three miles further on, we

came to 2nd Turkey Creek, nine miles beyond to 3rd Turkey Creek and

encamped. Turkey Creeks are plenty in this vicinity. How we would have

rejoiced if the turkeys had been as plenty as the titles of the streams

indicated. Third Turkey Creek is a lovely stream, running through the

prairie. Here we wanted wood to cook with. As yet we had not seen any

game with the exception of two rabbits, caught by our men. They were of

a novel species, almost white, with long black ears, and as large as a

grey fox.

_3rd._--About 12 o’clock to-day we came in sight of timber. Passed the

4th Turkey Creek, and after travelling 18 miles, encamped on the banks

of the little Arkansas, which at some seasons is a bold stream, with

tremendous cliffs that can be seen at a long distance.

_4th._--We are all huddled together in our tents, in consequence of a

heavy storm of wind and rain, which came on last night. Some of the

tents blew down, and most of the company were in a bad fix. Fires were

necessary to keep us warm. We left at 8 o’clock, and after travelling

10 miles, came to Owl Creek. Five miles from Owl Creek we reached Cow

Creek, where we encamped. On the left we could see cliffs and timber at

a great distance, and some small white spots like sand hills. On the

right, nothing but a vast prairie. Just before we arrived at the Cow

Creek an antelope was started. Our boys gave chase and fired several

times, but they missed him and he finally escaped. They must shoot

better in fight with the enemy. We had scarcely fixed up our tents,

when the news came that a buffalo was in sight. In an instant, men on

horseback, fully armed, were in pursuit from every direction. He was

less fortunate than the antelope. The men had improved a little and

they overtook their game after a considerable chase, during which they

fired fifty times. They killed him at last and brought some of the

flesh to the camp. It was of very little use, for with all our cooking,

it was too tough to eat. He was a bull at least 20 years old. We had

better let the old patriarch run.

_Arkansas Bend, Saturday, 6th._--Here we stopped last night, after

a most exciting day. Herds of buffalo were seen scattered over the

plains. The best hunters were picked out to secure as many as possible.

The chase was a fine one, 13 were killed by the different companies. I

strolled away from camp alone, to one of those mysterious mounds, which

occur so frequently to the traveller among these wilds. On ascending

it, I enjoyed a most magnificent prospect. It has the appearance of a

Fort, but when and for what purpose erected will long remain a matter

of uncertainty. I lingered so long that on my return I found that my

company had gone forward, but I soon overtook them. To-day we come to

Walnut Creek, 6 miles from the mound. I felt stupid and sick; as I was

placed on guard last night, on the banks of the Arkansas. I was all

alone in the deep midnight, and I sat three long hours, with my musket;

looking up and down the stream. I could see a great distance, as the

sand on the shore is very white.

_7th._--We were preparing to take a buffalo chase, when word

was brought that the whole command must be moving. We were much

disappointed, for we expected fine sport in the chase. On our route

to-day, we passed Ash Creek, and five miles on came to Pawnee Fork. We

saw herds of buffalo, and surrounded one, but they made a break towards

the road and crossed among the teams. They did no damage, however, nor

was much damage done to them. I rode on briskly to overtake a friend,

when my horse trod in a hole made by prairie dogs, (a small animal and

very numerous here,) and fell with me. I received no injury except

a little skin rubbed off my knee. On remounting, my attention was

arrested by a horse running at full speed, and dragging something on

the ground. When he came closer, I discovered it to be a man whom his

horse had thrown. The frightened animal stopped a little ahead of me

and I rode up, expecting to see a dead man, but as soon as his foot was

extricated from the stirrup, to the surprise of all, he stood up, and

said that he was not much hurt. He said he regretted most of all the

loss of his clothes, which were torn in shreds from his body. Another

man belonging to our company, by the name of Redwine, had a severe

fall. He was taken in to camp nearly dead. Chase was made again after

buffalo, which appeared in thousands. Many antelopes also appeared, but

it requires the fleetest horses to overtake them. Before we encamped we

saw near the road side a little mound of stones, on one of which was

engraved the name of R. T. Ross. It was supposed to be the grave of a

man who was murdered by the Indians in 1840. He is resting in a lonely

spot.

_8th._--We are now on the banks of the great Arkansas river, after

marching many miles through a barren and dreary looking country, almost

destitute of grass or herbage. Here there is some improvement in this

respect. A heavy rain caused our tents to leak, and drenched the poor

soldiers, so that they passed a very uncomfortable night.

_9th._--Kept up the river ten miles. A few scattered cotton trees, and

cliffs, and sand banks are the only things to be seen. One of Col.

Mitchell’s men was near being killed to-day by an Indian. He had chased

a buffalo two miles from camp, when an arrow was shot, which pierced

his clothes; the poor fellow made all the haste he could to camp with

the arrow sticking in his pants. It was well it was not in his skin.

_10th._--Last night as soon as we were all snugly fixed, and ready

for sleep, there arose a fearful storm of wind and rain, which gave

our tents and ourselves a good shaking. Some of the tents were blown

down, breaking in their fall the ridgepoles of others, and bringing

them down also. In our tent, four of us held on with all our might, for

nearly two hours, to keep it standing. To-day we continued our march,

travelling 15 miles, on the banks of the river. We saw a large flock of

wild geese and tried to get a shot, but without success. They were too

wild for us.

_11th._--The weather was quite cold this morning, and there was so

dense a fog as to prevent us from seeing a hundred yards ahead. There

was an antelope killed to-day. The flesh tasted like mutton. We

encamped by the side of the river, and an opportunity was afforded us

of catching fish, which we accomplished by the novel mode of spearing

them with the bayonet. Several dozens were caught, and we found them

delicious.

_12th._--Resumed our journey through the same scenery 12 miles--many

antelopes were seen in herds, and prairie dogs barked at us, in every

direction.

_Sunday, 13th._--As we proceed, the country assumes a still more dreary

aspect, bare of verdure, and broken in ridges of sand. Our horses,

enfeebled by their long travel, have very little to subsist on. The men

too, for the past three days, have ceased to receive rations of sugar

and coffee. When we could not get these articles, we did as they do in

France--that is, without them. We had to fry our meat, and a few of us

entered upon the funny work of making soup out of pork, buffalo flesh,

and fish, boiled up together. It was a rare mess, but we pronounced it

first rate.

_14th._--After passing over the last 15 miles to-day, we found

ourselves at a place called the crossing of the Arkansas. We were then

362 miles from Fort Leavenworth. Our course has been along the margin

of the river for 75 miles. At this place are steep bluffs difficult to

descend. There are multitudes of fish in the river, many of them were

killed by the horses’ feet in crossing. We caught several varieties by

spearing. A number of antelopes were killed here.

_15th._--This morning I felt very dull from loss of rest. We had to

give considerable attention to the cattle, horses, &c., to prevent them

from straying. I and seven others were detailed to stand sentinel. I

was appointed to the second watch, and to be in readiness at the hour,

I spread my blanket down in the prairie to take a nap. In two hours I

was awakened, and instructed to arouse the Captain of the Watch at the

expiration of three hours more; having no means to measure the time but

by my own sad thoughts, and the weary hours being rather tardy, I too

soon obeyed the orders, and kept the last watch on duty five hours, to

the amusement of all. After breakfast I took a stroll over the sand

hills, and found about a dozen of our boys, inspecting the contents of

a large basket, something like a hamper in which the merchants pack

earthenware. It contained the skeleton of an Indian chief in a sitting

posture, wrapped in buffalo robes, with his arrows, belts, beads,

cooking utensils, &c. It had fallen from the limb of a tree, on which

it had been suspended. Several of the men picked up the beads, and one

named Waters carried the lower jaw and skull to camp, the latter he

said he intended “to make a soup gourd of.”

_16th._--I took my seat quietly in the tent this morning and thought

I would rest, as we were to stay a day or two at this place. I was

presently surrounded by soldiers begging me to write a few lines for

them “to father, mother, wives, friends and homes.” I wrote _seven_

letters without removing from a kneeling posture, and was kept busy

almost the whole day.

_17th._--Our Captain told us to get ready to start at 10 o’clock

to-day, and as we were to cross a sandy desert 60 miles wide, much

water and provisions were to be packed. A number of us were kept busy

cleaning the salt from pork barrels in order to fill them with water.

Scarcely had we finished this hard job; when the news spread like

electricity “that the mail from Fort Leavenworth had come in.” I cannot

pretend to describe the scene that ensued. I met our Captain, who said

“the Sergeant had a letter for me”--with the most peculiar feelings I

seized it and saw the hand-writing of my loved sister in Maryland--my

home, now so many weary leagues away. The delight I experienced was

not unmingled, however, with the thought that perhaps at this very

spot, the entrance to a wild desert, I had bid adieu finally to all

I held dear. We travelled 22 miles, and as it was late at night when

we halted, we spread our blankets on the sand and slept soundly till

morning.

_18th._--I rose by day-light and took a slice of bread and meat. We

started early and came 23 miles, where we found some water standing in

pools. We tried to erect the tents, but the wind was too high--had to

cook that night with _buffalo chips_; strange fuel even for soldiers to

use.

_19th._--After marching 10 miles to-day, we came to the Cimarone

Springs--a sweet stream. Here we found grass enough for our poor

horses. It is truly an oasis in the _desert_.

_Sunday, 20th._--We crossed an arm of the Cimarone, but the waters

were dried up--dug for water but found none. Went on 5 miles further,

dug again, and procured enough for ourselves and horses. In our route

of 25 miles we saw the ground encrusted with salt. A singular animal

attracted our notice. It was a horned frog, a great curiosity. Every

thing was involved in a thick cloud of dust.

_21st._--One of the members of the Randolph Company, a gentleman by the

name of Jones, died last night of consumption. He took the trip for his

health, but to-day his remains were interred, not far from the camp,

with the honors of war.

_22nd._--We still travelled on the Cimarone, though only at certain

places could we procure water. A deep sand retarded the progress of

the army. On arriving where we had to encamp we found 42 wagons, laden

with goods. They were the property of a Mr. Gentry, a trader who has

amassed great wealth, in merchandising between Independence, Santa Fe

and Chihuahua. He speaks the Spanish language, and had nearly a dozen

Spaniards in the caravan.

_23d._--We had a considerable storm last night--and the hard rain made

it rather disagreeable, especially so to me, as I had to do the duty of

a sentinel in the first watch, with a wolf howling most dismally within

50 yards of me. I would have fired at him, but I had to obey orders and

not arouse the camp by a false alarm. We saw to-day the bones of 91

mules, which perished in a snow-storm last winter. The bones were piled

by the road side.

_24th._--Overtook another caravan--still passing up the Cimarone, whose

bed is through the sandy plain, at length we came to a hill from whence

we descried the Rocky Mountains, rising abruptly in the distance. In

our route we crossed a small spur. Mr. White our first Lieutenant, with

several others ascended one, which presented the appearance of frowning

rocky precipices. From its highest peaks, he brought down seashell, and

petrifactions of various kinds. We had great difficulty in procuring

buffalo chips. It was very amusing to see the boys in search of this

indispensable article, our only resource to cook with.

_25th._--We reached “Cool Spring” to-day, and found refreshing and

delightful water, bursting from a solitary rock of enormous dimensions,

the sides of which are covered with the names of various travellers.

Our pleasant officer, Mr. White, called me up saying “he wished to

see my name on a spot he pointed out,”--so taking a hearty draught

from his canteen, which was just filled, I went up, and had scarcely

carved my name, to remain there a monument of my folly, I suppose,

when I discovered my horse making off with my accoutrements, canteen,

&c. Hurried down and started after the beast. After running a great

distance in the deep sand, I succeeded in capturing the runaway.

Nineteen miles further on we encamped in a deep ravine, among cliffs

and rocks, here a few cedar trees were found. They afforded a

seasonable supply of wood to cook with. The Rocky Mountains were in

sight all day.

_26th._--After a slight breakfast of bread and meat, we left this

inhospitable place in disgust. It did not afford grass for our horses

to graze on. We proceeded 12 miles through a dreary waste, and had to

encamp at night in a place where there was no water.

_27th._--I was awakened by the Sergeant of the Guard at 2 o’clock this

morning, it being my turn to stand sentinel of the morning watch. After

breakfast we went on 15 miles to Cotton Wood Creek. There we fixed up

our tents, but no forage being found for our half-starved animals, we

soon took them down again, and proceeded 5 miles on, to Rabbit Creek.

At this place there was plenty of grass and some tolerable scenery, but

we were in no condition to enjoy it; being late in the night we spread

our blankets on the prairie, and composed our wearied limbs to rest.

_28th._--Our journey was still continued through a dry and sterile

land, where there is neither wood, water, nor grass; late in the

evening we came to a pool of water. It was cool and good, and we drank

of it freely. Our wagons did not come up till very late, and being

tired, we wrapped ourselves in our blankets and laid down to sleep

without our supper. We went supperless, not to bed--but to the sod.

_October 1st._--The last two days of September we remained at a place

called Whetstone Creek, to rest. This Whetstone Creek is another oasis.

It was the source of great joy to ourselves and our mules and horses.

Our pastime was like the boy’s holiday whose mother allowed him to stay

at home from school to saw wood and bring water. Our resting spell was

a spell of hard work, and most industriously did we labor in cleansing

our arms for inspection by the Colonel. And we had to do a deal of

marching and countermarching. Indeed the parade lasted so long and with

so many manœuvres were we exercised, that the patience of officers and

men was worn to its extremity. It was nearly thread-bare. And then

came the orders for every man to see to his own provisions and water,

as another desert was to be traversed. So we go--changing from bad

to worse. To-day, after a march of ten miles, we reached the “Point

of Rocks”--a significant name. Late at night we encamped in a valley

between high mountains, where there was some grass, but no water.

_2nd._--We still moved on over barren rocks and sand hills. We labored

hard all day to leave them behind us. The hope cheered us of soon

finding water, we realised it at the far-famed Red River. Our whole

force encamped on its banks about night-fall. The waters of this

distinguished river are brackish, but refreshing. Incrustations of

salt are formed upon the rocks lying above its surface. This river was

named Rio Colorado by the early Santa Fe traders; who, without having

followed it down to any considerable distance, believed it to be the

head waters of the great river of this name, which flows into the

Mississippi below Natchez. It has, however, since been followed down to

its junction with the Arkansas, and found to be the Canadian fork of

that river. We were now within 140 miles of Santa Fe, having marched

more than 600 miles over a country destitute of timber, with but

little water, and occupied only by roving bands of Indians who subsist

wholly upon buffalo meat. We saw immense herds of that animal on the

Arkansas and its tributaries. The whole country presents, thus far, the

most gloomy and fearful appearances to the weary traveller. But rough

and uninviting as it is, all who visit New Mexico via Santa Fe, are

compelled to pass it.

_3d._--We have journeyed well to-day, having reached St. Clair Springs.

It is a beautiful spot, well watered--and glowing in delightful

verdure. It is surrounded by mountains, the surface of which are

covered with craggy rocks. We searched for miles around our camp for

wood, with little success. The different companies killed a number of

antelopes here.

_Sunday, 4th._--We are still encamped, and shall remain in our position

till the morning of the 5th. I took a walk, to “wagon mound,” so called

from the shape of its top, being like a covered wagon when seen in

the distance. This mountain top is surrounded by a cliff of craggy

rocks at least 100 feet in height. A most beautiful view is presented

to the beholder. To the south you see hills covered with cedar and

pine, situated in the immense prairie; to the north and north-west,

are seen mountains with rocks piled upon rocks, with here and there

groves of evergreens; far away to the east, is the desert, over which

we had just passed. The sides of this mountain are covered with a

hard kind of sand, and pumice stone, having the appearance of cinder.

Whilst I am writing, being situated as far up as it is prudent to go,

an adventurous fellow by the name of George Walton, has gained the

wagon top, two others have also ascended, an achievement that few can

perform. North of us there is a salt lake which we intend to visit this

evening.

_Sunday Afternoon._--Lieut. Smith and myself took a stroll to the

lake. We found a thick crust of salt around its edge, which is several

miles in circumference. We returned to camp by a mountain path, very

difficult to travel.

_5th._--Eighteen miles were passed over to-day, through a mountainous

country. We had just erected our tents and prepared for rest, when an

evidence that we were approaching some civilized country, arrived in

the shape of a Frenchman, who met us here with a travelling grocery.

This concern came from Moras--a barrel of whiskey was strapped on the

back of a poor mule--which stuff, some of our soldiers were foolish

enough to drink: it sells at $1 per pint. Such dear drinking ought to

make drunkards scarce.

_6th._--Saw a mud cottage on the road side to-day. The sight was most

pleasant to our eyes, accustomed as they were for forty-four days to a

wild waste. As we rode up, every one must have a look into the house.

It was inhabited by a native of North Carolina, whose wife is a Spanish

woman. After being somewhat gratified with the sight of a house, though

built of mud with its flat roof, we went on 18 miles, and encamped at a

town called Rio Gallenas Bagoes. On visiting this place we were struck

with the singular appearance of the town and its inhabitants. The town

consists of mud huts containing apartments built on the ground. The men

were engaged in pounding cornstalks from which sugar is made; the women

with faces tattooed and painted red, were making tortillas. We ate

some, and found them excellent.

_7th._--The wagons which contained our provisions coming in sight, we

prepared the wood, which we obtained with difficulty, for boiling the

coffee, &c., when Col. Mitchell rode up and told us the wind was too

high to encamp. And hungry as we were, we went ahead 17 miles through

a forest of pine to Ledo Barnell, where we encamped for the night. A

grisly bear was killed to-day by some members of the Randolph Company.

_8th._--We passed the large village of San Miguel to-day. Col. Mitchell

and his interpreter went forward in search of a good place to encamp.

The weather was dry and pleasant, with a suitable temperature for

travelling. The most disagreeable annoyance is the sand, which is very

unpleasant when the wind is high.

_9th._--Col. Mitchell had chosen a spot for our encampment, about

12 miles from our last resting place, near the foot of a mountain.

There was no water to be found. Impelled by necessity we followed an

Indian trail over the mountain 5 miles, and after riding through the

thick pines for several hours we found the coveted treasure. As may be

supposed we drank most heartily, after which we filled our canteens and

returned to camp about 12 o’clock at night. We learned that Santa Fe

was about 25 miles off.

_10th._--We arrived at the mountain pass at 10 o’clock, and reached

Santa Fe about 3 o’clock in the afternoon. The glorious stars and

stripes floating over the city was the first object that greeted our

sight. We formed and marched into the town in order. We were received

with martial music and several rounds of blank cartridges were fired

as a welcome to us. We paraded in the square fronting the Governor’s

house. After parade I took a walk through the town. The wagons did not

arrive with our tents in time for us to encamp, and with our blankets

around us, we laid down to rest. The blue sky was our canopy.

_Sunday, 11th._--It was so cold and disagreeable last night that I

found it impossible to sleep. I shivered through the night on the hard

soil, and rose this morning with a severe headache. I walked about to

keep myself warm. After eating three small crackers for breakfast,

I went to church in company with several others, to hear a Catholic

priest. The music was prettily performed on various instruments. An old

man in the meantime turning round before an image, and after he had

bowed to the people several times the music ceased. All was over--and

we returned to camp. I felt sick and sad, for the worship did not

refresh my spirits. This evening I was pall-bearer to a member of the

Benton Company, who died in the hospital soon after his arrival. We

carried him out about a mile from the city to his final resting place.

Four others were buried to-day, who died from fatigue and exhaustion.

They belonged to the different companies. The muffled roll of the drum,

and the firing of the farewell to the dead, did not have a tendency to

cheer me.

_12th._--This morning the roll was called, and various duties assigned

the soldiers. Some had to work on the Fort, and others to cut and haul

wood. In the latter employment I had to become teacher to some green

hands. I found the task very troublesome--but performed it to the best

of my ability. In the evening I wrote letters to my friends in Maryland.

_15th._--The two past days have been employed in preparations for

our departure from Santa Fe. We have encountered much trouble and

perplexity in getting teams, &c., have to travel 80 miles up the

mountains where we shall take up our winter quarters. We went out

6 miles and encamped. Having a severe headache, I tried my best to

get some rest at night, but I had scarcely fallen asleep, when I was

awakened by the officer to stand guard. I arose mechanically, feeling

pretty much as I should suppose a fellow might feel who was on his way

to execution. Taking up my gun I went to a large fire, where I sat

quietly for two hours, watching my feelings more than I did the camp,

for I was very unwell.

_16th._--The breaking down of some wagons detained us here till late.

After starting we met a number of Spaniards, mounted on mules. We

passed some little patches of corn badly cultivated, which they dignify

with the name of farms. A messmate wishing some red pepper, I called

with him at a house, but it was all “_no comprenda_”--“_dont understand

you_,” so we got no red pepper. We went on to the next habitation

through a broken country; here we found our third Lieutenant with the

interpreter arranging for our camp. As we had to wait for the other

companies to come up, I rested on some corn shucks, and very pleasantly

did the bed feel. It was a bed of down in comparison with that to which

I had been accustomed. I had slept on the ground for more than three

months. Nothing grows spontaneously in this country but the Spanish

broom.

_17th._--Colds, and other complaints, are becoming common in our ranks.

After the fatigue of marching on foot heavily armed, we were illy

calculated to do the duties of the camp. Our horses being too much

enfeebled for further use, after our arrival at Santa Fe, were sent up

the mountain to recruit. Thus our hardships increase with our progress.

The ground being very broken where we encamped to-night, which is in a

wheat field, I gathered all the stubble I could, to make our beds soft

and even--bought some wood to cook with from the natives.

_18th._--I started alone, and tried to overtake two messmates who

had gone on before me. I had not proceeded more than 6 miles when I

found my two young gentlemen playing cards on the road side. I passed

them, and came to a village where I saw a considerable number of

Spaniards. An old woman invited me in her house and set before me some

tortillas and cornstalk-molasses which were quite a treat. I remained

there several hours, but thinking I had missed my way I was about

to take leave, with many thanks for their hospitality, when, to my

great surprise and embarrassment, the old lady and her daughter most

affectionately embraced me. I suppose it was the custom among these

simple hearted mountaineers, but of which I was quite ignorant. I was

thankful for the meal my hostesses had provided for me, but the hugging

was a luxury I did not anticipate, nor was I the least ambitious of

having it repeated. I found my company without much difficulty. We

went on and crossed the Rio Grande. In the first stream I got my feet

wet; the second was too deep for wading, and I was kindly invited by

our Sergeant to mount behind him. We encamped there, having travelled

12 miles that day.

_19th._--We were surrounded by the natives, who appeared friendly.

When we came to the place where our horses were feeding, we learned

from the soldiers in charge, that some of them had died, and that

several had been stolen or had strayed away--mine, of course, was among

the missing. While the others were preparing to mount, I shouldered

my musket and walked on, in sand half a foot deep. The walk was

exceedingly tiresome. I saw large quantities of wild geese on the Rio

Grande. After marching 8 miles we encamped.

_20th._--All on horseback this morning in fine style, except myself

and a few others equally unfortunate. We made the best use of our

scrapers through the sand. After walking awhile we came to a house on

the road side, the inhabitants of which, men, women and children came

rushing out. We were at a loss to know what it meant, till we saw them

surround a colored man, (our Surgeon’s cook,) who proved a novel sight

to them. The poor fellow was quite mortified at being made a show of on

account of his color. We went on 8 miles and encamped among the Utah

Indians. They are at war with the Navihoes, who have hunted them nearly

down. After supper I asked permission of our Captain to accompany Mr.

White, and several others to their encampment. Here, around a large

fire sat an Indian chief with his squaws. After being introduced by

our interpreter, a council was called. After some jabbering, a regular

war-dance commenced. Their best warriors, equipped in full costume,

and painted most hideously in twenty different ways--danced furiously

around a large fire, to the music of kettles and drums. It was a horrid

din, in which mingled the war-whoop. We gazed with astonishment till

its conclusion, when an old chief made a long speech. We then returned

to our camp to meditate upon what we had seen and heard, and to wonder

at the strangeness of character and habit exhibited by those poor

creatures.

_21st._--We were surrounded by the Indians before our breakfast was

over. They came on to Abique, and encamped near us. There are several

villages in this place. We arrived about two o’clock, and took up our

quarters. The companies under Major Gilpin which were stationed there,

and which we had been sent to relieve, were greatly worn and reduced

with their long stay among the mountains. There was another dance at

night in the Indian camp--being much tormented with sandburs, I did not

go out. We had to eat our provisions half cooked, from the scarcity

of wood. I and a messmate were forced to “hook” two small poles from

a fodder crib, and when we returned to camp we found the companies on

parade, and the Captain telling them the order of the next day.

_22d._--The whole command, viz. two companies from Col. Price’s

Regiment, consisting of about one hundred and eighty men, were obliged

to remove to-day four miles further up the river, in order to obtain

grass and fuel. This place being entirely destitute of either. At

night, I went with our interpreter and third Lieutenant to several

houses, to buy mutton. While on our errand we met with some ladies; one

of them had a dough face; all the rest were smeared with red, and to my

fancy, not at all beautiful. We returned to camp without our mutton,

and not a little disappointed.

_23d._--The country here is bare and sterile to a great degree, but

there is an improvement with regard to fuel, which is so necessary at

this season, in this mountainous country. I believe we are stationary

at last. I was kept busy all day writing letters for the soldiers,

many of whom very gladly do my washing and mending in return, for this

slight service. I had rather at any time write than cook and wash and

mend clothes.

_24th._--I felt sick to-day. I took cold from a severe drenching, while

on duty as a sentinel last night. A heavy cold rain was falling the

whole time. I strove to assist in making our camp as comfortable as

possible, and in the evening despatched two letters to Santa Fe, for

my beloved friends in Maryland.

_Sunday, 25th._--At day-break this morning, a number of Mexicans came

to camp; jabbering to themselves in a great rage about something. At

first we could not ascertain the cause of their trouble, there being

no interpreter present, and none of the soldiers knowing enough of

the Spanish language to comprehend their meaning; soon, however, it

was discovered that about sundown last evening, the Captain of our

company had caused the embankment of their mill and irrigating pond,

to be broken, a short distance above camp on the bank of the river, so

as to prevent it from overflowing the bed of his tent. The water of

course rushed out with great force, tearing the embankment down and

washing the earth away for a considerable distance, stopping their mill

and leaving many families destitute of water; all of which serious

injuries, the Captain seemed disinclined to repair. This behavior of

the Captain met with but little favor from his men. To their honor be

it spoken.

_26th._--This morning our Lieutenant went round the camp to get

volunteers to repair the broken ditch. All seemed unwilling to do

any thing--some had their horses to find, others to cut and haul

wood. The men had no idea of laboring gratuitously for the repair of

a deed wantonly done by their Captain. I with several others walked

four miles up the river, with our axes, for the purpose of getting

wood. We crossed the river several times in the wildest and most

out-of-the-way places, between high cragged mountains which it was

impossible to ascend. We returned to camp with our wagon loaded, though

we encountered great difficulty in accomplishing it. We found there

was a disagreeable misunderstanding among the officers respecting the

embankment. The Captain wished soldiers detailed for its repair, and

the Lieutenants thinking it an imposition on the poor fellows to stand

in the mud to work such cold weather, without compensation.

* * * * *

_28th._--We are now living in the midst of the greatest abundance of

life’s luxuries. As an evidence of our high living, I will transcribe

our bill of fare for the week. It is as follows:

Monday.--Bread, beef, (tough as leather,) bean soup.

Tuesday.--Tough beef, bread, and bean soup.

Wednesday.--Bean soup, bread, and tough beef--and so on to the end of

the week.

The greatest _harmony_ prevails in camp, especially among the officers,

the Captain and first Lieutenant are the greatest _friends_ imaginable,

they do every thing in their power for the good of the company. They

are the _bravest_ and most _patriotic_ officers in the regiment. In

this lovely and fertile valley, encamped on the banks of the Rio

Charma, we are enjoying all the _blessings_ of life. We are charmed by

the surpassing beauty of the polished Spanish ladies, and living in

so much _harmony_ with each other that we almost imagine the “garden

of Eden” to have been again raised for our enjoyment; and then, Oh!

heavens, what a luxury, amid these joys, to feel the delightful

sensations produced by the gentle and graceful movements of a Spanish

_louse_ as he journeys over one’s body! The very thought of it makes me

poetic, and I cannot resist the temptation of dedicating a line to the

memory of moments so exquisite. How appropriate are the words of Moore

to such occasions of bliss?

Oft in the stilly night,

Ere slumber’s chains have bound me,

I feel the cursed creatures bite,

As scores are crawling round me.

O not like one who treads alone,

The banquet halls deserted;--

In crowds they crawl despite the groan

Of him whose blood they started.

When I took up my Journal to add a few items, I found the above had

been written by some wag, in my absence. He was disposed to ridicule

my description of the felicity of which I boasted. Our boys are rather

mischievous, and I must confess that I felt rather waggish myself

when I made the boast of our possessing Eden-like pleasures. The

continuation of my narrative pleased me so well that I consented to

let it remain as it was written. Our mischievous feeling and manner of

expression is the most innocent way in which we can relieve ourselves,

for we privates are suffering many privations while some of our

officers refuse to speak to each other. I am glad, however, that our

troubles are so merrily turned into ridicule, the best way sometimes

to treat them. We are not destitute of sport however--many amusing

scenes occur among us, debating societies are formed among the soldiers

in which the most absurd questions are dilated upon with a vehemence

and mock seriousness truly laughable. A breakfast of coffee without

sugar, some very poor beef soup, and onions sliced up with parched

corn, made a better meal for us to-day than we have had for some days

past. Yesterday I traded off _two needles_ to the Spanish girls for

six ears of corn and some onions, it was a trade decidedly profitable

for both parties. In company with our first Lieutenant, his brother,

William White, Dr. Dunlap, and a number of others, I went up on a high

peak of the Rocky Mountains. We had been there but a few minutes when

it commenced snowing. We kindled a large fire, and amused ourselves by

listening to the reverberations of sound produced by our Lieutenant’s

revolver, who fired six rounds. Becoming thirsty, we searched and found

water in the crevice of the rock close to the edge of the precipice.

It was too far below the surface for us to drink by stooping over, and

William White proposed to throw in gravel, in order to raise the water,

reminding me of one of Æsop’s fables. We followed his advice and the

water was soon forced to rise high enough for our purpose. The snow

increasing, we came down and made another fire in a large hollow of the

rock, where all but myself sat down to cards. It was an amusement that

I did not relish, and I sought my gratification in loosing the rocks

and rolling them down the side of the mountain, which is at least a

thousand feet above the level of our camp.

_29th._--To-day, Charles Perkins and myself took our guns and proceeded

down the river several miles in search of game. We fired at several

flocks of wild geese and ducks, but it only scared them further off. We

passed several Spanish houses on our return. When we reached the camp

we found the soldiers at different employments, some playing cards,

and others making articles to sell to the natives. A Mr. Hatfield was

engaged in the manufacture of a _grindstone_ to trade to the Spaniards

for corn and beans. These, with onions, are the only vegetables they

grow.

_30th._--The mountains are covered with snow, and, after raining

hard all night, this morning it is clear and cold. We made the

best preparations we could to send the wagons back to Santa Fe for

provisions, as late last night, our second Lieutenant returned, after

an absence of five days, and brought news that we are to take up our

winter quarters in this dreadful region. There seems to be very little

likelihood of our going south at all. The officers went in search of

other quarters to-day.

_31st._--We had a heavy fall of rain last night, which improved into

a snow-storm before morning. I slept very uncomfortably, as a high

wind from the north had full sweep in the door of our tent. We were

inspected at 11 o’clock, and carried through all the evolutions of the

drill. After the parade we could scarcely keep warm, though wrapped in

our blankets, and crowded around the fire. Yesterday one of our beef

cattle died from starvation. The Mexicans came down and took it off to

their habitations. We might have made a speculation by selling it but

did not think of it.

_Sunday, November 1st._--Several of my mess are going up the mountains

to look for their horses. I offered a friend $5 (should I ever again

possess that sum) to search for mine. I read aloud in my Testament to

some of the boys, while others sat apart, or pitched quoits. At night a

Spaniard came in camp with a fiddle, and played a number of tunes which

so exhilarated my poor half frozen companions that they united in a

dance which they kept up till a late hour.

_2nd._--Some Taos flour, coarsely ground in the little native mills

on the Rio Grande, badly baked in the ashes, and some coffee without

sugar, now comprise our only sustenance. Between meals, however, we

parch some corn, which we now and then procure of the natives in

exchange for buttons, needles, or any little matter we can spare. At

9 o’clock, we struck our tents, and marched down the river two miles

to a deserted Spanish house nearly in ruins. The inhabitants were

murdered by the Navihoe Indians. This is the place where we are to take

up our winter quarters. I can scarcely describe this wretched den. The

soldiers have looked in and they have become very dissatisfied. They

were told by the Captain to erect their tents inside the wall. All

the houses in this region having that protection. We could not sleep

in the house on account of the offensive odor. The tent was much more

comfortable.

_3d._--As soon as our breakfast of beef soup and coffee was over, some

of the men were appointed to scrape and clean the house. I with several

others was sent to the mountains to cut and haul wood. After walking

two miles, we procured a load of green pine, which does not grow here

more than half the usual size. On the return, I thought I would take

a near cut to our camp alone. I turned into a foot-path, which led me

to the top of a high mountain. Here I could see our quarters, though a

long distance off. I took a direct course, and soon arrived at camp,

where I found our boys writing down a vocabulary of Spanish words. They

have become very erudite of late.

_4th._--All this day we did nothing but write down words from the

language spoken by the people, who, from their complexion, appear to

be a mixture of the Spanish and Indian races. We made a pretty good

dictionary among us.

_5th._--This day is very unpleasant. It is raining hard. At 4 o’clock,

our first Lieutenant, Mr. White, returned from Santa Fe. He brought bad

news. He could get no provisions, except one-fourth rations of flour,

and one and a half barrels of mess pork. But notwithstanding all this,

our boys are still very lively.

_6th._--We had great labor to-day in procuring fuel sufficient for our

present purpose, and the prospect of a long and severe winter before

us makes our situation rather unenviable.

_7th._--On short allowance yesterday and to-day, a little bread, (i. e.

two pints for six men,) some fried beef, and coffee without sugar.

_Sunday, 8th._--Although the morning was cloudy and cold, I walked

with twenty others down to Abique to church. On arriving we went into

the priest’s room. He very politely invited us to be seated, and then

commenced asking all kinds of questions about the United States. He

seemed to take great interest in teaching us the Spanish language. He

made us repeat after him, many long and hard words. We sat two hours

with him and then went in church, where a large congregation was

assembled. In a few minutes our priest made his appearance, dressed in

gold lace, and ascended the pulpit, while all present fell on their

knees. The music of various instruments now commenced, the priest the

meanwhile, drinking sundry glasses of wine. The people remained on

their knees till the music ceased, when all retired.

It was noised among the soldiers that a fandango would take place in

the evening. Some of us went in to inquire of the priest, who informed

us that the fandango was to be at a village some miles further off. In

a little while, a Mexican guide was hired to escort us. After walking

a mile we came to a river, when this Spanish fellow, very quietly

sat down to pull off his shoes, and told all who were in favor of

wading the stream to follow his example. Eight of the boys immediately

commenced stripping to cross, declaring that nothing should disappoint

them from attending a fandango. As I had a bad cold, with some others,

who felt no inclination to wet their feet, I returned to our quarters.

_9th._--All this day in the mountains cutting wood.

_10th._--I went with several others to search for lost horses. We had

not gone far when to my great joy I found mine, which had not been seen

since we left Santa Fe. We heard volleys of musketry in the direction

of our camp, and were at a loss to understand the meaning, till on our

return, we learned that a dog had been buried with the honors of war.

This poor dog had been a great favorite with our Captain and all the

company; he was most foolishly shot by a soldier on guard last night.

The man was made to dig his grave, and will be detailed on extra duty

as a punishment, the Captain being much exasperated. This evening I,

with four others took rations for five days, in order to drive the

horses down the river to graze. Late at night, we reached a Spanish

village, where we stopped. A mile from that place, a fandango was to

come off, and the ladies of the place were preparing for the dance.

They were nicely equipped in their best finery, and the soldiers were

engaged to accompany them. Not being very desirous of attending the

fandango, I preferred to remain and try to get some rest, of which

I was very much in need. The party was soon prepared, and off they

started, leaving me behind to cook supper and arrange matters for their

comfort when they should return. I browned the coffee, fried the beef,

made the bread, and having all things in readiness, I drank a cup of

coffee and laid down to rest on a mattress placed on the floor. As far

as the thing I laid on was concerned, I was comfortable enough; the

mattress was a luxury; but I could not sleep; the reasons were various.

I was lying in a house, when I was accustomed to dwell in tents;--my

quarters were divided between myself several donkies and mules and two

small children--the odor of the donkies was not the most agreeable, nor

their noise very harmonious; the children knew their mother was out and

did their best at crying. The woman had gone to the fandango, where I

hope she enjoyed better music than that which she left for the lulling

of my sensibilities into sweet slumbers.

_11th._--Our soldiers did not return from the fandango till 3 o’clock

this morning, and I was appointed to get breakfast while they slept. I

had considerable trouble in accomplishing this service, as the girls

crowded around the fire, and I had frequently to pass the frying

pan over the naked feet of a pretty girl who was sitting near me.

In company with a young Spaniard, who was exceedingly agreeable and

polite, I went out after breakfast to kill wild geese. We walked a

long distance, and returned unsuccessful.

_12th._--I find the family residing here, very agreeable. I was

invited, and almost forced to accompany them to a fandango last night

(for they do little else but dance.) All on horseback, the married men

mounted behind their wives, we started. A little baby in its mother’s

arms becoming troublesome, one of our men, who said he was a married

man, most gallantly rode up, and offered to carry the little creature.

The mother thankfully resigned it to his charge. There was more

pleasure in the idea of enjoyment at the fandango than in taking care

of a cross child. When we arrived at Abique, an old man invited us to

partake of his hospitality;--an invitation we gladly accepted. We went

in accordingly, and after all were seated on the floor in the posture

of a tailor, a large earthen vessel was placed before us containing

pepper sauce and soup; and a few tortillas, (a thin paste made of

corn rubbed between flat stones.) The sauce caused my mouth to burn

to a blister. The people are very fond of condiments, and become so

accustomed to them that what will burn a stranger’s mouth has no effect

upon theirs. After all was over, we went across the street to attend

the fandango. From the crowd, I should judge it was high in favor with

all classes of the community. Some of the performers were dressed in

the most fantastic style, and some scarcely dressed at all. The ladies

and gentlemen whirled around with a rapidity quite painful to behold,

and the music pealed in deafening sounds. I took my seat near a pretty

girl, and every time she leaned on my shoulder, which she did pretty

often, her beau would shake his head in token of his displeasure, and

showing his jealous disposition. I left the place about 10 o’clock, and

returned to our quarters.

_13th._--We visited our camp to-day at the Spanish ruins. The Captain

and officers were glad to see us, especially as we had good news in

relation to the horses. We had them in charge, and exhibited them to

our comrades as the trophies of our success. On our return, we killed

two wild geese and four rabbits, which we found a great help to our

stock of provisions which was then very low.

_14th._--I was left alone with the Spaniards to-day, while our boys

were attending to the horses. My Spanish friends are very courteous,

but there is little to relieve the monotony of our intercourse, as from

my ignorance of the language I am unable to converse with them.

_15th._--This morning we had one of our wild geese stewed for

breakfast, which we had without coffee, and almost without bread. After

breakfast I started to camp to draw provisions of some kind. When at

camp I concluded to remain there.

_16th._--I was told by the Sergeant to-day, that there was no flour

to issue. He referred me to the Captain, who directed young Bales and

myself to a mill some distance off, where we procured 60_lbs._ of

unsifted Taos flour very coarsely prepared. With this, we returned, and

in a few minutes nearly the whole was appropriated to the use of the

half-starved soldiers. A very small portion of this brown flour fell

to our share. This evening we are without food, or nearly so. Martin

Glaze, an old veteran, who has seen service, and belongs to my mess,

got a few ears of corn and parched it in a pan, with a small piece of

pork to make it greasy. When it was done, we all sat around the fire

and ate our supper of parched corn greased with fat pork. The weather

to-night is extremely cold.

_17th._--Awoke early this morning and found it snowing very hard. At

10 o’clock I went to our first Lieutenant’s quarters. He was engaged

in appraising some cattle which are pressed into our service, and for

which the natives were to be paid. A bull has just been killed, and the

offals are being greedily devoured by our poor fellows. At 11 o’clock

to-day our third Corporal died, having been sick with camp fever and

inflammation of the brain several weeks. At 3 o’clock his grave was dug

and the poor fellow was wrapped in his blanket--and buried without a

coffin. To-night there are several of our men sick with the measles,

supposed by our Surgeon to have been brought from Santa Fe.

_18th._--The snow four inches deep--clear and very cold--another grave

dug to-day for a member of the Livingston company, making five who

have died since we have been out here. They are all buried near the

mountain, where poor Johnson was laid.

_20th._--The past two days have been employed in procuring wood, which

is hard labor; but we do not complain as our fare is improved by the

addition of bean soup and coffee.

_21st._--A court martial was held this morning to try our fourth

Sergeant, who has said something derogatory to the character of our

Orderly. After the court adjourned, we were ordered to form a line.

Our first Lieutenant then stood in front and read the proceedings

of the court. The decision was that our fourth Sergeant be reduced

to the ranks, for slander. It was ordered that if any man, or men

should thereafter bring false charges against the officers, he or

they, should be sent with a file of soldiers to Santa Fe, and tried at

head quarters, &c. The company was then dismissed. Several of my mess

concluded to run as candidates for the vacant place. They went among

the crowd with tobacco and parched corn, electioneering. I was placed

on guard at 9, and had to stand till 11 o’clock.

_Sunday, 22d._--A gloomy Sabbath morning--I felt badly, but concluded

to go to church at Abique. As soon as the ceremonies were ended I went

in the priest’s room in company with my old friend Capt. Markle and

several officers. After sitting awhile, a servant brought in a dish of

refreshments, consisting of pies and wine. Placing the glass to my lips

I discovered it to be _Taos whiskey_, as strong as alcohol. A piece of

the pie, I thought might take away the unpleasant taste, so I crowded

my mouth full, and found--alas! it was composed of onions, a dreadful

fix indeed, for a hungry man, Taos whiskey and onion pie!--the very

thought of the mess makes my mouth burn. When I returned to camp I

found nearly every individual busily engaged at cards. Elias Barber, a

messmate, was taken sick with the measles. The disease, is now raging

among the troops.

_23d._--We had great trouble in procuring fuel to-day. We had to travel

far up the mountain for it, and it is exceedingly difficult to cook

with it out of doors in the deep snow. It fell to my lot to make the

bread, and I had much ado to-night, to make the mass stick together. I

felt more than usual fatigue after the parade.

_24th._--Elias Barber is very sick to-day. He spent a wretched

night last night in a thin cotton tent. The wind is blowing on him

constantly, while the measles are out very thick. I went to the Captain

this morning and informed him of the situation of the young man. He

told me if I could procure a place in the house, he might be brought

in. I therefore went and after making preparations to move him, I was

told that no such thing should be done. I then tried to get an extra

tent to place over the one we are sleeping in, and even this was

denied me. The poor fellow is lying out of doors, exposed to all the

inclemency of this cold climate. And last night it was so cold that the

water became frozen in our canteens. The Surgeon appears interested,

but it is all to no purpose--nothing further is done for the comfort of

the sufferer. May the Lord deliver me from the tender mercies of such

men!

_25th._--I felt quite unwell all day to-day. I suffered much from a

severe attack of diarrhœa. Our lodgings are very uncomfortable. I went

down to the Rio Grande to get water, and found it nearly frozen over. A

great mortality prevails among the troops who are dying from exposure

and disease.

_26th._--I was very much engaged all day, in nursing poor Barber. He is

worse to-day, the measles having disappeared from the surface. I sat

by him the livelong night and listened to his delirious ravings, and I

felt sad to think I had no means of relief. At 4 o’clock this morning

the Captain came, and finding him so ill, brought out a tent to cover

the one he laid in.

_27th._--Last night, my messmate Philips returned from Santa Fe,

with a message from Col. Price to the different Captains, to send on

ten men from each company, as an escort for Col. Mitchell, who was

about to start for Chihuahua. From thence he is to proceed to open a

communication with General Wool. To-day an express arrived from Col.

Mitchell for the same purpose. We were hastily paraded to ascertain how

many would volunteer to go, when I, with five others of my company,

stepped out of the ranks, and had our names enrolled. We were satisfied

that we could not render our situation worse, and hoped any change

might be for the better. We hastened to the grazing ground, over the

mountain, for our horses, which occupied us all day. Mine was gone of

course. To prevent delay, I gave my note to a young man for a horse

which belonged to a deceased soldier.

_28th._--A full company having been made up, this morning we gathered

at our quarters, and were ready at 8 o’clock to take leave of our

kind hearted comrades. They bid us “good-bye,” with many expressions

of regret, and injunctions to write often. We pursued our journey 35

miles, and put up late in the evening at the house of a rich Spaniard,

who accommodated us with an empty room twenty feet square, but it

had so small a fireplace that we could not use it for our culinary

purposes, so we were forced to do most of our cooking in the open air.

It fell to my lot as usual to make the bread, and I kneaded forty

pounds of Taos flour in a mass, and baked thirty-six good sized cakes,

while two others prepared our camp kettles of coffee, &c.

_Sunday, 29th._--At 4 o’clock we ate our breakfast, and were on the

road by day-light. We travelled all day without stopping, and arrived

at Santa Fe at 6 o’clock in the evening. We went immediately to the

American Hotel where supper was provided for us. Nineteen men sat down

to the table, none of whom had enjoyed such a privilege for nearly four

months. All were hungry, and it was amusing to see how we tried to eat

our landlord out of house and home. After supper we retired to our

quarters in a very small room.

_30th._--Word was sent from Col. Mitchell this morning for us to parade

before the Governor’s house for inspection. Our horses were also

examined, and all being found in good order for the trip, we were

dismissed and conducted to our quarters, in the court house; where we

drew our rations, viz. thirty pounds of good American flour, with pork

enough to last five days.

_December 1st._--Paraded again soon after breakfast, and were told by

our Captain, that previously to our departure, we must all march to

the sutler’s store, and acknowledge our indebtedness to him, so up we

rode in right order and dismounted. We had a peep at our accounts, and

I found mine to be $30 75. I had purchased a few articles of clothing

on my route, being forced to do so from necessity. I was therefore not

surprised at the amount, especially when I read the prices of some the

articles, viz. a small cotton handkerchief $1--suspenders $1--flannel

shirt $3--tin coffee pot $1 50, &c. &c. Here we bade farewell to our

Captains, who had accompanied us to Santa Fe to see us off. Captain

Williams shook me cordially by the hand, saying, he had no expectation

of seeing me again in this world. Captain Hudson now took charge, and

rode with us two miles out of town--here he informed us, we had a

dangerous road to travel, but would leave us to the care of Lieutenant

Todd for two days, till we were joined by Col. Mitchell and himself.

He returned to town, and we came on four miles and stopped at a house,

whose master sold us forage for our horses and wood, it being severely

cold. Sixty of us occupied two large rooms for the night.

_2d._--We marched 25 miles to a place called San Domingo, and took

quarters in a deserted house. This is a considerable place, with a

handsome church, which was being illuminated when we arrived. In a

little time the bells began to ring, and there was a firing of musketry

and considerable commotion at the door of the church. Several of our

soldiers were induced to go up and inquire into the meaning of the

uproar. We were told that a converted Indian chief had just died, and

all this was to prevent him from going down to purgatory. The roll

of the drum and firing continued a long time, when the ceremonies

commenced in the church, from the door of which we saw many large

wax candles burning, but not being permitted to enter we very quietly

retired.

_3d._--After travelling six miles we came to an Indian village called

San Felippe, and two miles further down the Rio Grande we encamped

in the midst of a good pasture for our horses. After supper, our

Lieutenant told me I was honored with the appointment of Captain of the

watch. In consequence of this distinction, I had to be up nearly all

night. It was very cold. We were now comparatively happy, for we had

plenty of good flour from the States, with coffee, sugar, &c.

_4th._--We learn that we shall be obliged to stay here till Col.

Mitchell comes up with the other company, so we seize the opportunity

to have our horses shod. Two blacksmiths are now at work; I have just

bought a set of shoes and nails from our sutler for $3.

_5th._--The weather has moderated somewhat, but the face of the country

presents nothing inviting at this season of the year. Every thing has

a desolate and wintry appearance. There being no food for our horses,

we chopped down some limbs of the cotton wood tree for them to eat.

We then went to a Mexican village to buy corn. Having no money, I

took some tobacco and buttons to trade for the corn. While here, I

sold my greasy blanket for a Navihoe one, with a meal for my horse in

the bargain. The man with whom I traded was very kind; he set before

me some corn, mush and sausages, but being seasoned with onions, I

declined eating. He then brought in some corn stalk molasses, which

I mixed with water and drank, thanking him for his hospitality. I

returned to camp, when I found that Col. Mitchell, and the baggage

wagons had arrived. I was officer of the guard to-night, and up till 12

o’clock.

_Sunday, 6th._--Formed in line by our Colonel in the midst of a heavy

shower of rain, and marched down the Rio Grande, a long distance. Our

course is due south, keeping the river constantly on our right, and

ranges of mountains on our left hand. We passed many villages, and at

night encamped near one.

_7th._--Rising early this morning to prepare breakfast, I found the

snow four inches deep, and still snowing very fast. Marched in right

order 15 miles, and after passing several towns situated on the banks

of the river, we stopped at night at the large town of Albikirk. Here

are garrisoned one hundred and fifty regulars; near whose quarters

we encamped in a large room 100 feet by 40. In this place we found a

number of soldiers, some engaged in tailoring, some playing cards, and

others amusing themselves in various ways.

_8th._--The country through which we passed to-day is thickly dotted

over with towns and villages, whose names I cannot remember, but the

road is dismal enough, being still among the mountains, where every

object the eye rests upon is covered with snow. The cold is very

intense. We pitched our tents to-night under the walls of a town. We

had six small ears of corn for our horses, and no fodder. I went to the

Quarter Master and was informed by him that the Mexicans had refused

to sell us any thing. I cut some buttons from a uniform jacket, and

with them tried to purchase food for my horse, but I was refused every

where. I sat down and made out a requisition, and with several others

went to their large stacks, ten feet high, which we ascended, and

threw down a large turn for each. We succeeded in coming off with our

booty, and in a few minutes, we were in bed. We were not disturbed in

conscience in the least, being fully covered by the axiom, “necessity

knows no law.”

_9th._--We were called up this morning to lead our horses into ranks,

when two guns and a sabre were missing. They had been taken from the

tents by the Mexicans. After the line was formed, Col. Mitchell ordered

the men who had lost their arms, to march out. He then told them they

would be left behind to search the town, assisted by the alcalde, and

if they should not find their arms they would have to return to Santa

Fe. We then left; marched ten miles and encamped near a village. Our

interpreter was sent to procure forage for the horses, but he returned

with the news that none could be had. Our Captain told the Sergeant to

go up with a file of soldiers and _take_ what was wanting. He formed

a line of twenty men, I among them, and marched off with our Orderly

at the head, and second Sergeant, with the bags to put the corn in. At

the door of the house, we were ordered to halt. The lock was broken,

and we entered, filled our sacks and packed them down to the camp. In

this adventure I made the acquaintance of a young man by the name of

Hepbourn. He was born and raised in Prince George’s County, Md. After

supper, we were all ordered up to draw fifteen rounds of cartridges. A

strong guard was ordered out to-night.

_10th._--Having orders to march very early, we rose by light and

proceeded down the river 18 miles, the country presenting very much

the appearance already described. We saw a few vineyards, surrounded

by walls. I felt miserably disordered from the cold and loss of rest.

I was just about to sit down to supper, which I thought might revive

me, when our Orderly came by, requesting the men to form in line

immediately, as the Captain wished to read the Articles of War. We

stood just one hour and listened to the dry detail. When the reading

was concluded, we returned to our tents. After supper, sixteen men were

detailed on guard. I stood two hours the first watch, and three hours

before day-light. It was extremely cold.

_11th._--The roll was called at day-break, and after parade we

continued our march 12 miles and encamped in a town among the

mountains. Wood was very scarce, and the severity of the weather

increasing.

_12th._--We eat our breakfast at day-light. It consisted of mess

pork and bread, half baked by a miserable fire. We went 12 miles to

a place where there is a fine supply of wood. Our poor fellows had

the satisfaction of having a good fire all night, and it was very

necessary, for the weather was tempestuous with cold gusts of wind and

snow.

_Sunday, 13th._--At one o’clock this morning I awoke and found myself

so cold that I arose and went to the guard-fire to thaw myself. I stood

by the fire till day-light. The Captain in his round to visit the

guard, stopped at the fire, and I had a pleasant chat with him. He is

very clever and condescending. He remained an hour or two, and then

woke up the Orderly to have all in readiness for a start. We came over

the mountain four miles, where our road intersected the river again,

passed a town, and further on encamped near the river. Our interpreter

bought a beef from the natives, also a little wood to cook it. The wild

geese are very numerous here.

_14th._--The roll was called very early this morning--and as my horse

had a sore back, I asked the Captain’s permission to walk behind the

wagons. I walked all this day and led my horse. When I came up to the

encampment I found that my mess had supper ready. It consisted of a

kind of chicken pie, bread and coffee. I relished the supper very

much, but by way of desert I received information that I had to stand

sentinel. I walked my post two hours and then went to bed; being too

cold to sleep, I got up at two o’clock, and went to the guard-fire. The

guard said he was very sleepy and would lie down if I would consent to

serve while he slept. To this I readily agreed--and he laid down, while

I made a large fire, which soon attracted the attention of the other

sentinels, and several of them collected around it. We enjoyed each

others conversation till the morning dawned.

_15th._--I woke up the Sergeant, who said we had walked our post four

hours over the time. I received the compliment, but did not tell him

that we had sat by the fire all the time. In his Irish brogue, and with

a pipe in his mouth, he proceeded to call the roll. We are to stay here

till the 17th.

_16th._--Having secured some beef, I made a large fire to get an early

breakfast. Yesterday our Quarter Master pressed a lot of seven very

good cattle from the Mexicans. Last night a strong guard of twenty men

was stationed around our camp. The weather is still raw and cold. We

are yet among the mountains.

_17th._--This morning we reached the _second crossing_ of the Rio

Grande. Four miles beyond the crossing, we overtook Col. Doniphan’s

command, and encamped near them. Having to walk and lead my horse, I

did not come up till all were fixed. I found our boys very angry at a

circumstance which they related and made me write down, with a promise

to publish it--which promise I now fulfil. While on the march to-day,

the Captain ordered a halt, and told the soldiers that he had been

requested by the Lieutenants to beg them all not to come near their

fire or tents, as it incommoded them greatly. He stated on his own

behalf, as well as on behalf of the other officers, that it was quite

a nuisance to have the privates lurking about their tents and fires.

He said that something might be “hooked” and that the Lieutenant had

already lost some saleratus, &c. This was a poser. Our poor fellows

could hardly endure it. Some of them were much exasperated. I tried

to soothe them, and told them no other harm was meant than a slight

intimation that we must keep away at meal times, as a knowledge of

their better fare might make us dissatisfied, &c. All passed off better

than I expected. We had to go a mile for water, and the thermometer at

zero.

_18th._--The situation of our tents was by no means pleasant. There was

much complaint about stones and hillocks, lying hard, &c. Breakfast

over, I started with the wagons, in company with some others, whose

horses’ backs were sore. I felt stupified from the cold and loss of

rest, having walked my round five hours last night. We went on 12

miles, which we trudged on foot. At night we cut some branches of the

cotton wood for our horses to eat. We were preparing to rest, when

our Captain told us, if any man lost his horse he would have to walk

back to Santa Fe. He further said, that we had to go through a gloomy

region or desert, 85 miles in extent, where no wood or water could

be procured. He advised us to go to work and prepare food enough to

last three or four days. I made up 30 lbs. of flour and baked eighteen

cakes, while the balance was attended to by my mess.

_19th._--We were all busy providing against the perils of our difficult

and dangerous march. We shall have to keep close company, as the

Navihoe Indians roam this desert in bands. At 11 o’clock we moved

off in fine order, and marched 15 miles over the dreary plain. At 8

o’clock at night the Captain ordered a halt. We picked up a few weeds,

kindled a little fire, took a cold cut of bread and meat, and laid on

the ground to rest, without erecting the tents. A young man having

drank too much of the “ardiente,” very unluckily offended one of the

officers, and was ordered to be tied to the wagon wheel. He cut a

variety of capers while this was being done. His friends soon set him

at liberty.

_20th._--The news of a “spring in the desert” was brought by some

scouts, who had started out on an exploring expedition. They found the

spring in a place full 6 miles from our road. We drove the cattle over

a miserably rough path to drink from the spring, which turned out to

be a muddy pool. We afterwards marched 15 miles and encamped late at

night. We took a slice of bread and meat and laid down to rest on our

blankets.

_21st._--The appearance of our Captain very early this morning aroused

us. He came with the intelligence that Major Gilpin had sent on an

express last night for a reinforcement, as he was expecting an attack

every moment from the enemy. In a few minutes we were on the march, and

without stopping to take breakfast we travelled 35 miles. We encamped

late at night 3 miles from the river, where men and beasts, thirsty

and weary, were refreshed. I was afraid my horse would kill himself

drinking. With six others, I pressed some oxen from the traders, whom

we found encamped here, as the most of our team had given out and were

left upon the road.

_22nd._--Passed over 14 miles of broken wretched country to-day, the

soil of which produces nothing but a kind of shrub called soap-weed.

The inhabitants, it is said, use this weed in washing their clothes. We

encamped in a rough place, among stones and hillocks.

_23rd._--I trust the end of this “_jornada_,” as it is called, and

which means the “region of death,” is nearly reached, for a march of 12

miles brought us to a village, where we halted to take in provisions

bought by our Quarter Master. Proceeding two miles further we came

up to Major Gilpin, whom we found encamped on a large sandy plain. We

had to go 2 or 3 miles for wood. Our flour was nearly gone, and we

had a little beef soup and rice for supper at night. The boys being

still hungry, we went to the village and procured some dried fruit and

pumpkins, which we sliced up and stewed in our camp kettles. Of this

fare we partook heartily, and laid down to sleep in the sand.

_24th._--The first blast of the bugle this morning made us hurry into

line. Some of the men being rather tardy, were too late, and they were

told by the officer who inspected us, that any man who did not come

into rank at the sound of the bugle, would be made to stand guard

three days. We broke ranks and ate our breakfast, which consisted of a

small piece of bread, made up with pumpkin. The weather is now quite

pleasant, and the country, hitherto so uniformly desolate, begins to

improve in appearance.