NEW GUINEA.
Voyage towards the St. Bartholomeus River.--Encounter a Multitude
of Whales.--Discover a Sand-bank.--Nautical Remarks.--Difficulty in
approaching the Land.--Sharks.--Crocodiles.--Discover a River.--The
Author ascends it.--Remarkable Behaviour of the Natives.--Their Wild
State.--Unable to land.--Arrival at an uninhabited Bay on the Island
of Lakahia.--Visit from some of the Chiefs.
Having filled up our water-casks, and put the rigging in order, we
left our anchorage off Wadia on the morning of the 22nd of April, and
continued our voyage towards New Guinea. Owing to calms we were unable
to advance far during the day, but we afterwards were favoured by a
steady breeze, which soon carried us out of view of the Arru Islands.
Bartholomeus River, (on the south coast of New Guinea), being the point
to be first visited, we shaped our course for the south-west extreme
of that great island. The winds and weather we experienced during
the passage, were very unsteady, the former being generally from the
northern quarter. As soon as we passed the Arru Islands, the pilots
stated to me that they were unacquainted with the navigation beyond,
and were even afraid to proceed any farther. The traders from Ceram,
and the islands to the westward, do not penetrate beyond the Arrus.
A number of birds usually came on board the brig towards evening, to
roost, most of which appeared to me to be land-birds. The colours of
some were very beautiful, and in many we could trace a resemblance to
our small ducks, magpies and larks.
When to the north-east of the Arru Islands we obtained soundings, for
the first time, on a corally bottom; but as we stood to the south-west
the depth gradually decreased, the bottom changing from coral to sand,
and from sand to soft mud. We encountered daily an immense number of
large Noord-kapers (a species of whale), which collected around the
brig, and on two occasions one of these sea-monsters passed under her
bottom, grazing the keel, and shaking the entire vessel.
At noon, on the 26th, we passed over a small patch of hard sand, on
which we had only nine fathoms, the depth around being nineteen and
twenty fathoms mud. This, which was named Kolff Bank, was found to lie
in latitude 7 deg. south, longitude 136 deg. 4 min. east.[45]
On the night of the 27th, while steering to the south-south-east, the
depth gradually decreased, but the bottom still continued muddy. This
made me suspect that we were approaching False Cape, (or Cape Valsche),
the south-west extreme of New Guinea. On steering south the depth
increased to twenty-six fathoms, but after hauling up north-east and
east-north-east we had only five and six fathoms, which, coupled with
a swell from the south and south-east, led me to conclude that we had
passed the Cape. In the evening, when the atmosphere cleared up, we
saw the land to the northward, and soon brought up to await the day.
During the night we experienced north-east winds, with heavy rain, and
a current of six miles from the east-south-east. Rise and fall between
seven and eight feet.
As opportunity offered, we stood in and out from the shore--never
being able to approach nearer than eight miles, the depth at that
distance being only three fathoms, but further to seaward it increased
very rapidly, the first cast of the lead, when standing off the edge of
the bank, giving five fathoms. The land was everywhere low, and covered
with large trees. I endeavoured as much as possible to approach the
land, either with the brig or with the boats, but was always prevented
by the mud-bank. Between the Cape and St. Bartholomeus River, we saw no
opening that would admit our entrance.
Having arrived off the mouth of the St. Bartholomeus River, which
is easily distinguished, as the points forming the entrance are a
considerable distance apart, the unfavourable state of the weather,
coupled with an increasing swell raised by the strong south-east wind,
determined me to return towards False Cape; being the more inclined to
do so, from the brig, which was anchored nine miles from the shore,
rolling heavily, from being forced by the tide to lie across the swell,
and having already carried away several of the shrouds of the lower
rigging.
The large islands in the Indian Archipelago, generally, have a
considerable influence on the wind, causing land and sea breezes;
but here it was not the case. This circumstance was injurious to
the objects of the voyage, as we were unable to contend against the
strength of the south-east monsoon, being thus prevented from passing
farther to the eastward. To have fully examined and laid down this
part of the coast would have required more time than we could bestow
upon it. We ascertained the south extreme of the land to lie in
latitude 8 deg. 25 min. south, while the longitude of the mouth of St.
Bartholomeus River, by chronometers and lunar observations, was found
to be 139 deg. 2 min. 25 sec. east of Greenwich. I have laid down the
trending of the land in the accompanying chart as accurately as I
could, and am confident of the correctness of the positions assigned to
the principal points.
On the 3rd of May we stood back to the westward, and passed round False
Cape without having any opportunity of landing, although, being now on
a weather shore, we were able to employ the boats with more safety.
An immense number of large and small sharks always attended the brig,
many of which were caught by the ship's company. On the 7th, while
the boats were rowing as usual along the mud-bank, smoke was seen to
arise from the shore, and on nearing the spot a number of people were
seen climbing up into the trees, who fled into the forest as the boats
approached. We were here again disappointed, for the low marshy land
was fronted by an extensive mud-bank, which forbade our approach. This
bank was covered with crocodiles, which took flight on seeing the boats.
We continued running along shore until the 8th, when we entered a wide
channel, carrying a depth of six and seven fathoms close into the south
shore, while the land on the opposite side was scarcely visible. We
anchored in seven fathoms within the entrance, and the same night I
left the brig in the boats, accompanied by the surgeon, the clerk, and
the interpreters, for the purpose of ascending the river. We passed up
along the south shore, which was still low, marshy, and well-wooded,
and having ascended about twenty-eight miles we turned back towards
the brig, as I judged it inadvisable to proceed further, the continued
rain being likely to give rise to sickness among the boats' crews.
The breadth of the river throughout was about five miles, the depth
being about eight fathoms in mid-channel, and three fathoms within
half a cable's length from the shore. The tides were very regular,
the ebb appearing to be rather the stronger. Rise and fall ten feet.
The water abounded with fish, and the shores were covered with birds
bearing much resemblance to geese, white ducks, snipes, &c. No natives
were seen during the excursion, nor were any traces of them seen, with
the exception of two old canoes, formed of hollowed trees, which were
half buried in the mud. The tameness of the birds would lead to the
conclusion that they were but little acquainted with man. Only one of
the numerous small creeks we met with produced fresh water, and this
was sixteen miles from the sea. From the creek to the sea, the shore
was inaccessible on account of the mud-bank which fronted it.
This previously unknown river received the name of Dourga River. The
mouth was found to lie in lat. 7 deg. 12 min. south, long. 138 deg. 44
min. east.[46]
Having arrived on board on the 12th, we weighed and stood
west-north-west, north-west, and north, along the edge of the mud-bank;
the water was yellow and muddy, the shadows of the clouds thrown upon
it giving it the appearance of being full of reefs and banks. The
coast, which we could not approach nearer than from ten to twelve
miles, formed several bays hereabouts.
On the 13th, being between the parallels of 6 deg. and 6 deg. 30 min.
south, we were enabled to near the land, and seeing smoke arise to the
northward of us we stood towards it, and shortly perceived a number of
small houses on the sandy beach, off which we came to anchor in three
fathoms, about four miles distant from the shore. A number of men were
running to and fro on the beach, and I lowered one of the boats down
for the purpose of communicating with them. Several small prahus,
containing seven or eight men each, now came towards the vessel, and
having approached within musket-shot, turned back towards the shore.
With a view to give them confidence I sent the crew down below, and
caused the pilots and interpreters to call out to them; but their
answers were unintelligible. Seeing that they were afraid to come on
board, I sent one of the interpreters with six native seamen in the
boat, unarmed, with a view to conciliate them by presents of spirits,
tobacco, &c., which were shown to them, and then launched towards
them on a plank. Our endeavours, however, were unsuccessful; for they
were as much afraid of the boat as of the brig, and retreated on its
approach. I therefore called the boat on board again, on which the
natives remained quiet for some time, until the number of their prahus
were increased to twelve, when they suddenly rowed towards the brig
with a loud shout, stopping, however, when still at a little distance.
I again showed them the presents, and called to them in the Papuan
language, but with the same result as before. I again sent the boat
towards them, without the interpreter, being able to get near, and it
had no sooner commenced returning than the natives followed with loud
cries, taking up their bows and arrows, but stopping short when the
people in the boat ceased rowing. This mode of proceeding continued
for some time, and, at length, seeing that the natives had their bows
strung ready for attack, I fired a blank shot towards them, on which
they all threw themselves flat on their faces for a few moments, and
then paddled away for the shore with all their might.
These people appeared to be of large stature, with jet-black skins,
and curled hair. They went entirely naked, and no scarifying of the
skin, or other mode of ornamenting, was visible on their persons. In
two of the prahus I remarked several men whose skins were of a whitish
colour. They appeared to be chiefly young men, not one among them being
advanced in years. Two of the eldest-looking wore the skins of animals.
While the prahus were pulling towards shore, a man stood up in one of
them, with a thick bamboo in his hand, out of which he threw something
that appeared to me to be ashes.[47] When the boats approached them
they also threw water up in the air, and showed their teeth like
enraged dogs. My interpreter assured me that these people were so
inhuman as to devour their prisoners taken in war, which appeared
probable enough, if we may judge from the above grimaces.
The huts of these negroes, which are scattered along the beach, are low
and open on all sides, the roof being composed of palm leaves. The soil
around the village was white sand, on which many large trees grew, many
_carwarinas_ being among them. A small river ran into a bay immediately
opposite to our anchorage. On going on shore we were as unsuccessful
as on the water, in our attempts to communicate with these shy people,
as they always fled on our approach, and climbed into the trees at a
distance. To judge from the number of houses and men that we saw, the
coast hereabouts must be very populous. We saw at a distance some other
houses, which appeared to be much larger than those on the beach. Some
bones, probably those of buffaloes, were met with, but not the least
trace of agriculture, arts or civilization. I was sorry, nevertheless,
at not being able to communicate with the natives, for the next morning
I continued my voyage, it being tolerably certain that all endeavours
to make friends with them would be fruitless.
Shortly after our departure we suddenly struck soundings in two and
a half fathoms, having had from ten to fifteen fathoms immediately
before. We continued for several successive days standing along shore,
as close as we could with safety, without finding a spot in which we
could anchor within a convenient distance of the shore. During the
nights we had bad weather, the rain continually pouring down; and the
swell from the southward increasing every day.
On the 16th we saw high land for the first time, the extreme being far
in the interior, between the meridians of 137 deg. and 138 deg. east.
We remarked that several rivers here entered the sea, but so heavy a
surf prevailed everywhere that we could not approach, being repeatedly
obliged to bring up at a distance of from seven to eight miles from
the shore, owing to our coming suddenly from five to three and a half
fathoms. On the 17th, while sailing along shore, we often attempted to
stand in, but were always stopped by reefs; while at six miles off the
shore we had twenty to twenty-five fathoms. I regretted much that the
strong winds and heavy sea prevented me from examining the different
creeks which we saw, although the interpreters assured me that the
inhabitants were in a state of the utmost barbarism. On the following
day we again stood in, and obtained no bottom with the lead at a
distance of four miles off shore, the hills here running steep off into
the sea. We saw some dwellings about the meridian of 130 deg. east, but
were unable to approach them. The coast was now known to the pilot,
who assured me that he knew a spot in the neighbourhood where we might
obtain fresh water, and having stood off for the night, we endeavoured
at daylight to enter under his direction between an island and the
northern part of a deep bay. The decrease of the depth, however, soon
caused us to stand out to sea again, the pilot excusing himself by
saying, that he always entered here with prahus, and thought that there
was water enough for the brig also.
Being desirous of communicating with the people of the island, and if
possible to obtain fresh water, I again stood in towards the island,
and anchored in five fathoms west-south-west of it. We had previously
seen smoke arise from the shore, which our interpreters stated to be
a signal of welcome, which induced me, after anchoring, to send the
boat on shore with the interpreters, for the purpose of bringing some
of the natives on board the brig. In the afternoon the boat returned
with three of the chiefs, who at first appeared afraid; but after I had
given them some rice and arrack they became more at their ease. The
Raja, an aged man, danced, sang, and made a number of curious gestures.
He could not speak Malayan, but with the aid of the interpreters
we were enabled to converse in their own language. As a proof of
friendship I gave the old Raja a _kabya_ and a handkerchief for the
head, distributing presents of the same description among the others,
with a promise of more if they would come on board the next day.
I informed them, that the only object of my visit to these parts was
to offer the friendship of the Dutch Government to the natives, and
at the same time to afford protection to the traders who frequent
the neighbourhood. They shouted in praise of the Company and of the
Ceramese, especially the Raja of Kilwari; and, on the other hand,
expressed their detestation of the Chinese, the Bughis, and the
Macassars. On my enquiry whether any of the last-mentioned people were
in the habit of visiting them, they answered that they were not, but
that they gained much information concerning them from the Ceramese.[48]
I mentioned to the Raja and his friends, that I should send the boats
on shore next morning to obtain water, and that our men, as usual,
would be armed, which they must not suppose to arise from any want
of confidence. I also stated my intention of visiting their village
in person towards noon, at which they expressed much satisfaction,
and taking leave, with a hearty shake of the hand, promised that the
villagers should employ themselves in fishing, and send the greater
part of the produce on board the brig. At seven o'clock the boat
carried them ashore, after they had received a parting present of
arrack and tobacco.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 45: In the chart prepared by M. Kolff, the longitude assigned
for this bank is 136 deg. 48 min. east.--_Translator._]
[Footnote 46: This opening was also entered two years subsequently by
the Dutch corvette _Triton_ and schooner _Iris_, when it was still
supposed to be a river; but in 1835, Lieut. Kaal, of the Dutch navy,
passed through it out to sea, proving the Dourga and St. Bartholomew
Rivers to be the north-west and south-east entrances of a strait which
cuts off the south-west extreme of New Guinea, and forms an island
about one hundred miles long and sixty broad.--_Translator._]
[Footnote 47: Captain Cook, during his first voyage, touched at a
village on the south-west coast of New Guinea, whose position agrees
with this, and had an encounter with the natives, in which lives were
lost on the part of the latter. The people of the _Endeavour_ observed,
also, the singular proceeding above alluded to, and at first supposed
that the natives had fire-arms. From the remarks of M. Modera, of the
Dutch corvette _Triton_, it appears that the composition thrown out of
the bamboos consists of lime, ashes and sand, which were ejected for
the purpose of making signals to friends at a distance.--_Translator._]
[Footnote 48: This disgraceful information of the Ceramese was
influenced, probably, by their envy and jealousy of the others.]