GORAM AND THE ARRU ISLANDS.
The Keffing Islands.--Dwellings of the Chiefs.--Pass the Goram
Islands.--Description of the same.--Acquaintance of the Natives
with the Coast of New Guinea.--The Products of these Islands of
vital Importance to Banda.--Small Portion of the Trade enjoyed by
our Settlements.--Coin.--Costume of the Inhabitants.--Equipment
of Paduakan.--Snake-Eaters.--The Fishery.--Arrival of the Brig
at Wadia.--Number of trading Prahus at Dobbo.--Adjustment of
Disputes.--Christian Teachers on the Arru Islands.--Their
Poverty.--Visit Wokan.--Appointment of an Upper Orang Kaya, and other
Transactions on the Arru Islands.
The islands of Great and Little Keffing are situated close to the
south-east extreme of Ceram, to which they are joined by reefs under
water. Little Keffing is well peopled, and contains several villages
enclosed by stone walls, each village being governed by an independent
Raja. The two largest are under the command of the Major of Keffing
and Raja Kelu. The island is low, and the groups of huts, shaded
and half hidden by cocoa-nut and other fruit trees, present a very
picturesque appearance. Each village possesses a _Masidiet_ or temple,
to which several priests are attached, those from Java being held in
particularly high respect. The houses of the Rajas are always larger
than the other buildings, over the top of which they are visible to
those at a distance. A short description of the residence of the Raja
of Kilwari will convey to the reader an idea of the sort of house in
which the chiefs dwell, as they all bear a considerable resemblance
to each other. On each side of the entrance to that of the Raja of
Kilwari, two pieces of cannon are planted, (these being tokens of the
important station of the owner), from which a salute was fired as I
entered. The house itself was raised four feet above the ground, and
was accessible by means of a stair, or rather a stout ladder. The
centre apartment was very dark, being only lighted by a hole in the
roof and the opening which served for a door-way, on each side of which
were chambers used as sleeping-rooms, store-rooms, and kitchens. The
earthen pans, plates, dishes, &c., used in preparing their meals, were
obtained from the Ki Islands. The rooms were floored with bamboos, or
with narrow strips of the wood of the Areka tree, separated an inch or
two from each other. Through these openings the offal is thrown, which
renders the ground under the house very dirty and unpleasant, as the
Mohammedans, unlike their heathen neighbours, keep no pigs to remove
it. The walls and partitions of the house were adorned with arms, such
as lelahs, muskets, large and well-tempered parangs, bows and arrows,
spears, &c., and over the floor were spread elephants' tusks, gongs,
and painted chests with gilt mouldings, which probably contained
clothes and valuables. We sat cross-legged on the floor in the centre
apartment, after the manner of the natives, by a number of whom, clad
in their best array, we were surrounded, while the host and his family
tendered us tea and sweatmeats. All the other apartments were closed,
and we were not requested to visit them, the wives of the Raja being
probably within them.
The brother of the Orang Kaya of Ghissa and another native, offered
to accompany me as interpreters, whose services I accepted, advancing
a portion of the salary that had been fixed on, to provide for the
maintenance of their families during their absence.
We left our anchorage on the 13th. When getting under weigh we found
that the stream-anchor had hooked a coral reef, and we had much
difficulty in weighing it. The water was so extremely clear, that we
could plainly perceive the fish darting over the sandy patches at the
bottom, although the depth was from ten to fifteen fathoms. Our course
lay to the east-south-east, and we pursued our voyage with an unsteady
westerly wind, which soon carried us into the vicinity of the Goram
Islands.
These islands, which are three in number, and are separated from the
Ceram-Laut group by a narrow channel, are distinguished among the
natives by the names of Goram, Manovolko, and Salawatta or Salavako.
The first possesses the greatest population, and the most extensive
commerce. The villages are mostly erected on the sea-coast, on spots
near which the coral reefs afford good shelter for their vessels. The
inhabitants, who accord with the Ceramese in manners and customs, are
well acquainted with the neighbouring coasts, and willingly go on board
foreign trading vessels as pilots. The people of the different villages
often make war upon each other, and their differences are rarely
settled without the interposition of our Government. Many of their
vessels are sent to Banda, Bali and Sumbawa, as well as to the coast of
New Guinea, with the natives of which they have constant communication.
The trade with the islands to the eastward of Ceram is indispensable
to our settlement of Banda, as it is entirely supplied with sago,
oil, cocoa-nuts, stock, wood, _attap_, _siri_, and other necessaries
by them. When we can succeed in preventing the direct importation to
the islands, of calicoes and other articles from Singapore, Malacca,
and even from Manilla and Bengal, the prosperity of Amboyna and Banda
would be greatly increased by the exclusive trade they would enjoy,
particularly if a Dutch ship of war were occasionally to show herself
among the group. At present, however, our settlements participate in
the trade to a much smaller extent than foreigners.
Coin is not current in this group. Gold and silver money is willingly
received by them; but when once they get it into their hands they never
pay it away again. Copper money is entirely unknown. For the purchase
of small articles it is necessary for the stranger to have hanks of
cotton twist, which is much in demand for the manufacture of thread.
This is dyed of a red colour by the Bangkudu root,[43] which gives
the thread a firm colour, at the same time increasing its strength
and durability, and is afterwards wove into a stuff much in demand at
the Ki and Arru Islands. The colours are usually dark red with cross
stripes of blue. Large quantities of this cloth are manufactured on
the Ceram and Goram Islands, the greater portion of the thread being
obtained from Bali. The broad klewangs or hangers, manufactured on
these islands, are also much in demand throughout the Archipelago of
the Moluccas; in fact, their temper is excellent, being superior even
to those made in Java. These swords are usually from two to three
feet long, and beautifully flowered after the manner of the Damascene
blades. The inhabitants rarely employ themselves in ship-building, but
obtain their smaller prahus from the Ki Islands, and the larger ones
from Bali. I have already described these vessels, and will only now
remark the simplicity of the materials with which they are fitted out.
A paduakan has only one sail, and is steered by two rudders (one on
each quarter), which can readily be raised out of the water. The two
cables, each from thirty to fifty fathoms long, are made of twisted
rattans, and the anchors are composed of hard wood, having the flukes
a little sharpened, and a large stone fastened to the stock. A small
canoe is carried on the deck. The bottom of the vessel is covered with
a composition of lime, and the top sides are painted with a black
mixture made from burnt rattans and husks of cocoa-nuts. Some pots
of fresh water, a little salt, a quantity of sago bread, and some
fishing-hooks and lines, complete their equipments.
The Goram Islands are rather high, and extremely fertile. Rice is grown
on the main island; but the inhabitants of Manovolko and Salawatta
dare not plant it, as its cultivation is considered as an exclusive
hereditary right of the people of Goram. In the interior of the islands
many fugitives from Bali and Sumbawa reside, who are forced to pay a
slavish obedience to the old inhabitants. The wants of these people are
few, and are supplied by the forests, which afford plenty of hogs and
other wild animals; even snakes, as I was informed, being esteemed a
delicacy among them.
Fishing is but little attended to here, fowls and goats, which here
abound, being preferred as food. The Papuan slaves fish with lines, but
_seroos_, or stake-traps, with which fish are caught on the banks,
are here rarely used. The women often employ themselves in catching
crabs in the shallow water, adopting rather a singular mode. They
place baskets over each foot, and walking over the mud-banks they are
enabled to feel the crabs when they tread upon them, which they secure
by thrusting a sharp-pointed stick into them through the basket. The
mode of line-fishing adopted in the Archipelago is very simple. The
lines are from sixty to one hundred fathoms long, having at the end a
piece of copper wire, four or five fathoms in length, to which the hook
is fastened. The bait consists of hen's feathers, which are tied fast
to the hook, and when in the water have the appearance of small fish.
There are several other modes adopted, which it will be unnecessary to
explain at length.
We saw no land until the 16th, when we made the Arru Islands, and
sailing close along the west coast of Wassia, hauled in, and came to an
anchor in the strait between that island and Wadia. The Orang Kaya of
Wadia immediately came on board, and in the afternoon I went on shore
to return his visit. Hoping to gain some information at Dobbo about the
coast of New Guinea, and wishing also to know how they got on there, I
proceeded there the same night with the armed boats. I there met with
the Orang Kaya of Wama, who informed me of the death of the head chief
of Wokan, which took place about a month previous, and of his office
being filled by his brother, who arrived among us during the same day.
A brig from Sourabaya, and several other vessels, lay at anchor off
the town, while thirteen paduakans from Macassar and Boni were hauled
up on the beach, the commanders of which had gone to some of the more
distant islands of the group, especially Vorkay, to purchase trepang,
mother-o'pearl-shell and tortoise-shell. Two other large paduakans lay
at anchor behind Maykor, the trade being conducted in a very regular
manner. Several differences had, however, occurred, the most important
of which were the following.
The Nakhoda, or commander of a jonko from Ghissa, complained to me
that the Raja of Amma, a village situated on the Goram Islands, having
come here to trade, had forbidden him (the Nakhoda) from disposing of
his goods, with a view to obtain a better price than his own; the Raja
being enabled to enforce his prohibition, by the aid of two armed
prahus. As no reason existed for the trade being open to one and not
to another, it became necessary for me to make known to the people of
Goram my displeasure at such arbitrary proceedings. The Raja, however,
alarmed at our arrival, had departed no one knew whither, his prahu
having been seen standing out to sea as we came in. The Orang Kaya of
Wama remarked to me, that the Raja was well aware that his conduct
would not bear the test of examination.
A second affair was as follows:--A juro-batu, or pilot (literally,
watcher for rocks), named Seyid-Ed-Din, complained to me that the
Nakhoda of a prahu from Amboyna had turned him ashore, so that he was
now without the means of subsistence. The Nakhoda had gone to the
back part of the group; but I soon learned that the juro-batu was not
entirely free from blame, and was thus prevented from coming to a
decision on the case, being only able to order the commanding officer
of the prahu to take the man back to Amboyna, as it was improper that
any of the crew should be put on shore in a foreign place.
In the year 1824, a prahu belonging to Kilwari, while on her voyage
from New Guinea to the Ki Islands, put into Wadia, having received
damage at sea from bad weather, and being in want of fresh water. The
Orang Kaya of Wadia wished to purchase the trepang which formed part of
her cargo, but the parties not being able to come to terms, the crew
of the prahu made preparations to depart. This, however, was prevented
by the Orang Kaya, who endeavoured to decoy the strangers into the
river, but being unable to succeed he boarded the vessel with several
prahus, and plundered her of some pieces of cloth, some gunpowder, and
other trifles. The Ceramese, to avoid further violence, fled the same
night, and continued their voyage to the Ki Islands. It accidentally
happened, that several of those who formed the crew of the prahu, some
of whom were relatives of my interpreter for New Guinea, were now in
a vessel at Dobbo, and came to me to request that I would obtain the
restitution of the goods which had been taken from them. The chiefs
of the different villages were present at the time, the Orang Kaya
of Wadia being among them. He did not deny the circumstance, but, as
usually occurs, laid all the blame on the villagers. I requested the
proprietors of the plundered goods to return with me to Wadia, where
I obtained the property for them, but forgave, for this time, the
villagers, threatening them with severe punishment should they ever
transgress in like manner again.
The Christian teachers of Wakan, Wama and Maykor, stated to me, that
they could remain no longer on the islands, as they were unable to
obtain even sufficient provisions for their maintenance. On examination
I found that these useful men received nothing whatever from the
villagers, so that I could not be surprised at their desire to return
to Amboyna, especially those of Wama and Maykor. I took the opportunity
of a general meeting of chiefs on the Island Wokan, to mention the
subject to those who professed Christianity. These did not deny that
the teachers had been left to their own resources; but stated in
excuse, that as M. Bik had promised the teachers a monthly salary of
ten rupees, they must have sufficient to subsist upon. I observed to
them the injustice of their conduct, on which they begged the teachers
to remain, and promised to provide for their maintenance.
Some of the teachers appeared to me as not being on the most friendly
footing with the natives, which, I believe, was owing greatly to their
presuming too much on the protection of the Government, and wishing
to be _masters_ in reality. I therefore remonstrated with them on the
impropriety of attempts at rule, and sent the teacher of Maykor back
again to his home, at the same time exhorting them to perform their
duties better for the future than they had hitherto, and give the
natives clearer ideas of Christianity. The dispositions of the Arru
Islanders are excellent, and it is truly to be regretted that their
instruction in the tenets of our religion has hitherto been so slight.
Were a missionary to be sent among them, his labours would be attended
with very good results. The distribution of some Malayan Bibles, hymn
books, and tracts, which I had received from M. Kam, gave much delight
to the Christian natives.
At the earnest request of the three teachers, I gave to each twenty
rupees (£1. 15_s._), together with some rice and other provisions. One
of the three whom I brought with me from Amboyna, was installed at
Duryella.
On the 19th of April we departed in the boats for Wokan. The Orang
Kaya of Wadia, who had remained with me up to this time, returned to
his village to await my arrival there. On the following morning the
chiefs and elders of the Christians assembled, when Zadrak Hermans
was appointed as head chief of Wokan, with the usual ceremonies,
and received a golden-knobbed baton, together with the certificate
of appointment which had been provided for his father, to which an
appendix was attached, naming him his successor. I also delivered
certificates to the chiefs of Wama and Maykor, with which I had been
furnished by the Government. The ceremonies were concluded with an
appropriate address, and a salute of lelah shots. The people here are
not less desirous than those of most other islands of this Archipelago,
to have a Dutch garrison among them.
At noon I returned on board, accompanied by five vessels, containing
a number of my native friends, whom I entertained on board at dinner,
after which they returned home with many expressions of thanks for the
kind proofs of remembrance on the part of the Government.
On the 21st I presented the Orang Kaya of Wadia with an act of
appointment, after which I arranged the affair of piracy, of which I
have previously made mention. During our stay among the islands, the
weather had been continually calm and rainy. I was disappointed in my
expectations of receiving important information, concerning the coasts
of New Guinea. When the people heard that I intended to go there, they
expressed much satisfaction, hoping that they would be benefitted by
the results of the expedition. The Ceramese I met with here, who had
lately left the coast of New Guinea, informed me that the Papuas to the
northward of the Arru Islands had assured them, that _Orang Pati_, or
white people, dwelt further to the south-eastward of them.[44]
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 43: Morinda citrifolia. Lin.--_Translator._]
[Footnote 44: It is possible that our colony of New South Wales was
here alluded to. The natives of the islands in Torres Straits, from
their frequent intercourse with ships from Sydney, must be well aware
of the existence of the colony, and might have communicated it to the
Papuas of the south part of New Guinea, with whom they maintain a
constant intercourse.--_Translator._]