BABA.
Voyage towards Banda.--Remarks on the Islands Sermatta, Teon and
Nila.--Arrival at Banda.--Humanity of an Orang-Kaya.--Description of
the Island Baba.--Great Fear and Distrust of the Inhabitants.--Their
Manners and Customs.--The Island Wetang.--Cause of the Distrust of
the Natives.--Murderous and plundering Propensities of the People of
Aluta.--Disturbances between the Inhabitants of Tepan and Aluta.
From the hospitable island of Luan we steered our course for Banda.
Nothing worthy of remark occurred during the voyage; but I will take
this opportunity of making a few remarks on some islands which lay near
our route, and which, many years past, were in connection with our
Government.
The island Sermatta is composed of a high ridge of hills, extending
east and west, the sides of which run steep off into the sea. As
the island is thinly inhabited, and at the same time affords no
shelter to shipping, it is of little importance to strangers. The
inhabitants are under subjection to the people of Luan, to which island
they bring rice, edible roots, Indian corn and cattle, receiving in
exchange cloth, and other necessary articles. During my stay at Luan
I endeavoured, without success, to induce some of these islanders to
come with me; they appeared to be very shy and fearful, which is not
surprising when it is taken into consideration that their island is
never visited by trading vessels, while the people themselves do not
extend their voyages beyond Luan.
Teon, to the east-north-east of Damma, is hilly, and of moderate
height. It is uninhabited, and the channel between it and Nila is
rendered very unsafe by a number of reefs, which require the greatest
precaution on the part of the navigator, should he attempt to pass
through it.
The island Nila consists of a high round hill, on the north side of
which there is anchorage for small vessels. It is inhabited by a few
heathens, who, at the changing of the monsoons, visit Banda to dispose
of their hogs, fowls and cocoa-nuts, which appear to form the sole
products of the island.
On the 22nd of July we anchored in the Roads of Banda, where we
received on board provisions and water, and were provided with a fresh
supply of goods as presents to the native chiefs. During our stay we
experienced some heavy squalls from off the island of Great Banda, with
very rainy weather.
At the request of the Resident, M. Camphuyzen, I took with me two
English seamen, named William Both and Joseph Atkins. These men had
belonged to the English brig _Syren_, Captain William Johns, which had
been wrecked on the coast of New Guinea, where the crew fell into the
hands of the barbarous inhabitants. They were sold and resold among
the natives of the neighbouring islands, until at length these two men
reached the island Kower, where the Orang Kaya of Kisser[19] purchased
them and brought them to Banda. For this humane act the Resident, in
the name of the Government, presented the chief with a gold medal.
At noon, on the 28th of July, we left the Roads of Banda, and had again
to struggle against heavy squalls, with a high sea from the south-east.
I was therefore obliged to stand to the southward towards the island
Baba, and as we stood on this course the swell gradually decreased, and
the weather became more favourable. We had the current in our favour
when we arrived among the islands to the southward of Banda, so that we
experienced no difficulty in working up to windward. The careful manner
in which it is necessary to proceed, however, caused us much delay. In
the charts now existing, most of the islands are either placed wrong,
or are entirely left out, while at the same time our pilots were not
perfectly acquainted with the channels.
Proceeding thus cautiously, we did not reach Baba until the 4th of
August. This island, which is hilly and tolerably high, is surrounded
by several smaller islets, the most important of which are Wetang to
the east, and Dain to the north. The best anchorage near Baba during
the east monsoon, is on the west side of the island off the village of
Tepa, and in steering towards this we ran close along the north shore
of Wetang, and then stood over to Baba, when we worked up close under
the land to the anchorage, and brought up in fifteen fathoms, with very
good holding ground. Care is necessary in working up to the anchorage
during this monsoon, as heavy squalls sometimes come off the land.
When the westerly winds prevail, it is said that the most secure roads
are under the coast of Wetang; but as I was not here at that period, I
had no opportunity of personally ascertaining the fact.
While we were standing under easy sail towards the roads, small prahus
with outriggers, containing three or four men each, occasionally rowed
towards us, the people hailing us from a distance to inquire who we
were, and whether we intended to do them harm. Our endeavours to induce
them to come on board were fruitless; nor did I, indeed, succeed in
this until after the interpreters had been among them, and set their
fears at rest. On arriving at the village I found that the inhabitants
had totally deserted it, and had even taken their household goods with
them. Not a woman nor a child was to be seen, but the men, with their
arms in their hands, were perceived running through the bush at a
distance.
The natives who first came on board were very timorous, and either
through fear or ignorance could scarcely make themselves understood
in Malay.[20] After I had made them a few presents, and acquainted
them with the object of my visit, they went on shore, impressed with
greater confidence in our intentions towards them, while the fears
of those on shore were at the same time quieted by the interpreters.
They returned on board soon afterwards, accompanied by the chiefs of
the village and two of the oldest inhabitants, who brought with them
one of the silver-knobbed batons, which were formerly distributed by
the East India Company. With much confusion of manner they informed us
that they had never seen an European during their lives, but that their
forefathers had often spoken in high terms of the Dutch, and stated
that they had been of old subjected to their East India Company. They
moreover informed us, that they had at all times looked forward with
the greatest eagerness to the period when their old friendship and
alliance with our Government would be renewed.
When these chiefs left the brig, I sent the interpreters on shore
with them, provided with arrack and tobacco to distribute among
the islanders, and to do all in their power towards quieting their
fears. At noon I followed them in person, and found that the women
and children had not yet returned to their houses, but ere long a
number of them assembled around us. The people made free use of the
arrack and tobacco, and gradually laid aside their fears, when I made
them acquainted with the object of my visit, and informed them that
I desired nothing from them, but came here at the command of our
Government to do all in my power towards promoting their interests. I
also testified my astonishment at the timidity and want of confidence
they had displayed, and admonished them to cause their wives and
families to return to their homes, as otherwise I should be unable to
view them as friends.
Throughout the Molucca Islands the absence of the women and children
from the villages may always be held as a convincing proof of bad
intentions on the part of the natives. Violence on their part
generally, however, arises more from their ignorance, fear, and
consequent want of confidence, than from decided malevolence.
Experience has already often proved to me that whenever affairs stand
thus with the natives, the higher the tone of command with which
you address them, the more you will inspire them with respect. I
therefore made no difficulty of going ashore among them, unarmed and
unaccompanied, and when I found that my words began to make some
impression on them, I placed before their eyes the impropriety of
their want of confidence, and soon had the satisfaction to see them
unanimously lay aside their weapons, and behave with greater freedom.
In the evening I again went on shore, accompanied by several of the
gentlemen, when I found that the women and children had returned to
the village, and I never afterwards saw the least signs of distrust
among them; indeed, their familiarity soon went so far that I was often
obliged to spread the boarding nettings, when I did not wish to have
the brig full of curious visitors.
The population of Baba is divided into two portions, one inhabiting
the side of the island on which we lay, and the other taking up
its residence on the south-east side, the interior being entirely
unpeopled. These two parties have been long in a state of war, making
frequent plundering excursions against each other, the chief object
of these being the acquirement of captives, who are either kept as
slaves by the conqueror, or are sold to the traders who visit the
island. The population is not very great, but the exact amount cannot
be ascertained. Each of the tribes is governed by an Orang Kaya,
elected from among the richest and oldest of the inhabitants. Tepa,
the village before which we anchored, consisting of no more than
twenty-five houses, is considered as the capital of the western tribe;
but they also have dwellings on the island Wetang, while many others
are scattered among the gardens in the vicinity.
The manners, customs, &c. of the people of Baba resemble those of the
heathen inhabitants of the islands we had already visited. Their hair
is of a reddish, flaxen colour, its natural blackness having been thus
changed by rubbing lime into the head, which process is commenced when
they are yet in their infancy.[21]
The western side of Baba is so precipitous and overgrown with forest,
that cultivation has extended but very little; the more fertile island
Wetang being selected as a more suitable spot for their plantations
of roots, Indian corn and vegetables. The neighbouring waters supply
excellent fish, abundance of which were daily caught by our seamen
with the seine. The natives, however, pay little heed to the bounty
which the sea affords. The interior of the island is overrun with wild
cattle, hogs and goats, the woods at the same time being well stocked
with feathered game. Among the last was a kind of wood pigeon, which
roosted in immense numbers in the trees, and afforded much sport in the
morning to myself and the surgeon, who was also a lover of field sports.
On the south side of Tepa I met with the remains of a stronghold, but
the natives could give me no information concerning the period of its
erection. Near the same spot we also found a fine well, enclosed by
masonry, which, although now in a state of disrepair, bore evident
marks of having been constructed in a superior manner. The water
it contained was beautifully clear and pure, so that we took the
opportunity of filling up our empty water casks.
The natives live in a state of great poverty, but as their wants
are few they are contented. A native vessel from Banda visits them
only once or twice a year, to supply them with cotton cloth, which
is almost the only article of foreign manufacture they require. They
have, therefore, but little communication with strangers, which easily
accounts for their being far inferior in point of civilization to
the natives of the islands we had previously visited. Their vessels
consist of long prahus of from ten to twelve tons burthen, which are
employed in visiting the neighbouring islands; and of small canoes,
which are used for shorter voyages. Their arms are bows, arrows, iron
javelins, and bamboo spears, while they possess also a few muskets,
which they preserve with great care, but evidently intend more for
show than use, as many are unprovided with locks. The women perform
the heaviest portion of the labour, the industry of the men being only
displayed in gathering cocoa-nuts, making palm wine, and repairing
their weapons, without which they never go abroad. I never went on a
shooting excursion into the interior without meeting with parties of
armed men, going to, or returning from, their plantations. Nearly every
man was accompanied by a dog, who, by his barking, gives his master
warning of the approach of a stranger. On one occasion, early in the
morning, I encountered in the forest a couple who afforded me some
amusement. The man, who was naked, with the exception of a cloth round
the loins, carried a large bow, a bundle of arrows with broad points
of iron, a klewang or hanger by his side, and was preceded by his dog,
while his wife, clad as lightly as her husband, brought up the rear,
bearing a musket and a large basket of yams on her shoulders. They
tarried awhile with me to partake of some arrack and tobacco which I
offered them, and as I always had an interpreter with me, I enquired
whither they were going, and why so heavily armed? He informed me that
they were bound for their plantations, and that it was necessary to
go well armed, as they must show a good front against neighbours, who
often fell upon them and robbed them of their wives; while at the same
time they were liable to attacks from the wild beasts. The musket was
unloaded, and had no lock; but it was perhaps as serviceable as if it
had one, for he was afraid to fire off my fowling piece. They make up,
however, for this deficiency by their skill in using the bow and arrow,
with which I have frequently seen them strike a bird on a tree at a
distance of fifty or sixty paces.
I frequently held communications with the chiefs, on which occasions
I was always surrounded by the entire population, and had many
opportunities of witnessing the docility of these islanders, and how
open they are to conviction. They would willingly place themselves
under the control of a mild government, and with such an advantage
I feel convinced that they would even lay aside their barbarous
customs, and adopt a more quiet, orderly and industrious mode of
life. If traders now and then suffer wrong at their hands, I believe
that, in most cases, their own conduct has been the cause of it;
since it has often come under my notice that the Amboynese and Banda
traders frequently take advantage of their superior knowledge and
experience, to lord it over the islanders, and cheat them of their
goods, the simplicity of the latter rendering them an easy prey. If
it were known how often strangers leave them without fulfilling their
commercial engagements, the artless natives would readily be excused
for occasionally taking a wild justice for their wrongs, and viewing
all strangers with suspicion.
When among the islands which we visited during the previous part of
the voyage, I had heard that an English vessel had been cut off by the
natives of Baba, and it was not without the greatest difficulty that I
succeeded in gaining some of the particulars concerning it from a few
of the natives. It appeared that some months previous to my visit, an
English trading brig, manned with ten European seamen, which had been
bartering muskets and ammunition for tortoise-shell and cattle among
the islands to the eastward of Timor, anchored off Aluta, the capital
of the tribe inhabiting the east side of Baba, and the commander,
supposing the people to be as trustworthy as those of the other
islands, sent half his crew ashore in the boat to obtain water, at a
time when a large number of natives were on board the brig carrying on
a trade. While the boat was away, the natives, for some unknown reason,
attacked the commander and the four remaining seamen, and, although
armed only with their knives, succeeded in killing them, which fate
also befel the boat's crew on their return on board. The brig was then
run on shore, plundered, and burnt. The greater part of her cargo,
consisting of arms, tortoise-shell and cattle, together with her sails
and rigging, which had been divided among the captors, were still in
their possession.[22]
A trading prahu from Banda, which afterwards visited Aluta, was also
cut off by the natives, and all her crew murdered with the exception of
two individuals, one of whom was subsequently taken away by another
trading prahu, while the other still remained on the island, having
married the daughter of one of the chiefs; from which there is reason
for supposing that he was accessary to the deed.
After the people of Tepa had related to me these particulars, many of
them came forward and kissed my hands, requesting me not to consider
them as accomplices in the crime, as they never wished to have any
communication with the people of the back part of the island. They
declared that nothing would please them more than that I should go to
Aluta, and assist them in chastising its treacherous inhabitants.
I endeavoured, by the promise of presents, and of entire forgiveness
to the people of the east coast, to induce the chiefs of Tepa to visit
Aluta, and bring back with them one of the head men of the place; but
in this I was unsuccessful. To my great regret, therefore, I was unable
to do any thing in the affair; for there was no path by which I could
reach Aluta overland, and it would have been unadviseable, at this
period of the year, to have proceeded there with the brig, while the
length of the distance, and the insufficiency of their force in case
of disturbance, prevented our sending the boats. The chiefs frequently
promised me that they would send a prahu there, to inform the people
of the desire I had to see them make up their differences, and in
the faith of this promise, from which nothing resulted, I delayed my
departure from the island several days.
On the 8th, having called together the chiefs, I went on shore under
an escort of twenty marines, and with the accustomed ceremonies,
to read to them the communications sent to them by our Government,
which I explained to them in the fullest manner. All appeared to be
much moved at the friendly intentions and offers of assistance and
protection expressed in the letter, and stated that nothing could
better agree with their wishes than that they should be placed under
the rule of the Dutch Government, to whom they would become faithful
subjects. They assured me that they all felt convinced that this was
the only course that could lead to their future prosperity, while they
were at the same time aware, that in point of civilization they were
inferior to many of their neighbours, which they themselves ascribed
to the anarchy which had prevailed among them during a long series of
years, and to the disappearance of the Christian religion from among
them, through the decease of those who had professed it. They also
requested me, in the most earnest manner, to appoint some clever and
experienced men from among them, to the chieftainship, and also to send
them an Amboynese missionary or teacher, to instruct them in the tenets
of Christianity, expressing deep regret at their having relapsed to
paganism and wickedness, from the state of Christian harmony in which
their forefathers had passed their lives.
In accordance with the general wishes of the people, I appointed a
certain _Tompatti Paulus_ as the Upper Orang-kaya of the west coast
of Baba, and presented him with a silver-knobbed baton, and a large
Dutch flag. After this I drew up provisional acts of appointment for
the minor chiefs of villages. These solemnities, at which the entire
population of Tepa were present, were held in the middle of the
village, the audience sitting on benches and mats, those appropriated
to the chief individuals being sheltered by an awning of prahus'
sails. After the breaking up of these meetings, they usually offered
up sacrifices of cattle to their idols, and passed the entire night
carousing.
At this last meeting they declared that they would commence the
proposed voyage to the back of the island the same night, and I
promised to delay my departure until their return; but either from
fear, or from some reason which I could not discover, they again
disappointed me. On the following morning, however, four _Orang Baays_,
or large canoes, made their appearance, manned with from thirty to
forty men each, and literally crammed full of weapons. After rowing
round the brig several times, firing shots occasionally from such of
their muskets as were in a serviceable state, they came alongside with
a loud shout, when the Upper Orang-kaya, and several other chiefs, came
on board, and, as subjects to the Netherlands' Government, offered
their vessels for our use, to make a voyage to the back of the island.
I expressed my surprise at this extraordinary equipment, and thanking
them for the readiness they had shown, informed them that I always
wished, in the first instance, to take kind and humane measures for
bringing offenders back to their duty, and had no object in resorting
to hostilities against their fellow islanders. As I could afford
to spend no more time on the island, and the state of the monsoon
prevented me from going with the brig to the back of the island, I
determined to leave the affair to the decision of the Government.
I was the more necessitated to leave the differences between these
tribes unsettled, from it being evident that an expedition to and from
Aluta could not be performed in less than ten days. I exhorted them,
in the mean time, to become reconciled to their neighbours as soon as
possible; to inform them of the kindness and good intentions of our
Government; and to prevail upon them to go to Banda to ask forgiveness
for the offences they had committed, failing which they would assuredly
be punished for their neglect.
While we lay off Tepa a number of canoes came daily alongside, loaded
with fowls, hogs, fruit and vegetables, to sell to the ship's company.
A fowl was given for an empty bottle; two or three for a common pocket
knife; while the price of a hog of from twelve to fifteen pound weight,
was a small quantity of calico, or a piece of coarse red chintz
lining-stuff, of the value of a couple of guilders (3_s._ 4_d._) As
on the adjacent islands, money is not valued by the natives, with the
exception of gold coin, which they melt down and form into ear-rings or
other ornaments. Men as well as women have often three or four holes
bored, one above the other, in their ears, in each of which they wear a
golden ornament.
Atkins, one of the English seamen we had taken on board at Banda,
died here, in consequence of the fatigues he had endured during his
captivity among the natives. When the people of Baba heard of his
decease, they immediately offered to provide a coffin, and to bring him
on shore; but for particular reasons, among which was a fear that they
might disinter the body after our departure, I preferred committing it
to the deep with the usual ceremony.
Early in the morning of the 15th of August we weighed anchor and left
the island, amid the farewells of the people, who had assembled on the
beach to witness our departure.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 19: The island of Keffing, near the east extremity of Coram,
is probably here alluded to.]
[Footnote 20: The Malay language is the _Lingua Franca_ of the entire
Indian Archipelago, but it is only generally understood in those places
which enjoy some commerce. The natives, who reside in the mountains,
and those who have no communication with strangers, speak only a
dialect of their own.]
[Footnote 21: Lime is generally used for this purpose among the natives
of these islands. It may, perhaps, be serviceable in preventing
eruptions of the skin, to which they are very subject. Whenever they
are afflicted with the headache they apply a plaster of lime to the
temples as a remedy.]
[Footnote 22: This vessel, in all probability, was either the British
colonial brig "_Lady Nelson_," or the trading schooner "_Stedcombe_,"
both of which left Melville Island in the year 1824, soon after
the formation of our settlement there, to procure stock, and were
never heard of afterwards. It will be seen in Chapter XIII. that
the other was cut off by the natives of the east side of Timor
Laut.--_Translator._]