LUAN.
Arrival at the Island Luan.--Dangerous Passage.--Our Reception by
the People.--Commerce and Fisheries.--The Christians of Luan.--Their
Customs and Dispositions.--Hospitality and Good Nature of the
Inhabitants.--Hazardous Situation on leaving the Island.
After having thus completed our duties on Lakor in as short a time as
possible, we pursued our voyage to Luan, and stood towards the reefs
which enclose that island, with the view of passing over them. Here I
had another opportunity of proving that implicit confidence was not to
be placed in the pilot, who had assured me that he was well acquainted
with the place; for, while standing towards the reefs under easy sail,
our depth suddenly decreased to four fathoms, and the anchor, which
was immediately let go, had scarcely touched the ground, when it was
found that there were only sixteen feet water under the bows. Had it
not been for our cautious mode of proceeding, the brig would assuredly
have been run upon the rocks. Fortunately the wind was favourable, and
the anchor was soon weighed again, when we stood out to sea. The boats
were sent away to look out for a channel, but as none was discovered, I
determined to stand off and on with the brig.
The island Luan, which is about fourteen miles in circumference,
being high, is visible at a considerable distance. An extensive reef,
studded with islets, surrounds it, within which there is a depth of two
fathoms, affording good anchorage to small trading vessels. The islets
to the north-east of Luan are about four miles distant from the main
island. Close outside these the reef is steep to, so that they may be
safely approached by a ship.
Luan is inhabited by from two hundred to three hundred families, who
reside in villages placed very near to each other on the north-east
side of the island, at the foot of the mountain. The adjacent islets
are not peopled, but they are occasionally visited by the inhabitants
of Luan, who have gardens on them, while they also afford a resting
place to those engaged in the trepang fishery.
After we had again got under sail, and I had clearly ascertained that
there was no possibility of our running in over the reef without
incurring the risk of sticking fast, we fired two guns, upon which
two boats put off from the shore, containing the native chiefs, who
came on board to pay their respects. I acquainted them in a few words
with the object of my visit, and promised to go on shore to transact
business on the following day, the 17th of July, when I left the brig
with M. Dielwaart, the secretary and the interpreters, in two boats
manned with European seamen, under a salvo from the guns, and other
customary ceremonies. We soon reached the shore, where we were welcomed
by a number of people of both sexes, who had assembled on the beach to
receive us, and were conducted by them into their villages, which were
only separated from each by stone walls. In the centre village, chairs,
benches and tables had been placed for our accommodation, under the
shelter of awnings composed of boats' sails. We here held a preliminary
meeting of the chiefs, according to the instructions of the Government,
and then took possession of two houses which had been prepared for our
reception, abundance of provisions being supplied us by the people, as
had been the case on the islands we had previously visited.
The inhabitants of Luan, who bear much resemblance to those of Roma,
have arrived at a tolerably high state of civilization. The greater
part take pride in calling themselves Christians; but they nevertheless
live on good terms with the heathens, who here, as elsewhere, are
considered as their subjects and inferiors. The inhabitants reside in
four villages, situated in a line close to each other, each village
having a separate chief. These are exceedingly jealous of each other,
and strangers who visit them must pay especial attention to this
particular, and carefully abstain from taking more notice of one than
of another, since opposite conduct would assuredly lead to serious
discord among these otherwise good-natured and peaceful islanders. This
circumstance rendered the distribution of the Government presents a
matter of greater difficulty than I had found it to be elsewhere.
Traders from Macassar, Amboyna and Banda, annually visit the island
to purchase tortoise-shell and trepang. This last production is here
found of a better quality than on any of the adjacent islands, and
it affords a great source of riches to the natives. The trade of the
island is carried on upon the barter system, specie being little used.
Cloth, which is in great demand, forms the chief import, so that even
European merchants might make great profit by disposing of these
articles here.
The trepang, which is so much sought for by the Chinese, and forms
one of the chief articles of their trade with these parts, is a sort
of sea-slug, of which I shall give a more full description hereafter.
The Chinese consider them as a great delicacy, and they therefore
have as great a taste for them as for the edible birds'-nests, the
last of which are sometimes sold at the rate of four thousand Spanish
dollars the _picul_ (133lbs. avoirdupoise.) When a trader arrives at
Luan for the purpose of obtaining a supply of trepang, he commences by
advancing goods to the natives, in proportions suited to the quantity
he requires. The people then collect, and go out in search of the slug,
which is found in the greatest abundance on the reefs, in from eight
to ten feet water. When the tide is high they are taken by means of a
fork or harpoon, but at low water they are easily caught by the hand.
The fishery, which is only continued until a sufficient quantity has
been obtained to supply the trader, rarely lasts more than three or
four days, and it can only be followed with good success during the
change of the monsoon. They never keep a stock in hand; and should
no traders arrive among them during the year, the fishery is totally
neglected. They have, indeed, but few inducements to carry it on with
vigour, for a single fishing excursion will supply their wants. It is
surprising that the people of the neighbouring islands do not come here
occasionally to partake of the abundance of trepang which the reefs
afford; for, although the people of Luan claim the exclusive privilege
of fishing in the surrounding waters, they take little trouble in
preserving it. The traders, whose capital consists of cloth, iron
ware, gongs, &c., obtain the trepang at the rate of from twenty to
twenty-five guilders the _picul_, and therefore make an enormous profit
on disposing of it to the Chinese. Hogs and goats also form an article
of export from Luan. The first, especially, are fattened without much
difficulty or expense, on the shells of young cocoa-nuts and on the
pith of the sago-tree.
Fowls and ducks are in such abundance on the island, that the natives
care little about taking the fish which swarm in the adjacent waters.
Their habitations, like those of their neighbours, are very small,
rarely exceeding twenty feet in length and ten in breadth. The roofs
are thatched with the leaves of the palm-tree, which is found to resist
the rays of the sun better than tiles or slates, while at the same
time it affords perfect shelter from the rains which fall almost daily
during the west monsoon. The floor of the house is raised four or five
feet from the ground on wooden piles; and the interior, which contains
only a few benches, and a stone fire-place for cooking their simple
meals, is lighted by holes in the walls and roof, and by two doors, one
at each end of the house, which are left open night and day.
Although among the inhabitants there are many who call themselves
Christians, there is no building exclusively appropriated to worship,
divine service being usually performed in one of the largest of the
houses. Very few of them can read or write, and their knowledge of
our religion consists only in doctrines that have been handed down
from father to son. During our stay M. Kam baptized more than one
hundred and fifty of these islanders, and united several couples in
matrimony. It was laughable to see the men and women, young and old,
taking my seamen by the arm, and dragging them to the spot where the
religious ceremonies were being performed, that they might become their
godfathers. The sailors, who, for the most part, were lively young
men, put rather a long face on the matter; but I must say it to their
praise, that they behaved with the greatest respectability, and never
forgot themselves for a moment. As my men always conducted themselves
well, I willingly allowed them recreation on shore; and experience
has proved to me that those who have the least indulgence of this
description, are always the most difficult to manage.
During the 17th, 18th, and 19th of July, I was constantly employed
in arranging the affairs of the people of Luan, and in renewing the
friendship which formerly existed between them and ourselves. In the
name of the Government I distributed the presents, confirmed the chiefs
in their governments with the customary solemnities, and drew up their
certificates of appointment. Many of the batons presented to former
chiefs by the old East India Company, were still in the possession of
the natives, together with their certificates, the latest of which bore
the date of 1777, so that in all probability the island had not been
visited by a Dutchman for a period of nearly fifty years.
It appeared to me to be very remarkable, that they stedfastly refused
to permit my appointing any one as their head chief. In spite of all my
arguments in favour of such an appointment, they continued obstinate,
and it would not have been possible for me to succeed, unless I had
resorted to absolute command. They assured me that up to this time they
had always lived in peace and unity under the separate government of
their various chiefs, and I therefore allowed them to have their own
way, which appeared to give universal satisfaction. I subsequently
endeavoured to induce them to carry their goods for sale to Amboyna
or Banda, and gave them other advice which had for its object the
increase of their prosperity; and I had the satisfaction of perceiving
that they duly appreciated it. Men and women showed a confidence
in, and friendship towards, our Government, which I should find it
difficult to describe in appropriate terms. At the general meetings
some of them often came forward, and, kissing my hand, entreated that
the Government would hereafter bear them in remembrance, and take an
active part in the management of their affairs. I promised them that
I would faithfully inform our colonial rulers of their numerous good
qualities, and would at the same time request that a teacher should be
sent to them to instruct their children in useful knowledge, and in the
observances of the Christian faith.
The day before my departure from the island, the armed seamen were
sent on board, to the great regret of the people, who earnestly
requested me to stay a few days longer. Their farewells to our seamen
were truly affecting; and those only who are acquainted with the warm
dispositions of these people, can conceive how strong a friendship had
grown up between them and us in so short a time. When, at length, on
the afternoon of the 19th of July, I prepared to return on board, I
was accompanied by at least seven-eighths of the people. Amid repeated
good wishes they conducted us to our boats, showing us every attention
in their power. They carried us into the boats on litters, and I was
here again detained some time by the fair islanders, young and old, who
crowded around me to take leave.
The proofs of friendship, confidence and regard, which all my fellow
voyagers, as well as myself, experienced from the people of Luan, were
greater than any we had met with elsewhere. The continued kindness of
these islanders was the more striking, from its bearing undeniable
marks of sincerity; indeed, it perfectly accorded with their usual
conduct, for I never met with more harmony, contentment and toleration,
more readiness to afford mutual assistance, more domestic peace and
happiness, nor more humanity and hospitality, than among the simple
inhabitants of Luan.
On the day of my departure a strong south-east wind arose and created
a turbulent sea, for which reason the islanders wished me to delay
my departure; but having once made up my mind to go, I entered the
boat and put off for the brig. Some _prahus_ endeavoured to accompany
me, but the sea run so high that these were forced to return; and I
continued with the boat alone. When we crossed the outside of the
reef the boat was already half full, and it was not without much
danger and difficulty that we reached the brig, by which time we were
just upon the point of sinking. The other boat, in which M. Kam was
embarked, remained on shore until the following day, when it came off,
accompanied by many of our native friends, who, in addition to the
kindness they had already shown us, brought us presents of all sorts
of fruits and refreshments which the island afforded. It was perfectly
impossible to refuse them, and I returned the compliment as well as I
could, by presenting them with various articles that I thought might be
useful to them.
On the 19th of July we stood away from the island, impressed
with strong feelings of thankfulness for the unconstrained and
straightforward kindness of its peaceable and fortunate inhabitants.
None but those who have been placed in a like situation can form a
conception of the feelings we experienced, when this happy island faded
from our view.