DAMMA.
Arrival at the Island of Damma.--Description of the Country and
Inhabitants.--Warm Springs.--Retrograde Movements of the Natives in
point of Civilization.--Their Attachment to the Religion and Manners
of the Dutch.--Productions of the Soil.--Dangerous Channel along the
Coast.--The Columba Globicera.--Wild Nutmeg Trees.--General Meeting of
the Chiefs.--Transactions of M. Kam.
During the voyage I had every reason to be satisfied with the
knowledge, experience, conduct and foresight of my pilot, and therefore
I entered with confidence the Bay of Kulewatte, on the east side of
Damma, although I could not help immediately remarking that it must be
very difficult to sail out of the Bay during the easterly monsoon. The
pilot, however, confidently assured me, that we should have a steady
land wind to carry us out, while there was no other anchoring place
near the island; I therefore brought the brig to an anchor under the
north point of a small cove lying within the great bay, the latter,
which extends about four miles into the land, with high and precipitous
shores, being very rocky, and in many parts unfathomable.[15]
Damma is high and hilly, and on the north-east extremity lies a
volcanic peak, from the crater of which smoke issues almost without
interruption. At the foot of this mountain, near the cove in which
we lay, some warm sulphureous springs gushed up through holes in the
rocks, the water of which was at so high a temperature, that some yams
which I placed in them were cooked within a comparatively short period.
Two of our ship's crew, who were so afflicted with rheumatism as to be
not only unfit for duty, but in a state of great misery, were sent by
our doctor to these springs every morning; and he assured me that the
use of the water contributed greatly to the improvement of their health.
Upon the point of the cove in which we were anchored, we perceived the
remains of a block-house and other buildings, which had been erected
under the direction of the late East India Company, but of which
nothing was now left but some heaps of rubbish; while the neighbouring
country, once fertile and well-cultivated, presented the appearance of
a neglected wilderness, traces of former industry being yet apparent
among the luxuriant vegetation. To the westward of us was a stream
of clear and pure water, from which we filled up our casks. On the
north side of this is placed the village of Selat, once flourishing
and prosperous, but now consisting of only about twenty houses. A
few Christians are still to be met with among the inhabitants, but
by far the greater portion are either heathens, or individuals once
Christians, who have returned to their former habits.
On the north side of the island lies Wilhelmus Bay, which was formerly
the seat of the Dutch Residency, the village on its shore being
considered as the capital of the island. A narrow foot-path, much
broken by the unevenness of the ground, leads through a romantic wild
valley from Selat to this bay.
At first the natives were very shy, fearful and suspicious, and they
received us, as the inhabitants of Atjieh once did an officer of the
Dutch navy, with strung bows and levelled spears, and, like the people
of Atjieh, they placed confidence in us as soon as they learned that
we were Dutch, and officers of the Government. "Orang Wolanda! Orang
Compania!" said they to one another; when they laid by their weapons,
and received us without suspicion. For a period of _thirty_ years
they had not seen a single Dutchman. Their island was seldom visited
by trading vessels, and the Christian population had almost become
extinct. Owing to a want of regular government, and of instruction
for their youth, the people had returned to their original state of
ignorance and barbarism; but nevertheless it could be perceived that
they esteemed highly every relic of the Dutch rule which they had in
their possession.
The islands which we touched at during the previous part of our voyage
are annually visited by Dutch country vessels, and our establishments
remained longer on them than on Damma. Kissa, for example, was occupied
by a civilian and a detachment of soldiers in the early part of the
rule of the present Government; this has certainly been removed a
considerable time, but it is evident that the latter island must have
a great advantage over the others, especially Damma, which, as I have
stated above, had not been visited by a single European for a period
of thirty years. We cannot, therefore, be surprised at the people of
this neglected island having retrograded in point of civilization;
for experience has always proved, that when natives, and especially
native Christians, have been left to themselves, without the advantages
of proper instruction, they have very soon returned to their former
condition. On this point our islanders had been highly unfortunate, as
their uncontrolled desires led to continued differences, and brought
all friendship and unity to an end.
The day after our arrival at Damma I departed on an excursion to
Wilhelmus Bay in the sailing-boat. We found the bay to be entirely
exposed, and with very bad anchoring ground, while in both monsoons
a heavy sea often tumbles in. A small vessel, however, may find more
secure anchorage near the mouth of a small fresh water river.
On the west side of the river we discovered the remains of some strong
masonry, from which it appeared that this must have been the site of
a stronghold. I could gain no correct information from the natives,
(who are wretched chronologists, and can rarely tell their own age),
as to the period in which this was standing, much less as to that in
which it was built. They could only tell me that the Dutch garrison
here had been very numerous, and that it had been removed on a sudden
by the Government, on account of a great mortality which had occurred.
Some aged natives also remembered that at one time Company's ships
often came here. These ruins were, probably, the remains of the fort
Wilhelmsburg or Nassau, which was built here by our old India Company,
in the year 1646, as at that time the island produced a considerable
quantity of spices. The establishment, which consisted of a factor, a
lieutenant, and seventy soldiers, was shortly afterwards withdrawn,
on account of a great mortality which existed, but subsequently a
block-house was erected for the military, as upon the other islands.
The church, houses and block-house had been built with the remains of
the fort, but even this was now in a most dilapidated condition. The
inhabitants themselves were in a state of great poverty, and without
occupation; a considerable number, indeed, had emigrated to other
islands, that they might obtain the necessaries of life by becoming
bondsmen[16] or slaves.
M. Kam, with several of the officers, had come overland, and arrived
here at the same time with ourselves. The whole of the inhabitants,
old and young, ran out to see us, and touch our clothes; and they
shouted with joy at the Company having paid them a visit. Each of us
was soon adopted as a _sobat_, or friend, by one of the natives. On the
first day it was impossible for us to get away from them for a moment;
especially after I had served out to them a _Sopi Compania_, that is, a
glass of arrack. Their joy was sincere and universal.
The village at which we had arrived, called by the natives Kaayn,
consisted of about forty houses, and was considered as being the
capital of the island, the chiefs of all the other villages assembling
here on the occasion of a general consultation. The _Kota Compania_
was situated near the sea, and like all the others we had met with,
was surrounded by a wall. Above the door of the building, on a half
decayed plank, were carved the following words:--"Ghebout 1773 Mat
Got Halp."[17] The name, which was written under it, was illegible.
In front of the gate of the inclosure was a post, four feet high,
surmounted by a square stone, on which the arms of the Dutch East India
Company were engraved. This had been cleaned and white-washed on our
arrival; and the church, which stood in the centre of the village, was
supplied with a new roof, and otherwise repaired and beautified.
The other villages which the island contains, are all small and of
little importance, and are scattered over the face of the country. As
the land is hilly and covered with rocks, cultivation is not carried on
to a very great extent; indeed, the ground scarcely yields sufficient
for the consumption of the inhabitants: but still there are numerous
fertile spots, which might be rendered productive were the inhabitants
more industrious. A few plantations of sago and cocoa-nut trees, and of
Indian corn and vegetables, were met with in the villages, but these
were the only products that I saw under cultivation. Their domestic
animals consist of goats and hogs, which they sometimes dispose of to
the trading prahus. The forests which cover the island afford materials
wherewith they construct prahus, which were formerly employed in
trading with the neighbouring islands, but since last year their little
bartering trade has been discontinued. At the time of my visit these
poor people possessed no larger vessels than canoes with outriggers,
which they employed in fishing or in carrying them from village to
village; so that it is possible that, for some time past, their voyages
have been confined solely to the coasts of their own island.
The natives do not often employ themselves in fishing, which is much to
be wondered at when it is considered they have a great taste for fish,
while abundance of an excellent quality are to be caught in the waters
which surround their island; of which, indeed, we had sufficient proof
on board the brig, where the seine afforded us a constant supply of the
most delicate fish. The indifference of the natives upon this point,
is perhaps to be attributed to the abundance of wild hogs and birds
which the island affords. Among these is found the _Notenkraker_[18]
(Columba Globicera) hovering in great numbers around the wild nutmeg
trees, of the fruit of which, by the way, they are the only consumers,
the natives having no taste for spices. With a little industry this
article might form a very valuable article of export.
We frequently made shooting excursions into the country during the
early part of the morning, and seldom returned without having shot
some game, or made some interesting discovery. Among the large trees
that clothe the hills, we found abundance of the Kanarie tree, which
produces a fruit similar to the almond, and yielding an oil which the
natives use as butter in the preparation of their simple fare. The
gardens of the inhabitants, which we occasionally visited, were not
well laid out, but still were kept in good order; a proof that with
more inducements to industry, and a better knowledge of agriculture,
they would grow many more useful productions than they do at present.
The northwestern parts of the island are more flat than the others, but
the population is very small. Two or three huts, only, may occasionally
be seen, occupied by the owners or protectors of the sago and cocoa-nut
trees.
On the morning of the 8th of July the chiefs of the different villages
assembled together, and the meeting, like those we had previously
called together on the other island, was conducted with all the
ceremony possible. The good wishes of the government were made known
to them, after which I enquired into their affairs, adjusted their
differences, and had the gratification of finding that my exertions,
though they occupied much time, were attended with the best results. I
flatter myself that our arrival on the island has been of the greatest
service to the good-natured, but uncivilized and half savage islanders;
everything, indeed, shewed that the protecting care of the government
for even its most distant subjects, would make a strong impression on
their minds. They solemnly and thankfully promised that they would
hereafter live in unity, and would punctually follow the advice which
I, in the name of the government, had given to them. Having named the
Upper Orang Kaya and the other chiefs, distributed the presents and
tokens of distinction, and provided them with a Dutch flag to hoist
before their village, I made preparations for my departure.
The squally weather which had prevailed during the previous night
had increased the swell considerably, so that during our return on
board, the boat was twice half filled with water and on the point of
sinking; indeed, it was not without much difficulty that we passed
round. I mention this for the information of those who may hereafter
undertake the same excursion. On a previous occasion I had walked
across the country from the bay in which the brig lay, to Wilhelmus
Bay, and, although the foot-path was by no means a smooth one, leading
continually over hills and mountains, we found the journey rather
pleasant than otherwise, which is especially the case in the cool of
the morning or evening.
At the general assembly, the chiefs brought me two old batons, which
had been presented to some of the late chiefs by the East India
Company; these I returned to their successors. There was no other
engraving upon them than a cypher comprising the initials of the
Dutch East India Company. To the Upper Orang Kaya I gave a new baton,
bearing the arms of the present king. The people earnestly requested
me to leave two soldiers with them to be the representatives of our
government. They evinced great joy when I informed them, that Paulus,
an Amboynese schoolmaster, whom I had brought from Roma for the purpose
of leaving him here were it necessary, should remain among them; and
in a short time they had a small but neat house prepared for him, and
zealously employed themselves in furnishing him with every thing that
was necessary.
I learned from a prayer book which I found among them, and which had
been preserved with the greatest care, that the last visit they had had
from a clergyman took place in the year 1789. The duties of M. Kam,
after so long a lapse, were therefore very arduous, but the people,
though extremely ignorant, appeared to entertain the greatest reverence
for the Christian religion. During our short stay, M. Kam baptized
more than two hundred and fifty people, old as well as young. The new
schoolmaster, Paulus, had been provided with a prayer book, with some
pens, ink and paper, and before our departure he had already commenced
instructing the inhabitants, his labours, as far as we could judge,
promising to be attended with the best results.
On this island we had a still stronger proof than on the others, of
the great attachment the natives shew to our customs and mode of
dress. At the general meeting, all the inhabitants present, men, women
and children, were clad in their festive dresses, and some of their
costumes were of the drollest description. About twenty of the men
wore old felt hats with broad brims, not unlike those used by the
Westphalian peasants. According to their own account, these hats had
been given to their forefathers by the first Europeans who arrived
here and built the fort, the remains of which we had seen. Others
wore extremely old fashioned coats, without any under covering for
their bodies; these garments being so ancient and threadbare, that
they appeared as if a hard shake would cause them to fall to pieces.
These antiquated vestments had been preserved, like Westphalian hams,
by being hung up in the smoke over their fireplaces, and after being
sufficiently dried, had been kept in small chests, by which means they
had remained uninjured by damp or insects.
The 8th of July, the last day of our stay on the island, was spent
in giving them solemn injunctions to live in unity and concord,
after which we took a hearty farewell, the natives expressing their
thankfulness and attachment to the Dutch Government, by repeated shouts
of "Salamat Compania!" and "Salamat Gouvernment!" expressed with the
utmost candour.
I now commissioned the Upper Orang Kaya to keep all the serviceable
prahus in readiness, that they might assist us in towing the brig
out of the harbour, in case there should be any necessity for such
assistance. At two o'clock the following morning, the east wind having
subsided, we weighed anchor and got under sail with a light air from
the northward; after I had fired a signal gun, as agreed on, a large
number of prahus soon made their appearance. A strong swell rolled into
the bay; and as there was very little wind, we did not reach the mouth
of the harbour until half-past five o'clock. The tide experienced among
these islands is very slight, and at the same time very irregular. The
east-south-east wind having set in again, we sent away the prahus that
had been towing us, with many thanks, and worked out of the bay with
short tacks. When under the north shore we were suddenly becalmed,
and the swell was so heavy that the brig drifted rapidly towards the
steep rocky shore, until she was within three ship's lengths of it,
when a breeze arose and carried her clear. It will be advisable for the
mariner to give the northern shore of the bay rather a wide berth, and
to be careful not to get baffled under the high shores.
The small islands to the southward of Damma, together with Teon, an
island lying to the east-north-east, are uninhabited. In the fine
monsoon, turtle in great abundance are caught upon them, especially
the _Karet_ turtle, which yields the shell so much valued for the
manufacture of combs, &c. This animal, which may be sometimes
perceived sleeping on the water, defends itself vigorously when
attacked, with its beak. Its flesh is not so delicate as that of the
sea (or green) turtle, which is also very numerous among these islands,
but the shell of the latter is of little value. The turtle-catchers
lie in wait for them when they come on shore, and take an opportunity
of turning them on their backs, when they cannot rise again. They
sometimes reach the enormous weight of eight hundred pounds. The female
lays her eggs, hundreds at a time, on the sea shore; concerning which I
shall hereafter offer some remarks.
During the east monsoon there is usually fine weather, which stood
us in good stead, as we proceeded from one place to another with
tolerable rapidity. With favourable wind and weather we steered from
Damma towards the island of Lakor, without anything of moment occurring
during the voyage.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 15: I shall occasionally make a slight mention of our
anchoring places, which, until now, have seldom or never been visited,
as it will be of great service to my brother officers, in the event of
their making a similar voyage to my own. I am sure those readers to
whom such details are of little importance, will willingly bear with me
in this.]
[Footnote 16: Bondsmen are those who borrow a sum of money, and serve
their creditors until it is repaid. As it is very difficult, indeed
almost impossible, for them to do this, they remain ever after in
a state of bondage, little better, in fact, than actual slavery,
as according to their customs the creditor may assume the power of
disposing of them to another.]
[Footnote 17: Erected in 1773 with the help of God.]
[Footnote 18: This bird, which bears much resemblance to a blue pigeon,
is celebrated in the Moluccas for the part it takes in planting the
nutmeg tree. They strip the nut and swallow it, but the mace alone is
digested, and the nut, which is discharged entire, soon sprouts and
becomes a tree. When these are discovered they are usually transplanted
into nutmeg parks.]