MOA AND ROMA.
Boat Expedition to the Island of Moa.--Good Inclination of the
Inhabitants.--The Block-house.--The Duif Family.--Character of the
People.--Respect entertained by the Heathen towards the Christian
Inhabitants.--State of Civilization and Public Instruction.--Kind
Hospitality of the Natives.--Their Feelings of Attachment and
Confidence towards the Dutch Government.--Departure for the Island of
Roma.
According to an old _adat_ or custom, the ships of the Dutch East India
Company never anchored off Moa, but remained at Lette, whence the
Company's servants were conducted to Moa by a chief of that island, who
came over for the purpose; and as I did not wish to make an inroad into
old usages, I made known my arrival to the people of Moa, upon which
the chief of the village of Tombra came over to welcome me, and to
offer his vessel for my accommodation during the proposed expedition.
On the 21st of June I departed for Moa, accompanied by several of my
officers, and followed by two of our boats carrying the detachment of
marines, while a number of native prahus brought up the rear. Having
a fair wind, we soon arrived off the west coast of the island, where
we found a large crowd of the natives assembled, who gave us a most
enthusiastic welcome. I cannot find terms to describe how gratifying it
was to us to discover in all these islands, so sincere and unanimous
a feeling of attachment towards our Government; for the long period,
during which the friendly communication between these inhabitants and
the Dutch had been discontinued, appeared only to have added fresh fuel
to their attachment.
The part of the island at which we had arrived was due east from the
village of Batu Mean, and no sooner had we stepped on shore than
a number of litters, which had been prepared for us, were brought
forward, when there existed no little commotion among the crowd, each
wishing that the village to which he belonged should be honoured by our
first visit. Here we took a kind farewell of the chiefs of Lette who
had accompanied us, when they departed homewards amid repeated mutual
congratulations. We now deposited ourselves in the litters, which were
provided with curtains of chintz or coloured cotton; our own party,
which numbered six, together with the chiefs, being carried in this
manner, and as the crowd was very great, the bearers could change
frequently during our tolerably long journey to the head village.
Behind us walked the detachment of marines, and the domestics who
carried the presents, so that our train had a very imposing appearance.
Our way lay, for the most part, over level uninhabited land, cultivated
in some places, and in others overgrown with _allang-allang_, a
sort of wild grass, growing to the height of four or five feet. The
foot-path was narrow and bad, and this, combined with the heat of the
sun, and the length of the distance, rendered the journey extremely
painful, especially to our marines. We had left the landing-place at
half-past eight, and owing to these difficulties did not arrive at our
destination until one in the afternoon, and as this was too long a
period to remain in the litters, we often relieved our cramped limbs by
walking.
The villages of Roksali, Taynama, and Patti, to which we were
journeying, are situated on a piece of high coral ground near the
beach, and are separated from each other by high stone walls. We
marched into the chief of these with drums beating and colours
flying, and were received by the inhabitants with much friendship and
confidence. One of the chiefs requested us to stay a short time under
the shade of a high tree in the village, when he left us, and soon
afterwards we were welcomed with much ceremony by a very aged native,
who was entirely clad in an ancient European costume. He wore a large
wig, a three-cornered hat, short breeches with large knee-buckles,
and a coat with wide sleeves, ruffles, and spacious skirts; while on
his feet he had high shoes, with heavy silver buckles: in short, he
was clad after the fashion of the seventeenth century. This old man
frankly offered us whatever the village contained, stating that men
and goods were at our disposal; and declaring that our arrival had
inspired him and his countrymen with the greatest delight. His joy was
not feigned, for in many conversations which I afterwards held with
him he gave most unequivocal proofs of his earnest attachment to the
Dutch Government, and the sincerity of his feelings was undoubted,
as, although he reasoned well, he yet gave proofs of great age having
impaired his understanding; therefore he would have been unable to keep
his duplicity concealed had any existed. This old man had once been
governor or regent of the island. The whole population viewed him with
the highest respect; they consulted him on every affair of importance,
and his clear knowledge of men and things, coupled with his long
experience, gave him a great influence over them. He had resigned his
authority several years since, and his grandson, of whom mention will
be made hereafter, had been appointed his successor, with the title of
Upper Orang Kaya.
After I had remained under the high tree some time conversing with
this worthy native, we were conducted to a Block-house, situated near
the sea, which had formerly been the abode of the garrison left here
by the (Dutch) East India Company. This building, which was tolerably
large, and of great strength, was surrounded by a good stone wall, one
hundred and fifty paces square, provided with several look-out houses,
and four doors. Upon a board above the door of the house were cut these
words:--"_De Korporaal Duif heeft dit gebouw gesticht in het jaar
17_..,"[13] the date was legible no farther.
The natives had preserved the Block-house in a good state of repair,
out of regard for the Company (which term they usually apply to the
Netherlands' Government,) and in the hope that they would once more
be favoured (this was their expression) by the presence of a Dutch
garrison. Even the bed places of the three soldiers, who had resided
here, were left entire. On the occasion of our coming the entire
building had been repaired and beautified, so that at the present time
it was in a very serviceable state.
I will here give an instance of the nice sense of propriety shown by
these people, at which I must confess I was surprised. No sooner had
we expressed a wish to take a little rest than they all retired, no
one coming near unless called for; while two natives posted themselves
at the door, to inform those who wished to enter that we were not to
be disturbed; and this was done without any wish to that effect having
been expressed by any one of our party.
A family who went by the name of Duif, were among those who came to
greet me on my arrival. The head of the family announced to me that
he was the son of the Corporal Duif who had been entrusted with the
erection of the Block-house, and that his father had married a native
woman, from whom had sprung a very numerous progeny. I found here, as
well as on the islands I had previously visited, that it is a mark of
distinction to have sprung from an European. Those who have a mixture
of our blood in their veins, are called "Anak Compania" (children of
the Company), and they are not a little proud of the title, although it
confers upon them no exclusive privileges.
Immediately after we had entered the Block-house, and our baggage had
been brought in, the bearers and other natives retired, a chief and six
others remaining, to attend to our wants. Meat, eggs, milk and Indian
corn were brought to us, and with this they prepared a patriarchal
meal, which was seasoned with kind hospitality.
The place where we had taken up our residence was situated on the
south-west point of the island, close to the shore, where the reefs are
steep to, so that here, especially in the rainy monsoon, there is a
very heavy surf. On every point of the east side of the island there is
good and convenient anchorage.
The inhabitants of Moa turn their chief attention to breeding cattle,
and grow only a small quantity of vegetables and Indian corn, the two
last being chiefly for home consumption. The vessels which come to
trade with the island generally anchor under the coast of Lette, and
obtain the buffaloes, goats, hogs, and fowls from natives of Lette,
who go to Moa to purchase them; but the traders themselves sometimes go
to Moa to fetch them in their own prahus. The inhabitants of the latter
island never carry their stock to sea in their own vessels, as, from an
old tradition, they entertain a superstitious notion that, were they
to do so, some serious misfortune would inevitably befal them. Their
flocks and herds are composed chiefly of sheep and buffaloes.
On Moa, as well as on most of the other islands, the population is
divided into two classes, Christians and heathens, which may be
considered as standing in the same relation to each other as masters
and subjects. The subordination of the heathens, (who are by far the
most numerous,) and the respect they entertain towards the Christians,
are very remarkable, and may be partly attributed to the superior
consideration in which the Christians are held by our Government; but
undeniably, it is in a great measure owing to an irresistible belief on
the part of the heathens, in the moral superiority of the Christians.
That the latter must be the chief cause is apparent, from no Dutch ship
of war having visited these islands for a long series of years.
On the north-east point of Moa, a solitary high mountain, called
_Korbou_, or Buffalo Peak, resembling in appearance, but much inferior
in height to the famed Peak of Teneriffe, raises its head above the
remaining part of the island, which consists generally of flat land.
The ground is everywhere corally; and on the south and south-eastern
parts of the island there is very little cultivation. The extensive
plains, which produce nothing but _allang-allang_, are converted into
good meadow land by the skill of the natives, who, at the end of the
dry season, when this coarse grass has been almost withered by the
continued heat and drought, set fire to it, and it is soon reduced to
ashes. The rains, which shortly follow, combined with the heat of the
sun, render the land thus prepared very productive, the ashes forming
an excellent manure. The young grass, which now springs up, affords
sumptuous fare for the stock; this fact being attested by the sleek and
fat condition of the buffaloes, sheep, and other animals which feed
upon it; indeed, the buffaloes of Moa are considered to be the best
that can be procured among those islands.
Specie is seldom or never in use among the natives, cloth, brass-wire
and other articles of foreign manufacture or produce, being used as a
medium of exchange. A buffalo is to be purchased by goods to the value
of five or six guilders (8_s._ 4_d._ to 10_s._), while the price of a
sheep is from two to three guilders. Fishing is not so much pursued,
either by the people of Moa, or by those of the neighbouring islands,
as one would be led to expect, when the abundance of fish is taken into
consideration. No wild animals are to be met with on the island. A few
blue pigeons are occasionally seen; but I have traversed the island
for hours together, in company with some other lovers of field-sports,
without meeting with any game.
On the day after our arrival at the head village, I commenced
transacting the business with which I had been entrusted. The
assembling of the chiefs and people was conducted in the same manner
as in Kissa and Lette, and I was constantly employed for three days
attending to their affairs, instituting measures for increasing their
prosperity, and forming plans for bettering their social state,
especially as far as regards public instruction. The natives expressed
their desire, as strongly as those I had previously visited, to receive
among them a Dutch garrison, and a local teacher for their youth. I
noted down the chief points of their desires, and promised that I would
make them known to the Governor of the Moluccas.
It is generally supposed by us that the inhabitants of those distant
places are only Christians in name, and have very little true knowledge
of our religion; but I am authorized to say from experience, that this
opinion is far from being a just one. To my surprise I found among the
Christians of Moa, not only an extensive knowledge of the Bible, but
also a very clear notion of our religious doctrines. There are very
many among them who read and write very well, and when it is taken
into consideration that very little instruction has been given them
for a long series of years, we cannot help forming a good opinion of
the industry and docility of this simple people; I can bear witness
that, on this point, the inhabitants of this little island are equal,
if not superior, to the natives of Amboyna, who have had far better
opportunities of instruction afforded them.
The presence of M. Kam was in the highest degree agreeable to the
inhabitants, and they listened with a profound attention, and a lively
interest, to the religious discourses of this zealous clergyman, who
baptized and married many of his hearers, my fellow voyagers and
myself deriving much pleasure from being present at the ceremonies.
The religious state of these people is, in a great measure, to be
attributed to the exertions of M. Le Bruin, a zealous missionary of
Coepang on Timor, who occasionally visits some of these islands.
On the 23rd I appointed the chiefs to the various villages, together
with an upper Orang-Kaya, to whom I gave a baton with a silver knob,
and a Dutch flag. During our stay on the island our table was supplied
in the greatest abundance with meat, vegetables, fruit, and every
thing that the island afforded; and when I offered anything to the
bearers as payment for these, it was civilly but firmly refused, with
the declaration that they had received orders to take nothing either
as payment or as reward. All that I could induce them to receive as
a token of acknowledgment was a small cask of arrack, of which they
appear to be great admirers, although they make a very moderate use of
it, and deem it a great disgrace to be found guilty of drinking it to
excess.
When I mentioned to the chiefs that I had myself taken on board the
provisions I deemed necessary, and that, should I require any more, I
would willingly demand and pay for it, that I might be no burthen to
the people, my proposal appeared to be by no means agreeable to them.
They answered, it was an old custom for the natives to administer
to the wants of the Company, and that the people would regret seeing
a change in the system, _as this custom afforded them a wished-for
opportunity of giving a slight proof of their attachment, and they
would feel hurt at being deprived of this gratification_.
In the mean time, I remarked that they were making preparations to
give something more than this "slight proof of attachment," in the
shape of a national feast to celebrate the occasion of our visit, and
the renewal of their former friendship with the Dutch. As this feast,
however, would have detained me two days more, while my time was too
valuable to be thrown away, I was forced to decline their invitation,
informing them that my departure was irrevocably fixed for the 24th of
June. In the course of this day they showed us all possible friendship,
as if they wished to make themselves doubly useful during the short
period in which we should remain. The evening was spent in making
farewell visits, and at half-past four in the morning our bearers were
in readiness, when the chiefs conducted us to the boats, the upper
Orang-kaya accompanying us to the brig, where we arrived at two o'clock
in the afternoon. The people of Moa, as a parting present, sent after
us two fat bullocks, as if what they had already done for us were not
enough.
Having thus, according to my instructions, done my utmost towards
deciding their differences, and placing their affairs on a firm basis,
I took my departure on the 27th of June for Roma, a hilly island, about
twenty-four miles in circumference, lying about forty miles to the
north-west of Moa. On the same day we arrived off Roma, and anchored in
seven fathoms on a bank of sand, extending northward to the distance of
about half a mile from Nusa Midta, a small island lying off the south
end of Roma, from which it is separated by a strait about three miles
wide. There is also a bay on the north-west side of Roma, in which
it is said that there is very good anchorage, but that part of the
island possesses a very scanty population, while the uncleared state
of the country renders it difficult to perform a journey to the chief
villages, all of which are situated on the more southern parts of the
island. On the south-west side of Roma, immediately opposite to the
north end of Nusa-Midta, lies a fine and fertile valley, through which
runs a small river. In the west monsoon there is good anchorage for
a vessel opposite the mouth of this river, from which abundance of
timber and fire-wood, and good water, may be obtained. On all the other
sides of the island the shores are steep and rocky, on which beats a
heavy surf, rendering the landing from boats extremely difficult.
The population of Roma is not very great. The inhabitants, however,
are more civilized than on many of the neighbouring islands, and in
point of industry and morality they vie with the social and orderly
people of Kissa. The chief village was situated to the north-north-east
of our anchoring place, on a hill about four hundred feet above the
level of the sea, the houses, with the hills rising behind it like an
amphitheatre, presenting a very beautiful landscape. Their village was
formerly built upon the beach, but the repeated attacks of the Ceramese
pirates forced them to remove it to its present site.
The Orang Kayas and Orang Tuas, as usual, came on board to welcome
us; and on the following morning I went on shore, accompanied by M.
Dielwart, M. Kam, the surgeon, the clerk, the interpreters, and the
detachment of marines. As it was high water we had to land through
a very heavy surf, when we were received with much friendship, and
introduced into the _Kota Compania_, (the Government block-house,)
which consisted of a spacious bamboo house, surrounded by a stone
wall, within which there was also a tolerably large church. In
consequence of the removal of the village, these now lie below the
houses of the natives. The level ground in the neighbourhood is covered
with dwellings, each being surrounded by a neat garden. Evidence of the
uncommon industry of the people was everywhere apparent, the natural
fertility of the soil being greatly increased by the skill with which
they cultivate it; indeed, many of the neighbouring islands obtain here
their supplies of Indian corn, fruits and other provisions, as well
as timber for building their prahus. A large and beautiful valley,
extending between the hills to the westward of the village of Jerusa,
was covered with plantations of Indian corn, rice and vegetables, while
the sides and summits of the hills were decked with grazing flocks of
goats, sheep, hogs and buffaloes.
During a walk which we took along the shore and thence into the
interior, we spied a number of bees' nests hanging from the branches
of the high trees, some of which more than two feet in circumference.
The wax and honey are collected with very little difficulty, and the
bees, when driven from their nests, generally build another on the same
tree. Wax, indeed, forms a very important article of commerce here,
large quantities of it being sold to the _paduakans_ and other prahus
which come from the Arru Islands, Amboyna and Banda, to obtain it. The
usual price is one third of a guilder per _Catti_ (20 oz. avoird.) and
this is paid in goods, for specie is very little used.
The Christian inhabitants form the greater portion of the population,
and they live on a better footing with the heathens than on the other
islands. The latter, indeed, are very desirous to embrace Christianity,
and a great number of them were baptized by M. Kam during our stay.
They willingly allow their children to learn reading and writing, and
the good disposition of these islanders, coupled with their natural
capacity and application, would render it a matter of facility to
convert the entire population; an event very much to be desired, not
only for the improvement it would effect in their social state, but for
matters of policy also, as experience has incontestibly proved that
those natives who have embraced Christianity shew much more fidelity
towards the Dutch Government than the others. The teacher who has
lately been placed upon this island by our government, and whom we met
during our stay, shews much praise-worthy zeal in his endeavours to
improve the condition of the people with whom he is domiciled.
The government of the entire island is invested in an upper _Orang
Kaya_, who resides at Jerusa, the neighbouring villages having each
their _Orang Tua_ or elder. The power of the Orang Kaya, however, is
by no means absolute, for in the event of any dispute the chiefs of
the villages assemble, and the decision is carried by the majority of
votes. It is remarkable that sometimes, on the death of a chief, his
power is transferred to his wife, so that several women are often to
be seen among the chiefs when assembled in conclave. The debates are
occasionally continued for two or three days, but they are usually
settled without much difference of opinion.
As the people live in such a state of harmony with each other, my
official duties were not very heavy, and were soon brought to a close.
David Benedictus De Klerk, a young man, was appointed as their Upper
Orang Kaya, and solemnly invested with the silver-knobbed cane, to
the general satisfaction of the people. Here also they declared that
everything the country afforded was at our free disposal, and earnestly
requested that a couple of Dutch soldiers might be left behind, as
representatives of our government, with the promise that they should
be liberally supplied with all necessaries. The new appointed Orang
Kaya, and more than one hundred and fifty men, women and children,
were baptized by M. Kam, many of the people present being clad after
the European style, apparently wishing by these means to shew their
attachment to our nation, as was the case at the island of Kissa.
I could not avoid observing that the women of Roma though tall and well
made, and not inferior in point of personal attractions to those of the
adjacent islands, yet have a defect in their figures where their fair
neighbours are particularly favoured by nature. Nearly all the women
we saw here, even those who were nursing children, had bosoms as flat
as those of the men, while in every other respect their figures are
unexceptionable. This striking peculiarity, is perhaps to be attributed
to some local cause, like the _goitre_ in the mountains of Switzerland.
Our departure was fixed for the 30th of June, and on the previous
evening a farewell repast was given at the Kota Compania, at which all
the chiefs were present. I had contributed some bottles of wine, and a
small cask of arrack to the entertainment, and these were expended in
drinking prosperity to the Dutch nation and government. We returned on
board betimes, escorted by a number of native prahus. Although we had
been amply provided with stock and vegetables during our stay, several
goats and hogs were sent after us, which we found it impossible to
refuse.
We steered to the westward along Nusa Midta, which is a small
uninhabited island covered with trees, but not affording any fresh
water. On this and the other islands around Roma abundance of large
turtle are caught by the natives, who do not, however, turn much
attention to fishing, commerce and agriculture being better suited to
their tastes. In the small but important islands which we visited,
the natives might soon be brought into a high state of prosperity,
from which our government would derive the greatest benefit. Even now
they possess capacious vessels, such as Paduakans,[14] Orang-baays and
such like, which they manage with skill, but they have been so long
deprived of the protection of our government that they scarcely dare to
carry on a trade with the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands.
From this place we pursued our voyage towards the island of Damma, of
which some particulars will be given in the ensuing chapter.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 13: Corporal Duif erected this building in the year 17..]
[Footnote 14: Paduakans are native vessels, having a single mast in the
form of a tripod, on which is set a large oblong mat sail, similar to
that used by the fishing prahus of Batavia. They are of from twenty to
one hundred tons burden (_ten tot fifty lasten_) with great beam and
high sides, but having little hold in the water. They are steered by
two long rudders, which are lifted up when the vessel is at anchor or
passing over shallow water.]