day at half-past 6 o'clock, A.M. discovered the island of Ramitaria,
on the lee bow, about eight leagues from us. This island was not
laid down in any of our charts, having been discovered only three or
four years before; but we had seen a gentlemen who had stopped there,
and it was included in our list of islands. On approaching it we
were pleased to find that it differed from many of the islands we had
visited, being of a moderate elevation. It is about three miles long
and one or two wide. We ran nearly round it before we found a place
to land, the surf breaking high every where, and the shores bounded
by large rocks of coral. At last, we came to the principal
settlement, which was situated close to the shore, where a large
white-washed house indicated the former visits and influences of the
missionaries. The people, to the number of one or two hundred, were
assembled on the beach inviting us to land. Here, also, was a
considerable surf and some coral rocks, which made the landing not
altogether free from difficulty. When the boat came near the shore
and while she was yet shooting rapidly through the surf, the natives,
who had already advanced to meet us, laid hold as many as could get
round her, and with loud shouting, carried us high upon the beach.
At this somewhat unexpected reception, the boat's crew instinctively
seized their pistols, thinking at first, that the natives were
hostile in their disposition towards us. It was but a momentery
panic which passed away with the kind salutations we immediately
afterwards received. When I enquired for the chief, a young man was
pointed out to me in the crowd, distinguished from the rest by an old
hat on his head, that he had obtained from some former visiter. He
seemed not to be treated with the least respect by the people, who
jostled him in the crowd with the most perfect carelessness.
Scarcely had I addressed him, when a stout native came up with an air
of some importance, and saluting me, told me in the language of the
Society Islands, that he was the missionary. Upon his approach, the
chief immediately shrunk back into the crowd. He called to him a
Malay, who was not far off, and bade him ask what we wanted. The
Malay, whose name was Manoo, spoke English very well, which was a
source of great satisfaction to us, as we could thereby communicate
our wants freely, and it introduced us at once to each others'
acquaintance. I explained to Manoo that we were in want of water and
such refreshments as the island might afford. He immediately
proceeded in company with the missionary to show me where water was
to be obtained. We passed through a forest of very large trees over
a plain that extended more than half a mile, when we came to a marsh
of reeds and rank grass, where there was from one to two feet of
water, covering an area of two or three acres. This would not answer
our purpose as the water was not very good, and its distance from the
place of embarkation rendered it too laborious an undertaking to
water the vessel from it. When I had remarked this to Manoo and the
missionary, they replied that there was better water, but it was
still more distant. I suffered them to conduct me to it, and we took
a footpath over rising ground, and through another delightful forest
of bread-fruit and other wide-spreading trees, passing many fine
tarrow patches, and at the distance of half a mile from the marsh, we
came to a spring of excellent water. Manoo and the missionary both
expressed a great deal of disappointment when I spoke in terms of
disapprobation of this also as a watering-place--it being altogether
too far from the shore. On our return from the spring, we took a
different footpath from that by which we came, and ascended to a more
elevated part of the island to see the work of the missionary, as it
was called by Manoo. This consisted of two or three enclosures by
means of stakes, in the midst of the forest, where the trees had been
cut down for several acres, which was cleared and planted with sweet
potatoes and tobacco. The enclosures were made, and all the labour
of clearing the forest was done, as Manoo remarked, by such of the
wicked and disobedient, as had resisted the authority and ordinances
of the white missionary during his residence on the island some
months previous. Since then, the white missionary had returned to
Otaheite, and sent this native missionary, who belonged to that
island, to represent him in his absence. Leaving the enclosures of
tobacco and sweet potatoes, we came into a thicket where the trees
were overrun with the vines of the yam, growing wild and covered with
beautiful blue flowers that gave a picturesque appearance to the
forest, and filled it with their fragrance. We passed five or six
stone columns that had been sixty or seventy feet high, and twenty or
thirty in circumference. They were in a dilapidated state, having in
part been thrown down by order of the missionaries. Manoo told me
that they were monuments erected in honour of the Indian god.
Several of these ruins were standing by the side of an old
burial-place in the edge of the woods near the shore. Each of the
graves were neatly enclosed with a wall of stone. When we returned
to the village, I was taken to a large frame building called the
missionary house, where the missionary had prepared a roasted pig and
some tarrow, for our dinner. He designed to entertain me after the
manner of the whites, and with this view, had placed our repast on a
large coarse table that stood in the middle of the room with benches
round it. When we were seated, he unlocked a chest and took from it
a plate for each of us, and a knife and fork, all of which were
extremely dirty, and the knives and forks quite covered with rust.
This, however, he did not seem to remark, although he evidently
wished me to think that he knew how to be polite, after the fashion
of my country people. He acquitted himself pretty well, to his own
satisfaction, until he attempted to use the knife and fork--but that
was altogether too much for him. After making several trials in vain
to cut his meat, he asked me to assist him; and finally, before he
had half finished his dinner, laid down his clumsy instruments and
used his fingers. The chief, and as many of the natives as could get
into the room came round us, but none of them were invited to partake
with the missionary and myself, except Manoo, whilst the hungry crowd
stood looking wistfully at us.
Soon after we had finished our dinner, the captain and several of the
officers landed, and we exchanged several articles with the natives
for their pigs, yams, &c. The following day was their Sabbath and
our Saturday, and they insisted that we should remain until Monday,
before any exchange of commodities took place. When, however, we
declared our determination to depart that evening, they began
collecting whatever might be acceptable to us. Hogs of various
sizes, were brought to the beach in great numbers. Needles,
jack-knives, and old clothes, were our articles of traffic, than
which we could have offered them nothing more valuable. By sundown,
we had collected from thirty to forty hogs, and a good supply of
yams. In a few hours more, we might have obtained twice as many upon
the same terms.
Towards the close of the day, when the missionary felt assured that
it was our determination to depart, he asked if I was a doctor, or
had any skill in medicine; and, although I replied in the negative,
insisted upon my going to his house to see, and prescribe for his
wife, who, he told me, was extremely ill. Upon entering his hut, we
found her laying on a mat on the floor; and notwithstanding the
weather was oppressively warm, she was covered over with a great many
pieces of the tappa cloth, head and all, and perspiring most
profusely. The missionary, with great gravity, but most
unceremoniously, removed all the covering, and pointed out to me her
infirmity, which was nothing more than a common bile, with which she
seemed to be suffering considerable pain. I declined prescribing,
although repeatedly requested to do so; and at sun-down, we embarked
and made sail. Had it been convenient for us to remain two days
longer at Ramitarias, we could have obtained an abundant supply of
whatever the island produced, for a very trifling consideration; but
although there was anchorage, it was unsheltered, and too near the
shore for us to ride in safety.
At six, P.M. on the 10th of June, we took our departure from
Ramitarias; and at day-light, on the 13th, made the Island of
Toubouai, bearing to the northward and eastward, about eight leagues
from us. In getting in with the S.W. part of the island, we found an
extensive reef, upon which the surf was breaking with great violence.
We hauled round to the east side, passing two small uninhabited
islands, but there was not the slightest appearance of a
landing-place, the surf breaking heavily as far as we could see. At
four, P.M. we anchored on the north side, in seven fathoms water, and
sent boats in search of the harbour, along the west shore. In the
evening, they returned, having found it, and on the following
morning, we got underway, and beat up for it. When we had advanced
near the opening, through the coral reefs that extend from the shore
several miles, a Mr. Strong, an American, came on board, and piloted
us in through a difficult passage. The channel was narrow, and very
crooked; but we had not less than three and a half fathoms water.
Our anchorage was within a coral reef, about a mile from the shore,
in four and a half fathoms. On the day previous to entering the
harbour, we discovered that the head of our mainmast was decayed, and
badly sprung. In this situation, we congratulated ourselves in
having found a secure harbour, where the water was tolerably smooth,
which was very essential in fixing the mast securely.
Nearly all the inhabitants of Toubouai, consisting of about two
hundred, were living on the side of the island where we were
anchored, in two different settlements. One of them was the
residence of two Otaheite missionaries, who governed in spiritual and
temporal affairs; and at the other, was the residence of the king,
who, since the coming of the missionaries, retained but a small share
of the power that formerly appertained to his station. He lived on
apparently good terms with the missionaries, fearing their influence
with the people, but secretly declaring his aversion to them. He was
the more afraid of offending them, as there was a living example of
their displeasure constantly before him, in the person of one who had
formerly exercised the regal authority in the missionary village, of
which they had divested him for disobedience, and compelled him to
live in the condition of a common private person. Soon after the
arrival of the missionaries, the people became divided into two
parties, one of which advocated matrimony, and the other the
unrestrained indulgence which is practised in a state of nature. The
first, called themselves the missionary party; the latter, the party
of the Tutiori. After a long struggle for the ascendency, the
Tutiories took up arms and retired from the habitable part of the
island, declaring themselves independent of the missionaries. They
remained for several days undisturbed in their disobedience, when a
party was sent to bring them to terms. The Tutiories at first
retreated, but finally made a stand, and after a slight show of
resistance, submitted, promising to go home and live in the
observance of the missionary precepts. The dethroned king, was at
the head of the Tutiories.
At the lower village, as it was called by us, where the king lived,
was a party of our countrymen, who had been there for a number of
months building a vessel. They had completed the frame and commenced
planking, when, unfortunately, a quarrel arose between them and the
people of the missionary village, which terminated in open hostility,
and the loss of several lives. One of the white men only, was
killed. Scarcely had they made peace with the natives, when they
quarrelled among themselves, and nearly half of their number (four or
five) discontinued their work, and waited only for an opportunity to
leave the island. This mutinous disposition of a few, paralized the
efforts of the whole party, and it was probable from appearances,
that the labour they had bestowed with so much effect, would be
entirely lost to themselves and their employer, Captain Dana of
Massachusetts, whom we had seen at Oahoo.
The king and myself, became high carnies, (or great friends) the day
after our arrival; and from that time until our departure, he did
everything in his power to merit my regard. My mess was constantly
supplied with bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, tarrow, and bananas; and
whenever I was on shore, he waited upon me everywhere with the most
friendly attention. Our friendship commenced in the following
manner, simple enough, it is true, but I believe it was not the less
sincere on that account. Seeing me with a jack-knife in my hand, he
expressed a wish to look at it, when I told him that he might have
it. He received it, and after observing me for a moment, put his
hand upon my arm and remarked, now you and I will be high carnies. I
sincerely reciprocated his kindness, so strongly recommended by the
disinterested simplicity with which it was proffered. Two or three
days after our arrival, I landed with a view of traversing the
island. I found king Dick, as I used to call him, upon a bank of
coral that stretched out from his house, with a long wooden spear in
his hand, looking about in the holes for fish. He begged me to wait
until he had taken one for his dinner, and he would accompany me.
Accordingly, having succeeded in a few minutes afterwards, we set off
together.
The island was two or three miles wide, and we had not proceeded far,
when we came to an extensive marsh that runs through the middle of
it. King Dick stopped, and insisted upon carrying me over on his
back. Feeling that it was too menial an office to be performed by a
king, although an untutored native, I remonstrated with him, and
positively refused to be carried; but after resisting his importunity
for some time, he took my musket in his hand, and I mounted on his
shoulders. The marsh was several hundred yards wide, and king Dick
found his burthen very heavy before he landed me on the opposite
side. We there entered upon a romantic and extensive plain, covered
with cocoa-nut, and bread-fruit trees, plantain walks, papayas, &c.;
interspersed through which, were numerous huts that appeared to have
been long deserted. We traversed this plain for miles, with little
variation; the same pleasing prospect everywhere presenting itself,
when suddenly king Dick stopped, and made the whole forest ring with
the shrill notes of his voice. After repeating it for several times,
he was answered at a distance, and soon afterwards, we saw a native
making his approaches towards us. King Dick said something to him,
and he ascended a cocoa-nut tree, after the manner of the people of
the Marquesas, and threw down a sufficient quantity of nuts to quench
our thirst. He afterwards conducted us to a house where there were
two women and several children. They were delighted to see us, and
hospitably proffered whatever they had of refreshment. They gave us
a preparation of dried bread-fruit, of which king Dick ate very
heartily, but to me it was scarcely palatable. Near the house there
were several citron and lemon trees, the only ones that I saw on the
island.
In our route back, we met with large quantities of sugar cane in a
wild state. We passed the burial-place of the village, where, beside
two or three newly made graves, were rudely carved images placed
there in conformity to a native custom, that had not yet been
abolished by the influence of the missionaries. When we arrived at
king Dick's house, we found dinner waiting for us. It consisted of
the fish he had taken in the morning before our departure, roasted
fowls, bread-fruit, tarrow, &c. The whole was wrapped up in plantain
leaves, and placed on a mat upon the floor, around which, we all
seated ourselves, there being a number of visiters present. During
our repast, king Dick went frequently to a large chest, where he kept
a bottle of rum I had given him, and, after proffering me the bottle,
he would help himself, and lock it up in the chest again, without
taking the least notice of the rest of his visiters. No miser ever
guarded his treasure more penuriously than the king did his bottle of
rum; not only on this, but all other occasions. His house was large,
and a lounging place for all the idle people of his village; and,
although there were always a number present when I made my visits,
and he never failed to offer me a portion of his favourite beverage,
the wistful lookers-on received not the slightest notice. I once
ventured to propose to him to give some to his friends, but he said
no, it was too good for them. When, after a week's stay at Toubouai,
our departure was spoken of, king Dick expressed the liveliest
regret, and proposed going with us. We told him that he would never
be able to get back again; to which he replied, that he should not
care about returning. The day before we left, he sent me, on board,
an abundant sea-stock, of fruits and vegetables, and a good-sized
hog. As a parting gift, I dressed him up in an old uniform of mine,
that seemed to give him infinite pleasure. To his presents, his wife
added several pieces of the tappa cloth, some of which, were as fine
specimens of the native manufacture, as I ever met with anywhere.
At Toubouai, we added considerably to our collection of curiosities.
The most ingeniously wrought article, was a lash, used by the natives
for brushing the flies off of their backs. The handles were carved
to represent a man's face, or some animal familiar to them. The lash
itself, was, in several strands, finely braided from twine of the
cocoa-nut husk. The natives were, in general, naked, except a
wrapper round their waists, and had a sickly and feeble look. The
island is very fertile, producing, in many parts, large quantities of
cocoa-nut and bread-fruit, and is capable, without further
improvement, of sustaining some thousands of people. The population
has greatly diminished within the recollection of recent visiters.
It must have been much greater when visited by the mutineers of the
Bounty, who built a fort on the island, but afterwards became
dissatisfied, and left it in consequence of the treacherous and
hostile character of the natives. The only survivor of those guilty
men, who is now the patriarch of Pitcairn's Island, states, that they
had war with the natives previous to leaving Toubouai, and that they
killed a great many of them. His estimate of the inhabitants at that
time, is fifteen thousand. King Dick told me, that the huts we saw
on the side of the island opposite to where we anchored, were once
inhabited by people who were all dead. We obtained wood and water of
a good quality, without much labour. Hogs were scarce, and we got
none but what were presented to us. The natives gave us a few
domestic fowls, in exchange for writing paper. The paper was used by
the women for making paste-board for a bonnet, that had just been
introduced amongst them by the wives of the Otaheite missionaries.
On the island of Toubouai, there is a tree, the bark of which, makes
excellent cordage. It is produced in great abundance, and grows to
the size of six or eight inches in diameter. After the ship builders
were interrupted in their work, by the discontent of some of the
party, the remainder made a rope-walk, and devoted themselves to
making rope of this bark. They had several small cables, and a
considerable quantity of rope. We purchased some, and found it to
wear nearly, or quite, as well as hemp. Arrow root, grows
spontaneously upon the island, and has been taken away by several
vessels, as an article of commerce. We were informed that the
scarcity of hogs was in consequence of a great many having been
carried off recently, by a vessel belonging to the missionaries.
Also, that they lay all the small islands under contribution, and
annually send their small vessels to collect the hogs, which they
barrel, and send to Port Jackson. This may be true or not. It was
positively asserted.
Our stock of bread was nearly exhausted, and what remained, was in a
damaged state. Having failed in all our attempts to obtain a supply
of yams, that would enable us to reach the coast of South America, an
examination was held upon the bread, to the end, that we might adopt
such expedients as should be deemed most proper. Valparaiso, was our
most direct port; there was but one inhabited island (Oparro,) in our
way, and that at some distance from a straight course. To avoid,
however, so disagreeable a circumstance as being without bread, we
determined to touch at Oparro, and get whatever we could for a
substitute. Accordingly, we put to sea on the 22d of June, and on
the 25th, made Oparro, a little before day-light, five leagues from
us. When we came near, its appearance was rude and inhospitable in
the extreme, being a mass of rugged mountains, about a thousand feet
high, and eight or ten miles in circumference. On the north-west
side, there were no signs of inhabitants. The mountains rose almost
perpendicularly from the Ocean, and we sounded frequently, close to
the shore, without getting bottom. In rounding the island, to the
northward and eastward, we opened a valley, where there was a number
of huts, and some patches of tarrow. A boat was sent in shore, and
two of the natives came on board, who informed us that there was a
harbour to the eastward. We continued on, and after landing at one
or two other small valleys, where there were huts and tarrow patches,
opened a beautiful deep bay, that had an appearance of great
fertility. Soon afterwards, an Englishman came on board, and offered
to pilot us in. He had not advanced far with the vessel, before she
grounded on a bank of coral, but fell off immediately, on putting the
helm down and throwing all aback. We were everywhere surrounded by
shoals of coral, and fearful of accidents, came to outside of the
harbour, where we had ten fathoms of water on one side, and five on
the other. The boats were sent off immediately, in search of tarrow.
It was planted everywhere, in large patches, where there was a small
valley, through which a stream of water found its way from the
mountains to the sea, and at a distance, the hills were green with
another species we had not before seen, called mountain tarrow. The
latter is superior to the low land tarrow, and will keep longer at
sea.