brig Harbinger, of Boston, addressed a letter to me, stating that his
store in the village had been broken open, and robbed of goods to a
large amount, and requesting my assistance to recover them. The
matter was laid before the chief, Crimacu, who instituted a search,
and on the following day, sent for Captain Jackson. At his hut, were
assembled most of the foreigners of any respectability on the island,
and many of the natives to witness the result of the inquiry. Some
of the thieves had already been detected, and now stood before the
chief, who, although very ill, sat up to question them about the
robbery. They confessed their guilt, and in answering the questions
put to them, convicted others, who were sent for and brought in,
until the number amounted to six. They had shared their booty, and
were sent out, with guards, to bring it from their different places
of concealment. It consisted, principally, of fine calicoes and
cloths, which had been put in tarrow patches, and oil casks, and when
returned, were so damaged, as to be of but little value to the owner.
When the chief got through with the inquiry, and had collected all
the goods that could be found, he asked Mr. Jackson what punishment
he would have inflicted upon the offenders. Mr. Jackson's reply was,
that he wanted restitution made for the loss he had sustained, and
that he would leave the punishment to the chief, according to the
usage of the islands. The chief contended that the men were all
poor, and had nothing wherewith to pay. He said that the chiefs were
also poor, and denied the justice of compelling them, under any
circumstances, to pay for the thefts of the people. He offered to
put the culprits at Captain Jackson's disposal, or inflict upon them
whatever punishment he should prescribe, according to the laws of his
own country. Captain Jackson refused to say what punishment the men
should receive, and only contended that the chief was bound to see
his property, or an equivalent, restored to him. The matter was, for
some hours in debate, when the chief compromised with Captain
Jackson, by promising to have a quantity of sandal-wood collected for
him within a prescribed period. The thieves were set at liberty
without punishment, in consequence of which, it was surmised by some
of our countrymen, that the chiefs had been concerned in the theft.
This, I thought, a very unjust suspicion, as the investigation took
place so publicly, that the fact, if it had been so, could hardly
have failed to appear in the course of the inquiry.
The magnanimity of Crimacu,[14] in promising an equivalent for the
damaged goods, which he was not bound to do by the customs of the
Sandwich Islands, or the laws of civilized communities, gave me the
highest opinion of his character. It appeared to me that he first
objected to remunerate the merchant for his loss, with no other
motive than to produce discussion, from which he might learn what
would be done in more enlightened countries, in a similar case. He
was told of the different punishments that the culprits would be
subject to under the laws of America and England, but nothing could
be advanced, even supposing that he was to act in accordance with the
laws of those countries, to prove that the chiefs or king of the
islands, were in any other way responsible for the thefts committed
by individuals, than to make them stand forth and suffer in person
for their offences. He remarked, that the information he received
from individuals of the same country, with respect to their laws and
customs, was often at variance, and so contradictory, that he was
frequently at a loss to know what he should do to answer the ends of
justice, and give satisfaction to the strangers who came to the
islands. He declared, that the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands,
wished to do like other people.
Amongst those with whom we held frequent and friendly intercourse,
was an Englishman, by the name of Wilkinson, who had taken passage to
the Sandwich Islands, in the Frigate Blonde, when she went there with
the remains of king Rio Rio, and who had banished himself from his
own country to this distant region, with a view of becoming a planter
of the Sandwich Islands. He had been, according to his own
statement, a planter in the West Indies in early life, and
subsequently on his return to England, joined a troop of horse, of
which he was a captain, destined for Spain, during the war in the
Peninsula, where he served for a considerable time, but at the close
of the war, having left the army, and met with a reverse of fortune,
he had determined to make the experiment in which he was now engaged.
A bold one, it must be confessed, for a man, at the age of
forty-five, and with an enfeebled constitution. Aided by Captain
Byron, (who, from his high rank, and the flattering mission upon
which he had been sent, was well prepared to assist him,) Mr.
Wilkinson obtained from the chiefs the first deed that ever was
granted by them, for two hundred acres of land. It was situated
about six miles from Onavoora, on elevated ground, bordering upon a
narrow valley that winds through the mountains for several miles back
from the sea. The chiefs granted the deed with great reluctance,
notwithstanding the respectable source from which the petition came,
being extremely tenacious of that command and sovereignty of the
soil, that enables them, at pleasure, to dispossess the occupant.
They the more willingly relinquished the spot that Mr. Wilkinson had
fixed upon for his residence, as it was situated upon land so high,
that it could not be used for the culture of tarrow, and was at the
time unoccupied. With uncommon industry, although cramped by the
want of money, that would have given it its full effect, he had
reclaimed from a wild state, about fifty acres of land, which, when
we arrived there, was planted with sugar-cane, corn, potatoes,
bananas, &c., thus providing for his immediate wants, whilst the cane
promised a rich harvest, that would amply reward him for his toil,
whenever he could complete his machinery for the manufacture of
sugar. In this, however, to all appearance when we were there, he
would encounter great difficulty, as materials were not easily
obtained; and although there were some mechanics on the island, their
constant employment in the village, where they could frequently see
their countrymen, and withal, their fondness for pleasure was likely
to deprive him for a long time of their useful services, without
which, he could do nothing. Connected with his land, was a stream of
water running from the mountains, that would answer his purpose for
manufacturing sugar. In a part of it that possessed all local
advantages, he had made a dam and collected part of the materials for
a mill, to be constructed in the simplest manner, but which, for the
want of mechanical aid, lay in almost the same rude state in which he
had purchased them. He anticipated, however, with great confidence,
that by the time the cane was ready for cutting, the mill would be
prepared, when the hopes by which he had first been stimulated, could
scarcely fail to be realized. The sugar cane grows wild upon the
Sandwich Islands, and Mr. Wilkinson's fields were from the native
growth, which he had planted in prepared land, and at our departure,
the canes were upwards of six feet high.
Although several strangers, familiar with the arts of civilized
countries, have settled and lived, for many years, amongst the
Sandwich Islanders, Mr. Wilkinson was the first individual who ever
attempted to put them in practice, upon a scale, sufficiently
extensive to improve, materially, the agricultural condition of the
islands, and thereby prove to the inhabitants the wealth they
possess, in a rich soil, and one of the finest climates on the face
of the globe. Should Mr. Wilkinson be successful, the result of his
experiment will probably do more towards the civilization of the
natives, and their ultimate advancement in knowledge and lasting
prosperity, than has yet been effected by all the white men that have
lived amongst them. This, I am aware, will be considered a rash
assertion by the good people of our country, who, from the best of
motives, feel deeply engaged in foreign missions, and, in expressing
this opinion, I will also bear testimony to the useful services of
the missionaries. From the best information that I could obtain upon
the subject, I am satisfied, that they have improved the morals of
the people, and if they devote themselves to the schools that they
have established, and to introducing the arts of life and
civilization, the time may not be distant, when the natives will be
prepared to receive Christianity. But in their present condition,
would it not be better, and more in the true spirit of that
benevolence and philanthropy which is inspired by our religion, to
teach them how to cultivate their land, to introduce grain and
fruits, congenial to the climate, and to plant and reap as we do,
rather than imbue their minds with a mysterious doctrine, which,
being beyond their comprehension, must resolve itself into a dark and
intolerant superstition.
The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands, are mild, amiable, and
intelligent, and susceptible of the highest degree of moral and
intellectual improvement. As a people, it may be said, that the
stamp of civilization is scarcely perceptible yet upon them; and it
is now inevitable, that they must bear the impress of those, whom our
philanthropists have sent to convert them to Christianity; and,
whether they become ignorant zealots, or intelligent Christians, will
depend upon their teachers. The situation of these missionaries is,
therefore, one of high responsibility, and ought not, in Christian
charity, to be occupied by the narrow-minded fanatic, or the ignorant
zealot. It is of the first importance that they, who dispose of the
vast means of the missionary society, should select only such men for
civilizing and Christianizing the Sandwich Islanders, as are
distinguished for their knowledge, and love of the useful arts of
life, as well as for practical piety.
The harbour of Onavoora, is a place of general rendezvous for the
whale ships, cruising on the coast of Japan, and in the vicinity of
the islands. The months of January, February, and March, being the
least favourable for their business, they then leave their cruising
ground, and go in search of refreshment. No place is so convenient
for them as the Sandwich Islands, and the port of Onavoora, being the
most commodious of any in the group, and affording an abundant supply
of vegetables, hogs, &c.,--they all congregate there in the months
above mentioned.
The average number that visit the island in the course of the year,
is upwards of fifty. More than twenty were there together, at
several different periods of our stay, some of which remained a few
days, some weeks, and a few one or two months, according to their
several necessities. At such times the seamen, from having been long
confined to the narrow precinct of their vessels, become very
insubordinate, and frequently give way to the most licentious
indulgences of their passions, regardless of every obligation of
obedience due to their officers. We witnessed frequent instances of
this kind, and had the satisfaction of being constantly useful to the
captains of ships, and the whaling interest, by restraining the
violent, and coercing them to a proper sense of duty.
A most unpleasant occurrence took place about six weeks after our
arrival at Onavoora, arising from this disposition of the seamen, and
other causes, which was afterwards greatly misrepresented in this
country. Some of the seamen of the Dolphin, who were on liberty, got
into a frolic, and, associating themselves with many others belonging
to the whale ships, determined to go to the houses of the high chiefs
and missionaries, and demand the repeal of a restriction that
deprived them of the society of females. They produced a riot that
gave rise to a considerable degree of excitement for a few minutes;
but Captain Percival, with some of the officers of the Dolphin, and
captains of whale-ships, promptly suppressed it, and prevented any
serious outrage. It was afterwards unjustly and most ungenerously
ascribed to the officers of the Dolphin.
The white population of Onavoora is of a varied character, from the
agent of our North West traders, to the most abandoned members of
society. There are from fifty to a hundred, permanently settled at
Onavoora; the least respectable of whom, maintain themselves by
keeping tippling shops Tor sailors, and practising such chicaneries
as are suggested by opportunities and the absence of law. The season
for the whalers to visit the Island is the time of their harvest,
when, besides their gains from entertaining the seamen, they
frequently prevail upon them to desert for the sake of the reward for
their apprehension, or to strip them of what little money or clothes
they may be possessed of. Some of them have married women of the
Island, and live much in the same way as the natives. Of all the
permanent settlers at Onavoora, the most remarkable was a Spaniard by
the name of Meninne, who had been in the Islands upwards of thirty
years. Of his manner of getting there, a variety of stories were
told. His own account was, that being invited on board of a vessel
that visited the coast of California, he fell asleep in the evening,
and, when he awoke, found himself at sea, and the vessel running,
with a fair wind, for the Sandwich Islands. All his entreaties to be
returned to land were in vain, and he arrived at Owhyhee, where, poor
and friendless, he was landed amongst the natives. He wandered from
island to island, in a forlorn and wretched condition, until he was
taken under the patronage of Tamahamaha. For a long time, he
followed the fortunes of the native warrior, and at length fixed his
residence at Oahoo, from whence he occasionally embarked as
interpreter on board of merchant vessels, bound on smuggling voyages
to the coast of America. After passing through a variety of fortune,
being several times made prisoner and threatened with death, he
finally quitted his vagrant life, and remained permanently at Oahoo,
where, by great industry and economy, he has acquired an amount of
property which, for that place, is a princely fortune. Besides
having money in the United States and England, he owns nearly all the
cattle on the Island of Oahoo, a number of horses, flocks of goats,
sheep, &c. He has extensive possessions in land, which he holds from
the chiefs in consideration of his services, and a great many houses.
He has taken some pains to introduce exotics in the Islands, and
besides the lemon, orange, and other valuable fruits, has a vineyard
from which he makes a considerable quantity of wine annually. He is
said to be extremely selfish, and so jealous of preserving to himself
a monopoly of these valuable fruits, that he has been accused of
destroying the young plants of others. He is considered as ranking
amongst the chiefs in the enjoyment of certain privileges; and,
speaking the language of the Islands well, is called upon as
interpreter for the government upon all important occasions. He has
had thirty-seven children by various wives, and is yet in the prime
of life. Like most men who have felt the cold hand of poverty, and
afterwards acquired wealth, he is extremely penurious, and thinks of
nothing so much as adding to his fortune without knowing how to enjoy
it.
On the 3d of April, the young king and all the high chiefs, were
invited on board to spend the day with us. In the morning, we
dressed the schooner in all the flags we could muster, and made the
best preparation our limited accommodation would admit of to receive
our distinguished guests. No indication of their appearance was seen
for some time after every thing was in readiness, and our boats on
shore in waiting, and we were kept in suspense until we had almost
despaired of seeing them. All at once the whole town was in an
uproar, and the people were running and hallooing in every direction.
The young king in advance, walked arm in arm with one of the officers
of the Dolphin. Next came Boque and his spouse, with other high
dignitaries, and in the rear a multitude of people of both sexes and
all ages. When they had embarked, the eyes of the people were turned
upon another object, not less interesting to them than the king.
Crimacu, or Billy Pitt, too ill to walk, was gravely making his way
to the beach in a hand cart, where he got into a boat and came on
board soon after the king. We received them with manned yards, and a
salute of twenty-one guns. The king, who was a boy of ten or twelve
years old, was dressed in a military uniform that was sent to him
from the king of England, and upon his shoulders he wore a pair of
golden epaulets, with crowns on them. He appeared to be sensible of
his rank, and, upon two or three occasions, addressed his attendants
in a way that indicated a wish to make a display of his authority.
The chiefs conducted themselves towards him with a becoming respect,
but without bestowing upon him any attention that might interfere
with their own enjoyment or convenience. Instead of partaking of
what we had provided for our guests, they, with one or two
exceptions, unceremoniously uncovered their poye pots, which had been
brought with them by an attendant, and ate heartily of their
favourite food, using their fingers as is the native custom. Boque
again displayed his major general's uniform, and was amongst the most
polished of our guests. After passing a number of hours on board,
they returned to the shore delighted with their visit. The same
compliment was paid them as at their reception. It was a day of
great enjoyment with the common people. They received their chiefs
on landing with loud huzzas, and followed them in crowds to their
respective habitations.
We passed all the winter months at Onavoora, during which we had
frequent heavy rains. Some of the storms were attended with violent
gales, and disagreeably cold weather. About the 3d of May, an
influenza made its appearance amongst the inhabitants of Oahoo, and
in two days not a well native was any where to be seen. The market,
from being well attended, was deserted. In a week, the distress was
so general and so great, that it was feared the poor people would
perish with hunger. I visited several families, not a member of
which was able to help himself or others, and all were totally
destitute of food. A great many of the people died, and amongst the
rest two chiefs, one of whom was George Tamauri, a native of the
Island of Atooi, who was educated in this country. The other was
Cahaliha, next in affinity to the king. Scarcely any of the white
people were affected. Not even those living on shore. In about ten
days, the people from the country began to make their appearance in
the market, the distress was greatly alleviated, and soon afterwards
the general good health restored. At such times of suffering, the
condition of these people is truly wretched. They have no floor to
their huts but the hard-beaten ground from which their naked bodies
are separated only by two or three thin mats, and during the rainy
season the earth becomes perfectly saturated with water. Their huts
are generally built in a very frail manner, and in a driving storm
are not proof against the rain. This, alone, is sufficient to
account for the thinly populated state of the islands, without
charging the natives with the acts of inhumanity that have been
ascribed to them by some people.
The harbour of Onavoora is formed by coral reefs, that extend upwards
of a mile from the shore. The entrance to it is narrow and somewhat
difficult. It affords water enough for a sloop of war. A pilot in
and out of the harbour, is always employed. It is very secure, being
quite land locked. The holding ground is good, and vessels may lay
in safety close along side of the beach. The water is perfectly
smooth in good weather, and the bottom and shores being nearly every
where of soft mud, a vessel might be driven upon them in a gale
without sustaining any material injury. The visits of the numerous
whale ships has made Onavoora a place of considerable trade. All of
them spend more or less money for their necessary refreshments, and
when out of repair, their disbursements are frequently very
considerable. For the supplies afforded by the natives, thousands of
dollars are annually received by them, which they give in return for
silk, cotton, calicoes, cloth, &c. Two or three stores, well stocked
with a great variety of goods, are supported in Onavoora by this
interchange of commodities; and, from the way in which the trade is
conducted, there is but little doubt that the proprietors are
rewarded with handsome profits. The sandal wood has become scarce
upon the islands, from the large quantities formerly taken away by
our traders, and does not now form a very lucrative or extensive
article of commerce. Upon this article, some of our merchants are
said to have made large sums of money in exchange for whole cargoes
of goods, with the chiefs of the Sandwich Islands. It is related of
Tamahamaha, that, after making a purchase of this kind, which he paid
for in ship loads of sandal wood, brought from the mountains with
great labour to himself and people, he has been known to load a
number of canoes secretly at night, with fine broadcloths, and take
them out to sea, where he sunk them with stones. His only reason for
it was, that the possession of them would make his chiefs and people
too luxurious and idle, and bringing sandal wood from the mountains
to pay for more, would give them employment. A doubtful policy,
certainly, if the statement be true. Be this as it may, himself and
successor have entailed upon their descendants a national debt of
several hundred thousands of dollars, now due to our merchants, which
they will not soon be able to liquidate.
On the 11th of May, after long anticipating our much wished for
departure, we got underway, and saluting the fort as we passed it
with twenty-one guns, stood out to sea and shaped our course for
Chili. Nothing material transpired from the time of our sailing
until the 7th of June, when standing along with a fresh trade, and
the night dark and squally, at 10 P.M., the lookout-ahead reported
land close aboard. We tacked and lay to for the night, to survey our
newly discovered island on the following morning. At daylight, it
bore S.S.W., about six miles from us, and appeared in three small
hummocs, covered thickly with trees and bushes, every where bounded
by a coral reef and heavy surf. We hesitated for some time whether
we should land, apprehending that it would be attended with too much
risk, merely for the gratification of curiosity; but this feeling
operated so powerfully upon us, that there was no resisting the
desire to land where no one had ever been before. Accordingly, two
boats were sent off, and watching a favourable opportunity passed
through the surf in safety, and landed on the coral bank where they
were left high and dry by the receding wave. It was on the lee side
of the island, and a coral reef stretched off about fifty or a
hundred yards from the shore, full of holes, and almost dry at low
water. In the holes we sought for fish, as at Caroline Island, but
found very few. On traversing the island, we could find no fruit or
vegetable of any description except bup. In most places it was
covered with trees and bushes of a thick growth, almost impenetrable.
In the bushes we found a great many tropical birds setting, so tame
that we could take them off of their nests with our hands, and in
getting upon the weather side of the island where there was a clear
space, we found a species of small gull, so numerous, that when they
rose from the ground at our approach, they appeared to form almost a
compact mass. The sand was literally covered with their eggs, which,
upon examination, proved to be unfit for use, with few exceptions.
The birds flew and hovered so near to us that we caught several of
them with our hands. After amusing ourselves a little while with the
novel spectacle of such numbers of birds so very tame, we collected
all the old eggs within a small space, and in less than twenty
minutes after it had been thus cleared, it was again covered with
fresh eggs by the birds that were constantly lighting. We might, in
a few hours, have loaded our boats with them. When we returned to
our boats to go on board, the tide had risen, and with it the surf
had increased to an alarming degree. At first, we held a
consultation whether we should attempt to pass through it or remain
until it should again subside with the falling of the tide; but the
day was far advanced, and the appearance of the weather such, as in
all probability would render our situation extremely painful, there
being every prospect of an increase of wind. We therefore determined
to put our fortune to the test, and were not a little discouraged
when on one of the boats attempting the surf was thrown back by the
second roller that she encountered with the utmost violence,
upsetting her, and scattering the people in different directions,
some of them escaping with their lives with the greatest difficulty.
Notwithstanding the ill success of our first attempt, we determined
on a second, rather than risk the consequences of longer delay.
Embracing a favourable opportunity where the surf appeared least
violent, we put off, and passed through it in safety without further
accident.
The island was little more than a mile long, and from a hundred yards
to a quarter of a mile wide. It was every where very low. By a
meridian observation, we placed the north-west end of it in latitude
south 21 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude by chronometer 154 degrees
54 minutes west. In compliment to the commander of our squadron in
the Pacific Ocean, we called it Hull's Island. It may be
comprehended within the group of Society Islands.