Among the most interesting pictures in the gallery is an undoubted

original of Lady Jane Grey. After seeing so many hideous, hard,

prim-looking pictures and prints of this gentle-spirited heroine, it

is consoling to trust in the genuineness of a face which has all the

sweetness and dignity we look for, and ought to find. Then, by way of

contrast, we have that most curious picture of Diana of Poitiers, once

in the Crawfurd collection: it is a small half-length; the features fair

and regular; the hair is elaborately dressed with a profusion of jewels;

but there is no drapery whatever--"force pierreries et tres peu de

linge," as Madame de Sevigne described the two Mancini.[83] Round the

head is the legend from the 42d Psalm--"Comme le cerf braie apres

le decours des eaues, ainsi brait mon ame apres toi, O Dieu," which

is certainly an extraordinary application. In the days of Diana of

Poitiers, the beautiful mistress of Henry the Second of France, it

was the court fashion to sing the Psalms of David to dance and song

tunes;[84] and the courtiers and beauties had each their favourite

psalm, which served as a kind of _devise_: this may explain the very

singular inscription on this very singular picture. Here are also the

portraits of Otway and Cowley, and of Montaigne; the last from the

Crawfurd collection.

I had nearly omitted to mention a magnificent whole-length of the Duc

de Guise--who was stabbed in the closet of Henry the Third--whose life

contains materials for ten romances and a dozen epics, and whose death

has furnished subjects for as many tragedies. And not far from him that

not less daring, and more successful chief, Oliver Cromwell: a page is

tying on his sash. There is a vulgar power and boldness about this head,

in fine contrast with the high-born, fearless, chivalrous-looking Guise.

In the library is the splendid picture of Sofonisba Angusciola, by

herself: she is touching the harpsichord, for like many others of her

craft, she excelled in music. Angelica Kauffman had nearly been an

opera-singer. The instances of great painters being also excellent

musicians are numerous; Salvator Rosa could have led an orchestra, and

Vernet could not exist without Pergolesi's piano. But I cannot recollect

an instance of a great musician by profession, who has also been a

painter: the range of faculties is generally more confined.

Rembrandt's large picture of his mother, which is, I think, the most

magnificent specimen of this master now in England, hangs over the

chimney in the same room with the Sofonisba.

The last picture I can distinctly remember is a portrait by Sir Joshua

Reynolds, with all his perfections combined in their perfection. It is

that of a beautiful Frenchwoman, an intimate friend of the last Lady

Spencer--with as much intellect, sentiment, and depth of feeling as

would have furnished out twenty ordinary heads; all harmony in the

colouring, all grace in the drawing.

Here then was food for the eye and for the memory--for sweet and bitter

fancy--for the amateur, and for the connoisseur--for antiquary, historian,

painter, and poet. Well might Horace Walpole say that the gallery at

Althorpe was "endeared to the pensive spectator." He tells us in his

letters, that when here, (about seventy years since,) he surprised the

housekeeper by "his intimate acquaintance with all the faces in the

gallery." I was amused at the thought that we caused a similar surprise

in our day. I hope his female cicerone was as civil and intelligent as

ours; as worthy to be the keeper of the pictorial treasures of Althorpe.

When we lingered and lingered, spell-bound, and apologized for making

such unconscionable demands on her patience, she replied, "that she was

flattered; that she felt affronted when any visitor hurried through the

apartments." Old Horace would have been delighted with her; and not less

with the biblical enthusiasm of a village glazier, whom we found dusting

the books in the library, and who had such a sublime reverence for old

editions, unique copies, illuminated MSS., and rare bindings, that it

was quite edifying.

* * * * *

[Illustration]

END OF VOL. II.

LONDON:

IBOTSON AND PALMER, PRINTERS, SAVOY STREET, STRAND.

* * * * *

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: In the throne-room at the Buckingham Palace the idea of

grandeur is suggested by a vile heraldic crown, stuck on the capitals of

the columns. Conceive the flagrant, the vulgar barbarity of taste!! It

cannot surely be attributed to the architect?]

[Footnote 2: There is a very pretty little edition of his lyrical poems,

rendered into the modern German by Karl Simrock, and published at Berlin

in 1833.]

[Footnote 3: See a very interesting account of Walther von der Vogelweide,

with translations of some of his poems in "The Lays of the Minnesingers,"

published in 1825.]

[Footnote 4: See a very learned and well-written article on the ancient

German and northern poetry in the Edinburgh Review, vol. 26.]

[Footnote 5: The legend of this charming saint, one of the most popular

in Germany, is but little known among us. She was the wife of a margrave

of Thuringia, who was a fierce, avaricious man, while she herself was

all made up of tenderness and melting pity. She lived with her husband

in his castle on the Wartsburg, and was accustomed to go out every

morning to distribute alms among the poor of the valley: her husband,

jealous and covetous, forbade her thus to exercise her bounty; but as

she regarded her duty to God and the poor, even as paramount to conjugal

obedience, she secretly continued her charitable offices. Her husband

encountered her one morning at sunrise, as she was leaving the castle

with a covered basket containing meat, bread, and wine, for a starving

family. He demanded, angrily, what she had in her basket! Elizabeth,

trembling, not for herself, but for her wretched proteges, replied, with

a faltering voice, that she had been gathering roses in the garden.

The fierce chieftain, not believing her, snatched off the napkin, and

Elizabeth fell on her knees.--But, behold, a miracle had been operated

in her favour!--The basket was full of roses, fresh gathered, and wet

with dew.]

[Footnote 6: See Taylor's "Historic Survey of German Poetry." Herman

was afterwards murdered by a band of conspirators, and Thusnelda, on

learning the fate of her husband, died brokenhearted.]

[Footnote 7: The notices which follow are abridged from the essay "on

Ancient German and Northern Poetry," before mentioned--from the preface

to the edition of the Nibelungen Lied, by M. Von der Hagen--and the

analysis of the poem in the Illustrations of Northern Antiquities.

My own first acquaintance with the Nibelungen Lied, I owed to an

accomplished friend, who gave me a detailed and lively analysis of the

story and characters; and certainly no child ever hung upon a tale of

ogres and fairies with more intense interest than I did upon her recital

of the adventures of the Nibelungen.]

[Footnote 8: Dietrich of Bern (i. e. Theodoric of Verona,) is the great

hero of South Germany--the King Arthur of Teutonic romance, who figures

in all the warlike lays and legends of the middle ages.]

[Footnote 9: See the Illustrations of Northern Antiquities, p. 213.]

[Footnote 10: In the altercation between the two queens, Chrimhilde

boasts of possessing these trophies, and displays them in triumph to her

mortified rival; for which indiscretion, as she afterwards complains,

"her husband was in high anger, and _beat her black and blue_." This

treatment, however, which seems to have been quite a matter of course,

does not diminish the fond idolatry of the wife,--rather increases it.]

[Footnote 11: This list will be subjoined at the end of these Sketches.]

[Footnote 12: Sofonisba Augusciola, one of the most charming of portrait

painters. She died in 1626, at the age of ninety-three.]

[Footnote 13: I regret that I omitted to note the _name_ of the artist

of this magnificent work. There is a still more admirable monument of

the same period in the church at Inspruck, the tomb of the archduke,

Ferdinand of Tyrol, consisting, I believe, of twelve colossal statues

in bronze.]

[Footnote 14: The first stone of the Valhalla was laid by the King of

Bavaria, on the 18th of October 1830.]

[Footnote 15: The Einheriar are the souls of heroes admitted into the

Valhalla.]

[Footnote 16: Daniel.]

[Footnote 17: Lithography was invented at Munich between 1795 and 1798,

for so long were repeated experiments tried before the art became useful

or general. Senefelder, the inventor, was an actor, and the son of an

actor. The first occasion of the invention was his wish to print a

little drama of his own, in some manner less expensive than the usual

method of type. The first successful experiment was the printing of some

music, published (1796) by Gleissner, one of the king of Bavaria's band:

the first drawing attempted was a vignette to a sheet of music. In the

course of his attempts to pursue and perfect his discovery, Senefelder

was reduced to such poverty, that he offered himself to enlist for a

common soldier, and, luckily, was refused. He again took heart, and,

supported through every difficulty and discouragement by his own

strong and enthusiastic mind, he at length overcame all obstacles, and

has lived to see his invention established and spread over the whole

civilized world. Hitherto, I believe, the stone used by lithographers

is found only in Bavaria, whence it is sent to every part of Europe and

America, and forms a most profitable article of commerce. The principal

quarries are at Solenholfen, on the Danube, about fifty miles from

Munich.

Senefelder has published a little memoir of the origin and progress of

the invention, in which he relates with great simplicity the hardship,

and misery, and contumely, he encountered before he could bring it into

use. He concludes with an earnest prayer, "that it may contribute to the

benefit and improvement of mankind, and that it may never be abused to

any dishonourable or immoral purpose."

If I remember rightly, a detailed history of the art was given in one of

the early numbers of the Foreign Review.]

[Footnote 18: The population of Munich is estimated at about 60,000. It

does not enter into my plan, at present, to give any detailed account

of the public institutions, whether academies, schools, hospitals, or

prisons; yet I cannot but mention the prison at Munich, which more than

pays its own expenses, instead of being a burthen to the state; the

admirable hospital for the poor, in which all who cannot find work

elsewhere, are provided with occupation; two large hospitals for the

sick poor, in which rooms and attendance are also provided for those who

do not choose to be a burthen to their friends, nor yet dependent on

charity; the orphan school; the female school, endowed by the king;

the foundling and lying-in hospitals, establishments unhappily most

_necessary_ in Munich, and certainly most admirably conducted. These,

and innumerable private societies for the assistance, the education, and

the improvement of the lower classes, ought to receive the attention of

every intelligent traveller.

There are no poor laws in operation at Munich, no mendicity societies,

no tract, and soup and blanket charities; yet pauperism, mendicity,

and starvation, are nearly unknown. For the system of regulations by

which these evils have been repressed or altogether remedied, I believe

Bavaria is indebted to the celebrated American, Count Rumford, who was

in the service of the late king, Max-Joseph, from 1790 to 1799.

Several new manufactories have lately been established, particularly

of glass and porcelain, and the latter is carried to a high degree of

perfection.]

[Footnote 19: Ida of Saxe-Meiningen, sister of the queen of England.]

[Footnote 20: It is difficult to translate this laconic proverb, because

we have not the corresponding words in English: the meaning may be

rendered--"_according to the country, so are the manners_."]

[Footnote 21: When the city was besieged by Wallenstein in 1632.]

[Footnote 22: Born at Nuremberg in 1494.]

[Footnote 23: See the admirable "Essay on the Early German and Northern

Poetry," already alluded to.]

[Footnote 24: Anthony, the present king of Saxony. He is, however, in

his dotage, being now in his eighty-fifth year.]

[Footnote 25: The description of Dresden and its environs, in Russel's

Tour in Germany, is one of the best written passages in that amusing

book--so admirably graphic and faithful, that nothing can be added to

it _as a description_, therefore I have effaced those notes which it

has rendered superfluous. It must, however, be remembered by those who

refer to Mr. Russel's work, that a revolution has taken place, by which

the king, now fallen into absolute dotage, has been removed from the

direct administration of the government, and a much more popular and

liberal tone prevails in the Estates: the two princes, nephews of the

king, whom Mr. Russel mentions as "persons of whom scarcely any body

thinks of speaking at all," have since made themselves extremely

conspicuous;--Prince Frederic has been declared regent, and is

apparently much respected and beloved; and Prince John has distinguished

himself as a speaker in the Assembly of the States, and takes the

liberal side on most occasions. A spirit of amelioration is at work in

Dresden, as elsewhere, and the ten or twelve years which have elapsed

since Mr. Russel's visit have not passed away without some salutary

changes, while more are evidently at hand.

Mr. Russel speaks of the secrecy with which the sittings of the Chambers

were then conducted: they are now public, and the debates are printed in

the Gazette at considerable length.]

[Footnote 26: Augustus II. abjured the Protestant religion in 1700, in

order to obtain the crown of Poland.]

[Footnote 27: The first tenor at Dresden in 1833.]

[Footnote 28: An opera by Franz Glazer of Berlin. The subject, which is

the well-known story of the mother who delivers her infant when carried

away by the eagle, or rather vulture of the Alps, might make a good

melodrama, but is not fit for an opera--and the music is _trainante_

and monotonous.]

[Footnote 29: Zingarelli composed his _Romeo e Giulietta_ in 1797: Bellini

produced the Capelletti at Venice in 1832, for our silver-voiced

Caradori and the contr'alto Giudita Grisi, sister of that accomplished

singer, Giulietta Grisi. Thirty-five years are an age in

the history of music. Of the two operas, Bellini's is the most effective,

from the number of the conceited pieces, without containing

a single air which can be placed in comparison with five or six

in Zingarelli's opera.]

[Footnote 30: Lord Byron.]

[Footnote 31: "Tieck," says Carlyle, "is a poet _born_ as well as

made.--He is no mere observist and compiler, rendering back to us,

with additions or subtractions, the beauty which existing things have

of themselves presented to him; but a true Maker, to whom the actual

and external is but the _excitement_ for ideal creations, representing

and ennobling its effects. His feeling or knowledge, his love or scorn,

his gay humour or solemn earnestness; all the riches of his inward

world are pervaded and mastered by the living energy of the soul which

possesses them, and their finer essence is wafted to us in his poetry,

like Arabian odours, on the wings of the wind. But this may be said of

all true poets; and each is distinguished from all, by his individual

characteristics. Among Tieck's, one of the most remarkable is his

combination of so many gifts, in such full and simple harmony. His

ridicule does not obstruct his adoration; his gay southern fancy

lives in union with a northern heart; with the moods of a longing and

impassioned spirit, he seems deeply conversant; and a still imagination,

in the highest sense of that word, reigns over all his poetic world."]

[Footnote 32: Vide Shelley's Epipsychidion.]

[Footnote 33: Mr. Russel is quite right in his observation that the

Correggios are hung too near together: the fact is, that in the Dresden

gallery, the pictures are not well hung, nor well arranged; there is too

little light in the inner gallery, and too much in the outer gallery.

Lastly, the numbers are so confused that I found the catalogue of little

use. A new arrangement and a new catalogue, by Professor Matthai, are in

contemplation.]

[Footnote 34: Spence.]

[Footnote 35: Lanzi says, that many of the works of Lavinia Fontana

might easily pass for those of Guido;--her best works are at Bologna.

She died in 1614.]

[Footnote 36: At Althorpe.]

[Footnote 37: The Miss Sharpes were at Dresden while I was there,

and their names and some of their works were fresh in my mind and eye

when I wrote the above; but I think it fair to add, that I had not the

opportunity I could have wished of cultivating their acquaintance. These

three sisters, all so talented, and so inseparable,--all artists, and

bound together in affectionate communion of hearts and interests,

reminded me of the Sofonisba and her sisters.]

[Footnote 38: She is the "Julie" celebrated in some of Goethe's minor

poems.]

[Footnote 39: Since this was written, in November 1833, Retzsch has sent

over to England a series of these _Fancies_ for publication.]

[Footnote 40: We have among us a young German painter, (Theodor von

Holst,) who, uniting the exuberant enthusiasm and rich imagination of

his country, with a just appreciation of the style of English art, is

likely to achieve great things.]

[Footnote 41: "Belier! mon ami! commence par le commencement!"--_Contes

de Hamilton._]

[Footnote 42: A manor situated on the borders of Derbyshire, between

Chesterfield and Mansfield.]

[Footnote 43: The Cavendishes were originally of Suffolk. Whether this

William Cavendish was the same who was gentleman usher and secretary to

Cardinal Wolsey, is, I believe, a disputed point.]

[Footnote 44: Bishop Kennel's memoirs of the family of Cavendish.]

[Footnote 45: Lodge's Illustrations of British History.]

[Footnote 46: Scott's Memoir of Sir Ralph Sadler.]

[Footnote 47: Lodge's "Illustrations."]

[Footnote 48: This celebrated letter is yet preserved, and well known

to historians and antiquarians. It is sufficient to say that scarce any

part of it would bear transcribing.]

[Footnote 49: See two of her letters in Sir Henry Ellis's Collection.]

[Footnote 50: See some letters in Ellis's Collection, vol. ii. series 1,

which show with what constant jealousy Lady Shrewsbury and her charge

were watched by the court.]

[Footnote 51: In All Hallows, in Derby. After leaving Hardwicke, I went,

of course, to pay my respects to it. It is a vast and gorgeous shrine of

many coloured marbles, covered with painting, gilding, emblazonments,

and inscriptions, within which the lady lies at full length in a golden

ruff, and a most sumptuous farthingale.]

[Footnote 52: As the measurements are interesting from this fact, I took

care to note them exactly; as follows:--length 55 ft. 6 inches; breadth

30 ft. 6 inches; height 24 ft. 6 inches.]

[Footnote 53: Horace Walpole, as an antiquarian, should have known that

Mary was never kept _there_.]

[Footnote 54: It had formerly been richly painted, and must then have had

an effect superior to tapestry; the colours are still visible here

and there.]

[Footnote 55: Mary's own account of her occupations displays the natural

elegance of her mind. "I asked her grace, since the weather did cut off

all exercises abroad, how she passed her time within? She sayd that all

day she wrought with her needle, and that the diversitie of the colours

made the work appear less tedious, and that she continued at it till

pain made her to give o'er: and with that laid her hand on her left

side, and complayned of an old grief newly increased there. Upon this

occasion she, the Scottish queen, with the agreeable and lively wit

natural to her, entered into a pretty disputable comparison between

carving, painting, and working with the needle, affirming painting, in

her opinion, for the most commendable quality."--_Letter of Nicholas

White to Cecil._]

[Footnote 56: I was as much delighted by these singular fire-screens

as Horace himself could have been; they are about seven feet high. The

yellow velvet suspended from the bar is embossed with black velvet, and

intermingled with embroidery of various colours and gold--something

like a Persian carpet--but most dazzling and gorgeous in the effect.

I believe there is nothing like them any where.]

[Footnote 57: Now replaced by the family portraits brought from

Chatsworth.]

[Footnote 58: Margaret Cavendish, wife of the first Duke of Newcastle.]

[Footnote 59: Anecdotes of Painting. Reigns of Elizabeth and James I.]

[Footnote 60: Dante. Inferno, Canto 28.]

[Footnote 61: Life of Johnson, vol. ii. p. 144. Boswell asked, "Are you

of that opinion as to the portraits of ancestors one has never seen?"

JOHNSON. "It then becomes of still _more_ consequence that they should

be like."]

[Footnote 62: This picture and the next are said to be by Richard

Stevens, of whom there is some account in Walpole, (Anecdotes of

Painting.) Mary also sat to Hilliard and to Zucchero. The lovely picture

by Zucchero is at Chiswick. There is another small head of her at

Hardwicke, said to have been painted in France, in a cap and feather.

The turn of the head is airy and graceful. As to the features, they have

been so marred by some _soi-disant_ restorer, it is difficult to say

what they may have been originally.]

[Footnote 63: Waller's lines on Lady Rich.]

[Footnote 64: William, sixth Duke of Devonshire.]

[Footnote 65: "Lady Dorothy Savile, daughter of the Marquis of Halifax:

she had no less attachment to the arts than her husband; she drew in

crayons, and succeeded admirably in likenesses, but working with too

much rapidity, did not do justice to her genius; she had an uncommon

talent too for caricature."--_Anecdotes of Painting._]

[Footnote 66: He was a monster; and no wife of the coarsest plebeian

profligate could have suffered more than did this lovely, amiable being,

of the highest blood and greatest fortune in England. "She was," says

the affecting inscription on her picture at Chiswick, "the comfort and

joy of her parents, the delight of all who knew her angelic temper, and

the admiration of all who saw her beauty. She was married October 10th,

1741, and delivered by death from misery, May 2nd, 1742.

But how did it happen that from a condition like this, there was no

release but by _death_?--See Horace Walpole's Correspondence to Sir

Horace Mann, vol. i. p. 328.]

[Footnote 67: I was much struck with the inscription on a stone tablet,

in a fine old wood near the house: "This wood was planted by Sir William

Spencer, Knighte of the Bathe, in the year of our Lord 1624:"--on the

other side, "Up and bee doing, and God will prosper." It is mentioned in

Evelyn's "Sylva."]

[Footnote 68: See the accounts of Sir John Spencer, in Collins's

Peerage, and prefixed to Dibdin's "AEdes Althorpianae."]

[Footnote 69: Henry, first Earl of Sunderland.]

[Footnote 70: This Lord Sunderland not only changed his party and his

opinions, but his religion, with every breath that blew from the court.]

[Footnote 71: Horace Walpole's Correspondence, vol. ii. p. 227.]

[Footnote 72: Anne Brudenel.]

[Footnote 73: See Pepys's Diary.]

[Footnote 74: I was told that a female servant of the family was so

terrified by this picture that she could never be prevailed on to pass

through the door near which it hangs, but made a circuit of several

rooms to avoid it.]

[Footnote 75: She is supposed to have been poisoned by her husband, at

the instigation of the Chevalier de Lorraine.]

[Footnote 76: Elizabeth Brooke, poisoned at the age of twenty.]

[Footnote 77: See the scene between Beck Marshall and Nell Gwyn,

in "Pepys."]

[Footnote 78: Walpole.]

[Footnote 79: The gay, gallant St. Evremond, besides being naturally

ugly, had a wen between his eye-brows. There is a fine picture of him

and Hortense as Vertumnus and Pomona, in the Stafford gallery.]

Visits and Sketches at Home and Abroad, Vol. 2 (of 3) With Tales and Miscellanies Now First Collected · 第 12 / 13 段