This was a day, an hour, a scene, with all its associations, its

quietness and beauty, "felt in the blood, and felt along the heart."

All worldly cares and pains were laid asleep; while memory, fancy, and

feeling waked. Althorpe does not frown upon us in the gloom of remote

antiquity; it has not the warlike glories of some of the baronial

residences of our old nobility; it is not built like a watch-tower

on a hill, to lord it over feudal vassals; it is not bristled with

battlements and turrets. It stands in a valley, with the gradual hills

undulating round it, clothed with rich woods. It has altogether a look

of compactness and comfort, without pretension, which, with the pastoral

beauty of the landscape, and low situation, recall the ancient vocation

of the family, whose grandeur was first founded, like that of the

patriarchs of old, on the multitude of their flocks and herds.[68] It

was in the reign of Henry the Eighth that Althorpe became the principal

seat of the Spencers, and no place of the same date can boast so many

delightful, romantic, and historical associations. There is Spenser the

poet, "high-priest of all the Muses' mysteries," who modestly claimed,

as an honour, his relationship to those Spencers who now, with a just

pride, boast of _him_, and deem his Faery Queen "the brightest jewel in

their coronet;" and the beautiful Alice Spencer, countess of Derby, who

was celebrated in early youth by her poet-cousin, and for whom Milton,

in her old age, wrote his "Arcades." At Althorpe, in 1603, the queen and

son of James the First were, on their arrival in England, nobly

entertained with a masque, written for the occasion by Ben Jonson, in

which the young ladies and nobles of the country enacted nymphs and

fairies, satyrs and hunters, and danced to the sound of "excellent soft

music," their scenery the natural woods, their stage the green lawn,

their canopy the summer sky. What poetical picturesque hospitality!

In these days it would have been a dinner, with French cooks and

confectioners express from London to dress it. Here lived Waller's

famous Sacharissa, the first Lady Sunderland--so beautiful and good,

so interesting in herself, she needed not his wit nor his poetry to

enshrine her. Here she parted from her young husband,[69] when he left

her to join the king in the field; and here, a few months after, she

received the news of his death in the battle of Newbury, and saw her

happiness wrecked at the age of three-and-twenty. Here plotted her

distinguished son, that Proteus of politics, the second Lord Sunderland.

Charles the First was playing at bowls on the green at Althorpe, when

Colonel Joyce's detachment surprised him, and carried him off to

imprisonment and to death. Here the excellent and accomplished Evelyn

used to meditate in the "noble gallerie," and in the "ample gardens," of

which he has left us an admiring and admirable description, which would

be as suitable today as it was a hundred and fifty years ago, with the

single exception of the great proprietor, deservedly far more honoured

in this generation than was his apostate time-serving ancestor, the

Lord Sunderland of Evelyn's day.[70] When the Spencers were divided,

the eldest branch of the family becoming Dukes of Marlborough and the

youngest Earls Spencer--if the former inherited glory, Blenheim, and

poverty--to the latter have belonged more true and more substantial

distinctions: for the last three generations the Spencers have been

remarked for talents, for benevolence, for constancy, for love of

literature, and patronage of the fine arts.

The house retains the form described by Evelyn--that of a half H:

a slight irregularity is caused by the new gothic room, built by

the present earl, to contain part of his magnificent library, which,

like the statue in the Castle of Otranto, had grown "too big for what

contained it." We entered by a central door the large and lofty hall, or

vestibule, hung round with pictures of fox-chases and those who figured

in them, famous hunters, quadruped and biped, all as large as life,

spread over as much canvass as would make a mainsail for a man-of-war.

These huge perpetrations are of the time of Jack Spencer, a noted Nimrod

in his day; and are very fine, as we were told, but they did not

interest me. I had caught a glimpse of the superb staircase, hung round

with pictures above and below, and not the less interesting as having

been erected by Sacharissa herself during the few years she was mistress

of Althorpe. A face looked at us from over an opposite door, which there

was no resisting. Does the reader remember Horace Walpole's pleasant

description of a party of _seers_ posting through the apartments of a

show-place? "They come; ask what such a room is called?--write it down;

admire a lobster or cabbage in a Dutch market piece; dispute whether the

last room was green or purple; and then hurry to the inn, for fear the

fish should be over-dressed."[71] We were not such a party; but with

imaginations ready primed to take fire, and memories enriched with all

the associations the place could suggest, to us every portrait was a

history. The orthodox style of seeing the house is to turn to the left,

and view the ground-floor apartments first; but the face I have mentioned

seemed to beckon me straight-forward, and I could not choose but obey

the invitation: it was that of Lady Bridgewater, the loveliest of the

four lovely daughters of the Duke of Marlborough: she had the misfortune

to be painted by Jervas, and the good fortune to be celebrated by Pope

as the "tender sister, daughter, friend, and wife;" and again--

"Thence Beauty, waking, all her forms supplies--

An angel's sweetness--or Bridgewater's eyes."

Jervas was supposed to have been presumptuously and desperately in love

with this beautiful woman, who died at the age of five-and-twenty: hence

Pope has taken the liberty--by a poetical licence, no doubt--to call

her, in his Epistle to Jervas, "_thy_ Bridgewater." Two of her fair

sisters, the Duchess of Montagu and Lady Godolphin, hung near her; and

above, her fairer sister, Lady Sunderland. Ascending the magnificent

staircase, a hundred faces look down upon us, in a hundred different

varieties of expression, in a hundred different costumes. Here are Queen

Anne and Sarah Duchess of Marlborough placed amicably side by side,

as in the days of their romantic friendship, when they conversed and

corresponded as Mrs. Morley and Mrs. Freeman: the beauty, the intellect,

the spirit, are all on the side of the imperious duchess; the poor queen

looks like what she was, a good-natured fool. On the left is the cunning

abigail, who supplanted the duchess in the favour of Queen Anne--Mrs.

Masham. Proceeding along the gallery, we are met by the portrait of that

angel-devil, Lady Shrewsbury,[72] whose exquisite beauty fascinates at

once and shocks the eye like the gorgeous colours of an adder. I believe

the story of her holding the Duke of Buckingham's horse while he shot

her husband in a duel, has been disputed; but her attempt to assassinate

Killegrew, while she sat by in her carriage,[73] is too true. So far had

her depravities unsexed her!

----"Lorsque la vertu, avec peine abjuree,

Nous fait voir une femme a ses fureurs livree,

S'irritant par l'effort que ce pas a coute,

Son ame avec plus d'art a plus de cruaute."

She was even less famous for the number of her lovers, than the

catastrophes of which she was the cause.

"Had ever nymph such reason to be glad?

Two in a duel fell, and one ran mad."

Not two, but half a dozen fell in duels; and if her lovers "ran mad,"

it was in despite, not in despair. Lady Shrewsbury is past jesting or

satire; and after a first involuntary pause of admiration before her

matchless beauty, we turn away with horror. For the rest of the

portraits on this vast staircase, it would take a volume to give a

_catalogue raisonnee_ of them. We pass, then, into a corridor hung with

two large and very mediocre landscapes, representing Tivoli and Terni.

Any attempt, even the best, to paint a cataract _must_ be abortive. How

render to the fancy the two grandest of its features--sound and motion?

the thunder and the tumult of the headlong waters? We will pass on to

the gallery, and lose ourselves in its enchantments.

Where shall we begin?--Any where. Throw away the catalogue: all are old

acquaintances. We are tempted to speak to them, and they look as if they

could curtsey to us. The very walls breathe around us. What Vandykes--what

Lelys--what Sir Joshuas! what a congregation of all that is beauteous

and noble!--what Spencers, Sydneys, Digbys, Russells, Cavendishes,

and Churchills!--O what a scene to moralize, to philosophize, to

sentimentalize in!--what histories in those eyes, that look, yet see

not!--what sermons on those lips, that all but speak; I would rather

reflect in a picture-gallery, than elegize in a churchyard. The "poca

polvere che nulla sente," can only tell us we must die; these, with

a more useful and deep-felt morality, tell us how to live.

Yet I cannot say I felt thus pensive and serious the first time I

looked round the gallery at Althorpe. Curiosity, excitement, interest,

admiration--a crowd of quick successive images and recollections

fleeting across the memory--left me no time to think. I remember being

startled, the moment I entered, by a most extraordinary picture,--the

second Prince of Orange, and his preceptor Katts, by Flinck. The eyes of

the latter are really shockingly alive; they stare out of the canvass,

and glitter and fascinate like those of a serpent. If I had been a Roman

Catholic, I should have crossed myself, as I looked at them, to shield

me from their evil and supernatural expression.[74] The picture of the

two Sforzas, Maximilian and his brother Francis, by Albert Durer, is

quite a curiosity; and so is another, by Holbein, near it, containing

the portraits of Henry the Eighth, his daughter Mary, and his jester,

Will Somers,--all full of individuality and truth. The expression in

Mary's face, at once saturnine, discontented and vulgar, is especially

full of character. These last three pictures are curious and valuable as

specimens of art; but they are not pleasing. We turn to the matchless

Vandykes, at once admirable as paintings, and yet more interesting as

portraits. A full-length of his master and friend, Rubens, dressed in

black, is magnificent; the attitude particularly graceful. Near the

centre of the gallery is the charming full-length of Queen Henrietta

Maria, a well-known and celebrated picture. She is dressed in white

satin, and stands near a table on which is a vase of white roses, and,

more in the shade, her regal crown. Nothing can be in finer taste than

the contrast between the rich, various, but subdued colours of the

carpet and background, and the delicate, and harmonious, and brilliant

tints which throw out the figure. None of the pictures I had hitherto

seen of Henrietta, either in the king's private collection, or at

Windsor, do justice to the sparkling grace of her figure, or the

vivacity and beauty of her eyes, so celebrated by all the contemporary

poets. Waller, for instance:--

"Could Nature then no private woman grace,

Whom we might dare to love, with such a face,

Such a complexion, and so radiant eyes,

Such lovely motion, and such sharp replies?"

Davenant styles her, very beautifully, "The rich-eyed darling of a

monarch's breast." Lord Holland, in the description he sent from Paris,

dwells on the charm of her eyes, her smile, and her graceful figure,

though he admits her to be rather _petite_; and if the poet and the

courtier be distrusted, we have the authority of the puritanic Sir

Symond d'Ewes, who allows the influence of her "excellent and sparkling

black eyes." Henrietta could be very seductive, and had all the French

grace of manner; but, as is well known, she could play the virago, "and

cast such a scowl, as frightened all the lords and ladies in waiting."

Too much importance is attached to her character and her influence over

her husband, in the histories of that time. She was a fascinating, but

a superficial and volatile Frenchwoman. With all her feminine love

of sway, she had not sufficient energy to govern; and with all her

disposition to intrigue, she never had discretion enough to keep her

own or the king's secrets. When she rushed through a storm of bullets

to save a favourite lap-dog; or when, amid the shrieks and entreaties

of her terrified attendants, she commanded the captain of her vessel to

"blow up the ship rather than strike to the Parliamentarian,"--it was

more the spirit and wilfulness of a woman, who, with all her faults,

had the blood of Henri Quatre in her veins, than the mental energy

and resolute fortitude of a heroine. Near her hangs her daughter, who

inherited her grace, her beauty, her petulance,--the unhappy Henriette

d'Orleans,[75] fair, radiant, and lively, with a profusion of beautiful

hair; it is impossible to look from the mother to the daughter, without

remembering the scene in Retz's memoirs, when the queen said to him, in

excuse for her daughter's absence, "My poor Henrietta is obliged to lie

in bed, for I have no wood to make a fire for her--et la pauvre enfant

etait transie de froid."

Another picture by Vandyke hangs at the top of the room, one of the

grandest and most spirited of his productions. It represents William,

the first Duke of Bedford, the father of Lord William Russell, when

young, and his brother-in-law, the famous (and infamous) Digby, Earl

of Bristol. How admirably Vandyke has caught the characters of the two

men!--the fine commanding form of the duke, as he steps forward, the

frank, open countenance, expressive of all that is good and noble, speak

him what he was--not less than that of Digby, which, though eminently

handsome, has not one elevated or amiable trait in the countenance; the

drapery, background, and more especially the hands, are magnificently

painted. On one side of this superb picture, hangs the present Earl

Spencer when a youth; and on the other, his sister, Georgiana Duchess

of Devonshire, at the age of eighteen, looking all life and high-born

loveliness, and reminding one of Coleridge's beautiful lines to her:--

"Light as a dream your days their circlets ran

From all that teaches brotherhood to man,

Far, far removed! from want, from grief, from fear!

Obedient music lull'd your infant ear;

Obedient praises soothed your infant heart;

Emblazonments and old ancestral crests,

With many a bright obtrusive form of art,

Detain'd your eye from nature. Stately vests,

That veiling strove to deck your charms divine,

Rich viands and the pleasurable wine,

Were yours unearn'd by toil."----

And he thus beautifully alludes to her maternal character; for this

accomplished woman set the example to the highest ranks, of nursing

her own children:--

"You were a mother! at your bosom fed

The babes that loved you. You, with laughing eye,

Each twilight thought, each nascent feeling read,

Which you yourself created."

Alas, that such a beginning should have such an end!

Both these are whole-lengths, by Sir Joshua Reynolds: the middle tints

are a little flown, else they were perfect; they suffer by being hung

near the glowing yet mellowed tints of Vandyke.

We have here a whole bevy of the heroines of De Grammont, delightful

to those who have what Walpole used to call the "De Grammont madness"

upon them. Here is that beautiful, audacious termagant, Castlemaine,

very like her picture at Windsor, and with the same characteristic bit

of storm gleaming in the background.--Lady Denham,[76] the wife of

the poet, Sir John Denham, and niece of that Lord Bristol who figures

in Vandyke's picture above mentioned--a lovely creature, and a sweet

picture.--Louise de Querouaille, Duchess of Portsmouth, who so long

ruled the heart and councils of Charles the Second, in Lely's finest

style; the face has a look of blooming innocence, soon exchanged

for coarseness and arrogance.--The indolent, alluring Middleton,

looking from under her sleepy eyelids, "trop coquette pour rebuter

personne."--"La Belle Hamilton," the lovely prize of the volatile De

Grammont; very like her portrait at Windsor, with the same finely formed

bust and compressed ruby lips, but with an expression more vivacious and

saucy, and less elevated.--Two portraits of Nell Gwyn, with the fair

brown air and small bright eyes they ought to have; _au reste_, with

such prim, sanctified mouths, and dressed with such elaborate decency,

that instead of reminding us of the "parole sciolte d'ogni freno, risi,

vezzi, giuochi"--they are more like Beck Marshall, the puritan's

daughter, on her good behaviour.[77]

Here is that extraordinary woman Hortense Mancini, Duchess of Mazarin,

the fame of whose beauty and gallantries filled all Europe, and once the

intended wife of Charles the Second, though she afterwards intrigued in

vain for the less (or more) eligible post of _maitresse en titre_. What

an extraordinary, wild, perverted, good-for-nothing, yet interesting set

of women, were those four Mancini sisters! all victims, more or less, to

the pride, policy, or avarice, of their cardinal uncle; all gifted by

nature with the fervid Italian blood and the plotting Italian brain; all

really _aventurieres_, while they figured as duchesses and princesses.

They wore their coronets and ermine as strolling players wear their

robes of state--with a sort of picturesque awkwardness--and they proved

rather too scanty to cover a multitude of sins.

This head of Hortense Mancini, as Cleopatra dissolving the pearl, is the

most spirited, but the least beautiful portrait I have seen of her. An

appropriate pendant on the opposite side is her lover, philosopher, and

eulogist, the witty St. Evremond--Grammont's "Caton de Normandie;" but

instead of looking like a good-natured epicurean, a man "who thought as

he liked, and liked what he thought,"[78] his nose is here wrinkled up

into an expression of the most supercilious scorn, adding to his native

ugliness.[79] Both these are by Kneller. Farther on, is another of

Charles's beauties, whose _sagesse_ has never been disputed--Elizabeth

Wriothesley, Countess of Northumberland, the sister of that half saint,

half heroine, and _all_ woman--Lady Russell.

There is also a lovely picture of that magnificent brunette, Miss Bagot.

"Elle avait," says Hamilton, "ce teint rembruni qui plait tant quand

il plait." She married Berkeley Lord Falmouth, a man who, though

unprincipled, seems to have loved her; at least, was not long enough

her husband to forget to be her lover: he was killed, shortly after his

marriage, in the battle of Southwold-bay. This is assuredly one of the

most splendid pictures Lely ever painted; and it is, besides, full of

character and interest. She holds a cannon-ball in her lap, (only an

airy emblematical cannon-ball, for she poises it like a feather,) and

the countenance is touched with a sweet expression of melancholy: hence

it is plain that she sat for it soon after the death of her first

husband, and before her marriage with the witty Earl of Dorset.--Near

her hangs another fair piece of witchcraft, "La Belle Jennings," who in

her day played with hearts as if they had been billiard balls; and no

wonder, considering what _things_ she had to deal with:[80] there was

a great difference between her vivacity and that of her vivacious

sister, the Duchess of Marlborough.--Old Sarah hangs near her. One

would think that Kneller, in spite, had watched the moment to take a

characteristic likeness, and catch, not the Cynthia, but the Fury of

the minute; as for instance, when she cut off her luxuriant tresses, so

worshipped by her husband, and flung them in his face; for so she tosses

back her disdainful head, and curls her lip like an insolent, pouting,

spoiled, grown-up baby. The life of this woman is as fine a lesson on

the emptiness of all worldly advantages, boundless wealth, power, fame,

beauty, wit, as ever was set forth by moralist or divine.

"By spirit robb'd of power--by warmth, of friends--

By wealth, of followers! without one distress,

Sick of herself through very selfishness."[81]

And yet I suspect that the Duchess of Marlborough has never met with

justice. History knows her only as Marlborough's wife, an intriguing

dame d'honneur, and a cast-off favourite. Vituperated by Swift,

satirized by Pope, ridiculed by Walpole--what angel could have stood

such bedaubing, and from such pens?

"O she has fallen into a pit of ink!"

But glorious talents she had, strength of mind, generosity, the power to

feel and inspire the strongest attachment,--and all these qualities were

degraded, or rendered useless, by _temper_! Her avarice was not the love

of money for its own sake, but the love of power; and her bitter contempt

for "knaves and fools" may be excused, if not justified. Imagine such

a woman as the Duchess of Marlborough out-faced, out-plotted by that

crowned cypher, that sceptred commonplace, queen Anne! It should seem

that the constant habit of being forced to serve, outwardly, where she

really ruled,--the consciousness of her own brilliant and powerful

faculties brought into immediate hourly comparison with the confined

trifling understanding of her mistress, a disdain of her own forced

hypocrisy, and a perception of the heartless baseness of the courtiers

around her, disgusting to a mind naturally high-toned, produced at

length that extreme of bitterness and insolence which made her so often

"an embodied storm." She was always a termagant--but of a very different

description from the vulgar Castlemaine.

Though the picture of Colonel Russell, by Dobson, is really fine

as a portrait, the recollection of the scene between him and Miss

Hamilton[82]--his love of dancing, to prove he was not old and

asthmatical,--and his attachment to his "_chapeau pointu_," make it

impossible to look at him without a smile--but a good-humoured smile,

such as his lovely mistress gave him when she rejected him with so

much politeness.--Arabella Churchill, the sister of the great Duke of

Marlborough, and mistress of the Duke of York, has been better treated

by the painter than by Hamilton; instead of "La grande creature, pale et

decharnee," she appears here a very lovely woman. But enough of these

equivocal ladies. No--before we leave them, there are yet two to be

noticed, more equivocal, more interesting, and more extraordinary than

all the rest put together--Bianca di Capello, who, from a washerwoman,

became Grand Duchess of Florence, with less beauty than I should have

expected, but as much _countenance_; and the beautiful, but appalling

picture of Venitia Digby, painted after she was dead, by Vandyke: she

was found one morning sitting up in her bed, leaning her head on her

hand, and lifeless; and thus she is painted. Notwithstanding the ease

and grace of the attitude, and the delicacy of the features, there is

no mistaking this for slumber: a heavier hand has pressed upon those

eyelids, which will never more open to the light: there is a leaden

lifelessness about them, too shockingly true and real--

"It thrills us with mortality,

And curdles to the gazer's heart."

Her picture at Windsor is the most perfectly beautiful and impressive

female portrait I ever saw. How have I longed, when gazing at it, to

conjure her out of her frame, and bid her reveal the secret of her

mysterious life and death!--Nearly opposite to the dead Venitia, in

strange contrast, hangs her husband, who loved her to madness, or was

mad before he married her, in the very prime of life and youth. This

picture, by Cornelius Jansen, is as fine as any thing of Vandyke's: the

character expresses more of intellectual power and physical strength,

than of that elegance of face and form we should have looked for in

such a fanciful being as Sir Kenelm Digby: he looks more like one of

the Athletae than a poet, a metaphysician, and a "squire of dames."

There are three pictures of Waller's famed Sacharissa, the first Lady

Sunderland: one in a hat, at the age of fifteen or sixteen, gay and

blooming; the second, far more interesting, was painted about the

time of her marriage with the young Earl of Sunderland, or shortly

after--very sweet and lady-like. I should say that the high-breeding

of the face and air was more conspicuous than the beauty; the neck and

hands exquisite. Both these are Vandyke's. A third picture represents

her about the time of her second marriage: the expression wholly

changed--cold, sad, faded, but pretty still: one might fancy her

contemplating, with a sick heart, the portrait of Lord Sunderland, the

lover and husband of her early youth, who hangs on the opposite side of

the gallery, in complete armour: he fell in the same battle with Lord

Falkland, at the age of three-and-twenty. The brother of Sacharissa,

the famous Algernon Sidney, is suspended near her; a fine head, full of

contemplation and power.

Visits and Sketches at Home and Abroad, Vol. 2 (of 3) With Tales and Miscellanies Now First Collected · 第 11 / 13 段