Stay at Zagōzhi — Presents sent to the Chiefs of Rabba — An old but
troublesome acquaintance — Presents from the Kings of Nouffie and Rabba
to the Travellers — Importunities of the King’s messengers — An Arab
merchant — Policy of the Falátah Chief, Mallam Dendo, in securing the
possession of his conquests — Former Expedition of the Falátahs against
Funda — Rabba market — The King of Rabba discontented with his present —
Consternation of the Travellers — Park’s tobe sent to him — Joy of the
King on receiving it — Permission to proceed — Treacherous conduct of
the King of Nouffie — The King of Rabba’s answer — Conversation among
the Hàussa merchants — Mallam Dendo the former King of Rabba — His
character — Rabba market — Island of Zagōzhi — The islanders expert
canoemen — Manufactures of Zagōzhi — Promise of a canoe.
_Friday, October 8th._—Mallam Dendo, the cousin of Bello, we find is
still living, but in a very old and feeble condition. He is besides
nearly blind, and thinks he has not many more years to live. Being a
cautious, peaceful old man, his chief concern is to establish his son as
his successor, and fearing that there might be some dispute about it
after his death, has already given up to him the reins of government.
The usual form on these occasions will be observed, and is to take place
on the first day of the new moon. The son is to ride through all the
streets of the town on his father’s white horse, preceded by all the
principal people of Rabba, attended by trumpeters, &c., and thus
proclaimed king.
Early in the morning, the messengers from the chiefs mentioned yesterday
arrived, bringing with them two fine sheep and a great quantity of rice.
They were accompanied by a messenger from the general, a Bornou man,
with another sheep. We are obliged to accept of this latter much against
our inclination, for it will cost us ten times its value, but it is a
treat that we have not had since we left Yàoorie. It appears that we
shall be required to give presents to nine persons before we shall get
away from this place.
Having prepared the presents, I collected the messengers and laid out
before each of them those that were intended for their masters; they
expressed themselves pleased with them, and assured us that their
masters would be also. In order to make them some reward, and secure
their good will, I gave something to each, and dismissed them. We also
sent away Mohamed, his countryman and associate, the Nouffie guide, who
had accompanied us hither all the way from Boossà. The presents we have
made, consist of a handsome looking-glass, with a gilt frame, a pair of
silver bracelets; a snuff-box, tobacco-pipe, knife, razor, two pair of
scissors, four new shillings, and a number of books on natural history,
with plates. Besides these, we sent the King of Nouffie a pocket
compass, and the Prince of Rabba a camera obscura, desiring each of the
messengers to inform their sovereigns that the latter articles were
invaluable, but that owing to the length of our journey, and the few
things which were left us in consequence, we were compelled to part with
them—only, however, till such time as we should return to the country
again, when we hoped they would be given back to us, for a handsome
present which we should bring for the purpose. Mohamed and the Falàtah
messenger promised to return to Zagōzhi in a couple of days; but the
Nouffie guide, a surly, ill-favoured, and dissatisfied man, has no wish
to see us again, and therefore he will remain at home. The old ‘King of
the Dark Water,’ and after him several of his people paid us a visit to-
day, bringing with them an enormous quantity of bits of meat and pounded
yam, boiled or stewed in palm oil, and abundance of less delicate
provisions; and strong beer sufficient for a regiment of soldiers! A
Hàussa interpreter followed in his train, so that we had no difficulty
in understanding each other; but those who subsequently visited our
dwelling were not quite so fortunate, and we could not comprehend a
single word which they uttered. Having brought their offering of
provisions and beer in huge pots and calabashes, and laid it at our
feet, they wished very much to enter into conversation with us, and were
much confused and disconcerted at our ignorance of the Nouffie language,
and our apparent dulness of comprehension; at first, they stared at us
in vacant astonishment, then looked at each other very cunningly, and
afterwards looked into our faces again. Finding at length that either we
could not, or would not, understand their words and gestures, they burst
into a loud laugh and went away, leaving their pots and calabashes
behind them. These men were extremely well dressed, and respectable in
their appearance.
_Saturday, October 9th._—This morning we were visited by two young men,
Arabs from Rabba, who had come, they said, purposely and solely to pay
their respects; but in reality, the object of their coming was very
different from this, as shortly afterwards appeared. On their entrance
into the yard of our hut, one of them, a little, short, disagreeable-
looking man, uttering a sudden exclamation of joy, sprang forward, and
clasped me with violence to his breast, kissing my shoulder, hands,
head, cheeks, and beard with much eagerness, agreeably to the custom of
his countrymen on such occasions, and also of the Israelites, as well as
many other eastern nations; and having done this, he next proceeded to
embrace my brother in the same rough hasty manner, but his compliments
were equally as unexpected as they were unpleasant. The Arab, as may be
supposed, was very eager to claim acquaintance with me, and to bring to
my memory certain scenes which had taken place on my former journey
through Hàussa. Having in some degree recovered from my surprise at his
salutation, on looking at him more attentively, I recognized in him the
very same individual that had been employed by Captain Clapperton, whom
he had abused and cheated, and who was subsequently engaged by myself as
guide from Kano. He is the person also that decamped with Captain
Pearce’s sword, and a large sum of money in cowries, when I sent him
back to Kano for the tent-poles, which he had forgotten till after he
had been several miles on his journey, and since which time I had not
seen him till to-day. His appearance is somewhat uncouth and remarkable;
his figure is awkward and uncommonly diminutive; he has a most
forbidding and intolerable squint; his mouth is turned awry; and he has
a huge and unnatural excrescence jutting out from his chin, which adds
not a little to the deformity of his countenance and appearance.
Therefore it was not very pleasant to be embraced, and almost hugged to
death, by such a man as this. His companion is a pale, handsome, and
agreeable youth, and is different from the other; in our presence his
behaviour was decent, and his manners rather timorous and reserved; and
when the villany of his associate was exposed, he felt more abashed of
the two. My brother instantly accused the fellow of his former
infidelity, and told him he was surprised that he could have the
impudence to visit and salute him in the manner he had done, after what
had transpired between them. Instead of expressing his sorrow and
contrition, the Arab made light of his offence, and endeavoured to laugh
off the impression of it altogether; and then in the most abject manner
begged everything he saw with so much importunity and selfishness, that
we were out of all temper with the scoundrel, and I turned him out of
the hut in disgust. However, he could not believe it possible that we
were in earnest with him, and waited outside the door a long time,
anxiously expecting an invitation to come in again. ‘O, it must be all
in sport,’ said he; but at last we threatened to shoot him if he did not
go about his business, and being apprehensive that we should put our
threats into execution, he ran off as fast as he could. Before his
dismissal, we gave his companion a few needles, and he took his leave in
peace. The fellow’s excuse for leaving me in the manner he did, was,
that Al Hadjee Salah, the late Captain Clapperton’s agent, had persuaded
him, saying that I was going to travel among Caffres who knew not Allah,
and who would therefore murder him. He was frightened, he added; but it
was easy to see that this was a mere excuse. His pretext for coming to
us now, was, that Sceriffe Asman, who was going to his native country,
Timbuctoo, had offered to convey letters for us, from whence they might
be forwarded to Tripoli; and that he himself would call for them in the
morning. This I hoped to prevent, by saying that we had neither letters
to send, nor presents to give to Sceriffe, therefore we did not wish to
see him.
A great number of Arabs are at present residing in Rabba; they have come
from various parts, and trade with the natives in red caps, trona, small
looking-glasses of the most inferior description, red cloth, silk, &c.,
which they bring chiefly from Fezzan. Among these Arabs is a famous
Sheikh, who, we understand, will set out in a few days on a journey to
Timbuctoo and other places.
_Sunday, Oct. 10th._—Mohamed and the Falàtah messenger arrived at
Zagōzhi in company this morning, in pursuance of their agreement. The
former brought with him a fine sheep as a present from the Magīa, and
Mallam Dendo sent a large pot of honey by the hands of the latter. Both
princes, according to the account of their representatives, were
mightily pleased with their respective presents, and expressed their
acknowledgments in the warmest and most grateful terms; they repeated
the encouraging promises which they had before held out with regard to
our journey, and have commissioned the ‘King of the Dark Water,’ under
certain circumstances, to supply us with a commodious canoe, as
excellent as our hearts can desire; strongly recommending us to enter
into arrangements with him, and deliver our two Patàshie canoes, which
are comparatively small and of little value, into his keeping till our
departure from the country. A man is also to accompany us as far as the
sea, to be our guide and interpreter on the voyage. This intelligence
has made us quite easy in mind, and filled us with hope and joy, for,
previous to the arrival of these men, our hearts misgave us that
everything would not prosper well. They seem to have forgotten the
presents we had bestowed on them as well as their masters, for they have
been very pressing to-day in their solicitations for money and needles,
so that I have gone so far as to cut my coat in pieces for them to make
caps of the cloth. Mohamed, in particular, has been incessantly annoying
us in this manner, and brought a fellow with him from Rabba, who, he
wished us to believe, was the Magīa’s eldest son, merely for the purpose
of exacting a present from us proportionate to his rank; but we saw
through his deceit in time to prevent our being taken in by him, and
crushed it in its infancy.
It is provoking to be continually tormented so, and after all to receive
nothing for our pains and the sacrifices we make but discontent, black
looks, and grumbling without end. These fellows, instead of paying their
respects in the first place to the chief of the island, had come to us
directly from the landing-place; and, because they had something of
consequence to communicate to him, in which we ourselves were intimately
concerned, after having remained in our company long enough to ascertain
that they could extort nothing further from us, Mohamed who had come
with them, declared that they were in a hurry to be gone, to make amends
for their delay, and therefore boldly demanded two thousand cowries ‘to
open,’ as he expressed it, or ‘clean out the mouth of the “Water King!”’
or else, he declared, no business whatever could be transacted with him;
it was the only method, he added gravely, with which he was acquainted,
of enticing him to speak on any subject of importance. We knew all the
time that the fellow was endeavouring to deceive us; but seeing how much
our success depended on keeping all these sort of gentlemen in good
humour, and that our interest lay in being imposed on now and then, we
complied with his request. Considering, after what had passed, that
Mohamed and his colleagues might embezzle this sum, which in fact they
strove to do, we sent Paskoe along with them to the chief’s house. Both
he and his people continue to show us every hospitality, and to treat us
with all manner of respect and civility.
_Monday, Oct. 11th._—_Ali_, the Arab, who, it will be recollected,
introduced himself to our notice in Yàoorie, paid us a visit to-day from
Rabba, where he has been residing some time past. We hardly knew him
again at first, on account of his altered countenance, and the languid
and emaciated appearance of his person, which, he tells us, has been the
effect of sickness and anxiety, occasioned by an attack of the Guinea-
worm, which had confined him within doors on his mat for three weeks.
Instead of proceeding to Alorie in Yarriba, which it was his intention
of doing, he had changed his mind suddenly, and had come to Rabba, where
he was at first courteously received and entertained. The horses which
he had in his possession belonged to the good old Gadado of Soccatoo, by
whom he was commissioned to sell them to the highest bidder. These
animals were exceedingly large, handsome, and spirited, so much so
indeed, that the prince of the Falàtahs took a great fancy to them, and
purchased them, at an extravagant price, very shortly after they had
been first exhibited in public by Ali. But not having money sufficient
at his disposal at the time, Mallam Dendo promised to give the value of
the animals partly in cowries and partly in handsome tobes of native
manufacture, which the seller agreed to receive as willingly. He has,
however, been detained here ever since, and to the present time has been
put off day after day with empty promises. Ali does not think that this
procrastination proceeds from any dishonest feeling on the part of the
prince of the Falàtahs, but that it is really from want of the means of
paying him, owing to the expenses attending several warlike expeditions
in which he has been recently engaged.
Such, generally speaking, is the manner of trading in this country, a
few years’ credit being thought very little of; and it is not unusual to
meet with individuals who have been unable to obtain payment of debts
for ten or a dozen years at least.
We had a long chat with Ali, and gave him a few old things which were
useless to us; but we soon found it necessary to send him away, as he
began complaining very grievously of poverty and wretchedness.
The Arab, in course of conversation, remarked, that it would be a good
speculation to send some needles for sale at the Rabba market, which is
extremely large and well attended; therefore, we took the hint, and sent
Jowdie and Ibrahim, two of our men, with a certain quantity to dispose
of, and they both returned in the evening with the fruits of their
success, having obtained the sum of eight thousand cowries for them.
This has given us fresh spirits again, for we had not a single cowrie to
give to our men. The inhabitants of Rabba purchased them very eagerly,
at from fifteen to thirty cowries each needle, and they were anxious to
get more, when they found that our men had disposed of the whole.
It has been the policy of Mallam Dendo, who, by all accounts, is an able
and crafty chief, and a courageous man, to advance foreigners of all
nations to certain lucrative and important posts, either about his
person, in the army, or as governors of conquered towns; and by this
means he conciliates, in a great measure, the black, or original
population of the country, confirms his reputation, and establishes his
sovereignty with little trouble over lands and districts which he may
have subjugated and added to his dominions. It appears that the prince
of Rabba is wholly independent of Bello, the sultan of Soccatoo, or at
most that he pays only a nominal allegiance to that monarch, though an
amicable intercourse is constantly kept up between them.
Mallam Dendo lately planned an expedition against the kingdom of Funda,
which was instantly carried into execution, though former enterprises of
the kind had uniformly terminated in confusion and defeat. This also was
a complete failure; for as his soldiers were drawing near the city of
Funda, as the story goes, and had attained an eminence for the purpose
of reconnoitring the surrounding country, they saw, or thought they saw,
to their infinite amazement, a large army coming out to meet them, and
all the soldiers armed with muskets, and clothed after the manner of
foreigners in blue and white dresses. This put them all in a
consternation; and without stopping to look behind them, they fled with
the utmost speed, and returned to their own homes without accomplishing
anything. Here they attempted to vindicate their cowardice by telling
their countrymen a very marvellous story of their having encountered an
army of white men, whose formidable equipments and warlike appearance
had made their hearts droop within them, and they had fled. In allusion
to this story, Mallam Dendo asked Paskoe, in confidence, yesterday,
whether he did not think that many of our countrymen were assisting
their adversaries?
Mallam Dendo, it is said, can send one thousand horse soldiers, well
equipped and mounted on noble animals, to the field; and the number of
foot soldiers he has at his command is so great, that it is not known.
All runaway slaves are encouraged to join the ranks on condition of
receiving their freedom; and they are joined by a vast number from the
surrounding country. The natives are commanded by captains from among
their own countrymen, and the Falàtahs also by theirs; the greatest
good-will prevails among them, and we have nowhere observed quarrelling
of any kind.
The Falàtahs are now in possession of the whole of Nouffie, Ederesa
having relinquished his claim, as he had been deserted by the greater
part of his troops, who joined the army of Mallam Dendo. Both the Magīa
and Ederesa have little or no authority. The Falàtah prince has sent his
messengers, both by land and water, to collect the taxes and tributes
throughout the country of Nouffie, which were last year paid to Ederesa.
Yarriba will soon follow the condition of Nouffie, and the Falàtahs, in
the course of a few years, will reach the sea. An idea of their
character may be formed from their usual boast, that they could conquer
the whole world if the salt water did not prevent them.
_Friday, Oct. 12th._—As we have already said, Rabba market is very
celebrated, and considered by traders as one of the largest and best in
the whole country, of which it may be styled the emporium; a variety of
articles, both of native and foreign manufacture, are there offered for
sale; and it is generally well supplied with slaves of both sexes.
Yesterday, one of our men counted between one and two hundred men,
women, and children, who were all exposed for sale in ranks or lines.
These poor creatures have, for the most part, been captured in war; and,
it is said, that the Falàtahs rarely treat them with unkindness, and
never with brutality. The price of a strong, healthy lad is about forty
thousand cowries (8_l._ sterling); a girl fetches as much as fifty
thousand, and perhaps more if she be at all interesting; and the value
of men and women varies according to their age and abilities. Slaves are
sometimes purchased at Rabba by people inhabiting a country situated a
good way down the Niger, and from thence they are delivered from hand to
hand till they at length reach the sea. Ivory is likewise sold, most
likely to the same individuals, and large tusks may be purchased at a
thousand cowries each, and occasionally at a much cheaper rate. We have
eleven elephants’ tusks of our own, which were presented to us by the
kings of Wowow and Boussà, but we have been unable to dispose of them at
Rabba because no strangers are at present in the city.
All the principal inhabitants of Rabba are complaining bitterly of the
want of money, and the peculiar hardness of the times. Formerly, they
say, it was not so; and they ascribe their present poverty and
embarrassments to their late reverses in war, and misfortunes at home.
Their recent unsuccessful attack on the _Cumbrie_ people, who reside in
the province of Engaskie, near Yàoorie, and which we have alluded to in
our visit to that country, has quite humiliated and disheartened them.
To be outwitted and overthrown by the unwarlike Cumbrie, who are
considered as a despicable race by all people, and to have lost so many
men and horses in that expedition, have been a source of great
mortification to their vanity, and derogation of their high name. In
order to redeem their national character from the stain which it has
thus received, and to restore the reputation for bravery and resolution
which had before so eminently distinguished them from their neighbours,
but which is now so deeply tarnished, the Falàtahs at Rabba are actively
employed in hastening preparations for the invasion of Yarriba; and are
resolved, it is reported, to set out in a very few days for Katunga, the
capital, which is to be their first object of attack. They anticipate
success, without the dread of opposition; and they already boast of
acquisitions which they have not yet gained, and exult in the thoughts
of the splendour and opulence they shall enjoy in cities which they have
not yet seen. Our old friend, the monarch of Yarriba, on his part, has
been put on his guard, and is, we hear, determined to resist any hostile
attempt which may be made against his country.
Mallam Dendo sent for Paskoe this morning in a great hurry, with a
message, that he was waiting impatiently his arrival at Rabba, having
something of the utmost consequence to communicate. As may easily be
conjectured, we were rather surprised at this unexpected summons, and
waited Paskoe’s return with much anxiety, for we had no doubt whatever
that we were principally concerned in it. When, however, he _did_ come
back, and enter our hut, he looked very wistfully, and informed us, with
considerable agitation both of voice and manner, that Mallam Dendo had
expressed to him the greatest dissatisfaction at the things which he had
received from us as a present, declaring them to be perfectly worthless,
and, with the exception of the looking-glass, ‘fit only for a child!’
that he well knew we could have sent him something more useful and of
greater value, if we had thought proper; but that if we persisted in our
refusal to do so, he should demand of us our guns, pistols, and powder,
before he would consent or permit us to leave Zagōzhi. This news made us
very uneasy and unhappy, and we sat down in gloom and thoughtfulness
without uttering a word, for we believed this to be a death-blow to all
our hopes. To part with the only defensive weapons in our possession, we
felt determined not to do; it brought to our recollection the fable of
the lion deprived of his teeth and claws. We knew that if we were to be
deprived of these, we should be entirely in the power of a set of
fellows who are remarkable neither for generosity nor nobleness of
principle, without the means of helping ourselves; and we resolved never
to part with our guns unless compelled to do so by force or from the
most urgent necessity. Having reflected deliberately on our situation,
we felt convinced that something on our part must be done, by way of
conciliation, if we had any intention of quitting the country, and of
prosecuting our enterprise. The chief also wanted to know why we had not
gone to Sansam to see the Magīa, having been only five days’ journey
from him when at Yàoorie, and added, that one of us must go immediately.
We were much hurt, and pointed out to the messenger our only box of
presents, and told him it was all we possessed to last us to the sea,
adding, that if we were to give his master more, we should have nothing
left to obtain us even food on our voyage. At this moment we thought of
Mr. Park’s tobe, which was given to us by the king of Boossà; and
thought, that as it was the only thing which we had to offer, it _might_
in consequence of the splendour of its appearance, and its intrinsic
value, prove an acceptable present to the covetous prince, and we fondly
hoped that it might be the means of a perfect reconciliation on both
sides: therefore, under these considerations, we immediately dispatched
Ibrahim with it to Rabba, though our hearts misgave us at the time, that
it would after all be thought lightly of, as an excuse for further
extortions. Of course, we deeply lamented the necessity to which we were
reduced on parting with this curiosity, but it was inevitable. We sent
word by Ibrahim also, that having no good presents to give him was the
reason I had not visited Bello when we were at Yàoorie, and that I
declined doing so for the same reasons now. Our plan was to make friends
with the Rabba chief, and this we have some hopes the tobe we have just
sent to him will effect.
In less than two hours after his departure, Ibrahim returned from his
errand with a quick step and cheerful looks, and informed us, that the
tobe was accepted by the prince with rapturous admiration. By this
present we had made him our friend for ever; he regretted that the
Falàtahs had no canoes, but were they possessed of any, he would make us
a present of as many as we might want, and accelerate our departure from
Zagōzhi with all his influence. ‘Ask the white men,’ said he, ‘what they
would desire, and if Rabba can supply them with it, tell them they shall
always have it.’ ‘Well!’ he continued, ‘I must purchase this tobe; I
will not accept it as a gift,—that would be against my principles, and
besides it would be wrong for me to be guilty of such injustice. Now I
shall be something like a king,’ he added, turning the tobe inside and
out; ‘let no man know of it; my neighbours will behold me with envy; and
as for my own people, I will surprise them some morning by putting it on
when they are going to war; it will dazzle their eyes. How great will be
their astonishment!’ In this manner the prince of the Falàtahs talked to
Ibrahim. We hardly know what conclusion to draw from it, but rather
imagine that this present of the tobe will in the end be advantageous to
our interests, though we very much regret its loss. Our man has been
desired to visit Rabba again to-morrow, when a present of some kind will
be sent us as an acknowledgment, for such is the custom of the country.
_Wednesday, October 13th._—In pursuance of the chief’s arrangement, we
sent Ibrahim and Paskoe to him this morning. He received them with
civility, said he was highly pleased at their coming, and wished to know
in what manner he could best express his acknowledgments to us for the
present we had made him, which he termed a ‘princely gift,’ promising to
make us all the return for it in his power, by forwarding our departure,
and assisting us in the object of our visit as much as he was able.
Paskoe, who had previously been tutored by us, and who is not deficient
in sagacity, made answer, and said, that our first wish, and the one
which he believed we were most anxious about, was to obtain a large
canoe, and pursue our journey on the Niger as fast as possible; that as
we had little money, and but few presents, and as the ‘King of the Dark
Water’ had refused to exchange a canoe of the above description, for
those which we had obtained at Patàshie, unless we would consent to pay
him ten thousand cowries, we should be obliged to him to settle that
little affair to our satisfaction, otherwise he said we should be
embarrassed with insuperable difficulties. And that if the prince of
Rabba approved of it, a few mats, tobes, or sandals, would be highly
acceptable; and would be considered by us as a sufficient remuneration
for the presents we had made him. This answer pleased the prince, and he
cheerfully agreed to the whole of Paskoe’s propositions. He then went
out and procured a bundle of the handsomest-coloured mats, for the
manufacture of which Rabba is famous, and came back, and delivered them
into the hands of Paskoe as an offering to us, with two large bags of
rice, and a bunch of plantains. He gave Ibrahim also a handsome tobe and
cap for himself; and promised to send a messenger to the _King of the
Dark Water_ to settle the business of the canoe, by whom he would
likewise send valuable tobes, to be worn by my brother and myself. He
then presented Paskoe with a thousand cowries; and he returned with
Ibrahim to Zagōzhi, quite overjoyed with success.
A foot messenger from the King of Nouffie arrived at Rabba in the
morning. His sovereign had despatched him privately to Mallam Dendo,
with an insinuation to him, ‘that if it met with his approbation, he
(the Magīa) would order us to be detained at Zagōzhi until we should
consent to make him a present of a certain number of dollars, or
something equivalent to them in value; that he disbelieved the story of
our poverty altogether, and would therefore search our luggage, in order
to discover whether our assertion was true or false, that we had no
greater presents to make.’ So much dissimulation, meanness and rapacity,
which this trait in his character exhibits, we had little reason to
expect from the King of Nouffie, after expressing for us, so warmly and
repeatedly as he has done, protestations of the most cordial, candid,
and lasting friendship. We could not forbear feeling very indignant at
this foul breach of the laws of hospitality and good faith, which we had
experienced in every part of the country previous to this. Perhaps it
was well that we had presented the prince of Rabba with Mr. Park’s tobe,
for he treated the message and its bearer with contempt, and answered
energetically: ‘Tell the Magīa, your sovereign, that I would rebuke him
for this expression of his sentiments; that I detest his base
insinuations; that I will never consent to his wishes; and that I reject
his proposal with disdain. What! shall the white men, who have come from
such distant lands to visit our country, who have spent their substance
among us, and made us presents, before we had leisure to do any good for
them, shall they be treated so inhumanly? Never! They have worn their
shoes from their feet, and their clothes from their persons, by the
length and tediousness of their journeys; they have thrown themselves
into our hands, to claim our protection and partake of our hospitality;
shall we treat them then as robbers, and cast them from us like dogs?
Surely not. What would our neighbours,—what would our friends—our foes,
say to this? What could be a greater reproach than the infamy which
would attach itself to our characters, and to our name, should we treat
these poor, unprotected, wandering strangers, and white men, too, in the
manner your monarch, the King of Nouffie, proposes? After they have been
received and entertained with so much hospitality and honour in Yarriba,
at Wowow, and at Boossà, shall it be said that Rabba treated them badly;
that she shut her doors upon them, and plundered them? No, never! I have
already given my word to protect them, and I will not forfeit that
sacred pledge for all the guns and swords in the world.’ Such was the
answer which the King of Nouffie’s messenger received from the Falàtah
chieftain. Surely it was worthy of a prince.
Our men saw and conversed with this Nouffie messenger, who had made no
secret of his errand, and the above answer was related to Paskoe by the
prince of the Falàtahs himself.
The imbecility of the Magīa, and his want of power, are strikingly
apparent; he exercises a nominal authority only over his people, Mallam
Dendo being evidently the ruling monarch of the whole kingdom of
Nouffie. The former never enters into any public undertaking, without
consulting the Falàtah ruler, and first obtaining his consent to the
measure, be it urgent or otherwise.
Several Hàussa merchants arrived at Rabba this morning, with a number of
fine horses for sale. As soon as they entered the town, they went to pay
their respects to the prince, when Paskoe happened to be in his company,
and they conversed together in the Falàtah language, not thinking for a
moment that it could be understood by him. In allusion to us, for we are
generally brought on the _tapis_ on such occasions, they spoke very much
in our praise, mentioned Captain Clapperton, ‘the unfortunate Abdallah,’
in terms of the highest admiration, and had seen with wonder the
splendid and curious presents which he had made to Sultan Bello at
Soccatoo. ‘I know the white men, too,’ said the prince, ‘they are good
men; in fact I have reason to speak well of them, for I also am a white
man, and therefore I am of opinion that they are of the same blood as
ourselves.’ It is in this manner that Falàtahs endeavour to claim
relationship with Europeans, though these people are either of a swarthy
complexion, or black as soot; and this passion to be considered fair is
often carried to a most ridiculous height. White men, how sorry soever
their outward appearance may be, are certainly considered, not only by
Falàtahs, but by the native blacks, as a superior order of beings, in
all respects more excellent than themselves. At Yàoorie we recollect
having overheard a conversation between two men, who were quarrelling in
the very height of passion. ‘What!’ exclaimed one of them to his fellow,
‘thou pitiful son of a black ant! dost thou presume to say that a horse
was my father? Look at these Christians! for as they are, I am; and such
were my ancestors; answer me not, I say, for I am a white man!’ The
speaker was a Negro, and his skin was the colour of charcoal.
_Thursday, October 14th._—It is time that our journey should be
completed, for our goods are very nearly exhausted; and so far from
being in a condition to make further presents, our means will scarcely
be adequate to procure the bare necessaries of life. Our stock of cloth,
looking-glasses, snuff-boxes, knives, scissors, razors, and tobacco-
pipes, has already been given away, and we have only needles and a few
silver bracelets left to present to the chiefs whom we may reasonably
expect to fall in with on our voyage down the Niger. Henceforward we
must endeavour to shun as many large towns on the banks of the river, as
we may venture to do with safety. In order to obtain a little money, in
addition to what we have already been enabled to procure from the sale
of a quantity of needles, both for present use and future convenience, I
sent my watch this afternoon to the Falàtah general, who is the
Bornouese that made us a present a day or two ago, and he agreed to
purchase it for the sum of sixty thousand cowries; but having the
misfortune to let it fall shortly afterwards, as he was in the act of
mounting his horse, the glass was broken by the accident, and it was so
much damaged outwardly, that its beauty of appearance is entirely
destroyed. It was returned to us towards evening, with a present of a
bunch of plantains and a beautiful leopard’s skin, as a remuneration for
the injury which it had sustained, but without sending any apology, or
the most distant allusion to the accident! The watch, however, still
_ticked_, and the brightness of its inner case was untarnished,
therefore we sent it over instantly to Mallam Dendo, who received it
with eagerness, and purchased it on the spot for a large sum of money,
which he has promised to pay us to-morrow, and Paskoe has accordingly
left it in his hands.
The story which we heard when at Yàoorie, relative to the decease of old
Mallam Dendo, father of the present prince of the Falàtahs, was not
true, as that individual is still alive. But the rumour we suppose to
have originated from the old chief’s abdication in favour of his son,
which took place at the time, and his relinquishment of all public
business in consequence of that resolution, though it is said that he
still influences his son’s conduct in all private as well as public
concerns. He now sits, as the Arabs tell us, in one position every day
from morning till night, with three large calabashes around him, one of
which is kept constantly filled with _tuah_, another with cowries, and a
third with goora nuts; and he revels in the delights which these
calabashes afford him all day long. He has the reputation also, now that
he is become old, of being both a miser and a glutton. He receives but
few visiters, and those are of a particular description, with whom
acquaintance has made him familiar, and whose company, equality of age,
and a similarity in tastes and inclinations, have rendered desirable.
These friends are at liberty to eat a handful of _tuah_, or chew a goora
nut in his company, whenever they please. Old Mallam Dendo is considered
a very eccentric character by all those who have either seen or heard of
him, and his singular manner of living is the common theme of
conversation among all ranks. His son is said to inherit none of his
father’s foibles or propensities; he is revered as a leader, and beloved
as a man, though the Arabs do not speak well of his consistency. For
some reason, the report of the old man’s death is industriously
propagated.
_Friday, October 15th._—We are generally awakened every morning at day-
break, and on particular occasions long before the sun rises, with the
noise of the grinding of corn and the loud cheerful singing which
accompanies it from the females engaged in that laborious occupation,
for females only are employed in it. The same custom prevails in
Yarriba, in Borgoo, and at Yàoorie, and in fact throughout the whole of
western, central, and northern Africa, as far as we can learn. Instead
of the mill formerly used in Judea, and in all eastern countries, with
its handle of wood or iron in the rim, the people here simply employ two
large stones, flat and smooth, with the uppermost of which they rub the
grain till it becomes sufficiently fine. Perhaps this is a more ancient,
as it is a more simple contrivance, than the corn-mills used by the
females of the east, to which it is greatly inferior. However, Dr.
Clarke, the traveller, is of opinion, that the former ‘are the primeval
mills of the world,’ and he also says, that ‘they are still found in all
corn countries where rude and ancient customs have not been liable to
those changes introduced by refinement.’
_Rabba_, which has before been alluded to, appears from Zagōzhi to be a
considerably large, neat, clean, and well-built town, though it is
unwalled, and is not otherwise fenced. It is irregularly built on the
slope of a gently-rising hill, at the foot of which runs the Niger; and
in point of rank, population, and wealth, it is the second city in the
Falàtah dominions, Soccatoo alone being considered as its superior. It
is inhabited by a mixed population of Falàtahs, Noufanchie, and
emigrants and slaves from various countries, and is governed by a ruler
who exercises sovereign authority over Rabba and its dependencies, and
is styled Sultan or King. The regal power is despotic, though exercised
with mildness, and the succession hereditary. The Arabs and all
strangers have an enclosure of dwellings to themselves, which is in the
suburbs of the town. Rabba is famous for milk, oil, and honey. The
market, when our messengers were there, appeared to be well supplied
with bullocks, horses, mules, asses, sheep, goats, and abundance of
poultry. Rice and various sorts of corn, cotton, cloth, indigo, saddles
and bridles made of red and yellow leather, besides shoes, boots, and
sandals, were offered for sale in great plenty. Although they observed
about two hundred slaves for sale, none had been disposed of when they
left the market in the evening. The inhabitants grow abundance of corn
and rice, and other productions common to the neighbouring countries,
and they cultivate the plantain shrub with success. They possess large
flocks and herds of the finest description, and their horned cattle are
remarkable for their size and beauty. They have also a prodigious number
of excellent horses, of which they take the greatest care, and they are
universally admired for their strength and elegant proportions. These
animals are used only for war, recreation, and in travelling. It is the
pride and pleasure of the higher classes to dress well, and display
their persons and their horsemanship to advantage, and it is gratifying
to witness the grace and dexterity with which they preserve their
command over these beautiful creatures. In the management of their
horses, they are perhaps not inferior to the Arabs, from whom they have,
in all probability, derived most of their lessons in the art. Rabba is
not very famous for the number or variety of its artificers, and yet in
the manufacture of mats and sandals they are unrivalled. However in all
other handicrafts Rabba yields to Zagōzhi.
_Zagōzhi_, situated as it is, directly opposite Rabba, participates in
many of its advantages, though still it has various inconveniences
peculiar to itself. The town is built on a bog, for such it appears to
us, and it lies so close to the water, that in fact hundreds of huts are
literally standing in it. So little regard do the people appear to have
for what is termed comfort, that they suffer the walls of their
dwellings either to fall to pieces, or permit large chinks and holes to
remain in them, which freely admit the wind and rain; while the floors,
which are made of earth or clay, are so soft and damp, that a slender
stick may easily be thrust into them by the hand to any depth. Our own
is of this description. In so moist a situation as this, it may readily
be supposed the air in the night season is illuminated with fire-flies.
The huts of the natives are infested with mosquitoes and other more
disgusting insects, which abound indeed in millions. When the Niger
subsides, and leaves Zagōzhi exposed with all its dirt to the influence
of the sun, the noxious vapours and exhalations with which the air must
of necessity be impregnated, will render it no doubt very insalubrious;
but at present the inhabitants make few or no complaints.
In their huts the people exhibit no very favourable specimens of taste
or cleanliness; and in this respect, certainly, they are greatly
inferior to their neighbours on the other side of the river. However, in
their persons they are by no means so negligent, for they always appear
extremely well dressed; and we have rarely met with so large a number of
tall, handsome, well-formed men and comely women, as in this place.
The care which the Falàtah bestows, and the pride which he takes in his
horse, are employed and indulged by the inhabitants of Zagōzhi in an
equal proportion in their canoes; the Niger is covered with these little
vessels, and to be skilful in the management of them is their greatest
boast. The chief of the island has about six hundred canoes, all of
which will be employed, when the young Mallam Dendo is proclaimed king,
in conveying the Falàtah troops across the river on their expedition
into Yarriba. They are fond of aquatic occupations, even to a passion,
and carry them to excess. All the trade by water in these parts is in
their hands, and they are proprietors of the ferry to and from Rabba,
which is a source of considerable emolument to those engaged in this
speculation. They are also excellent fishermen, and, in fact, the
population of Zagōzhi are almost amphibious, so prone are they to be
perpetually sporting in bogs or dabbling in water. But they do not
confine themselves all the year round entirely to the river, for they
cultivate the soil as well, and, like their countrymen of Nouffie, in
the manufacture of various articles they evince considerable ingenuity
and expertness. The cloth which they manufacture in common with their
countrymen, and the tobes and trowsers which they make, are most
excellent, and would not disgrace an European manufactory; they are worn
and valued by kings, chiefs, and great men, and are the admiration of
the neighbouring nations, which vainly attempt to imitate them. We have
also seen a variety of caps, which are worn solely by females, and made
of cotton interwoven with silk, of the most exquisite workmanship. The
people here are uncommonly industrious, be they males or females, and
are always busy either in culinary, or other domestic occupations.
In our walks we see groups of people employed in spinning cotton and
silk; others in making wooden bowls and dishes, mats of various
patterns, shoes, sandals, cotton dresses and caps, and the like; others
busily occupied in fashioning brass and iron stirrups, bits for bridles,
hoes, chains, fetters, &c.; and others again employed in making saddles
and horse accoutrements. These various articles, which are intended for
the Rabba market, evince considerable taste and ingenuity in their
execution.
We have not seen a single public amusement since we have been among
them. In this respect they are an example to their neighbours. They seem
quite independent of all authority and above all restraint, except that
of the legitimate _King of the Dark Water_, and their own interests
induce them to obey him alone. They care as little for the Falàtahs as
the Falàtahs for them; the peculiarity of their situation renders them
secure from foreign invasion, and insensible to the calamities and
distresses which overwhelm the natives of many parts of the continent.
They have liberty stamped on their features, and lightness and activity,
so rarely to be seen in this country of sluggards, are observable in all
their actions. The generality of the people are well-behaved; they are
hospitable and obliging to strangers; they dwell in amity with their
neighbours, and live in unity, peace, and social intercourse with
themselves; they are made bold by freedom, affluent by industry and
frugality, healthy by exercise and labour, and happy from a combination
of all these blessings.
The population of Zagōzhi cannot well be estimated, on account of its
lowness and the prevailing flatness of the country round, on which
neither a hillock nor eminence of any kind can be discerned. However, it
must be immense; and we consider it to be one of the most extensive and
thickly inhabited towns, as well as one of the most important trading
places in the whole kingdom of Nouffie, not excepting even Coulfo.
According to our estimation the island may be about fifteen miles long
and three in breadth, but the greater part of it is now nearly
overflowed. Notwithstanding this, the natives appear to enjoy good
health.
Novelties, however trifling, attract the notice of the people of Rabba,
as glittering baubles excite the attention of a child; and as children,
too, become tired of their plaything a few moments only after it is put
into their hands, so do they throw aside in disgust, when it ceases to
be a novelty, that which they would have given half their substance to
obtain a few seconds before it actually became their own. They are
Pleased with a feather, tickled with a straw.
The prince of the Falàtahs is already tired of my watch, which he
purchased yesterday, and he returned it this afternoon, with all its
machinery broken; and, like the Bornouese soldier, without making any
acknowledgment for his carelessness. However, we _have received
permission to quit Zagōzhi to-morrow morning, to pursue our journey down
the Niger_; and though all the promises of the Magīa have terminated in
nothing—though a Nouffie guide has been denied us—and though it is
likely that we shall be perplexed with a thousand difficulties, yet we
are in high spirits and great good humour at the thoughts of our
release, for we know that we shall go our way with alacrity and
confidence.
We have been busily employed in packing up and making preparations for
our departure from Zagōzhi to-morrow morning. We are in hopes of having
no difficulties about the canoe, and are desirous of obtaining one that
will hold all of our party, as it will be a much more satisfactory
arrangement for us, and more convenient than two small ones. The chief
of the island visited us in the morning, and promised to send a
messenger with us as far as _Egga_, on the banks of the river. This is
the last town, we are told, down the river belonging to the Nouffie
territory, and its distance from hence is said to be four days’ journey.
He tells us also, that the river is quite safe, according to the reports
of the Nouffie people who trade between this place and Egga.
This afternoon, the chief was unwilling to part with a canoe under any
consideration, yet, as a token of his friendship and regard, he has
offered to spare us one for twenty thousand cowries! in addition to our
own which we brought from Patàshie island. A messenger from the prince
of Rabba arrived here just after this proposition was made us, with full
powers to treat with the Water King for our canoe. ‘I will see,’ said
the man, ‘whether I can make him comply with your wishes or not; he will
not show me any of his airs, I am sure.’ This messenger brought with him
a large bag of rice as a present from Mallam Dendo, who desired him to
inform us, that ‘he wished us well, and should be most happy to hear of
our return to the country by way of the Niger.’ As soon as he had
delivered his message to us, he repaired to the dwelling of the Zagōzhi
chief, and returned to us from his errand shortly afterwards, with the
intelligence of his having succeeded in obtaining the long-talked-of
canoe, which would be in readiness to receive us on board at an early
hour to-morrow. This has removed a great weight from our minds.
Last night my brother was troubled and terrified in his sleep by a
frightful dream of scorpions, and, to his astonishment, when he awoke
this morning, he discovered one of those reptiles on his mat, which he
had crushed to death in his sleep.
The ‘Dark Water King’ has been informed of our poverty, we believe, and
his goodness is declining very perceptibly in consequence. Nor do his
people, we are sorry to say, regard us with the same respect and
partiality as formerly, nor treat us with as much beer as they did.
Doubtless they have imbibed a similar notion, that the white men are
poor, and _their_ kindness and goodnature are also fast dwindling away.
Perhaps all this is natural: even from our friends and relations,
hospitality and tenderness do not, under such circumstances, last for
ever. It is true the natives have pitied us; but pity is composed of
sorrow and contempt; and here, as in more polished countries, we have
found it to be unsubstantial and fleeting. After the first gush of
feeling, the tear of compassion gives place to the frigid indifference
of contempt. To be pitied is to be despised. Such is the case here, and
such is the way of the world.
* * * * *
LONDON:
Printed by WILLIAM CLOWES,
Stamford Street.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: _Mesr_, as the Arabs pronounce the word, is the _Cairo_ of
Europeans.]
[Footnote 2: The same as _Comie_ in the map.]
[Footnote 3: This is most probably the Songa of Clapperton, he having
passed through it on his way to Comie from Boossà; and his name,
therefore, has been adopted in the map.]
[Footnote 4: This place has three names. Clapperton calls it _Comie_,
‘or more properly, _Wonjerque_,’ and Lander _Inguâzhilligee_. It appears
to be the first place below Boossà where the river is entirely clear of
rocks, and is therefore adopted as the ferry, and called the ‘King’s
Ferry.’ It is the general thoroughfare for merchants passing and
repassing from Nouffie and the countries to the north-east of Borgoo.]
[Footnote 5: The first _z_ in this word, is pronounced like our _z_ in
azure.]
Transcriber's note:
pg 60, Changed: "the Magīa, which which was the occasion of" to:
"Magīa, which was"
pg 93, Changed: "for these simple, villagers" to: "for these simple
villagers"
pg 143, Changed: "aud he felt assured that we should reach" to: "and"
pg 148, Changed: "we came in sight of the wals" to: "walls"
pg 230, Changed: "little more sprits of hartshorn" to: "spirits"
pg 240, Changed: "aftewards, in order to get clear" to: "afterwards"
Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.
Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.