State of the Town of Lever — The Falátahs — The Travellers’ Canoes
claimed — Interference of Ducoo — Detention of the Travellers — Their
departure from Lever — The Town of Bajiebo — Chiefs — Canoes of Bajiebo
— Departure from Bajiebo — Scenery of the River — Town of Leechee —
Visit to the Chief — The Passage continued down the River — Madjie
Island — Mount Kesa — Land on Belee Island — Messenger from Rabba —
Arrival of Suliken Rouah, or the King of the Dark Water — Grand
Procession of Canoes down the River — Arrival at Zagōzhi[5] Island — Its
swampy nature.
_Friday, October 1st._—This morning, to our infinite relief, the four
messengers from Wowow and Boossà spoken of yesterday, were paid for
having accompanied us hither, and in the forenoon they left the town in
company to go to Wowow. The Patàshie canoemen also received their wages
at the same time, and embarked in two canoes a few minutes afterwards,
on their return homewards, so that there only remains with us at present
one of the Nouffie messengers who joined us at Boossà.
This town is called indiscriminately _Lever_ and _Layaba_, though the
latter name seems most generally applied here. Its population is great,
and though it is very extensive, it has been built and occupied a very
few years only. Its inhabitants are all Nouffie people, and not long ago
resided in a large village on the opposite side of the river; but on
account of the civil wars which raged in their country, setting every
man against his friend, and against his neighbour, when property was
insecure, freedom threatened, and life in danger, they were driven to
seek an asylum here, where they fancied themselves out of the influence
of these evils, and beyond the reach of the Falátahs, of whom they have
an unconquerable dread. Here accordingly they erected their dwellings,
and cleared the adjacent ground for cultivation. However, the poor
people were not left a great while to enjoy unmolested the security
which they had been in quest of, and which they imagined they had found
at Layaba, for three years ago their relentless enemies invaded their
retreat, ransacked the town and destroyed their houses by fire.
Fortunately for them the inhabitants had timely notice of the approach
of these marauders, and succeeded in recrossing the river, just before
their arrival, without the loss of a single man; nor could the Falátahs
follow them there, because they had no canoes. But rather than have
their property destroyed a second time, and rather than be liable to
continual irruptions of their enemies, who would abuse their women and
enslave themselves, after their return hither the people of Layaba
consented to pay a certain tribute to the prince of the Falátahs at
Rabba, independent of a kind of ground-rent or acknowledgment, which is
paid to the owner of the soil; so that a double duty is by this means
exacted from them. Nor is this all: for parties of Falátahs, which are
without employment at home, are generally prowling about the country,
and levying contributions on those villages which are too feeble to
resist their claims.
Such is the case here at this moment; the Falátahs entered the town on
Wednesday to take from its peaceful inhabitants whatever they thought
proper. These men are all extremely well-dressed, and are armed with
large swords, which are carried about their persons wherever they go. It
is likely enough that, in this town, their object, for the present at
least, will be defeated, for it is affirmed that they are in terrible
apprehension of us, understanding that we should interfere in their
unjustifiable proceedings; and appearances seem to confirm this
assertion.
This afternoon their party was assembled together by beat of drum, and
they crossed the river in a hurry almost immediately after. Without
asking our permission, or giving the slightest intimation of their
intentions to either of us, they launched and took away the Patàshie
canoe, which we call ours, and filled it with their people, which some
one observing, he came running in haste to our hut, and informed us that
the Falátahs had stolen our largest canoe, and were taking it away.
Unacquainted then with their true motives for this action, we were
filled with apprehension, and believing the story which had been told
us, my brother instantly repaired to the water-side, where he observed,
sure enough, our canoe filled with Falàtahs, who were waiting the signal
for starting. He was agitated at the insolence of the fellows, and
ordered them to get out of the canoe immediately, or take the
consequences. They were about to obey his commands, when our officious
friend, Ducoo, the priest, stepped forward, put his hand upon his
shoulder, and with his usual volubility, desired him to be cool, and he
would tell him all. He then informed him that he had himself taken the
liberty of launching the canoe for the use of his friends, made an
apology for not asking permission, and said, that, after the Falátahs
had crossed over on the other side, it should be brought back to us
again. This satisfied my brother, and he left them, though he knew he
had been telling a falsehood, for it was certainly his intention to send
away the canoe, so that we should never have the use of it; but as Ducoo
was to remain at Layaba a little longer, we had determined to keep him
in ‘durance vile,’ till another, through his means, should be got for
us.
In the mean time I had also repaired to the water-side with a pistol,
which so terrified the Falátahs, that those who were on shore jumped
hastily into another canoe, and all of them stole away as fast as they
could, in great trepidation, for they fancied that their end was come.
The priest subsequently remarked, that since our arrival, they had been
greatly alarmed on account of our presence, and that he had been unable
to suppress their fears. Thinking to pay us a compliment, he said we
were stronger and better looking than any chief in the whole country,
with the exception of the sultan of Bornou. He is himself a tall
handsome fellow, and was chuckling at his own ingenuity, but we took
little notice of him, and gave him not so much as a needle for his
remark. This same individual has begun to show himself in his true
colours; in the morning he began begging with much importunity, not only
for himself, but for others, nor would he be quieted until we had
satisfied his covetousness; and he then laid claim to one of our canoes,
which he had the impudence to offer us for sale, and entreated that we
would purchase of him! Surely the man cannot be in earnest. This is
impudence with a vengeance!
Another small party of Falátahs entered Layaba this afternoon. An hour
or two since, one of them attempted to take away a bow and arrows from
an inhabitant of the town, who disputed his right to do so; but the
Falátah enforced his demand by cutting him across the right shoulder
with his sword. The wounded man saw the blood and wept, and ran away to
make a complaint to his chief, who hearkened to his tale and pitied him.
After a good deal of trouble, he caused the bow and arrows to be given
back to their rightful owner, but he could do no more; he dared not
punish the assailant for his crime, and he was suffered to boast of it
at large. How different are these people from the peaceful and happy
Falátahs in Yarriba and other countries, who spend their time solely in
pastoral occupations and pursuits! Thermometer 76°, 85°, 87°, during the
day.
_Saturday, October 2d._—The chief sent us another fine sheep to-day, and
a quantity of dressed provisions swimming in palm oil. He was induced to
make us this present from Ducoo’s insinuations, who, no doubt, has his
own private ends in view. The priest boasts an acquaintance with the
late unfortunate Major Laing, and affirms that he was near the spot at
the time of that gentleman’s death. He can also relate the whole of the
circumstances attending the melancholy fate of Mr. Park and his
associates. But this man is an eternal talker, and therefore we receive
all his communications with extreme suspicion.
In the afternoon a small party of men arrived here in a canoe from the
chief of the island of _Teàh_, with a message to us, purporting that the
canoes which we had, to his infinite surprise, detained at Layaba, did
not belong, as we imagined, to his friend the Chief of Patáshie, but
were his own property; and as he did not acknowledge the authority of
Wowow, but had ever been subject to the King of Nouffie, he considered
that we could have no right whatever to the canoes in question, and
therefore he would entreat us to return them by the hands of his
messengers. He had lent them, because he was willing to oblige us and
please his neighbour; but he did not conceive or think it possible, that
we could make so ungrateful and unkind a return for his hospitality, and
the respect and attention which it had been his pride and pleasure to
show us. For our own parts, we could not forbear acknowledging the truth
and justice of the observations of the Teàh chieftain, and blaming
ourselves for the step we had taken. We therefore expressed our deep and
very sincere regret at the measure which we had, from a combination of
circumstances, been compelled to adopt; yet we assured the chief
messenger, a quiet, respectable man, that it was not altogether our own
fault, (for indeed it was not,) as the Patáshie canoemen well knew, for
the men of Wowow had forbidden them to take back the boats, promising
that their sovereign would pay for them, and the Falátah agent had
prevented them from doing so. We said further, that whatever might be
the consequence, we had not the slightest objection for the canoes to be
restored to their rightful owner; and provided the men from Teàh could
obtain the consent of the priest to take them away, they were at liberty
to do so whenever they might think proper. But this they were by no
means disposed to do, for they both feared and hated him; and therefore
they bribed the Nouffie messenger with a large sum of money to assist
them in their project, and purposed taking away both canoes in the
night-season by stealth. However, their intentions were frustrated by
the watchful vigilance of the priest, who had mistrusted them long
before they were made known to us; and when he had actually detected
their plans, he ordered the canoes to be pulled up on shore, two hundred
yards at least from the water’s edge, and observed with vehemence, that
after what he had done, should they be launched again into the water and
taken away, he would instantly tie a rope round the necks of the chief
of the town, and the Nouffie messenger that had accepted the bribe, and
in that humiliating state, they should be driven like beasts to their
sovereign, the Magīa.
In the evening, the inhabitants of the town assembled outside our house
to amuse themselves by dancing and singing in the moonlight; for,
notwithstanding all their misfortunes and oppressions, they never
refrain from indulging with all their hearts in these sprightly and
thoughtless entertainments. Every dancer held in each hand a cow’s tail;
they were all dressed grotesquely, and a great quantity of strings of
cowries encircled their legs and bodies, which made a loud rattling
noise by the violence and celerity of their movements. They sang as they
danced, and excited, by the oddity of their gestures, loud clappings of
applause, and bursts of laughter from all the bystanders. The spectacle
was exceedingly ludicrous; we have rarely witnessed so much jocularity
and thoughtless gaiety; and we have seldom laughed so much at any native
exhibition. Though the performers panted from want of breath with their
exertions, they yet continued their darling exercises, as is usual with
them, till long after midnight.
Like many of their countrymen, and like the natives of Yarriba, the
inhabitants of Layaba appear to bestow scarcely a moment’s reflection
either on public misery or individual distress—upon their own
misfortunes or the calamities of their neighbours. Nature has moulded
their minds to enjoy the life they lead; their grief, if they grieve at
all, is but for a moment; sorrow comes over them and vanishes like the
lightning’s flash; they weep, and, in the same breath, their spirits
regain their elasticity and cheerfulness; they may well be said to drink
of the waters of Lethe whenever they please. As long as they have food
to eat, and health to enjoy their frivolous pastimes, they seem
contented, happy, and full of life. They think of little else.—
‘Thought would destroy their paradise.’
Thermometer 77°, 88°, 90°, during the day.
_Sunday, Oct. 3d._—We were desired yesterday to get our things packed
up, and ourselves prepared, for that this morning we should quit the
island to proceed on our journey. In pursuance of this arrangement we
had got all our luggage in readiness, and only waited the coming of the
chief to take our departure, when, to our great regret, one of his
messengers entered our hut to apprize us that we should be unable to go
away till to-morrow, his master having been dissuaded from his original
purpose by the officious, bustling priest, our friend and enemy. We
submitted to the disappointment as patiently and silently as we could;
and in the evening we obtained a solemn promise, that whatever might be
the consequence, no one should divert him from the resolution he had
formed of detaining us no longer than to-day; and that early to-morrow
morning we should certainly depart. Thermometer 76°, 89°, 88°, during
the day.
_Monday, Oct. 4th._—Our surprise and displeasure may be guessed, when,
after our goods had been removed from our hut into the yard outside, we
were informed that we should be compelled to abide in the town yet
another day, notwithstanding all that the chief had told us yesterday.
Our patience was now completely exhausted; and we were in great anger,
for it is disheartening to be always deceived and trifled with by such
scoundrels. Repairing instantly to a hut, wherein we knew the chief
passed most of his time, we discovered him sitting on the ground in
company with the artful Ducoo and our Nouffie messenger, and engaged in
a very high dispute with both of them. Our unexpected and abrupt
intrusion, and angry looks, cut short their wrangling; and we spoke with
much emphasis of the shameful manner in which we had been treated, and
expressed our determination of leaving Layaba presently, in defiance of
them and all their power. With the most insolent effrontery in the
world, the priest smiled at us, and replied, that we were entirely in
his power—that we should do as _he_ liked, and quit the town whenever
_he_ thought proper. Such language as this we thought was rather too
bold; we pretended to be in a violent passion, and quickly undeceived
him in this point, threatening, that if either he, or any of his men,
should presume to interfere with us in our intentions or proceedings, or
attempt to hinder us from getting away from the town, we should feel no
more hesitation or reluctance in shooting him than if he had been a
partridge or a Guinea-hen! The priest, who had never before seen
anything in us but mildness, was intimidated at the determined and
resolute behaviour we had found it necessary to adopt: he was crest-
fallen in a moment, and, from being one of the most boisterous and
consequential fellows in the world, became quite passive; yet his
presence of mind did not forsake him: he stammered out a kind of
apology, attempted to soothe us by soft language and submission, in
which he found little difficulty, and did all in his power to effect a
reconciliation. Having settled this business, we went out, and
assembling our men, attempted to draw our canoe to the river side, but
the ground was even, and the boat so long and heavy, that
notwithstanding all our exertions we could move her only a few inches
towards the river. The people were ashamed of themselves to see us
labouring so hard, and to so little purpose; and the priest, likewise,
observing us, was convinced that we were in earnest: therefore,
whispering a few words in the ear of the chief, they both came down to
the spot where we were toiling at the canoe, followed by a number of
men; these, with the priest at their head, took the work out of our
hands, and in less than two minutes the boat was floating on the water.
Our luggage was then conveyed into the two canoes, and shortly
afterwards we were supplied with three men to paddle them with the
assistance of our own. Here we took our farewell of the chief and the
priest, the latter begging us very anxiously to speak well of him to his
sovereign at Rabba.
It was not till after we were all in the canoes, and ready to push off,
that those on shore discovered them to be overladen, and recommended us
to hire one, of immense size, which was lying alongside. Without
stopping to make them any reply, or listen to any further nonsense, we
desired our own men to push the boats out into the middle of the
current, which they did very promptly, and the town of Layaba, with its
chief, and inhabitants, was speedily out of sight, and soon forgotten.
This was about nine o’clock in the morning, so that, after all, we had
lost but little time in getting away.
The banks of the river near Lever are high, being, according to our
estimation, about forty feet above the river, and steep to the water-
side. The river itself appeared deep, and free from rocks of any kind;
its direction nearly south. We ran down the stream very pleasantly for
twelve or fourteen miles, the Niger, during the whole of the distance,
rolling grandly along—a noble river, neither obstructed by islands, nor
deformed with rocks and stones. Its width varied from one to three
miles; the country on each side was very flat, and a few mean, dirty-
looking villages were scattered on the water’s edge. We then came to two
small islands; the land appeared more elevated, and in some few places
it rose in gentle hills. We observed three remarkable and lofty hills on
the eastern side, which rose very abruptly from the plain, and were
separated from each other only by a few yards of ground. Both banks of
the river were overhung with large shady trees, between which we could
perceive the land behind to be open and well-cultivated; and, if we may
be allowed to form an opinion from the number of towns and villages
which were scattered over the country, we should conceive it to be
thickly inhabited also.
At one o’clock, P.M., we landed at a considerably large and spacious
town, called _Bajiebo_, which is inhabited by Nouffie people, though it
is situated on the Yarriba or western side of the river. For dirt,
bustle, and nastiness of all kinds, this place, we think, can scarcely
be exceeded. For two hours after our arrival we were obliged to wait in
a close and diminutive hut, till a more convenient and becoming
habitation could be procured for our reception, and the pleasure of the
chief with regard to us should be known. Here we were visited by a
number of the inhabitants, consisting both of Falàtahs and _Noufanchie_
(Nouffie people). Among the former was a sagacious and intelligent old
man, who has travelled a long, long way on the Niger, even beyond
Timbuctoo; and he states, that that town is several miles from the banks
of the river. We were sadly incommoded by these visitors, who scarcely
allowed us to move or breathe; which, joined to the heat of the weather
and the insufferable stench, rendered our situation truly comfortless
and distressing.
We were at length removed from this horrible hole, and conducted to a
hut in the heart of the town, in which wood fires had been burning the
whole of the day, so that the wall was almost as warm as the sides of a
heated oven, insomuch that it could hardly be endured. Yet, to render it
more unpleasant still, a large, closely-woven mat was placed before the
door-way, in order to prevent a thousand eyes from staring in upon us;
this excluded every breath of air. Our feelings, during the whole of the
night, were more distressing than can be conceived: we were almost
suffocated with the closeness and intense heat of the room; and dreamt
that we were being baked alive in an oven. It appears that this town is
governed by two chiefs, separate and distinct from each other, one of
whom is a Nouffie man, and the other a Falàtah; for in the afternoon,
each of these individuals sent us a bowl of rice as a present.
Bajiebo is a flourishing and important trading town although not walled,
and one of the largest and most populous that we have yet seen. A
considerable traffic is carried on by its inhabitants with their
countrymen on the opposite side of the river, for which purpose they
have a great number of canoes of large dimensions, which are continually
employed every day in crossing from side to side. Their huts are erected
so close to each other, and with so little regard to comfort and a free
circulation of air, that there is scarcely a foot-path in the town wide
enough for more than one man to walk on at a time: and not having the
advantage of shady trees, the heat of the town is excessive and
distressing. Its uncleanness, filth, and extreme nastiness have already
been alluded to; and the odour emitted from the dirty streets is
offensive, and almost insupportable. The people formerly inhabited a
town on the opposite bank of the Niger, but as was the case with those
of Layaba, they were induced, or rather compelled to settle here, on
account of the commotions occasioned by the civil wars, and like them,
too, they have been found out by their greatest enemies.
[Illustration: _Nouffie Canoe_]
The power of the Falàtahs here is evidently very great. One of their
number is styled chief, and has more authority and influence than the
native Ruler. We have been obliged to make a present to each of these
individuals, and other high and mighty personages were likewise desirous
of obtaining a similar favour at our hands, but we made light of their
conversation and would not understand their enigmas.
We have seen to-day several large canoes, the bottom of which is made of
a single tree and built up with planks to a considerable height. In many
of them sheds, or houses as they are called, have been erected, which
are thatched with straw, and in which fires are kindled, food prepared,
and people sleep, and indeed live altogether. The roof is circular, and
formed in much the same manner as the upper part of a covered waggon in
England. These sheds are of the most essential service to the natives,
as, with their assistance, merchants are enabled to travel with some
degree of comfort, with their wives and household, several days’ journey
up and down the Niger, without being under the necessity of landing,
except to purchase provisions, or whenever they feel inclined to do so.
As the people have nothing that equals or answers to pitch, hemp, or
tar, they use iron staples for the purpose of repairing it and keeping
the planks together when a canoe becomes leaky, or any part of it, as it
frequently happens, is split by exposure to the rays of the sun. We have
seen an old canoe, which had undergone repairs several times, with no
less than from eight to ten thousand of these staples driven into her
sides and bottom.
Our course to-day has been about S.b.E. The thermometer has been at 70°,
90° and 95°.
_Tuesday, October 5th._—Before sunrise this morning, our luggage was
removed to the beach, and between six and seven o’clock we were once
more upon the water. Just below the town of _Bajiebo_ the Niger spreads
itself into two noble branches, of nearly equal width, formed by an
island. We preferred journeying on the eastern branch, but for no
particular reason. The country beyond the banks was very fine. The
island in the middle of the river, is small, but verdant, woody, and
handsome; and we passed by the side of it in a very few minutes, with
considerable velocity. It was then that both banks presented the most
delightful appearance. They were embellished with mighty trees and
elegant shrubs, which were clad in thick and luxuriant foliage, some of
lively green, and others of darker hues; and little birds were singing
merrily among their branches. Magnificent festoons of creeping plants,
always green, hung from the tops of the tallest trees, and drooping to
the water’s edge, formed immense natural grottoes, pleasing and grateful
to the eye, and seemed to be fit abodes for the Naiades of the river!
Yet with all its allurements there is something wanting in an African
scene to render it comparable in interest and beauty to an English
landscape.
‘By secret charms our native land attracts.’
There is nothing here half so attractive or inspiring. It is seldom,
very seldom, that the morn is ushered in by the ‘song of earliest
birds;’ which is so eminently enchanting at home, and which induces so
much happiness and cheerfulness, benevolence and joy. Here there are no
verdant fields, nor hedges, adorned with the jessamine, the daisy, the
primrose, the blue-bottle, or the violet, and the hundred other pretty
wild flowers, which please the sight, and exhale in spring-time or
summer the most grateful and delicious fragrance. No flowers here
‘Waste their sweetness in the desert air,’
for not a solitary one is any where to be seen. Besides, generally
speaking, a loneliness, a solemnity, a death-like silence pervades the
noblest and most magnificent prospects, which has a tendency to fill the
mind with associations of sadness, and reflections of melancholy, very
opposite to the silent cheerfulness, and that internal springing joy
which we feel on contemplating those goodly and charming landscapes,
which are the pride, the beauty, and the ornament of England. To look at
the cleanliness of our cottages, and the tidiness of their occupants is
pleasant; but when the dirty mud huts of the natives of this part of the
world, with the people themselves, do appear, in our opinion, they
banish every favourable impression, and destroy the effect of all.
In the course of an hour after leaving Bajiebo, we passed by two towns
of considerable extent, and a hill was observed right a-head of us,
covered with trees, one of which was of such singular appearance, that
it might easily be mistaken at a short distance for a tall pole, with a
flag unfurled, and waving at the top of it.
At a little before eight in the morning, we saw, and passed along at the
base of a high pile of loose granite rocks, large and dark-coloured,
which are on the Nouffie or eastern side of the river; and almost close
to them and on the edge of the water is a small town. In about a half-
hour afterwards we arrived at an extensive town, situated on the same
side, and called _Leechee_, which is inhabited by Noufanchie, and said
to be a place of considerable rank and consequence. Here we landed by
express desire, and finding an empty grass hut near the spot, we entered
and took possession of it till such time as the chief should be made
acquainted with our arrival. Here also our canoe-men left us and
returned to Bajiebo, where we had hired them.
We were not suffered to wait long, but in a few minutes received an
invitation from the chief to come and see him; and having walked through
a good part of the town, we at length approached his residence, and were
introduced without ceremony or hindrance into a large and lofty hut,
where we discovered the chief sitting on a platform of mud, in great
state, with about forty natives and Falàtahs in earnest conversation on
each side of him. He received us with great civility and many
demonstrations of gladness, and desired us to draw near his person, that
he might have a better opportunity of looking at and talking to us.
However he appeared unwilling for us to quit _Leechee_ till to-morrow,
and pressed us strongly to remain with him for the day, which, however,
not all his solicitations and importunities could induce us to accede
to. A Falàtah then commenced a long and pithy harangue, in which he
endeavoured to prejudice the chief and those that were with him against
us, and to fill their minds with alarm and apprehension, on account of
our malevolence, and the extraordinary power which he said we possessed;
but his eloquence was unavailing, for we had the consolation to hear one
of his own companions and countrymen desire him to hold his tongue, and
mind his own business, and consequently his remarks were soon forgotten.
We had provided ourselves with a small present for the chief on our
first setting out for his residence, but after what we had seen and
heard, we fancied that it was too trifling, and feared that it would be
returned as such by the chief, and that we should be exposed to abuse
and ribaldry from those that were with him; therefore something was
added to the gift before we presented it. We then took our leave of him
and his people, and instantly made our way back to the water-side, where
we waited in the grass hut, what appeared to us to be a long, long time,
for the appearance of the canoemen with whom the chief had promised to
supply us. In this interval, the governor sent us a pot of honey, a
couple of fine lemons, and a few limes. After a considerable delay, a
man for each canoe could only be procured for us, so that two of our own
people were obliged to supply the place of others as well as they could.
The width of the Niger at Leechee is about three miles, and the
inhabitants have plenty of canoes for the purpose of crossing the river,
for fishing, and for other purposes. About half-past ten we got into our
canoes, which we pushed off the shore, and proceeded at a good rate down
the stream, along the side of a considerable island, which is within
gun-shot of the town; and after passing a large open village, of
respectable appearance, which is on the western bank, we put in at a
small town, a few miles below, also on the Yarriba side of the river,
where we were constrained to go in quest of other canoemen, because
those from Leechee, though they had been with us only forty minutes, and
had certainly not laboured very hard, had refused to proceed with us any
further, nor could all our enticements induce them to forego this
resolution. Here we were detained in our canoes and exposed to the sun
for an hour and a half, in order to obtain fresh canoemen, the
inhabitants of the town being absent in the fields.
Immediately after leaving this town we passed another island, of goodly
appearance, but we understand it is uninhabited. We then came in sight
of a double range of rocky hills, one of which is close to the water,
and both running from north-east to nearly due south. At one P.M. we
were again obliged to put in and land at a small village, which is
situated on an island, for an exchange of canoemen, for, like those from
Leechee, these were unwilling to go a great way from their homes. In an
hour’s time a number of the islanders came down to us, and paddled us to
the opposite side of the river, and from thence along the base of the
hills already alluded to. The appearance of these hills is wild and
gloomy, though highly romantic. Trees of hungry growth and stunted
shrubs, whose foliage seemed for the most part dull and withering, shoot
out of the hollows and interstices, and overhang immense precipices,
whose jagged summits they partly conceal. Indeed, these hills look
dismal and lonesome in the extreme, and seem to be visited only by wild
beasts and birds of prey, or by the shadow of a passing cloud, which
serves to increase, if possible, their dreariness and gloom. On the top
of one of them is a huge and singular block of white stone, which, at a
certain distance, greatly resembles an ancient fortification. We arrived
at the end of our journey, and the termination of the nearer range of
hills, between four and five o’clock in the afternoon, when we landed at
a fishing-town on a small island, which is called _Madjie_, and belongs
to the Noufanchie. Here we were received with cheerfulness by the chief,
who accommodated us with a roomy hut, sent us a quantity of dressed
provisions, and otherwise treated us in the most hospitable manner. The
banks of the river that we have passed to-day are high, and well
cultivated. The direction of the river rather to the eastward of south,
and the distance from this island to Bajiebo about thirty miles. The
thermometer has been at 78°, 92°, 94°, during the day.
_Wednesday, Oct. 6th._—About seven o’clock in the morning we departed
from the island of Madjie, where we had slept, and pursued our journey
down the river, which for a short distance takes a turn to the east, by
the side of another range of hills, and afterwards flows for a number of
miles a little to the southward of east. Near the island of Madjie, the
Niger branches into three streams, and we were recommended to follow the
most easterly, because the other two were neither considered so deep nor
so free from danger.
On leaving the island we journeyed very rapidly down the current for a
few minutes, when, having passed another, we came suddenly in sight of
an elevated rock, which is called _Mount Kesa_ by the natives, and
almost at the same instant we found ourselves abreast of it. It forms a
small island, and is probably not less than three hundred feet in
height, which renders it a conspicuous and remarkable object. It is
excessively steep, and rising out of the river as it does, its
appearance is irresistibly imposing and majestic beyond expression. Its
base is fringed by venerable trees, and less magnificent vegetation,
which also strives to spring forth from its barren and almost naked
sides. The height of Mount Kesa, its solitary position, and the
peculiarity of its form, distinguish it from every other, and render it
an object of more than common interest. It is greatly venerated by the
natives of this part of the country, and, as may readily be imagined,
favours the superstitious notions which are attached to it by a simple
and credulous people, who, like the vulgar of Europe, are fond of the
marvellous. The story attached to Mount Kesa is of a very romantic
nature. The natives believe that a benevolent genius makes the mountain
his favourite and continual abode, and dispenses around him a benign and
heavenly influence. Here the misfortunes of the unhappy are alleviated,
the wants of the needy supplied, and the lamentations of the mourner
turned to joy: sin, sorrow, and suffering are unknown; solemnity gives
place to merriment, and the solicitude of futurity to present enjoyment
and thoughtless jocularity. But more especially, say the natives, the
weary traveller here finds a refuge from the storm, and a rest from his
toils; here he reposes in the delights of security, and revels in the
comforts of ease. However, to obtain all this, he makes known his wants
and desires to the spirit of the mountain by supplication and prayer,
when they are instantly answered; he receives the most delicate and
excellent food from invisible hands, and when sufficiently invigorated
by refreshment, he is at liberty either to continue his journey or
remain awhile to participate in the blessings of the mountain. Such is
the story we received from these superstitious people of this celebrated
mount. A little to the northward of it is a naked rock, which rises only
a few yards above the surface of the water; but from its insignificance
it is unworthy of particular description.
[Illustration: _Mount Kesey_]
A canoe, in which was a Mahomedan priest, with his women and train, kept
company with us down the river, and Rabba was the place of its
destination. A very spirited competition was for some time maintained
between his canoemen and ours, in regard to the velocity with which they
could impel their respective boats; but that of the priest was three
times larger and heavier than ours, and he was at length constrained to
forego the contest, the odds being so very much against him. This
created a loud laugh and a little cheering on our side, and much
merriment on both. All the canoes then proceeded abreast of each other,
and the whole of the party were on the best possible terms. The priest’s
wives strove to entertain us to the best of their ability with specimens
of their music. One of them played on a four-stringed guitar, and her
companions accompanied the instrument with their voices; and though the
noise was not very melodious, still it was more agreeable to us than
silence; indeed, we were highly pleased with the attempt of these sooty
ladies, for how rude soever the performance may be, music has oftentimes
a pleasant and soothing influence.
At nine in the morning we landed near a small town to procure a fresh
supply of canoemen, and we waited for them above an hour, without
visiting the adjacent village. As soon as we had obtained them we
journeyed along the eastern side of the river; and, at eleven A.M.,
perceived the smoke of the far-famed Rabba ascending many miles before
us. In another half-hour we drew near an island, called _Belee_, which
is exceedingly low, flat, and swampy. Here we stopped at a large, but
mean and dirty-looking town, which stands close to the water’s edge.
We were shortly introduced to the chief, who is a great, rich, and
important personage, if we may believe the representations of our
messenger. He informed us, that Mohamed, the Magīa’s son, who had left
us at Patàshie, had returned from his father, in pursuance of his
agreement, but, instead of remaining at Rabba, as we expected, he had
come over to Belee, and been waiting three days on the island, in
expectation of our arrival. However, having heard in the earlier part of
the morning that we were to have slept at Madjie last night, he
instantly left Belee in a canoe, and proceeded up the river to meet us.
For ourselves we had neither heard nor seen anything either of him or
his canoe. The governor further said, you will be obliged to remain at
Belee till Mohamed’s return to the island, for he has news of importance
to communicate to you; to-morrow morning you will leave hence, and
proceed to another island, which is further down the river, wherein it
is arranged that you shall abide till your affairs be finally adjusted.
There was some mystery about this, which was unexpected and not very
gratifying.
It was nearly evening before Mohamed returned to Belee, and he came to
us in a dripping state, with an excuse that he had been upset in his
canoe two or three times. After the first salutations were over, he
informed us of his visit to his father, and its result. The Magīa had
desired him to assure us of his ‘best wishes in our welfare, and his
determination to protect, support, and encourage us, as far as he was
able.’ Mohamed then drew our attention to a young man who had entered
the hut with him, but whom we had not before observed, and introduced
him as a messenger sent to us by the Falàtah prince of Rabba. This man
said that his master, named Mallam Dendo, had commissioned him to
acquaint us, that he heartily concurred with the king of Nouffie in the
favourable opinions and sentiments which the latter entertained for us.
With respect to our visiting Rabba, which he understood we were very
much disinclined to do, he should not urge us; and rather imagined that
we should be more comfortable and enjoy greater tranquillity on an
island on the opposite side of the river, where he would recommend us to
stop. The chief of Belee had previously made us acquainted with this
arrangement. The Falàtah messenger concluded by observing that we should
be visited on the morrow by the ‘_King of the Dark Water!_’ who would
escort us to the island in question, of which he is governor.
In the evening the chief of Belee made us a present of a quantity of
goora nuts, a large pot of honey, a sheep, and dressed provisions in
abundance, with a huge calabash of sour beer. He boasted that he was the
king of Nouffie’s head slave, and a mighty man of valour; and artfully
insinuated that he expected a present from us in proportion to his rank
and eminence. But we have seen such numbers of kings, princes, and great
men lately, that we are heartily disgusted with all who bear the
epithet; they are so numerous, that they would be as difficult to count
as the drops of rain in a heavy shower.
The thermometer has been at 79°, 92°, and 94° during the day.
The course of the river from Madjie to this island has been to the S.E.,
the distance about twelve miles. The eastern or Nouffie bank of the
river is moderately high, and overspread with low hills, and both banks
are well cultivated.
_Thursday, October 7th._—So early as five o’clock in the morning our
canoes were loaded, and having breakfasted on a slice of yam, we were
fully prepared to quit the island. But as it was not deemed either
politic or proper to go away till the arrival of the great _King of the
Dark Water_, who was hourly expected, and who might be inclined to
construe our departure into contempt, we consented to await his coming.
Though we have been exposed to a thousand nuisances, and all manner of
inconveniences, and are pretty well reconciled to them all, yet rather
than remain in a close black hut, full of men, whose garments are
generally covered with vermin, and rarely, if ever, cleaned, and who
make it a common practice to sit on the mat whereon we sleep; rather
than do this, we stepped into our canoes, and having pushed off from the
land, we waited the islander’s arrival under the branches of a large
tree at a little distance from the town.
Between nine and ten, A.M., we heard a number of men singing, and
keeping time to the motion of many paddles, but we could see no one.
However, in a very few minutes, a canoe, which was paddled by a few men
only, came in sight, and we knew by this that the Water King was
approaching. It was instantly followed by another, and much larger one,
propelled by above twenty very fine young men, whose voices we had been
listening to just before, and who were still continuing their song.
Their music was slower, but very similar to that which may be heard on
many parts of the western coast. The _King of the Dark Water_ was with
them. As the canoe drew nearer we were not only surprised at its
extraordinary length and uncommon neatness, but likewise at the unusual
display of pomp and show which we observed in her. In the centre a mat
awning was erected, which was variously decorated, and on the front of
it hung a large piece of scarlet cloth, ornamented with bits of gold
lace stitched on different parts of it. In the bow of the canoe were
three or four little boys, of equal size, who were clad with neatness
and propriety; and in the stern sat a number of comely-looking
musicians, consisting of several drummers and a trumpeter, whilst the
young men who had the management of the boat were not inferior to their
companions either in decency of apparel or respectability of appearance.
They all looked in fact extremely well.
As soon as this canoe arrived at the landing-place, the ‘Water King’
came out from beneath the awning, and, followed by the musicians and a
suite of attendants, walked to the hut wherein all public matters are
transacted, and whither, in a few minutes, we ourselves were desired to
repair. The chief of the island, with his elders and the more
respectable of the people, were seated, on our entrance, on each side of
their important visitor, and my brother and I, as a mark of distinction,
were invited to place ourselves in front of him. When the usual
compliments had passed on both sides, he informed us, with much
solemnity, of his rank and title; he then alluded to the cause of his
coming, which, he said, was to do us honour, and repeated what had
previously been told us by the king’s son. This being done, he presented
us with a pot of excellent honey, and two thousand cowries in money,
besides a large quantity of goora nuts, which are cultivated in the
country, and which are held in so great esteem, that the opulent and
powerful alone have the means of procuring them. Having nothing further
to say or do, we shook hands with his sable majesty, whose name is
Suliken Rouah, expressed our acknowledgments for his handsome present,
and returned to our boats.
The ‘King of the Dark Water’ is a fine-looking man, well stricken in
years; his skin as black as a coal; his features are coarse but
benevolent, and his stature advantageous and commanding. He was dressed
in a full bornouse, or Arab cloak, of inferior blue cloth, underneath
which was a variegated tobe made of figured satin, country cloth and
crimson silk damask, all patched together; he likewise wore a cap of red
cloth, Hàussa trowsers, and sandals of coloured leather. Two pretty
little boys, about ten years of age and of equal size, and who acted in
capacity of pages, followed him into the hut. Their clothing was neat
and becoming, and their persons nicely clean; each of them was furnished
with an ornamented cow’s tail, and they stood one on his right hand and
the other on his left, to brush away flies and other insects from his
person, and supply him with goora nuts and tobacco. The king was also
accompanied by six of his wives, fine handsome jet-black girls, dressed
in neat country caps edged with red silk. Native cloths, made of cotton
and silk, were fastened round their waists, beneath which they wore a
sort of short frock. The usual custom of staining their fingers and toe-
nails with henna appears to be general among them; their wrists were
ornamented with neat silver bracelets, and their necks with coral
necklaces.
To such a man as the ‘Water King,’ with such a suite and such a title,
the greatest honour is expected to be paid, and we therefore showed our
respect by saluting him with a discharge from two or three muskets; and
by waiting patiently his return from the council-hut, wherein he stayed
two whole hours, during which we were sitting in our canoes, exposed to
a very hot sun, for we had removed them from under the tree by the side
of his own.
It was exactly mid-day when Suliken Rouah re-embarked in his princely
canoe, and quitted the island of Belee. Determined for once to make an
attempt at a more respectable appearance, for heretofore it had been
extremely mean and homely, we hastily constructed an awning of our
sheets. It was the first time we had made use of such a thing, though we
are without umbrellas, and till then had nothing but slight straw hats
to protect our heads from the sun. Above the awning we elevated a
slender staff, on the top of which we fastened our national colours, the
union flag, which was kindly given us by a gentleman on the coast, who
was commandant of Anamaboo. When unfurled and waving in the wind, it
looked extremely pretty, and it made our hearts glow with pride and
enthusiasm, as we looked on this solitary little banner. We thought it
would be of service to us also if we made as gay an appearance as the
king and his followers; and accordingly I put on an old naval uniform
coat which I had with me for state occasions, and my brother also
dressed himself in as grotesque and gaudy a manner as our resources
would afford. Our eight attendants also put on new white Mahomedan
tobes, so that our canoe, with its white awning surmounted by the union
flag, our canoemen in new dresses, and ourselves appearing as officers,
contributed not a little to the effect of the whole scene. ‘The august
King of the Dark Water,’ with his retinue in twenty canoes,
condescendingly gave us the precedence, and ours was the first that
moved off from land, and led the way down the river towards Rabba.
For a little while we continued to take the lead, but the chief soon
went before us, for two reasons: First, that he might have an
opportunity of looking at us; and secondly, that we might have a fairer
chance of seeing him in all his state, for which purpose he had placed
himself outside his awning on an elevated and conspicuous seat. However
he only wished to get a few yards before us, for his canoemen soon
lifted their paddles out of the water, and the boat fell back to its
former situation. This going before and falling behind was done
repeatedly. The musicians in the large canoe performed merrily on their
instruments, and about twenty persons now sung at intervals in
recitative, keeping excellent time with their paddles.
A brisk wind sprung up the river full in our faces, relieving us from
the extreme heat of the weather, which was remarkably fine; the scene
before us was very animating, and the whole of us were in high glee and
spirits. Other canoes joined us; and never did the British flag lead so
extraordinary a squadron. The ‘King of the Dark Water’ might be mistaken
for a river god; and his wives now and then showing their pretty black
faces from under the awning, cast many an arch look at us with their
sparkling, jetty eyes. It was not long before our reverie was
interrupted by a great noise from the adjacent land; and on turning we
perceived the banks of an island, called _Zagōzhi_, which were lined
with numbers of people, admiring our flag, and watching us very
earnestly, by which we guessed that this was the place of our
destination. The island is so uncommonly low, that the houses and trees
appeared as if they were standing in the water, as indeed many of them
actually were. Here we arrived, and landed between one and two P.M.,
having enjoyed a pleasant excursion of eight or nine miles. Ours being
the first canoe, before we landed on the island we waited for the king
to precede us, and the moment he set his foot on shore, we fired a
salute of four muskets and three pistols. Suliken Rouah was rather
alarmed at this, and demanded whether we were going to make war on him.
He was soon relieved from his fear, by being told it was an honour that
we had been in the habit of paying to all the princes we had met in our
travels; which he no sooner understood, than he expressed himself much
gratified by our attention. Suliken Rouah went in person in quest of a
dwelling-house, and led us to one of the best which the island affords;
however, it is miserably bad; for, as the town is built on a marsh,
every hut in it has the disadvantage, during the whole of the rainy
season, of soft damp floors and uncomfortable roofs. Our own has
positively pools of water springing up out of the ground, and on this we
shall be obliged to sleep. The walls of the huts are built of mud from
the river, strengthened and supported by wooden pillars and ribs of the
same materials: however, these do not prevent them from cracking in a
hundred different places; and large chinks, admitting wind and rain, may
be observed in the wall of every hut. They all have, indeed, invariably,
a very dirty and wretched appearance, though their inmates, generally
speaking, are understood to be opulent, clean, and respectable. Having
conducted us to our hut, the chief of the island shook hands very
heartily with us, and assured us that we should want nothing. He soon
provided us with doors of bamboo for our hut, and a number of mats to
spread on the floor, which made it tolerably comfortable. In the
evening, four large calabashes of stewed rice, with fowls and no less
than ten gallons of _pitto_ or country beer were sent us. About seven in
the evening, messengers arrived from Rabba, to inform us that they
should come early in the morning for the presents we intended for the
chief. They said that the king would not put us to the trouble of going
to see him, as the town is full of Arabs, whose begging propensities
would be very inconvenient to us. I was much pleased with this
intelligence, knowing very well the character of these Arabs; and I sent
word back that I was much obliged to him, and should be still more so if
he would dispense with my going to the sansan or camp at a short
distance from the town to visit the King of Nouffie.
_Rabba_ is opposite Zagōzhi, and appears from hence, a distance of two
miles, to be an immensely large, populous, and flourishing town. It is
built on the slope of a gentle hill, and on a spot almost entirely bare
of trees. The Niger, both yesterday and to-day, has flowed in a
direction to the south of east.