Shelley, referred to, 234
Shooting jaunt, a, 375 _et seq._
Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," 291
Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67
Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182
Smith (Rev. Sydney), his _mot_ on pâté de foie gras, 158;
gastronomic anecdote of, 249;
his _mot_ on the pheasant, 286;
his poem on roast mutton, 290;
on fanatics, 294;
his poem on salad, 412
Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445
Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411
Société des Mereredis, 118, 129, 130
Solomon, his table, 11
Sora, or rail (the), 360
Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37
Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150;
aux choux, 224;
croûte-au-pot, 224, 275;
Julienne, 281;
first mention of, 281
"Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62
Soups, German, 167
Southey, referred to, 232
Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210
Spartan black broth, 13
Spätzle, 167
Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126
Speisekarte, a typical, 154
Spenser, quoted, 235;
referred to, 238
Sport. _Vide_ chapter "The Spoils of the Cover"
Stimulants, before dinner, 196
Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, 5;
its offices, 267, 317, 319
Strawberries _vs._ gout, 143, 432
---- ---- ---- (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, 296-299
Sweetmeats, 379
Sweet potato, 256
Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, 89
Tables volantes, 62
Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, 69, 202
Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, 388
Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, 181-184;
influence of smell on, 182
Teniers, referred to, 6, 445
Tennyson, referred to, 316
Thackeray, referred to, 159, 195, 387;
as a gastronomer, 315, 329;
quoted, 327, 340
Thomson, quoted, 238
Thoreau, on the mushroom, 402, 403
Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, 43;
as an epicure, 44;
his fondness for cucumbers, 425
Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, 293
Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, 283
Toasts, form of, among the ancients, 27
Tobacco, introduction of, 28
Total abstainer, anecdote of a, 265;
abstinence, poem on, 295
Total abstainers _vs._ guests, 263-266;
brandied peaches, 433
Trimalchio, dinner of, 35
Trout, brook, best sauce for, 181;
of the English chalk-streams, 364;
American _vs._ the European, 365
"Truffe (De la)," 394
"Truffe (La)," 390
Truffles, 143, 159, 210, 235, 434;
species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature,
and phenomena of. _Vide_ chapter "Two Esculents par
excellence"
Turbot (the), 33
Turkey, a truffled, 122, 304, 385;
history of the, 304, 305;
wild, 369-370;
wild _vs._ the domestic, 369, 370
Turtle feasts, American, 267
Ude, referred to, 6, 106, 190, 207
Uhland, referred to, 163, 166
Ulric (St.), festival of, 308
Urbain-Dubois, referred to, 199, 226
Van Mieris, referred to, 197
Vatel, referred to, 6, 54, 58, 130;
on carving, 59
Vegetables, used by the ancients, 9, 10, 28, 29;
poor cookery of, in Great Britain, 272;
importance of good, 330
Verneuil (G. de), referred to, 130
Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, 221;
on the restaurant, 339
Verres, referred to, 43
Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, 214
Vienna roll (the), origin of, 171
Vincent La Chapelle, 61
Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, 282
Virgil, referred to, 234
Vitellius, referred to, 43, 44
Vol-au-vent à la financière, 203;
inventor of, 48
Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, 71
Vuillemot, referred to, 212, 213
Walker (Thos.), 106, 195, 319 _et seq._;
as a gastronomer, 326
Walton (Isaac), referred to, 81
Ward (Artemus), his _mot_ on hasty pudding, 134;
his _mot_ on pies, 437
Weenix, referred to, 234, 445
Wheat, original home of, 9
Wheatears, 335, 361
White (Gilbert), referred to, 243, 272;
quoted, 360
Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, 328, 387
Whitefish (the), 45
Wines, of the ancients, 13, 17, 30, 40;
of the ancient Romans, 30;
in use in England, 96-98;
difficulty of testing, 135;
German, 168;
of old Alsace, 159;
brut champagne, 262, 431;
importance of good, 262, 264, 265;
champagne, 262, 270, 323, 337, 438;
champagne, its virtues, 283, 379;
their relation to the clergy, 282, 291, 293, 295, 309 _et seq._;
"Est, Est, Est," history of, 310 _et seq._;
importance of a sufficient variety, 322-323;
their relation to game, 356, 372;
to truffles and mushrooms, 394, 408;
Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, 427;
as a medium of hygiene, 444
Woman, jealousy of, 14;
imitating man's excesses, 46;
Talleyrand's precept regarding, 79;
compared to peaches, 119;
as gastronomers, 125, 343, 351;
La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, 139;
created for the selfish wishes of man, 174;
her fondness for sweetmeats, 174, 429, 430, 433;
Savarin's references to, 192;
as an addition to a shooting-party, 192-193, 378;
a French toast to, 283;
as an adjunct to the dinner, 320;
disadvantages of dining with, 338, 340;
in the eighteenth century, 347;
how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, 350, 429;
a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, 351;
Balzac's reference to, 351;
the wise one defined, 351;
_vs._ champagne, 379, 429;
compared to mushrooms, 398;
pretty one should mix a salad, 420;
her relation to cookery, 429;
a foil for man's mistakes, 431;
as a garnish to an omelette, 432;
her pet tipples in colonial times, 438, 439
Woodcock, 355, 359, 365, 366, 376
Wordsworth, referred to, 240
Yellowshank (the), 361
Yuan Mei, quoted, 6
FOOTNOTES:
[1] That the onion, garlic, and radish were held in particular esteem
is attested by Herodotus, who says in his time (450 B.C.) there was
an inscription on the Great Pyramid, stating that a sum amounting to
sixteen hundred talents had been paid out for these three forms of
food, which had been consumed by the workmen during the progress of its
erection.
[2] The world has scarcely been as liberal to literature as to
gastronomy; although the graceful French poet, the Abbé Philippe
Desportes, who so celebrated his mistresses Diane, Hypolite and
Cléonice in verse, was munificently rewarded for his lyrical talent by
Henry III, and presented besides with an abbey worth an annual rental
of ten thousand crowns for having written a sonnet which captivated the
Duc de Joyeuse, brother-in-law of the king.
[3] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.
[4] Sir Theodore Martin's transl.
[5] Tobacco, unknown to the ancients, did not come into use among
Asiatic and European peoples until the latter half of the sixteenth
century, or a long period after the discovery of America--nearly all
its species being of American origin. Its name, Nicotiana, was derived
from that of John Nicot of Nismes, ambassador from the King of France
to Portugal, who procured the first seeds from a Dutchman who had them
from Florida.
[6] Rev. Philip Francis' transl.
[7] "My red wing gives me my name; but it is my tongue that is
considered savory by epicures. What if my tongue had been able to
sing?"--MARTIAL, Epigrams: "The Flamingo."
[8] The Duc de Montausier used to say, _Qu'a sa tenue de convive on
reconnaissait un gentilhomme_.
[9] Les Delices de la Campagne. Suitte du Jardinier françois ov est
enseigne a preparer pour l'vsage de la vie tout ce qui croist sur la
Terre & dans les Eaux. Dedie avx dames Mesnageres. À Paris, chez Pierre
Des-Hayes, 1654.
[10] The cause assigned to Vatel's death has been disputed, some having
maintained it was not owing to the non-arrival of the fish, but because
on cooking the fish they were found "not to be so fresh as they might
be."
[11] Les Soupers de la Cour, ou l'art de travailler toutes sortes
d'alimens. Pour servir les meilleures Tables, suivant les quatre
Saisons. A Paris chez Guillyn, Libraire, 1755.
[12] L'Art du Cuisinier, par A. Beauvilliers, Ancien Officier de
Monsieur, comte de Provence, Attaché aux Extraordinaires des Maisons
Royales et actuellement Restaurateur, rue de Richelieu, No. 26 à la
grande Taverne de Londres. A Paris, chez Pillet Ainé, 1814, 2 vols.
[13]
Défendez que personne, an milieu d'un banquet, Ne vous vienne donner un
avis indiscret; Ecartez ce facheux qui vers vous s'achemine--Rien ne
doit déranger l'honnête homme qui dîne.
[14] L'Art de dîner en ville à l'usage des gens de lettres, poème en
iv chants. Seconde édition revue et corrigée. Paris, Delaunay; Colnet,
1810.
[15] Herrick, "Hesperides."
[16] The English housewife; containing the inward and outward Vertues
which ought to be in a compleat Woman; as to her skill in Physicke,
Cookery, Ordering of Great Feasts, etc., etc. London, 1631.
[17] Elizabeth Robins Pennell: "The Feasts of Autolycus."
[18] The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, which far Exceeds Every
Thing of the Kind Ever yet Published. By a Lady. London: Printed for
the Author; and sold at Mrs. Ashburn's, a China Shop, the Corner of
Fleet Ditch.
[19] Almanach des Gourmands, Suivant de Guide Dans Les Moyens de faire
excellente Chère; Par Un Viel Amateur. Troisième Edition. Revue,
Corrigée et Considérablement Augmentée. A Paris. Chez Maradan, rue
Pavés-Saint-André-des-Arcs, 1804, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808. Chez
Joseph Chaumerot, Libraire, au Palais Royal, Galeries de Bois, 1810,
1812.
[20] Manuel des Amphitryons; contenant Un Trait de la Dissection des
viandes à table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus nouveaux pour
chacque saison, et des Elémens de la Politesse gourmande. Ouvrage
indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère, et de
la faire faire aux autres. Orné d'un grand nombre de Planches gravées
en taille-douce. Par l'Auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands. A Paris,
Chez Capelle et Renand, MDCCCVIII.
[21] "We shall never forget a dinner that eight of us had at M.
Tailleur's, in which he made us drink forty bottles of his best wine of
all kinds, and each service of which attested the competent master of
the alimentary art."
L'ALMANACH, 4^{me} année, p. 152.
[22]
(In depths of Seidels tall we Germans find our power, As did in years
agone our ancestors of yore; For in the noble barley-wine there lingers
still a might divine.)
[23] L'Ancienne Alsace à Table. Etude Historique et Archéologique sur
l'Alimentation, les Mœurs et les Usages Epulaires de l'ancienne
Province d'Alsace: par Charles Gérard, Avocat à la Cour Impériale de
Colmar. Colmar, Imprimerie et Lithographie de Camille Decker, 1862.
Large 8vo, pp. 269.
[24] Diese Zahl bedeutet die ununterbrochenen Dienstjahre der betr.
Kellnerin.
[25] It should be distinctly stated that the rendition is by the late
Rev. Francis Mahony (_requiescat in pace!_). Recalling his scathing
stricture on "The Rogueries of Tom Moore," one were unwise not to
mention the name of the scholarly paraphrast and poet, for fear that he
might arise to wreak summary vengeance. But inasmuch as no authorship
is assigned to the poem by the versatile bard, and as one must be on
guard most of the time against the subtile spirit of fun and malice
which pervades his pages, it is probable that both the French song and
the rendition are by the same accomplished hand.
[26]
"Es lohnet mir heute Mit doppelter Beute Ein gutes Geschick; Der
redliche Diener Bringt Hasen und Hühner Zur Küche zurück; Hier find
ich gefangen, Auch Vogel noch hangen. Es lebe der Jäger, Es lebe sein
Glück!"
[27] The reader who is interested in pastoral luncheons and all their
possibilities should compare the "Halts of a Shooting Party" with the
chapter entitled "Des Parties de Campagne Gourmandes" in the fourth
volume of the "Almanach des Gourmands."
[28] "Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, par Alexandre Dumas. Paris,
Alphonse Lemerre, Editeur, Passage Choiseul, 1873."
[29] "Propos d'Art et de Cuisine."
[30] Rev. Joseph A. Ely's transl.
[31] "Le Gastronome Français" (1828). G. D. L. R., "De La Truffe."
[32] "Roti-Cochon ou Méthode Très-Facile pour bien apprendre les
Enfants a Lire en Latin et en Francais, par des Inscriptions moralement
expliquées de plusieurs Representations figurées de différentes choses
de leurs connoissances; très utile et meme necessaire, tant pour la vie
& le salut, que pour la gloire de Dieu. A Dijon, chez Claude Michard,
Imprimeur & Marchand Libraire à Saint Jean l'Evangéliste."
[33] "The English system of cookery it would be impertinent for me
to describe; but still, when I think of that huge round of parboiled
ox-flesh, with sodden dumplings floating in a saline, greasy mixture,
surrounded by carrots looking red with disgust and turnips pale with
dismay, I cannot help a sort of inward shudder, and making comparisons
unfavourable to English gastronomy."--MEMOIRS OF A STOMACH. Written by
Himself. London, 1853.
[34] "Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine," by W. Carew Hazlitt,
London, Elliot Stock, 1886.
[35] "Lo Scalco prattico di Vittorio Lancellotti da Camerino
All'Illustrissimo, e Reuerendiss. Prencipe il Card. Ippolito
Aldobrandino Camerlengo di Santa Chiesa. In _Roma Appresso Francesco
Corbelletti_. 1627."
[36] Cardinal Bonnechose, who was most appropriately surnamed, is
especially remembered for his bon-mot, "Le clergé est un régiment; il
faut qu'il marche."
[37]
Whither, 'midst falling dew, While glow the heavens with the last steps
of day, Far through their rosy depths dost thou pursue Thy solitary way?
Vainly the fowler's eye Might mark thy distant flight to do thee wrong,
As, darkly painted on the crimson sky, Thy figure floats along....
BRYANT: Lines to a Waterfowl.
[38] Mme. Récamier.
[39]
"Hart an dem Bolsener See, Auf des Flaschenberges Hoh', Steht ein
kleiner Leichenstein Mit der kurzen Inschrift drein: _Propter nimium
Est, Est, Dominus meus mortuus est!_
"Unter diesem Monument, Welches keinen Namen nennt, Ruht ein Herr von
deutschem Blut, Deutschem Schlund und deutschem Mut, Der hier starb den
schönsten Tod--Seine Schuld vergeb' ihm Gott!"
[40] "The Cook's Oracle; Containing Receipts for Plain Cookery on the
Most Economical Plan for Private Families, etc. The Fourth Edition.
London: Printed for A. Constable & Co. 1822."
[41] "The Original, by the Late Thomas Walker, M.A., Trinity College,
Cambridge. Fifth Edition. Edited by Wm. A. Guy. London, Henry Renshaw,
1875."
[42] "The Art of Dining, or Gastronomy and Gastronomers. London: John
Murray, Albemarle Street, 1852." 12mo, pp. 137.
[43] "Dinners and Diners, Where and How to Dine in London. By
Lieut.-Col. Newnham-Davis. A New Enlarged and Revised Edition. London:
Grant Richards, 1901." Chapters LIII, pp. 376.
[44] "L'Hygiene des Hommes livrés aux Travaux de l'Esprit."
[45] "The Feasts of Autolycus--The Diary of a Greedy Woman. Edited by
Elizabeth Robins Pennell. London: John Lane. New York: The Merriam Co.
1896."
[46] _Coulis_--a thick gravy, and also a term formerly applied to the
fundamental sauces.
[47] "L'Art Culinaire."
[48] "All the entrées having the name Bayonnaises (a corrupt
term for Mahonnoise) were the invention of the Maréchal, Duc de
Richelieu."--MANUEL DES AMPHITRYONS.
[49] The recipes for sauce _à la Richelieu_ and Francatelli's sauce are
presented respectively in the following and in a previous chapter.
[50] "Those which feed much on cantharides require to be very carefully
cleaned, otherwise persons eating them are liable to suffer severely.
Several gentlemen of New Orleans have assured me that they have seen
persons at dinner obliged to leave the room at once, under such
circumstances as cannot well be described."--AUDUBON: The Birds of
America.
[51] "La Petite-Cuisine."
[52] "I have not defined the truffle as yet, but the definition of this
_subterranean mushroom which embraces within its outer covering the
sporangiums filled until spores subsequently destined to reproduce it_,
is the result of all I have said."--IBID.: La Truffe. Etude sur les
Truffes et les Truffières. Par le Dr. C. de Ferry de la Bellone, Ancien
Président de la Société de Médecine de Vaucluse, Président du Comice
Agricole, etc., etc. Paris, Librairie J. B. Baillière et Fils, 1888.
8vo, pp. 312.
[53] "De la Truffe, Traite Complet de ce Tubercle, contenant sa
Description et son Histoire Naturelle la plus détaillée, son
Exploitation Commerciale et sa Position dans l'Art Culinaire; suivi
d'une Quatrième Partie contenant les meilleurs moyens d'employer les
truffes en apprêts culinaires; les meilleures méthodes d'en faire
des conserves certaines; les indications, recettes et moyens les
plus positifs et les plus compliqués stir tout ce qui concerne cette
substance; par M. M. Moynier. Paris, Barba. 1836." pp. 400.
[54] "Our Edible Toadstools and Mushrooms, and How to Distinguish Them.
A Selection of Thirty Native Food Varieties Easily Recognizable by
Their Marked Individualities, with Simple Rules for the Identification
of Poisonous Species. By W. Hamilton Gibson. With Thirty Colored Plates
and Fifty-seven Other Illustrations by the Author. New York, Harper &
Brothers, Publishers, 1895."
[55] "Annual Report of the State Botanist of the State of New York.
Made to the Regents of the University, Pursuant to Chapter 355 of the
Laws of 1883. By Charles H. Peck. Albany, James B. Lyon, Publisher,
1895. Second Edition, 1897."
[56] "Studies of American Fungi, Mushrooms Edible, Poisonous, etc. By
George Francis Atkinson, Professor of Botany in Cornell University
and Botanist of the Cornell University Experiment Station, Author
of 'Studies and Illustrations of Mushrooms,' 'Biology of Ferns,'
'Elementary Botany,' 'Lessons in Botany.' With a Chapter on Recipes
for Cooking Mushrooms, by Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer; on the Chemistry and
Toxicology of Mushrooms, by J. F. Clark; on the Structural Characters
of Mushrooms, by H. Hasselbring. With 200 Photographs by the Author,
and Coloured Plates by F. R. Rathbun. Ithaca, N. Y.: Andrus and Church,
Publishers, 1900."
[57] "Toadstools, Mushrooms, Fungi, Edible and Poisonous. One Thousand
American Fungi. How to Select and Cook the Edible; How to Distinguish
and Avoid the Poisonous, Giving Full Botanic Descriptions Made Easy
for Reader and Student. By Charles McIlvaine, President Philadelphia
Mycological Centre, Honorary Member Salem County and Gloucester County,
N. J., Medical Societies; Assisted by Robert K. Macadam. Toadstool
Poisons and Their Treatment, Instructions to Students, Recipes for
Cooking, etc., etc. Indianapolis, U. S. A.: The Bowen-Merrill Company,
Publishers. Edition limited to 750 copies."
[58]
"Two large potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve, Unwonted softness
to the salad give. Of mordant mustard add a single spoon, Distrust
the condiment that bites so soon; But deem it not, thou man of herbs,
a fault To add a double quantity of salt. Three times the spoon with
oil from Lucca crown, And once with vinegar procured from town.
True flavour needs it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two
well-boiled eggs; Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, And, scarce
suspected, animate the whole. And, lastly, on the flavoured compound
toss A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce. Then though green turtle fail,
though venison's tough, And ham and turkey are not boiled enough,
Serenely full, the epicure may say, 'Fate cannot harm me, I have dined
to-day.'"
[59] "As for the pepper, never use the powdered pepper that you buy at
the grocer's and which has generally lost its flavour before it reaches
the depths of the pepper-caster. The only pepper worthy to titillate
the papillæ of a civilised man is that ground out of the peppercorn, at
the moment of use, in a little hand-mill."--THEODORE CHILD: Delicate
Feasting.
[60] "The Story of My House": "A Blue-Violet Salad."
[61] "Jam! jam! I yield me to thy potent charm."
Transcriber's Note:
1. Original spelling has been retained.
2. Punctuation and obvious spelling errors have been corrected.
3. Superscripts are shown as ^{xx} or ^x.
4. Italics are shown as _xxx_.
5. Bold script is shown as =xxx=.