After observing the inscriptions and ornaments of the palaces and other
public buildings, the new method of decorating the churches, the number
of Mercuries, Apollos, Minervas, and Cupids, that are to be met with in
this country, a stranger might be led to suspect, that the Christian
religion was exploded from the Prussian dominions, and old Jupiter and
his family restored to their ancient honours.
There is an equestrian statue of William, the Great Elector, on the
new bridge over the Spree. This is highly esteemed as a piece of fine
workmanship.—In the corner of one of the squares, is a statue of Marshal
Schwerin. He is represented holding the ensign with which he advanced
at the famous battle of Prague.—Perceiving his troops on the point of
giving way, he seized this from the officer’s hands whose duty it was
to carry it, and marched towards the enemy, calling out, Let all but
cowards follow me. The troops, ashamed to abandon their general, charged
once more, and turned the fortune of the day.—But the brave old Marshal
was killed, in the eighty-fourth year of his age.—Do not you think the
trouble of living so long was amply repaid by such a death?
Instead of saints or crucifixes, the King intends, that the churches
of Berlin shall be ornamented with the portraits of men who have been
useful to the state. Those of the Marshals Schwerin, Keith, Winterfield,
and some others, are already placed in the great Lutheran church.
The society into which strangers may be admitted in this capital, is not
various or extensive. The Prussian officers of the higher ranks, whose
time is not entirely engrossed, like that of their inferiors, by the
duties of their profession, live mostly with their own families, or with
each other. Exclusive of other reasons which might determine them to
this, it is understood, that the King does not approve of their forming
intimacies with foreign ministers, or with strangers.
The D—— of H—— followed the King to Magdeburg to see the reviews there,
and has since made a tour as far as Leipsic, with two English gentlemen.
My connection with him, and the letter I brought from the Duchess of
Brunswick, have procured me invitations, which I should otherwise have
had but a small chance of receiving. I passed a day lately at a very
pleasant villa, about six miles from Berlin, belonging to the King’s
brother, Prince Ferdinand. He is married to a sister of the Princess
of Hesse Cassel’s. The Princess of Prussia was there at the same time,
and Prince Frederick of Brunswick, with his Princess, who is remarkably
pretty. I have the honour of supping sometimes with Prince Frederick, who
lives constantly at Berlin. To the spirit and vivacity common to all his
family, he adds a taste for poetry, and has composed some dramatic pieces
in the French language, which have been represented on a little theatre
in his own house, and in private societies at Berlin.—There has been a
continued round of feasting all the last week.
The Princess of Prussia gave a breakfast at a garden in the Park, to
which a large company was invited. There was dancing, which continued
all the forenoon. Upon all these occasions, I saw none of that state and
ceremony of which the Germans are accused. Those of the highest rank
behaved with the greatest ease and affability to every person present,
and joined in the country-dances, without observing any form or etiquette.
The minister, Count Finkenstein, gave a great dinner and ball, on account
of the marriage of one of his sons. The Count Reuse, and some others,
have also given entertainments; but the chief and permanent society is
to be found at the houses of the foreign ministers who reside here. I
have been introduced to all of them by Mr. Harris, his Majesty’s envoy
extraordinary, who lives here in a style which does honour to his
country and himself.
We have received very great civilities also from Baron Van Swieten,
minister from, the Court of Vienna, a man of wit and erudition. He is
son to the celebrated physician, whose works are so highly esteemed all
over Europe. There are two or three general officers who are pretty often
at the houses of these ministers, and entertain strangers occasionally
at home.—Besides those I have named, there are very few of the King of
Prussia’s servants who have any connection with the strangers that come
to Berlin. I have had the happiness of forming an acquaintance here with
two very agreeable French gentlemen, the Marquis de Laval, son of the
Duke of that name, and the Comte de Clermont, grandson of that Mons.
de Saint Hillaire, whose arm was carried off by the same bullet which
killed Marshal Turenne. You remember the sentiment which St. Hillaire
expressed to his son, who lamented his wound—A sentiment which proved,
that his magnanimity was equal to that of the hero whom he so greatly
preferred to himself.
Adieu.