RENO AND ITS PEOPLE
Reno is named after General Reno, who died in the battle of South
Mountain. It is about two thousand nine hundred miles from New York
City; it takes nearly four days to reach it by train. From Reno to San
Francisco is only about two hundred miles. The altitude is about 4,419
feet: the population twelve thousand. This "big little city" in the
West is modern in every respect: it is the county seat of Washoe
County and the largest city in the State of Nevada.
Reno is located in the greenest of valleys and surrounded by the
Sierra Nevadas, the most majestic mountain range in the United States.
These mountains cover a length of six hundred miles from Mount Jacinto
to Mount Shasta, and a breadth of from seventy-five to one hundred
miles, with long and gradual slopes on the west, cut by deep canons.
The climate of the Sierras is beyond an adequate description: the
beautiful summer days are mild and rainless. The main peaks of the
western range are: Mount King, Mount Gardner and Mount Brewer; those
of the eastern range: Mount Kearsage, Mount Tyndall, Mount Williamson
and Mount Whitney. Mount Whitney is the highest peak in the United
States outside of Alaska, rising 14,898 feet above sea level. The
other main peaks of the Sierra Nevadas exceed 13,000 feet in altitude.
The peaks nearest Reno are: Mount Rose and Peavin Mountain, both of
which can be seen from any part of the City of Reno.
In this setting nestles our much-talked-of "Gem City of Nevada"--the
city of heart-throbs and dreams! Its chief industries, I would say,
are gold and love.... One less poetic might call these mining and
divorce.
Next to its dreamy, romantic side, Reno has a very practical side: its
position as a business center. The railroads radiating north, east,
south and west, give it an enormous tributary territory. There are
modern business blocks, department stores, excellent hotels. The best
hotels are: The Hotel Golden, the Riverside and the Overland.
[Illustration: Lobby of the Golden Hotel]
Reno is a city of beautiful residences, trees and shrubbery; asphalt
and macadam streets. There are fine public buildings, libraries and
theatres of the first magnitude.
One of the most noteworthy features of Reno is its beautiful schools.
There are six besides the High School and the University; Orvis Ring
School, McKinley Park School, Southside School, Mt. Rose School, Mary
S. Doten School and the Babcock Memorial Kindergarten. The
architecture is the "old mission," and it is difficult to decide which
one really excels in beauty. Apart from the beautiful architecture,
these schools are all equipped with every modern device for the
training of the younger generation, both physically and mentally.
Never in any public school have I seen such a splendidly equipped
Domestic Science room as the one in the McKinley Park School. Its
beautiful open, airy Assembly Hall with its hardwood floors and stage
for private theatricals and other social affairs is the acme of modern
refinement. In this hall the "Mothers' Club" holds its meetings, and
the children have their school dances.
The University of Nevada has the best equipped school of Mining
Engineering in the Western States; it also has a summer course on
several interesting subjects, which often is taken advantage of by
many who find time passing slowly, and wish to "brush up a bit."
Among the imposing buildings downtown is the Y. M. C. A., an artistic
and splendidly equipped edifice. It is located on the north bank of
the Truckee, commanding a beautiful view of snow-capped Mount Rose and
Slide Mountain in the distance, above the green of the trees. Part of
this building is devoted to indoor sports and consists of a gymnasium,
conducted by able instructors; a handball court, bowling alleys, pool
and billiard tables and a spacious swimming pool with shower-baths; it
furthermore has a library and a large number of private rooms for out-
of-town guests. At the time of the writing of this book, 1917, the Y.
M. C. A. donated the use of its Assembly Hall to the American Red
Cross for making hospital supplies and for "First Aid" classes. Here,
the residents of Reno work side by side with members of the "Divorce
Colony," women in all walks of life, from all parts of the world;
women famous and beautiful, all working for the great cause of
Humanity without any social prejudices, personal feelings, or
pettiness.... So much for the Y. M. C. A.
[Illustration: Mt. Rose School]
Among the prominent and beautiful buildings are: the Nixon Building
and the Nixon Home on the banks of the Truckee, both of which are
artistic and worthy of mention.
Also the Elks' Home is very beautiful and picturesque: it is set in
spacious grounds and has an imposing entrance crowned with an immense
elk's head. Each of the antlers holds a beautifully colored light; the
lights form the national colors. The home contains every comfort for
the wandering Brother Elk, including a warm welcome. Broad verandas
and balconies overlook the Truckee River, and when there is dancing
its playful waters sing a rustling accompaniment to the music, which,
when mixed with the moonlight on the river and the pretty girl by
one's side, is calculated to make a romantic cocktail, sufficiently
intoxicating to make any poor lonely Elk absolutely helpless.
The social affairs of this organization take a very prominent part in
the life of Reno. One sojourning in this city would be well advised to
have a card to the Elks, should he or she have relatives or friends
who are members. The Elks are a splendid organization: I have found
them always ready with a helping hand extended.
There are no less than ten churches in this charming little Reno town.
The different denominations, their pastors and location are:
1. Baptist Church, Second corner Chestnut; Rev. Brewster Adams.
2. Catholic (St. Thomas), Second corner Chestnut; Rev. T. M. Tubman.
3. Congregational, Virginia corner 5th; Rev. W. D. Trout.
4. Episcopal, Second corner Sierra; Rev. Samuel Unsworth. 5. First
Church of Christ, Scientist, Masonic Temple.
[Illustration: Reno National Bank Building]
6. Lutheran (St. Luke's), Bell corner Second; Rev. F. E. Martens.
7. Methodist Episcopal, Sierra corner 1st; Rev. W. E. Lowther.
8. Presbyterian, Ridge corner Hill; Rev. W. E. Howe.
9. Salvation Army, Sierra Street; Capt. Boyd in charge.
10. Seventh Day Adventist, West 5th; Rev. W. S. Holbrook.
The banks of Reno also do it credit; there are four in number:
1. The Farmers & Merchants Bank, Virginia corner Second Street.
2. The Reno National Bank, Virginia corner Second Street.
3. The Scheeline Banking and Trust Co., N. Virginia Street.
4. The Washoe County Bank, N. Virginia Street corner Second.
In speaking of the banks, I want to comment especially upon the Reno
National Bank. This bank a few years ago moved into its new building,
a most beautiful and artistic structure, which in my opinion would do
credit to Wall Street. Its lobby is artistically and beautifully
equipped, as well as all parts of the bank. It is finished entirely in
white marble, with blue velvet hangings, and no luxury or comfort
known to a modern bank building has been forgotten in its
construction.
This bank was built in 1915 by Mr. George Wingfield at a cost of
approximately $200,000.
"From the North corner comes the light" .... can it be that sometimes
its emerges from the West!
Last but not least is the beautiful Court House. It was rebuilt in
1909 at an approximate cost of $150,000. It is located in a very
prominent part of the city, and faces a beautiful little park; a very
imposing building with its big golden dome, numerous marble pillars
and broad steps. These steps might truly be called the "great divide,"
as many thousands have tripped up united and returned divided; which
incidentally does not mean "united we stand, divided we fall."
Perhaps much more so: "united we fall, divided we stand!"
[Illustration: Interior of Reno National Bank]
As one looks at this palace of Justice one cannot help conjuring up
mental pictures of famous beauties and prominent men, whose stories
have furnished headlines for the leading newspapers of our big cities
in years gone by; they seem to pass in review; a continuous procession
ascending the steps in search of freedom and new happiness....
Through this little city flows the Truckee River, which I think is one
of its chief beauties. This river is one hundred miles long; flowing
out of Lake Tahoe, it empties into Lake Pyramid, a desert lake with no
apparent outlet. The waters of the Truckee are as clear as crystal,
except when they reflect the rose color of the sunset, or the thousand
hues from the mountain peaks when they turn green and gold, rose and
purple: I have seen them look as though covered with heliotrope
velvet, just at the hour between sunset and moonrise.
One can follow the Truckee River from Reno to Lake Tahoe,--a motor run
of about three hours, through scenery of indescribable beauty. The
course of the river, tortuous and quickly changing from side to side,
offers to the enchanted eye a kaleidoscopic review of towering rocks,
foaming waterfalls, pine-clad mountains, snow-capped peaks, emerald
lakes and moss-green valleys.
I shall never forget my first trip from Reno to Lake Tahoe over what
is known as the "Dog Valley Grade." We stopped at the summit, at the
edge of the mountain. Down we peered into the misty shadows of the
deep valleys, six hundred feet below. It was a strange sensation to be
hanging thus between earth and sky: to feel that the only thing
between life and death was about three feet of roadbed, and four "non-
skid" tires. It was wonderful to drink in the beauty of it all. I felt
like a disembodied spirit, traveling back:.... back over centuries
into forgotten ages, trying to realize what this wonderful country
must have been like when it was still hidden by the foaming waters of
a great inland sea.....
And then we reached beautiful Lake Tahoe, set in the midst of the
Sierra Nevadas, surrounded by a dozen snow-capped peaks, the staunch,
unflinching satellites of one of God's wondrous treasures. It reflects
a picture to be surpassed nowhere else in the world. The great depth
of the lake accounts for its glorious color of waters, which,
turquoise blue in one place twenty feet away will change to emerald
green; the colors do not fade into one another: they are distinctly
separated. In some places the depth of the lake is even unknown. Lake
Tahoe is twenty-three miles long: its maximum width thirteen. Its
altitude is six thousand two hundred and twenty-five feet above sea
level: the highest body of water in the United States. On one side its
undulating waves kiss the shores of California: on the other those of
Nevada, so that exiles of the "Divorce Colony" may take advantage of
this delightful summer resort and still remain within the State to
which one day they hope to owe their happiness.....
The midsummer air is cool and invigorating; hunting and fishing
excellent; motor rides perfect; boating and bathing the finest in the
land. Hotel and camping accommodations are splendid; the landscape is
picturesque and a never-ending delight to the eye. This is one of the
great many splendid advantages of the beautiful city tucked away in
the shadow of the Sierras; so cheer-up, you prospective exiles, the
wilds have their untold fascinations.
In writing of Reno one feels a compelling desire to describe the
principal points of interest around and near the city, as in these
days of motor cars and good roads it is a never-ending joy to spend a
day among the famous gold mining districts, visit the Indian homes and
reservations, and other beautiful and interesting places. I will
endeavor to describe these further:
Near Reno, on the Truckee, is the famous Carson Dam: the first
reclamation project undertaken by the government under the National
Reclamation Project Act. I went out to look it over and found it
tremendously interesting. It was built in 1903 at a cost of
$7,000,000. The dam is constructed of earth and concrete, eight
hundred feet long, one hundred ten feet high, four hundred feet wide
at the base and twenty feet wide at the top. The main unit of this
project was completed in 1913. It was the means of reclaiming a total
of 2,000,000 acres of what was once known as the "Forty Mile Desert."
The dam produces many thousand hydroelectric horse-power, and it is
wonderful to see this stretch of desert waste turned like magic into
rich productive agricultural soil. Perhaps some day the entire desert
will flourish likewise.... Who knows?
Carson City, the capital of Nevada, is situated in the Eagle Valley
and was originally laid out in 1858. The valley was first visited in
1833 by Kit Carson, the famous scout and frontiersman. The south end
of Eagle Valley was settled by Mormons in 1849-1850. Carson City
itself is 33 miles from Reno, 22 miles from Virginia City and 14 miles
from Lake Tahoe.
The principal points of interest in Carson are the Mint, the State
Capitol, the Orphans' Home; the Federal Building and the Post Office;
the Indian School; Shaw's Springs. And many other interesting things
will well repay a visit. The Virginia and Truckee Railroad, over which
the trip to Virginia City is made, is one of the grandest successes of
railroading and engineering. It was constructed between Carson City
and Virginia City in 1869, and from Carson City to Reno in 1872. The
entire cost of the road was $5,200,000, or not less than $100,000 per
mile.
The enormous business transacted by the road may be surmised when it
is stated that for a long time it paid the Central Pacific Railway $
1,000 per day for freight on goods received there from, and collected
for freight at the Virginia City office from $60,000 to $90,000 per
month, and at Gold Hill but little less.
East of Carson City on the road to Virginia City we pass the State
Prison, known for its historic relics. Some years ago, during
quarrying in the prison yard, immense footprints of pre-historic
animals and birds were discovered at a depth of twenty feet below the
surface of the ground. They cover an area of two acres, and were made
by mastodons: they are over four inches deep. Many man-like tracks
were found, 18 to 20 inches long and 8 inches wide, with a stride of
30 inches and a distance between right and left tracks of 19 inches.
[Illustration: Elk's Home]
A few miles east of Carson is the town of Empire, once an important
trading post and distributing point for lumber, cordwood, etc.
After leaving Empire the road enters the canons of the Carson River,
passing in rapid succession the sites of numerous mills which were
erected to. crush the rich ore of the world-famous Comstock Lode.
Principal among these were the Morgan, Brunswick and Santiago mills
which turned out hundreds of millions of dollars' worth of bullion.
The grade of the road rises rapidly, the track leaves the canon and
soon reaches the Mound House, the junction point with the Southern
Pacific. Railroad trains leave Mound House for Dayton, Fort Churchill,
Tonopah, Goldfield and all points south.
Leaving Mound House the road soon traverses the famous mineral belt of
the Comstock Lode. This belt is 7,000 feet wide and 6 miles long, and
produced nearly a billion dollars. The first mine to be seen is the
Haywood, lying to the west side of the road. This mine produced over
$1,000,000 and is still active.
To the east can be seen Silver City. The mines in this vicinity
produced over $12,000,000. None of them has attained any great depth.
The road next enters the Gold Hill district. The country in this
vicinity is gashed and scarred by hundreds of cuts, shafts and tunnels
dug by the early prospectors in their search for wealth. Every one of
these marks represents a hope, and in many cases the hope was
realized; the same spirit animates their successors and the search
still goes on.
The principal mines in Gold Hill are the Ophir, Caledonia, Overman,
Seg, Belcher, Yellow Jacket, Kentuck, Crown Point, Imperial and
Bullion. The Yellow Jacket was the first mine located, taking its name
from the fact that its locators were warmly opposed by a swarm of
yellow jackets. This was in 1859. The yield of the Gold Hill mines and
the dividends paid were enormous.
The Ophir Mining Co. in 1859 sent 45 tons of their croppings to San
Francisco for reduction, the cost for transportation being 25 cents
per pound, or $500 per ton. They paid $450 per ton for smelting, a
total cost of $42,750, yet they made a profit of $128,250 on the
transaction, the rock giving over $3,800 per ton.
High above the town of Gold Hill and clinging to the side of the
mountain can be seen the flumes of the Virginia & Gold Hill Water Co.,
which supplies the camps of Virginia City, Gold Hill and Silver with
the finest water in the world. The water is conducted 3 I miles
through pipes and flumes from springs and snow-fed streams in the
Sierras 1,500 feet above the city. The capacity of the flumes is
10,800,000 gallons per day. From Gold Hill the road runs through
tunnels, twists and turns along the side of Mt. Davidson until it
reaches Virginia City, the end of the line.
Virginia City was first settled in 1859. It obtained its name from an
old prospector, James Finney, nicknamed "Old Virginny." Its elevation
is 6,205 feet above sea level.
In 1861 the population of Virginia City was 3,284, of Gold Hill 1,294
and of Silver City 1,022; in 1878 it was 40,000.
The first international hotel was built in 1860. It was a single story
building. The first day's receipts were $700. The present structure
was built in 1877; it cost $210,000.
The honor of discovering the "Comstock Lode" belongs to the two
brothers, Allen and Hosea Grosch. The majority of the miners on the
Comstock in the first days of its activity lived in tents and dug-outs
called "holes in the wall."
I never realized the vastness of our country, nor the wonderful
opportunities which the West affords those in search of wealth, until
I lived there six months. There are untold undeveloped resources, the
like of which does not exist in the over-crowded East. May this little
book, in a way, serve to introduce the West to the East.
Reno and her people cannot be spoken of as typical of other Western
towns and people, as the residents of this much-talked-of "big little
city" are subject to conditions which do not exist in any other town
in the country. They are democratic and whole-hearted Westerners, but
find themselves confronted with social conditions which change their
attitude toward things. However, I was very much impressed at the
comparatively few divorces one finds among the older, permanent
residents. I think this proves that it is the "unattainable that is
most desired."
[Illustration: Y.M.C.A.]
The women of Nevada have enjoyed equal suffrage for some time; they
are wide awake and interested in all public affairs. Besides being
domesticated, they are intellectual and energetic. There are very few
"prudes" among them, and a great many diplomats. Nowhere more than in
Reno is developed among men and women a sense of being individual. I
attended many of the Women's Clubs, and was always agreeably surprised
to find them up-to-date in every respect: a company of women banded
together to study and plan for the betterment of humanity, and social
conditions in general. The Mothers' Club and the Century Club are
doing splendid work in aiding the development of "Home Economics,"
"Better Babies," helping with all kinds of charities, civic
improvements and much other commendable work.
It was at these clubs that I met the real wife and mother, with real
sweetness of soul: the woman who even under difficulties knew how to
live a simple, pure and gentle life. Never have I come in contact with
so much human feeling--even the ministers and their families are
human, and full of understanding! The officials and people of
prominence are all natural and unassuming.
I attended a "Ladies' Aid" meeting at which there were about forty
ladies present, and among other good traits of these fine, earnest
women I noticed particularly the absence of gossip and prudishness.
However, there is a spirit of contradiction prevailing in Reno which
is very difficult to understand. All traces of the "wild and woolly"
Western town have disappeared. The people of Reno are very docile
indeed .... there are no cowboy yells nor Indian whoops, which some of
our Eastern and Southern friends imagine still to exist. And the click
of the roulette-wheel has passed with the years that have departed.
Reno has developed into a cosmopolitan city with a cosmopolitan
population. The cafes have cabarets with excellent talent, and there
is dancing every evening in several of the hotels, where amid the
bright lights, gay music, beautifully gowned women and well groomed
men, one might easily imagine oneself in one of the swell cafes on
Broadway: until one catches a glimpse of the moonlight on the Truckee,
through an open window.... Here the people of Reno rub shoulders with
those who constitute the "Divorce Colony," and to a new-comer, it is
difficult to distinguish the one from the other.
The people of Reno keep their city clean, and maintain a very high
standard of law and order. A lady may walk out unescorted at any hour
of the day or night, and will never be molested or insulted in any
way. The absence of public drunkenness and profanity is very
noticeable, and I was not surprised to read the following note clipped
from one of the local newspapers on Sunday morning:
"DEAD CALM IN POLICE COURTS ON SATURDAY"
"Police court was absolutely deserted yesterday morning, not a single
case appearing on the docket to mar the serenity of the day. Reno's
night police found the citizens unusually well behaved all night long
and were not required to make even one arrest during the twelve hours
they were on duty."
The fact that the people do not show much hospitality to undesirables,
not even the hospitality of their jails, may explain why the little
city is so calm and peaceful, and its police not overworked. The
following clipping will indicate what happened to undesirables:
"THREE MEN ARE TOLD TO GET OUT OF CITY"
"Population of Reno Dwindles, Following Session of Judge Bryson's
Court"
"Charles C. Stewart, James Joyce and John Burke were picked up by the
police on Commercial Row Wednesday for disorderly conduct. Judge
Bryson's police court was still in session and the men were arraigned
immediately. All three pleaded guilty to the charge and for the best
interests of the community were given until 10 o'clock Thursday
morning to get out of town."
[Illustration: View of Nevada University Campus]
I had the pleasure of being a guest at the "Military Ball" in the
University of Nevada, at which the Governor, his staff and many state
officials were present, and was very much impressed by the fact that
Nevada's statesmen, like the State, are comparatively young. The
Governor did not look a day over thirty. They were a fine looking lot
of earnest, unassuming, democratic Westerners. I do not know when I
have seen a prettier picture than the one I saw when I looked down
from the balcony upon that splendid assembly of glittering uniforms,
beautifully gowned women, and handsome young students, amid fluttering
flags and gay music. As I looked on, I could not help thinking of the
pioneer ancestors of some of these illustrious sons and daughters of
Nevada, who had crossed the plains in the early days, and I wondered
what they would have to say of this brilliant array, and of the magic,
modern little city of Reno and its people, if they could peep from
behind the curtains of yesterday! I am sure they would be more than
proud of both!
I fully expected to find living in Reno unusually expensive, but was
agreeably surprised to find that one can live there even more
reasonably than in the East. The prices are not extortionate at all,
there being no specially made rates for "visitors," and the people are
neither grasping nor selfish.
I have found the people of Reno charming and interesting and it has
been a pleasure indeed to get a peep behind the scenes of this
romantic little city, and above all, I have found everyone fair and
courteous in every way to those who are to become citizens of their
town.