CHAPTER II

CAMP SHELTER

One of the foremost considerations which confronts the camper is

shelter; for upon it depends, to a large extent, his health and

comfort. Of course, the character of this shelter depends upon many

things: individual preference, location of the camp and facilities

for transportation. But the first consideration is a tight roof and

protection from cold winds.

He is a poor woodsman, indeed, who in a forest cannot provide himself

with protection from the weather. But every man who wishes to camp

is not a woodsman, and is the man who is looking for advice. Woods

frequenters sleep many nights with nothing but the blue canopy of

heaven for a roof, and men have camped for weeks with only a square

of canvas for a “dog tent.” But although I have tried both plans and

thoroughly enjoyed myself, I must confess that I hanker for a good wall

or shanty tent when the winds blow cold or the rain falls wet, and

these things we must always expect.

THE WALL TENT.

[Illustration: Wall tent]

If camp is located where transportation by team or water is available,

when the temperature is above freezing, carry a wall tent, with a fly.

It admits of better ventilation than an A tent, gives more head room

for the sleeper and weighs but a trifle more. By all means do not omit

the fly. Without this, in a driving rain, the water will beat through

in a fine spray and dampen everything inside. Moreover, it is almost

impossible to avoid hitting the canvas, sometimes, and the result is

that whenever the wet cloth is touched from the inside it will start a

leak unless the canvas is very thoroughly waterproofed.

In pitching a tent, select a suitable site, on top of a little knoll

if possible, with the ground as level as may be. Do not under any

circumstances pitch it in a hollow or gully where the water will

run in. Clear off the brush, remove all bunches from the ground and

carefully pitch the tent. See that all is clear before raising and that

the guys hang evenly and run smoothly.

Next, dig a trench about six inches deep all around the outside,

and about six inches from the canvas. Be sure not to neglect this

precaution or you may awake in a puddle of water, which is not

conducive to a happy frame of mind. Also remember that dampness will

contract the cloth and ropes; so before you go to bed, slacken the guys

a little or, if it rains in the night, you may awake with a tent pin

flapping about your ears, the cloth torn or the tent blown down.

SHANTY TENT.

[Illustration: Shanty tent]

If there are only one or two in the party, and especially if weight is

a consideration, a “shanty tent” is desirable. One which I have just

completed is 6 ft. high in front and 2 ft. high in back, 7 ft. long,

6 ft. wide, with fly. No poles are needed if there are trees, for the

head rope which goes across the front at the top is stretched between

two trees and the tent guyed from that. The front of the tent may be

lifted for an awning, when not needed to close the tent, by supporting

the canvas on poles. With this tent there is sufficient length for a

tall man, width enough for two to sleep comfortably and room enough

to stow the “duffle,” while there is sufficient head room at the rear

to afford good ventilation for a small party. I prefer this pattern

of tent to all others for the reason that there is less lost space in

ratio to the weight, with more convenience, than in any other style

known to me.

THE DOG TENT.

[Illustration: Dog tent]

Now, so far as a substitute for a comfortable tent is concerned, there

is a wide range for choice. When traveling rapidly on foot, with as

little _impedimenta_ as possible, a simple square canvas, furnished

with loops at two sides and large enough to shelter a man, will amply

suffice. When the time arrives to make camp a pole is lashed across

two trees or supported on crotched sticks, the canvas is thrown across

it and pinned down by the side loops and the camp is ready. If you wish

to shut up one end cut some evergreen boughs and stick them thickly in

the ground at that end; this will break the wind. Build your camp fire

in front of the opened end and you will be comfortable.

THE LEAN-TO.

[Illustration: A Lean-to]

If you desire to travel lighter still, or are caught in the woods

without shelter, a few minutes’ work will suffice to build a “lean-to.”

To erect this structure find two trees about four to six feet apart,

or drive two poles into the ground. Lash another pole across them about

five feet from the ground for a ridge pole. Cut five poles about eight

feet long and lay across this, with one end resting on the ground to

form the roof. Cover these poles with bark, laid shingle fashion, or

with a thick layer of evergreen boughs. It is astonishing how heavy a

rain a bough roof will shed if properly laid on. Now stick some poles

at the two sides, with the tops lashed to the side roof poles, wattle

in some brush and you have a camp that will keep you dry and with a

good fire in front will be as warm as a log house, for the heat of the

fire is all reflected down by the slanting roof.

[Illustration: Another Lean-to]

If you have no time for so elaborate a construction, cut a pole, rest

one end in the crotch of a tree, the other on the ground. With this for

a ridge pole lean up poles and brush on each side till you have room

for your shelter. If you have no axe to cut a pole, find a leaning tree

or a fallen log, or even a boulder, and pile brush against it, having

first thrown down a lot of boughs for a bed. This sort of a structure

is capable of infinite variation.

THE LOG HUT.

Sometimes in cold weather it becomes necessary to have some shelter

more substantial than a tent or even a bark shanty, especially when

a prolonged stay is to be made at some central place. A log hut will

provide for this, and when timber is plenty can be made with no other

tools than a narrow axe. Do not be too extravagant in your idea of

size. A small building is more easily kept warm than a large one and a

house 8 × 10 feet will shelter four men.

Cut straight logs about 8 inches in diameter. Nine logs 11 feet long

for the back; three logs 11 feet long, and sixteen logs 4 feet long for

the front; eighteen logs 9 feet long for the ends.

Clear a level place free from brush and lay two 11-foot and two 9-foot

logs on the ground in the form of a square, with the ends of the logs

notched to hold them in place, with notches deep enough so that the

next log when similarly fitted will lie snugly on top. Now proceed to

pile the logs up like a cob-house, notching each log at the corners

and using the long logs for the back and two of the short logs for the

front to provide for a door in the center, where the ends of the logs

should be held by a pole on each side. When the short logs are used up

put on the long ones. The logs of the front and back should be laid

with the butt and top alternated to keep them level, but the ends of

the camp should have the butts all laid toward the front to form the

pitch of the roof and those with the greatest taper should be selected

for the ends.

For the roof, cut poles 13 feet long, lay them lengthwise and notch

them into the top logs of the ends. Then cover with birch or hemlock

bark. Lay poles across to prevent the high winds from displacing it and

throw on evergreen boughs to break the force of the rain.

If it be desired to have a pitch roof cut short logs to fill in the

gable ends and hew down the pitch to the desired angle. Fill all

crevices with moss, grass or clay. A door may be made of slabs split

from a cedar tree and hung on leather or rawhide hinges.

For fittings build two bunks of poles across the narrow end and fill

them with fir browse. There will be room enough to stow personal

belongings at the foot of the bunks and they will add to the warmth. If

a camp stove is used place it at the back opposite the door and run the

pipe through the roof. If no stove is used, make a fireplace of rocks

laid up in clay and have a hole in the roof for the smoke to go out.

If dry wood is used the smoke in the room is not offensive, for a very

little fire will warm the place as much as is desirable. Do not use

cedar wood for the fire, for the sparks will fly all over the place.

If desirable, many elaborations of this building can be made. If a

chimney is desired build it of stones and clay and build the wall into

it, so as to leave the chimney half inside and half outside.

Camping and camp cooking · 第 2 / 6 章