CHAPTER XXXIII

THE TAKING OF NIKSICH

To the Prince the siege of Niksich was like a game of chess played by

cable, a move a day. But even this brought progress, and, when we had

taken the outlying blockhouses, one by one, and there remained only

the citadel, a flimsy fortress, mainly, I should judge, the work of

the Servian kings, all that remained to accomplish was the bombardment

of its walls, which became a sort of spectacle, to which we went day

after day to watch the effect of the fire, as we should have done with

a game of skittles. I climbed up on the top of a neighboring mountain,

and, with my field-glass, inspected the town. Women went and came with

their water-pitchers on their heads, moving in serene tranquillity,

without quickening a step, and the life of the place seemed absolutely

undisturbed by the danger, as if shells did not burst. Now and then

one of the houses caught fire and varied the show; the Turkish return

fire was mainly directed at the batteries where the great Russian guns

were posted, and the Montenegrins used to sit on the rocks around,

utterly heedless of the Turkish fire, despising cover. Finally a shell

fell and exploded in the midst of a group of men, and, for the time,

cover was made compulsory by order of the Prince. But the rank and

file grew impatient, and demanded an attack with such insistence that

the Prince was obliged to move. There were two steep ridges to the

west of the city, crowned by strong stone breastworks and held by

considerable detachments of regulars, being positions of supreme

importance, as they commanded the redoubts on that side from a

distance of 300 to 500 yards. The Prince gave the assault of one to

a battalion of Montenegrins, and the other to the Herzegovinian

auxiliaries.

There was in our camp a young German officer who had been under a

shadow, and had been sent away to retrieve his reputation for courage.

He came to Montenegro to earn a decoration, and begged the Prince to

let him go with the Montenegrin battalion. At the foot of each ridge

was an outwork which had first to be taken by assault, from across the

open, and which was taken in the early twilight, the Turks seeking

refuge in the redoubt above. The Montenegrin force reversed the works

they had taken, and a desultory rifle fire went on till it was too

dark to see the sights of the rifles. We, the spectators, were

assigned posts to see the spectacle as at the theatre, and went to

them just after sundown. The straggling fire of the early twilight

stopped, and there was an unbroken silence and immobility which lasted

perhaps twenty minutes, and until everything had become vague and

indefinable in the deepening twilight, when we heard the signal, given

by a trumpet call, and instantly the steep sides of the two ridges

were crawling with gray shadows, and a terrific fire burst out from

the redoubts at the top, lasting for hardly ten minutes, when it

as suddenly ceased; and then, after a brief pause, the Montenegrin

trumpet sounded from the summit of their ridge to tell that the work

was done. We trooped back to our tents and to supper, and presently

came in our little German friend, unharmed and exultant. His account

was graphic. The Montenegrins had taken the outwork, working up on

hand and knee, crawling and firing from such cover as they could find

until the Turks broke and escaped to the summit, and the Montenegrins

lay close behind the wall they had taken. When the trumpet sounded

they threw their rifles down, drew their sword bayonets, and made a

rush with the naked steel. The fire broke out from the redoubt above,

said our little German, with a roar that was absolutely appalling; it

was as if the sky were woven with whistling missiles, and but for very

shame, seeing the rage of combat in the men around him, he would have

lain down in overmastering panic. But no man halted, and the race

between the two battalions was won by the Montenegrins only by a

minute, and they poured over the wall of the redoubts, the Turks who

could escape going out at the rear as their assailants poured in. When

it comes to this final charge, the Montenegrin always leaves his gun

behind and trusts only to the cold steel.

The next morning a flag of truce came to ask for terms, and the town

surrendered on condition of the garrison going out with their arms and

their private property. We went out to see them defile past the Prince

and his staff. The poor fellows were in rags, and the bundles they

carried on their backs contained everything they had in the world.

Wives and children in numbers followed or preceded, and to our

attempts to show them little kindnesses they shrank from us as if we

had been wolves, the children generally howling with fear when we

offered them a biscuit or a coin. One of our battalions escorted them

through the narrows of the Duga, and, when they reached the wild and

bosky gorge which makes its strongest position, the women stopped in a

paralysis of panic, asking if this was the place where they were to be

butchered, so completely had the Turkish authorities impressed on them

the fiction of infallible slaughter for all who fell into the hands of

the Montenegrins. The Prince gave the inhabitants four days to choose

whether they would stay and become his subjects or take all their

possessions and go to Albania. The most had decided to stay, when word

was sent them from Spuz that all who accepted the protection of the

Prince would be expelled and have all their property confiscated when

the Turks returned, and many were frightened into revocation of their

submission. Some were as irreconcilable as wolves, and would not

endure conversation with us. I found a little fellow, about five or

six, pasturing a lamb in the outskirts of the town, and tried, with

the aid of the interpreter, to enter into conversation with him, but

to no effect. He repelled every advance, and, when I offered him a

piastre, he refused it with a savage dignity, saying that he had money

of his own and did not want mine.

We took an immense booty in provisions, artillery (nineteen guns),

tents, and war material, left by Suleiman in the expectation of

returning after he had made the conquest of Montenegro. Ammunition

there was none, for the artillery had been supplied with old

muzzle-loading pistol and other cartridges broken up for the last

weeks of the siege. And so ended the contest of four hundred years.

The easy terms accorded by the Prince to the garrison of Niksich

brought their compensation a little later, when, the liberated

garrison being besieged anew in the impregnable fortress of Spizza

dominating the road from Dalmatia to Antivari, they gave in without a

serious defense, satisfied with the honors of war. It was clear,

from the testimony I was able to collect from Turkish deserters and

prisoners, that the obstinate defense of the garrisons under siege

was oftener due to the desperation inspired by the assurance of the

Turkish authorities themselves, that no quarter would be given to

those who surrendered, than to the bellicose ardor. A captain of the

Turkish nizams, who had commanded one of the little fortresses beyond

Niksich, and who surrendered to Socica when he knew that his tower was

undermined and would be blown up in a minute if he did not surrender,

declined to be released, as he knew that, whatever might happen to his

men, he would be shot for surrendering, and no account taken of the

necessity of saving the life of his men, to say nothing of his own.

The method of Socica in attacking those towers, which were of stone,

without any artillery, was to construct a wooden tower on wheels,

strong enough to resist rifle balls, and which, moved by the men

inside, approached the fortress, till actually in contact, when a mine

was put under the wall and the garrison was summoned to surrender.

Our Albanian captain preferred the climate of Cettinje to that of

Podgoritza, and there I made his acquaintance. He had not received a

penny of his pay for forty months, and was in rags and shoeless in

the depth of winter, when I knew him. I bought him some shoes and

second-hand clothes, and interested the Prince in his case, so that

finally he was given a place on the staff and regular pay. The

gratitude of the poor fellow was embarrassing. He begged me to take

him as a body servant, declaring himself ready to go with me to the

world's end, and I could hardly make him understand that a servant

would be a burden to me which I could not afford. He said to one of

the Montenegrin officers, "When I say my prayers for myself I always

ask God to be good to that English gentleman." As with most of the men

of his race whom I have made the acquaintance of, his native faculties

were of a high order. The Albanians are quick, ingenious, and

industrious, and are the best workmen in the finer industrial arts of

the Balkans, gold and silver workers of remarkable skill, dividing

the blacksmithing with the gypsy, but the best and indeed the only

armorers of that world. We had a number of them in the camp at

Niksich, refugees from the tribes on our frontier, and I found them

most interesting companions, generally speaking Italian and Serb as

well as their own dialects. Their conservatism is something almost

inexplicable. A friend who had campaigned with them told me that when

they sacked a village their first quest was always for old iron, which

they valued more than gold and silver, an estimation which can only

be the heredity of an age when iron was the article of the highest

utility, for now it is easy of acquisition everywhere about their

country. They reckon their ancestry from the mother, and when my

Cretan cavass, Hadji Houssein, spoke of his home, it was always as his

"mother's house."

Niksich settled under Montenegrin rule, and order established, the

Prince moved his headquarters to Bilek, a fortress which commanded the

roads from Ragusa to the interior of Herzegovina, and whence he could

dominate all the southern sections of that province, protecting his

frontier. There was, as usual, no road for wheels, only a rough

bridle-path, and the mobility of the Montenegrins under those

conditions was remarkable. They carried the thirty-two-pound

breech-loaders on fir poles run through the guns and supported on the

men's shoulders, faster than our horses could walk, and the artillery

rapidly distanced the staff and _corps diplomatique_, not even a rear

guard remaining with us. In company with one of the aides I rode on

under the impression that headquarters were behind us, until we got

lost in the labyrinth of paths running about the forest, and we lay

down under a tree to rest and wait for the staff to overtake us. Here

one of the perianiks found us and brought us to the Prince, who had

gone ahead on a blind road, with half a dozen perianiks, two or three

sirdars, and the diplomats. He had tried to show his knowledge of the

country and lost his way; so, coming to a pretty dell which took his

fancy, he ordered a halt and preparations to pass the night, and there

we found him.

We had no tents; the rendezvous for the night had been at Tupani,

several miles from where we were, and the division commanders were

with the men and had no communication with us. We had eaten an early

breakfast, and had brought no food; the only blankets were those of

the Prince. The perianiks gathered wood and made a fire, round which

we gathered, for the night set in sharp, it being the middle of

September in a high mountain country. One of the men had taken the

precaution to put two or three pieces of bread in his haversack before

starting, and this was divided between us, and I made my supper on

this and some wild plums I found growing there. Later the men went out

to forage and found a farmhouse, where they got straw and milk, with a

little sheep's-milk cheese. The proprietress, aroused by the invasion,

came down on us in a veritable visitation, furious at our burning her

wood. She abused the Prince and all the company in the most insulting

terms, and was finally placated only by a liberal compensation for

her wood. I spread my bundle of straw under the wild plum tree, and,

covered by my ulster, tempted sleep. I dozed until the ants found me

out, when, unable to lie quiet under the formication, I got up and

passed hours walking up and down till I was so tired that I almost

fell asleep walking; then I lay down again and slept for an hour, but

the cold and the ants awoke me again, and I spent the rest of the

night by the camp-fire. Meanwhile the army collected at Tupani knew

nothing of the Prince, and, with the early dawn, patrols were sent off

in every direction to beat up the country in search of him. Had the

Turks been on the lookout they might have gobbled up the Prince and

his diplomats without difficulty. Beaching the general rendezvous, I

decided that a more active occupation than following the tactics of

the Prince would suit me better, and I turned my horse's head towards

Niksich again. Another tedious siege like that of Niksich was not

to my taste, and I decided to explore the remoter provinces, and if

possible go to Wassoivich, the only corner of the great Dushanic

empire into which the Turk had never penetrated even for a raid,

where, under the rugged peaks of the Kutchi Kom, survived the best

representatives of ancient custom and life.

The Autobiography of a Journalist, Volume II · 第 14 / 21 章