1839.
THE TOMB OF DAVID--SPREAD OF THE PLAGUE--MUSSULMAN
FANATICISM--SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT OF THE GOVERNOR OF JERUSALEM--NAYANI,
BETH DAGON, JAFFA, EM-KHALET, AND TANTURA.
_Tuesday, June 11th._--We rode before breakfast through the valley of
Jehoshaphat, then to the tomb of King David. The keeper of the place
produced an order from Ibrahim Pasha, which prohibited the entrance of
Europeans to the tomb. We addressed a letter to the Governor,
informing him that the keeper would not admit us. A short time
afterwards the Governor arrived. He approved of the conduct of the
keeper, but thought, nevertheless, that the Pasha's order did not
refer to a gentleman who, like Sir Moses, was the bearer of letters of
introduction from the highest authorities in the land, and, leading
the way, he invited us all to follow him to the tomb. It was a
spacious vaulted chamber, supported in the centre by a column. At the
further end we saw a trellised window, on the right of which was an
arched folding door. Being led to the spot, we beheld through the
lattice the tomb, covered with richly embroidered carpets. In the
centre was an Arabic inscription, "This is the tomb of our Lord
David," on either side of which were the double triangles known by the
name of "the shield of David." On one corner of the tomb hung a rich
silk sash and a pistol, the offerings of Ibrahim Pasha. The Governor,
addressing Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore, said, "I will now leave you
to your religious devotions," and then left the place. We recited
several psalms, and went away much gratified with the opportunity
which we had had of visiting the sacred spot.
On our return we visited the cave of Jeremiah and the tombs of the
Kings. In the evening a number of people came up to pass the night on
the Mount of Olives, so as to be ready in the morning to join the
procession which had been arranged for our entry into the city. Many
of our brethren from Hebron, including the spiritual heads and
representatives of their congregations, came to offer us their
congratulations, and to accompany us the next day to the Synagogue. In
the evening a large number of friends, and students from the colleges,
assembled round our tents, to recite the evening prayers in front of
the place formerly occupied by Solomon's temple.
_Wednesday, 12th._--We rose before four o'clock. The Governor offered
to attend us at daybreak, but Sir Moses said he would let him know
when we were ready. At six o'clock Sir Moses sent for the Governor,
who came attended by the representatives of the several congregations,
a number of soldiers, and many of his officers and servants. They took
coffee, pipes, etc., and after sitting down some time we set out at
eight o'clock in procession. Sir Moses rode a beautiful white Arabian
horse, which the Governor had sent him the day before; Lady Montefiore
rode her own. We entered the city by the Gate of the Tribes, and
passed through most of the streets, which were crowded with men,
women, and children, the Governor having made it a holiday. We
proceeded to the Portuguese Synagogue, where the Governor left us. His
officers and men remained with us till we again reached the Mount of
Olives. The Synagogue was beautifully decorated, and attended by as
many of the congregation as space would permit. Special prayers were
offered up by the Ecclesiastical Chief, who invoked the blessings of
Heaven on the pious pilgrims. At the conclusion of the service we
received a hearty welcome to the Holy City from all present.
We then went to the German Synagogue, where a similar service was
held, addresses delivered, and prayers offered up for the friends of
Zion, after which we proceeded to the Western Wall, and recited there
the usual prayers in the presence of a large assembly. Having thanked
the representatives of the several communities, we repaired to the
house of the Governor, Lady Montefiore awaiting our return in the
Synagogue of the late Mr Lehren.
Sir Moses then rejoined Lady Montefiore, and paid a visit to Mr and
Mrs Young and some other friends, returning to the Mount of Olives
about four o'clock P.M.
The record of this day in his diary concludes with the following
words, expressive of the grateful sentiments which filled his heart:--
"The Lord God of Israel be praised and thanked for permitting our feet
to stand a second time within thy gates, O Jerusalem, may the city
soon be rebuilt, in our days. Amen." "I believe," he continues, "the
whole population was looking at us, and bestowing blessings on us."
_Thursday, 13th._--We were engaged all day in speaking to persons who
came with petitions. Some of Sir Moses' friends, fearing the ravages
of the plague, informed him of their intention to accompany him to
Hebron. A man to whom we had spoken, only a few days previously, had
since died of the plague, so that their apprehensions of serious
danger seemed to be fully justified. Sir Moses distributed the money
he had brought with him from England, and made arrangements for the
further distribution of L500, which he promised to send either from
Beyrout or Alexandria.
_Friday, 14th._--With feelings of deep regret we left the Mount of
Olives for Hebron, and after three hours' journey reached Rachel's
Tomb. Seeing that it was greatly out of repair and going fast to ruin,
Lady Montefiore gave directions for an estimate for its restoration to
be made. Half way to Hebron we rested for an hour near a fortress and
a great reservoir. Our route lay through a mountainous country, little
cultivated. On the summit of a mountain at some distance we saw the
tombs of Nathan the prophet and Gad the seer.
About an hour's ride from Hebron we were met by the representatives of
the Hebrew community, accompanied by hundreds of their members, many
of whom danced and sang psalms to manifest their delight. They
preceded us to the place where we pitched our tents, in an olive grove
near the town. The vicinity of the town was beautiful, very
mountainous, but covered with vines, olives, and pomegranates. We
attended the Portuguese Synagogue, and then returned to our tent.
_Saturday, 15th._--Early in the morning, the representatives of the
community came to accompany us to Synagogue, where both Sir Moses and
Lady Montefiore were received with the highest respect. At the
conclusion of the service the same gentlemen accompanied us back to
our encampment. Whilst at breakfast the Governor was announced; he
brought with him a present of four sheep. As we kept ourselves in
quarantine, and our place of encampment was surrounded by a cordon,
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore could not receive him in the tent. After
having finished their repast, however, they went out to him, although
they did not consider it advisable to accept his present, as he had
not paid the pilgrims the attention due to them on their arrival. The
Governor, feeling that he had not acted as he should have done,
offered profound apologies, but blamed the community for not having
given him due notice of their arrival. In consideration of his polite
excuses, his present was accepted. When he offered his services, Sir
Moses asked whether he could take us to the Cave of Machpelah, but he
could not give a favourable reply. We had visitors the whole day.
_Sunday, 16th._--There were assembled in front of our tents no fewer
than two hundred people, men, women, and children, including all the
representatives of the congregation, together with their wives and
children. They presented us with certificates entitling us to free
seats in their several Synagogues, both Portuguese and German. They
also requested Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore to accept the presidency
of their charities and schools. The Governor also paid them another
visit, as a special mark of respect, repeating his apologies for not
having come to meet them, and volunteering his services during our
visits to the holy places. After he left, the whole congregation
united in prayers for the evening service. The scene was most
interesting. Numerous presents had again been sent by various members
of the community; also a jar of fresh butter and another of honey, by
the Sheik of the place. After the prayers, the four sheep which the
Governor had sent were prepared for the repast. The parts appropriated
to the descendants of Aaron, the High Priest, were given to them, the
hind quarters were presented to the Mussulman and Druse attendants and
moukaries, and the forequarters to poor Jewish families. All present
appeared happy. Singing, playing, dancing, and performances with sword
and gun, afforded amusement to old and young, to Druse, Mussulman,
Christian, and Jew.
_Monday, June 17th._--The Governor and Sheik having, on the previous
day, promised to accompany us to the Cave of Machpelah, they came
this morning before nine o'clock, together with their attendants.
After having partaken of coffee and sherbet, with the usual
accompaniment of a chibouk, we set out for the tombs of our
forefathers, Abraham, Isaac, and Jacob. Many members of the Hebrew
community followed us. On reaching the steps of the Mosque, even
before we had dismounted, there was a great cry against us entering.
We nevertheless ascended the steps, and entered the passage leading to
the interior of the Mosque. It was filled with people, all screaming
and threatening us with sticks. But the situation soon became much
more serious. The Mussulmans began to beat back those of the Jews who
had followed us, and the screams were truly frightful. The soldiers of
the Governor of Beyrout and the janissary from Mr Moore, the English
Consul, behaved admirably; they struck right and left with all their
might, and the entrance gate was soon closed. We remained inside, and
following the Governor, attempted to enter the Mosque, but we were for
some time prevented by the cries of the people, which were greatly
increased by a dervish, who threw himself before the door, shrieking
in a most frightful manner, and calling on the people not to allow us
to enter. Sir Moses, however, drew Lady Montefiore along past him, and
we made good our entrance; but, perceiving that we were in great
danger, the Mosque being filled with at least five hundred persons,
many of whom were armed with sticks, Sir Moses did not deem it prudent
to remain. We therefore immediately passed through the opposite door,
and left the Mosque by a different gate to the one through which we
had entered. The only objects we saw in the passage deserving notice
were two large stones in the wall; they were similar to those in the
Western Wall at Jerusalem, at least nine yards long and one yard
broad. We also saw an iron gate which, we thought, might perhaps lead
to the cave, but Sir Moses felt certain that they were determined we
should not enter to see any part of it. The Governor appeared in great
alarm, and had not the least influence with the people. "To say the
truth," Sir Moses remarked, "I did not see him make any exertions for
our safety." He accompanied us to our tents, making many apologies for
the unhappy result of our visit; but Sir Moses would not speak to him,
as he (the Governor) was bound in honour and duty not to have
subjected us to such an insult.
We were scarcely in our tents before many people came running to us
from the Jews' quarter, saying that the Mussulmans were beating them
most unmercifully, and they were fearful of being murdered. Sir Moses
received letters from the representatives of the community, one of
whom had been so severely beaten that he was obliged to write from his
bed. Several others called who had also been very much ill-used. We
feared that perhaps we should also be attacked as soon as it was dark,
although Sir Moses felt no serious apprehension, should such an event
take place, as we had seventeen people with us, many of them well
armed. Nevertheless, as we strongly recommended it, he wrote a letter
to the Governor of Jerusalem, acquainting him with what had occurred,
and requesting him to send a few men as a guard.
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore then attended both the German and
Portuguese Synagogues, and distributed their benevolent gifts to the
men, women, and children in the same way as at Safed and Tiberias. We
then returned to our tents, took our dinner, and afterwards received
many visitors. Having looked to our arms and said our prayers, we
retired to rest, "confiding," Sir Moses observed, "in the protection
of Heaven."
_Tuesday, June 18th._--Our tents and luggage having been placed on our
mules, we left the olive ground, followed by the heads of the
community and many of our brethren. A few minutes later we were joined
by the Governor of the town and the Sheik, with his officers. They
again made many apologies for the occurrences of the previous day, and
accompanied us on our road for half-an-hour. The Jews also followed
us, singing psalms. Sir Moses entreated them to leave us, which they
did, after bestowing thousands of blessings on him and on Lady
Montefiore.
In less than a quarter of an hour we met the janissary whom Sir Moses
had sent to the Governor of Jerusalem. He came at full gallop, and had
several horsemen with him. He brought Sir Moses an answer from the
Governor, who had sent him twenty brave fellows, all well mounted and
armed. We waited a few moments till they all came up. They were
commanded by an Agha, who promised to defend us with his blood and
that of his men.
Sir Moses then requested our co-religionists to return to the town,
giving them numerous tokens of his love for the Holy City of Abraham
"the beloved." (This latter attribute the Mussulmans always attach to
the name of Abraham.) They departed with many blessings for their
devoted friends and protectors. The soldiers, janissaries, moukaries,
and our own attendants continued feasting and firing their muskets the
whole night, and making so desperate a noise as to render sleep
impossible.
Sir Moses afterwards learned that the Governor of Hebron had already
commenced showing his authority, much to the advantage of the Jews.
Having heard that one of them had been ill-treated by a Mussulman, the
Governor immediately caused the offender to be severely punished in
his presence as a caution to the Mussulmans against again committing a
similar offence.
_Wednesday, June 19th._--We left our encampment at seven, reaching the
tombs of Nathan the Prophet and Gad the Seer at half-past nine. Our
guards amused us on the way with a complete sham fight with lance,
sabre, musket, and pistol, advancing and retreating at full gallop.
They were all capital horsemen, and it was a most pleasing and lively
sight. We read our prayers at the tombs, which are situated near the
village of Halhool. Our road lay between the mountains, a continuous
desert, until we reached the plain. Sir Moses there discharged our
escort, made presents to the Agha and every one of his soldiers, and
sent a letter of thanks to the Governor of Jerusalem, accompanied by a
valuable telescope. We encamped for the night near the village of
Zaccariah, and started again the next morning at six.
_Thursday, 20th._--We proceeded _via_ Nayani to Beth Dagon, near
Ashdod, and reached Jaffa the next day. We encamped on the sands close
to the sea. The British and Russian Consuls soon after called,
bringing with them the sad intelligence that the plague was in the
town and neighbourhood.
The superintendent of the Quarantine then came to see Sir Moses, and
gave him a certificate which, we thought, would enable us to proceed
to Beyrout without performing quarantine. The Cadi and the Governor of
the town also called to pay their respects. The latter, being the
brother of the Governor of Jerusalem, was particularly attentive, and
sent presents of sheep and various kinds of fruit.
We left Jaffa on Sunday, reached the village of Emkhalet in the
evening, and encamped in a large and beautiful plain near Mount
Carmel. The next day we started at two o'clock in the morning, and at
seven arrived at Caesarea, where once stood the proud city of Herod. It
must have been a place of great magnificence, to judge from the
splendid remains of the granite columns; there is also every
appearance of its having had a fine harbour, most beautifully
situated. It is now, with the exception of some portions of the wall
which formerly surrounded the city, little more than an immense pile
of ruins. We had a very pleasant ride nearly the whole way, on the
sands close to the sea.
We left Emkhalet early in the morning. It was very dark, and we ran
great risk of serious accident, having to pass many deep holes, like
wells, in which the corn is laid up for the year. These were at that
time being filled in, so that they were left uncovered.
We breakfasted and rested till twelve, when we again set forward and
encamped in the evening at Tantura, the ancient city of Dor, of which
we read in the first Book of Kings that it was inhabited by the
son-in-law of King Solomon. We left our tents a few minutes after one
o'clock. We had a pleasant ride, great part of the way through a
beautiful plain between Mount Carmel and the sea. We passed not far
from some splendid ruins of a castle and town. On proceeding to the
spot, we found it to be "Athlit," some of the Arabs called it "Atlik,"
the Castellum Perigrinorum frequently mentioned by the Crusaders.
There are still many arches and vaults to be seen, as well as some
granite pillars. The remains of a church also attract the traveller's
attention; by the style of its architecture it is supposed to be of
Christian origin. There are some stones in the walls round the
building as large as, and similar to, those in the Western Wall at
Jerusalem.