1839.
INVITATION FROM THE PORTUGUESE CONGREGATION AT JERUSALEM--SANITARY
MEASURES IN THE HOLY CITY--THE WIVES OF THE GOVERNOR OF TIBERIAS VISIT
LADY MONTEFIORE--A PLEASANT JOURNEY--ARRIVAL AT JERUSALEM.
_Tuesday, May 28th._--The heat was very great. Sir Moses and Lady
Montefiore did not leave the house till nine o'clock, when they went
for a little while to the shore of the lake. Sir Moses received
letters from the heads of the Portuguese congregation at Jerusalem,
dated ten days back, informing him that they had prepared a house for
him, but were sorry they could not come out of the town to receive
him, as there was a cordon round the city. They did not mention one
word as to the state of the city, but in two other letters brought by
the same messenger, we learned that many Jews, whose names they gave,
had died of the plague, all the individuals in four houses being
stricken with it. In conversation with the messenger, the latter
informed Sir Moses that the plague was in Jerusalem and in all the
villages surrounding it; also at Gaza and Jaffa, adding that Sir Moses
might cut off his head if he had not spoken the truth.
Sir Moses determined to despatch a messenger to Mr W. T. Young, the
British Consul at Jerusalem. On applying to the Governor of Tiberias
to let him have a messenger with a good horse, he immediately sent us
a fine, handsome fellow, armed with pistols, sabre, &c. Sir Moses gave
him the letters, and he started instantly, at three o'clock in the
afternoon.
The Governor sent early in the morning to say that he wished to come
and pay his respects; at the same time he sent a small, very beautiful
gazelle for Lady Montefiore, which was there considered a valuable
present. Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore, having appointed twelve
o'clock for the interview, he came punctually at that hour,
accompanied by the Judge of the town and some half dozen of their
officers. Pipes, coffee, and sherbet were handed round. The Governor
was most friendly. He said he had made that day a holiday in the town
in honour of their visit, which had given joy and peace to all the
inhabitants, and that Sir Moses might command his services in any way
he pleased. Houses, servants, horses, &c., all were at his disposal.
He much regretted being obliged to leave the town himself with some
soldiers he had collected, who had to join Ibrahim Pasha. He would be
away about twenty days, but had desired his secretary to attend to any
request Sir Moses might make in his absence. He added a hope that Sir
Moses would come and settle in that part of the world, as the Jews
were in great need of a chief or leader; they could then take land and
engage in agriculture. Soon after he left, Lady Montefiore received an
invitation from the Governor's wives to come and dine with them,
saying that they had had a lamb killed and prepared for the occasion
by a person specially sent by the Jewish authorities of the place.
Lady Montefiore was anxious to accept the invitation that she might
see the interior of the harem, but it was thought she had better not
go, and an apology was sent, she pleading fatigue from the journey.
The Jews all agree in acknowledging that the present Governor is an
excellent friend to them. The Judge is not friendly to them, but the
Governor prevents him from doing them any mischief.
The representatives of the German and Portuguese congregations, each
attended by about twenty of their members, paid them visits, remaining
for about an hour in earnest conversation. They promised to have
ready, by the next day, statistical accounts of their communities,
which Sir Moses desired to have for his special guidance in the
distribution of the money he had brought for them.
_Wednesday, May 29th._--The heat during the night was most oppressive.
Most of the inhabitants placed their mattresses either on the roofs of
their houses or in the yards, and slept in the open air. In the
morning, before five, we rode on horseback to the hot baths, about
half-an-hour's distance from the town. These are natural hot springs.
Sir Moses did not find them sulphurous, but rather salt. They are
situated close to the lake, but the hot spring has its source in the
mountains. Ibrahim Pasha had erected a handsome building, with some
rooms for the use of bathers. The large bath, which is circular, would
accommodate one hundred persons. There are also two chambers with
handsome marble baths. There is a room, commanding a beautiful view of
the lake and distant mountains, where, after having taken the bath,
one can enjoy an hour's rest, and partake of coffee and sherbet
prepared by the attendants there.
On their return from the bath they visited the tombs of some
distinguished teachers in Israel, whose resting-places were pointed
out by the gentlemen who accompanied them.
In the course of the day the Governor's wives sent to say they wished
to have the pleasure of paying Lady Montefiore a visit. They also sent
for her acceptance a fine large sheep.
Lady Montefiore, in her diary, gives full particulars of the visit.
The Governor, she was told, had four wives, but only three of them
came. They were attended by a black girl, and by a man as their guard,
as well as by the mother of the Governor's youngest wife. The first
wife, who is considered to be, and is also called, "The Great Lady,"
was a pleasing and intelligent woman; the other two were somewhat
younger, but equally good-looking, the age of the youngest being about
eighteen, and the eldest thirty. All of them were exceedingly
good-tempered. When Sir Moses asked them if they could read, the
eldest one replied in the negative, "but," said she, "the Agha intends
marrying another lady, so that she may teach us to do so; we shall all
be pleased if he does."
They became very chatty, and were most desirous that Lady Montefiore
should visit them, and go on the water with them to the bath. "The
great lady" smoked a chibouk, but did not offer it to the others. Lady
Montefiore made each of them a present of a neat gold ring set with
mosaics, with which they were much pleased. They said it was the first
visit they had ever paid; they were not even allowed to visit their
own brothers, but the Agha was so pleased with Lady Montefiore, that
he wished his wives to see her. The ladies remained two hours, and I
had to act as interpreter. About fifty members of the Portuguese
community came to see us, and we had a long conversation with them on
the subject of the cultivation of land in the vicinity of the town.
Many members of the German congregation arrived at the same time to
pay their respects to Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore, and also joined
our conversation on the subject. The early marriages, which are
customary in the East amongst all classes of society, were warmly
discussed by all present. To Europeans the custom appears strange, and
a great drawback to the promotion of happiness among the contracting
parties, as well as to society in general. Orientals, on the contrary,
think it most desirable to preserve a custom which they consider
beneficial, and conducive to the happiness of families.
_Thursday, May 30th._--On this day the distribution of money took
place. Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore themselves put their gifts into
the hand of every man, woman, and child of the Hebrew, as well as of
the Mussulman and Christian congregations. Their labour was not
finished before ten in the evening, the trouble and fatigue of the
distribution being exceptionally great, in consequence of the lists
containing the names and descriptions of the recipients not having
been correctly prepared. Of the sheep brought to Lady Montefiore by
the Governor's wives, Sir Moses distributed to the descendants of
Aaron those parts which, according to an injunction of Holy Writ,
belong to them, a proceeding which afforded much gratification both to
donor and the recipients.
_Friday, May 31st._--Another visit was paid to the different
localities in which the tombs of the renowned teachers in Israel had
been pointed out to them. In the afternoon they attended the
Portuguese Synagogue, and in the evening, after the Sabbath repast,
hundreds of members of the community sat down in the spacious
courtyard in order to enjoy a full view of the honoured pilgrims, who
were singing Psalms and Sabbath hymns. The evening was beautiful; the
whole place was illuminated with variegated lamps, and the Oriental
holiday attire of the many ladies who surrounded the fountain of cool
and refreshing water, made the scene charming and picturesque in the
extreme.
The next day they attended divine service in the German Synagogue, and
were present at the naming of a child, the son of a distinguished
member of the community, to whom they had been requested to act as
god-parents. In the afternoon, having attended service in the Russian
place of worship, they visited the heads of that congregation, and
spent the evening at home in receiving the numerous friends who called
on them.
_Sunday, June 2nd._--At half-past 5 P.M. we left Tiberias. Hundreds of
persons came to see us off, and followed us. The officers of the
Governor (he having gone with some troops to Damascus), with about a
dozen soldiers and some attendants, also accompanied us for nearly
half-an-hour. We rode for two hours and a half over the hills. Towards
the west the land was very rich, and sown with wheat, barley, and
oats, but not well cultivated. We pitched our tents at Eyn Louba. The
effect of the numerous glowworms and fireflies in the darkness of the
night was extremely beautiful. Late in the evening a messenger arrived
from Caiffa, bringing Sir Moses a letter from Beyrout. There had been
no battle, but both parties were in daily expectation of hostilities.
The plague, it was reported, had broken out in Damascus, and the
country, both around that city and Beyrout, had begun to be in a very
disturbed state. Several travellers had been robbed, but the post
still passed. All vessels from Alexandria had to perform quarantine;
most of the villages in Palestine were infected with the plague.
_Monday, June 3rd._--We started at five and halted at 6.40 for the
mules with our luggage. We were not travelling the usual way, as we
wished to avoid the villages as much as possible. We were then near
the highest point of Mount Tabor; we had crossed some of the richest
land imaginable, and seen many fig and almond trees, pomegranates,
prickly pears, &c. We reposed under an almond tree till our luggage
came up. The servants had mistaken the way, and one of the janissaries
was obliged to go in search of them. We set forward again at eight,
and rode till 1.30 P.M. We then rested near a rivulet, in the shade of
a small cavern in the front of the mountain, commanding an extensive
view of the rich plain, nearly the whole of which was in a state of
cultivation. Almost all the crops were cut. On the mountain above us,
Jacob and Laban made their league together, and called it Gal-ed. We
started again at 4 P.M., and rode till seven, when we pitched our
tents in a very pretty orchard of fig-trees and pomegranates, the
latter covered with blossoms.
_Tuesday, June 4th._--After taking a cup of coffee, we set off at five
in the morning from Djouni, riding through a lovely country of
mountains, hills, dales, valleys, and plains, all truly splendid, and
in the highest state of cultivation (wheat, barley, oats, &c.). We
passed many towns and villages, but did not enter them. This part of
the country appeared well populated. The inhabitants were good
farmers, and possessed horses, cows, oxen, sheep, and goats in great
abundance. There were also olive and mulberry trees of very great age,
apparently many centuries old, and there was more skill displayed in
their cutting than we had hitherto noticed in the Holy Land. It was a
complete garden. "I have never seen," Sir Moses observed, "any country
so rich and beautiful. We rested under a grove of fig-trees, in a
garden surrounded by the most magnificent scenery; the spot might well
have been termed, 'a garden of Eden, a very Paradise.'" We amused
ourselves by discussing the writings of Hillel the elder, and reading
extracts from the works of Maimonides.
At two we proceeded on our journey till six. The road was very rocky,
and the ride, especially the descent to Nablous, the ancient city of
Shechem, exceedingly difficult. We encamped close to the well of
Jacob. Many of our brethren came from the city to welcome us, and
brought with them some fine poultry and fruit, which they requested
Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore to accept. They did not enter our tents,
as we were fearful of contagion.
Sir Moses had, eight or ten days previously, sent them a number of
printed forms, for the purpose of inserting under particular headings
any statistical information they could give respecting their own
community. These he now requested them to let him have, as he desired
to distribute some money among those who stood in need of assistance.
Fortunately they had already prepared the papers required, and it did
not take long to send a messenger to the Synagogue, who brought them
without delay.
_Wednesday, June 5th._--We visited the tomb of Joseph, and copied the
inscription on the wall. We said our prayers there, and proceeded to
the village of Awarta, where we copied the Samaritan and Arabic
inscriptions on the tombs of Phineas, Eleazar, and Ithamar, the sons
of Aaron the High Priest. We also visited the tombs said to be those
of the seventy elders, and then continued our way to Jerusalem. At
twelve o'clock we rejoined our attendants, who had already prepared
various refreshments for us in a tent pitched for our accommodation,
near a well called "Eyn" or Khan Lebban. We were much fatigued, and
the heat was excessive. While we were partaking of our repast, many
persons, travellers and others, came to water their beasts. Some of
the Mussulmans, after performing their ablutions at the well, said
their prayers, and a number of young women, with pitchers on their
heads, came from the neighbourhood to fetch the cool water from the
inexhaustible spring of Laban.
At four o'clock we left this pleasing scene, and ascended a high
mountain by a desperately stoney road, on the edge of precipices. On
the summit we were surprised at finding a very lovely plain, well
cultivated, and with many gardens, containing fig, olive, and almond
trees, as well as vines. We erected our tents at six o'clock in the
corner of a field near the village of Snidgil. Both on that and the
previous day we met many families, Jews, Christians, and Mussulmans,
flying from Jerusalem to escape the plague; the accounts which they
gave us were extremely alarming.
_Thursday, June 6th._--We were on horseback at half-past four in the
morning. The day was cool and pleasant. Our road lay between the
mountains, in a narrow pass, formed by the dry bed of a torrent, with
gardens on each side. The mountains were cultivated in terraces, and
planted to the summit with vines and olives--"a lovely scene," Sir
Moses observed. Indeed it would have been impossible to travel through
a richer or more beautiful country.
We stopped to rest and take some refreshments, and started again,
ascending an extremely barren mountain, and at two o'clock reached
Shabia, or Gibeah, the commencement of the scene of destruction.
We dismounted, and read some of the Lamentations of Jeremiah, then
continued our journey till three o'clock, when we had the first view
of Jerusalem. Dismounting once again, we recited the usual prayers.
Hearing that the plague was yet in the city, Sir Moses deemed it
prudent not to enter. We therefore passed the walls and went up the
Mount of Olives, where we pitched our tents on a spot commanding a
magnificent view of the Holy City and Mosque of Omar, near the tomb of
"Huldah" the prophetess.
For two hours before reaching Jerusalem, the road by which we
travelled was stoney and deserted. Not a blade of grass or a tree was
visible. "Most fervently do I pray," Sir Moses remarked, "that the
wilderness of Zion may again be like Eden, and her desert like the
garden of the Lord."
_Friday, June 7th._--Before Sir Moses was up, the Governor of the city
came to pay him his respects, and waited till he was ready to receive
him, which he did under one of the olive trees, as we had declared
ourselves in quarantine. The Governor was exceedingly friendly, and
offered to accompany Sir Moses to the Jordan, Dead Sea, and Hebron,
and to do him any service in his power; he also sent a present of five
sheep. All the representatives of the Portuguese and German
congregations, accompanied by crowds of their members, came up to give
a heartfelt welcome to their future champion and his excellent wife,
bringing with them numerous presents of choice wines, fruit, and
cakes, besides articles of rich embroidery.
_Saturday, June 8th._--We recited our prayers under the shade of an
olive tree, directly opposite the spot where stood the Temple of
Solomon. Our situation commanded a splendid view of every part of the
city and the surrounding mountains. Our happy moments were
unfortunately disturbed by the wailing of the Mohammedan mourning
women who followed no less than four funerals. In the course of the
day all the leading members of the community came to visit us. When
Sir Moses spoke to them on the desirability of procuring work for the
poor, the majority of those present expressed themselves in favour of
agriculture. In the evening, while sitting in our tent, a jackal stole
noiselessly in. Sir Moses and Lady Montefiore were a little alarmed at
the incident, which recalled to their minds the words of the prophet,
"For this our heart is faint, for these things our eyes are dim,
because of the mountain of Zion, which is desolate, the foxes
(jackals) walk upon it" (Lamentations v. 17, 18).
In the course of conversation with Mr Young, the English Consul, the
latter expressed his approval of the Jews being employed in
agriculture. He advised beginning in a small way, so as not to excite
the suspicions of Mohhammad Ali. Mrs Young gave Lady Montefiore some
distressing accounts of the poverty of the people, and pointed out the
necessity of at once finding them some means of earning a livelihood.
Money, the Consul said, was very scarce in Jerusalem; he had lost by
every bill he had cashed for travellers. Five weeks previously he had
sent his servant to Beyrout for L300, and he was fearful he had either
been robbed of the money, or else had run away with it.
_Sunday, June 9th._--More than three hundred visitors came to see Sir
Moses and Lady Montefiore. The Governor also called again to say that
he was very anxious they should enter the city, that the people might
have an opportunity of showing their esteem for them. Sir Moses, in
reply, said that he and Lady Montefiore would visit the city on the
following Wednesday. The Governor then arranged that he would come
himself with some soldiers to conduct them, that they might run no
risk, and begged Sir Moses would ride his horse.
_Monday, June 10th._--We rose early and rode round the walls of the
city, and through the valley of Jehoshaphat. Having descended Mount
Zion, we passed the Pool of Siloam, and crossing the bridge over the
Brook Kidron, visited all the important tombs and monuments in the
valley. We then read our Psalms, and returned to our tents for
breakfast. Again hundreds of visitors arrived, amongst whom were four
Scotch clergymen, who were making a tour in the Holy Land to enquire
into the state of the Jews there; they intended going through Poland
for the same purpose.
The following day, being the anniversary of Sir Moses and Lady
Montefiore's wedding, they gave a special feast to all their
attendants, which prompted the janissaries, guides, and moukaries to
sing praises of the devout pilgrims, and invoke heavenly blessings on
their benefactors.