1827-1828.
MR AND MRS MONTEFIORE LEAVE ALEXANDRIA--A SEA VOYAGE SIXTY YEARS
AGO.
_Wednesday, November 7th, 1827._--Mr and Mrs Montefiore left Egypt. At
11 A.M. they were out of the harbour, sailing under the protection of
the French schooner _La Dauphinoise_, Capt. Auvray, the convoy
consisting of four French, one Austrian, three English, and one
Russian vessel.
_Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday._--They proceeded with some
difficulty, but on Friday, November 30, all on board thought they
would be able to enter the harbour of Malta, as the weather was
favourable, and Captain Anderson had resolved to make the attempt,
although the sun had already set. In about two hours they were so near
the shore that they could see the lights distinctly, and they could
not have been more than a mile from the mouth of the port. All were
extremely happy, expecting to anchor within an hour. "How frail are
human joys," exclaims Mr Montefiore; "most suddenly the wind had
changed again to the west, and commenced blowing in a terrific manner.
Thus, in an instant, were our hopes gone, and we were blown off the
land, a tremendous sea obliging us to take to our beds. God only knows
when we shall reach Malta."
_Saturday, December 1._--"The last was a dreadful night," he writes,
"it blew almost a hurricane: a frightful sea: the ship rolled and
pitched so as to occasion serious alarm to all on board. Poor Judith
suffered severely. The captain had never in his life experienced a
worse night, and to prevent our being blown further off Malta, he
carried a press of sail. I shall never forget the night, but on each
Sabbath eve shall recollect with gratitude God's mercy in saving us
from destruction. This morning, at daybreak, we were five miles off
Malta, having retained this situation by tacking backwards and
forwards during the night. The weather continued rough and stormy,
but thanks be to the Almighty God, we anchored safely in the
quarantine harbour at half-past seven, after a long and boisterous
voyage of twenty-four days."
In commemoration of this merciful event, it became a custom of Mr
Montefiore, from the year in which it took place, to the last year of
his life, to read on the first night of the Passover Festival, the
entry he then made in his journal, consisting of several appropriate
verses from the Psalms of David.
"Sir John Stoddart wrote me a very friendly note, and came to the
waterside to see us. After dinner we left the _Leonidas_, having spent
more than three months in Captain Anderson's company, and slept
sixty-eight nights on board his ship. He was most attentive and
obliging, and we left him with regret."
At five minutes past five they entered the Lazaretto.
_Sunday, December 2nd._--The Governor sent his private secretary to
thank them for a turtle which they had brought him as a present, and
to enquire after their health, requesting particularly to be informed
how the news of the battle of Navarino had been received at
Alexandria. Mr Montefiore replied by a special letter. Sir John
Stoddart, the chief judge, with his daughter and Mr Maxwell, came to
pay them a visit, but they were not allowed to approach within two
yards of them. Captains Anderson and Jones called and brought the news
that the _Martha_, Captain Smart, had come into harbour; they had been
plundered and dreadfully ill-treated by the Greeks.
In the course of their stay at Malta, Mr and Mrs Montefiore had the
pleasure of receiving a visit from Captain Lewis Davies of the _Rose_,
the hero of Navarino; they had met him before at the houses of Mr
Barker and the late Mr Salt in Alexandria. He remained with them a
full hour, giving a most interesting description of the battle.
After so long an absence abroad, Mr Montefiore, one might have
thought, would have been longing to be back in England to take a rest,
but he has no such idea; on the contrary, he is already planning
another tour in connection with business. On Sunday, December 9th, he
writes, "I much wish it may be in my power, after our return to
England, to see Vienna, and visit our Gas Establishments at Berlin,
Hanover, Rotterdam, and Ghent. I shall strive to do so, provided I
succeed in reaching London by the end of February. As soon as we get
pratique, we shall endeavour to procure a vessel for Palermo, remain
there a couple of days, thence to Naples, where I hope to get letters
from our dear mother and friends."
In the course of this narrative we shall have frequent opportunities
of witnessing a peculiar characteristic of his. When he had achieved
some great work, and was yet engaged in affixing his signature to a
report on the same, whilst all his fellow-workers were exhausted with
fatigue, his restless activity would impel him to begin a fresh scheme
for the alleviation of distress or for the cause of humanity,
notwithstanding his own exertions, and in spite of many nights of
anxiety which may have attended his former enterprise.
_Thursday, December 13th._--This being the 1966th anniversary of the
victory of the Maccabees, Mr and Mrs Montefiore celebrated it by
special prayers and thanksgivings, an additional number of lights
being burnt in honour of the occasion. A Russian officer, who happened
to be their neighbour in the Lazaretto, spoke in glowing terms of the
bravery of Jewish soldiers in Russia, and of their wonderful endurance
in the days of want and distress so often experienced during the war.
When Mr (then Sir Moses) Montefiore appeared before the Emperor
Nicholas in the year 1846 to plead the cause of his brethren, he had
the satisfaction of hearing similar remarks from His Majesty's lips.
_Friday, 14th December._--Lady Stoddart and her son paid them a visit;
Captain and Mrs Copeland also came to see them. The Captain said there
was great probability of war, adding that the Franks had escaped from
Constantinople, and that the Ambassadors were expected to leave
immediately.
_Monday, December 17th._--They visited every part of the Lazaretto,
and found the hospital clean, and in excellent order, but untenanted.
They also went to see the English cemetery, where those who die whilst
in quarantine or on board ship in the harbour are buried. About a
dozen graves are always kept ready for immediate use. Describing the
process of fumigating letters and papers, which they saw that day, Mr
Montefiore says: "The letters are opened and placed in an iron closet,
or on an iron grid; a saucepan containing burning bran and sulphur is
then placed on the ground beneath them, and the closet is shut for
fifteen minutes. They are then taken out again, and the process is
complete."
_Tuesday, December 18th._--Several vessels came into the quarantine
harbour, and Mr Montefiore had an interesting conversation with Mr de
Wimmer, a "Lieutenant au Corps de Chasseurs d'Ordonnance de S.M.
l'Empereur de toutes les Russies," who had been with the Emperor
Alexander at the time of his death. They also received a letter from
Monsieur Peynado Correa, informing them that the Governor had
confirmed the constitution given to the Jews by Sir Thomas Maitland.
_Wednesday, December 19th._--A ship arrived from Constantinople,
having performed the journey in twelve days. It brought the news that
the Ambassadors had left the same day, and that all ships of the
Allied Powers were put under embargo. While at dinner Mr Montefiore
received a polite note from Mr Greig, containing the welcome
intelligence that they should have pratique on the next day. "This
indulgence," Mr Montefiore observes, "is extremely kind on the part of
the Governor, although we have been very comfortable, and had not one
irksome hour during the whole time we have been confined in the
Lazaretto."
_Thursday, December 20th._--They left the Lazaretto.
_Saturday, December 22nd._--Mr Montefiore, accompanied by Sir John
Stoddart, called on Admiral Codrington. He had a very polite reception
both from the Admiral and Lady Codrington. The Admiral said he had
been very much interested in the account which Mr Montefiore sent him
of the manner in which the Pasha received the news of the battle of
Navarino, and took much pains to explain his motives for commencing
hostilities. He said the ministers did not seem aware of all the
instructions he had received from Stratford Canning. In reply to Mr
Montefiore's enquiry, the Admiral said that if the Turks would not
listen to his speaking-trumpet, he would have to make use of the
cannon. He had on several occasions made signal for battle before the
20th of October, but his good star had attended him, and he had been
prevented; the first time by adverse winds, and on the second occasion
the French fleet came up in time to over-awe the Turks, and they
returned. The Pasha had expressed his intention of throwing off his
allegiance to the Porte, and professed great friendship for the
French Admiral, commanding his son, Ibrahim Pasha, to follow his
directions; he also wished to write to the English himself afterwards.
Admiral Codrington did not give the Pasha credit for much sincerity.
He then spoke about the Greek pirates and Greek Government, and
promised Mr Montefiore a passage to Naples, after which the latter
took his leave.
_Sunday, December 23rd._--They took a walk over the Silk Company's
estate, which they had visited early in the autumn. Since that time
about 3000 young trees had been transplanted, new walls had been
erected, ditches cut, and ground prepared for the reception of French
and Neapolitan shrubs. They were disappointed to learn that the sale
of the garden produce scarcely brought enough to cover the expense of
sending it to market, fruit and vegetables being so plentiful and
cheap. The orange trees were almost breaking down under their load of
fruit, which scarcely paid for the gathering. The "nopal" or prickly
pears have been rooted up, as well as most of the vines and figs. A
few young nopals have been planted, and some preparation made for
experiments in cochineal. Mr Montefiore writes: "The ditches
discovered on the south side of the valley have evidently been ancient
tombs. Those on the hill, round and near the palace, were no doubt
planted with trees, and there is every reason to believe that they may
be found running in every direction on the estate."
Sir Edward Codrington offered them a convoy for the next day, but Mr
Montefiore requested him to permit the _Mastiff_, Captain Copeland, to
take them to Naples, which request was kindly granted.
_Sunday, December 30th._--In the evening the Admiral sent his
Secretary to Mr Montefiore with the letters, requesting that he would
deliver them personally--one to Lord Burghersh at Florence, and
another to the Duke of Clarence.
_Monday, December 31st._--"A very tempestuous day," he writes; "the
wind is so high that it is impossible for any vessel to get out of the
harbour. We must have patience, and wait a little longer. I feel
rather better," he adds, "but my neck still continues troublesome."
This being the last day of the civil year, a feeling of deep
thankfulness prompts him to end his diary with a prayer similar to the
one he uttered on the conclusion of the Jewish year.
The homeward journey was not marked by any incidents which call for
special description. Wherever the travellers halted they followed the
daily itinerary, which, once settled, was never departed from, and it
was as follows:--First they repaired to Synagogue, then they went to
the principal Jewish communal schools and institutions, and in the
course of the afternoon exchanged visits with friends or with those to
whom they had letters of introduction, whilst the local sights were by
no means forgotten.
_Friday, January 11th, 1828._--The _Mastiff_, having left Malta on the
2nd of January, was towed into the harbour of Naples, where they
anchored. Mr and Mrs Montefiore proceeded at once to the hotel, where
they met Baron and Baroness Amschel Rothschild, their handsome son,
Baron Charles Rothschild, and Baroness Charlotte Rothschild.
A few days later they visited Herculaneum and Pompeii.
_Wednesday, January 16th._--Mrs Montefiore dined at Baron Charles',
but Mr Montefiore was not well enough to accompany her. It was a large
dinner party, and the guests included the Austrian Ambassador with his
wife, the Duke and Duchess D'Ascoli, the Duke and Duchess Theodore,
Sir Henry and Lady Lushington, and others.
_Thursday, January 17th._--Mr Montefiore was still obliged to keep his
room the whole day. Captain Copeland gave an entertainment on board
the _Mastiff_ to Baroness Charlotte Rothschild, Mrs Montefiore, and
Barons Charles and Anselm Rothschild, who afterwards dined with Mr
Montefiore. In the evening Mrs Montefiore accompanied Baroness
Charlotte to a ball at the Sardinian Embassy, to which both she and Mr
Montefiore had been invited by the Marquis and Marchioness di S.
Saturius. Mrs Montefiore said there were about five hundred of the
nobility present, who had been invited in honour of the Princess
Salerno, a daughter of the Emperor of Austria, whom she saw there
enjoying a waltz.
_Friday, January 18th._--The Duke and Duchess D'Ascoli paid Mrs
Montefiore a long visit. The Duchess appeared to take great interest
in the Holy Land, making many enquiries on subjects connected with
Sacred Scripture. When she had obtained all the information Mrs
Montefiore could give her, she asked to see the curiosities which the
latter had brought with her. Mrs Montefiore produced the whole of her
collection. The Duchess seemed especially pleased with a shell
engraved with historical subjects by a Bethlehem artist. Mrs
Montefiore requested her acceptance of it, and the Duchess appeared
much gratified.
_Sunday, January 20th._--Mr Montefiore called on the Secretary of the
British Legation, with whom he left the Admiral's letter for Lord
Burghersh.
_Thursday, January 24th._--We find them at Rome, visiting some of the
principal studios of the sculptors, Albertus Thorwaldsen, Canova, his
successor Cincinnato Baruzzi, and others. At the studio of Guiseppe
Pacetti in the Via Sisterno they saw an ancient statue of a negress
with flowers, for which Mr Montefiore intended to make an offer.
_Friday, January 25th._--They visited the Vatican, and all the
museums, galleries, and places of interest.
_Sunday, January 27th._--In the course of the day they received a
deputation from the community, who informed them that there were in
Rome 3500 of their brethren, of whom the majority were poor, and Mr
Montefiore requested their acceptance of his and Mrs Montefiore's
offerings to alleviate the distress. He purchased the female figure,
in black marble, representing Abundance, which he had seen on the
previous Thursday in the Via Sisterno, with the intention of placing
it in the hall of his house at Park Lane. The next day they left Rome.
_Friday, February 1st._--They reached Leghorn safely, where Mr
Montefiore at once offered up the following prayer:--
"Praise and most humble and sincere thanks to the Giver of all Good,
the Creator of heaven and earth, for all His manifold mercies towards
me, for having preserved me from so many perils and brought me safe to
the city of my birth, and in the enjoyment of one of the greatest
blessings Providence has bestowed on me, the company of my dear
Judith, the companion and sharer of all my danger."
_Saturday, February 2nd._--They visited the Synagogue. It was crowded.
The state of Mr Montefiore's health not being as satisfactory as he
could have wished, he sent for a physician.
_Sunday, February 3rd._--They remained in the hotel, Mr Montefiore not
feeling well. "Were it not," he writes, "for the extreme anxiety I
feel to see my dear mother, I should, without the slightest
hesitation, resolve upon remaining in Italy for six months at the
Baths of Casciana, about twenty miles from here. I find my complaint
gets worse every day. God help me!"
_Monday, February 4th._--They visit the schools. A deputation from the
Institution "Or Tora," consisting of Messrs Joseph Uzielli, Abram
Pardo, Michael Buznah, and Salomoni Mortara, received them. "I was
much delighted," says Mr Montefiore, "with the appearance and
behaviour of the boys, who have made great progress in their studies.
Most of the seniors, although not more than fourteen, are perfect
masters of the Hebrew language, and can write in the same on any
subject of their studies that may be given them. They receive a most
liberal education, even music and drawing. There are about sixty boys;
some few pay six francs a month. After the portion of the Pentateuch
is read on Sabbath in the Synagogue, the boys draw lots which one
should read the portion from the Prophets. All must therefore be well
prepared." Mr Montefiore next went to a school open to all children of
poor Jews who are in Leghorn. There were about 150 boys present. They
are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic on the Lancastrian
principle. They then proceeded to the girls' schools, where, in
addition to the above subjects, children are taught needlework and
straw-plaiting for bonnets. Some of the girls, not more than eight or
nine years old, translated the Hebrew prayers. Mr and Mrs Montefiore,
in token of the satisfaction they had felt at the inspection of the
schools, left generous presents for the pupils.
They then journeyed through La Spezia, Chiavari, Genoa, Novi, Turin,
Suza, Lanslebourg, Maltaveme, Sava, Les Echelles, Lyons, La Palisse,
and Neuville, in their own carriage, then on to Paris and Calais,
where they arrived on Wednesday.
"I am still," Mr Montefiore says, "very unwell indeed. I feel that
some disorder is making daily and rapid strides; am most anxious to
reach home for the benefit of rest and quiet. The newspapers appear
very warlike, and I think there can be but little doubt as to the
truth of their reports. I hope I shall not be induced to enter into
any large speculation; never having been endowed with courage in my
younger days, it would now be nothing less than downright folly. May
heaven guard me from my friends as well as from my enemies."