1827.
FIRST JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM.
The reader having accompanied Mr and Mrs Montefiore through the first
period of their life and work, and seen them deservedly raised to a
position enabling them, if so disposed, to take a prominent part in
important public movements, I shall now describe all the incidents of
note in connection with their pursuits in the second period of their
lives.
In the year 1827 they decided to visit Jerusalem. Their sole reason
for this determination was a wish to visit the Holy Land, a land with
which their race is connected by so many associations, and of which
the name is kept in loving remembrance in the prayers recited daily by
every true Israelite.
Mrs Montefiore has given a most interesting account of that journey in
her private journal, printed, but not published, and the following
narrative is based upon the entries made therein, and in the diaries
of Mr Montefiore. For the better understanding of those extracts which
bear upon politics, it may not be out of place to briefly recapitulate
the circumstances of the one important event that occurred in the
administration of Viscount Goderich (Mr Robinson), who succeeded
Canning as Premier under George IV. This event was the battle of
Navarino, which was followed by the establishment of Greek
independence. The cause of Greece was supported, from different
motives (see Brewer's "Hume"), by Russia, France, and England. These
Powers had their squadrons in the Levant, the English being under the
command of Sir Edward Codrington. War had not yet been declared; the
Turkish and Egyptian fleet, under Ibrahim Pasha, lay in the Bay of
Navarino, and there was an understanding that it should remain till
the affairs of Greece were arranged. As the Turks attempted to violate
this agreement a general engagement ensued, and the Turkish and
Egyptian fleets were completely destroyed in the course of a few
hours. By this impolitic act England and France played into the hands
of Russia, who was anxious to weaken the power of Turkey, and thus
they gave some help towards the long-cherished object of her
ambition--the possession of Constantinople.
On May 1st, 1827 (5587-8 A.M.), Mr and Mrs Montefiore repaired to
Synagogue as was their custom early in the morning before undertaking
any important work, for the purpose of invoking the blessing of Divine
Providence on this their first and long-projected journey to
Jerusalem. Fortified with letters of introduction, in the first
instance, to Admiral Codrington, then commanding on the Mediterranean
Station, and taking with them their own carriages, they travelled
_via_ Dover, Calais, Turin, Milan, Florence, and Rome to Naples. Here
a nephew of Mr Amschel Rothschild assisted them in obtaining a vessel
to take them to Malta, where they visited the plantations of the Silk
Company on the ditch of Porto Reale. There were about 5000 mulberry
trees at this place, as well as about 400 at Sal Marson, "all looking
healthy. We were present," says Mrs Montefiore, "at a dinner given by
us in the Palace to the men, women, and children, who were and had
been employed by the Silk Company, to the number of 140. The hall was
beautifully decorated with shrubs and flowers, and 'Welcome' was
written in large letters at the top of the room. There were many
joints of beef, a sheep roasted whole, macaroni, rice, bread, cheese,
water melons, and good wine. Everyone had as much as he could eat and
drink. The broken victuals and wine were afterwards distributed among
the poor to the number of thirty. A band of music then entered the
hall, and all present danced, as happy as people could be."
At the Palace Mr Montefiore delivered Lord Auckland's and Lord
Strangford's letters to the Governor, the Hon. F. C. Ponsonby, who
advised him to go to the East in a ship of war, on account of the
Greek pirates.
Amidst numerous kind and flattering attentions from the residents,
amongst whom were Sir John Stoddart, Mr and Mrs St John, Captain
Roberts, Colonel Bathurst, and Miss Hamilton, amidst amusements and
excursions to Gozo and Marfa, Mr and Mrs Montefiore did not forget on
Thursday, the 2nd of August, the fast which was kept on the day of
the anniversary of the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem. "Thank
God," he says in his diary, "we are quite well after breaking our
fast, which we did at 9.35, several stars being then visible. The day
has been dreadfully hot and fatiguing. My poor wife suffered so much
that I endeavoured to persuade her to break her fast about four
o'clock, but she would not. I felt extremely weak, but was free from
headache."
The next day, Captain Anderson of the _Leonidas_ called and agreed to
take Mr and Mrs Montefiore and two servants to Alexandria, for a
consideration of L400, and to wait there twenty days, and then take
them to Jaffa. At this stage Mrs Montefiore was taken ill, but owing
to the kind attention of Lady Stoddart, and the assistance of Mr
Milan, the Governor's medical adviser, she soon recovered.
Mr and Mrs Montefiore now embarked on board the _Leonidas_, and sailed
under convoy of the _Garnet_, with four other vessels to Alexandria.
From here they proceeded to Cairo and the Pyramids, where, by the
courtesy of Mr Salt, the British Consul General, Mr Montefiore had the
honour of being presented to Mohhammad 'Ali Pasha in full divan. Mr
Maltass, the Vice Consul, acted as interpreter, the Pacha speaking
Turkish and his visitor French. "We were graciously received," Mr
Montefiore says, "and remained in conversation three quarters of an
hour. We had coffee with him. He spoke much of his wishes to improve
his people, enquired where I was going, if I was pleased with Egypt,
and paid me some compliments. After the interview I rode to the
Obelisk. On my return I called on Mr Salt. I found him much alarmed at
the non-arrival of a despatch which had been sent by an English sloop
of war. The Porte had refused the mediation, and the English Admiral
had orders to act. Mr Salt was to see the Pasha in the morning, and
would then set off for Alexandria. The Pasha wrote to him saying that
Mr Canning had died on the 22nd."
The party now returned to Alexandria, where they heard conflicting
news with regard to the possibility of war. Meanwhile they visited all
places of interest, especially the Synagogues, where the services
appeared somewhat strange to them. Special mention is made of the
Synagogue of Signor Fua, which they visited on New Year's Day, many of
the tunes sung there being the same as those used in the London
Synagogues. The portion of the Sacred Scriptures was admirably read
there by a young boy, "more in the German manner than in the
Portuguese." The Scroll of the Pentateuch was in a wooden case, over
which was the cloak, and the President called up as many as twenty to
hear the Law read to them. The day of Atonement and the Tabernacle
Holidays had to be spent here in consequence of the impossibility of
obtaining means of proceeding further. "I have still every desire,"
says Mr Montefiore, "to proceed to Jerusalem, but cannot find any
person willing to go with me. Although the plague was at Acre, the
whole of Syria in revolt, the Christians fleeing to the mountains for
safety, the question of peace or war still undecided, he himself ill,
and Mrs Montefiore by no means recovered from her recent attack, he
nevertheless determined at all risks to proceed to Jaffa and
Jerusalem." "I find," he observed to his anxious wife, "my health and
strength failing me so fast in this city, that I deem it now prudent
to flee from it, even at the chance of encountering the 'Greek
pirates.'" He engaged for this purpose the _Henry Williams_, a brig of
167 tons, under Captain Jones, to take them to Jaffa and bring them
back for L50.
"I think," he says, "I more ardently desire to leave Egypt than ever
our forefathers did. No one will ever recite the passover service"
(which gives an account of the exodus from Egypt) "with more true
devotion than I shall do, when it pleases Providence to restore me to
my own country, and redeem me and my dear wife from this horrible land
of misery and plague, the hand of God being still upon it."
These are expressions to which most persons in Egypt might frequently
give utterance, when in a state of great pain and irritation,
tormented by thousands of mosquitoes, and more especially when living
in small confined apartments like those of the casino then occupied by
Mr Montefiore. Only those who have been in Egypt fifty or sixty years
ago can form an idea of the discomfort a traveller then had to put up
with, and this was naturally keenly felt by those who, like Mr
Montefiore, had been used to every comfort and attention in an English
home.
_Tuesday, October 16th._--They arrive at Jaffa. The Governor at first
refused to allow any Franks to land, and ordered Captain Jones off,
but the British Consul having procured permission for them, they
landed at mid-day. They found the road level and very sandy, lined
with prickly pear, pomegranate, fig, orange, and lemon trees, the
finest they had ever seen. On reaching Ramlah, Mr Montefiore was so
fatigued he could scarcely dismount; almost too weak to walk.
_Wednesday, October 17th._--They left Ramlah at 7 A.M., and entered
the gate of David at Jerusalem at 5 P.M.
On approaching the holy city they dismount, manifesting their grief at
the sight of Jerusalem in ruins, as mourners do when bewailing the
loss of some dear relative. Mr and Mrs Montefiore then offered up a
fervent prayer, giving thanks to God for having brought them safely to
Jerusalem, the great and long desired object of their journey, and
praying for His blessing on all they loved.
They then repaired to the house of Mr Joseph Amzalak, while the
gentlemen who accompanied them took up their quarters in the Greek
convent.
_Thursday, October 18th._--They attend Synagogue at break of day in
the house of their host. "Thanks to Providence," Mr Montefiore says,
"I feel better, though still very weak." They receive visits from the
head and representatives of the Spanish Hebrew community, also from
the head and representatives of the German Hebrew community, all
making the kindest offers of their services. Great complaints were
made of poverty in Jerusalem, and oppression by the Governors, who
were for ever calling for more money. "There are," they said, "fifty
Portuguese families, consisting of about 200 individuals; forty German
families, or 160 persons; and near 200 elderly widows in great
distress."
Mr and Mrs Montefiore subsequently went to see the foundation stones
of the ancient Temple, generally called the "Western Wall"; also to a
house, from the roof of which they had a fine view of the Mosque of
Omar, which is built on the site of Solomon's Temple. On their return
they called on the Rev. Haham Moses Soozin (the spiritual head of the
Portuguese community), but as he happened to be out, they went to take
coffee with the Rev. Rabbi Mendel, who occupied a like position in the
German community. "He had prepared an excellent room for us," writes
Mr Montefiore, "but our kind host would not allow us to leave him."
During their absence from home the Governor sent to say, that he
expected Mr Montefiore to come and take coffee, and that he regretted
that Mr Montefiore should have gone to the Jews: if he did not like
going to the convent, he would have given him a house in the city. Mr
Montefiore, on hearing the message, said, "I hope I shall ever live
and die in the society of my brethren of Israel."
_Friday, 19th._--This being the Mohammedan Sabbath, the Governor was
at the Mosque, and Mr Montefiore could not call on him. Mrs
Montefiore, accompanied by some ladies and travelling companions, went
to see the tomb of Rachel. Mr Montefiore and his host, Mr Amzalak,
proceeded to a college bearing the name of "Etz-Khayim" (tree of
life), for the cultivation of theological studies. It belongs to the
Portuguese community, and was established 148 years ago by an English
gentleman of the name of "Franco."
Mr Montefiore then went to the ancient burial ground, where he
obtained some terra santa to take home with him. On his return to the
house of his host, he found every member of the family prepared to
welcome the Sabbath. The apartments were beautifully clean and ready
one hour before the time fixed for the commencement of prayers. After
having attended Synagogue, they had an excellent dinner, their host
and hostess being most kind and chatty.
"I was in better spirits," said Mr Montefiore, "than I had been for
months."
_Saturday, October 20th._--They again attended the house of God. Mr
Montefiore took the opportunity to offer a special prayer in grateful
recognition of the great mercy it had pleased heaven to bestow upon
him and his wife, in permitting them to behold the Land of Promise.
The President of the congregation requested Mr Montefiore not to make
any offering of a large amount, otherwise the local authorities might
hear of it, and would still further raise their taxes.
At 12 o'clock they called on the Rev. Haham Moses Soozin, after which
they went to dine with the Rev. Rabbi Mendel. Here Mr Montefiore
expressed his hope that both the German and Portuguese communities
would always remain united in the blessed bonds of harmony. In the
afternoon he paid his respects to the Governor at the Palace. The
Governor offered him coffee and other refreshments, and was extremely
civil and friendly. On Mr Montefiore's expressing a wish to see
Jerusalem again, his Excellency said he would be happy to let him have
his guard. Mr Montefiore sent him a valuable telescope as a souvenir
of the pleasant interviews, while hoping that the Governor might
behave better to the Jews in future. His Excellency, in return, as a
token of his appreciation of Mr Montefiore's visit, affixed the Visa
to his passport in most flattering terms. As these were very peculiar,
I append a translation.
"We declare that to-day arrived at Jerusalem our friend
the English gentleman, Mr Montefiore. He has visited all
the holy places, and all the grandees of the town, as
well as several of lesser note, who have been highly
gratified by making his acquaintance, he being a person
of the greatest merit, and unequalled among the nation
for propriety and amiability of manners; and having
ourselves experienced the highest pleasure in his
society we have written this to testify our sense of his
politeness.
"Given in the last day of Rubic-el-owal, 1243.
"El Hha'jj Hafiz Mohhammad Rashid
Sathashour (or Selhhoor) Hassa,
_Governor of Jerusalem_."
"No city in the world," Mr Montefiore observes in his diary, "can have
a finer situation than this; nor is there a better climate;" and he
concludes his record of his day's proceedings by wishing "Many happy
returns of the day to his dear Judith."
The 20th of October being his wife's birthday, which was generally
signalised, whether at home or abroad, by the distribution of numerous
gifts to the poor and to the charitable institutions, it was, as a
matter of course, thus observed in the Holy City, and in an unusually
liberal spirit.
_Sunday, October 21st._--Their short sojourn in Jerusalem was now
concluded. Mr Montefiore rose at half-past two in the morning, and
joined a number of persons who had been sitting up all night in the
house of his host praying for his safe return, and for the welfare of
all friends and lovers of Zion. Both the Rev. Moses Soozin and the
Rev. Rabbi Mendel, accompanied by more than one hundred of the
principal inhabitants, came to see them off. At 7.38 they took leave
of their kind host and hostess, who had most liberally housed and fed
them without asking for the smallest remuneration, and had loaded them
with cakes, wine, &c., for their journey. After a charming ride of
over five hours between the mountains they came to the first well at
the commencement of the plains, and arrived at the Greek convent of
Ramlah. The road was very stony, rough, and steep, but no precipices;
on the sides of the mountains were olives and fruit trees; the valleys
well cultivated, the plain sandy.
They saw nothing of Aboo-Goosh, who was then the terror of the land,
but they went rather in fear of him.
_Tuesday, 23rd._--They started from Ramlah at 7 A.M., and reached
Jaffa at 10.30, where they stayed a day, and then embarked on board
the _Henry Williams_. The next day, being the anniversary of Mr
Montefiore's birthday, he makes an entry of the event in his diary in
the following words:--
"This day I begin a new era. I fully intend to dedicate much more time
to the welfare of the poor, and to attend Synagogue as regularly as
possible on Monday, Thursday, and Saturday."
_Thursday, October 25th._--They were hailed about 1.30 P.M. by seven
large boats, Turkish men-of-war, full of soldiers, who mistook them
for Greeks. These boats came alongside and continued very close,
appearing to entertain great suspicions of them, as several Greek
vessels had been cruising off the port during the day. At dawn,
however, they were convinced of their mistake. The following day, when
close to the harbour of Alexandria, the travellers saw a Turkish
corvette blown up. It had been used as a training ship for the Pasha's
midshipmen, and it was supposed that two hundred persons perished.
This awful occurrence greatly terrified them. They offered up
additional thanks to heaven for having hitherto held them under its
merciful protection.
At 9.52 A.M. they returned to the harbour of Alexandria, went on
shore, and paid a visit to Mr and Mrs Barker, where they met the
Austrian Consul. They also called on other friends, who were
pleasantly surprised to see them return so speedily, having been
uneasy about them on account of the many Greek vessels which had been
off the harbour for some time past. In the evening they went on board
the _Leonidas_, where they purposed remaining.
_Saturday, October 27th._--Mr and Mrs Barker, Captain Richard of the
_Pelorus_, Messrs Bell and Harris, paid them a visit, bringing the
news that the Pasha had received an account of the British Admiral
having fired on a Turkish ship, obliging her to put back into port. Mr
Barker said that the Pasha had told him on the previous night that he
expected war, that it would be one of religion, and would last fifty
years. "These were the words," Mr Montefiore writes in his diary, "Mr
Salt had uttered to me on the 5th of September. Captain Richards also
thought there would be war. Six vessels came into the harbour, and
every one had been plundered by Greek pirates. A fine Genoese sloop
which they passed on Thursday near Rosetta had been boarded in the
evening and robbed; two other ships were also plundered in sight of
the harbour of Alexandria on the same day, and although witnessed by
the men-of-war, the wind prevented any of them giving chase." "In
truth," Mr Montefiore says, "I have every reason to believe that for
the last three months we are the only persons, sailing without a
convoy, who have escaped."
_Tuesday, October 30th._--They went on shore to be present at the
naming of Mr S. M. Fua's infant son.
The women who generally attend on festive as well as on mournful
occasions, made a horrid noise, which, however, appeared to please the
Egyptian guests very much. Mr Montefiore called on Mr Barker, and the
latter gave him the firman from the Pasha, which was to facilitate his
travelling in Egypt. Mr Barker also begged of him, in the event of Mr
Salt's death, to use his influence to obtain for him the post of
consul general. Mr Salt, it afterwards appeared, must have been
already dead when Mr Barker made this request, but, in all
probability, he did not like to break the sad news to one just coming
from a place of festivity.
"I little expected," says Mr Montefiore, "when I took leave of him on
the 9th of this month, previous to my departure for Jerusalem, that it
would be the last time I should see him. Upon my enquiring then of him
if I could do anything for him in the Holy City, he thanked me, and
said, 'only pray for me.' To the will of God we must all submit."
_Wednesday, October 31st._--The Pasha has this day made a proclamation
in Alexandria, calling upon all true Mussulmans to come forward
immediately for the protection of their religion, and to commence work
at the fortification instantly. Capt. Richards, who paid Mr and Mrs
Montefiore a late visit in the evening, said that he should sail the
next day after the funeral. He had just come from the Pasha, who told
him that the Grand Signor (the Sultan) had given orders to proceed to
sea at all hazards.
_Thursday, November 1st._--Mr Montefiore attended the funeral of
Mr Salt. All the foreign Consuls were present in full uniform,
also Capt. Richards of the _Pelorus_, with his officers, and many
others--merchants, captains, &c. "The procession," he writes, "was
headed by two handsome horses of the Pasha, without riders, then
followed twelve of his janizaris (yenitjeri), twelve English marines,
with arms reversed, and the English naval officers. The coffin was
carried by six British sailors, and the pall was supported by six
consuls, Mr Barker acting as chief mourner, and being followed by
other consuls, merchants, captains, &c. Mr Salt was buried in the
garden attached to his cottage, the Latin Convent having refused him
burial, although his wife is interred there, he being a Protestant."
After the funeral service, the marines fired three rounds. The
_Pelorus_ fired minute guns during the procession. The distance was
nearly half-a-mile, and the dust and heat were so unbearable that Mr
Montefiore says, "I was apprehensive of getting the fever."
_Friday, 2nd._--A Turkish corvette brings news that the allied
admirals off Navarino had, a fortnight before, sent word to Ibrahim
Pasha to send the Egyptian fleet to Alexandria and the Ottoman fleet
to Constantinople, which he had refused to do. The allied fleet then
entered the ports in defiance of all the batteries, destroyed thirteen
of the Pasha's finest ships, and thirty-two of the Sultan's, with a
reported loss of 6000 or 8000 lives on the side of the Turks. The
allied fleet then sailed from Navarino, probably for Constantinople.
All the Franks in Alexandria are in the greatest alarm, dreading the
revenge of the soldiers and Turks.
_Saturday, November 3rd._--Mr Barker sent a note with an extract of
the Admiral's letter to him, confirming yesterday's news. The battle
was fought on the 20th October, the Turks being said to have been the
aggressors. The Turco-Egyptian fleet was annihilated, with a loss of
5000 men. "We are extremely uneasy," Mr Montefiore says, "at the
prospect of not being allowed to sail next Tuesday with the French
convoy, the French captain having refused to give instructions to, or
to take charge of, any but French ships. He said we might sail at the
same time, and if we could keep up with him, he would defend us, but
he could not stop one moment, or shorten sail for us to keep company.
Mr Barker has promised to go on board the _Commodore_ and solicit the
captain, as a personal favour, to direct the schooner to give us
instructions.
_Sunday, November 4th._--Mr Barker has been with the Pasha, who spoke
lightly of the loss of his fleet, and said he would soon have another.
His sentiments continued unchanged with regard to the Franks, and he
pledged himself for their security; he said it was contrary to the
Mooslim religion to destroy Christians, and in the event of the Sultan
permitting such violence, he could not be called a good Mooslim
afterwards. "A poor satisfaction for those he murdered," writes Mr
Montefiore.
_Monday, November 5th._--They went on shore to take leave of all their
friends. Mr Barker gave Mr Montefiore a letter to Lord Dudley,
soliciting the post of consul-general. He advised Capt. Anderson, as a
friend, not to start, and the person who had chartered the captain's
vessel also insisted on her waiting for a proper convoy, as the French
schooner had refused to be delayed at sea for any but French ships. Mr
Barker advised Mr Montefiore to go by one of the French vessels. "They
had the conscience," Mr Montefiore says, "to ask 10,000 francs. Capt.
Anderson, however, has resolved to go, and we shall go with him."