It is the not unfounded boast of Canadians that as the nineteenth

century was the century of growth and development of the United States,

so the twentieth is to be the century of Canada; and the outstanding

feature of Canadian development in {432} the last decade of the

nineteenth century and the early years of the twentieth is the

awakening of her national consciousness. In all her relations with

Great Britain this sense of nationality has been continuously manifest.

In the Colonial Conferences which have been held at intervals in London

since the first Jubilee of Queen Victoria in 1887, Canada has been

acknowledgedly first among the self-governing colonies. In 1897,

partly as a result of the enthusiasm created by enactment of the

preference for Great Britain by the Dominion Parliament, Sir Wilfrid

Laurier was the foremost figure among the colonial statesmen who were

in London for the Diamond Jubilee. Another evidence of loyalty and of

the close connection between Canada and Great Britain in the Jubilee

year was the institution of two cent postage between Great Britain and

Canada. Canada's domestic rate of letter postage from 1868 had been

three cents, a rate which was extended to the United States by a postal

convention, by which the domestic rate of Canada was made applicable to

all letters and papers entering the United States, and that of the

United States to all mail matter for Canada. This rate of three cents

remained in force until January, 1899, when the two cent rate was made

general for Canada, the United States, and Great Britain. In 1907, the

rate for newspapers and periodicals between Great Britain and Canada

was again lowered, and in August, 1908, a one cent rate for letters

within the area of a town or city was adopted by the Canadian Post

Office.

When the South African War broke out in 1899, {433} Canada was the

first of the colonies to come to the help of the mother country; and

the Canadian contingents, the first of which left Canada for South

Africa in October, 1899, rendered excellent service in the Boer War,

especially in such work as scouting and the guerilla fighting in which

the Boers were so adept.

The treaty-making power is still withheld from the Dominion; but since

the Alaskan boundary treaty Great Britain has given more and more

attention to the demands and needs of Canada when treaties have been in

negotiation, and in 1907 Sir Wilfrid Laurier, Mr. W. S. Fielding,

Minister of Finance, and the Hon. Mr. L. P. Brodeur went to Paris to

negotiate directly a commercial treaty with the French Government.

During the years from 1904 to 1907 the British Government gradually

withdrew all the troops and warships which had been stationed in the

Dominion. Canada assumed control of the fortifications of Halifax and

Esquimalt in July, 1905, and the replacing of British by Canadian

soldiers was complete by February, 1906. The naval dockyard at Halifax

was handed over to the Canadian Government authorities in January,

1907; and from end to end of the Dominion Canada is now in complete and

undivided control of her own territory.

[1] The boundaries of the new provinces were finally settled by an Act

of Parliament passed in 1908--an Act which also greatly enlarged the

boundaries of Manitoba, Ontario, and Quebec.

{434}

XXIX.

FRENCH CANADA.

As this story commenced with a survey from the heights of Quebec of the

Dominion of Canada from ocean to ocean, so now may it fitly close with

a review of the condition of the French Canadian people who still

inhabit the valley of the St. Lawrence, and whose history is

contemporaneous with that of the ancient city whose picturesque walls

and buildings recall the designs of French ambition on this continent.

[Illustration: Quebec in 1896.]

Though the fortifications of Louisbourg and Ticonderoga, of Niagara,

Frontenac, and other historic places of the French régime in America

have been razed to the ground, and the French flag is never seen in the

valley of the St. Lawrence, except on some holiday in company with

other national colours, nevertheless on the continent where she once

thought to reign supreme, France has been able to leave a permanent

impress. But this impress is not in the valley of the Mississippi. It

is true that a number of French still live on the banks of the great

river, that many a little village where a French {436} patois is spoken

lies hidden in the sequestered bayous of the South, and that no part of

the old city of New Orleans possesses so much interest for the European

stranger as the French or Creole quarter, with its quaint balconied

houses and luxuriant gardens; but despite all this, it is generally

admitted that the time is not far distant when the French language will

disappear from Louisiana, and few evidences will be found of the days

of the French occupancy of that beautiful State of the Union. On the

banks of the St. Lawrence, however, France has left behind her what

seem likely to be more permanent memorials of her occupation. The

picturesque banks of the St. Lawrence, from the Atlantic to the great

lakes of the West, are the home of a large and rapidly increasing

population whose language and customs are so many memorials of the old

régime whose history has taken up so many pages of this story.

[Illustration: Street in a French Canadian village near Quebec.]

The tourist who travels through the province of Quebec sees on all

sides the evidence that he is passing through a country of French

origin. Here and there in Quebec and Montreal, or in some quiet

village sequestered in a valley or elevated on the Laurentian Hills, he

sees houses and churches which remind him of many a hamlet or town he

has visited in Brittany or Normandy. The language is French from the

Saguenay to the Ottawa, and in some remote communities even now English

is never spoken, and is understood only by the curé or notary. Nor is

the language so impure or degenerated as many persons may naturally

suppose. On {438} the contrary, it is spoken by the educated classes

with a purity not excelled in France itself. The better class of

French Canadians take pride in studying the language of the country of

their ancestors, and are rarely guilty of Anglicisms, though these have

necessarily crept into the common parlance of mixed communities, where

people are forced to speak both French and English. In some rural

districts, isolated from large towns, the people retain the language as

it was spoken two centuries ago--though without the accent of the old

provinces of their origin--and consequently many words and phrases

which are rarely now heard in France, still exist among the peasantry

of French Canada, just as we find in New England many expressions which

are not pure Americanisms but really memorials of old English times.

In French Canada the Anglicisms are such as occur under the natural

condition of things. The native of old France has no words for

"clearing" the forest, making maple sugar, "blazing" a way through the

woods or over the ice and snow of the rivers and lakes, and

consequently the vocabulary of the French Canadian has been

considerably enlarged by local circumstances. In the summer resorts of

the lower St. Lawrence the influence of the English visitors, now very

numerous, is becoming more evident every year, and French habits are

becoming modified and the young folks commence to speak English fairly

well. Away from the St. Lawrence, however, and the path of the

tourists, the French Canadians remain, relatively speaking, untouched

by English customs.

{439}

_Nos institutions, notre langue, et nos lois_ has been the key-note of

French Canadian politics for over a century. At the present time the

records and statutes of the Dominion are always given in the two

languages, and the same is true of all motions put by the Speaker.

Though the reports of the debates appear daily in French, English

prevails in the House of Commons and in the Senate. The French

Canadians are forced to speak the language of the majority, and it is

some evidence of the culture of their leading public men, that many

among them--notably Sir Wilfrid, the eloquent leader of the Liberals,

and first French Canadian premier since 1867--are able to express

themselves in English with a freedom and elegance which no

English-speaking member can pretend to equal in French. In the

legislature of the province of Quebec, French has almost excluded

English, though the records are given in the two languages. In the

supreme court of the Dominion the arguments may be in French, and the

two Quebec judges give their decisions in their own tongue.

The people of French Canada are very devout Roman Catholics. The

numerous churches, colleges, and convents of the country attest the

power and wealth of the Church, and the desire of the French Canadians

to glorify and perpetuate it by every means in their power. The whole

land is practically parcelled out among the saints, as far as the

nomenclature of the settlements and villages is concerned. The

favourite saint appears to be Ste. Anne, whose name appears constantly

on the banks {440} of the St. Lawrence. We have Ste. Anne de la

Pérade, Ste. Anne de la Pocatière, and many others. We all remember

the verse of Moore's boat song:

"Faintly as tolls the evening chime,

Our voices keep tune and our oars keep time,

Soon as the woods on shore look dim,

We 'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn."

This village, situated at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa

rivers, is generally known as Ste. Anne de Bellevue, and still retains

some of the characteristics of a French Canadian village,

notwithstanding its close neighbourhood to the English-speaking

settlements of Ontario. Jesuits, Sulpicians, and Recollets have done

much to mould the thought and control the political destiny of the

people under their spiritual care. The universities, colleges, and

schools are mainly directed by the religious orders. The priests, as

this story has shown, have been very active and conscientious workers

from the earliest days of Canadian history.

Canada, too, has her Notre Dame de Lourdes, to whose shrine the

faithful flock by thousands. Some twenty miles east of Quebec, on the

banks of the St. Lawrence, is the church of Ste. Anne de Beaupré, or,

as the Saint is more particularly known, La bonne Ste. Anne, who has

won fame in Canada for miraculous cures for two centuries at least.

[Illustration: Old church at Bonne Ste. Anne, where miracles were

performed.]

This historic place rests under the shelter of a lofty mountain of the

Laurentides, on a little plateau which has given it the name of the

"beautiful meadow." The village itself consists of a {442} straggling

street of wooden houses, with steep roofs and projecting eaves, nearly

all devoted to the entertainment of the large assemblage that annually

resorts to this Canadian Mecca, probably some sixty thousand in the

course of the summer. Here you will see on the fete of Ste. Anne, and

at other fixed times, a mass of people in every variety of costume,

Micmacs, Hurons, and Iroquois--representatives of the old Indian tribes

of Canada--French Canadians, men, women, and children, from the valleys

of the Ottawa, and the St. Maurice, and all parts of Quebec, as well as

tourists from the United States. The handsome grey stone church--now

dignified as a "basilica"--which has been built of late years, attests

the faith of many thousands who have offered their supplications at the

shrine of La bonne Ste. Anne for centuries.[1] Piles of crutches of

every description, of oak, of ash, of pine, are deposited in every

available corner as so many votive offerings from the countless

cripples that claim to have been cured or relieved. The relic through

which all the wonderful cures are said to be effected, consists of a

part of the finger bone of Ste. Anne, which was sent in 1668 by the

Chapter of Carcassonne to Monseigneur de Laval. The church also

possesses several pictures of merit, one of them by Le Brun, presented

by the Viceroy Tracy in 1666. The situation of many of the French

Canadian {443} villages is exceedingly picturesque, when they nestle in

some quiet nook by the side of a river or bay, or overlook from some

prominent hill a noble panorama of land and water. The spire of the

stone church rises generally from the midst of the houses, and the

priest's residence or presbytère is always the most comfortable in size

and appearance. The houses are for the most part built of wood. The

roofs are frequently curved, with projecting eaves, which afford a sort

of verandah under which the family sit in summer evenings. Some of the

most pretentious structures, especially the inns, have balconies

running directly across the upper story. Many of the barns and

outhouses have thatched roofs, which are never seen in any other part

of Canada. The interiors are very plainly furnished, in many cases

with chairs and tables of native manufacture. A high iron stove is the

most important feature of every dwelling in a country where the cold of

winter is so extreme. Whitewash is freely used inside and outside, and

there is on the whole an air of cleanliness and comfort in the humblest

cottage.

The loom is still kept busy in some villages, and a coarse, warm

homespun is even yet made for everyday use. The _habitant_ also wears

in winter moccasins and a _tuque bleue_, or woollen cap, in which he is

always depicted by the painter of Canadian scenes. But with the growth

of towns and the development of the railway system a steady change is

occurring year by year in the dress of the inhabitants, and it is only

in the very remote settlements that we can find the homely stuffs of

former times. Old dresses {444} and old customs are gradually

disappearing with the old-fashioned caleche, in which tourists once

struggled to admire French Canadian scenes. As a rule, however, the

people live very economically, and extravagance in dress is rather the

exception. On gala days the young wear many ribbons and colours,

though arranged with little of the taste characteristic of the French

people. Both old and young are very sociable in their habits, and love

music and dancing. The violin is constantly played in the smallest

village, and the young people dance old-fashioned cotillons or _danses

rondos_. The priests, however, do not encourage reckless gaieties or

extravagance in dress. Now and then the bishop issues a Pastoral in

which the waltz and other fast dances, and certain fashionable modes of

dress, are expressly forbidden, and though his mandates are no doubt

soon forgotten in the cities and towns, they are, on the whole,

religiously observed in the rural communities. The feasts of the

Church are kept with great zeal,--especially the _fêtes

d'obligation_--and consequently the French Canadian has holidays

without number.

[Illustration: A Canadian calèche of old times.]

No class of the population of Canada is more orderly or less disposed

to crime than the French Canadians. The standard of the morality of

the people is high. Early marriages have been always encouraged by the

priests, and large families--fifteen children being very common--are

the rule in the villages. The _habitant_ is naturally litigious, and

the amount in dispute is, in his opinion, trifling compared with the

honour of having a case in court, {446} which demands the attendance of

the whole village. The temperate habits of the French Canadian make

them necessarily valuable employés in mills and manufactories of all

kinds. Indeed, they prefer this life to that of the farm, and until

very recently there was a steady exodus of this class to the

manufacturing towns of Lowell, Holyoke, and other places in New

England. A large proportion of the men employed in the lumbering

industry of Canada is drawn from the province of Quebec. As their

forefathers were _coureurs de bois_ in the days of the French régime,

and hunted the beaver in the wilderness, even venturing into the

illimitable Northwest region, so in these modern times the French

Canadians seek the vast pine woods which, despite axe and fire, still

stretch over a large area watered by the Ottawa and other rivers.

In commercial and financial enterprise, the French Canadians cannot

compete with their fellow-citizens of British origin, who practically

control the great commercial undertakings and banking institutions of

Lower Canada, especially in Montreal. Generally speaking, the French

Canadians cannot compare with the English population as agriculturists,

Their province is less favoured than Ontario with respect to climate

and soil. The French system of sub-dividing farms among the members of

a family has tended to cut up the land unprofitably, and it is a

curious sight to see the number of extremely narrow lots throughout the

French settlements. It must be admitted, too, that the French

population has less enterprise, and less disposition to adopt new {447}

machines and improved agricultural implements, than the people of the

other provinces.

As a rule, the _habitant_ lives contentedly on very little. Give him a

pipe of native tobacco, a chance of discussing politics, a gossip with

his fellows at the church door after service, a visit now and then to

the county town, and he will be happy. It does not take much to amuse

him, while he is quite satisfied that his spiritual safety is secured

as long as he is within sound of the church bells, goes regularly to

confession, and observes all the _fêtes d'obligation_. If he or one of

his family can only get a little office in the municipality, or in the

"government," then his happiness is nearly perfect. Indeed, if he were

not a bureaucrat, he would very much belie his French origin. Take him

all in all, however, Jean-Baptiste, as he is familiarly known, from the

patron saint of French Canada, has many excellent qualities. He is

naturally polite, steady in his habits, and conservative in his

instincts. He is excitable and troublesome only when his political

passions are thoroughly aroused, or his religious principles are at

stake; and then it is impossible to say to what extreme he will go.

Like the people from whom he is descended--many of whose

characteristics he has never lost since his residence of centuries on

the American continent--he is greatly influenced by matters of feeling

and sentiment, and the skilful master of rhetoric has it constantly in

his power to sway him to an extent which is not possible in the case of

the stronger, less impulsive Saxon race, with whom reason and argument

prevail to a large degree.

{448}

In the present, as in the past, the Church makes every effort to

supervise with a zealous care the mental food that is offered for the

nourishment of the people in the rural districts, where it exercises

the greatest influence. Agnosticism is a word practically unknown in

the vocabulary of the French Canadian _habitant_, who is quite ready to

adhere without wavering to the old belief which his forefathers

professed. Whilst the French Canadians doubtless lose little by

refusing to listen to the teachings which would destroy all

old-established and venerable institutions, and lead them into an

unknown country of useless speculation, they do not, as a rule, allow

their minds sufficient scope and expansion. It is true that a new

generation is growing up with a larger desire for philosophic inquiry

and speculation. But whilst the priests continue to control the public

school system of the province, they have a powerful means of

maintaining the current of popular thought in that conservative and too

often narrow groove, in which they have always laboured to keep it

since the days of Laval.

[Illustration: Louis Fréchette.]

It is obvious, however, to a careful observer of the recent history of

the country that there is more independence of thought and action

showing itself in the large centres of population--even in the rural

communities--and that the people are beginning to understand that they

should be left free to exercise their political rights without direct

or undue interference on the part of their spiritual advisers. English

ideas in this respect seem certainly to be gaining ground.

{450}

In the days of the French régime there was necessarily no native

literature, and little general culture except in small select circles

at Quebec and Montreal. But during the past half century, with the

increase of wealth, the dissemination of liberal education, and the

development of self-government, the French Canadians have created for

themselves a literature which shows that they inherit much of the

spirituality and brilliancy of their race. Their histories and poems

have attracted much attention in literary circles in France, and one

poet, Mr. Louis Fréchette, has won the highest prize of the French

Institute for the best poem of the year. In history we have the names

of Garneau, Ferland, Sulte, Tassé, Casgrain; in poetry, Crémazie,

Chauveau, Fréchette, Poisson, Lemay; in science, Hamel, Laflamme, De

Foville; besides many others famed as savants and littérateurs. In art

some progress has been made, and several young men go to the Paris

schools from time to time. The only sculptor of original merit that

Canada has yet produced is Hébert, a French Canadian, whose monuments

of eminent Canadians stand in several public places. Science has not

made so much progress as belles-lettres and history, though Laval

University--the principal educational institution of the highest

class--has among its professors men who show some creditable work in

mathematics, geology, and physics. In romance, however, very little

has been done.

The French Canadians have a natural love for poetry and music. Indeed

it is a French Canadian by birth and early education--Madame

Albani--who {451} not long ago won a high distinction on the operatic

stage. No writer of this nationality, however, has yet produced an

opera or a drama which has won fame for its author. The priesthood,

indeed, has been a persistent enemy of the theatre, which consequently

has never attained a successful foothold in French Canada. Sacred

music, so essential a feature of a Roman Catholic service, has been

always cultivated with success.

The _chansons populaires_, which have been so long in vogue among the

people of all classes in the province of Quebec are the same in spirit,

and very frequently in words, as those which their ancestors brought

over with them from Brittany, Normandy, Saintonge, and Franche-Comté.

Some have been adapted to Canadian scenery and associations, but most

of them are essentially European in allusion and spirit. The Canadian

lumberer among the pines of the Ottawa and its tributaries, the _Métis_

or half-breeds of what was once the great Lone Land, still sing

snatches of the songs which the _coureurs de bois_, who followed Duluth

and other French explorers, were wont to sing as they paddled over the

rivers of the West or camped beneath the pines and the maples of the

great forests. It is impossible to set the words of all of them to the

music of the drawing-room, where they seem tame and meaningless; but

when they mingle with "the solemn sough of the forest," or with the

roar of rushing waters, the air seems imbued with the spirit of the

surroundings. It has been well observed by M. Gagnon, a French

Canadian, that "many of them have no beauty {452} except on the lips of

the peasantry." There is "something sad and soft in the voices that

imparts a peculiar charm to these monotonous airs, in which their whole

existence seems to be reflected."

I give below the most popular and poetical of all the Canadian ballads,

and at the same time a translation by a Canadian writer:[2]

À LA CLAIRE FONTAINE. TRANSLATION.

À la claire fontaine Down to the crystal streamlet

M'en allant promener, I strayed at close of day;

J'ai trouvé l'eau si belle Into its limpid waters

Que je m'y suis baigne. I plunged without delay.

Lui ya longtemps que je t'aime, I 've loved thee long and dearly,

Jamais je ne t'oublierai. I 'll love thee, sweet, for aye.

J'ai trouvé l'eau si belle Into its limpid waters

Que je m'y suis baigné, I plunged without delay;

Et c'est au pied d'un chêne Then 'mid the flowers springing

Que je m'suis reposé. At the oak-tree's foot I lay.

Et c'est au pied d'un chêne Then 'mid the flowers springing

Que je m'suis reposé; At the oak-tree's foot I lay;

Sur la plus haute branche Sweet the nightingale was singing

Le rossignol chantait. High on the topmost spray.

Sur la plus haute branche Sweet the nightingale was singing

Le rossignol chantait; High on the topmost spray;

Chante, rossignol, chante, Sweet bird! keep ever singing

Toi qui as le coeur gai. Thy song with heart so gay.

Chante, rossignol, chante, Sweet bird! keep ever singing

Toi qui as le coeur gai; Thy song with heart so gay;

Tu as le coeur à rire, Thy heart was made for laughter,

Moi je l'ai-t à pleurer. My heart 's in tears to-day.

{453}

Tu as le coeur à rire, Thy heart was made for laughter,

Moi je l'ai-t à pleurer; My heart 's in tears to-day;

J'ai perdu ma maîtresse Tears for a fickle mistress,

Sans pouvoir la trouver. Flown from its love away.

J'ai perdu ma maîtresse Tears for a fickle mistress,

Sans pouvoir la trouver; Flown from its love away,

Pour un bouquet de roses All for these faded roses

Que je lui refusai; Which I refused in play.

Pour un bouquet de roses All for these faded roses

Que je lui refusai; Which I refused in play--

Je voudrais que la rose Would that each rose were growing

Fut encore au rosier. Still on the rose-tree gay.

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