CHAPTER III.

Method of cultivating and using millet. — Character of the hassanes

or warriors. — The balanites ægyptiaca, its fruit, method of

extracting oil from it. — Quarrel excited by a woman. — Manner of

protecting oneself from cold in the tents. — Method of collecting

gum. — Marriages of the marabouts, and of the hassanes. —

Inheritance of property. — Method of tanning leather. — Dress of

the Moors.

The millet is reaped at the end of May; at that time the marabouts

receive it from their slaves and the hassanes from their zenagues,

or tributaries. This millet supports them till the month of July when

the rainy season commences; they then withdraw from the banks of the

river, and live entirely on milk. If any millet remains, it is laid

by till the next dry season.

In the month of November, when the waters begin to subside, the Moors

send their slaves to sow the ground which has been flooded by the

rains, or by the overflowing of the river. It is at this season also,

that the zenagues come down to the banks of the river to cultivate

millet. The slaves of the same camp lodge together, and cultivate the

same district; each field is marked out, and the produce carefully

kept in a separate place. Their method of cultivation is exceedingly

bad, but it gives them little trouble. With a thick stick they make

holes in the ground six inches deep, and into these holes they drop

three or four grains of millet, covering them with sand or light

mould. They never prepare the ground in any way, and only weed it

after the millet has come up. To save themselves trouble they select

a poor soil, because a richer would require more weeding, and they

are naturally lazy. When the seed is sown, they wait quietly till

the millet makes it appearance, then thin it a little, and weed round

the roots to give it air; many do no more than this, and suffer the

grass to grow up between the roots.

When the ear begins to show, they stay in the field to drive away

the birds, which would devour the grain before it is ripe; and this

occupation does not allow them a moment’s rest: they walk about

the field incessantly, shouting and throwing stones, and at night

they lie down among it to protect it from gazelles, porcupines,

and wild boars, which would make great havoc.

When the millet is ripe, they cut it, and thrash it with sticks. The

grain is put into sacks, and carried to the camp, and those who have

reaped more than they are likely to want carry the surplus to the

markets, and sell it to the dealers.

On the 4th of November, the son-in-law of Mohammed-Sidy-Moctar came

to the camp. As he did not lodge with his father-in-law, I conclude

that they were not on good terms. I went to pay him a visit; he was

very polite, and asked me many questions about the resolution which I

had taken, congratulating me upon it, and telling me that he was very

much afraid the christians would detain my goods, or, if I returned

to fetch them, would detain me by force. I endeavoured to correct a

mistake which proceeded from his religion, and assured him that the

christians would leave me at perfect liberty to do what I pleased;

and that as to my goods they would be as safe in their hands as in

my own. “The whites,” said I, “rob nobody; their laws punish

such crimes with severity, and they would do justice to the poorest

Musulman exactly as they would to a christian of the first importance;

both are equal in the eye of the law.” I seized this opportunity to

ask him, why the Musulmans pursued a conduct with regard to christians,

so contrary to religion; and why they ill-treated and made slaves of

those who ventured amongst them for commercial objects, without having

committed any offence. “I cannot believe,” added I, “that a good

and merciful God approves of such conduct. If you want to convert the

christians, it can only be effected by intercourse with them, and by

excelling them in justice and kindness—not by ill-treating them. For

my part, I am a Musulman, but I shall never approve of doing ill to

those who have done us no harm.” The marabout allowed the truth of

what I advanced; but he said it was unbearable, that when a Musulman

spoke to a christian about the prophet, the christian should laugh in

his face; that none but an infidel would do so; and that it would be

a good action to kill him, that they might both go to heaven. I wished

to enter into some particulars respecting christianity; but I durst not

let my zeal run away with me, and I contented myself with telling him

that the christians adored the same God as the Musulmans. “Yes,”

said he, “I know that; but they never pray; they drink wine and

spirituous liquors, which is displeasing to God; and the religion of

Mahomet, which alone is agreeable to him, condemns to everlasting fire

those who do not adopt it.” He asked me afterwards if I meant to make

a journey to Mecca; to which I replied that it was the duty of every

good Musulman, and that I hoped to discharge it. He took me by the

hand, and answered: “That is right, Abdallahi, you love God and the

prophet.” Boubou-Fanfale served as interpreter in this conversation.

The same day, a young Moor invited me to accompany him into the

woods, where I was to meet a number of other young men from the same

camp. When we came to a very thick part of the wood, he sat down,

and a moment after a slave brought a sheep; he then picked up wood,

and lighted a fire, after having made a hole in the ground, in the

form of an oven; a marabout then killed the sheep,[24] and the slave

skinned it. The marabouts took the intestines, which they emptied

by squeezing them between their fingers; and then, without washing,

they made puddings with them; these were put over the fire, and eaten

when they were half cooked. When there was a large quantity of embers,

they were removed from the hole, and the sheep put in their place;

embers and ashes were then spread over it, and fire kindled above. In

half an hour’s time, my companions considered that the sheep was

sufficiently dressed; they took it out of the hole, gave the head

and a scrap of the neck to the slave, and divided the rest into as

many portions as there were persons present; lots were cast after

this to determine to whom each share should belong. Feasts of this

kind are much in vogue with the Moors; five or six young men join,

and furnish each a sheep in their turn, which they eat in the woods,

that they may not be beset as they would be in the camp. When they have

had as much as they can eat, they carry the rest to their relations;

but there is never much left for this purpose, and sometimes none at

all. Of the skins of their sheep and goats they make leather bags,

and use them to keep and carry water in; for that purpose, they

slit the skin of the animal from the knee nearly to the shoulders,

loosen it with their hands and turn it back, and then take out the

flesh through the opening.

On the 6th of November, the camp broke up; we then marched three

miles W. ¼ N.W. along the bank of a stream, where pasturage was

abundant. Part of the camp remained behind, and rejoined us on the

8th. I was informed by a marabout that Mohammed-Sidy-Moctar was then

on the road to his camp.

The ground in the vicinity of el-Hadjar is rich, and covered with

fine vegetation. The periodical inundation of the river deposits a

slime which improves the soil, and it is also enriched by the numerous

flocks and herds which are attracted by the pasturage. This virgin soil

wants nothing but the hand of the husbandman to produce in abundance

all the plants which it might be desirable to cultivate; but it would

be in vain to suggest such a thing to the Moors, and the distance

from the coast will never admit of a European establishment. Half a

league from the banks of this stream, the nature of the soil changes,

and it becomes ferruginous; vegetation is to be found only on little

patches of very hard yellow sand, where the rain brings forth a few

species of grass.

On the 9th of November, some Moors came and asked me to shew them the

proper way of taking sweet basil; Mohammed’s eldest son advised

me not to tell them till they had given me a new coussabe; but I

replied that if I was fortunate enough to have it in my power to

render any service to the Moors, I would do it for the love of God,

and not to gain a reward. I mention the fact to shew how little

idea those people have of generosity. I have already said that the

sons of my marabout gave me very few lessons; I did not, however,

neglect any opportunity of gaining instruction; I applied to the other

marabouts, who taught me some verses of the Koran, and I also learnt

from them the Arabic letters. The news of their father’s speedy

arrival rendered my hosts more attentive; they now furnished me with

a regular scholar’s board, and I was set morning and night to sing

the praises of God and his prophet, by the light of a small fire.

On the 10th, as I was boiling a little milk for my breakfast, two

hassanes, who had lately arrived at the camp, came to me; one of them

threw a dirty rag into my milk, and then began scolding his companion,

as if _he_ had done it, and pretending to take my part. This anecdote

will give a correct idea of this class. Both these men were still with

the camp on the 12th, when we were preparing to remove. They had found

a poor wretch, a _haddad_, or blacksmith, and wanted to force him to

give them a coussabe: the poor fellow had not one for himself, for he

was naked; they struck him, threatened him, and at last put a cord

round his neck, and tied him to a camel to take him off with them;

but, at this moment, a marabout interfered, and obtained his release

after many entreaties. When I inquired the cause of this cruelty, I

was told that the hassanes always treat the zenagues, or tributaries,

in this way when they want to extort something from them; they make

them run to keep up with their camels, beating them unmercifully,

and do not let them go till they get what they want.

The artizans are always zenagues; they are generally despised by

the other classes, and perpetually exposed to the rapacity of the

hassanes. When they have earned any thing by their labour, they

give it to a marabout to keep, for it would not be safe in their

own hands. They are either shoemakers or smiths; the shoemakers do

all kinds of work in leather, make shoes, portfolios, saddles, etc.;

the smiths make locks, fetters, poniards, and other iron articles;

they are also goldsmiths, and are extremely ingenious; though they

have few tools, they produce astonishing pieces of workmanship. Those

who employ them commonly supply them with metal, and pay them with

millet, milk, or stuff for clothing.

It was eight o’clock when the camp broke up. We travelled six miles

N.N.W., on a soil covered with iron-stone, and three miles over

yellow sand. The tree named _balanitis ægyptiaca_, grows here in

great abundance; the Senegal negroes call it soump. The Moors collect

the fruit of this tree, from the kernel of which they make a kind

of sangleh, which they relish much, because it is very greasy. This

kernel contains much oil, and the inhabitants of Senegal extract it for

their use when they are short of olive oil. I tasted it at St. Louis,

and found it tolerably good, but I think it might be better if more

care were taken in gathering the fruit, and expressing the oil. If

government were to afford encouragement to this culture, this fruit

might become an important article of commerce. The tree grows every

where near the Senegal. To extract the oil, the inhabitants pound

the kernels in a mortar; when reduced to a paste, they make a hole

in the middle, into which the oil flows speedily and abundantly;

they lade it out by degrees, until no more runs; they then squeeze

the paste in their hands, and it yields a little more oil, but not

so clear as the first. A quart of kernels produces about a bottle

of oil; hence it might be inferred, how much might be obtained by a

better process. The negroes eat the pulp of the fruit, either raw or

baked in the ashes. The trunk of the balanite furnishes yellow wood,

easily worked, and firm; the Laobés[25] make mortars, pestles,

baganes (large wooden bowls) and many other things of it.

On the 24th of November I was witness to a scene which diverted

me extremely. I saw a number of women outside the camp, who were

uttering shrill cries, and some children who were throwing stones;

I approached to see what was the matter, and found a woman in tears,

muffled up in her garments, and supported by her friends. While I was

inquiring the cause of her affliction, I espied some men and a crowd

of women at a distance, quarrelling about the loads of two oxen;

three slaves with leather straps attacked the women when they came

near the oxen, and the women in their turn laid on with sticks, and

pitched off the loads. While the men were engaged in replacing them

the women snatched what they could reach, and carried it off towards

the camp in triumph, singing as they went. This contest lasted more

than two hours, and the baggage was perceptibly diminished, when

the wife and daughter of the great marabout interfered; they seated

themselves on the remainder of the baggage, and the two parties began

to listen to one another. The distressed female was born in this

camp, and had married a marabout of a distant camp. Wishing to see

her relations again, she had persuaded her husband to accompany her;

some days after their arrival the husband was desirous of returning,

he put off his journey however, at the request of his wife. At last,

his business required it, and he was determined to return; but his

wife who was bent upon keeping him, got up a quarrel, struck him,

and collected all the women of the camp round him. The women flew

at the husband like furies; the husband was supported by some of his

friends; they tried to load the oxen again with the goods which the

women had thrown on the ground; the women pushed and pulled, and sent

them rolling with the bales; and the oxen were four times loaded and

unloaded in my presence. In vain did three strong negroes, slaves of

the husband, lash the women by the order of their master; they could

not keep off the crowd, but were beaten themselves; and the boys, who

are always fond of mischief, threw showers of stones upon them and the

marabouts. At last, the wife and daughter of the grand marabout having

taken possession of the baggage, a capitulation ensued; the women were

desired to disperse; and the marabouts promised to take the goods back

to the camp till the morrow. When every body was gone, they loaded

the oxen again and set off, taking with them about a fourth of their

goods; and in the evening the lady departed to rejoin her husband.

The Moorish women have great influence over their husbands, which

they frequently make a bad use of. Polygamy is not practised by the

inhabitants of this part of Africa, and their wives would not permit

them even to have concubines. The king himself has, like his subjects,

only one wife.

On the 25th of November, an hassane stole some oxen belonging to a

marabout of our camp, which caused a great bustle; every body was

on foot all the evening, and two friends of the injured man went to

the hassane’s camp to demand the oxen. I was told that if the king

had been there the thief would have been severely punished. The same

evening Mohammed-Sidy-Moctar arrived; I expected to see his family

very joyful upon the occasion, and was surprised that nobody went out

to meet him. He entered his tent, and saluted them all; his greeting

was very coldly returned; his daughter alone rose, and laid her hands

respectfully upon his head, without any demonstration of affection. I

have never seen the Moors embrace each other; even a lover does not

kiss his mistress; he lays his hand on her lips, and then puts it to

his own, no doubt to convey to it the kiss which she has impressed on

it. The next day the marabouts who went to demand the oxen returned;

but without success.

On the 28th, the grand marabout went himself to claim them, and they

were given up; he had much difficulty in prevailing, and did not

return till the 6th of December; the oxen arrived shortly after him.

The Moorish laws are very severe against theft, but they are hardly

ever enforced. If the thief is taken in the king’s presence,

the king may order him fifty or sixty stripes on the back, or have

his ears cut off, without any form of trial. Capital punishment is

sometimes inflicted upon the tributaries, but never upon hassanes or

marabouts. By the law of Mahomet, a thief is to have his hand cut

off; but every body has an interest in mitigating this clause, for

the Moors would all be one-handed if it were rigorously enforced. The

law does not apply to those who pillage christians; on the contrary,

that is considered a meritorious action, and they lose no opportunity

of plundering them.

On the 10th of December, the camp moved twelve miles W. ¼ N.W. to

a spot three miles east of lake Aleg, whither a party went to fetch

water for the use of the camp. The women are charged with this labour;

they fill the skins and load them upon asses; at nine they left the

camp, and they were back again in an hour.

It was now beginning to be cold; the north wind blew violently, and

rendered the nights very unpleasant. At this season the Moors set

up the _varroi_, a large covering made of tanned sheep-skins sewed

firmly together; they stretch it over stakes in their tents, with the

sides hanging down, so as to keep off the wind during the night. They

have also woollen counterpanes, or cloaks, which they buy from the

Koont traders, who bring them from Wâlet, or other great towns in

the interior. They wrap themselves up in these counterpanes at night,

and also in the day, when the cold is severe. The slaves sleep also

under the varroi, upon the ground, with no other covering than the

sheep-skin which serves for their clothing.

On the 11th, I saw an ox killed: the four feet were first tied by

slaves, who knocked the beast down, and thrust a stake through the

skin of his throat to prevent him from moving his head; a marabout

stuck him, and the slaves took off the skin. The flesh was cut into

thin slices and hung upon cross-bars, fastened to poles, to dry. A

fence of briars was formed round it to keep off the dogs, and it was

covered with mats to preserve it from being spoiled by the sun. A

slave slept by it till it was dry, and kept up a small fire at night

to counteract the effect of damp. The meat thus dried was put in

leather sacks to preserve it. When it is well dried, it will keep a

long time, and has no disagreeable taste. The Moors generally eat it

without further preparation or cooking. The slaves who flay the ox

receive the neck and some bones; the head is given to the haddads,

and the other bones are distributed as presents.

The Moors never invite their friends, not even their relations, to eat

meat; what they have they keep for themselves. Sometimes a number of

them join together, each furnishing his ox, which they kill in turn,

and eat the flesh in common, as I have before said respecting the

young men and the sheep. This is a sort of carnival amongst them,

and they give it a name which signifies “a party to eat flesh.”

On the 12th of December I went to lake Aleg, it was surrounded by

camps of marabouts, for it is the rendezvous of all those who travel

on the banks of the river. The environs are broken by little hillocks

covered with iron-stone. The _voscia integrifolia_ grows abundantly

in the plain; the Moors collect the fruit, which they call _iré_,

and eat it cooked with meat. The banks of the lake are covered with

_mimosa_, _zizyphus lotus_, and _nauclea africana_. Its breadth

does not exceed three miles; it stretches from south to north, and

terminates in a north-westerly direction; the circumference may be

about twelve leagues. It overflows periodically, like the river,

and inundates the contiguous lands for a mile round. These lands are

particularly productive, and are cultivated by the Moors when the

waters have subsided. The lake is fed by the el-Hadjar, and by an

immense number of ravines, which collect water during the rainy season.

The season for collecting gum had now arrived, and every body was

employed in making preparations; I intimated a wish to accompany those

who were going out for that purpose, but I could not get leave. I

attribute this refusal to distrust; for the Moors conceive that the

Europeans wish to take possession of their country as being the finest

in the world. Not being allowed to gratify my wish of observing these

operations, I tried at all events to obtain accurate information on

the subject.

On the 13th the slaves destined to this labour set off under the

direction of several marabouts; it was not till some days afterwards

that I learnt from my host’s wife the particulars which I am now

about to relate. It has been believed, but without foundation, that

there were forests of gum-bearing trees in the desert; travellers have

fallen into this error from the inaccurate accounts of the Moors,

who, to do honour to their country, always profess that every thing

is to be found there in the greatest abundance. The acacia which

furnishes gum grows singly in all the elevated parts of the desert,

never on argillaceous or alluvial soil, but on dry sandy ground; it

is very rare on the banks of the Senegal. The tree is not the same

with the _mimosa gummifera_ of the botanists, which I had seen in

our settlements; its leaves are regularly pinnated; the folioles are

broader, thicker, and of a darker green; in its shape and appearance

it more nearly resembles the acacia cultivated in France.

The wells which have been dug in the interior, where the operation

of collecting the gum is carried on, have given their name to

the neighbourhood, and such has been the origin of the names that

have been given to the fictitious gum forests. Near these wells the

marabouts take up their abode, and the slaves cut straw to make huts;

a single marabout superintends the slaves of his whole family, or of

several of his friends; and he assembles them all, sometimes to the

number of forty or fifty under the same hut. Every marabout sends as

many slaves as he can spare, and they are sometimes joined by a few

wretched zenagues. The superintending marabout takes with him two cows,

and carries a bag of millet for his food.

When a zenague joins the slaves, he applies to the marabout, who gives

him a cow and what else is needful, and at the end of the gum-harvest

he receives half of what he has collected. The zenagues are only

permitted to gather upon this condition; if they were to attempt it

on their own account they would be plundered by the hassanes. Every

detachment is provided with a pulley and cord to be used at the wells,

and a leather bag which is to serve as a bucket for drawing up water. I

have been assured that those wells are very deep, and the ropes which

I saw were thirty or forty fathoms long. The pulley is fixed to two

stakes driven into the ground on each side of the well, and meeting at

their extremities; the end of the rope passed through it, is tied round

the neck of an ass, which, driven by a marabout, draws up the bucket;

another marabout receives it, and pours the water into a wooden trough

for the use of the cattle. The superintending marabouts are charged

with this duty. The slaves fill their leather bags with water every

morning, and, furnished with a great forked stick, they traverse the

fields in search of gum; as the gum-bearing trees are all thorny, this

stick is used to knock off from the higher branches the lumps of gum

which could not be reached by the hand. As they pick it up they put it

in their leather bags; and thus they spend the day, without any thing

but a little water to refresh them. At sun-set they return to the hut;

a woman prepares sangleh for the marabout’s supper; another milks

the cows; and each drinks the milk of that which is allotted for his

subsistance. When the gum is plentiful each person employed collects

about six pounds a day, which proves that the trees are detached;

for if they grew in forests, as some say, and no time were lost in

running from one to another, the quantity of gum collected must be

much greater.

The superintending marabout receives a proportion of the gum;

the slaves work five days for their master, and the sixth for

the superintendent, who thus comes in for the greater part of the

produce. The Moors have neither vessels nor bags to carry home their

gum; when they have collected a certain quantity, the slaves make

holes in the ground and there deposit what they have collected. When

these holes are full they are covered with ox-hides, straw, and earth;

care is also taken to give the surface of the soil above the same

appearance as it has round about; for, if discovered, the treasure

would be carried off by other Moors; when they remove from the spot,

they make a mark on some tree or stone near the hole, and the gum

is left there till it is taken to the markets to be sold: it is then

put into large leather bags; and carried by oxen and camels.

There is no private property in gum-trees; every marabout has a right

to send as many slaves as he likes, without asking leave, or paying

any additional contribution. It would assuredly be a great source of

wealth to them, if they consulted their own interest better, but they

are so indolent that they not only do not try to augment the number

of their slaves, but do not even send as many of those they possess

as they might do. Their wants however are limited; a single garment

suffices them.

On the 14th a young man belonging to a neighbouring tent, having a

mistress in the camp of the Oulad Biery tribe, invited me to accompany

him, with some other friends, to pay her a visit; this camp was a mile

to the north of ours. I accepted the invitation, for I sought every

opportunity of obtaining an insight into the character and customs

of these people. I was politely received; all the women collected

around me, talked to me a great deal, and asked me many questions;

our conversation was pretty lively; for they asked me amongst other

things if I intended to marry, and on my replying in the affirmative,

they desired me to chuse one of them, and pressed me to say which

I liked best. I told them that the choice was too embarrassing, and

that I would rather marry them all, for I thought them all equally

beautiful and agreeable. This joke amused them; they were very much

pleased with it and even thanked me. Perceiving that the marabout

lover was absent, I inquired what had become of him, but could get no

information except that he would come again towards night. Several

of the women were employed in adorning the betrothed lady, and they

had just put on the _henna_ to render her more lovely in the eyes of

her admirer. This henna, _lawsonia inermis_, is found in great plenty

in the interior; the Moorish women bruise the leaves, and obtain from

them a pale red tincture which they use to brighten their charms. The

leaves being bruised and reduced to pulp, this pulp is applied to

the various parts of the body which they are desirous of staining;

it is kept covered, to preserve it from the action of the air,

and moistened at intervals with water in which camel dung has been

steeped. The colour is five or six hours in fixing; after that time the

pulp is removed and the flesh to which it has been applied is stained a

beautiful red. Henna is applied to the nails, the feet, and the hands;

upon which last they make all sorts of patterns; I have never seen

it applied to the face. The colour remains a month without changing,

and does not disappear entirely in less than twelve months. It is not

only an ornament with the Moors, but a religious ceremony for women

who are about to be married. When a woman has used henna she takes

care to show it, and to attract attention to her hands and feet,

that she may be complimented; women are coquettes all the world over!

The toilet of the Moorish ladies is not confined to the use of henna;

the lady in question had her hair dressed; her tresses, which hung

on her shoulders, were smeared with a sort of ointment, made of

butter, pounded cloves, and water; and adorned with amber, coral,

and bits of glass of different colours. I had never seen a Mooress

so bedizened before.

In the evening I went to look for the lover; a young Moor accompanied

me. We met him close to the camp, and I concluded that he was going to

his intended; but he told me, on the contrary, that he did not chuse to

pass by her tent, and that he was on the way to one of his friends. I

expressed my surprise, and he told me that he wished to avoid the

lady’s relations; on this subject we had a long conversation,

the substance of which is as follows.

When a young man becomes attached to a girl, and wishes to marry her,

he seeks her in secret, and obtains her consent. That point secured,

he commissions a marabout to treat with the girl’s relations, as to

the presents which he is to make, the number of oxen he is to give to

the bride’s mother &c. This being arranged, the marabout who has

undertaken the negotiation informs the other marabouts, when they

are assembled to prayer, the lover himself being present. From this

moment the lover is not to see the father and mother of his future

bride; he takes the greatest care to avoid them, and if by chance they

perceive him they cover their faces, as if all the ties of friendship

were broken. I tried in vain to discover the origin of this whimsical

custom; the only answer I could obtain was, “It is our way.”

I did not like to suppose that a connexion of this kind could destroy

the esteem and affection which had previously subsisted between the

two families, and I took some pains to ascertain whether it was so or

not; I often talked to a father of his son-in-law and _vice versâ_;

and I found that the indifference was only feigned, that they felt

the same affection as before, and in conversation extolled one

another’s merit.

The custom extends beyond the relations; if the lover is of a different

camp, he avoids all the inhabitants of the lady’s camp, except a

few intimate friends whom he is permitted to visit. A little tent is

generally set up for him, under which he remains all day, and if he

is obliged to come out, or to cross the camp, he covers his face. He

is not allowed to see his intended during the day, but, when every

body is at rest, he creeps into her tent and remains with her till

day-break. This indiscreet method of courtship lasts for a month or

two; after which the marriage is solemnized by a marabout. The mother

of the bride gives a feast, and kills an ox if she can afford it;

providing abundance of couscous and sangleh for the guests, who are

sure to be numerous. The women collect round the bride, singing her

praises and amusing themselves the whole of the day; I have seen some

of them dance.

The hassanes are not obliged to conceal themselves from their new

relations; they meet as usual both before and after the marriage: their

feasts are also more gay and brilliant, and they admit the guéhués to

them. Whatever may be the difference between the ceremonial however,

the woman and her husband are in all cases subjected to the parents

of the latter.

When the marriage is celebrated, the husband may take away his wife

forthwith if he has a camel; in that case the mother-in-law supplies

the equipage for the beast, the cradle, and the carpet which lines it;

she adorns the daughter with her finest ornaments, gives her a mat

to lie upon, and a sheep-skin for a coverlid; the husband leads the

camel, and keeps his face covered till he is out of the camp. If he

has no camel, he leaves his wife in the camp till he can procure one,

for it would be a terrible disgrace if the woman were brought home to

her husband’s camp on a bullock. Sometimes he settles in his wife’s

camp, sends for his flocks and herds, and ceases to hide himself.

It often happens that the husband and wife cannot agree, or are

desirous of a separation; one of them then quarrels with the other,

and they part without having recourse to the marabouts who brought

them together. The one who wishes for a divorce makes a present to

the other. If there are children, the boys go with the father, and

the girls remain with their mother; if she is pregnant at the time,

and brings forth a boy, it is sent to the father who has it nursed

by a zenague.

When the husband dies, his wife goes into mourning and wears it four

months and ten days; during this time, she puts on her worst apparel,

receiving nobody into her tent but her nearest relations, and covering

her face when she goes out. The husband, on the other hand, does not

wear mourning for his wife, and may marry again the next day.

The law of inheritance is as follows: when a man dies his wife receives

one fourth of his goods; the mother of the deceased has a tenth of

the three other fourths, and the father a fourth of the remainder; the

children’s share, which is thus reduced to one half, is so divided,

that each boy shall have twice as much as each girl. When the husband

inherits, he takes half the property of his wife, and the other half

is divided among the grand-parents, and the grand-children, in the

same proportions. At the death of husband and wife without offspring,

the property goes back in the ascending line; for collateral branches

never inherit.

At the death of husband or wife, the uncle of the deceased becomes

guardian to the children, until they are eighteen, which is the age

of majority; the oxen which they are to inherit are confided to the

grandfather until that time. Children who are still at the breast are

sent to the zenagues, till they are two years old, and then return

to their uncle.

The Moors never grieve for any body’s death, and would think it

very improper to shed tears over the deceased, being persuaded that

his soul has ascended straightway to heaven! They shave the whole

body with the exception of the beard, and wrap it in a white shroud,

after having washed it with care; it is then left exposed in the tent

for four days, during which time the marabouts assemble round it and

sing verses of the Koran.

If the relations of the deceased are rich, they kill an ox to regale

the singers; if they are poor they only give a little sangleh every

evening. On the fifth day, they dig a grave about two feet and a

half deep, and the body is laid in it on one side, with the face

towards Mecca. Briars are placed upon the grave to protect it from

wild beasts. If the deceased was a person of consequence, the grave

is lined with mats; when it is filled up, an inscription is placed

upon it; the marabouts perform the salam and return to the camp.

The hassanes and zenagues do not bury their own dead, but have

recourse to the marabouts, who undertake the business for a small

remuneration. The women are not present at the interment of a man,

nor the men at that of a woman.

When a child is born its body is rubbed all over with fresh butter,

which is also given to its mother to take; her face is likewise rubbed

with it; she eats nothing but meat till her complete recovery. The

husband takes care to be absent himself when his wife is in labour,

for no sooner does a woman feel her pains coming on, than she screams

in the most frightful manner, and assails her husband in the most

abusive and indecent language. This is another of their customs! When

the child has acquired a little strength, it is slung in a pagne,

tied at the four corners to serve as a hammock. The mother usually

suckles the child herself.

The country of the Braknas is situated about sixty leagues E.N.E. of

St. Louis; it is bounded on the south by the Senegal; on the east by

the country of the Douiches;[26] on the N.E. by that of the Koonts;[27]

and on the north, by the tribe of Oulad-Lame,[28] which is united with

another neighbouring tribe; these two compose a nation formidable

on account of the depredations which they commit; they are not

Mahometans. The tribe of Labohs[29] is on the N.E., and to the west of

the Trarzas. This nation is composed of several tribes, some hassanes,

and others marabouts. The principal tribes of hassanes are: Oulad-Sihi,

Oulad-Aly, Oulad-Hamet, Oulad-Makhso, Oulad-Abdallah, Oulad-Baicar,

Oulad-Pis-nem-Nematema; of the marabouts, Dhiedhiebe-Touaryk,

Oulad-Tandora, and Oulad-Biery-Togat. Each of these tribes has its

separate and independent chief. Hamet-Dou is recognised as king by

the French government, and the duty on the trade in gum is paid into

his hands; he receives also the tax which is levied on merchant ships;

but the goods derived from these sources are divided amongst all the

chiefs and princes. The marabouts receive nothing from the princes.

These tribes are often engaged in war with one another, which they

undertake without the king’s consent. The crown is hereditary only

when the king leaves a son who is of age; if he leaves no children,

or minors only, it devolves to his brother, who enjoys it during life;

after his death, if the sons of the preceding king are of age to

inherit, the eldest succeeds to his father’s rights. The population

of the Braknas is not very numerous; it is divided into five classes,

which have been already mentioned: _hassanes_, _marabouts_, _zenagues_,

_laratines_, and _slaves_.

The hassanes may be considered as the aristocracy of the country and

its warriors; their armies consist of themselves and their slaves;

the zenagues join also, in the hope of pillage; the common people,

that is, the poorer hassanes, are attracted by the same hope, but

they serve only as volunteers, and the princes have no power to compel

free men to enlist in their armies.

When the chief of a tribe is cruel or unjust towards his subjects,

or even deficient in liberality, it is at every man’s option to

remove with his flocks, and to join any other tribe which he pleases;

hence nothing is more uncertain than the population of a tribe, which

increases or diminishes according to the reputation of its chief;

even the king’s own tribe is not exempt from desertion.

When the Moors make war upon one another, they take no prisoners; if

any of their enemies fall into their hands, they kill them immediately,

and the spoils of the slain belong to the conqueror. They fight from

a distance, and only attack by surprise. The chiefs fight like their

subjects; I have been told, however, that when Hamet-Dou goes to war,

he is always accompanied by one of his ministers, whose business it

is to hold him by his coussabe and to keep him at a safe distance:

report says the coussabe has never been torn; but this may be a

calumny. It is the hassanes who always make excursions against the

negroes to pillage them, and carry off slaves; and on these occasions

they are seldom accompanied by the zenagues. The hassanes are idle,

mendacious, thievish, envious, superstitious, and gluttonous; they

combine in short, all possible vices. An hassane who possesses a horse,

a gun, and coussabe, thinks himself the happiest of mortals. Filthiness

they seem to consider as a virtue. The men swarm with vermin, of which

they take no pains to rid themselves. The women are disgusting; lying

always upon their couches, with their heads besmeared with butter,

which, being melted by the heat, runs down their faces and their whole

bodies: they exhale in consequence a perfume which to Europeans is

any thing but agreeable. In idleness they surpass the men, for they

will not even rise to take their food, but rest on their elbows while

a slave gives them their milk.

The commerce of the Braknas is carried on by the marabouts. It is they

who collect all the gum, for which they pay no tribute; and when they

have disposed of it to Europeans, they travel into a distant part of

the country, to sell the guns and Guinea cloth which they receive in

exchange. They often stop at Adrar, seven days’ journey north of lake

Aleg; this town gives its name to a small kingdom, and is inhabited

by a number of marabouts who are wholly engaged in agriculture,

and keep numerous herds of cattle. Dates are plentiful in this part;

the fields are surrounded by date-trees. These marabouts do not live

in tents, like the Braknas; they have mud houses one story high, and

flat at the top. They barter their dates and millet, for the guns and

Guinea cloth of the Braknas; of the Guinea cloth they make garments,

for they grow no cotton. They have many slaves, who are employed

in the cultivation of rice and millet, and in the tending of the

cattle. Pasturage is not abundant in the neighbourhood of the town,

so that they are obliged to send their flocks to a distance to graze:

it is said that the slaves who take care of them are sometimes absent

for one or two months. This nation is peaceful, and only takes up

arms to defend itself against the depredations of its neighbours. It

is during the rainy season that the Braknas undertake their trips to

Adrar, in which they are compelled to cross a desert of four days’

journey. These particulars I received from some marabouts who have

visited that country several times. I intended to accompany those

who were going the following spring, if I had remained among them.

The Brakna marabouts are as idle as the hassanes; they take no other

exercise than walking to the mosque; and their only diversion is

reading the Koran. They sometimes converse together as they lie on

the sand, and go to sleep while talking over religion and politics.

Of all the classes of Moors the marabouts give the least and require

the most; their quality of priests causing them to be considered

as the dispensers of favours, they are never refused any thing,

especially as the Moors are persuaded that they shall gain heaven

by liberality. It is not to the hassanes alone that they apply;

they harass one another also, and they torment the poor zenagues

more especially. This class, despised by the others, is oppressed

by them all. If the marabouts do not maltreat them as the hassanes

do they threaten them with everlasting fire; and the poor zenague,

in the hope of a happier life hereafter, strips himself to comply

with the demands of his insatiable masters in this. Those marabouts

who have no slaves to collect gum, being far too lazy to work for

themselves, would be without clothes if the zenagues did not supply

them with the means of procuring them. In the same way they obtain

bags of butter to sell at the markets for Guinea cloth. It may be

thought, perhaps, that the marabouts are grateful, and know how to

appreciate the sacrifices which the zenague makes to please them; but

ingratitude is one of their vices, and scarcely have they obtained

what they want before they slander their benefactors, curse them,

and devote them to eternal fire.

Some of these wretches, who have no other means of subsistence, settle

amongst the zenagues to instruct their children: besides their food,

they receive in payment sheep, butter, tanned hides, and stuff for

tent-covering.

The marabouts are not more susceptible of friendship than of

gratitude. I told Mohammed-Sidy-Moctar one day, that I should like to

go and see his son-in-law; he tried immediately to dissuade me. “He

is a good-for-nothing fellow,” said he; “he ought to have given

you an ox the first time you went to his tent, and he only gave you

a coussabe; he never gives _me_ any thing; he does not like me.”

I asked him if he liked Hamet-Dou, who had made him presents before

my eyes: “Oh,” said he, “Hamet-Dou is rich.”

I recollect, that when I was leaving the camp, I gave a pagne to a

slave who had taken care to supply me with sangleh; my marabout, who

was near, took the pagne from her, and gave her a severe scolding. I

insisted that the pagne should be returned, but he would not hear of

it, and he scolded me in my turn, and told me that a marabout ought

never to give, but always to receive. At last he handed the pagne to

my guide, and bade him put it with the rest of my goods. This trait

conveys a good idea of their character.

If they are ungrateful, they are also inhuman. They treat their

slaves with barbarity; calling them by insulting names, beating them,

and requiring a great deal of service in return for very little food,

and having no other garment than a sheep-skin. I sometimes protested

against the cruelty with which these wretches were treated. “They

are slaves, they are infidels,” was the reply; “you see that

they never pray; they know neither God nor the prophet.” I have

seen slaves however who prayed with the utmost regularity, and were

no better treated for it; neither did it save them from the degrading

appellation of slaves.

The office of the marabouts renders them more dissembling than the

hassanes; they are less cruel, and more hospitable; but I have found

repeatedly that they receive strangers unwillingly, rather from the

fear of insult or pillage than from humanity.

A European traveller who should not make up his mind to dissemble,

as I did, if he were to escape the fanatic fury of the hassanes,

would probably not be murdered by the marabouts; but they would forbid

him to enter their tents; and they would afford him no sustenance;

or if they gave him a little milk to save him from dying of hunger,

it would be in the hope of being well paid. If a christian were to

fall into the hands of the hassanes or zenagues, there is no kind of

torture to which he would not be exposed.

The marabouts wander less from the banks of the river, than the

hassanes; they remove their camps less frequently, and never change

their place except to seek pasturage.

The zenagues, or tributaries, are the most wretched of the Moors;

they are the serfs of the hassanes, and every hassane has more or

fewer under his command. They exact from them annual contributions,

consisting in general of a mator (about a quarter of a barrel) of

millet, a calabash of butter, a few sheep-skins, and a _laize_ of

stuff for a tent; or a cow and a calabash of butter from each. The

tributaries pay with the utmost exactness; but their unjust and

grasping lords always claim more than is due, and inflict the most

horrible tortures to extort what they want. I have already mentioned

how they drag them at the camel’s tail; but their cruelty goes

still farther; if nothing can be got by torturing a poor zenague,

his barbarous master not unfrequently stabs him. They are never safe

from these tyrants, who pursue them even into their camps; where

they sometimes take up their abode for days, and call for whatever

they like.

The zenagues possess few oxen, but large flocks of sheep and goats,

of whose milk they make butter, which they can exchange at the

markets for Guinea cloth. They are allowed to keep a few slaves,

who are employed in taking care of their flocks; but they must not

send their slaves to collect gum, or the hassanes would take it all

for them. They seldom go far from the river, and usually encamp in a

thick wood, to avoid as much as possible the troublesome visitations

of the hassanes and other travellers. They prefer marshy land, because

it affords most food for their cattle. They have a great deal of milk,

but its flavour is unpleasant, owing to the many rank herbs which the

ewes and goats feed upon; it is so bad indeed, that the hassanes and

marabouts who come amongst them will hardly drink it, and never if

they can procure any other.

Immediately after the waters retire, the zenagues come down to the

banks of the river to sow millet; they work in the fields themselves

with their slaves. The women, laborious through necessity, spin and

weave the hair of the sheep and camels, to form coverings for their

tents; they also sew them together; tan leather, make the varrois

and every thing else except iron-work. Their method of tanning

is as follows: if it is an ox-hide, they cut it down the middle;

they then make a pit in the ground and plaster it with cow-dung;

after having moistened the hide, and rubbed it with ashes, they put

it into the pit, and cover it carefully with ashes. Having thrown

water upon the ashes so as to wet them thoroughly, they close up the

pit with a layer of cow-dung. The hide is left in this state for six

or eight days, at the end of which time they scrape it with a knife

to take off the hair, and then wash it well to cleanse it from the

ashes. When cleaned it is put into a large calabash with the bark

of the boscia and the seed of the mimosa, (the same that is known

in commerce by the name of babela, and on the Senegal by that of

nem-nem,) taking care to rub and mix them well. Water is poured upon

it to soak it thoroughly; in this state it is left for four days or

more, then taken out again and scraped, to remove any hair that may

have remained after the first operation. When thoroughly cleaned, it

is again put into the calabash with an increased quantity of seed,

reduced to powder and sufficiently moistened. Four days suffice

to tan it completely. At the end of this time, it is well washed,

and scraped with sharp-edged shells, which the Moors bring from the

sea-shore. Sheep and goat skins are tanned in the same manner, only

more quickly, from being thinner. The leather which is tanned by this

process, is exactly of the same colour as ours, and very good. For

common purposes it is used without further preparation, and a little

butter is applied to grease it, when it is required to be particularly

supple. The women also make soap of beef-tallow and ley; but the soap

is very bad, washes ill and gives an unpleasant smell to the linen.

When a tributary is unusually oppressed by his master, he can choose

another. He takes his flocks and all he possesses to him to whom he

wishes to subject himself, and tries to cut off his ear, if he finds

him asleep, or to kill his horse; from that moment he is tributary

to this new master, who has immense power over him, while the former

loses all his authority. If the fugitive should be taken again before

he has cut off the ear or killed the horse, he is beaten, stripped of

all he possesses, and driven away without mercy. He is then extremely

wretched; few people will grant him hospitality; his life is only

protracted suffering, and he frequently sinks under the weight of his

misery, while none of his fellows deigns to bestow on him a look of

pity. I saw one in the camp where I was, who came stark naked to beg

alms and shelter; instead of awakening the least symptom of compassion,

he was driven away with blows, and they even set the dogs at him. What

would become of this unhappy creature? And what cause could there be

for such cruelty? Had he lost the attributes of humanity because he

wished to change his oppressor? With what pleasure would I have gone

without my supper, to give it to him! but his relentless countrymen

would not allow me this satisfaction.

I have been told that in times of scarcity the zenagues eat

grasshoppers, drying them first in the sun; this, however, I suspect

to be only a fiction to degrade the zenagues in my estimation; for,

as they cultivate millet, and possess flocks, they are usually better

provided with food than the other classes, and must suffer less in

a scarcity than the less industrious orders. In the whole course

of my peregrinations, though I have been among very needy tribes,

I have never seen the Moors eat grasshoppers.

The haddads (or blacksmiths) belong to the class of tributaries,

and are, perhaps, still worse off than those who are employed in

agriculture and the care of flocks. They cannot inhabit a separate

camp, if they did, the hassanes would plunder them; they are obliged,

in order to avoid their rapacity, to dwell in the same camps as the

marabouts, and make them the guardians of all they possess.

Notwithstanding the pains I took, I never could learn the origin of

this race, nor how it had been reduced to pay tribute to the other

Moors; when I made inquiries on the subject, I was always told that

it pleased God it should be so, and that they were infidels who seldom

performed the salam. Can they be remains of conquered tribes? And, if

so, why is there no tradition left about them? This can hardly be; for

the Moors, proud of their ancestors, never forget the names of those

who have been a credit to their race; and the zenagues, forming the

majority of the population, and being, moreover, accustomed to war,

would have revolted under the conduct of some descendant of their

former chiefs, and recovered their liberty, by exterminating their

oppressors. It is in their power to do so, for they are very numerous.

The fourth class of the Moorish population is composed of the offspring

of a Moor and a black slave; they are called laratines. Though slaves

by birth, they are never sold, but have land of their own, and are

treated almost like the zenagues. The laratines, whose fathers are

hassanes, are warriors; those, whose fathers are marabouts, receive

instruction and embrace the profession of their fathers. Proud of

their birth, they are not very obedient to their masters, and it is

only by force that the latter can compel them to pay the tribute which

is due to them. They possess few cattle, for they are not allowed to

increase their herds, lest they should enfranchise themselves if they

were to become wealthy. The laratines and the zenagues have the care

of the herds which the hassanes possess out of their camps.

The slaves form the fifth class, and are all negroes. They are charged

with all the labours of the camp—the care of flocks, the providing of

water and wood, and the culture of the land. The women pound millet,

prepare food, wait upon their mistresses, water the calves, fetch

water, and if they belong to marabouts, collect haze and gum. On

a journey, the slaves carry on their heads whatever cannot be laid

upon oxen. They are, as I have already mentioned, ill treated, ill

fed, and beaten at the caprice of their masters, whether they have

committed any fault or not. They are seldom addressed by any name

but that of _slave_. In short, there is no species of vexation,

which they are not obliged to endure.

The Moors leave the banks of the river, when the rainy season

commences, that is at the beginning of August; for not only would

they be greatly incommoded by the inundations, but they would also

be exposed to many diseases which they occasion, and their cattle

would be devoured by the mosquitoes. They remove to the N.E., to the

confines of the great desert, where they find plentiful pasturage,

and a salubrious climate, and are free from the inconveniences which

they would suffer in the vicinity of marshes. They return towards the

river when the waters retire, and reside there from March till August.

The dress of the wealthy Moors consists, in a _drah_, or tunic of

Guinea cloth, which reaches nearly to the knees; the sleeves are as

wide as the body and hang down to the ground. Loose drawers containing

six or eight yards of Guinea cloth come down to their knees; a pagne

completes the dress; this is put on over the tunic, and sometimes

on their heads also, like a turban. Those who cannot afford a tunic,

wear only a coussabe[30] made of two or three yards of Guinea cloth.

The Moors shave all the hairy parts of the body except the beard,

which they suffer to grow and hold in great veneration. A fine beard

is the greatest ornament of a Musulman.

The dress of the woman is half a piece (about seven yards) of Guinea

cloth, which they wrap three times round them. With one end, consisting

of about one third of the stuff, they make a kind of coussabe, doubling

the stuff down and sewing it so as to leave three holes, one for the

head, and two for the arms. The openings are not at the side, as they

are in the men’s dresses, and the stuff falls in drapery so as not

to obstruct the motion of the body; where it is sewed together at

each shoulder, there is a silver clasp, which serves to support the

second round of the stuff; the third passes over the head, and forms

a head-dress.

In mourning, or in the presence of strangers, of christians especially,

they put it on so as to show nothing but their eyes. This dress is

called _malafé_; they have no change of apparel, but wear it for

two or three months without washing, and are often two years without

being able to procure a new one.

They have fine hair which they lay in tresses round the head in an oval

form, two smaller tresses which unite under the ear, are ornamented

with pieces of glass, and hang down on each side of the head. Some of

them have, on the sides, two other longer tresses, from which they

suspend strings of amber, coral, and glass beads, hanging down upon

the breast; others again have an immense number of tresses, but always

loaded with ornaments. Those who do not suspend their string of beads

from the hair, attach it to the clasps of their dress; they are not

in the habit of wearing it round the neck. A strip of Guinea cloth,

five feet in length, and five or six inches wide, completes their

head-dress; they wrap it several times round the head. They grease

their hair daily with butter; this custom preserves the hair extremely

well, but communicates an insupportably rank smell. The young girls

have a large gold ear-ring in the lower part of each ear, and four

others in the upper part, which is bent down by their weight. Women

of twenty-four wear only one small ring in the upper part of the ear.

Children go quite naked till the age of twelve or fourteen; their

heads are shaved and figures drawn upon them, or tufts of hair left;

but sometimes only half the head is shaved. At twelve the hair of

the girls is suffered to grow, and the boys are completely shaved

at eighteen. The opinion of some travellers, accredited in Senegal

from popular stories respecting the manner of cutting the hair of the

young people and leaving tufts to be cut off by degrees as they may

distinguish themselves by brilliant actions, is absolutely false,

at least in regard to the Braknas. I have had many occasions to

know that these tufts of hair are a mere matter of fancy and that

the number depends upon the will of the shaver or of the young man

himself. It is a fashion which varies with individual taste; it is

rare to see two heads trimmed in the same manner, excepting amongst

the men above eighteen years of age, who closely crop the whole head.

I have already observed that the Moorish women have great influence

over their husbands; I repeat it here, to correct an error into

which M. Durand has fallen, and which he may have communicated to his

readers. The husband has no authority over his wife but what a superior

understanding gives him; I should even say that the Mooresses possess

more influence over their husbands than our French women. They rarely

wait upon them; and only for want of slaves; even then I have always

seen that in this case a neighbour would lend a woman to pound the

millet and make the sangleh. I except the zenague women; but if these

perform menial offices for their husbands, it is because the slaves

are occupied; and besides they are in the habit of working. M. Durand

says also that wives are never admitted to the meals of their husbands:

I have witnessed the contrary; I have seen them eat with their sons

and husbands, not often, indeed, but I have remarked that it was

owing to the custom which the women have of taking nothing but milk,

which is set before them in small calabashes.

It is likewise incorrect to assert that the mother pays any deference

to her son; or that the father and mother affect indifference to their

daughters; the son is always submissive to his mother and pays her the

utmost respect; and if the parents shew some preference for the boys,

they do not love their daughters with less tenderness. Besides, I

have never witnessed rejoicings at the birth either of a boy or a girl.

The greater part of the Moors believe that we live upon the sea,

and that we have only a few little islands like St. Louis: under

this impression they imagine that we wish to possess ourselves of

their country, which they consider as the finest in the world. The

marabouts are better informed, and know that we inhabit a country

far superior to theirs. They often expressed their regret that they

had nothing good to offer me; observing that God would recompense

me for my voluntary privations, in relinquishing the happy land of

the christians to live amongst them. They have however no idea of

our arts or manufactures. They often inquired what use we made of

gum and were always persuaded that I was deceiving them; they would

not believe any other than that we transform it into amber, which

it somewhat resembles in colour, and into other merchandise of great

value, and that we could not dispense with gum nor even exist without

it. I could not undeceive them on this point; and in like manner when

discussions arise at the settlements or at the markets, or if they

are refused what they ask, they threaten to bring no more gum.

Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo; and across the Great Desert, to Morocco, performed in the years 1824-1828, Vol. 1 (of 2) · 第 3 / 18 章