Do not imagine these little ceremonies to be insignificant and beneath

your attention; they are the customs of society; and if you do not

conform to them, you will gain the unenviable distinction of being

pointed out as an ignorant, ill-bred person. Not that you may _care_ the

more for strangers by showing them civility, but you should scrupulously

avoid the imputation of being deficient in good-breeding; and if you do

not choose to be polite for _their_ sakes, you ought to be so for _your

own_.

Letters of introduction should only be given by actual friends of the

persons addressed, and to actual friends of their own. Never, if you are

wise, give a letter to a person whom you do not know, nor address one to

one whom you know slightly. The letter of introduction, if actually

given to its bearer, should be left unsealed, that he may not incur the

fate of the Persian messenger, who brought tablets of introduction

recommending the new acquaintance to cut his head off. A letter of this

kind must therefore be carefully worded, stating in full the name of the

person introduced, but with as few remarks about him as possible. It is

generally sufficient to say that he is a friend of yours, whom you trust

your other friend will receive with attention, etc. In traveling it is

well to have as many letters as possible, but not to pin your faith on

them.

DINNER PARTIES.

Invitations to dine, from a married party, are sent in some such form as

the following:

Mr. and Mrs. A---- present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. B----,

and request the honor, [or hope to have the pleasure] of their

company to dinner on Wednesday, the 10th of December next, at

seven.

A---- Street, November 18th, 18--.

R. S. V. P.

The letters in the corner imply "_Repondez, s'il vous plait_;" meaning,

"an answer will oblige." The reply, accepting the invitation, is

concluded in the following terms:

Mr. and Mrs. B---- present their compliments to Mr. and Mrs. A----,

and will do themselves the honor, [or will have much pleasure in]

accepting their kind invitation to dinner on the 10th of December

next.

B---- Square, November 21st, 18--.

The answer to invitations to dine, accepting or declining, should be

sent immediately, and are always addressed to the lady. If, after you

have accepted an invitation, anything occurs to render it impossible for

you to go, the lady should be informed of it immediately. It is a great

breach of etiquette not to answer an invitation as soon after it is

received as possible, and it is an insult to disappoint when we have

promised.

Cards or invitations for a dinner party, should be issued at least two

weeks beforehand, and care should be taken by the hostess, in the

selection of the invited guests, that they should be suited to each

other. Much also of the pleasure of the dinner-party will depend on the

arrangement of the guests at table, so as to form a due admixture of

talkers and listeners, the grave and the gay.

Letters or cards of invitation should always name the hour of dinner;

and well-bred people will arrive as nearly at the specified time as they

can. Be sure and not be a minute behind the time, and you should not get

there long before, unless the invitation requests you particularly to

come early for a little chat before dinner.

It is always best for the lady of the house, where a dinner-party is to

come off, to be dressed and ready to appear in the drawing-room as early

as possible, so that if any of the guests should happen to come a little

early, she may be prepared to receive them. It is awkward for both

parties where visitors arrive before the lady of the house is ready for

them. If it is necessary for her to keep an eye upon the dinner, it is

still best that she should familiarly receive her guests, and beg to be

excused, if it is necessary for her to vanish occasionally to the

kitchen. A real lady is not ashamed to have it known that she goes into

the kitchen; on the contrary, it is more likely that she will be a

little proud of being thought capable of superintending the preparing

feast.

It is not in good taste for the lady of the house, where a dinner-party

is given, to dress very much. She leaves it for her lady-guests to make

what display they please, and she offers no rivalry to their fine

things. She contents herself with a tasty _neglige_, which often proves

the most fascinating equipment after all, especially, if the cheeks

become a little flushed with natural bloom, in consequence of the

exercise and anxiety incident to the reception of the guests.

The half hour before dinner has always been considered as the great

ordeal through which the lady of the house, in giving a dinner-party,

will either pass with flying colors, or lose many of her laurels. The

anxiety to receive her guests, her hope that all will be present in good

time, her trust in the skill of her cook, and the attention of the other

domestics all tend to make the few minutes a trying time. The lady

however, must display no kind of agitation, but show her tact in

suggesting light and cheerful subjects of conversation, which will be

much aided by the introduction of any particular new book, curiosity of

art, or article of _virtu_, which may pleasantly engage the attention of

the company.

"Waiting for dinner," however, is a trying time, and there are few who

have not felt----

"How sad it is to sit and pine,

The long _half-hour_ before we dine!

Upon our watches oft we look,

Then wonder at the clock and cook,

And strive to laugh in spite of Fate!

But laughter forced, soon quits the room,

And leaves it to its former gloom.

But lo! the dinner now appears,

The object of our hope and fears,

The end of all our pain!"

In giving an entertainment of this kind, the lady should remember that

it is her duty to make her guests feel happy, comfortable, and quite at

their ease; and the guests should also consider that they have come to

the house of their hostess to be happy.

When dinner is on the table, the lady and gentleman of the house will

have an opportunity of showing their tact by seeing that the most

distinguished guests, or the _oldest_, are shown into the dining-room

first, and by making those companions at the table who are most likely

to be agreeable to each other. The lady of the house may lead the way,

or follow her guests into the dining-room, as she pleases. Among those

who delight to follow the etiquette of the English nobility, the latter

practice is followed. But the practice must not be considered a test of

good breeding in America. If the lady leads, the husband will follow

behind the guests, with the lady on his arm who is to sit at his side.

The old custom is still followed to some extent in this country, of the

lady taking the head of the table, with the two most favored guests

seated, the one at her right and the other at her left hand; while the

gentleman of the house takes the foot of the table, supported on each

side by the two ladies most entitled to consideration. But this old rule

is by no means slavishly followed in polite society in this country.

In order to be able to watch the course of the dinner, and to see that

nothing is wanting to their guests, the lady and gentleman of the house

usually seat themselves in the centre of the table, opposite each other.

When all the guests are seated, the lady of the house serves in plates,

from a pile at her left hand, the soup, which she sends round, beginning

with her neighbors right and left, and continuing till all are helped.

These first plates usually pass twice, for each guest endeavors to

induce his neighbor to accept what was sent to him.

The gentleman then carves, or causes to be carved by some expert guest,

the large pieces, in order afterwards to do the other honors himself. If

you have no skill in carving meats, do not attempt it; nor should you

ever discharge this duty except when your good offices are solicited by

him; neither can we refuse anything sent us from his hand.

HABITS AT TABLE.

As soon as dinner is announced, the host or hostess will give the signal

for leaving the drawing-room, and in all probability you will be

requested to escort one of the ladies to the table. If this should

occur, offer the lady your left arm, and at the table remain standing

until every lady is seated, then take the place assigned to you by the

hostess. When you leave the parlor, pass out first, and the lady will

follow you, still lightly holding your arm. At the door of the

dining-room, the lady will drop your arm. You should then pass in, and

wait at one side of the entrance till she passes you. Having arrived at

the table, each gentleman respectfully salutes the lady whom he

conducts, who in her turn, also bows and takes her seat.

Nothing indicates the good breeding of a gentleman so much as his

manners at table. There are a thousand little points to be observed,

which, although not absolutely necessary, distinctly stamp the refined

and well-bred man. A man may pass muster by _dressing well_, and may

sustain himself tolerably in conversation; but if he be not perfectly

_"au fait," dinner_ will betray him.

Any unpleasant peculiarity, abruptness, or coarseness of manners, is

especially offensive at table. People are more easily disgusted at that

time than at any other. All such acts as leaning over on one side in

your chair, placing your elbows on the table, or on the back of your

neighbor's chair, gaping, twisting about restlessly in your seat, are

to be avoided as heresies of the most infidel stamp at table.

Though the body at table should always be kept in a tolerably upright

and easy position, yet one need not sit bolt-upright, as stiff and prim

as a poker. To be easy, to be natural, and to appear comfortable, is the

deportment required.

Always go to a dinner as neatly dressed as possible. The expensiveness

of your apparel is not of much importance, but its freshness and

cleanliness are indispensable. The hands and finger-nails require

especial attention. It is a great insult to every lady at the table for

a man to sit down to dinner with his hands in a bad condition.

It is considered vulgar to take fish or soup twice. The _reason_ for not

being helped twice to fish or soup at a large dinner-party is, because

by doing so you keep three parts of the company staring at you whilst

waiting for the second course, which is spoiling, much to the annoyance

of the mistress of the house. The selfish greediness, therefore, of so

doing constitutes its vulgarity. At a family dinner it is of less

importance, and is consequently often done.

You will sip your soup as quietly as possible from the side of the

spoon, and you, of course, will not commit the vulgarity of blowing in

it, or trying to cool it, after it is in your mouth, by drawing in an

unusual quantity of air, for by so doing you would be sure to annoy, if

you did not turn the stomach of the lady or gentleman next to you.

Be careful and do not touch either your knife or your fork until after

you have finished eating your soup. Leave your spoon in your soup plate,

that the servant may remove them.

Never _use your knife to convey_ your food to your mouth, _under any

circumstances_; it is unnecessary, and glaringly vulgar. Feed yourself

with a _fork_ or _spoon_, _nothing else_--a knife is only to be used for

cutting.

If at dinner you are requested to help any one to sauce, do not pour it

over the meat or vegetables, but on one side. If you should have to

carve and help a joint, do not load a person's plate--it is vulgar; also

in serving soup, one ladleful to each plate is sufficient.

Fish should always be helped with a silver fish-slice, and your own

portion of it divided by the fork aided by a piece of bread. The

application of a knife to fish is likely to destroy the delicacy of its

flavor; besides which, fish sauces are often acidulated; acids corrode

steel, and draw from it a disagreeable taste.

The lady and gentleman of the house are, of course, helped last, and

they are very particular to notice, every minute, whether the waiters

are attentive to every guest. But they do not press people either to eat

more than they appear to want, nor _insist_ upon their partaking of any

particular dish. It is allowable for you to recommend, so far as to say

that it is considered "excellent," but remember that tastes differ, and

dishes which suit _you_, may be unpleasant to others; and that, in

consequence of your urgency, some modest people might feel themselves

compelled to partake of what is disagreeable to them.

Neither ladies nor gentlemen ever wear gloves at table, unless their

hands, from some cause, are not fit to be seen.

Avoid too slow or too rapid eating; the one will appear as though you

did not like your dinner, and the other as though you were afraid you

would not get enough.

Making a noise in chewing your food, or breathing hard in eating, are

unseemly habits, which will be sure to get you a bad name at table,

among people of good-breeding. Let it be a sacred rule that _you cannot

use your knife, or fork, or teeth too quietly_.

Avoid picking your teeth, if possible, at table, for however agreeable

such a practice might be to yourself, it may be offensive to others. The

habit which some have of holding one hand over the mouth, does not avoid

the vulgarity of teeth-picking at table.

Unless you are requested to do so, never select any particular part of a

dish; but if your host asks you what part you prefer, name some part, as

in this case the incivility would consist in making your host choose as

well as carve for you.

If your host or hostess passes you a plate, keep it, especially if you

have chosen the food upon it, for others have also a choice, and by

passing it, you may give your neighbor dishes distasteful to him, and

take yourself those which he would much prefer.

If a dish is distasteful to you, decline it, but make no remarks about

it. It is sickening and disgusting to explain at a table how one article

makes you sick, or why some other dish has become distasteful to you. I

have seen a well-dressed tempting dish go from a table untouched,

because one of the company told a most disgusting anecdote about finding

vermin served in a similar dish.

If the meat or fish upon your plate is too rare or too well-done, do not

eat it; give for an excuse that you prefer some other dish before you;

but never tell your host that his cook has made the dish uneatable.

If a gentleman is seated by the side of a lady or elderly person,

politeness requires him to save them all trouble of pouring out for

themselves to drink, and of obtaining whatever they are in want of at

the table. He should be eager to offer them whatever he thinks to be

most to their taste.

Never pare an apple or a pear for a lady unless she desire you, and then

be careful to use your fork to hold it; you may sometimes offer to

_divide a very large pear_ with or for a person.

It is not good taste to praise extravagantly every dish that is set

before you; but if there are some things that are really very nice, it

is well to speak in their praise. But, above all things, avoid seeming

indifferent to the dinner that is provided for you, as that might be

construed into a dissatisfaction with it.

Some persons, in helping their guests, or recommending dishes to their

taste, preface every such action with a eulogy on its merits, and draw

every bottle of wine with an account of its virtues; others, running

into the contrary extreme, regret or fear that each dish is not exactly

as it should be; that the cook, etc., etc. Both of these habits are

grievous errors. You should leave it to your guests alone to approve, or

suffer one of your intimate friends who is present, to vaunt your wine.

If you ask the waiter for anything, you will be careful to speak to him

gently in the tone of _request_, and not of _command_. To speak to a

waiter in a driving manner will create, among well-bred people, the

suspicion that you were sometime a servant yourself, and are putting on

_airs_ at the thought of your promotion. Lord Chesterfield says: "If I

tell a footman to bring me a glass of wine, in a rough, insulting

manner, I should expect that, in obeying me, he would contrive to spill

some of it upon me, and I am sure I should deserve it."

Should your servants break anything while you are at table, never turn

round, or inquire into the particulars, however annoyed you may feel.

If your servants betray stupidity or awkwardness in waiting on your

guests, avoid reprimanding them _publicly_, as it only draws attention

to their errors, and adds to their embarrassment.

Never commit the vulgarism of speaking when you have any food in your

mouth.

When you have occasion to change or pass your plate during dinner, be

careful and remove your knife and fork, that the plate _alone_ may be

taken, but after you have finished your dinner, cross the knife and fork

on the plate, that the servant may take all away, before bringing you

clean ones for dessert.

Do not put butter on your bread at dinner, and avoid biting or cutting

your bread from the slice, or roll; rather break off small pieces, and

put these in your mouth with your fingers.

It is considered vulgar to dip a piece of bread into the preserves or

gravy upon your plate and then bite it. If you desire to eat them

together, it is much better to break the bread in small pieces, and

convey these to your mouth with your fork.

Avoid putting bones, or the seeds of fruit, upon your table-cloth.

Rather place them upon the edge of your plate.

When you wish to help yourself to butter, salt, or sugar, use the

butter-knife, salt-spoon and sugar-tongs; to use your own knife, spoon

or fingers evinces great ignorance and ill-breeding.

It is customary in some American families to serve their guests with

coffee in the parlor after dinner. But this is a European custom which

is not generally practiced in polite American society. When coffee is

given at the close of the dinner, it is more usual to serve it before

the guests leave the table. The practice of handing it round in the

parlor or drawing-room, is an unnecessary inconvenience to the guests

particularly, without any compensating advantages.

Finger-glasses are generally handed round as soon as the viands are

removed, but they are intended merely to wet the fingers and around the

mouth. When the finger-glasses are passed, wet your fingers in them and

then wipe them upon your napkin. The habit of rinsing the mouth at table

is a disgusting piece of indelicacy, which is never practiced by any

well-bred person.

Upon leaving the table, lay your napkin beside your plate, but do not

fold it.

Do not leave the table until the lady of the house gives the signal, and

when you leave offer your arm to the lady whom you escorted to the

table.

It is generally the custom in this country for ladies to retain their

seats at table till the end of the feast, but if they withdraw, the

gentlemen all rise when they leave the table, and remain standing until

they have left the room.

Politeness demands that you remain at least an hour in the parlor, after

dinner; and, if you can dispose of an entire evening, it would be well

to devote it to the person who has entertained you. It is excessively

rude to leave the house as soon as dinner is over.

WINE AT TABLE.

Almost every gentleman has wine at his table whenever he has invited

guests. Indeed, wine is considered an indispensable part of a good

dinner, to which ladies and gentlemen have been formally invited. Even

if you are a total-abstinence man yourself, you will not, if you are

really a gentleman, attempt to compel all your guests to be so against

their wish. If you are so fanatical that you have what is called

"conscientious scruples" against furnishing wine, then you should invite

none to dine who are not as fanatical and bigoted as yourself. You must

consider that a gentleman may have "conscientious scruples" against

dining with you on cold water, for there are even temperate and sober

gentleman who would go without meat as soon as be deprived of their

glass of wine at dinner. The vegetarian, who would force his guests to

dine on cabbages and onions, is hardly guilty of a greater breach of

etiquette than the total-abstinence fanatic who would compel his guests

to go without wine.

If there is a gentleman at the table who is known to be a

total-abstinence man, you will not urge him to drink. He will suffer his

glass to be filled at the first passage of the wine, and raising it to

his lips, will bow his respects with the rest of the guests, and after

that his glass will be allowed to remain untouched. As little notice as

possible should be taken of his total-abstinence peculiarity. And, if he

is a gentleman, he will carefully avoid drawing attention to it

himself.

It is not now the custom to ask a lady across the table to take wine

with you. It is expected that every lady will be properly helped to wine

by the gentleman who takes her to the table, or who sits next to her.

But if you are in company where the old custom prevails, it would be

better breeding to follow the custom of the place, rather than by an

omission of what your entertainer considers civility, to prove him, in

face of his guests, to be either ignorant or vulgar. If either a lady or

gentleman is invited to take wine at table, they must _never refuse_; if

they do not _drink_, they need only touch the wine to their lips. Do not

offer to help a lady to wine until you see she has finished her soup or

fish.

Always wipe your mouth before drinking, as nothing is more ill-bred than

to grease your glass with your lips.

Do not propose to take wine with your host; it is his privilege to

invite you.

It is considered well bred to take the same wine as that selected by the

person with whom you drink. When, however, the wine chosen by him is

unpalatable to you, it is allowable to take that which you prefer, at

the same time apologizingly saying, "Will you permit me to drink

_claret_?" or whatever wine you have selected.

In inviting a lady to take wine with you at table, you should politely

say, "Shall I have the pleasure of a glass of wine with you?" You will

then either hand her the bottle you have selected, or send it by the

waiter, and afterwards fill your own glass, when you will politely and

silently bow to each other, as you raise the wine to your lips. The same

ceremony is to be observed when inviting a gentleman.

On raising the first glass of wine to his lips, it is customary for a

gentleman to bow to the lady of the house.

It is not customary to propose _toasts_ or to drink deep at a

gentleman's family table. Lord Byron describes "a largish party," as

"first silent, then talky, then argumentative, then disputatious, then

unintelligible, then altogethery, then drunk." But this was "a largish

party," which, it is to be hoped, was given at a tavern; for the man who

drinks to intoxication, or to any considerable degree of _elevation_, at

a gentleman's family table, ought never to expect to be invited a second

time.

At dinner-parties which are given to gentlemen, for the purpose of

conviviality, one may indulge in as much wine as he pleases, provided he

does not get _drunk_, and make a nuisance of himself. Where drinking,

and toasting, and bumpers, are the order of the feast, as at a public

dinner, given in honor of a distinguished man, or at the inauguration of

some public enterprise, far greater latitude is allowed, in all things,

than on more private and select occasions.

In conclusion of our article on table etiquette, we quote from a recent

English work, some humorous, but valuable hints:

"We now come to habits at table, which are very important. However

agreeable a man may be in society, if he offends or disgusts by his

table traits, he will soon be scouted from it, and justly so. There are

some broad rules for behavior at table. Whenever there is a servant to

help you, never help yourself. Never put a knife into your mouth, not

even with cheese, which should be eaten with a fork. Never use a spoon

for anything but liquids. Never touch anything edible with your fingers.

Martine's Hand-book of Etiquette, and Guide to True Politeness · 第 4 / 11 段