beauty, and which is therefore most appropriate as a hotel site, is
southeast of Mount Rainier, on one of the spurs of the Tatoosh
Mountains, near the Cowlitz Valley. To open this region to travel it
would be sufficient to establish the hotel and its connections down
the Nisqually or Cowlitz Valley, together with trails to points of
interest within the park. From the hotel a principal trail would
extend north to the Emmons and White River glaciers, which would thus
be easily accessible, and thence the railroad at Wilkeson could
readily be reached on horseback over the old Northern Pacific trail.
In the future, stage roads, or possibly a railroad, would be extended
over the Cowlitz Pass to the eastern slope, North Yakima would be
reached via the Tieton or Tannum Valley, and Tannum Lake would become
a favorite resort.
But the highway which would challenge the world for its equal in grand
scenery would extend from the Cowlitz Pass northward along the crest
of the range to the Cascade branch. The distance is 50 miles, 31 in
the park and 19 beyond it to the railroad. Within the reserve the
summit is open and park-like. On the east is a sea of mountains; on
the west is a bold descent of 3,000 feet to the valleys of Cowlitz and
White rivers, beyond which Tacoma rises in overpowering grandeur,
8,000 feet above the road and only 12 miles distant.
A committee of your memorialists has carefully examined the existing
maps of the State of Washington with special reference to the
position of this reserve, and finds that the boundaries of the
reserve are farther east, in relation to Mount Rainier, than was
supposed. The western boundary traverses the slope of Mount Rainier
at altitudes of 7,000 to 9,000 feet, and the glaciers extend several
miles beyond it. In order to include all of the glacial area and the
immediately adjacent forest on the west, your memorialists
respectfully recommend that the western boundary of the park be
drawn one range west of that of the reserve, viz., at the range line
between ranges 6 and 7 east of the Willamette meridian. By this
change no part of the Wilkeson-Carbonado coal field would be
included in the park.
Your memorialists find, as already stated, that it is not necessary to
include the eastern slope of the Cascades in the park, and furthermore
that it is desirable to leave the Natchez Pass on the north and the
Cowlitz Pass on the south open for the construction of railroads. Your
memorialists therefore pray that the park be defined by the following
boundaries: Beginning at the northwest corner of sec. 19, T. 18 N., R.
7 E. of the Willamette meridian; thence south 24 miles more or less to
the southwest corner of sec. 18, T. 14 N., R. 7 E.; thence east 27
miles more or less to the summit of the Cascade Range; thence in a
northerly direction to a point east of the place of beginning, and
thence west 26 miles more or less to the place of beginning.
Your memorialists respectfully represent that--
Railroad lines have been surveyed and after the establishment of a
national park would soon be built to its boundaries. The concessions
for a hotel, stopping places, and stage routes could be leased and the
proceeds devoted to the maintenance of the park. The policing of the
park could be performed from the barracks at Vancouver by details of
soldiers, who would thus be given useful and healthful employment from
May to October.
The establishment of a hotel would afford opportunity for a weather
station, which, in view of the controlling influence exerted by Mount
Rainier on the moisture-laden winds from the Pacific, would be
important in relation to local weather predictions.
Your memorialists further represent that this region of marvelous
beauty is even now being seriously marred by careless camping parties.
Its valuable forests and rare animals are being injured and will
certainly be destroyed unless the forest reserve be policed during the
camping seasons. But efficient protection of the undeveloped
wilderness is extraordinarily difficult and in this case practically
impossible.
Therefore, for the preservation of the property of the United States,
for the protection from floods of the people of Washington in the
Yakima, Cowlitz, Nisqually, Puyallup, and White River valleys, and for
the pleasure and education of the nation, your memorialists pray that
the area above described be declared a national park forever.
For the National Geographic Society:
GARDINER G. HUBBARD,
_President._
For the American Association for the Advancement of Science:
J. W. POWELL.
For the Geological Society of America:
BAILEY WILLIS.
For the Sierra Club:
JOHN MUIR.
For the Appalachian Mountain Club:
JOHN RITCHIE, JR.
WASHINGTON, D.C., _June 27, 1894_.
XVIII. MOUNT RAINIER IS 14,408 FEET HIGH
BY THE UNITED STATES GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
The United States Geological Survey issued a bulletin for
newspaper publication on January 22, 1914, giving the height
of the mountain as determined by the most accurate and
definitive methods known. That bulletin is here given as it
was then issued. At the same time F. E. Matthes, topographer
with the Survey, sent additional comment to the Sierra Club
of California, by whom it was published in the Sierra
Bulletin for January, 1914. This comment is now reproduced by
permission of the Sierra Club.
The height of the summit of Mount Rainier, Washington, has been
determined by the United States Geological Survey to be 14,408 feet
above mean sea level. This elevation now officially displaces the
former supposed height of the mountain of 14,363 feet and accords to
Mount Rainier the distinction of being the second highest mountain
peak in the United States, Mount Whitney, California, being the
highest. The correct height of Rainier was determined by a party of
topographic engineers of the Survey in connection with the mapping of
the Mount Rainier National Park, which was completed last summer. The
topographic survey of the park was begun in 1910 by F. E. Matthes,
continued in 1911 by Mr. Matthes and George R. Davis, and finished in
1913 by C. H. Birdseye, W. O. Tufts, O. G. Taylor, and S. E. Taylor.
In the mapping of the summit of the mountain a terrific blizzard was
encountered; in fact, two ascents of the upper portion of the mountain
were necessary. The first ascent of the upper 5,450 feet was begun at
5 o'clock A.M., August 16 [1913], and dawn broke with every indication
of developing into a beautiful day. On reaching the summit the men
encountered a terrific gale, clouds enveloped the mountain, preventing
observations, and by noon snow began to fall. A descent was attempted,
but the party became hopelessly lost in a labyrinth of crevasses, the
storm developing into a blizzard. To descend further was impossible;
to remain was suicide. Consequently a return to the crater was
ordered, and the men reached it after a two hours' climb, utterly
exhausted and nearly frozen. Here they sought shelter in one of the
steam caves, where during the long night they were thoroughly steamed
and half frozen in turn. Strenuous measures were employed by the men
to keep from falling asleep and freezing to death. As it was, their
fingers and ears were badly frozen. Finally, with a rising barometer,
they succeeded in descending 9,000 feet to a temporary camp, making
the descent in three hours. Here they recuperated and prepared for
another ascent, which was accomplished on August 20, the start being
made at 1 o'clock in the morning. Good weather was encountered and the
mapping of the entire summit was finished by 1 o'clock.
"If anyone thinks that American glaciers are play glaciers, or that
the weather which may be encountered at the summit of Mount Rainier in
August is uniformly balmy and springlike," said Mr. Birdseye, whose
fingers and ears were badly frosted, "let him climb Mount Rainier
during one of its summer blizzards. The steam caves in the crater are
not the pleasantest places imaginable to spend the night in, but had
they not been there, not one of us would be alive today to tell the
tale."
COMMENT BY F. E. MATTHES
The mountaineers of the Pacific Northwest will no doubt jubilate at
the above announcement by the United States Geological Survey of the
new figure for the altitude of Mount Rainier. It places that peak
close to the top of the list of high mountains in the United States.
Mount Rainier's closest rival on the Pacific coast, Mount Shasta, it
so happens, has just recently been beheaded by the United States Coast
and Geodetic Survey, and now can claim no more than 14,162 feet, that
is, 218 feet less than it once boasted. The great volcano of Puget
Sound is thus left well in the lead.
A review of the different figures that have been announced in the past
for each of the higher peaks of the United States would almost justify
one to infer that these summits have a peculiar habit of fluctuating
in height from time to time. Both Rainier and Shasta have been
notorious for their inconstancy; so much so indeed that it is to be
feared that the public will lose faith somewhat in the trustworthiness
of altitude determinations in general. There is good reason to
believe, however, that the last announcements for these two peaks are
not likely to be changed again. About Mount Shasta, perhaps the Coast
Survey is the only party able to speak positively; but as regards
Mount Rainier, the Geological Survey feels satisfied that the new
figure is the best that can be obtained with modern methods and
instruments.
The elevation of Mount Whitney (14,501 ft.), it may be remembered, was
determined by actual leveling, but such procedure would have been
impossible on Mount Rainier, as the most practicable route to its
summit leads over many miles of snow and ice, and up a precipitous
chute several hundred feet in height. On thawing snow accurate
leveling is out of the question, for the instrument can not be set up
so firmly that it will not settle slightly between back and fore
sights. To execute this pottering kind of work in freezing weather
would entail both hardship and great expense. But the obstacle that
would have proved entirely insuperable to levels on Mount Rainier and
led to the abandoning of that method is the dreaded Gibraltar Rock,
well known to many who read this magazine [Sierra Club Bulletin]. To
carry levels up its precipitous side is for practical considerations
all but impossible.
It was necessary, in the case of Mount Rainier, to resort to
long-distance methods of angulation. That is to say, sights were taken
to its summit from neighboring peaks, six to eight miles distant, the
altitudes of which had been carefully determined, and the positions of
which with respect to the mountain's summit had been computed from a
scheme of triangulation.
It is not possible to execute vertical-angle measurements of this sort
with the precision obtainable by leveling; at the same time by
providing a sufficient number of checks and repeating each measurement
many times a result can be attained that can be relied on within a
foot or two. And closer than that the determination of a snowcapped
peak, such as Mount Rainier, need scarcely be; for its actual height
is bound to fluctuate by several feet from year to year and even from
month to month.
It is gratifying to note how closely the new trigonometric
determination of Mount Rainier accords with the barometric one of
Prof. Alexander McAdie (14,394 ft.). It is hoped that this agreement
between the results of two fundamentally different methods will
strengthen public faith in their reliability, and lead to the
discarding of other figures (some of them much exaggerated) that have
appeared in print from time to time.
In closing, it may be said, that the Geological Survey's bulletin
little more than hints at the fortitude and pluck of Mr. Birdseye and
his party in their almost disastrous experiences on the peak. Survey
men are so frequently confronted by peril in their daily work, that
they are not apt to write or talk about it, and as a consequence the
public seldom learns the intimate details. It is to be hoped that the
history of this undertaking will some day appear in full.
[Illustration: PETER RAINIER.
Admiral of the Blue, Royal Navy. ]
XIX. PLACE NAMES AND ELEVATIONS IN MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK
Place names within a region like the Mount Rainier National
Park are produced by three causes: The first and most
important is the actual need of such names by those who work
within the Park and by those who report upon or write about
it. The second is the natural desire to honor those
individuals whose achievements are worthy of commemoration.
The third cause is found in the vanity of visitors. This is
sometimes manifested in the harmless and often helpful desire
just to be the one to name something, but usually it takes
the form of a desire of visitors to write the names of
themselves or their friends upon the map.
The ranger who discovers from a look-out peak a distant fire
near some unnamed lake or cliff hastens to a telephone, but
finds his work of sending fire fighters to the place of
danger much more difficult than if he could use some definite
place name. Trail builders and patrols continually find a
similar need for names. For their own use they proceed to
invent names which often stick. The Mountaineers in 1915
found that a trail builder had supplied such a need by giving
a beautiful waterfall near his trail the name of his favorite
brand of canned peaches. More care of such matters is now
being exercised by those interested working through the
United States Geographic Board.
The elevations given are taken from the official map and
other Government publications. In time all important heights
will be definitely determined and marked.
It is hoped that this compilation of the names may be
improved from year to year. Further facts about any of the
names would be welcomed by the editor of this work.
=Ada Creek.= A tributary of Huckleberry Creek near the northern
boundary of the Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Adelaide Lake.= Near the north-central boundary of the Park. Origin
of name not ascertained.
=Affi Falls.= In Lodi Creek, in the north-central portion of the Park.
Origin of name not ascertained.
=Alice Falls.= In Spukwush Creek, in the northwestern portion of the
Park. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Alki Crest.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. The name is from
the Chinook jargon meaning "by and by."
=Allen Lake.= See Lake Allen.
=Alta Vista.= A point near the snow line on the south-central slope.
It was named by John P. Hartman, who visited the place with a Tacoma
party in 1889. The name is Spanish and means "high view."
=Anvil Rock.= On the southern slope, near the upper Cowlitz Glacier.
The name is descriptive, but who suggested it has not been
ascertained. Elevation, 9,584 feet above sea level.
=Arthur Peak.= In the northwestern corner of the Park. Origin of name
not ascertained.
=August Peak.= Near the northwestern boundary of the Park. Origin of
name not ascertained.
=Avalanche Camp.= On the north slope. Named by a member of The
Mountaineers, during that club's first ascent in 1909. Elevation,
10,900 feet above sea level.
=Baker Point.= Outjutting portion of Goat Island Mountain, overlooking
Emmons Glacier. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Bald Rock.= On the southeastern slope, near the Cowlitz Divide. The
name is descriptive.
=Barnes Pass.= On western edge of the Park. Named in honor of the
photographer, C. A. Barnes, who discovered it while with J. H. Weer
and J. B. Flett.
=Barrier Peak.= A prolongation of Governors Ridge near the
east-central boundary of the Park.
=Basaltic Falls.= On the southeastern slope of the mountain. One of
the features of Cowlitz Park. Named by Prof. J. B. Flett and H. H.
Garretson.
=Bear Park.= In the northeastern corner of the Park.
=Bee Flat.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, just south of
Chenuis Mountain.
=Beehive.= Large rock on the southeast slope. It was named by Major E.
S. Ingraham in 1888, who says: "It reminded me of one of those
old-fashioned beehives." Elevation, 11,033 feet above sea level.
=Beljica.= An interesting peak near the road leading from Ashford to
the Park. The name is a composite made up of initials. In July, 1897,
a party of nine young people visiting the peak provided the name. The
B was for Burgon D. Mesler, the e for any one of three--Elizabeth
Drabe, Elizabeth Sharp and Elizabeth Mesler, the l for Lucy K.
LaWall, the j for Jessie K. LaWall, the i for Isabel Mesler, the c
for Clara Mesler, and the a for Alexander Mesler.
=Bench Lake.= In the southern portion of the Park. The land lying
above the lake is called The Bench. Elevation of the lake, 4,500 feet
above sea level.
=Berkeley Park.= In the north-central portion of the Park, between
Burroughs and Skyscraper Mountains. Origin of name not ascertained.
=Berry Peak.= In the northwestern corner of the Park.
=Boulder Creek.= A tributary of Ohanapecosh River, in the park of the
same name, on the eastern slope of the mountain.
=Boundary Peak.= Appropriately named, as it lies on the southern
boundary line of the Park.
=Brown Peak.= In the northeastern corner of the Park.
=Buel Peak.= Near the east-central boundary of the Park. Origin of
name not ascertained. Elevation, 5,933 feet above sea level.
=Burnt Park.= In the northeastern corner of the Park.
=Burroughs Mountain.= On the northeast slope. It was named for the
naturalist and was at first called John Burroughs Mountain.
=Butter Creek.= Flowing from the Tatoosh Range across the southern
boundary of the Park.
=Camp Curtis.= On the northeast slope. Named by The Mountaineers in
1909 in honor of Asahel Curtis, leader of that club's first ascent.
Elevation, 9,000 feet above sea level.
=Camp Delight.= See Camp of the Stars.
=Camp Misery.= On the southern slope of the mountain at the base of
the Beehive. The name is descriptive. Elevation, 11,033 feet above sea
level.
=Camp Muir.= On the southeast slope. Named by Major E. S. Ingraham, in
honor of the naturalist, John Muir, who selected the temporary camping
place during their ascent in 1888, because the presence of pumice
indicated a shelter from strong winds. Elevation, 10,062 feet above
sea level.
=Camp No Camp.= On the southeastern slope, near the summit of the
mountain. It is in the saddle near the summit of Gibraltar. The name
indicates a disappointed attempt at rest. Elevation, 12,550 feet above
sea level.
=Camp of the Clouds.= On the south slope above Paradise Valley. Named
on August 12, 1886, by Charles E. Kehoe, Charles A. Billings and
George N. Talcott of Olympia. During their visit there the heavy banks
of clouds parted and gave them a superb mountain view. Elevation,
5,947 feet above sea level.
=Camp of the Stars.= On the southeastern slope of the mountain, near
the foot of Gibraltar. It is a narrow shelf of rocks, affording space
for a dozen climbers when crowded together and "feet hanging over." It
was used by one of the Ingraham parties, and H. E. Holmes says they at
first called it Camp Delight on account of their joy at the first rays
of morning. Elevation, about 12,000 feet above sea level.
=Canyon Bridge.= In the southeastern part of the Park. The Muddy Fork
of the Cowlitz River rushes through a very narrow and deep rift in the
rocks. The spanning bridge gives an attractive view.
=Carbon Glacier.= This glacier begins at the foot of Willis Wall on
the north face of the mountain.
=Carbon River.= About 1876 coal was discovered on the banks of this
river suggesting the name, which was also later given to the glacier
from which the river has its source.
=Carter Falls.= One of the beautiful features of the lower Paradise
River. Named for an early guide who built the first trail to Paradise
Valley. For years the Longmires collected a fee of fifty cents from
each one using the trail. It was willingly paid when it was explained
that the money went to the builder of the trail.
=Castle Rock.= In the northwestern portion of the Park. Named from its
resemblance to an old castle. Elevation, 6,116 feet above sea level.
=Cataract Basin.= See Mist Park.
=Cataract Creek.= Flows from Mist Park to the Carbon River in the
northwestern portion of the Park. About midway in its course are the
beautiful Cataract Falls.
=Cathedral Rocks.= Extending southeast from the summit. It is an
extensive cleaver between the upper Cowlitz and Ingraham Glaciers. Who
first suggested the name has not been ascertained. Elevation, 8,262
feet above sea level.
=Chenuis Mountain.= An extensive ridge near the northern boundary of
the Park. On the shoulders of the mountain rest three little lakes
called Chenuis Lakes. From the northern slopes of the mountain there
rises Chenuis Creek, which, near its junction with the Carbon River at
the northwestern boundary of the Park, produces the beautiful Chenuis
Falls. The name seems to be Indian, but its origin has not been
ascertained. Elevation of the ridge, from 4,000 to 6,000 feet above
sea level.
=Christine Falls.= On the lower portion of Van Trump creek. Mr. Van
Trump says the falls "were named after my daughter, Christine Louise,
by a friend John Hayes, of Yelm." Elevation, 3,667 feet above sea
level.
=Cliff Lake.= In the south-central portion of the Park, between the
Tatoosh Range and the boundary.
=Clover Lakes.= In White River Park, in the northwestern part of the
Park.
=Cold Basin.= In the northern portion of the Park, just south of Grand
Park.
=Colonnade.= The ridge lying between the South Mowich and the Puyallup
Glaciers on the west-central slope of the mountain.
=Columbia Crest.= Name suggested by H. E. Holmes of the Ingraham party
in 1891. They had spent two nights in the crater and before leaving
voted on a name for the highest part of the summit, with Columbia
Crest as the result. It has occasionally been called The Dome. By
Stevens and Van Trump it was called Crater Peak. Elevation, 14,408
feet above sea level.
=Comet Falls.= On the southern slope of the mountain, in Van Trump
Park. Elevation, 5,200 feet above sea level.
=Cougar Falls.= Near the southern boundary of the Park, in the Nickel
Creek tributary of the Cowlitz River.
=Cowlitz Chimneys.= Pointed and columnar rocks on the east-central
slope. Though not adjacent to the glacier or river of that name, they
undoubtedly got their name from one or the other. Elevation 7,607 feet
above sea level.
=Cowlitz Cleaver.= Near the southern peak of the summit. It is
appropriately named, as it cleaves the higher streams of ice part of
which flow into Puget Sound and the rest into the Columbia River.
=Cowlitz Divide.= A ridge running from north to south in the
southeastern corner of the Park.
=Cowlitz Glacier.= Named by General Hazard Stevens and P. B. Van Trump
in 1870 when they discovered it to be the source of the river by that
name. It has its beginning from a group of smaller glaciers on the
southeast slope of the mountain. Above the glaciers lies Cowlitz Park.
=Cowlitz River.= The name appears as early as the Lewis and Clark
reports, 1805-1806, where it is spelled Coweliskee. In varying forms
it appears in the writings of all subsequent explorers. A tribe of
Indians by that name inhabited its valleys. The river finally flows
southward into the Columbia River.
=Cowlitz Rocks.= A mass of rocks on the southeast slope, between the
Paradise and Cowlitz Glaciers. The rocks were named in 1907 by the
veteran guide, Jules Stampfler, who found a name necessary to satisfy
the curiosity of his companies of tourists. Elevation, 7,457 feet
above sea level.
=Crater Lake.= On the northwest slope. Bailey Willis gave the name in
1883. He recently wrote: "The amphitheatres which the young geologist
mistook for craters are now known to be glacier basins eroded by
ice." Elevation, 4,929 feet above sea level.
=Crater Peak.= See Columbia Crest.
=Crescent Mountain.= On the northern slope. The name was used by
Bailey Willis in 1883. Near the foot of this mountain lies Crescent
Lake.
=Cress Falls.= In the northwestern portion of the Park, near Spukwush
Creek.
=Crystal Mountain.= On the southwestern slope of the mountain,
overlooking Indian Henrys Hunting Ground. Elevation, 6,300 feet above
sea level.
=Cushman Crest.= On the southern slope, overlooking Nisqually Glacier.
Named in honor of the late Congressman F. W. Cushman, of Tacoma.