for the breaking of bread, held in the upper schoolroom, in Calle
Fernandina; and in the evening preached in German at a Chapel belonging
to Mr. A. Luis Empaytaz, who translated for him. On the evening of the
23rd, he preached at the English Episcopal Church, but the congregation
was very small; for in the whole of Barcelona there were not more than
about 120 English persons altogether. On the afternoon of the 24th he
attended a meeting for prayer and exhortation at the house of the
Wesleyan minister, and gave an address again to Christian Workers;
preached in the evening at the Fernandina schoolroom, and, on the
morning of Christmas Day, held a meeting at the Chapel belonging to Mr.
Empaytaz, where he preached in German, without translation. On the
afternoon of that day, at a tea-meeting at the San Gabriel schoolroom,
Gracia, he gave an address; and afterwards a letter in Spanish, from
many of the pupils then present (who formerly attended the schools of
the Scriptural Knowledge Institution), was read, thanking him for his
visit to Barcelona, and expressing their grateful acknowledgments for
the education they had received. Some of these young men were studying
at the University of Barcelona, and others were engaged elsewhere in
various useful occupations. A translation of this letter into German
was then handed in, and soon after 7 the meeting was brought to a
close.
On Dec. 28th we rose at 5, and at half past 6 were accompanied to the
station by several Christian friends, who kindly came to take leave of
us before our departure for Saragossa. At 7 o'clock we left Barcelona,
and travelled with two Spaniards, to each of whom we gave a Spanish
Gospel and some tracts, which were thankfully accepted, and read with
great attention. At 2 o'clock the passengers alighted to dine, at
Lerida; but we walked up and down the platform and gave away some
tracts, when in a moment a crowd of third-class passengers surrounded
us, who all pressed forward, eagerly desiring to obtain tracts or
gospels for themselves. The few we had were distributed immediately; but
so anxious were the applicants to obtain one _each_, that they followed
us to the railway carriage and lingered about the door. In a few minutes
other tracts were found and handed out, but, fearing to attract
attention and that our actions might be watched by Romish priests, we
held up our empty hands to show that we had nothing more to give. The
poor people were loth, however, to depart, and waited until the last
moment, thrusting their hands in at the window, with the hope of
receiving either a gospel or a tract. At half past 2 we left Lerida, and
after a journey of 228 miles, at a quarter to 9 p.m., reached Saragossa,
where, at the Fonda de las Cuatro Nationes, we found suitable
accommodation. The following morning (Sunday, Nov. 29th) a meeting was
held at Mr. Gulick's Church, when Mr. Mueller preached, with translation
by the pastor, and in the afternoon addressed the Sunday School children
at the same place. At the beginning of the service they chanted the 23rd
Psalm, and, at the close, sang a hymn, of which the following words are
a translation of the first verse:--
"Jesus Christ came down,
From Heaven to Bethlehem;
There, our Peace was born,
Our Felicity, Light, and Good.
Oh, blessed be God! Thanks be unto Thee, Lord,
For Jesus the Saviour."
This hymn was set to a lively tune, and sung in marked, quick time, with
great spirit and animation. In the evening Mr. Mueller preached again at
the same Church to a large, attentive audience.
On Dec. 30th we walked out with Mr. Gulick, who conducted us to one of
the _two_ Cathedrals in Saragossa--the only city in Spain which has two
Cathedral Churches. The architecture is Moorish, and some sculpture on
the walls represents the martyrdom of a few of the early Christians, and
that of St. Lawrence in particular, who, in the 4th century, was roasted
to death on a gridiron over a slow fire, by the command of one of the
Pagan Roman emperors. Though considered a Catholic by the Papists, it is
said that he was a true disciple of Christ. Some poor devotees were
worshipping at the shrines, to a few of whom we quietly gave Spanish
gospel tracts; and a tract was handed also to a gowned individual, a
verger or sacristan, with a wand of office, as he slowly wandered up and
down the aisles, who looked at us gloomily, but accepted it
nevertheless.
Our next visit was to the Cathedral of Nuestra Senora del Pilar, which
contains an image of the Virgin and Child on a jasper pedestal, said to
have come down direct from Heaven in the 1st century, and to have been
brought by the Apostle _James_ to Saragossa! To this image the most
extravagant miracles are attributed. Many persons were kissing the
pillar and crossing themselves, whilst others, dispersed about the
Cathedral, were kneeling on the stone pavement before various images of
saints. Whole regiments of soldiers, too, come in to kneel, bow, cross
themselves, and perform their devotions before the different shrines.
Oh! how responsible are _we_, who possess the pure gospel of the grace
of God, to make it known to poor idolators like these. In order to form
a correct idea of the degrading superstitions, the debasing idolatry of
Popery, there is nothing like _witnessing_ these things in a country
such as Spain, where the Roman Catholic religion appears to be of a
grosser type than it is in Protestant countries. Our last remaining
tract was slipped into the hand of a worshipper, kneeling upon a stone
step before an altar.
Besides these two Cathedrals, Saragossa contains many curious old
Moorish houses and ancient monuments, including the Aljaferia, now a
fort, but formerly a Moorish palace. As we walked through the streets,
almost every one turned round to have a good look at us as strangers;
and occasionally some children followed close behind, desiring to have a
thorough gaze at the walking curiosities from a foreign country.
In the evening, Mr. Mueller preached again at Mr. Gulick's Church, and on
the following morning (Dec. 31st) we rose at half-past 4, in order to
start early for Madrid. The journey was extremely tedious, and, after
stopping at every one of the 35 stations, in the evening, at 10 o'clock,
we reached our destination, where Mr. Fenn (an English missionary) was
kindly waiting to receive and to conduct us to the Fonda Peninsular,
near the Puerta del Sol, about two miles from the station. The next
morning (Jan. 1st, 1879), at 10 o'clock, a procession passed along the
street consisting of boys carrying lighted tapers; soldiers, priests,
and men bore a large figure of the Virgin, robed in crimson satin, with
a crown upon her head; whilst a small image of the Saviour was carried
immediately _behind_ it. The men in this procession were bareheaded, and
all the passers-by took off their hats.
In the evening, at a coffee meeting at Chamberi, Mr. Mueller addressed a
gathering of Spanish Christians, with translation by Mr. Fenn. On the
afternoon of Jan. 2nd, we attended a meeting of Christian Workers, to
whom my husband gave a short address, and in the evening he preached at
Chamberi. At a gospel service held the following Sunday morning at
Chamberi, he preached again; spoke in German in the afternoon at Pastor
Fliedner's Church, and in the evening preached at Chamberi a second
time, with translation into Spanish. The next day a meeting of school
teachers was held at Mr. Fenn's house, where Mr. Mueller gave them a
short address, and in the evening he attended the first of a series of
prayer meetings at Mr. Fliedner's Church.
On Jan. 7th, we inspected the five schools--three at Chamberi, and two
in another part of Madrid--which are supported by the funds of the
Scriptural Knowledge Institution, and are under the care and
superintendence of Mr. and Mrs. Fenn, where it was gratifying to find
the dear children (contrary to custom, as their Christmas holidays were
scarcely over) assembled in considerable numbers to see the strangers
from England, whose presence seemed to afford them great delight. After
visiting the three Chamberi schools, which are admirably conducted, all
the children formed one assembly in the Chapel, where Mr. Mueller
addressed them for about twenty minutes, with translation by Mr. Fenn.
He spoke also to the children of the two other schools. Sheets of paper,
containing texts and short addresses, beautifully written, were
presented to us by the pupils at Chamberi. On our way back to the hotel,
we passed an open piece of ground, where, several years ago, large
quantities of human bones were disinterred, the remains of victims of
the Inquisition, about 130 Protestants having been burned alive there in
former times, as an "auto da fe," by their enemies, the Papists. Here
the hand of a young girl was found, with a large nail driven through it;
tresses of long hair were discovered, and other revolting evidences were
brought to light of the cruelties that had been perpetrated. We visited
the Plaza Mayor also, a large Square in _Old_ Madrid, where, centuries
ago, Jews, Protestants, and criminals, all dressed in hideous garments,
and high, pointed caps, were brought before their judges; by whom, after
sentence of death had been pronounced, they were sent to the spot above
mentioned, near Chamberi, and there burned alive.
On the evening of Jan. 9th, at a united prayer meeting of the
Evangelical Alliance, Mr. Mueller gave an address on prayer, and spoke at
Chamberi also, at a prayer meeting the next evening. On the 11th, we
visited Mr. and Mrs. Fenn's interesting Orphan Institution; on the
morning of Sunday, the 12th, my husband preached at Chamberi, and in the
evening addressed a large English congregation at a Hall connected with
the residence of the Presbyterian minister. This Hall, and the premises
connected with it, at one time formed a portion of the Spanish
Inquisition.
On the afternoon of Monday, Jan. 13th, at a quarter before 5, we left
Madrid for Bayonne, and at 7 reached the Escurial--both palace and
monastery in one; which, on account of the lateness of the hour, could
be seen very indistinctly. We passed Avila also, a town enclosed by
ancient granite walls 800 years old, which has 86 towers and gates, and
is considered the finest specimen of a walled town in Europe. Valladolid
was reached at midnight; and soon after 6, on the 14th, as the day began
to dawn, we arrived at Vitoria, where the mountainous, picturesque
character of the country formed an entire contrast to the plain on which
Madrid is situated. For many miles we travelled through the Passes at
the western extremity of the Pyrenees, and went through tunnel after
tunnel, until, at 10.15, the train drew up at San Sebastian, a town on
the Bay of Biscay, besieged by the British army under Wellington in
1813; where numbers of English soldiers, who fell during the war on the
Peninsula, lie interred. The last stations in Spain were Irun and
Hendaya; and, after travelling close to the Bay of Biscay, where great
rolling waves were dashing in upon the shore, at half past 1 p.m. we
reached Bayonne.
On the afternoon of Jan. 15th, at a little meeting held at the house of
Monsieur Nogaret, pastor of the Reformed Church, Mr. Mueller spoke in
French for three quarters of an hour; and afterwards we walked to the
fortifications, from which the district between Bayonne and the frontier
could be seen--a locality memorable as the scene of the struggle between
Wellington and Soult in the year 1813. On the 17th we went to Biarritz,
a beautiful watering place on the Bay of Biscay, six miles from Bayonne,
where the rocky coast lies open to the full sweep of rollers from the
Bay. There, at 2 o'clock, in a large salon of the Hotel de France, Mr.
Mueller held a meeting for the English, of whom he addressed a
considerable number, for an hour. At half past 3 we returned to Bayonne,
and at 5.20 left by rail for Pau in the Pyrenees. There, on the
following Sunday (Jan. 19th), my husband preached morning and afternoon
in English at the Presbyterian Church, to large congregations, with much
help from the Lord. On the evening of the 20th, he conducted a French
service at Le Temple, and preached the following morning in German at
the Presbyterian Church. He held English meetings also at this Church
every morning (except Saturday) throughout the week.
Pau is famous for its mild, genial climate, its beautiful scenery, and
for being much resorted to by visitors--especially the English--of whom,
during our stay, there were about 2,000 in the place. The Chateau of
Henry 4th is joined by three bridges to the town. On the morning of
Sunday, Jan. 26th, Mr. Mueller preached a farewell sermon at the
Presbyterian Church and held a French meeting in the evening for the
working classes, at a large Hall.
On the 27th, we left Pau for Bordeaux, about 150 miles distant, where,
at the Chapelle Evangelique, he held two French meetings. An address was
also given by him at a Hall belonging to the "Union Chretienne de jeunes
gens," and on the 29th, we went to the Asylums of La Force, of which the
late Mr. John Bost was the Founder and Director. After a journey of 70
miles we reached our destination, and in the afternoon accompanied Mr.
Bost in a small omnibus belonging to the Institution, to visit his
Asylums, which are situated at some little distance from each other.
They are eight in number. "La Famille Evangelique is for Orphan girls of
all ages. Bethesda is an asylum for girls infirm or incurable, blind, or
threatened with blindness, idiot, imbecile, or of feeble intellect.
Ebenezer is an asylum for epileptic girls. Siloam is for boys infirm or
incurable, blind or threatened with blindness. Bethel is an asylum for
epileptic boys. Le Repos is for invalid governesses, infirm school
mistresses, widows or spinsters who are ill or without resources. La
Retraite is for servants, widows or spinsters, who are ill, infirm, or
without means of support, and afflicted with incurable diseases; and La
Misericorde is for idiot girls who have lost all intelligence; also for
epileptics, who are idiot and infirm." After we had inspected these
deeply interesting, and most Christ-like Institutions, a very large
gathering of the inmates who were well enough to attend, assembled at
"La Famille," where Mr. Mueller addressed them for three quarters of an
hour; for though the community is so afflicted as a _whole_, a meeting
was hailed by them with delight, many of the patients being intelligent,
and some of the epileptics even, persons of sound mind, when not
suffering from their dreadful fits. The next day, at half past 2,
another service was held at "Le Temple" (the Church of the Institution)
where upwards of 400 individuals assembled; and as Mr. Bost would not
hear of a translation--because, said he, "Monsieur Mueller, est
admirable"--my husband addressed this large company for an hour and a
quarter in French. Afterwards we drank tea at "La Famille," and returned
by railway in the evening to Bordeaux. [Since our visit to these
Asylums, their beloved Founder and Director, Mr. Bost, has departed to
be with Christ. "Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord; they rest
from their labours and their works do follow them."] On the afternoon of
Jan. 31st, at the Chapelle Evangelique, Mr. Mueller held his fourth and
last meeting in the city, and at 6.50 we left by the night express for
Cannes. Toulouse was reached in the middle of the night; the next
morning we stopped at Marseilles, and proceeded along the coast of the
Mediterranean, until (after a journey of 480 miles) at a quarter to 1
p.m. we arrived at Cannes.
There, on Sunday, Feb. 2nd, Mr. Mueller preached in the morning at the
German, and in the afternoon at the Presbyterian, Church; gave an
address on the 4th, at the Eglise Evangelique, held another meeting at
the German Church the following afternoon, and continued his labours
every day until the 12th, when he spoke in French at the Eglise de la
Redemption, in the evening. On the 13th, he preached at the Presbyterian
Church, and on the 14th gave a farewell address in English at the Eglise
de la Redemption.
During our stay at Cannes, we visited "Les Orangers"--large plantations
of orange and lemon trees, laden with ripe fruit--and greatly enjoyed
the climate of that delightful place.
On Feb. 15th we left Cannes, and, just before our departure, received a
little parcel, containing an ivory paper-cutter, with a slip of paper on
which these words were written--"For dear Mr. Mueller from one of his
former Orphans, and wishing both Mr. and Mrs. Mueller, God speed." At
half-past 2 we arrived at Nice, where, on the following afternoon
(Sunday) my husband preached in English at the Presbyterian Church, held
a meeting in the evening at the Vaudois Church, and continued to conduct
services in English, French, or German during the remainder of our stay,
including a meeting at the Presbyterian Church on the 26th, when he
preached in English, to a large congregation on the second coming of
Christ. Whilst we were at Nice, the whole town was in a state of
excitement from the Carnival, for which that place is noted. During our
walks, to and from the meetings, we met troops of individuals in masks,
dressed in extraordinary costumes, who danced along the streets, and
made merry with anybody and everybody who happened to come across them;
but by promptly branching off into back streets, _we_ (happily) escaped
their notice altogether. The popular idea seems to be that, just before
the austerities of Lent commence, a season of extravagance, folly, and
amusement is particularly appropriate. That children and young people
should be tempted to indulge in such diversions, is not perhaps
surprising; but how persons of mature age can take delight in making
such _fools_ of themselves, is really most astonishing. We heard a
Christian gentleman from London lamenting greatly that the English
too--Protestants--who might be expected to set a good example to their
Catholic neighbours, were amongst the foremost in these amusements.
On Feb. 21st, we visited Monaco, one of the most beautiful spots along
the whole coast of the Mediterranean. It is notorious, however, for its
gambling saloons, which lead many who frequent them both to temporal and
eternal ruin. Suicide was said to be a common thing also amongst the
votaries of those gaming tables.
On March 1st we left for Mentone, 24 miles from Nice, where Mr. Mueller
preached at the Hall of the Free Church of Scotland, at the Eglise
Francaise, and at the German Church, to large congregations; and
continued to hold meetings daily as long as we remained. As on Sunday
mornings the little Hall of the Free Church was crowded, its doors and
windows were left open; several persons therefore sat outside in the
balcony, on chairs, and amongst the number was Mr. Spurgeon, who
attended three meetings. Whilst at Mentone, we had the pleasure of
seeing and driving out with him occasionally. One afternoon, the Turin
road leading to Castiglione, was selected for our route, where, whilst
slowly winding up hill in an open carriage, surrounded by magnificent
scenery, Mr. Spurgeon said:--"When in the midst of landscapes such as
these, from the crown of my head to the sole of my foot, I feel as
though I could burst out into one song of praise."
On the morning of March 11th, at the Free Church Hall, my husband gave a
farewell address. At 3.50 that afternoon we left Mentone for Ventimiglia
on the Italian frontier, and proceeded afterwards to Bella Vista,
Bordighera, the residence of Mrs. Boyce, two miles distant from the
station. In the evening Mr. Mueller preached at a small church in
Bordighera (built by Mrs. Boyce) with translation into Italian by Signor
Malan, a young Italian pastor. The congregation consisted of the
children belonging to Mrs. Boyce's schools, their teachers, and some
country people from the neighbourhood, most of whom were Roman
Catholics. This little church at Bordighera was then the only centre of
real Christian influence throughout a very extensive district, as there
were no other Italian _Protestant_ services between Bordighera and
Genoa. On the following morning, we visited Mrs. Boyce's schools, and at
half past two, Mr. Mueller held a drawing-room meeting for English
residents and visitors, at Viletta Aurelia, where, for upwards of an
hour he addressed a large company of gentlemen and ladies. On March 13th
we accompanied Mrs. Boyce in a carriage to San Remo, on the coast of the
Mediterranean, nine miles distant; and there, in the large drawing-rooms
of Villa Theresa, at 2 o'clock; he held a meeting for the English also,
which was crowded with gentlemen and ladies. He spoke with great power;
the hearers were all attention, and one lady said afterwards--"I was
never so much interested in my whole life." This meeting was an
important one, as many present were always under ritualistic teaching,
and never heard the pure gospel preached. In the evening, at half-past
6, we left San Remo by express--reached Genoa at 11, and the next day at
1.10 p.m. set off for Pisa, when our route through Spezzia and near
Carrara extended along the coast of the Mediterranean, through scenery
of the most beautiful description. At 7 o'clock we arrived at Pisa, and
the next morning, before our departure for Florence, saw the exterior of
its celebrated leaning tower, 180 feet high, and 13 feet out of the
perpendicular, built in the year 1174, by Bonanno of Pisa.
As our object was to reach Florence, we did not remain either at Genoa
or at Pisa, but simply passed through those cities on the way. At noon,
therefore, on March 15th, our journey was continued; and at 3 in the
afternoon we arrived at Florence, where, at the station, we were
received by some Christian friends, with--"A warm welcome in the
Master's name." The next day (Sunday) we attended a meeting for the
breaking of bread at a Hall in Via San Spirito, which, with an ante-room
adjoining it, was crowded. There, Mr. Mueller spoke for nearly an hour,
with Italian translation by Signor Rossetti; and in the evening,
preached at the Vaudois Church. During our stay at Florence he held a
number of other meetings also, including services at two Italian
Churches--one in Via Palazuolo, and the other in Via dei Benci--a
meeting at the Chapel of Dr. Comandi's Asilo in Via Aretina, an English
service at the Presbyterian Church, a meeting at the French Swiss
Church, with Italian translation, a service at the Methodist Episcopal
Church in English with Italian translation, and a drawing-room meeting
at Dr. Young's, where he addressed the students of the Theological
Seminary, their professors, several pastors, and a number of gentlemen
and ladies. He held a second drawing-room meeting also at Dr. Young's,
and had a Bible reading at the house of the Presbyterian minister. On
most of these occasions, there were large, attentive audiences. A few
days after the service at the Italian Church in Via dei Benci, a
gentleman said--"God be praised for the glorious meeting you had. I was
there, and enjoyed very much your powerful testimony." During our stay
at Florence, we looked with interest at the exterior of the prison where
Francesco and Rosa Madai were confined, and had a good view of the city
and neighbourhood from an elevated spot called the Piazza Michel Angelo.
On the morning of Wednesday, the 6th of March, we left Florence for
Rome, and arrived there in the afternoon at a quarter before 5. The next
morning at a prayer meeting in Via San Nicola da Tolentino, Mr. Mueller
gave his first address in Rome. On the 28th, he held a meeting for
Christian Workers in Via delle Coppelle; spoke at the Brethren's Hall at
a meeting for the breaking of bread on Sunday morning, the 30th, and
preached in the evening at Mr. Wall's Chapel. On the 31st he conducted a
service at the Oratorio Evangelico, and subsequently preached at various
places of worship including the Tempio Evangelico, the Presbyterian
Church, the Waldensian Church, the Sala Cristiana, the American Baptist
Chapel, the Italian Free Church, a Hall in Via della Scrofa connected
with the Tempio Evangelico (where a service for Italian soldiers was
held), the Italian Free Church, and the Wesleyan Chapel.