7 ozs., best rose water 1 quart, bergamot oil 14 drachms, Turkish rose
oil 5½ drachms.
Melt in a porcelain dish in the water-bath, first the spermaceti
and wax, then add the almond oil, and when the whole forms a liquid
allow the previously warmed rose water to flow in slowly, stirring
constantly. Now take the dish from the water-bath, and with a large
spoon of silver or horn stir the mass until it begins to thicken. Then
stir in the perfume and fill the finished cold cream in boxes.
_Vaseline cold cream._--White vaseline 2 lbs., fat-almond oil 1 lb.,
white beeswax 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, French rose-geranium
oil and Turkish rose oil each 2½ drachms.
Proceed (without the rose water) as directed for cold cream.
_Glycerin cream._--Fat-almond oil 3 lbs., white beeswax and spermaceti
each 7 ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 1 lb., bergamot oil
1 oz., clove oil, Turkish rose oil, and French geranium oil each 2½
drachms. Proceed as above.
_Crême de concombre._--Fat-almond oil 8 ozs., white beeswax 10 drachms,
spermaceti 12 drachms, freshly-expressed cucumber juice 7 ozs.,
volatile cucumber oil 2½ drachms, bergamot oil 1½ drachms.
Grate the cucumbers on a grater, place the grated mass upon a clean
white cloth, and gently express the juice so that no mucus passes
through the cloth. The cucumber juice is slightly warmed, the rest of
the process being the same as with cold cream.
_Glycerin gelée._--Gum-tragacanth 5½ drachms, swelled up in rose water
10½ ozs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 7 ozs., honey 3½ ozs.,
_Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1¾ ozs.
Convert the gum tragacanth to a coarse powder, bring the powder into
a capacious glass flask, pour the rose water upon it, and, after
corking the flask, let it stand for about 3 days, shaking it frequently
and vigorously. Then strain the swelled gum tragacanth, which now
represents a thick fluid, through a white cloth or fine-meshed sieve
into a dish, and after adding the glycerin, honey, and _Extrait rose_,
mix the whole intimately, and fill the tubes or glasses with the
finished preparation. It is an approved remedy for chapped skin.
_Glycerin jelly._--Glycerin 1 lb., fat-almond oil 3 lbs., soap 2½ ozs.,
orange-peel oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms.
Mix the soap with the glycerin, gradually add the oil, and finally the
perfume.
_Cream of roses._--Gum tragacanth 25 grains, glycerin 1 oz., alcohol
½ oz., water 6½ ozs., boric acid 40 grains, spirits of lavender and
bergamot each 1 oz.
_Boroglycerin cream._--Dissolve 1 part of boric acid in 24 parts of
glycerin; add to this solution 5 parts of lanolin and 70 parts of
petrolatum. This preparation is said to be excellent for chapped hands,
lips, etc.
_Récamier cream._--The following formula is said to produce something
quite similar to this preparation: zinc oxide 4 ozs., glycerin 13 fluid
drachms, water 5 fluid drachms, spirit of rose (4 drachms to 1 pint) 1
fluid drachm.
_Preparations for chapped hands._--I. Quince seed 2 ozs., rose water 16
ozs., glycerin 32 ozs., tincture of benzoin 2 ozs. Macerate the quince
seeds in the rose water 24 hours, strain, and add the glycerin and
benzoin.
II. Balsam of Peru 1 drachm, purified wool fat 1 oz. Perfume to suit.
III. Menthol 1.5 parts, salol 2, olive oil 2, lanolin 50. Apply twice
daily. The pain soon ceases, the skin softens and the chaps quickly
disappear.
IV. Quince seed 1½ drachms, boric acid 4 grains, carbolic acid 10
grains, glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 3 ozs., cologne 2 ozs., oil of
lavender 20 drops, glycerite of starch 2 ozs., water sufficient to make
1 pint. Dissolve the boric acid in 8 ozs. of water, macerate the quince
seed in the solution for three hours and then press through a straining
cloth, add the glycerin, carbolic acid and glycerite of starch and mix
thoroughly. Mix the cologne and oil of lavender with the alcohol, add
the solution to the mucilage and mix the whole well.
_Wash for the hands.-_-Tannin 8 grains, glycerin 5 drachms, rose water
4 ozs. Mix and filter. The hands should be washed with soap in soft
water, or water to which a little borax has been added, thoroughly
dried and then well rubbed with the lotion.
_Nail-powder._--The following preparation serves for the purpose of
imparting smoothness and lustre to the finger nails. For use apply some
of the powder to a piece of soft glove-leather and rub the nails until
they show lustre.
Stannic oxide (putty powder) 2 lbs., carmine 5½ drachms, oils of
bergamot and lavender each 2½ drachms. Rub the stannic oxide as fine as
possible and mix it in the mortar with the other ingredients.
_Lip-salve_ No. 1.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 24 or 30, 8 ozs., best carmine
nacarat 2½ drachms.
Convert the carmine to a fine powder and thoroughly triturate it with
the _Pomm. Rose_ in a porcelain mortar until no more specks of carmine
are perceptible. By this trituration the salve becomes very soft
and delicate, so that it can be conveniently pressed into the small
boxes. A pleasing lustre is then imparted to the surface of the salve
by carefully moving each box to and fro over the flame of an alcohol
lamp. It may here be remarked that carmine nacarat is the best coloring
matter for lip-salve, it being far more resistant than, for instance,
alkannin, which, in contact with the skin, readily acquires a bluish
coloration.
If lip-salve of a more solid consistency is desired, the object may be
attained by the addition of a few drachms of white beeswax. However,
in this case, the pomade must be melted in a water-bath, or the pomade
and wax melted together. Then add the carmine, stir until cold, fill
into boxes and make the surface lustrous over an alcohol flame.
_Lip-salve_ No. 2.--_Pomm. Rose_ No. 6 or 12, 10½ ozs., _Huile antique
rose_ No. 6 or 12, 14 drachms, white beeswax 5½ drachms, carmine
nacarat 2¾ drachms.
Melt the wax in a porcelain or enamelled vessel, then add, first, the
oil, combine it with the wax, then add the pomade and finally the
carmine. When all this is intimately mixed, stir it until cold. The
further process is the same as given for No. 1.
PAINTS.--The object of paints is to hide blemishes of the skin and to
impart to it a different color--as a rule a youthful one--from that
bestowed by nature, though under certain conditions, especially in the
case of actors, they are also employed for the purpose of changing the
expression of the face. A distinction is made between pulverulent,
solid, liquid and fat paints.
PULVERULENT PAINTS (POWDERS).--The simplest powder is wheat starch.
It forms a dull white powder with a bluish lustre, and is perfectly
harmless. Powdered talc, prepared in the manner previously described
(p. 330), is also much used for powder. By mixing 100 parts of prepared
talc, while still moist, with 12 parts of spermaceti, previously rubbed
to a moist powder with some rectified alcohol, and drying at a moderate
heat, a product known in commerce as "Blanc fard," or "Blanc français,"
is obtained.
Talc by itself not furnishing a beautiful white, it is mixed, according
to circumstances, with _subnitrate of bismuth_ (_flake-white_),
_magnesia_, _chalk_ or _zinc-white_. _White lead_, though frequently
used, cannot be recommended, it being injurious to health. Subnitrate
of bismuth furnishes the best white; it has, however, the disadvantage
of turning brown in air containing sulphuretted hydrogen. Zinc-white
does not have this defect, but lacks the lustre and pure white color.
Customary mixtures for powders are as follows:--
I. Carbonate of magnesia and wheat starch each 5 parts, prepared talc
15, zinc-white 10.
II. Carbonate of magnesia and chalk each 5 parts, prepared talc 15,
subnitrate of bismuth 20.
The powders are prepared in three colors: white, rose-color and
yellowish. To heighten the white color the powder is mixed with about
⅓ of one per cent. of ultra-marine. For rose color some carmine is
used, and for coloring yellowish some carmine and yellow ochre.
A powder for coloring more intensely red is prepared as follows: Mix
100 parts of prepared talc with 2.5 or more parts of carmine, according
to the desired shade of color. The carmine is triturated by itself and
in small portions added to the talc. It should not be dissolved, as
given in many directions, in ammonia, it losing thereby its fiery red.
To obtain an especially delicate powder, the finished article should be
carefully bolted through silk.
SOLID PAINTS.--Solid paints may be prepared from the above-mentioned
powders by stirring them to a paste with thin gum solution.
_Ordinary red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1 oz.,
gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and
gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, best alcohol 1
oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, distilled water as much
as required.
_Fine red paint_ (_rouge_).--Prepared talc 2 lbs., carmine 1½ ozs.,
gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared from distilled water 3½ ozs. and
gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_
No. 1, 1 oz., spirits of sal ammoniac ½ tablespoonful, rose water as
much as required.
_White paint._--Prepared talc 2 lbs., gum-tragacanth mucilage prepared
from distilled water 3½ ozs. and gum-tragacanth 2¼ drachms, best olive
oil 5½ drachms, _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 1 oz., rose water as much as
required.
The above-mentioned paints may be filled in small porcelain boxes,
which must, however, be hermetically closed to prevent drying out. To
obviate the latter, the paints may be mixed with glycerin, which must,
however, be carefully done so that the mass does not become liquid; too
much glycerin may also make the paint blue.
Regarding the preparation of these paints, the following may be
said: The prepared talc is passed through a fine-meshed sieve into a
porcelain dish. The carmine is rubbed fine in a porcelain mortar and
then triturated with water[25] in the same mortar until no more specks
of carmine are visible. Now add the dissolved carmine to the talc in
the porcelain dish, stir thoroughly with a horn or wooden spoon, and
gradually add sufficient rose water to form a dough-like mass. Then add
to this mass about 1¾ ozs. of gum-tragacanth mucilage, prepared
3 or 4 days before from 2¼ drachms of pulverized gum-tragacanth and
3½ ozs. of water, work the mass thoroughly through, and add the 5½
drachms of best olive oil. The oil being also incorporated with the
mass, mix in the 1 oz. of _Extrait rose_ or alcohol, and again work the
mass thoroughly through, when the paint is ready to be brought upon
porcelain plates.
[25] For fine preparations, rose water is used; for ordinary,
distilled water.
The procedure is now as follows: By means of a spoon bring a quantity
of the paint, about the size of three hazelnuts upon the centre of a
porcelain plate, spread it out uniformly to the edge of the plate by
knocking the latter against the table, and in the same manner cover
6 or 8 plates. These are the test-plates. Tie a piece of paper over
the dish containing the rest of the paint and set it aside. Place the
plates coated with paint in a dry place to dry, but do not expose them
to sunlight, nor should soaps be kept in the room, as in both cases the
paint would become blue. After 12 to 18 hours the paint upon the plates
will be dry, and now comes the most difficult part of the manipulation.
With a small horn-knife or the sharp edge of a playing card scrape off
very carefully and uniformly a small quantity from the surface of the
paint, proceeding from the edges towards the centre of the plate. Then,
to see whether the paint adheres firmly to the plate, knock the edge of
the latter quite vigorously against the table. If it adheres firmly,
cover the entire plate with a piece of watered silk, catch the ends of
the latter beneath the plate with the left hand, and, with the palm of
the right, run quite hard over the silk. By this means the moiré of the
silk is imprinted upon the paint, giving it a nice appearance. Proceed
in the same manner with the six or eight test-plates, and if the paint
upon them bears the manipulation without dropping off, work up the
rest of the paint in the dish. If, however, the paint does not adhere
to the plates, it is proof of it containing not enough gum-tragacanth.
In this case add some of the mucilage to the paint in the dish, work
it thoroughly through, and proceed in the manner described. Packing,
labelling, etc., being subject to fashion, need not here be described,
but as the charm of novelty contributes much to the sale of an article,
the manufacturer should make it his business to invent new attractive
designs, without too much imitating others.
_Red stick-paint_ (_Stick rouge_).--Prepared talc 1 lb., carmine
5½ drachms, olive oil 2¾ drachms, alcohol 8¼ drachms, spirit of
sal ammoniac a good teaspoonful, distilled water and gum-tragacanth
mucilage as much as required.
The mode of preparation is the same as for solid paints, except that in
order to give the rouge more consistency, less water and gum-tragacanth
mucilage are to be used.
For moulding the rouge into sticks, round tin moulds about 2½ inches
long and of the thickness of a finger are used. To facilitate the
removal of the rouge sticks, the inside of the moulds is rubbed with
a rag moistened with olive oil and wrapped around a thin stick of
wood. After removing the sticks from the mould, they are allowed to
dry superficially, and next wrapped first in tissue paper and then in
tinfoil, one end, however, being left free from paper and tinfoil. They
are finally labelled and packed in paste-board boxes.
_White stick paint_ is prepared in the same manner as stick rouge, with
the exception that the carmine is omitted.
_Rouge en feuilles._--Prepared talc 1¾ ozs., carmine 2¾ drachms,
olive oil 10 to 15 drops, spirits of sal ammoniac about 50 drops, pure
alcohol 5¼ ozs., distilled water or rose water 8 ozs., gum-tragacanth
mucilage 1¾ ozs.
The carmine is first rubbed fine, then the olive oil, spirits of sal
ammoniac, and gum-tragacanth mucilage are successively thoroughly
triturated with the carmine, next the talc is added, then the water,
and finally the alcohol. Mix all intimately in a mortar with the
pestle. The whole forms a fluid which, by means of a fine brush, is
applied to a square piece of white card board, so that a circular
disk the size of a silver dollar lies in the centre of the paper. The
application of the rouge to the paper has to be repeated three or
four times, allowing one layer to dry before applying the next. When
the last layer is dry, the rouge is smoothed by laying a piece of
tissue paper upon it and running the broad side of a paper cutter over
the tissue paper. In packing, a piece of tissue is laid between the
separate pieces.
LIQUID PAINTS. Liquid paints are chiefly used by actors.
_Liquid rouge._--Rose water 1½ quarts, carmine 1¾ ozs., _Extrait
rose_ No. 1, 1 lb.
Heat the rose water, without allowing it to boil, in a glazed
earthenware vessel, add the carmine, previously rubbed fine, to the hot
rose water, and stir the fluid with a clean wooden spatula until the
carmine is completely divided. Then take the vessel from the fire and
add a tablespoonful of spirits of sal ammoniac. The latter imparts to
the rouge a brighter red, but not too much of it should be used, as
otherwise the rouge acquires a bluish shade, and besides the odor of
the spirits of sal ammoniac is not exactly agreeable. When the rouge
is cold add 1 lb. of _Extrait de rose_, mix the whole intimately, and
filter through white filtering paper into a clean glass bottle. The
rouge has to be protected from sunlight.
_White liquid paint._--Fine zinc-white 3 lbs., rose water or orange
water 3½ quarts.
In a clean enamelled vessel boil the zinc-white in 5 quarts of
distilled water, stirring constantly, until about 3 quarts of the
water are evaporated. Then take the vessel from the fire and allow the
fluid to stand quietly for ½ hour. Then carefully decant off the
supernatant water, pour the 3½ quarts of rose water or orange water
upon the zinc-white, stir thoroughly, and fill in bottles.
_Fat paints._--Fat paints of various colors and shades are prepared
chiefly for the use of actors. The ground mass consists of _Blanc
fard_ or _Blanc français_, or simply of pulverized talc bolted through
silk. It is colored, according to the color desired, with carmine,
eosin, sienna, lamp black, or aniline colors, and incorporated in the
proportion of 1½ ground mass to 1 fatty mass, with the fatty mass
consisting of white wax 3 parts and olive oil 7 parts; _or_ paraffin
1½ parts and white vaseline 2 parts. The fatty mass is melted in the
water-bath, the powder stirred in, and after allowing the mixture to
cool somewhat, it is perfumed and poured into tin tubes previously
slightly warmed.
Besides the above-mentioned _fat paints in sticks_, there are also _fat
paints in porcelain boxes_, which are of a somewhat softer consistency.
They are prepared in white, rose color, and yellowish. A few receipts
for them are as follows:--
_Crême de Lys._--Melt 3½ ozs. of spermaceti and 7 ozs. of white wax in
the water-bath, and after taking the mass from the fire mix it with
3⅕ lbs. of subnitrate of bismuth, previously rubbed fine, with
1⅘ lbs. of almond oil. Then allow to cool somewhat, next stir until
entirely cold, and perfume.
_Crême de rose._--Spermaceti 3½ ozs., white wax 7 ozs., _Blanc
Français_ 3⅕ lbs., carmine 8¼ drachms, almond oil 1-4/5 lbs.
Proceed as directed for _crême de lys_.
INDEX.
Abelmosk or musk-seed tincture, 230, 231
Absorption or enfleurage, process of, 60-65
Acacia oil, 87
Acetic amyl acetate or amyl acetate, 201
ethyl or ethyl acetate, 201-204
Acid number, 81
African and French geranium oils, 112, 113
Alcohol and sulphuric acid test, Hager's, 78
chloroform, and benzine, quantitative determination of adulterations
with, 72, 73
or spirit of wine, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71
Alcoholic perfumes, 219-255
Allspice, oil of, or pimento oil, 136
Almond bandoline, 305
meal, 329
milk, 327
oil (bitter), 87-93
adulterations of, 90-92
artificial, 89, 90
tincture, 234
paste, honey, 329
Alpine herb oil, 301
Ambergris, 31, 186-188
adulterations of, 188
tincture, 229
Ambrein or ambrin, 187
America and England, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214
American curled mint oil, 132
English, or Canadian castor, 185, 186
musk-rat, musk of the, 181, 182
oil of turpentine, 149
peppermint oil, 132, 133
American soap industry, consumption of citronella oil in the, 108
storax, 172
Amygdalin, 88
Amyl acetate or acetic amyl acetate, 201
valerate or valerianic ether, 214-216
Anethol, 111
Angelica oil, 92, 93
root tincture, 231
Animal kingdom, perfume-substances from the, 178-188
Anise-seed oil, 93, 94
Antiseptic gargle, 275
Apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower pomades, 223-225
for determining the percentage of volatile oil in a vegetable
substance, 40, 41
for distilling lemon oil, 118-120
for the absorption process, 62-64
for the distillation of volatile oil, 41-46
for the extraction of volatile oils, 48-57
for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227
Apple essence, 216
ether, 216
pomade, 289
Apricot essence, 216, 217
ether, 216
Aqua mellis, 255
Arabian physicians, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26
Arnica tooth-tincture, 276
Aromatic vinegar, 325
English, 325, 326
Artificial musk, 182, 183
perfume-materials, 189-218
Athens, luxurious use of ointments in, 22
Atomizers, 263
Atomizing, pine odor for, 265
Attar of roses or rose oil, 136-144
Austrian oil of turpentine, 148
Avicenna, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26
Balm oil, 96
Balm-oil tincture, 234
Balsam, Brazilian, 166
Carthagena, 166
fumigating, 265, 266
Peru, 159-166
pine oil, 149, 150
Tolu, 166-168
new variety of, 167, 168
white Indian, 172
Peru, 172
Peruvian, 160, 161
Balsams, 155, 156
and resins, 155-177
Balsamum Peruvianum, 159-166
Bandoline, almond, 305
rose, 305
Bandolines, 304, 305
Barenthin's application of Hübl's iodine method to volatile oils, 80
Bartholow's depilatory, 323
Bartlett, W. W., menthol pungent as prepared by, 260
Preston salt as prepared by, 260
Basil oil, 96
tincture, 234
Bayberry oil, or oil of bay leaves, 96, 97
Bay leaves, oil of, or bayberry oil, 96, 97
Bay rum, 312-314
formulæ for, 313, 314
Beard, Rogers's pomade for producing a, 294
Bear's grease, 285
pomade, 289
Beauty-patch or mouche, 28
Beef-marrow pomade, 294
Benzine, detection of, in volatile oil, 71, 72
Benzoic ether or ethyl benzoate, 204, 205
Benzoin, 157-159
amygdaloid, 157
determination of cinnamic acid in, 158, 159
flowers, 159
in tears, 157
lump, 157
pomade, 290
tincture, 229
treatment of fat oils with, 300, 301
varieties of, 158
Bergamot oil, 97, 98
tincture, 234
Betula lenta, oil from, 152
Beyer frères, apparatus for alcoholic extracts from flower
pomades, 223-225
for the preparation of tinctures, 226, 227
Birch oil, 152
Bismuth hair dye, 320
nitrate of, 335, 336
Bisulphide of carbon, 48
Black hair dyes, 321
tooth-powder, 280
wax pomade, 299
Blanc fard or blanc français, 335
Blondel, Dr., memoir on the star anise tree, by, 95
Blonde wax pomade, 299
Boettger's depilatory, 323
Boroglycerin cream, 333
Bouchardat and Lafont, conversion of oil of turpentine into lemon
oil by, 189, 190
Bouquet vaseline pomade, 296
Bouquets, 219, 240-245
Brazilian balsam, 166
Brilliantine, 305-308
formulas for, 307, 308
Brown hair dye, 321
wax pomade, 299, 300
Bulgaria, rose oil industry in, 137, 138
Burdock-root hair oil, 302
Butyric acid, preparation of, 205-207
ether, formation of, 207, 208
or ethyl butyrate, 205-210
Cajeput oil, 98, 99
Camomile oil, 99, 100
Camphor tooth-powder, 280
Canadian, English, or American castor, 185, 186
Canango oil, 154
tincture, 234
Caraway oil, 100, 101
Carbon, bisulphide of, 48
Carbonic acid, apparatus for developing a current of, 50-52
Carob or St. John's bread, 209
Carthagena balsam, 166
Carvene, 100
Carvol, 35, 100
Cassia oil, 103, 104
tincture, 235
value of, 104
Cassie, oil of, 87
Castor, 31
adulterations of, 186
Castoreum or castor, 185, 186
Castor oil, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68
pomade, 293
or castoreum, 185, 186
tincture, 229
Cedar oil, 101
tincture, 235
Ceylon cinnamon oil, 102, 103
Chalk, 336
Chamomile oil, 99, 100
Chapped hands, preparations for, 333, 334
Chassis, 61
Cherry essence, 217
ether, 216
laurel oil, 101, 102
tooth-paste, 278
non-fermenting, 278
Chloroform, alcohol, and benzine, quantitative determination of
adulterations with, 72, 73
detection of, in volatile oil, 71
Cineol, 123
Cinnamaldehyde, 103
quantitative determination of, 104-106
Cinnamic acid, determination of, in benzoin, 158, 159
Cinnamon leaves, oil of, and cinnamon-root oil, 104
oil tincture, 235
oils, 102-106
Cinnamon root oil and oil of cinnamon leaves, 104
Citrene, 35, 121
Citronella oil, 107, 108
tincture, 235
Citronellol, 107
Citron oil, 106, 107
Civet, 31, 184, 185
tincture, 228
Clove-oil tincture, 235
Cloves, oil of, 108-110
Cold cream, 331
creams and lip-salves, 331-335
Cologne water, 249-254
durability of volatile oils used for, 250, 251
preparation of, 249, 250
receipts for, 252-254
Coloring substances for dentifrices and mouth-waters, 272
for pomades, 286
Compound odors, 240-245
Copper hair dye, 322
nitroprusside of, test, 75-78
salts for dyeing the hair, 315, 316
Cortex thymiamatis, 168
Cosmetics, 324-342
and perfumeries in the Middle Ages, 26, 27
and perfumes in Italy, 26, 27
receipts for, in the writings of Arabian physicians, 26
Cream, boroglycerin, 333
cold, 331
glycerin, 332
of roses, 333
Récamier, 333
vaseline cold, 331
Crême de concombre, 332
de lys, 342
de rose, 342
Cumarin, 190-193
manufacture of, 192, 193
tincture, 232
Curled mint oil, 132
Currant essence, 217
Cymene, 121
Dandruff cures, 312
lotion, 312
Densdorf pomade, 290
Dentifrice, singular, used by the Roman ladies, 26
Dentifrices and mouth-waters, coloring substances for, 272
mouth-waters, etc., 272-283
Depilatories, 322, 323
use of in ancient Rome, 25, 26
Dioscorides's directions for making animal fats suitable for the
reception of perfumes, 24
for preparing rose ointment, 23, 24
"Medica materia," 23
Distillation of expressed oil, 39
of lemon oil, 118
of rose oil, 137, 138
of volatile oils, 39-48
ancient mode of, 24
Distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120
Double hair dyes, 321, 322
Dragendorff's test, 68, 69
Dry perfumes, 256-261
Dutch tonka bean, 191, 192
Dwarf pine oil, 149
East Indian geranium oil, 112
Eau Athénienne, 308
Eau d'Afrique, 322
de Botot (improved), 275
de Cologne, 249-254
durability of volatile oils for, 250, 251
hair tonic, 309
preparation of, 249, 250
receipts for, 252-254
solid perfume, 260
de lavande, 255
double, 255
de Lisbonne, 255
de quinine, 309, 310
(imitation), 310
de vie de lavande double ambrée, 255
dentifrice Botot, 274
Orientale, 274, 275
lustral (hair restorative), 310
Écuelle process for obtaining lemon oil, 117, 118
Egg oil, virtues of, 314
Egypt, ancient, paints used in, 18, 19
Egyptians, use of perfume-substances by the, for embalming the dead, 18
Elæoptene, 33
Emperor pomade, 292
Enfleurage or absorption, process of, 60-65
England and America, use and preparation of nitrous ether in, 212-214
use of perfumery in, 30
English aromatic vinegar, 325, 326
Canadian, or American castor, 185, 186
peppermint oil, 132, 133
tonka bean, 192
Esprit de menthe, 276
Ess-bouquet sachet powder, 259
solid perfume, 260
Essence à l'écuelle, or au zeste, 117
apple, 216
apricot, 216, 217
cherry, 217
currant, 217
de jasmin, 114
de lavande Montblanc, 115
de mirbane, 199
grape, 217
lemon, 217
melon, 217
of Portugal, 125
of the odor of Linden blossoms, 238
orange, 217
peach, 217
pear, 217
pine-apple, 217
plum, 217
raspberry, 218
strawberry, 218
Essences and vinegars, fumigating, 264-266
pastilles, powders, etc., for fumigating, 262-271
Essential or volatile oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31
Ester or ether number, 82
Ether, apple, 216
apricot, 216
cherry, 216
or ester number, 82
pear, 216
pine-apple, 216
strawberry, 216
Ethers, fruit, 200-218
Ethyl acetate, or acetic ethyl, 201-204
benzoate, or benzoic ether, 204, 205
butyrate, or butyric ether, 205-210
formate, or formic ethyl ether, 210, 211
nitrite, or nitrous ether, 211-214
Eucalyptene, 111
Eucalyptol, 111
Eucalyptus oil, 110, 111
tincture, 235
Eugenol, 103, 109
Expression of volatile oils, 36-39
Extract, concentrated flower, 245
patchouli, 233
spinach, 239
Extraction of volatile oils, 48-58
or maceration of flowers, 286, 287
Extracts, alcoholic, from flower pomades, apparatus for, 223-225
and tinctures, 225-237
Extrait acacia, 237
bouquet Eugenie, 241
Prince Albert, 243
Victoria, 242, 248
cassie, 237
chypre, 243, 244, 247
de violette de Parme, 239, 240
edelweiss, 240
ess-bouquet, 240, 241, 247
excelsior, 241
fleurs de Mai, 238
Frangipani, 241, 249
héliotrope, 237
ixora, 239, 248, 249
jacinthe, 237, 238
jasmin, 238
jockey club, 241, 242
jonquille, 238
kiss-me-quick, 243
lily of the valley, 238
magnolia, 238
maréchal, 244
May flowers, 238
millefleurs, 242
mogadore, 243
mousseline, 244
muguet, 238, 248
musk, 243
new-mown hay, 243, 247
Extract opopanax, 242
orange, 239
patchouli, 242
réséda, 240, 246
rose, 246
v. d. centifolie, 239
spring-flower, 241, 248
tubereuse, 240
violette, 239, 246
white rose, 239
ylang-ylang, 240, 246, 247
Extraits aux fleurs, 219, 237-240
d'odeurs, 219
triple concentrés, 244, 245
Face, painting the, practised by the Hebrew women, 19
Family pomade, 290, 291
vaseline pomade, 296
Farine d'amandes amères, 329
de noisette, 328
Fat mixtures for hair pomades, 288, 289
paints, 341, 342
Fats, animal, preparation of, for the reception of perfumes, 24
for pomades and hair oils, 284
protection of, against rancidity, 285
purification of, 285, 286
Federer's, C. F., test for peppermint oil, 135
Fennel oil, 111, 112
Filter, illustrated and described, 38, 39
Filtration of expressed oils, 37-39
Flake-white, 336
Florentine flasks, 46, 47
Florida water, 308, 309
Flower brilliantine, 306, 307
extract, concentrated, 245
fumigating essence, héliotrope, 264
hair oil, 301
pomades, 286, 287
extraction of, 221-225
Flowers for the production of volatile oils, localities best suited
for the cultivation of, 32, 33
maceration or extraction of, 286, 287
Formic ethyl ether, or ethyl formate, 210, 211
France, cultivation of the bitter orange in, 126
extravagant use of rouge in, 28, 29
golden age for toilet articles in, 27-29
introduction of the arts of the toilet into, 27
old process of maceration in, 59
Frangipani sachet powder, 258
Frankincense, in ancient times, 19-21
or olibanum, 176, 177
French and African geranium oils, 112, 113
oil of turpentine, 148
patchouli oil, 131
perfumers, ancient, privileges of, 29, 30
pomades (flower pomades),
fine, 286, 287
Fruit ethers, 200-218
Fuchsine, detection of alcohol by, 69
Fumigating agents, dry, objections to, 263, 264
balsam, 265, 266
essences and vinegars, 264-266
pastilles, powders, etc., 262-271
lacquer, 270, 271
mode of, 262, 263
object of, 262
paper, 268
pastilles, 268-270
ordinary black, 269
red, 269
powder, ordinary, 266, 267
violet, 267
powders, 266-268
prejudice against, 262
vinegar, 266
water, 266
Funnel, separatory, 47
Geraniol, 112
Geranium oil, East Indian, 112
Geranium oil, palmarosa oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112
tincture, 235
oils, French and African, 112, 113
German curled-mint oil, 132
German oil of turpentine, 148
peppermint oil, 132, 133
Germany, manufacture of rose oil in, from indigenous roses, 136
Glycerin cream, 332
for dentifrices, 273, 274
gelée, 332
hair tonic, 310
jelly, 332, 333
perfumed with fruit odor, 328
with rose odor, 328
Grape essence, 217
Greeks, practice of anointing the body by the, 21
Green camomile oil, 99
Guaiacum reaction, Hager's, 78-80
Gummi myrrha, 172-176
resina myrrha, 172-176
Gum-resins, 155, 156
Guy de Chanlios, receipts for cosmetics in the works of, 26
Hager's alcohol and sulphuric acid test, 78
Hager's guaiacum reaction, 78-80
tannin test, 69-71
Hair, copper salts for dyeing the, 315, 316
dye, bismuth, 320
black, 321
brown, 321
copper, 322
potassium permanganate, 320
requirements of a good, 314
tannin, 321, 322
Turkish, 316
walnut, 320
dyes, 314-322
double, 321, 322
silver, 321
single, 319, 320
use of, in ancient Rome, 25
green walnut shells for dyeing the, 318
henna for dyeing the, 317, 318
iron salts for dyeing the, 316
lead salts for dyeing the, 315
nitrate of silver for dyeing the, 315
oil, alpine herb, 301
burdock root, 302
Hair oil, cheap, 303, 304
fine, 302, 303
flower, 301
jasmine, 303
macassar, 302
mignonette, 302
neroli, 302
Peru, 302
Peruvian bark, 301, 302
philocome, 303
Portugal, 303
rose, 304
sultana, 304
tonka, 304
vanilla, 303
vaseline, 303
Victoria, 304
violet, 304
ylang-ylang, 303
oils, 300-304
and pomades, fats for, 284
peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the, 318
pomade, fine, 291
for promoting the growth of the, 291
pomades, 285-300
according to the German method, 288-295
coloring substances for, 286
fine French, 286, 287
foundations for, 288, 289
hair oils, and hair tonics, hair dyes and depilatories, 284-323
potassium permanganate for dyeing the, 316
pyrogallic acid for dyeing the, 316
stain, pyrogallic, 320
tonics, 308-314
Hands, chapped, preparations for, 333, 334
wash for the, 334
Hebrews, ancient, perfume-substances known to the, 19
Heliotrope pomade, 291, 292
sachet powder, 257
Heliotropin or piperonal, 193-195
tincture, 232
Henna-flower, use of the, for perfuming, 19
Henna for dyeing the hair, 317, 318
Herb pomade, 292
Herodotus on the mode of gaining olibanum, 19, 20
Heyl's distilling apparatus, 57, 58
extracting apparatus, 54-57
Historical notice of perfumery, 17-30
Hitchin and Mitchan lavender oil, 115
Honey almond paste, 329
water, 310
Hoppe's nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78
Horse fat, 284, 285
Hübl's iodine method, 80, 81
Hufeland's, Dr., tooth-powder, 280
tooth-soap, 282, 283
Huile antique à la rose, 301
au jasmin, 301
Huiles antiques, 301
Hydrogen, peroxide of, for bleaching the hair, 318
Ice pomade, 290
Indian balsam, white, 172
Infusion or maceration, process of, 58-60
Iodine method, Hübl's, 80, 81
test with, 74, 75
Iron salts for dyeing the hair, 316
Italy, perfumes and cosmetics in, 26, 27
Japanese peppermint oil, 132, 133
Jasmin, essence de, 114
Jasmine hair oil, 303
oil or oil of jessamine, 113, 114
pomade, 292
Jessamine, oil of, or jasmine oil, 113, 114
Jockey club sachet, 257
Juniper-berry tincture, 233
Juniper odor, 265
oil, 114
Kabardin musk, 179, 180
Kahol, 317
Karsi, 319
Kienoel, 149
Kohol, 319
Kopher, 19
Kremel's saponification test, 81, 82
Krinochrom, 322
Krummholz oil, 149
Kypros, 19
Lacquer, fumigating, 270, 271
Lait, d'amandes amères, 327
Lait de lys, 328
de rose, 326, 327
virginal, 326
Lanolin pomade, 292, 293
Latschenoel, 149
Lavande Montblanc, essence de, 115
Lavender odor solid perfume, 260
oil, 115, 116
adulterations of, 116
tincture, 235
Lead salts for dyeing the hair, 315
white, 336
Leather, perfumed, 30
Lebonah, 19-21
Lederin, 286
Lemon essence, 217
grass-oil tincture, 235
oil, 116-121
conversion of oil of turpentine into, 189, 190
tincture, 235
Licari oil, linaloë oil, 122
tincture, 235
Lilac oil, 121
Lily milk, 328
of the valley sachet powder, 258
vaseline pomade, 296
Limes, oil of, 121, 122
Linaloë oil, licari oil, 122
Lip-salve, 334, 335
Lip-salves and cold creams, 331-335
Liquid ambar, 172
paints, 340-342
rouge, 340, 341
storax, 168-171
Locock's lotion for the hair, 311
Lotion, dandruff, 312
Locock's, for the hair, 311
shampoo, 311
Lubah, 19-21
Lunar caustic for dyeing the hair, 315
Macassar hair oil, 302
pomade, 292
Mace oil, 124
Maceration or extraction of flowers, 286, 287
or infusion, process of, 58-60
Magnesia, 336
Mandarin oil, 125, 126
Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies," 27
Marjoram oils, 122, 123
Maumené's test, 82, 83
Meal, almond, 329
nut, 328
Meals and pastes, perfumed, 328-331
Melanogène, 322
Melon essence, 217
Menthol, 133
pungent, 260
Messina, yield of lemon oil in, 120
Methyl salicylate, 151
artificial production of, 152, 153
Mierzinski's formulæ for bay rum, 313, 314
Mignonette hair oil, 302
oil, 123
pomade, 293
vaseline pomade, 296
Milk, almond, 327
lily, 328
rose, 326, 327
virginal, 326
Millefleurs fumigating pastilles, 270
Mint, curled, oil of, 132
Mirbane, oil of, 199
Mitchan and Hitchin lavender oil, 115
Monfalcone's, D., distilling apparatus for lemon oil, 118-120
Moschus ex vesicis, 180
Moses, the holy oil prescribed by, 21
Mouche or beauty patch, 28
Mouth- and tooth-waters, 274-277
waters and dentifrices, coloring substances for, 272
dentifrices, etc., 272-283
Musk, 31, 178-184
adulterations of, 183, 184
artificial, 182, 183
fumigating pastilles, 269, 270
Musk-rat, American, musk of the, 181, 182
root or sumbul-root tincture, 231
sachet powder, 259
sac, how to open a, 180
sacs, illustrated and described, 178, 179
seed or abelmosk tincture, 230, 231
substitutes for, 181, 182
tincture, 228
Myristicin, 124
Myron, 21
Myrrh, 172-176
adulterations of, 175, 176
oil, 123, 124
tincture, 235
tincture, 230
tooth-tincture, 276
Myrrha electa, 173
in sortis, 173
vulgaris, 173
Myrrhin, 174
Myrrhol, 174
Myrtol, 123, 124
Nail-powder, 334
Neroli hair oil, 302
Neroli oil, adulterations of, 127, 128
or orange-flower oil, 126-129
tincture, 235
petale, 127
pomade, 293
vaseline pomade, 296
New-mown hay fumigating powder, 267, 268
sachet powder, 259
Nitrate of bismuth, 335, 336
of silver for dyeing the hair, 315
Nitrobenzol, 198-200
adulterations of, 199
Nitroprusside of copper test, 75-78
Nitrous ether, or ethyl nitrite, 211-214
Nut meal, 328
Nutmeg oils, 124, 125
Odontine, 275
or tooth-paste, 277, 278
paste, 278
Odor and taste, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67
Odors, compound, 240-245
Oil, castor, determination of, in volatile oil, 67, 68
fat, adulteration with, of volatile oil, 67, 68
the holy, prescribed by Moses, 21
volatile, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a
vegetable substance, 40, 41
for the distillation of, 41-46
Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86
separation of the, and water, 46, 47
testing the odor of, 66
the taste of, 67
Oils, fat, treatment of, with benzoin, 300, 301
oxygenated, behavior of, towards nitroprusside of copper, 76-78
perfuming of, 61, 62
volatile, 33-65
ancient mode of distilling, 24
apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57
characteristics of, 33, 34
concentrated, 35
detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83
distillation of, 39-48
division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80
expression of, 36-39
extraction of, 48-58
extra strong, 35
for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251
localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the
production of, 32, 33
modes of obtaining, 36-65
or essential, occurrence of, in plants, 31
patented, 35
principal divisions of, 34
solubility of, 33
storage of, 65
testing of, 66-86
the, used in perfumery, 87-154
Ointment makers, ancient, condition of, 24, 25
rose, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24
Ointments, directions for preparing, in ancient works, 23, 24
foreign, edict against, in Rome, 22
for the different parts of the body used by the Athenians, 22
Oleum abietes, 149
canadensis, 149, 150
amygdalæ amaræ, 87-93
anisi, 93, 94
anthemidis, 99, 100
anthos, 144, 145
cajeputi, 98, 99
carui, 100, 101
caryophylli, 108-110
cassiæ, 103, 104
cedri, 101
cinnamoni ceylonici, 102, 103
citri, 106, 107
eucalypti, 110, 111
australe, 110
florum aurantii, 126-129
fœniculi, 111, 112
gaultheriæ, 151-153
geranii, 112, 113
iridis, 129, 130
iva ranchusa, 150, 151
juniperi, 114
laurocerasi, 101, 102
lavandulæ, 115, 116
ligni rhodii, 145
sandali, 145
sassafras, 145-147
limettæ, 121, 122
limonis, 116-121
macidis, 124
menthæ crispæ, 132
piperitæ, 132-135
pulegii, 135, 136
myrthæ, 123, 134
naphæ, 126-129
neroli, 126-129
nucistæ æthereum, 124
petit grain, 129
pimenta, 136
pini, 149
pumilionis, 149
résédæ, 123
rosemarini, 144, 145
templinum, 149
unonæ, 153, 154
Olibanum in ancient times, 19-21
or frankincense, 176, 177
tincture, 230
Opiat liquide pour les dents, 280, 281
Opopanax, 176
oil, 125
tincture, 235
tincture, 230
Orange, bitter, localities for the cultivation of the, 126
essence, 217
flower oil, or neroli oil, 126-129
water, 128
fumigating powder, 267
peel oil, 125
sachet powder, 259
Oriental flower fumigating essence, 265
pomade, 293
Orris-root oil, 129, 130
liquid, 257
tincture, 235
tincture, 231
Orris stearoptene, 129
Paint, fine red, 337
ordinary red, 336, 337
red stick, 339
white, 337
liquid, 341
stick, 340
Paints, 335-342
fat, 341, 342
liquid, 340-342
preparation of, 337-339
pulverulent, 335, 336
solid, 336-340
use of, by the Roman ladies, 25
Palermo, yield of lemon oil in, 120
Palmarosa oil, geranium oil, Turkish geranium oil, 112
Paper, fumigating, 268
Paraffine, solid perfumes with, 259, 260
Paraguay, manufacture of petit-grain oil in, 129
Paris, annual sale of perfumery in, 29, 30
Paste, honey almond, 329
Pastes and meals, perfumed, 328-331
and powders for the teeth, 277-283
Pastilles, fumigating, 268-270
powders, essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271
Patchouli-camphor, 131
Patchouli extract, 233
leaves, 130, 131
oil, 130-132
tincture, 235
sachet powder, 258
Pate d'amandes au miel, 329
Peach essence, 217
kernels, use of, in the fabrication of bitter-almond oil, 88
Pear essence, 217
ether, 216
Penang patchouli oil, 131
Peppermint oil, adulterants of, 134, 135
oils, 132-136
American, English, and German, mode of distinguishing, 133, 134
Pepper, perfume-substance from, 194
Perfumed meals and pastes, 328-331
Perfume-materials, artificial, 189-218
for the manufacture of perfumery, 31-65
substances, consumption of, by the ancient Romans, 24
consumption of, by the early nations of the Orient, 17
from the animal kingdom, 178-188
Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages, 26, 27
Perfumer, the actual flower garden of the, 32
what the art of the, consists in, 219
Perfumers, French, ancient privileges of, 29, 30
Perfumery, annual sale of, in Paris, 29, 30
historical notice of, 17-30
perfume-substances for themanufacture of, 31-65
the volatile oils used in, 87-154
use of, in England, 30
Perfumes, alcoholic, 219-255
and cosmetics in Italy, 26, 27
dry, 256-261
preparation of animal fats for the reception of, 24
solid, with paraffine, 259, 260
Peroxide of hydrogen for bleaching the hair, 318
Peru balsam, 159-166
adulterants of, 162
oil, 161
statistics of, 162
tests for, 162-166
tincture, 229
white, 172
hair oil, 302
Peruvian balsam, white, 160, 161
bark hair oil, 301, 302
Petit-grain oil, 129
tincture, 236
Petroleum-ether, 48
as testing agent for Peru balsam, 163
Philocome hair oil, 303
Pimento oil, or oil of allspice, 136
Pineapple essence, 217
ether, 216
Pine-leaf oil, 149
tincture, 236
Pine odor for atomizing, 265
oil, 149
Piperate, potassium, 194
Piperine, 194
Piperonal, how obtained, 194, 195
or heliotropin, 193-195
Piver's apparatus for maceration, 59, 60
for the absorption process, 63, 64
Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a volatile oil, 83-86
Plants, families of, richest in volatile oils, 32
occurrence of volatile oils in, 31
Pliny's account of olibanum, 20, 21
"Historia naturalis," 23
Plum essence, 217
Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome, 22, 23
Paraffin ice pomade, 293
Poley oil, 135, 136
Pomade, apple, 289
bear's grease, 289
beef-marrow, 294
benzoin, 290
black wax, 299
blonde wax, 299
bouquet vaseline, 296
brown wax, 299, 300
castor oil, 293
cheap, 293
wax, 290
Densdorf, 290
emperor, 202
extra fine vaseline, 298
family, 290, 291
vaseline, 296
fine, 291, 294
vaseline (yellow), 297
for promoting the growth of the hair, 291
héliotrope, 291, 292
herb, 292
ice, 290
jasmine, 292
lanolin, 292, 293
lily of the valley vaseline, 296
macassar, 292
mignonette, 293
vaseline, 296
neroli, 293
vaseline, 296
oriental, 293
paraffin ice, 293
Portugal, 292
vaseline, 296
princess, 293, 294
quinine, 289, 290
(imitation), 290
resin, 300
Rogers's, for producing a beard, 294
rose, 294
wax, 299
salicylic, 294
stick, manufacture of, 298, 299
strawberry, 291
tonka, 294, 295
vanilla, 295
vaseline (red), 297
(white), 297
foundations for, 296
Victoria, 294
vaseline, 297, 298
violet, 295
Virginia vaseline, 297
walnut, 295
Pomades, 285-300
according to the German method, 288-295
and hair oils, fats for, 284
coloring substances for, 286
designation of the qualities of, 219, 220
foundations for, 288, 289
resin, 298
stick, 298-300
foundations for, 298
vaseline, 295-298
wax, 298
Pommade à l'acacia, 287
à la fleur d'orange, 287
à la rose, 287
à l'héliotrope, 287
Portugal hair oil, 303
oil, 125
tincture, 236
pomade, 292
vaseline pomade, 296
Potassium permanganate for dyeing the hair, 316
hair dye, 320
piperate, 194
Poudre d'Algérine, 281, 282
de corail, 280
de riz à la rose, 329, 330
de riz à la violette, 330
de riz bouquet, 331
de riz héliotrope, 330
de riz ixora, 331
de riz muguet, 330, 331
de riz orange, 330
dentifrice, 279
Powder for coloring intensely red, 336
new-mown hay fumigating, 267, 268
orange fumigating, 267
ordinary fumigating, 266, 267
rose fumigating, 267
Powders, 335, 336
and pastes for the teeth, 277-283
fumigating, 266-268
mixtures for, 336
pastilles, and essences, etc., for fumigating, 262-271
Preston salt, 260
Princess pomade, 293, 294
Pyrogallic acid for dyeing the hair, 316
hair stain, 320
Quinine pomade, 289, 290
(imitation), 290
tooth-water, 276
Raspberry essence, 218
Rastikopetra, 316
Récamier cream, 333
Red paint, fine, 337
ordinary, 336, 337
stick paint, 339
thyme oil, 147
Reggio, mode of manufacturing bergamot oil in, 118
Réséda sachet powder, 258, 259
Resin pomade, 300
pomades, 298
Resins and balsams, 155-177
definition of, 155
diffusion of, in the vegetable kingdom, 156
elementary constituents of, 155
hard, 155
soft, 155, 156
Rhazes, receipts for cosmetics in the writings of, 26
Rhodium oil, or rosewood oil, 145
Rhusma, 322, 323
Righini's method for testing bergamot oil, 98
Rogers's pomade for producing a beard, 294
Romans, ancient, consumption of perfume-substances by the, 24
Rome, introduction of ointments in, 22
Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in, 22, 23
Rosa alba, 137
damascena, 137
Rose bandoline, 305
flower fumigating essence, 264
fumigating pastilles, 270
powder, 267
hair oil, 304
milk, 326, 327
oil, adulterants of, 142
adulteration of, in Bulgaria 140
determination of spermaceti in, 143, 144
insulation and determination of the stearoptene in, 139, 140
judging the genuineness of, 139
liquid, 139
or attar of roses, 136-144
principal localities of production of, 136
test for, 143
used in Bulgaria, 141
tincture, 236, 237
ointment, according to Dioscorides, 23, 24
pomade, 294
wax pomade, 299
Rosemary oil, 144, 145
Roses, cream of, 333
Rosewood oil, or rhodium oil, 145
Rouge, 336, 337
en feuilles, 340
extravagant use of, in France, 28, 29
liquid, 340, 341
moulding of, into sticks, 339
stick, 339
Russian or Siberian castor, 185, 186
musk, 179, 180
Sachet à la rose, 257
à la violette, 257
aux millefleurs, 258
jockey club, 257
powder, ess-bouquet, 259
Frangipani, 258
héliotrope, 257
lily of the valley, 258
musk, 259
new-mown hay, 259
orange, 259
patchouli, 258
réséda, 258, 259
Victoria, 258
ylang-ylang, 257
powders, 256-259
Safrene, 146
Safrol, 146, 147
St. John's bread or carob, 209
Salicylic pomade, 294
Salts, smelling, 260, 261
Salve, Cyprian, 19
Sandal-wood oil, 145
tincture, 236
Saudarac, 177
Sandaracin, 177
Saponaceous tooth-wash, 283
Saponification number, 81
test, Kremel's, 81, 82
Sassafras oil, 145-147
Sartorius ylang-ylang oil, 154
Schimmel & Co.'s directions for bay rum, 313
directions for the quantitative determination of
cinnamaldehyde, 104-106
improved still, 44-46
Separator-funnel, 47
Shampoo liquid, 311, 312
lotion, 311
Siberian or Russian castor, 185, 186
musk, 179, 180
Silver, nitrate of, for dyeing the hair, 315
Single hair dyes, 319, 320
Siphon still, 41, 42
Skin cosmetics, 324-328
Smelling salts, 260, 261
Soap for dentifrices, 273
Solid paints, 336-340
Solubility of volatile oils, 33
Sozodont, 275
Spanish marjoram oil, 122, 123
Spermaceti, determination of, in rose oil, 143, 144
Spike oil, 115
Spinach extract, 239
Spirit of wine, or alcohol, detection of, in volatile oil, 68-71
Sponge-process for obtaining lemon oil, 116, 117
Stahl's tooth-tincture, 276
Star anise oil, 94, 95
Stearoptene, 33
of rose oil, 138
Stick paint, white, 340
pomade, manufacture of, 298, 299
pomader, 298-300
foundations for, 298
rouge, 339
Still, for direct steam, 43, 44
improved, 44-46
Still, ordinary, conversion of, into use with steam, 42, 43
siphon, 41, 42
Stohman's test for oil of cloves, 109
Storax, 168-172
American, 172
in grains, 171
liquid, 168-171
adulterations of, 170, 171
ordinary, 171, 172
tincture, 230
Strawberry essence, 218
ether, 216
pomade, 291
Styracin, 170
Styrax calamitus, 171, 172
vulgaris, 171, 172
Styrol, 169, 170
Sultana hair oil, 304
Sumbul root, or musk-root tincture, 231
Tannin hair dye, 321, 322
Taste and odor, testing the, of volatile oils, 66, 67
Tea hair tonic, 310, 311
Teinture Chinoise (Kohol), 319
Orientale (Karsi), 319
Templin oil, 149
Terpenes, 35, 36
adulterations of volatile oil with, 73
Terpilene, 189, 190
Testing volatile oils, 66-86
Theophrastus's work "On Perfumes," 23
Thibet or Oriental musk, 178, 179
Thymene, 147
Thyme oil, 147, 148
from the field thyme, 147, 148
Thymol, 147, 273
tooth-paste, 278
tooth-powder, 279
tooth-water, 274
Tincture, ambergris, 229
angelica-root, 231
balm-oil, 234
basil-oil, 234
benzoin, 229
bergamot-oil, 234
bitter almond-oil, 234
canango-oil, 234
cassia-oil, 235
castor, 229
cedar-oil, 235
cinnamon-oil, 235
citronella-oil, 235
civet, 228
clove-oil, 235
cumarin, 232
eucalyptus-oil, 235
geranium-oil, 235
heliotropin, 232
juniper-berry, 233
lavender-oil, 235
lemon-grass oil, 235
lemon-oil, 235
licari-oil, 235
musk, 228
root or sumbul-root, 231
seed or abelmosk, 230, 231
myrrh, 230
oil, 235
neroli-oil, 235
olibanum, 230
opopanax, 230
oil, 235
orris-root, 231
oil, 235
patchouli-oil, 235
Peru-balsam, 229
petit-grain-oil, 236
pine-leaf-oil, 236
Portugal-oil, 236
rose-oil, 236, 237
sandal-wood-oil, 236
storax, 230
tolu-balsam, 229, 230
tonka-bean, 231, 232
vanilla, 232
vanillin, 232
verbena-oil, 236
vitivert, 233
oil, 236
wintergreen-oil, 236
ylang-ylang-oil, 236
Tinctures and extracts, 225-237
apparatus for the preparation of, 226, 227
Toilet articles, golden age for, in France, 27-29
arts of the, in ancient times, 18
introduction of the arts of the, into France, 27
vinegar, 326
Tolu balsam, 166-168
new variety of, 167, 168
Tolu balsam, tincture, 229, 230
Toluene, 166, 167
Tonka beans, 191, 192
bean tincture, 231, 232
hair oil, 304
pomade, 294, 295
Tonkin musk, 178, 179
characteristics of, 180, 181
Tooth-and mouth-waters, 274-277
paste or odontine, 277, 278
pastes and tooth-powders, 277-283
powder, Dr. Hufeland's, 280
powders and tooth-pastes, 277-283
preparation of, 279
soap, 283
Dr. Hufeland's, 282, 283
tincture, Dr. Stahl's, 276
tinctures, use of, 276, 277
Trotula, works of, 26
Turkish geranium oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, 112
hair dye, 316
Turpentine, oil of, 148-150
conversion of, into lemon oil, 189, 190
United States, adaptation of some districts of, for the cultivation
of plants, 33
Valerianic ether, or amyl valerate, 214-216
ethyl ether, 216
Vanilla, 195, 196
hair oil, 303
pomade, 295
tincture, 232
Vanillin, 195-198
adulteration of, 198
preparation of, 196, 197
tincture, 232
Vaseline cold cream, 331
hair oil, 303
pomade, extra fine, 298
fine (yellow), 297
(red), 297
(white), 297
pomades, 295-298
foundations for, 296
Venetian oil of turpentine, 148
Verbena oil, 150
tincture, 236
Vetiver oil, or vitivert oil, 150, 151
Victoria hair oil, 304
pomade, 294
sachet powder, 258
vaseline pomade, 297, 298
Vinaigre de Bully, 324
de toilette, 325
de toilette à l'héliotrope, 325
de toilette à la rose, 324
de toilette à la violette, 324
de toilette orange, 325
Vinegar, aromatic, 325, 326
fumigating, 266
toilet, 326
Vinegars and essences, fumigating, 264-266
Violet-flower fumigating essence, 265
Violet fumigating pastilles, 270
powder, 267
hair oil, 304
mouth-water, 275
oil of, 150
pomade, 295
tooth-powder, 279
Virginal milk, 326
Virginia vaseline pomade, 297
Vitivert-oil tincture, 236
Vitivert, or vetiver oil, 150, 151
tincture, 233
Volatile oil, apparatus for determining the percentage of, in a
vegetable substance, 40, 41
apparatus for the distillation of, 41-46
Planchon's procedure for the recognition of a, 83-86
separation of the, and 46, 47
testing the odor of, 66
the taste of, 67
oils, 33-65
ancient method of distilling, 24
apparatus for the extraction of, 48-57
characteristics of, 33, 34
concentrated, 35
detection of adulterations of, with an oil of lower quality, 74-83
distillation of, 39-48
division of, with reference to the guaiacum reaction, 79, 80
expression of, 36-39
extraction of, 48-58
extra strong, 35
for Cologne water, durability of, 250, 251
localities best suited for the cultivation of flowers for the
production of, 32, 33
modes of obtaining, 36-65
patented, 35
principal divisions of, 34
solubility of, 33
storage of, 65
testing of, 66-86
the, used in perfumery, 87-154
or essential oils, occurrence of, in plants, 31
Walnut hair dye, 320
pomade, 295
shells, green, for dyeing the hair, 318
Washes, 326-328
Wash for the hands, 334
Water, fumigating, 266
separation of the, and oil, 46, 47
Wax pomade, cheap, 300
pomades, 298
White lead, 336
liquid paint, 341
paint, 337
rose solid perfume, 259
smelling salts, 260, 261
stick paint, 340
thyme oil, 147
tooth-powder, 280
Williams, F. R., utilization of Maumené's test by, 82, 83
Wintergreen oil, 151-153
adulteration of, 153
tincture, 236
Ylang-ylang hair oil, 303
oil, 153, 154
tincture, 236
sachet powder, 257
Yunnan musk, 178, 179
Zibethum, 184, 185
Zinc white, 336
Transcriber's Notes
Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected.
Variable use of accents and ligatures has been standardised to ensure
compatibility between text and index.
The reference in the index to oleum uonæ has been corrected to oleum
unonæ.
The index lists Pomade - cheap - wax at page 390, which does not exist.
This has been changed to 290.>
Footnotes 12 and 13, merely repeat footnote 11, so have been removed
and all references changed to footnote 11.
Italics are shown thus _italic_ and subscripts thus {2}.