rose wood and ground rose leaves each 25, ground orange peel 12½,
ground benzoin 25, ground vitivert root 12½, Turkish rose oil 1,
bergamot oil 2½, oils of cloves and verbena each 1, musk tincture 1½,
civet tincture 1.
_Réséda sachet powder._--Ground orris root 100 drachms, ground rose
leaves 50, ground rose wood 25, clove oil, African geranium oil, and
bergamot oil each 2½, musk-root tincture 10, vanilla tincture 5, musk
tincture 1, extrait réséda 25.
_Musk sachet powder._--Ground musk root, ground exhausted musk sacs,
and ground lavender flowers, each 50 drachms, ground benzoin 25, cassia
oil, palma-rose oil, and clove oil each 2½, musk tincture 22½.
_Ess-bouquet sachet powder._--Ground rose wood and ground lavender
flowers each 50 drachms, ground vitivert root 25, ground opopanax 12½,
ground orris root 25, bergamot oil and lemon oil each 2½, clove oil
1, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1½, African geranium oil 2½, sandal-wood oil
and licari oil each 1, musk tincture 2½, civet tincture 1½, extrait
ess-bouquet 25.
_New-mown hay sachet powder._--Pulverized starch 25 drachms, ground
rose leaves and ground lavender flowers, each 50, ground orris root and
ground benzoin, each 25, bergamot oil 5, angelica oil and Java cananga
oil each 1½, tonka-bean extract 7½, musk tincture 1½, vitivert tincture
7½.
_Orange sachet powder._--Ground orange peels 100 drachms, ground lemon
peels 50, ground lavender flowers 25, Portugal oil 10, neroli oil and
petit grain oil each 1½, bergamot oil 2½, musk-tincture 1½, musk-root
tincture 10.
SOLID PERFUMES WITH PARAFFINE. The solid perfumes simply consist of
hard paraffine, which, when melted, is perfumed with a corresponding
quantity of any desired perfume-essence and poured into moulds. A few
mixtures for such perfumes are here given:--
_White rose._--Rose geranium oil and bergamot oil each 10 drachms,
patchouli oil and oil of cloves 1½.
_Ess-bouquet._--Coriander oil 1 drachm, oil of cloves 7, nutmeg oil
3.5, lavender oil 10, sandal-wood oil 3.5, bergamot oil 30, rose oil
and rose-geranium oil each 2, neroli oil 0.6.
_Lavender odor._--Lavender oil 50 drachms, bergamot oil 25, cinnamon
oil 0.3, geranium oil 2.5, neroli oil 0.5.
_Eau de Cologne._--Bergamot oil and lime oil each 30 drachms, lemon oil
and neroli oil each 15, rosemary oil 5, rose geranium oil 0.6.
SMELLING SALTS. Smelling salts are ammoniacal perfumes in a solid form,
Preston salt (_sel de Preston_) being one of the most popular. It is
generally prepared by intimately rubbing together in a porcelain mortar
equal parts of sal ammoniac or ammonium carbonate and lime freshly
slaked to a powder, and perfuming the mixture, according to the quality
of volatile salts desired, with a finer or inferior perfume.
William W. Bartlett prepares Preston salt without lime according to
the following receipt: Powdered chloride of ammonium 1½ ozs., powdered
carbonate of potassium 1 oz. 6 drachms, coarsely powdered carbonate of
ammonium 3 drachms, oils of clove and bergamot each 10 drops.
Mr. Bartlett also gives a formula for a "_menthol pungent_" which is
quite agreeable to the smell and a novelty for headache and faintness.
It is prepared by leaving out the essential oils in the above formula
and substituting in their place 1 drachm of menthol.
_White smelling_ salt consists essentially of perfumed carbonate of
ammonia. There are several receipts for it, one frequently used being
as follows: Mix in a capacious porcelain mortar 2.2 lbs. of ammonium
carbonate with 1.1 lb. of ammonia, cover the mortar and let it stand
quietly. In the course of a few days the contents have been converted
into normal carbonate of ammonia. The latter is reduced to a coarse
powder and perfumed with bergamot oil 0.56 drachm, lavender oil 0.9,
nutmeg oil, clove oil, and rose oil each 0.28, cinnamon oil 2.82.
The incorporation of the volatile oils is effected by first triturating
about 1/10 of the salt with the volatile oils and then gradually
incorporating with this perfumed mass the rest of the salt, a uniform
distribution of the odor being in this manner effected.
CHAPTER X.
FUMIGATING ESSENCES, PASTILLES, POWDERS, ETC.
Fumigating agents are divided into liquid and dry, the first being
alcoholic solutions, and perhaps most popular. They consist of
extractions from resins, balsams, leaves, flowers, seeds, wood, and
roots, compounded with volatile oils, alcohol, and alcoholic extracts
from French flower pomades.
It should be the aim of the perfumer to compound these substances so
that a harmonious blending together of all the ingredients is attained.
The object of fumigating living rooms, sleeping rooms, and sick
chambers is not only to make abode in these rooms more agreeable by an
attempt to cover the disagreeable odors, but chiefly to render them
innoxious, thus combining the useful with the agreeable.
For several years past a strong prejudice against fumigating has been
developed. Such prejudice may be justified in certain cases, especially
when the fumigating agents contain musk or are otherwise incorrectly
composed. An addition of musk, even in very small quantities, causes
nervous persons to dislike fumigating agents containing it, because it
is a well-known fact that musk excites the nerves in a high degree, and
hence in most cases fumigating with agents containing it does more harm
than good.
The mode of fumigating has also to be taken into consideration. It
is, for instance, entirely incorrect to place the fumigating agent
upon very hot iron, a hot stovepipe, or glowing coals, because in
evaporating upon hot iron, it leaves behind an empyreumatic, pungent
odor excitatory to cough, while the actual aroma is lost and thus the
object of fumigating is frustrated.
To derive the best effects from the fumigating agent it should be
placed upon a moderately warm article so that it will slowly evaporate.
Liquid fumigating agents may also be mixed in a porcelain vessel with
distilled water. By placing the vessel upon a warm stove, evaporation
proceeds at a still slower rate, because the fumigating agent can only
evaporate together with the water, whereby its aroma becomes still more
agreeable. The use of rose water or orange water instead of distilled
water considerably enhances the success of fumigating.
The so-called atomizers may here be mentioned. They are very
practicable for cold fumigating, _i. e._, for the distribution of pine
odor, Cologne water, etc. On account of their content of musk the
atomization of _Extraits d'Odeurs_ in the presence of nervous people
cannot be recommended.
The dry fumigating agents, such as powders, pastilles, paper, and
lacquer, are less popular than the fluid, it being necessary for the
purpose of fumigating to place them upon hot articles, heat them,
or burn them. These manipulations develop more or less smoke, which
frequently exerts a disagreeable effect upon the respiratory organs.
The most injurious of these methods of hot fumigation is that by means
of hot coals, whereby the aroma of the fumigating agent is largely
destroyed, and the very injurious gas emanating from the coals is
inhaled. A heated piece of sheet-iron is, however, very suitable for
fumigation by means of powder or lacquer. Scatter the powder upon it or
coat it with the lacquer.
Several approved receipts for liquid and dry fumigating agents are here
given.
FUMIGATING ESSENCES AND VINEGARS. Great care should be exercised in
making the following receipts for liquid fumigating agents. After
mixing, shake thoroughly, and let the product stand quietly for at
least several weeks, the aroma of all alcoholic perfumes being improved
by storing for some time. It need scarcely be said that alcohol of the
finest quality is to be used, since, if it contains fusel oil, the
attainment of a fine product is absolutely impossible. To decrease the
cost of manufacture, it might be permissible to increase the proportion
of alcohol, but an inferior quality of it should, under no conditions,
be employed.
_Rose-flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol, extract No. 1, from
French-rose pomade and benzoin tincture each 1 quart, musk-root
tincture No. 1, 8¾ ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each 2¾
drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5½ drachms. Dissolve the rose oil in
the other volatile oils.
_Flower fumigating essence, héliotrope._--Alcohol and extract No. 1
from French héliotrope pomade each 1 quart, vanilla tincture No. 1 and
orris-root tincture each 1 pint, tinctures of benzoin and tolu balsam
each ½ pint, musk-root tincture No. 1, 7 ozs., cumarin tincture 5¼
ozs., Portugal oil 1 oz., French rose-geranium oil 11¼ drachms, clove
oil 5½ drachms, best lavender oil 11¼ drachms.
_Violet flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol 1 quart, extracts No. 1
from French-violet pomade and cassie pomade each 1 pint, orris-root
tincture No. 1, 1 quart, benzoin tincture 1 pint, storax tincture ¼
pint, abelmosk tincture No. 1, 4¼ ozs., ambergris tincture 11¼ drachms,
orris-root oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil 11¼ drachms, best lavender
oil 5½ drachms, myrrh oil 1½ drachms, basil oil 2¾ drachms.
_Oriental-flower fumigating essence._--Alcohol 1 quart, extract from
French-rose pomade 17½ ozs., extracts from French-jasmine pomade,
jonquille pomade, héliotrope pomade and cassie pomades each 7 ozs.,
vanilla tincture 7 ozs., tinctures of orris root, tonka beans, and musk
root each 3½ ozs., benzoin tincture 8½ ozs., tolu-balsam tincture 4¼
ozs., storax tincture 5¼ ozs., olibanum tincture 3½ ozs., ambergris
tincture and bergamot oil each 1¾ ozs., Ceylon cinnamon oil 5½
drachms, best lavender oil 11 ozs., Turkish rose oil and clove oil each
5½ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms, Peru balsam 3½ ozs.
_Pine odor_ (_for atomizing_) No. 1.--Alcohol 2 quarts, pine oil (from
_Pinus picea_) 7 ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms.
_Pine odor_ (_for atomizing_) No. 2.--Alcohol 2 quarts, dwarf-pine oil
(from _Pinus pumilio_) 5¼ ozs., oil of lemons 5½ drachms.
_Juniper odor._--Alcohol 2 quarts, extra fine juniper berry oil 3½
ozs., best lavender oil 5½ drachms, juniper tincture 8¾ ozs.
Pine odor or juniper odor may also be mixed in a vessel with water, and
thus used for fumigating.
_Fumigating balsam._--Alcohol 3 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart,
tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam, and storax each 17½ ozs., olibanum
tincture 8¾ ozs., tinctures of abelmosk and musk-root each 3½ ozs.,
vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs., Peru balsam 4¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾
ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, African rose geranium oil 11¼ drachms,
clove oil and cassia oil each 14 drachms, petit-grain oil 11¼ drachms,
fine lavender oil 1¾ ozs.
_Fumigating water._--Alcohol 10 quarts, orris-root tincture No. 2,
tinctures of storax, benzoin, and tolu balsam each 1 quart, abelmosk
tincture No. 2, 7 ozs., olibanum tincture 8¾ ozs., Peru balsam and
lavender oil each 3½ ozs., cassia oil and bergamot oil each 1 oz.,
thyme oil ½ oz., clove oil and palmarosa oil each 1 oz.
_Fumigating vinegar._--Alcohol 2 quarts, orris-root tincture 1 quart,
benzoin tincture 1 pint, tinctures of tolu balsam and storax each ½
pint, musk-root tincture 4¼ ozs., tinctures of vitivert and vanilla
each 3½ ozs., Peru balsam 1¾ ozs., lavender oil and clove oil each
8¼ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil and African rose-geranium oil each 5½
drachms, acetic acid 4¼ ozs.
FUMIGATING POWDERS. The lavender flowers, marigold flowers (_Calendula
officinalis_), rose leaves, etc., used in the preparation of fumigating
powders are not pulverized, but so far comminuted with a suitable
instrument as to form a distinctly colored mixture. To dissolve the
volatile oils, they are thoroughly mixed with the alcoholic extracts
mentioned in the receipts. The perfume thus obtained is finally
incorporated with the powders by rubbing together with the hands. To
prevent loss of perfume, it is mixed with the powders in a porcelain or
enamelled vessel.
_Ordinary fumigating powder._--Lavender flowers, marigold flowers,
corn flowers, rose leaves, rasped orris root each 2 lbs., cloves and
cinnamon each 3½ ozs., rasped sanders wood 17½ ozs., rasped cedar
wood 8¾ ozs., fumigating balsam 17½ ozs., bergamot oil and African
rose-geranium oil each 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 11¼ drachms.
Besides the above-mentioned dry constituents, the residues from
odoriferous substances, such as vanilla, orris root, vitivert root,
juniper berries, etc., employed in the preparation of tinctures may be
used for ordinary fumigating powders.
_Rose fumigating powder._--Rose leaves and rose wood each 2 lbs.,
lavender flowers and sanders wood each 1 lb., corn flowers ½
lb., tinctures of musk root and abelmosk each 1¾ ozs., African
rose-geranium oil 1 oz., Turkish rose oil 2¾ drachms, bergamot oil
8¼ drachms, clove oil 2¾ drachms, nutmeg oil 1½ drachms, extract
from French rose pomade 3½ ozs.
_Violet fumigating powder._--Rasped orris root 4 lbs., lavender flowers
and rasped sanders wood each 1 lb., orris-root tincture, abelmosk
tincture, and bergamot oil each 1¾ ozs., orris-root oil, basil oil,
and Ceylon-cinnamon oil each 2¾ drachms, extract from French cassie
pomade 1¾ ozs.
_Orange fumigating powder._--Orange peels 4 lbs., orange flowers and
marigold flowers each 1 lb., musk-root tincture and Portugal oil each
1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 5½ drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms,
extract from French orange flower pomade 3½ ozs.
_New-mown hay fumigating powder._--Lavender flowers 2 lbs.,
rose-leaves, rasped sanders wood, and rasped orris root each 1 lb.,
powdered benzoin, Roman camomile, curled mint and balm each ½ lb.,
exhausted tonka beans 1 lb., patchouli leaves and bergamot oil each
11¼ drachms, African rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, tonka-bean extract
and abelmosk tincture each 1¾ ozs., extract from French réséda
pomade 3½ ozs.
FUMIGATING PAPER. Bring into a capacious shallow dish a quantity of
fumigating balsam and repeatedly draw sheets of card-board through it,
allowing the sheets to thoroughly drain off and dry after each drawing
through. After repeating the operation about four times, the sheets
will be sufficiently perfumed and are then coated by means of a fine
brush with a solution of gum-arabic in rose water. This gives to the
sheets a dull lustre, while the thin layer of gum-arabic also prevents
the volatilization of the aroma. The sheets thus perfumed are cut up
into pieces the size of a playing card, and six to twelve such pieces
put up in an envelope. For use the paper is not ignited, but only
heated. With one such piece a room can be several times perfumed. It
may be remarked that before perfuming, the name of the firm, directions
for use, etc., are generally printed upon the card-board.
FUMIGATING PASTILLES. Some perfumers make more or less a specialty of
the manufacture of fumigating pastilles. They are generally of a red or
black color, different perfumes, names and qualities.
To prepare them, the finely pulverized substances are passed through a
sieve and mixed in a capacious dish with the volatile oils, tinctures,
etc. The mixture of powder and perfume is then made into a mass with
a mucilage of gum tragacanth, which is thoroughly kneaded to make it
homogeneous.
The saltpetre given in the receipts is dissolved by itself in
distilled water and last of all added to the mass. Its object is to
keep the pastilles burning after ignition.
As regards the mucilage of gum-tragacanth, it may be said that it
readily spoils, especially in summer. When it begins to get watery
it is already useless and soon acquires a bad odor; by decomposition
it loses its cementing power. Hence only a sufficient quantity for
immediate use should be made at one time.
The moulding of the pastilles is very simple. A number of tin cones
into which the mass is pressed are used for the purpose. After standing
for a short time the pastilles are taken from the moulds and allowed to
dry.
_Ordinary red fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized sanders wood and
pulverized Sumatra benzoin each 2 lbs., finely pulverized sandarac
and olibanum each 1 lb., saltpetre 4¼ ozs. dissolved in distilled
water; clove oil 5½ drachms, palmarosa oil 11 drachms, lavender oil 14
drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required.
_Ordinary black fumigating pastilles._--Charcoal 2 lbs., finely
pulverized Sumatra benzoin 2 lbs., finely pulverized olibanum 1 lb.,
saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled water; lavender oil, cassia
oil, and citronella oil each 11¼ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as
much as required.
_Musk fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized genuine linden charcoal 2
lbs., pulverized musk root and orris root each 1 lb., pulverized
sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and abelmosk each ½ lb., saltpetre 4¼
ozs., dissolved in distilled water; Tonkin musk 1½ drachms, triturated
in distilled water; African-rose geranium oil, Portugal and cedar oil
each 5½ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required.
_Rose fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized sanders wood 2 lbs., powdered
sandarac and Siam benzoin each 1 lb., carmine, dissolved in rose
water, 1½ drachms; saltpetre 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, clove
oil, Turkish rose oil, and French rose-geranium oil each 2.75 drachms.
Gum-tragacanth dissolved in rose water as much as required.
_Violet fumigating pastilles._--Powdered orris root 2 lbs., pulverized
sanders wood 1 lb., pulverized Siam benzoin and opopanax each ½ lb.,
saltpetre 3½ ozs., dissolved in distilled water; tolu-balsam tincture
3½ ozs., orris-root oil and bergamot oil each 5½ drachms, myrrh oil
2¾ drachms. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as required.
_Millefleurs fumigating pastilles._--Pulverized linden charcoal 2 lbs.,
pulverized sanders wood, Siam benzoin, and orris root each 1 lb.,
pulverized olibanum ½ lb.; saltpetre 4¼ ozs., dissolved in distilled
water; bergamot oil and African rose-geranium oil each 14 drachms,
Ceylon cinnamon oil, Paraguay petit-grain oil, and juniper-berry oil
each 5½ drachms, Peru balsam 1¾ ozs., civet tincture 5½ drachms,
musk-root tincture 3½ ozs. Mucilage of gum-tragacanth as much as
required.
_Fumigating lacquer._--Fumigating lacquer consists chiefly of resins,
to which sufficient liquid storax is added to render the mass plastic,
so that sticks of any desired length and thickness can be formed
therefrom.
The resins and licorice mentioned in the receipt given below are
gradually and very carefully melted in an iron pan over a gas or
petroleum flame. To prevent the resins from scorching, the bottom of
the pan must constantly be kept free with a small iron spatula. When
the mass is perfectly fluid the Frankfort black is added, and the whole
thoroughly worked until no more lumps of Frankfort black are present.
The pan is then taken from the fire, and, after allowing the mass to
cool somewhat, it is perfumed with the thoroughly mixed perfume.
A lithographic stone, not too small, is used for giving the fumigating
lacquer a round form. The stone is rubbed with a rag moistened with a
very small quantity of olive oil. A small portion of the still very
warm mass is then poured upon the stone and rolled with the hands,
which should also be moistened with a little olive oil, into sticks of
desired thickness. The sticks are cut into the desired lengths while
the lacquer is still warm, and the operation is thus continued until
the entire mass is worked up. The mass in the pan must, of course, be
constantly kept liquid.
Siam benzoin, olibanum, and myrrh each 8¾ ozs., storax as free from
water as possible 3½ ozs., licorice 17½ ozs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs.,
Frankfort black 5¼ ozs., bergamot oil 14 drachms, African rose-geranium
oil, cassia oil, juniper-berry oil, and eucalyptus oil each 11¼
drachms.
CHAPTER XI.
DENTIFRICES, MOUTH-WATERS, ETC.
For cleansing and preserving the teeth and gums, _soaps_, _powders_,
and _tinctures_ are used, and for removing foul breath, _mouth-waters_.
Great care is required in compounding dentifrices and mouth-waters,
and special attention must be paid to the correct selection of the
material. The substances used must be chemically pure, and no caustic
or sharp or grating materials, such as pumice, sand, _ossa sepiæ_,
etc., should be employed, they destroying the enamel of the teeth.
The coloring substances used to give the dentifrices and mouth-waters
a pleasing appearance should under no condition be injurious or
poisonous, such as, for instance, brilliant rosa, cinnabar, aniline,
chrome yellow, picric acid, etc. The perfumes have also to be carefully
selected, and all repugnant volatile oils and tinctures, such as
bitter-almond oil, sandal-wood oil, musk tincture, etc., should
be avoided. On the other hand, peppermint oil forms the principal
constituent of the perfume for most dentifrices and mouth-waters, this
preference being not only due to its agreeable odor, but chiefly to its
pleasant, refreshing, and stimulating action upon our organs.
In accordance with recent medical directions and opinions soap is
again employed, and justly so, for the better cleansing of the teeth,
whilst formerly it was generally considered injurious. However, though
soap is innocuous to the teeth, it should be used in very limited
quantities, since its introduction into the mouth is repugnant to many
persons, producing in many cases vomiting. The quality of the soap must
also be taken into consideration, and only the best neutral soap in
the form of a powder, such as is used for fine milled soaps, should be
employed.
The alcohol used for the tooth and mouth-waters--more correctly
tinctures--should be perfectly free from fusel oil, and of 95 to 96 per
cent. strength. The best qualities of volatile oils should be taken,
and the tinctures prepared with the greatest care.
The dentifrices for preventing caries, among which the thymol
preparations are the most prominent, deserve special attention. The
most celebrated physicians have long since recognized thymol as
an antiseptic, it being much used in hospitals, and is frequently
preferred to carbolic acid. For this reason thymol preparations should
be used for preserving the teeth. They render good service, especially
in the case of hollow teeth, as they remove the foul odor and protect
the sound teeth from becoming hollow. For cleansing artificial teeth
thymol tooth-water can be especially recommended. Great care should,
therefore, be exercised in the preparation of these thymol dentifrices.
On the other hand, according to medical opinions, dentifrices
containing salicylic acid cannot be recommended, the acid, it is
claimed, being very injurious to the enamel of the teeth.
Glycerin, which occurs in several receipts for dentifrices and
mouth-waters, fulfills a double object; on the one hand, its action
upon the teeth and mouth is beneficial, and, on the other, it covers
the naturally bitter taste of many substances contained in the
preparations, and thus makes them more agreeable to use.
The receipts for dentifrices and mouth-waters here given have been
thoroughly tested, and can be highly recommended.
_Tooth and mouth waters._ _Thymol tooth-water._--Alcohol of best
quality 5 quarts, chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 17½ ozs.,
crystallized thymol 1 oz., white thyme oil and best peppermint oil each
1¼ ozs., tinctures of arnica and guaiacum each 1¾ ozs., cochineal
tincture, for coloring, 2¾ to 3½ ozs.
Bring all the ingredients into a glass balloon, shake thoroughly, and
protect the liquid from sunlight.
The cochineal tincture is prepared from 14 ozs. of cochineal and 1
quart of alcohol of best quality, the arnica tincture from 2 lbs. of
arnica root and 2½ quarts of alcohol of best quality, and the guaiacum
tincture from 5¼ ozs. of guaiacum-wood and 1 quart of alcohol of best
quality.
_Eau dentifrice Botot._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, chemically
pure glycerin of 28° B. 17¾ ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs., clove oil
11 drachms, anise-seed oil 5 drachms, ratany tincture and vanilla
tincture each 5¼ ozs., Peruvian bark tincture 1¾ ozs., sanders-wood
tincture, as coloring matter, 3½ ozs. Proceed as above.
The sanders-wood tincture is prepared by macerating 5¼ ozs. of red
sanders wood with 1 quart of alcohol.
_Eau dentifrice Orientale._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
peppermint oil and rose-geranium oil each 1¼ ozs., clove oil 11¼
drachms, _extrait rose_ and ratany tincture each 3½ ozs., vanilla
tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as above and color rose color with corallin
tincture.
The ratany tincture is prepared from 17½ ozs. of ratany root and 1
quart alcohol, and the corallin tincture from 17½ ozs. of corallin and
1 quart alcohol.
_Violet mouth-water._--Tincture of benzoin 7 parts, tincture of ratany
30, tincture of myrrh 60, rose water 250, tincture of orris root 500,
alcohol 250.
_Antiseptic gargle._--The following solution is recommended for
sterilizing the mouth after the teeth have been cleansed with a
tooth-brush and soap: Thymol 3½ grains, benzoic acid 45, tincture of
eucalyptus 180, water 1½ pints.
_Odontine._--Exhaust 3 ozs. of pulverized myrrh with a mixture of
25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of water. Then dissolve 1½ ozs. of
Castile soap shavings in a mixture of 25 ozs. of alcohol and 8 ozs. of
water, and color wine-red with alkannin. Then add lemon oil 30 drops,
peppermint oil 30 drops, wintergreen oil 10 drops, star-anise oil 30
drops, and finally 4 ozs. of glycerin. After allowing the whole to
stand in a cool place for one or two weeks, filter, mix the filtrate
with 10 drachms of acetic ether, and fill in bottles.
_Sozodont._--White Castile soap ½ oz., oil of peppermint 5 drops, oil
of wintergreen 12 drops, glycerin ½ oz., water 1 oz., alcohol 2 ozs.,
cochineal tincture sufficient to color.
_Eau de Botot_ (_improved_).--Cloves, star-anise, and soap bark, each
2½ drachms, cochineal 1½ drachms. Pulverize and percolate with the
following mixture: Alcohol 20 ozs., rose water 4 ozs. To the percolate
add: Cream of tartar 45 grains, oil of peppermint 1½ drachms. Filter.
_Quinine tooth-water._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, peppermint
oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., Ceylon cinnamon oil 2¾ drachms,
Peruvian bark-tincture 8¾ ozs., guaiacum-tincture 3½ ozs., myrrh
tincture 1.75 ozs., glycerine of 28° B. 17½ ozs. Proceed as above.
The Peruvian bark-tincture is prepared by macerating 8¾ ozs. of
Peruvian bark in 1 quart of alcohol of best quality.
_Dr. Stahl's tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, French rose-geranium
oil 8¼ drachms, vanilla-tincture 5¼ ozs., guaiacum-tincture 3½ ozs.,
benzoin tincture 8¾ ozs., henna-tincture, as coloring matter, 8¾
ozs.
Bring all the ingredients into a glass bottle, shake thoroughly and
protect the mixture from sunlight. The tincture, when mixed with water,
gives an emulsion.
The henna-tincture is obtained by macerating 17½ ozs. of henna-root in
4 quarts of alcohol.
_Esprit de menthe._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts, peppermint oil
4¼ ozs.
_Arnica tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality and arnica-tincture
each 1 quart, Peruvian bark-tincture 1 pint, glycerin of 28° B. 5¼
ozs., cochineal tincture, as coloring matter, 1¾ ozs.
_Myrrh tooth-tincture._--Alcohol of best quality 1 quart, myrrh
tincture 2 quarts, guaiacum-tincture 8¾ ozs.
A few remarks may here be made regarding the use of tooth tinctures.
The tinctures should not be used undiluted, they being apt to make
tender gums sore, cause pain, and may even produce inflammation. It is
best to dilute the tinctures somewhat with water whereby they become
milder and more agreeable to the gums. An excellent article for rinsing
out the mouth is obtained by pouring a teaspoonful of the tincture into
a tumbler of water.
TOOTH-PASTES AND TOOTH-POWDERS. _Tooth-paste or odontine, No.
1._--Carbonate of magnesium 6 lbs., sugar of milk 2 lbs., precipitated
carbonate of calcium 4 lbs., alizarin, to color, 1¾ ozs., best
soap-powder 7 ozs., powdered gum-arabic 5¼ ozs., sugar 17½ ozs.
dissolved in distilled water 2½ quarts, chemically pure glycerin of 28°
B. 17½ ozs., peppermint oil 8¾ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms.
Pass the magnesia, sugar of milk, carbonate of calcium, alizarin,
soap-powder and gum-arabic through a fine sieve and mix intimately;
dissolve the sugar in the distilled water and add the glycerin to the
solution. Bring the sifted powders into a mortar or other convenient
vessel, gradually add the fluid and thoroughly mix with the hands.
Then add the perfume, and convert the whole into a solid paste with a
wooden pestle. Instead of mixing and working the mass in a mortar, the
operation is much more rapidly performed by passing the mixture through
the rolls of a soap mill, which must, of course, be thoroughly cleansed
for the purpose by washing with water.
_Tooth-paste or odontine, No. 2._--Carbonate of magnesium and sugar
of milk each 2 lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 4 lbs.,
prepared chalk 10 lbs., sugar 4 lbs. dissolved in water 5 quarts, best
soap-powder 2 lbs., alizarin, as coloring matter, 7 ozs., peppermint
oil 10½ ozs., clove oil 8¾ ozs.
This paste is prepared in the same manner as No. 1, only the
proportion of water has to be taken into consideration. To prevent the
mass from becoming too soft, the water should be very gradually added.
_Thymol tooth-paste._--Carbonate of magnesium 4 lbs., sugar of milk
2 lbs., pulverized gum-arabic and soap powder each 3½ ozs., carmine
nacarat, as coloring matter, 2¾ drachms, and alizarin, as coloring
matter, 6¾ drachms, sugar 10½ ozs., dissolved in distilled water
1¾ quarts, peppermint oil 1¼ ozs., white thyme oil 2½ ozs.,
crystallized thymol 1¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs. The thyme oil,
peppermint oil and arnica tincture are brought into a bottle and the
thymol is dissolved in the mixture. By previously converting the thymol
to a coarse powder solution takes place quite rapidly. The further
manipulation is the same as given for tooth-paste No. 1.
_Cherry tooth-paste._--Boil briskly 1 oz. potassium carbonate and 1 oz.
of powdered cochineal in a pint of water until reduced to 12 or 13 ozs.
When cold, add 1 oz. cream of tartar, ½ oz. alum, 2 ozs. glycerin,
and water sufficient to make 16 ozs. of filtered solution. Then add 4
ozs. of honey and set aside a few days to see if fermentation occurs.
Carefully mix the liquid with 2 lbs. prepared chalk, 1¾ ozs. orris
powder and ¾ ozs. cassia powder.
_Non-fermenting cherry tooth-paste._--Fine powdered pumice stone 2
ozs., powdered orris root 2 ozs., powdered myrrh ½ oz., honey 4 ozs.,
sufficient liquid cochineal to color, oil of cloves ½ drachm, essence
of lemon 1½ drachms, rose oil 8 drops. Mix well.
_Odontine paste._--French chalk 30 drachms, soap 15, sugar 15,
gum-arabic 2, peppermint oil 2, glycerin 8, water 8. Work into a paste.
_Thymol tooth-powder._--Sugar of milk and carbonate of magnesium each 2
lbs., precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs.,
alizarin, as coloring matter, and crystallized thymol, each 1 oz.,
glycerin of 28° B. 5¼ ozs., arnica tincture 7 ozs., white thyme oil 1½
ozs., peppermint oil 11¼ drachms.
Thoroughly mix--preferably in a capacious enamelled vessel--the
powdered and colored ingredients, add the thymol dissolved in the
mixture of the volatile oils, arnica tincture and glycerin, rub and
uniformly mix the whole with the hands, so that no specks of coloring
matter and perfume are perceptible, and then again pass through a fine
sieve.
Tooth powder is best kept in well closed tin boxes; boxes of wood or
paste-board are not suitable for the purpose, the powder, when kept in
them, losing in quality.
The above explanations refer to all the following tooth powders:--
_Poudre dentifrice._--Precipitated carbonate of calcium 2 lbs.,
carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ lbs., fine soap-powder
5¼ ozs., alizarin, as coloring matter, 5¼ ozs., peppermint oil 2 ozs.,
clove oil 5½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 2¾ drachms, rose-geranium
oil 5½ drachms, vanilla tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given for thymol
tooth-powder.
_Violet tooth-powder._--Orris-root powder 3 lbs., carbonate of
magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 1½ lbs., best soap-powder 5¼ ozs.,
Portugal oil and peppermint oil each 1 oz., ratany tincture 3½ ozs.
Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder.
_Dr. Hufeland's tooth-powder._--Pulverized sanders wood, Peruvian bark,
and precipitated carbonate of calcium each 2 lbs., best soap-powder
7 ozs., bergamot oil and Portugal oil each 11 drachms, clove oil and
cassia oil each 14 drachms, myrrh tincture 1¾ ozs. Proceed as given
for thymol tooth-powder.
_White tooth-powder._--Carbonate of magnesium, precipitated carbonate
of calcium, and prepared chalk each 1 lb., soap-powder 3½ ozs.,
peppermint oil 1 oz., clove oil 5½ drachms. Proceed as given for thymol
tooth-powder.
_Black tooth-powder._--Finely pulverized linden charcoal 2 lbs.,
precipitated carbonate of calcium 1 lb., best soap-powder 3½ ozs.,
peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms, guaiacum tincture 3½
ozs. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder.
_Poudre de corail._--Carbonate of magnesium 1 lb., sugar of milk 7
ozs., prepared chalk 1 lb., best soap-powder 7 ozs., alizarin 3½ ozs.,
peppermint oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms, cassia oil 2¾
drachms. Proceed as given for thymol tooth-powder.
_Camphor tooth-powder._--Prepared chalk and precipitated carbonate
of calcium each 1 lb., best soap-powder 2½ ozs., peppermint oil 5½
drachms, camphor 1 oz. dissolved in the necessary quantity of alcohol
of best quality.
Thoroughly mix all the ingredients and pass the mixture through a fine
sieve. This tooth-powder should be used only every 5 or 6 days; when
too frequently used it affects the nerves.
_Opiat liquide pour les dents._--Genuine honey 1½ lbs., sugar syrup 2½
ozs., best wheat flour 7 ozs., round-lake 2 ozs., peppermint oil and
clove oil each 11¼ drachms.
Convert the round-lake into a fine powder and pass it through a fine
sieve into a capacious porcelain dish. Then intimately mix it with the
wheat flour, gradually add the honey and syrup, and after thoroughly
working the mass for about ¼ hour, add the volatile oil. Now work
the whole thoroughly with the pestle, then cover the dish, and after
allowing it to stand quietly for about 36 hours, bring the mass into
boxes of glass or tin provided with screw-tops.
_Poudre d' Algérine._--Cream of tartar and pulverized red coral each
2 lbs., pulverized burnt alum 1 lb., pulverized sugar of milk 2 lbs.,
cochineal as coloring matter 3½ ozs.
The pulverized ingredients are brought into an enamelled vessel having
a capacity of 12 quarts and thoroughly mixed, so that the cochineal is
uniformly distributed in the mass. Now have ready about 3 quarts of
nearly boiling water and a thoroughly cleansed soap-stirrer or similar
instrument.
When everything is prepared, quickly pour the hot water upon the
powder in the enamelled vessel and stir rapidly and thoroughly during
the effervescence which immediately takes place. The effervescence
gradually ceases and the result will be a beautiful crimson colored
mass, the hot water having immediately and completely dissolved the
coloring matter of the cochineal. Now, bring the mass into a shallow
box lined with clean white paper and place it to dry in an airy room,
but do not expose it to the air or sunlight. The next day the mass in
the box is thoroughly worked through, this operation being repeated
every day until the mass is dry. It is then again powdered, whereby
it acquires a rose color, and is then sifted. The powder is perfumed
with peppermint oil 1 oz. and clove oil and cassia oil each 5½ ozs.,
sufficient glycerin to prevent dust, being at the same time rubbed
in. With the addition of the glycerin the beautiful crimson color of
the powder reappears. This tooth-powder possesses excellent cleansing
qualities and can be recommended chiefly to persons having yellow
teeth, as well as to smokers whose teeth commence to get black.
_Dr. Hufeland's tooth soap._--Best quality of tallow melted without
acid 14 lbs., soda lye of 38° B. 6½ lbs., potash lye of 20° B. 1 lb.
Further, yellow ochre 1 lb., umber 4½ ozs., and precipitated carbonate
of calcium 3 lbs., stirred together with hot water 2 quarts. Peppermint
oil 5¼ ozs., clove oil 14 drachms.
The kettle with the tallow strained through a cloth is brought upon the
water-bath and the tallow heated to 167° F. The lye heated to about
100° F. is then slowly added to the tallow in the kettle, and, after
stirring for about ¼ hour, the mass is allowed to rest quietly, the
kettle being lightly covered and only a little steam admitted or fire
kept under the kettle, so that saponification does not take place too
rapidly.
Saponification will be slowly effected from the sides of the kettle in
about one hour, the mass in the kettle rising somewhat. This rising
indicates that the process of saponification is going on. The mass
is now again stirred, which must be done carefully and not hastily,
as otherwise the soap readily becomes spumous. When the soap again
lies quietly in the kettle, it will have the appearance of a white
prime grain-soap. Now add the coloring substances and the precipitated
carbonate of calcium and thoroughly stir, so that the mass acquires a
uniform brown color. Then remove the kettle from the water-bath, add
the perfumes with constant stirring, bring the finished tooth soap into
the frame, lightly cover the latter with the wooden lid and let stand
over night. The next day the tooth soap may be cut up into suitable
pieces, which are allowed to dry for about 12 hours and then packed in
tinfoil, etc.
_Tooth-soap._--Castile soap 1 lb., prepared chalk 1 oz., thymol 20
grains, oil of wintergreen 30 drops.
Shave the soap into ribbons, beat it into a paste with a little water,
and add first the prepared chalk and lastly the thymol and wintergreen
oil dissolved in a little water.
_Saponaceous tooth-wash._--White Castile soap 3 ozs., oil of orange
peel 10 drops, oil of cinnamon 5 drops, water 4 ozs., alcohol 12 ozs.
Shave the soap into ribbons; melt with the water in a water-bath,
adding the alcohol while still warm. Continue the heat if necessary,
until solution is effected. When cold, dissolve the oils in the liquid.
CHAPTER XII.
HAIR POMADES, HAIR OILS, AND HAIR TONICS; HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.
To properly preserve the hair it requires to be occasionally oiled, and
the scalp to be frequently cleansed. Pomades and oils serve for the
former purpose, and hair tonics for the latter. For the preparation
of pomades, fats, such as lard, beef-tallow, and beef-marrow, are
principally used, though cocoa butter, cocoanut oil, castor oil,
almond oil, spermaceti, and wax, and, more recently, vaseline are also
employed. For the preparation of hair oils, fat oils, especially olive
oil and almond oil are used, but also poppy oil, peanut oil, sesame
oil, etc. The fats and oils used should not be rancid, for, on the one
hand, the bad odor arising from rancidity is troublesome in perfuming,
and, on the other, what is of still greater importance, rancid fat
injuriously affects the scalp and the growth of the hair. Of the oils
above mentioned, which are sometimes used, poppy oil is a drying oil,
and, therefore, not suitable for the purpose.
Some fats enjoy a special reputation as hair pomades, the property of
strengthening the scalp and promoting the growth of the hair being
ascribed to them. This is especially the case as regards beef marrow
and horse fat,[22] whilst in olden times the bone marrow of the deer
(_cerval medullæ_) and bear's grease were believed to possess this
property. Cleopatra is said to have used the latter, and many ladies
are at the present time under the impression that they apply it to
their hair when they use _Pommade à la graisse d'ours_. Thoroughly
purified lard renders no doubt the same service as the above-mentioned
fats.
[22] Genuine horse fat is obtained from the upper portion of the neck
of the horse.
POMADES. Pomades are prepared by two different methods; the desired
odor is imparted to the fat by the extraction of the flowers of various
plants, or the fat in a semi-congealed state is perfumed with different
volatile oils.
The fats used for pomades should, as above indicated, be as fresh and
pure as possible, so that they will keep for a long time. Fats intended
for fine pomades, for which lard and beef-tallow are chiefly used, are
generally first subjected to purification by, for some time, treating
them with cold water, constantly renewed, and thoroughly washing, so
that all adhering particles of dirt and mucus are removed, and the
pomades prepared from them are better protected against rancidity. For
the removal of the water adhering from washing, the fats are remelted.
Still greater durability is imparted to the fat by adding in remelting
a small quantity of salicylic acid (2¾ drachms of the acid to 2 lbs.
of fat), or of gum benzoin. A small addition of ethyl nitrite also
renders the fats more durable.
The purification of the fat, which generally consists of 2 to 3 parts
lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is frequently effected as follows: Boil
for about one hour 125 lbs. of fat with about 30 gallons of water
containing 1 lb. each of common salt and alum in solution, constantly
removing the scum formed. After standing for several hours, the fat
thus purified is carefully taken off from the sediment and water; it is
then, together with 4 to 6 lbs. of pulverized benzoin, for some time
heated at 167° F., and finally strained into stone jars, which, after
the fat is cold, are closed with a piece of bladder or waxed paper and
kept for use. Fat thus prepared keeps for years.
For _coloring the pomades_ are used: 1. _For red_: Alkannin, cinnabar,
carmine (triturated with a small quantity of sal ammoniac and added
to the fat) and safranin (1 part of it dissolved in 20 parts alcohol
and 80 parts water and added to the melted fat). 2. _For yellow_:
Annotto, turmeric, cadmium sulphide. 3. _For brown_: Cocoa powder and
ochre. 4. _For green_: Chlorophyl. Besides the above-mentioned coloring
substances, a very intense coloring matter for pomades is brought into
commerce under the name "Lederin" by Saltzer & Voigt, of Oker, Germany.
It is manufactured in lemon color, orange, cinnabar, violet, and brown
shades, and 10 to 12 drachms of it, triturated in a porcelain dish with
about 1 lb. of the warm fat, will impart a truly beautiful color to 100
lbs. of fat or oil.
_Fine French Pomades_ (_Flower Pomades_).--In France, especially in
the southern part, where the cultivation of the various flowers, such
as roses, violets, mignonette, héliotrope, etc., is carried on on an
extensive scale, the fine pomades are prepared by the method previously
mentioned (see p. 58 _et seq._).
The maceration or extraction of the flowers is effected as follows: The
fat, generally consisting of 3 parts lard and 1 part beef-tallow, is
melted in an enamelled vessel over the steam or water-bath. The flowers
in a clean linen bag are suspended in the fat, and after covering the
vessel the fat is kept, according to the strength of the perfume of the
respective variety of flower, for a day or two more at a temperature of
from 133° to 145° F. The extracted and exhausted flowers are then taken
out, slightly pressed out, and thrown away. The same operation with
always the same quantities of fresh flowers is then repeated ten to
twelve times with the same fat, until it is sufficiently perfumed. The
pomade thus obtained, to which some white vaseline is frequently added,
is then stirred until cold.
Receipts for some flower pomades are here given:--
_Pommade à la rose._--Extract, in the manner above given, with 6 lbs.
of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, both thoroughly purified, 8 lbs. of
fresh rose leaves. Treat the fat ten to twelve times in the same manner
with an equal quantity of fresh rose leaves.
_Pommade à l'acacia._--Extract 6 lbs. of fresh acacia flowers with 20
lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation ten times with a like quantity of
fresh flowers.
_Pommade à la fleur d'orange._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh orange flowers
with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight times with a like
quantity of fresh flowers.
_Pommade à l'héliotrope._--Extract 8 lbs. of fresh héliotrope flowers
with 8 lbs. of fat, and repeat the operation eight to ten times with an
equal quantity of fresh flowers.
All simple French pomades, for which flowers furnish the perfume, are
prepared in a similar manner. For pomades are chiefly used the flowers
of the geranium, jasmine, mignonette, hyacinth, tuberose, narcissus,
lily, etc., the pomades as a rule receiving the name of the perfume
imparted to them.
POMADES ACCORDING TO THE GERMAN METHOD. Most of the pomades consumed in
Germany are prepared from fresh, purified lard and beef-tallow, though
sometimes additions of wax, spermaceti, stearin, castor-oil, cocoanut
oil, etc., are made, or the pomade is entirely composed of the latter
fats. For inferior qualities of pomades, borax is much used, since it
not only possesses the property of combining a quantity of water with
the fat, but also makes the pomade more durable. Soap dissolved in hot
water is also often added to the fat, whereby not only considerable
water is fixed in the pomade, but the latter also becomes very white
and pliant. In regard to pomades containing borax, it may be mentioned
that safranin has proved a durable substance for coloring the pomades
red, while alkannin suffers alterations.
The fabrication of pomades is very simple. The fat, after being melted,
and somewhat cooled off, is generally vigorously worked or beaten with
a wooden pestle or spatula, until it acquires a frothy, cream-like
appearance. By this treatment the fat also gains in volume, small air
bubbles being inclosed in it. On the other hand, the fat is stirred
until cold, then perfumed and poured into pots.
The following mixtures of fat may serve as suitable foundations for
white pomades:--
I. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs.
II. Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs.
III. Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs.
IV. Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1 lb.
V. Lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil 2 lbs.
VI. Castor oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1 lb.
VII. Lard 6 lbs., cocoanut oil 3 lbs.
VIII. Lard 8 lbs., wax 1 lb., cocoa butter 1 lb.
IX. Pomade fat 12 lbs., soap 4 ozs., dissolved in hot water, borax ½
drachm. This mass will stand about ¼ water.
X. _In summer_: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 7 ozs.
_In winter_: Fat 6 lbs., stearin 4½ ozs.
To either mass given under X, add and combine thoroughly with it 14
drachms of borax dissolved in 1 quart of water.
The pomades, while still warm, are colored and finally perfumed.
For _perfuming_, different volatile oils and perfume substances of
suitable composition are used, 1 to 1½ ozs. of perfume being generally
sufficient for 2 lbs. of fat.
Receipts for the best known and most popular pomades are as follows:--
_Apple pomade._--Digest for some time in the water bath 2 lbs. of fresh
apple parings with 6 lbs. of lard and 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, press,
color yellow, stir until cold, and perfume with 1 oz. amyl valerate,
commonly called "apple oil."
_Bear's grease pomade._--Perfume purified bear's grease 8 lbs., or
benzoated lard 6 lbs. and beef-tallow 2 lbs., with rose-geranium oil
2¾ ozs. and vanilla tincture 2 ozs.
_Quinine pomade No. 1._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2½ lbs.,
quinotannic acid 13 ozs., tincture of cantharides and distilled water
each 8 ozs., Peru balsam 4 ozs., rose-geranium oil 8 drachms.
_Quinine pomade No. 2._--Vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 2 lbs., fat jasmine
oil 1 lb., Peruvian bark extract ½ lb., tannin 5¼ ozs., Peru balsam
3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 11 drachms.
Melt together the vaseline and paraffin, add the Peruvian bark extract
previously rubbed up with as little water as possible, and stir in the
tannin dissolved in the volatile oils.
_Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 1._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow
2 lbs., colored with prepared cocoa powder about 14 ozs., and perfumed
with Peruvian balsam 2¼ ozs., bergamot oil, citronella oil, and eau de
Cologne each 5½ drachms, and oils of cloves, lavender, and cinnamon
each 40 drops.
_Quinine pomade (imitation) No. 2._--Lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2½ lbs.,
cocoa powder 15¾ ozs., Peru balsam 2¼ ozs., cassia oil 1¾ ozs.,
clove oil 2¾ drachms, oil of bitter almonds 10 drops.
_Benzoin pomade._--Digest for several hours in a water bath at 167°
F. 6 lbs. of lard, 2 lbs. of beef-tallow, and 1½ lbs. of pulverized
benzoin, and strain off the fat.
_Densdorf pomade._--Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., yellow wax 1
lb., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 4½ drachms.
_Ice pomade No. 1._--Best olive oil 6 lbs., white vaseline and
spermaceti each 1½ lbs., bergamot oil 3 ozs., bitter almond oil 11
drachms, rose-geranium oil 8¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 5½ drachms.
_Ice pomade No. 2._--Fat almond oil 6 lbs., spermaceti 1½ lbs.,
bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 14 drachms, palma rose oil
2¾ drachms.
_Family pomade (red)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., bergamot
oil 1¾ ozs., oils of lemon, lavender, and cinnamon each 14 drachms.
Color with alkannin.
_Family pomade (white)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., lemon
oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz.
_Family pomade (rose color)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs.,
palma-rose oil, citronella oil, and lavender oil each 1¼ ozs. Color
with alkannin.
_Family pomade (yellow)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs.,
bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms,
thyme oil 5½ drachms. Color with lederin or annotto.
_Family pomade (brown)._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 3 lbs., cassia
oil 1¾ ozs., caraway oil 1 oz., sweet orange oil and clove oil each
11¼ drachms. Color brown with cocoa powder, lederin, or umber.
_Strawberry pomade._--Fresh ripe strawberries 1½ lbs., fresh lard, 6
lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., rose oil 5 drops.
Put the strawberries in a clean linen bag, and digest them for some
time with the fat in the water-bath. Then moderately press the
strawberries, color with alkannin, and finally perfume.
_Fine hair pomade._--Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoanut oil and wax each 1
lb., bergamot oil 3 ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs., geranium oil 5½ drachms,
musk tincture 1 drachm.[23]
[23] A pomade containing musk cannot be used by everyone, since in
nervous persons it may readily cause headache.
_Pomade for promoting the growth of the hair._--Lard 6 lbs.,
beef-tallow 2 lbs., tincture of cantharides 10½ ozs., lemon oil 2½
ozs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cinnamon oil 1½ drachms.
_Heliotrope pomade, finest quality._--Lard treated with benzoin 6 lbs.,
beef tallow treated with benzoin 2 lbs., heliotropin 3¾ drachms,
dissolved in a small quantity of the fat heated to about 111° F.;
neroli oil 35 drops.
_Heliotrope pomade._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef tallow 2 lbs., Peru
balsam 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., clove oil 8¼ drachms, artificial
bitter-almond oil 1½ drachms.
_Jasmine pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef tallow 2 lbs.,
fat jasmine oil 2⅖ lbs., rose oil 25 drops.
_Emperor pomade._--Melt together 7⅗ lbs. of fresh olive oil, 2 lbs.
of castor oil, and 2⅖ lbs. of spermaceti. Perfume with fat jasmine
oil 7 ozs., Turkish rose oil and bergamot oil each 2¾ drachms,
neroli oil 50 drops, geranium oil 20 drops, orris-root oil 10 drops,
heliotropin ½ drachm, and cumarin 1/10 drachm.
Dissolve the heliotropin and cumarin in a portion of the fat heated to
111° F., add the solution, together with the other perfume-materials,
to the fat before it congeals, then pour the pomade into jars and allow
it to cool slowly.
_Macassar pomade._--Castor oil 6 lbs., vaseline 1½ lbs., wax 1
lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs., cassia oil and cinnamon oil each 1 oz.,
rose-geranium oil 2¾ drachms.
_Portugal pomade._--Fresh lard 4 lbs., white vaseline 1 lb., wax 3½
ozs., Portugal oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., caraway oil 2¾
drachms.
_Herb pomade._--Melt together fresh lard 8 lbs., Japanese wax and
bayberry oil each 3½ ozs., improve the color with chlorophyl, and
perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms, bergamot oil 11 drachms, clove oil
5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, and a few drops of curly mint oil.
_Lanolin pomade._--Benzoated fat 4 lbs., benzoinized olive oil and
lanolin each 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cinnamon oil 7¼ drachms,
clove oil 5½ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm
dissolved in a portion of the fat heated to 111° F. Color red with
alkannin.
_Oriental pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2
lbs., bergamot oil 2 ozs., clove oil 1¼ ozs., neroli oil 5½ drachms,
musk tincture ½ drachm. Color red with lederin.
_Paraffin ice pomade._--Castor oil or olive oil 6 lbs., paraffin 1 lb.,
bergamot oil 3½ ozs., palma rose oil 11¼ drachms.
_Neroli pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs.,
fat jasmine oil and fat rose oil each 1¾ ozs., oil of bitter almonds
2 drops, nerolin 1½ drachms dissolved in a small portion of the fat
heated to 111° F. Color pale yellow.
_Cheap pomade (red, yellow, white)._--Lard 5 lbs., beef-tallow or
cocoanut oil 2 lbs., perfumed with about 3½ ozs. of fruit ether.
_Mignonette pomade._--Benzoated lard 4 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow and
fat mignonette oil each 2 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 4¾ ozs. Color
pale green with chlorophyl.
_Castor oil pomade No. 1._--Melt together 4 lbs. of castor oil and 11¼
ozs. of spermaceti and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs., and geranium
oil 6½ drachms.
_Castor oil pomade No. 2._--Castor oil and fine olive oil each 2 lbs.,
yellow wax 7 ozs., bergamot oil and sweet orange oil each 14 drachms,
clove oil 8¼ drachms, neroli oil 2¼ drachms.
_Princess pomade._--Fresh lard 8 lbs., cocoa butter and wax each 1 lb.,
bergamot oil 3½ ozs., lemon oil and lavender oil each 14 drachms,
neroli oil 6¾ drachms. Color rose color with alkannin.
_Fine pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., benzoated beef-tallow 2 lbs.,
lemon oil 2 ozs., sweet orange oil 1¼ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz. Color
yellow with annotto.
_Beef-marrow pomade._--Melt together 4 lbs. of lard and 1 lb. of
beef-marrow, or, 4 lbs of lard, 14 ozs. of spermaceti, and 1¾ ozs.
of yellow wax, color yellow and perfume with lemon oil 14 drachms,
bergamot oil 6¾ drachms, and a few drops of clove oil.
_Rogers's pomade for producing a beard._--Lard 7½ lbs., yellow wax ½
lb., fine cantharides powder 10½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., oils of
lemon, cinnamon and lavender each 11 drachms.
_Rose pomade._--Fresh lard 6 lbs., fresh beef-tallow 2 lbs., palma rosa
oil 2¾ ozs., citronella oil 11 drachms, alkannin for coloring 1 to
1½ ozs.
_Fine rose pomade._--Fresh lard 2½ lbs., spermaceti and fat almond oil,
each 3½ ozs., rose geranium oil 1¼ ozs., bitter almond oil 1½ ozs.
_Finest rose pomade._--Fat rose oil 2⅖ lbs., spermaceti 7 ozs.,
white wax 3½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1½ ozs., rose oil and bergamot
oil, each ½ drachm. Color red with alkannin.
_Salicylic pomade._--Fresh lard 7 lbs., white wax 1 lb., fat jasmine
oil 1⅖ lbs. Peru balsam 5¼ ozs., salicylic acid 2 ozs., dissolved in
alcohol 4 ozs.
_Victoria pomade._--Melt together 3⅕ lbs. of fat almond oil and 10½
ozs. of white wax, and perfume the mixture, when quite cooled off, with
fat jasmine oil ½ lb., rose oil and geranium oil each 1 drachm. Color
rose color with alkannin.
_Tonka pomade._--Lard 7½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., cumarin 4½ drachms,
dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat.
_Fine vanilla pomade._--Benzoated lard 6 lbs., beef-tallow 2 lbs.,
vanilla 2¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the warm fat.
_Vanilla pomade._--Lard and vaseline each 2 lbs., wax 3½ ozs., Peruvian
balsam 1⅛ ozs., bitter-almond oil ½ drachm, cinnamon oil 20 drops.
_Violet pomade._--Lard 4 lbs., vaseline 2 lbs., wax 5½ ozs., spermaceti
1¾ ozs., fat orris-root oil 2 lbs., bergamot oil 3¾ drachms,
clove oil 2¼ drachms, cinnamon oil ¾ drachm, rose oil ½ drachm.
_Walnut pomade._--Work in a mortar to a uniform paste ½ lb. of fresh
green walnut-shells and 2 ozs. of alum. Digest the paste with 2⅖
lbs. of benzoinized lard and tallow in the water-bath until the fat
appears clear. Then strain off the fat, stir until cold, and perfume
with 1½ drachms of neroli oil and ½ drachm of rose oil.
VASELINE POMADES.--Vaseline pomades consisting neither of an animal
nor of a vegetable fat, but almost entirely of a mineral fat, form
a special division of pomades. On account of its good properties
and cheapness, vaseline, which is obtained from petroleum residues,
etc., has for several years past been much used in the preparation
of pomades. The pomades prepared from vaseline are not only very
suitable for oiling the hair, as they never become rancid, but may also
advantageously be used as a remedy for chapped skin, inflammation,
cuts, burns, etc. For pomades odorless vaseline has to be used, 1 lb.
of it requiring about 5½ to 8½ drachms of perfume. Lederin, which has
been previously mentioned, is best suited for coloring the pomades.
When used for pomades vaseline, though by itself sufficient for the
purpose, frequently receives an addition of paraffin, wax (mostly
ceresin), and lard. To vaseline pomades intended for export to warm
climates, an addition of ¼ to ⅛ ceresin is required.
The following mixtures give good foundations for vaseline pomade:--
I. Yellow or white vaseline 2 parts, paraffin 1.
II. Vaseline 5 parts, paraffin or ceresin 1.
III. Vaseline 3 parts, ceresin 1.
IV. Vaseline and lard each 10 parts, ceresin 1.
The pomades are prepared by first melting the paraffin or ceresin
and then slowly stirring in the vaseline. When the fat commences to
thicken, the perfume is added and the pomade poured into jars or tin
boxes.
A few good receipts for vaseline pomades are here given.
_Bouquet vaseline pomade._--White vaseline and fresh lard each 2 lbs.,
ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 6¾ drachms,
cinnamon oil 5½ drachms, neroli oil 3¾ drachms, geranium oil 2¾
drachms.
_Family vaseline pomade._--Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., oils of
bergamot and lemons each 1 oz., citronella oil 12¾ drachms, cassia
oil 8¼ drachms, lavender oil 4½ drachms, clove oil 3¾ drachms; _or_,
bergamot oil 2 ozs., palma-rose oil 1¾ ozs., lavender oil 5½ drachms.
_Lily of the valley vaseline pomade._--White vaseline and fresh lard
each 2 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., ylang-ylang oil 2¾
drachms, licari oil ½ drachm.
_Neroli vaseline pomade._--Vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin 2 lbs., geranium
oil 1 oz., nerolin 3¾ drachms, dissolved in a small portion of the
warm fat.
_Mignonette vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 2 lbs., paraffin 1 lb.,
bergamot oil 9 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, artificial bitter almond
oil 15 drops.
_Portugal vaseline pomade._--Pale yellow vaseline 10 lbs., ceresin
3½ ozs., Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender oil 5½
drachms.
_Rose vaseline pomade_, No. 1.--Vaseline 6 lbs., ceresin 3½ ozs.,
rose-geranium oil 1¼ ozs., nerolin ¾ drachm. Colored with lederin.
_Rose vaseline pomade_, No. 2.--Vaseline and lard each 2 lbs., ceresin
7 ozs., geranium oil 1½ ozs., bergamot oil 5½ drachms, musk tincture
½ drachm. Color red with alkannin.
_Fine vaseline pomade_ (_yellow_).--Yellow vaseline and castor oil each
2 lbs., yellow wax 7 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., bergamot oil 6¾ drachms,
nerolin ½ drachm.
_Vaseline pomade_ (_red_).--White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin or ceresin
14 ozs., palma-rose oil, citronella oil and lavender oil each 11¼
drachms. Color red with lederin or alkannin.
_Vaseline pomade_ (_white_).--White vaseline 4 lbs., paraffin 14 ozs.,
bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 2¾ drachms, thyme oil 1½ drachms.
_Virginia vaseline pomade._--Digest for some time in the water-bath
2 lbs. of white vaseline, 2½ ozs. each of yellow wax and pulverized
benzoin, and 11 drachms of Peru balsam. Then filter and perfume with
bergamot oil 14 drachms, citronella oil 1½ drachms.
This pomade serves not only for preserving the scalp, but is also a
good remedy for tetter, cutaneous eruptions, etc.
_Victoria vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 5 lbs., paraffin 1 lb.,
bergamot oil 1½ ozs., rose-geranium oil 1 oz., lavender 8¼ drachms.
Color red with alkannin or lederin.
_Extra fine vaseline pomade._--White vaseline 4 lbs., ceresin 10½ ozs.,
bergamot oil 1⅛ ozs., lemon oil 9 drachms, palmarosa oil 2¼ drachms.
_Stick pomades._--Besides the soft, unctuous pomades thus far treated
of, we have a solid product--the so-called stick-pomades. These
pomades, which serve for the better fastening of the hair, are brought
into commerce either as _wax pomades_ or _resin pomades_, the former
being prepared from a mixture of lard, tallow, and wax, and the latter
from tallow, wax, and resin, to which some Venetian turpentine may be
added.
The following mixtures give good foundations for stick pomades:--
I. French flower pomade 4 parts, white wax 1½.
II. Fresh beef tallow 3 parts, fresh lard 1, wax 1½.
III. Best beef tallow 5 parts, yellow wax 1.
IV. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2½, resin 1, Venetian turpentine ¼.
V. Tallow 8½ parts, resin ¾, ceresin ¾.
VI. Tallow 4 parts, pale resin 1, yellow wax ¼.
VII. Tallow 10 parts, wax 2, pale resin 1.
VIII. Olive oil 2 parts, pure stearin 1, yellow wax 1.
IX. Tallow 9½ parts, ceresin ½.
X. Best beef-tallow 10 parts, yellow wax 1½.
The usual process of manufacturing stick-pomade is as follows: Melt
the fat, wax and resin in the water-bath, then strain the mixture and
cool it off by constant stirring until a thin film is formed upon
the surface. Then perfume and pour into tin moulds of oval, round
or square form and of various sizes. A dozen of such tin moulds of
the same size are generally soldered together and are provided below
either with a hinged piece, or they are open. In the latter case they
are placed upon a tin support with a high edge which serves for the
reception for the fat escaping from any of the moulds. The cold pomades
are pushed out by means of sticks of wood fitting exactly into the
moulds. They are then wrapped in tinfoil, labelled and brought into
commerce.
Stick-pomades are either white, rose color, yellow, brown or black;
alkannin, lederin, umber, Frankfort black, etc., being used as coloring
substances.
In the following some receipts for wax and resin pomades are given:--
_Rose-wax pomade._--Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white-wax 3
lbs., colored with alkannin. _Perfume_: Lemon oil 1 oz., lavender oil
14 drachms, geranium oil 11 drachms, clove oil 6¾ drachms; _or_,
bergamot oil 1 oz., oils of geranium, cassia and Portugal, each 10
drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms.
_Black-wax pomade._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 1½ lbs., colored
with Frankfort black. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 13½
drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 3½ ozs., citronella oil 6¾ drachms.
_Blonde wax pomade._--Best tallow 6 lbs., best lard 2 lbs., white or
yellow wax 3 lbs. _Perfume_: Clove oil 1¼ ozs., lemon oil, bergamot oil
and Peru balsam each 14 drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 2¾ ozs., cassia
oil 5½ drachms, thyme oil 2¾ drachms.
_Brown wax pomade._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., colored
with umber. _Perfume_: Citronella oil 2 ozs., clove oil 12¼ drachms,
bergamot oil 8¼ drachms, anise-seed oil 6¾ drachms; _or_, bergamot
oil 2½ ozs., cassia oil 1¼ ozs., clove oil 5½ drachms.
_Cheap-wax pomade_ (_color as desired_).--Best tallow 9½ lbs., ceresin
½ lb. Perfume: Lavender oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., palma-rose
oil 11 drachms; _or_, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., palmarosa oil 1 oz.,
lavender oil ½ oz.
_Resin pomade No. 1._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2 lbs., pale
resin 1 lb. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms,
lavender oil 11 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, thyme oil 5½ drachms.
_Resin pomade No. 2._--Best tallow 10 lbs., yellow wax 2½ lbs., pale
resin 1 lb., Venetian turpentine 4 ozs. _Perfume_: Cassia oil 2¾
ozs., lavender oil 1 oz., lemon-grass oil 11 drachms, clove oil and
thyme oil each 5½ drachms.
_Cheap resin pomade._--Best tallow 8½ lbs., pale resin and pale ceresin
each 13 ozs. _Perfume_: Bergamot oil 3½ ozs., cassia oil 9½ drachms,
thyme oil 5 drachms; _or_, Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz.,
lavender oil 5½ drachms.
HAIR OILS.--Like pomades, hair oils are perfumed either with volatile
oils or by treatment with larger quantities of fresh flowers. The oils
obtained in the latter manner are known as _Huiles antiques_, and are
the finest and most expensive. Vaseline oil, which is cheap and does
not become rancid, is also at present much used as hair oil. To make
the fat oils used as hair oils more durable and to protect them from
becoming rancid, they are also treated with benzoin. For this purpose
digest for three hours, with frequent stirring, in the water-bath 100
lbs. of the oil with 1 lb. of pulverized benzoin. With the exception
of alkannin for red-colored oil and chlorophyl for herb oils, no
coloring substances are used for hair oils. About 5½ to 8¼ drachms of
perfume are required for 1 lb. of oil.
The _Huiles antiques_ are obtained as follows:--
_Huile antique à la rose._--Extract in the cold 1 lb. of fresh rose
leaves with 1 lb. of best olive oil, and with the oil pressed off,
extract, six times in succession, equal quantities of fresh leaves,
leaving the rose-leaves each time in contact with the oil for 10 to 12
hours. The oil, when sufficiently perfumed, is filtered.
_Huile antique au jasmin._--Extract in the manner above given 1 lb. of
fresh jasmin flowers with 1 lb. of olive oil.
In the same manner the perfume of the different flowers can be
withdrawn and utilized.
A number of receipts for the most popular hair oils are here given.
_Alpine herb oil._--Color slightly with chlorophyl 10 lbs. of best
quality of olive oil and perfume with peppermint oil 2 ozs., lavender
oil 1 oz., caraway oil 6½ drachms.
_Flower hair oil._--Color slightly with alkannin 10 lbs. of benzoated
olive oil of best quality, and perfume with geranium oil 2¼ ozs.,
bergamot oil and lavender oil each 9 drachms, petit-grain oil 4½
drachms, and angelica oil 5 drops.
_Peruvian bark hair oil._--Extract for some time 1 lb. of pulverized
Peruvian bark with 10 lbs. of strongly heated benzoinized olive oil.
Then color the oil red with alkannin, and when cold, perfume with
bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 14 drachms, rose-geranium oil 2¼
drachms, neroli oil ½ drachm, and cinnamon oil 5 drops; _or_, with
bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., lemon oil 1⅛ oz., geranium oil 3¼ drachms.
_Peru hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Peru balsam 3½ ozs.,
cassia oil 11 drachms.
_Burdock root hair oil No. 1._--Digest at a moderate heat 8 lbs. of
olive oil or sesame oil with 2 lbs. of fresh burdock roots; then pour
off the oil from the roots, add 7 ozs. of castor oil, color with
alkannin, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs. and palma-rose oil 1 oz.
_Burdock root hair oil No. 2._--Color 10 lbs. of benzoated olive oil
pale green with chlorophyl, and perfume with bergamot oil 2 ozs.,
geranium oil 1¼ ozs., and lavender oil 11 drachms.
_Macassar hair oil No. 1._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., geranium oil
and lemon oil each 1¼ ozs., cassia oil 14 drachms. Color red with
alkannin.
_Macassar oil No. 2._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored with
alkannin, and perfumed with bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs.,
cinnamon oil 1 drachm, musk essence 1 drachm.
_Neroli hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., nerolin 5½ drachms
dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil, rose oil 10 drops.
_Mignonette hair oil No. 1._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cassia oil
1¼ ozs., geranium oil and tolu-balsam tincture each 11 drachms, nerolin
1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil.
_Mignonette hair oil No. 2._--Benzoated olive oil 4 lbs., fat
mignonette oil 3 lbs., tolu-balsam tincture 3½ ozs.
_Fine hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., lemon oil 1¼ ozs.,
bergamot oil 15¾ drachms, lavender oil 3¾ drachms, neroli oil
2¾ drachms, rosemary oil 1½ drachms, petit-grain oil 1 drachm.
_Cheap hair oil_ (_red or yellow_).--Sesame oil or purified colza oil
10 lbs., bergamot oil 2¼ ozs., citronella oil 1⅛ ozs., mirbane oil
10 drachms; _or,_ Portugal oil 2¾ ozs., cassia oil 1 oz., lavender
oil 5½ drachms.
_Portugal hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., Portugal oil 2 ozs.,
bergamot oil 1½ ozs., caraway oil 3¼ drachms.
_Jasmine hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat jasmine oil 1½
lbs., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., clove oil 11 drachms, rose-geranium oil
4½ drachms, nerolin 1 drachm, dissolved in a small quantity of warm
oil, thyme oil ½ drachm.
_Vaseline hair oil No. 1._--White vaseline oil 8 lbs., white olive oil
2 lbs., colored red with alkannin, bergamot oil 1¼ ozs., lavender oil
and lemon oil each 11 drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms.
_Vaseline hair oil No. 2._--Yellow vaseline oil 8 lbs., olive oil 2
lbs., cassia oil 1½ ozs., lemon-grass oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz.
_Vanilla hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., vanillin, dissolved
in a small quantity of warm oil, and Peru balsam, each 5½ drachms,
bergamot oil 1 drachm, musk tincture 10 drops.
_Ylang-ylang hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 5 lbs., ylang-ylang oil 2
drachms, rose oil 1 drachm, neroli oil 10 drops.
_Philocome hair oil._--Melt together benzoated olive oil and yellow wax
each 2 lbs., and when about half cold, add fat orris-root oil and fat
jasmine oil, each 1½ lbs., rose-geranium oil 1 drachm, and stir until
cold.
_Sultana hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored red with
alkannin, bergamot oil 1½ ozs., lavender oil 8 drachms, cinnamon oil 7
drachms, neroli oil 5½ drachms, geranium oil 3¼ drachms, musk tincture
1 drachm.
_Rose hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., colored pale red with
alkannin, geranium oil 2 ozs., bergamot oil 1 oz., cassia oil 14
drachms.
_Tonka hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., cumarin 10 drachms,
dissolved in a small quantity of warm oil.
_Violet hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., fat orris-root oil 3
lbs., bergamot oil 6½ drachms, clove oil 3¼ drachms, cinnamon oil 1
drachm, rose oil ½ drachm.
_Victoria hair oil._--Benzoated olive oil 10 lbs., slightly colored
with alkannin, palma-rose oil, lavender oil, and citronella oil each 1
oz., musk tincture 1½ drachms.
_Cheap hair oil No. 1._--Sunflower oil 500 drachms, bergamot oil 3,
rosemary oil 1, lemon oil 1, neroli and thyme oil each ½.
_Cheap hair oil No. 2._--Sunflower oil 500 drachms, lemon oil 2,
rosemary oil 3, lavender oil 5, geranium oil 1, musk tincture ¼,
thyme oil 1.
BANDOLINES.--Bandolines are mucilaginous liquids, and are prepared
from substances forming mucilage, such as gum-tragacanth, gum-arabic,
Japanese gelatine, quince seeds, flaxseed, etc. Gum-arabic adhering
very firmly, its use, however, cannot be recommended. The substances
above mentioned are heated with water until the mucilaginous matter
is extracted. The latter is then strained through a cloth, and the
mucilaginous, thick, transparent liquid thus obtained perfumed.
Volatile oils dissolving with difficulty in the liquid, an _Extrait_
is generally used for perfuming, or an aromatic water for dissolving
the gums. If the bandoline is to be colored, an ammoniacal carmine
solution is to be used. Aniline colors should not be employed for the
purpose, since they precipitate upon the scalp and hair, even if only
traces of them are present.
Bandolines are not very durable; their keeping properties may, however,
be improved by the addition of benzoic or boric acid.
_Rose bandoline._--Gum-tragacanth 1 lb., rose water 7 lbs.
Bring the pulverized gum-tragacanth into a suitable earthenware or
enamelled vessel, pour the rose water over it, and let it stand in a
right warm place until by the swelling of the gum a thick mucilage is
formed. If the latter is to remain white, it is first strained through
a coarse linen cloth and then through a finer one; if, however, the
bandoline is to be rose color, triturate in a mortar 1 to 1½ drachms of
best carmine with as little ammonia as possible, and distribute this
coloring matter in the mucilage. For the reception of the bandoline
jars with a sufficiently wide mouth for the index finger to reach to
the bottom are best.
_Almond bandoline._--Allow 5 lbs. of rose water and 1¼ ozs. of quince
seed to stand, with frequent shaking, for 24 hours. Then strain and
perfume with 2 drachms of bitter almond oil.
BRILLIANTINE.--Brilliantine is very popular for giving lustre to the
hair of the head and the beard, and in fact, if correctly prepared, it
has many advantages, since, owing to its composition, it considerably
decreases, even if it does not entirely prevent, the formation of the
annoying dandruff.
_Flower brilliantine No. 1._--Chemically pure glycerin 1½ ozs.,
alcoholic extract No. 2 from French-flower pomade No. 24 10½ ozs.,
French _huile antique_ as much as required.
Vigorously shake the glycerin and alcoholic pomade extract in a glass
flask until a uniform fluid is formed, which should be clear as water.
To give it, however, an oily appearance, carefully mix with it a little
sanders-wood tincture and turmeric tincture. Fill the brilliantine
glasses half full with the above mixture and fill up the glasses with
French _huile antique_ of the same flower-perfume as the respective
alcoholic flower-pomade extract, but do not shake, this being done only
when used.
Owing to the content of glycerin, which, as well known, is
non-volatile, the consumption of this brilliantine is very economical,
while it is made very agreeable by the fine French flower perfumes.
If it is desired to prepare the brilliantine at less cost, pure alcohol
may be substituted for the pomade extract and any perfumed hair oil for
the French _huile antique_.
_Brilliantine No. 2._--For brilliantine of quality II, the glasses are
first filled half full with perfumed hair oil and then filled up with
non-perfumed alcohol slightly colored with sanders-wood tincture or
turmeric tincture. Glycerin is not used, and, hence, in this case the
oil will be on the bottom and the alcohol, being lighter, on top.
This brilliantine, containing no glycerin, is not so economical as the
preceding. It evaporates quite rapidly and sometimes makes the hair
hard, especially that of persons having naturally dry hair. However,
this second quality is also quite popular and the perfumer must satisfy
the demands of his customers as much as possible.
_Brilliantine No. 3._--Castor oil 10 lbs., pure alcohol 5 lbs.,
Portugal oil 7 ozs., clove oil 1¾ ozs., petit-grain oil 1 oz.,
cassia oil 1 oz., citronella oil 11 drachms.
Mix the alcohol and castor oil in a glass-flask, then add the volatile
oils and shake vigorously. If the castor oil is pure and genuine, it
forms an intimate mixture with the alcohol; if, on the other hand,
traces of oil appear on the surface of the fluid, the castor oil is
adulterated with other fat oils and unsuitable for this purpose.
The castor oil should also be as fresh as possible and, under no
conditions, rancid.
If this brilliantine is desired of a somewhat yellowish color, the
object may be attained by the addition of sanders-wood tincture or
turmeric tincture.
That this brilliantine is of an inferior quality is shown by its
composition. It has the further disadvantage that it plasters the
hair, especially when the castor oil becomes old. However, there are
consumers with whom this quality is quite popular.
The following formulas for brilliantine are taken from various
sources:--
I. Veal fat 4 ozs., spermaceti 2 ozs., castor oil 12 ozs., oil of
bitter almonds 1 drop, oil of cloves 10 drops, oil of bergamot 20
drops. Melt together the first three ingredients, and add the perfumes
when nearly cold.
II. Almond oil 2½ lbs., spermaceti ½ lb., oil of lemon 3 ozs. Melt
the spermaceti at a low temperature; add the oil and heat until all
flakes disappear. Let the jars into which it is to be poured be warm,
and then cool as slowly as possible to insure good crystals.
The following, although somewhat peculiar, is offered as a good
brilliantine:--
III. Honey 1 fluid oz., glycerin and Cologne water each ½ fluid oz.,
alcohol 2 fluid ozs. Mix.
HAIR TONICS.--Hair tonics serve for cleansing and invigorating
the scalp and for preventing the hair from falling out. Glycerin
having a beneficial effect upon the scalp is much used as one of the
constituents. The tonics also frequently contain ingredients said
to promote the growth of the hair, such as Peruvian bark extract,
quinine, tincture of cantharides, and substances containing tannin.
Hair tonics containing tincture of cantharides should, however, not be
too frequently used, as otherwise an excessive stimulation of the scalp
might be the result, which would be more injurious than beneficial to
the growth of the hair.
Some receipts for hair tonics are here given.
_Eau Athénienne._--Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, vanilla tincture
1¼ lb., cumarin tincture 7 ozs., bergamot oil 3½ ozs., rose-geranium
oil 11 drachms, clove oil 14 drachms.
After 8 days, add 1 quart of rose water and mix thoroughly.
_Florida water No. 1._--Alcohol 50 quarts, best lavender oil 3 lbs.,
bergamot oil 1 lb., African rose-geranium oil ½ lb., tinctures of
sanders-wood and turmeric each 11 drachms, distilled water 16 quarts.
The alcohol, volatile oils, and tinctures are intimately mixed in
a glass balloon, then allowed to stand two to three weeks when
the distilled water is added and the whole vigorously agitated.
After adding the water the fluid becomes very turbid and requires
several weeks to clarify. It is then filtered through paper. If,
notwithstanding filtering, it should remain somewhat turbid, bring a
small quantity of carbonate of magnesia upon the filter.
_Florida water No. 2._--Alcohol 25 quarts, lavender oil 7 ozs.,
palmarosa oil 8 ozs., Portugal oil and red thyme oil each 3½ ozs.,
tinctures of sanders-wood and turmeric each 5½ drachms, rain-water 10
quarts.
Proceed in the same manner as given for Florida water No. 1.
_Eau de Cologne hair tonic._--Alcohol 8 quarts, oils of bergamot and
lemons each 1¼ ozs., lavender oil 11 drachms, rosemary oil 5½ drachms,
glycerin of 28° B. 3½ ozs. After 8 days add 7 ozs. of bicarbonate of
soda dissolved in 2½ quarts of distilled water.
_Eau de quinine._--Alcohol of best quality 20 quarts, tinctures of
gall-nuts and Peruvian bark each 2 quarts, vanilla tincture 1 quart,
bergamot oil 7 ozs., African rose-geranium oil 3½ ozs., clove oil 14
drachms, glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 4 lbs., boiled with
filtered rain-water 12 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb. dissolved in 1
quart of water.
The alcohol, tinctures, and volatile oils are brought into a glass
balloon and after vigorous agitation allowed to stand 8 days for
the volatile oils to dissolve. The decoction of Panama wood is then
added, next the bicarbonate of soda solution, and finally the whole
is thoroughly agitated. The Panama-wood decoction should not be added
while hot, as otherwise the glass balloon might burst. Color the water
with cochineal tincture or henna tincture.
_Eau de quinine_ (_imitation_).--Alcohol 25 quarts, vanilla tincture
No. 2, 2 quarts, Portugal oil 1 lb., palmarosa oil 8 ozs., clove
oil 3½ ozs., glycerin of 28° B. 3 lbs., Panama wood 3 lbs., boiled
in rain-water 20 quarts, bicarbonate of soda 1 lb., dissolved in
rain-water 1 quart. Proceed in the manner given for genuine _Eau de
quinine_. Color with henna tincture.
_Honey water._--Alcohol of best quality 8 quarts, orris-root tincture 1
quart, angelica tincture 1 lb., tonka-bean extract 1¾ ozs., turmeric
tincture, as coloring matter, 5½ drachms, Portugal oil 7¾ ozs.,
lemon oil 1¾ ozs., citronella oil 5½ drachms. After 8 days add 1
liter of orange-flower water.
_Glycerin hair tonic._--Glycerin of 28° B. 1 quart, borax 1 oz., rose
water 2 quarts, alcohol 4 ozs., oils of petit-grain and cloves each 2
drachms, rosemary oil 4 drachms.
Dissolve the borax in the water, the perfume in the alcohol, and mix
all together. It should be clear. Color yellow, if desired, with
saffron tincture.
_Eau lustral_ (_hair restorative_).--Castor oil 2 quarts, linseed oil
and tincture of cantharides each 4 ozs., alcohol 13 quarts, bergamot
oil 2 ozs., lemon oil 1 oz., clove oil ½ oz., neroli oil 2 drachms.
Mix the two fat oils and dissolve them in the alcohol by agitation.
Then add the tincture of cantharides and the perfumes, and color red
with cochineal tincture or henna tincture.
_Tea hair tonic._--Bay rum 2 ozs., glycerin 2 ozs., alcohol 2 ozs.,
infusion of black tea 10 ozs. Mix and perfume to suit. The tea
infusion should be made very strong, say 1 oz. of best tea (best
quality) to 10 ozs. of boiling water, let stand till cool, strain, and
add the other ingredients.
_Locock's lotion for the hair._--Expressed oil of nutmeg 5 fluid ozs.,
olive oil and stronger water of ammonia each 20 fluid ozs., spirit
of rosemary 40 fluid ozs., rose water sufficient to make 20 pints.
The above should be mixed with skill, best by gradually pouring the
combined oils, with constant stirring, into the stronger water of
ammonia, previously diluted with the spirit, and afterwards slowly
incorporating the rose water.
_Shampoo lotion._--New England rum 1 pint, bay rum 12 ozs., glycerin 2
ozs., carbonate of ammonium 1 oz., borax 2 ozs.
_Shampoo liquid._--The readiest agent to produce a good lather upon the
hair of the head is a solution of potassa or soda or a dilute water of
ammonia. The latter, however, owing to its penetrating odor, is not
usually liked.
The following combinations will be found serviceable:--
I. Solution of potassa 4 fluid ozs., borax 1 oz., bay rum ½ fluid
oz., tincture of quillaga ½ fluid oz., water enough to make 16 fluid
ozs. This may be scented according to taste.
II. Fresh eggs 3, spirit of soap 1½ fluid ozs., carbonate of potassium
160 grains, water of ammonia 160 drops, oil-sugar of cumarin 8 grains,
oils of rose and bergamot each 2 drops, French geranium oil 1 drop,
almond oil 1 drop, rose water 27 fluid ozs. Thoroughly beat the 3 eggs,
and then dilute with the rose water. Then add the other ingredients.
Oil-sugar of cumarin is prepared by triturating 1 part of cumarin with
999 parts of sugar of milk.
_Dandruff cures._--I. Ointment of nitrate of mercury 1 drachm,
petrolatum 7 drachms. Mix. Cut the hair short and keep well brushed,
and apply the ointment every night for a fortnight.
II. Red oxide of mercury 10 grains, ammoniated mercury 10 grains,
petrolatum 1 oz. Mix, and apply every night.
III. Corrosive sublimate 30 grains, glycerin 5 fluid ozs., Cologne
water 5 fluid ozs., water sufficient to make 15 fluid ozs. Mix to make
lotion No. 1.
Beta naphthol 120 grains, alcohol 20 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No.
2.
Salicylic acid 120 grains, compound tincture of benzoin 20 fluid
drachms, olive oil 10 fluid ozs. Mix to make lotion No. 3.
Wash the head thoroughly with terebene soap, rinse well, and dry
thoroughly; then rub in some of solution No. 1 and allow to dry, then
use No. 2 in a like manner, and finally apply No. 3. The treatment
should be carried out daily for a month, and then every alternate day
for a fortnight. The dandruff disappears in a few days, and the hair in
a short time becomes vigorous and supple.
_Dandruff lotion._--Chloral hydrate 1 drachm, glycerin 4 drachms, bay
rum 8 ozs.
_Bay rum._--Genuine bay rum, as brought into commerce from St. Thomas,
is said to be prepared by twice distilling a fine quality of rum
with the leaves and berries of _Myrcia acris_ or the bayberry tree.
The berries are much richer in volatile oil than the leaves, but on
account of the height of the trees, the gathering of the berries is
connected with so many difficulties and the harvest so scanty, that the
manufacturers prefer to mix leaves and berries in a certain proportion.
The following directions for preparing bay rum are given in Schimmel &
Co.'s reports:--
I. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., water 4 lbs., bay oil 5½ drachms,
pimento oil 2¼ drachms, clove oil 10 drops. Mix, let stand for several
days and filter.
II. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 4 lbs., bay oil 15 drachms.
Mix, let stand for 2 weeks, and then add 8 lbs. of best Jamaica rum.
This bay rum is said to be equal to the imported.
Another receipt for bay rum is as follows:--
III. Alcohol of 95 per cent. 1 quart, rectified spirit of 60 per cent.
14 quarts, bay oil 1 oz., loaf sugar 4 ozs.
Beat up the sugar with the oil and add the alcohol; then the spirit,
and finally filter.
Mierzinski gives the following formulæ for bay rum:--
IV. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 40 drops, oil of mace 1 grain, oil of
orange 20 drops, Jamaica rum 1 oz., water enough to make 16 ozs. Digest
2 or 3 weeks, and filter through magnesia.
V. Alcohol 8 ozs., oil of bay 2 drachms, oil of cloves 1 drop, mace 20
grains, water warmed to 80° F. to make 12 ozs. Dissolve the oils in the
alcohol, digest the mace in the solution for a few days, filter and add
the water. The whole is allowed to stand, with occasional agitation,
for several days, and filtered through magnesia.
VI. Jamaica rum 36 ozs., 95 per cent. alcohol 36 ozs., oil of bay ½
oz., oil of pimento 1 drop, acetic ether 4 drops. Allow to stand at
least 3 weeks before using.
HAIR DYES.--The requirements of a good hair-dye are that it can be
readily applied, that it contains no injurious substances, and that
the coloration be as natural and durable as possible. These demands
are difficult to fulfil, and it cannot be said that there is one
of the ordinary hair dyes which in every respect comes up to them.
Black hair dyes give the most natural coloration, but the peculiar
shade of blue-black hair cannot be imitated. The medium colors, light
brown and blonde, are the least natural. Most dyes allow of rapid
coloration, though, in order to make the deception more complete, a
gradual coloration is by many persons preferred. Such gradual, though
only very slightly darker coloration, is attained by the use of hair
oils and certain animal fats containing a slight content of sulphur or
iron, such as freshly expressed egg oil and neat's-foot oil. It was
formerly believed that egg oil, if used in time, would even prevent the
hair from turning gray. The gradual darkening of the hair may also be
effected by agents, which are converted into colored combinations only
by the atmospheric oxygen or the content of sulphur in the hair, such
as extract from nut shells, tannin, pyrogallic acid and many metals,
the latter chiefly in the form of pomades or hair oil. Dilute acids
used for some time make the hair somewhat lighter. Mothers wishing to
keep the hair of their children blonde, avoid oils, and frequently wash
the heads of the children with vinegar or lemon juice. No coloration
is, however, durable; it becomes in the course of time gradually
weaker, and the new growth of hair always requires after-coloration.
For dyeing the hair metallic salts are chiefly employed. Owing to
their poisonous action the use of _lead salts_ for the purpose is
prohibited in some countries, for instance, in Germany and Austria.
_Silver_ is used in the form of _nitrate of silver_ (lunar caustic).
In the presence of organic substances, as well as under the influence
of light, this combination is reduced, metallic silver in small black
grains being separated. Silver salts also give a black precipitate
of silver sulphide with sulphuretted hydrogen. By simply moistening
the hair with silver solution they become brown to brown-black, the
coloration appearing more rapidly by previously treating the hair with
pyrogallic acid, or, after the application of the silver solution,
with sulphydrate of sodium or potassium. The colorations produced
with nitrate of silver are very durable, but, if not dyed again for
some time, the hair acquires a greenish or reddish color, this being
especially the case if they were not sufficiently freed from fat before
dyeing. For freeing the hair from fat, wash the hair with a mixture of
1 part spirit of sal ammonia in 10 parts of brandy, and dry carefully.
_Copper salts_ with certain substances, such as potassium ferrocyanide
solution, potassium sulphydrate, calcium sulphydrate, and pyrogallic
acid give dark-brown colorations. Of the copper salts, the sulphate in
ammoniacal solution is most frequently employed, though occasionally
also the chloride. These salts give a beautiful brown color to the
hair. Small quantities of copper salt are also frequently added to the
actual black dyes; the hair by this means acquiring a brown-black,
instead of a deep black color.
All the _iron salts_, with the exception of the chloride, may be used
for dyeing the hair. Soluble iron salts by themselves make the hair
somewhat darker, but this slow, natural process is not relied on, and
a second substance forming dark colored combinations with the iron,
such as sulphur, tannin, or pyrogallic acid, is, as a rule, employed.
To this class belongs a _Turkish hair dye_, which, according to X.
Landerer, is prepared as follows: Gall-nuts converted to a fine powder
are mixed with oil and roasted in a pan until no more empyreumatic
vapors and odor are evolved. The black powder thus obtained is
made into a paste with water, and into it is stirred a finely
pulverized mass prepared from ferrous oxide, copper, and antimony,
the result being a deep black mass. This dye is called _Rastikopetra_
(eyebrow-stone). It is one of the Oriental cosmetics used by both men
and women.
_Potassium permanganate solution_ is reduced by organic substances,
peroxide of manganese being formed. A concentrated solution of this
salt imparts to the hair and skin an intense brown color, which,
however, is not very durable, and requires frequent renewing.
_Pyrogallic acid_ may be used for darkening the hair, not only in
combination with metallic substances, but also by itself, or with
alkalies. Hair moistened with pyrogallic acid becomes under the
influence of light and air dark gray to blackish. However, the color is
not handsome, and appears only in the course of weeks. In connection
with alkalies, pyrogallic acid produces a red-brown to black-brown
coloration.
Under the name of _Kohol_, an extremely fine powder, consisting of
black sulphide of antimony, is used in Egypt by all classes for
blackening the edges of the eyelids and the eyebrows.
A hair dye, much used in the Orient, is _henna_, the dried and
pulverized leaves of _Lawsonia inermis_. By the women this powder is
used for coloring the hair and nails red-brown. In the Turkish sweating
baths the attendants scatter the henna upon the hair of the women and
tie it upon the finger nails. The women then frequently remain for
hours in the steam bath, whereby the powdered henna is converted into
an extract-like mass which colors hair and nails red-brown. It is said
that henna even colors the coal-black hair of the Arabs red-brown,
which is considered beautiful. Before treating with henna, the hair
must be freed from fat with soap or fuller's earth.
Hair dyed red with henna acquires a beautiful black color when
subsequently treated with indigo, this mode of dyeing black being much
in vogue in the Orient. The process is as follows: The hair, being
freed from fat with soap, is divided into separate strands and anointed
with quite a stiff paste prepared from pulverized henna and lukewarm
water. The hair, after being smoothed, is allowed to remain for at
least one hour in contact with the paste, and is then rinsed off with
lukewarm water. Being slightly dried, it is then in the same manner
anointed with a paste prepared from indigo and water, and allowed to
remain in contact with it for one hour. The hairs which were colored
orange-red by the henna, now have a greenish-black appearance, but
by the oxidation of the indigo in a short time acquire an intensely
blue-black color, which is extraordinarily durable, the hair only after
several months requiring to be again dyed.
The freshly expressed juice and the fresh parenchyma of _green walnut
shells_, or of unripe walnuts, gradually color light or gray hair dark
to nut-brown. The coloring substance is not thoroughly known, but is
very likely a phloroglucide; it is extracted by fats and alcohol, but,
according to Paschkis, is no longer effective in such solution. This,
however, is not correct in regard to the alcoholic extract, because the
extract from ordinary walnut shells, prepared by mixing the expressed
juice of green walnut shells with 10 parts of alcohol, allowing the
mixture to stand for ten days, and then filtering, also colors brown.
_Peroxide of hydrogen_ bleaches organic substances, dark or red hair
being thereby changed to reddish-yellow or pale blonde. The coloration,
or rather bleaching, does not appear at once, but is complete only
after some time. The peroxide of hydrogen only exists in aqueous
solution, which should be quite concentrated (15 to 20 per cent.).
Owing to the mode of preparation, the solution always contains some
nitric acid and readily decomposes, when exposed to light and air,
whereby it becomes useless.
In the following, a number of formulæ for hair-dyes are given.
According to their constitution, they may be divided into two groups,
viz: A. Dyes which contain the coloring matter in a finished state;
and, B. Dyes which are formed upon the hair by a chemical process. The
dye should first be applied in a dilute state, and the application
repeated in case the desired shade is not produced, since by the use
of the dye in a concentrated form a shade not resembling any natural
color might be obtained, hair which is to be colored black acquiring,
for instance, a metallic blue-black lustre.
A. SINGLE HAIR DYES. _Teinture Orientale (Karsi)._--Ambergris 2¾
drachms, gall-nuts 4 lbs., pulverized iron 1¾ ozs., pulverized
copper 1 drachm, musk 1 drachm. Convert the gall-nuts to a fine powder,
and roast the powder in an iron pan, stirring constantly until it is
dark brown to blackish. Rub the powder together with the metallic
powders, and the perfume substances and keep the mixture in a damp
place. For use moisten some of the powder upon the hand and apply to
the hair, rubbing it in vigorously. In a few days the hair acquires a
deep black, quite natural color. In roasting, the tannin-substances
contained in the gall-nuts are converted into gallic and pyrogallic
acids, which yield with the metals combinations of a deep black color,
and are even readily converted into black-brown bodies (humin bodies).
_Teinture Chinoise (Kohol)._--Gum-arabic 1 oz., Chinese ink 1¾ ozs.,
rose-water 1 quart. Reduce the gum-arabic and Chinese ink to fine
powder, and triturate the powder in small quantities with rose water
until a homogeneous black fluid free from grains is formed. Collect
this fluid in a bottle and mix it with the remaining rose water. Kohol
is only suitable for persons with black hair and is especially used for
dyeing the eyebrows. The coloring matter of this preparation consisting
only of carbon in a very finely divided state, it is perfectly
harmless.
_Potassium permanganate hair dye._--Potassium permanganate 5 ozs.,
distilled water 2 quarts. Crystallized potassium permanganate dissolves
with great ease in water to a deep violet fluid. By bringing the
solution in contact with an organic substance--paper, linen, skin,
horn, hair--it rapidly discolors, imparting to the substances a brown
color, which originates from peroxide of manganese. Free the hair from
fat by washing, and apply the dilute solution with a soft brush. The
color appears immediately, and according to the degree of dilution, all
shades of color from blonde to darkest brown may be produced with this
perfectly harmless agent. It may, of course, also be used for dyeing
the beard.
_Bismuth hair dye._--Subnitrate of bismuth 10 parts, 10 per cent.
solution of potassa and citric acid each a sufficient quantity,
glycerin 150 parts, water sufficient to make 300 parts. Intimately
mix the subnitrate of bismuth and the glycerin by trituration, then
heat the mixture in a water-bath, and gradually add to it solution of
potassa, under constant stirring, until the bismuth salt is dissolved.
Next add a concentrated solution of citric acid until only a slight
alkalinity remains. Finally add enough water to make 300 parts, and
perfume according to preference.
_Walnut hair dye._--Bruise 40 parts of fresh green walnut peel with 5
parts of alum, digest with 200 parts of olive oil until all moisture
has been dissipated, strain and perfume the oil according to preference.
_Pyrogallic hair stain._--Pyrogallic acid ½ oz., water 3 ozs.,
alcohol 1 oz. This liquid gives a dark brown color.
B. DOUBLE HAIR DYES.--These and similar hair dyes consist of two
preparations, kept in bottles I and II. The bottle II, which serves
for the reception of the silver preparation, must be of blue or black
glass, since silver salts are decomposed by light. For use, pour some
of the fluid in bottle I into a cup, and moisten the hair with it by
means of a soft brush. Then pour the fluid in bottle II into another
cup, and apply it with another brush.
_For dyeing brown._ I (in the white bottle).--Liver of sulphur 7 ozs.,
alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle). Nitrate of silver 4 ozs.,
distilled water 1 quart.
_For dyeing black._ I (in the white bottle).--Liver of sulphur 8 ozs.,
alcohol 1 quart. II (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5 ozs.,
distilled water 1 quart.
Liver of sulphur is a leather-brown mass, readily soluble in water.
The solution has to be filtered before it is brought into the bottles.
By bringing the solutions together black sulphide of silver is formed,
which effects the dark coloration of the hair. After using the dye, a
disagreeable odor of stale eggs adheres to the hair, which is, however,
readily removed by washing.
The silver hair dyes may also be made by preparing the fluid in bottle
II as follows: Add drop by drop water of ammonia to the silver nitrate,
kept constantly agitated until the precipitate formed is redissolved.
_Tannin hair dye._ I (in the white bottle).--Pulverized gall-nuts
14 ozs., water 16 ozs., rose water 16 ozs. Boil the gall-nuts in
the water, strain the boiling fluid through a close cloth into the
rose water, and bring the fluid thus obtained, while still hot, into
the bottles, which should be immediately closed. (It is absolutely
necessary to bring the fluid hot into the bottles, as otherwise mould
is readily formed.) II (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5 ozs.,
distilled water 1 quart. Add water of ammonia to the silver solution
until the precipitate at first formed is redissolved.
_Melanogène._ I (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 5½ drachms,
distilled water 2¾ ozs., water of ammonia 1 oz. II (in the white
bottle).--Pyrogallic acid ½ drachm, 40 per cent. spirit of wine 17
ozs.
_Eau d'Afrique._ I (in the dark bottle).--Nitrate of silver 1½ drachms,
distilled water 3½ ozs. II (in the white bottle).--Sodium sulphide 4½
drachms, distilled water 3½ ozs.
_Krinochrom._ I (in the white bottle).--Pyrogallic acid 5½ drachms,
distilled water 6¼ ozs., alcohol 5½ ozs. II (in the dark bottle).
Nitrate of silver 6¾ drachms, water of ammonia 2 ozs., distilled
water 10½ ozs.
_Copper hair dye._ I (in the white bottle).--Potassium ferrocyanide
(yellow prussiate of potash) 7 ozs., distilled water 1 quart. II (in
the dark bottle).--Cupric sulphate (blue vitriol) 7 ozs., distilled
water 1 quart. Add to the cupric sulphate solution water of ammonia
until the pale blue precipitate at first formed is dissolved to a
beautiful dark blue fluid. This hair dye gives a dark brown color, but
great care has to be exercised in its use, the yellow prussiate of
potash being very poisonous.
DEPILATORIES.--While the number of agents for promoting the growth of
the hair is a very small one, and their efficacy not above doubt, there
are, on the other hand, quite a number of very effective agents for
the removal of hair, sulphur combinations being most frequently used
for the purpose. _Rhusma_ is a depilatory which has long been known,
and is still almost exclusively used in the Orient. It consists of 1
part orpiment and 6 parts of lime slaked to a powder. Mix intimately
by passing the ingredients through a sieve, and preserve the mixture
in tightly-closed vessels. For use, stir some of the powder to a paste
with water, and apply it to the place upon which the hairs are to be
destroyed. As soon as the layer of paste begins to dry remove it with a
thin shaving of wood. Owing to the energetic action of this depilatory
upon the skin, ladies are advised not to use it for the face.
Combinations of sulphur with the alkalies and alkaline earths are
much used as depilatories. Of these, _sodium sulphydrate_, however,
should never be used, without the advice of a physician, as it acts
very energetically upon the skin, and frequently leaves scars behind.
_Calcium sulphide_ is contained in Boettger's depilatory. It is usually
prepared by heating at a low red heat in a securely-closed crucible
an intimate mixture of 100 parts of finely-powdered quicklime with 90
parts of precipitated sulphur. Of the calcium sulphide thus obtained,
mix 1 lb. with 8 ozs. of starch and 7 drachms of lemon oil. Apply the
paste to the place upon which the hairs are to be destroyed, allowing
it to remain 20 to 30 seconds. The action of _barium sulphide_, which
is frequently used as a depilatory, is much less energetic than that
of calcium sulphide. It is, for instance, a constituent of Bartholow's
depilatory, which consists of barium sulphide 1 part, caustic lime 1
part, and starch 2 parts, made into a paste with alcohol.
CHAPTER XIII.
COSMETICS.
Under this heading will be considered toilet vinegars, washes, perfumed
powders, pastes, skin pomades, as well as paints.
The fabrication of cosmetics is an important branch of perfumery. The
materials used for the purpose should be selected and of good quality
even for cheap articles, which are, of course, also represented in the
following receipts.
SKIN COSMETICS.--_Toilet vinegars._--Perfumed vinegars, when added to
wash water, have a refreshing effect and are also used as fumigating
agents by mixing them with water in a dish and placing the latter in
the room.
_Vinaigre de Bully._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, tinctures
of orris root, tolu balsam, benzoin and storax, each 1 lb., olibanum
tincture ½ lb., vanilla tincture and best lavender oil 5¼ ozs.,
bergamot oil and lemon oil each 4¼ ozs., acetic acid 2 lbs.
_Vinaigre de toilette à la rose._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
benzoin tincture 1 lb., angelica tincture 8 ozs., _extrait rose_ No. 1,
1 lb., French rose geranium oil 3½ ozs., acetic acid 14 ozs.
_Vinaigre de toilette à la violette._--Alcohol of best quality 5
quarts, orris-root tincture 2 quarts, tinctures of benzoin and storax
each 7 ozs., bergamot oil 2½ ozs., liquid orris-root oil[24] 11
drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.
[24] See foot-note, p. 257.
_Vinaigre de toilette héliotrope._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
tinctures of orris root and vanilla each 1 quart, musk root tincture 3½
ozs., benzoin tincture 1 lb., bergamot oil 1¾ ozs., verbena oil and
palmarosa oil each 14 drachms, clove oil 8¼ drachms, acetic acid 1 lb.
_Vinaigre de toilette orange._--Alcohol of best quality 5 quarts,
benzoin tincture 10½ ozs., abelmosk tincture and vitivert tincture each
8 ozs., civet tincture 14 drachms, Portugal oil 8 ozs., acetic acid 14
ozs.
_Vinaigre de toilette._--Alcohol of best quality 10 quarts, orris-root
tincture 1⅗ lbs., tinctures of benzoin, tolu balsam and angelica
each 1 lb., French rose-geranium oil 1¾ ozs., bergamot oil 4¼ ozs.,
lemon oil and lavender oil each 3½ ozs., neroli oil 8¼ drachms, best
rosemary oil 11 drachms, peppermint oil 5½ drachms, acetic acid 2 lbs.
_Aromatic vinegar._--Tincture of benzoin 1 oz., alcohol 1⅛ oz.,
acetic ether and extract of jasmine each 1½ ozs., acetic acid 3½ ozs.,
oil of rose 10 drops, oils of neroli and wintergreen each 5 drops.
_English aromatic vinegar._--Crystallized acetic acid 20 ozs., camphor
2 ozs., oil of lavender 10 drops, oil of cloves 30 drops, oil of
cinnamon 15 drops. Mix and dissolve.
The preparation is used for smelling-bottles. The vials are first
filled with sulphate of potassa in small crystals, and enough acetic
acid is added to thoroughly moisten the salt. The use of sulphate of
potassa is said to have originated from the fact, that the acid mixture
was formerly obtained by introducing into the vials acetate of potassa
and a sufficiency of sulphuric acid. Whether this be true or not,
sulphate of potassa constitutes an excellent medium for retaining the
liquid in the bottle. It acts simply as an incorrodible sponge.
_Toilet vinegar._--Essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris
4 drachms, essence of vanilla and oil of neroli each 30 drops, strong
acetic acid 160 drops, alcohol 6 ozs.
_Washes._--Washes are mostly milky fluids or emulsions, formed by the
fine division of resins or balsams in water, benzoin and myrrh being
especially employed for the purpose. Of the former, it was at one time
believed that fumigations with it every evening after washing would
prevent wrinkles in the face. The emulsions are used by adding one to
two tablespoonfuls to the wash-water. Perfumed glycerin is also much
employed as an addition to wash-water.
_Virginal milk_ (_Lait virginal_).--Alcohol of finest quality 2½
quarts, bergamot oil and Turkish rose oil each 5½ drachms, benzoin
tincture 1 quart.
Pulverize in a porcelain mortar about 14 drachms of sugar, add the
bergamot oil and rose oil and mix intimately. Now bring the paste-like
substance into a glass bottle, rinse out the mortar with the alcohol
and add the latter to the contents of the bottle. Close the latter with
a well-fitting stopper and place it in a warm room for 8 days, shaking
frequently. Then add the benzoin tincture, mix intimately and finally
filter through paper. This fluid is used by adding sufficient of it
to the wash-water to form an emulsion, which exerts a refreshing and
invigorating effect upon the skin and olfactory nerves.
_Rose milk_ (_Lait de rose_).--Rose water 5 lbs., white beeswax and
comminuted Castile soap each 3½ ozs., potash 4½ ozs., _Extrait rose_
No. 1 8 ozs.
Heat the rose-water in an enamelled or porcelain vessel, and dissolve
in it the Castile soap. Then add the wax, and, when this is dissolved,
the potash, stirring constantly, while the substances are dissolving.
When solution is complete, strain the milk-like fluid through a cloth
(best gauze or muslin) into another vessel, cover it and allow it to
cool. When cold add the _Extrait rose_, shake thoroughly and fill it
into bottles for sale.
If the _Lait de rose_ is to be rose color, add very carefully a small
quantity of corallin tincture and shake vigorously.
Besides wax, fatty or oily substances should not be employed in the
preparation of these emulsions, as otherwise they would soon become
rancid.
_Almond milk_ (_Lait d'amandes amères_).--Distilled water 5 lbs.,
bitter almonds 1 lb., white beeswax 1¾ ozs., comminuted Castile soap
2½ ozs., potash 3½ ozs., bitter-almond oil 8¼ drachms, dissolved in
extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ 8 ozs.
Scald and peel the bitter almonds. Then convert them to a paste by
pounding in a clean mortar, bring the paste into the distilled water,
and extract in a water-bath for about ½ hour. Then strain the liquid
through a cloth, successively dissolve the other substances in the
strained fluid in the water-bath, and when all is dissolved, strain
again and proceed as given for rose milk. The bitter-almond oil is
dissolved in the extract from _Pomm. Tubereuse_ and added last of all
to the liquid mass.
_Lily milk_ (_Lait de lys_).--Rose water, orange-flower water, and
jasmine water each 1 quart, white beeswax 3½ ozs., Castile soap 2½
ozs., potash and orris-root tincture each 3½ ozs., cumarin tincture
1¾ ozs., dissolved in musk-root tincture 3½ ozs., bergamot oil 1¾
ozs. Proceed as given for _Lait de Rose_.
In regard to the Castile soap, it may here be remarked that it
should be neutral and contain no excess of oil, as otherwise all the
preparations above given might, in a short time, become rancid.
_Perfumed glycerin with rose odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28° B.
10 lbs., _Extrait rose_ No. 1, 8 ozs.
By adding the _Extrait rose_, the glycerin becomes turbid, but
clarifies by shaking thoroughly and allowing the mixture to stand
quietly for several days. Filtering the fluid is not advisable, and
besides entirely useless.
_Perfumed glycerin with fruit odor._--Chemically pure glycerin of 28°
B. 10 lbs., any kind of fruit ether 1¾ ozs. Shake thoroughly. The
glycerin, if chemically pure, is not rendered turbid by the fruit
ether, which, of course, must also be of the best quality.
PERFUMED MEALS AND PASTES.--The perfumed meals are frequently used
for washing in place of soap, or they are applied after washing, or
shaving, to the skin to prevent the latter from becoming rough or
chapped. The pastes are applied in order to make the skin softer.
_Farin de noisette_ (_nut meal_).--Best quality wheat flour 3 lbs.,
almond meal 1½ lbs., orris-root powder 1 lb., bergamot oil 2 ozs.
Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine
sieve.
_Farin d'amandes amères_ (_almond meal_).--Best quality wheat flour and
almond meal each 3 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1 oz.
Mix the ingredients intimately and pass the mixture through a fine
sieve.
_Pate d'amandes au miel_ (_honey almond paste_).--Best quality almond
meal 2 lbs., honey 4 lbs., chemically pure glycerin of 28° B. 2 lbs.,
fresh olive oil 4 lbs., bitter-almond oil 1¾ ozs., the yolks of 20
eggs.
Sift the almond meal into a capacious earthenware dish. Mix the honey
and glycerin after slightly warming them. Beat the yolks of the eggs
in a small dish with a tablespoon until a uniform mass is formed. Now
add alternately of the mixture of honey and glycerin and of the olive
oil to the almond meal, work the whole thoroughly with the pestle,
then add the yolks of the eggs, stirring constantly, and finally the
bitter-almond oil. The whole now forms a viscous mass. It is best to
keep the freshly-prepared paste in a well-closed earthenware pot in a
cool place for about 14 days before distributing it into boxes, because
after the ingredients are mixed together a slight fermentation takes
place which might cause damage by bursting the lids of the porcelain
boxes.
Ladies use this paste for producing a fine soft skin, upon the hands,
face, and neck, for which, in fact, it has proved excellent.
_Poudre de riz à la rose._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs.,
_Extrait rose_ No. 1, 3½ ozs., French rose-geranium oil 14 drachms,
clove oil 2¾ drachms.
The ingredients are intimately mixed and passed through a sieve. The
perfumes are brought together in a glass and thoroughly shaken. The
same directions hold good for all succeeding receipts for _Poudre de
riz_. Of talc only the whitest pieces should be used, the Briancon talc
or French chalk being very suitable for the purpose, it yielding a very
white and delicate powder. It is prepared as follows: Over 1 part of
talc pour 2 parts of vinegar, let it stand, with frequent shaking, for
14 days, then filter and thoroughly wash the talc with distilled water.
If rose-colored _poudre de riz rose_ is demanded, add to the
proportions of weight above given about 1 oz. of madder, triturate it
thoroughly with the powder, perfume, triturate again, and finally pass
the whole through a fine sieve.
These rice powders are best kept in well-closed tin canisters.
_Poudre de riz héliotrope._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs.,
bergamot oil 10 drachms, French rose-geranium oil 5 drachms, clove oil
2½ drachms, vanilla tincture 10 drachms, _Extrait héliotrope_ No. 1,
1¾ ozs.
Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.
_Poudre de riz à la violette._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19
ozs., bergamot oil 10 drachms, liquid orris-root oil 2½ drachms,
_Extrait Violette_ No. 1, 1 oz., cumarin tincture 5 drachms.
Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_.
_Poudre de riz orange._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs.,
Portugal oil 1 oz., petit-grain oil 5 drachms, extract from _Pommade
Orange_ 1 oz.
Proceed as directed for _Poudre riz à la rose_.
_Poudre de riz muguet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs.,
ylang-ylang oil, wintergreen oil, angelica oil, and bitter-almond
oil each 2 drops, bergamot oil 5 drops, storax tincture 14 drachms,
_Extrait Muguet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs.
Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.
_Poudre de riz ixora._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 oz.,
bergamot oil 2½ drachms, Ceylon cinnamon oil 1 drachm, tinctures of
orris root and vanilla each 1¾ ozs., extract from _Pomm. Cassie_ or
_Extrait ixora_ 1¾ ozs.
Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.
_Poudre de riz bouquet._--Rice flour 4 lbs., prepared talc 19 ozs.,
bergamot oil 8 drachms, African rose oil and Ceylon cinnamon oil each
2¾ drachms, _Extrait ess-bouquet_ No. 1, 3½ ozs.
Proceed as directed for _Poudre de riz à la rose_.
COLD CREAMS AND LIP-SALVES.--The purpose of cold creams and lip-salves
is to impart lustre to the skin and protect it from cracking in changes
of temperature.