AFION-KARA-HISSAR
After about twenty-four hours in the train, a train that stopped at
every station, I looked out into the night and saw a strange place where
huge rocks rose up against the sky. The train was slowing down while I
looked, and I thought to myself that it would be an interesting place to
see by daylight. Afterwards I saw it by daylight: by the light of nine
hundred and thirty-eight days and by the moonlight of many nights, and
it no longer seemed so interesting. It was like the old legend where the
fortunate man is given three wishes and each recoils upon his head. For
this was Afion-Kara-Hissar.
Afion-Kara-Hissar means Opium Black Fort. Miles of white opium poppies
are grown in the fields about the town, and the black fort--the
Kara-Hissar--is a huge solitary rock rising up out of the town as out of
a sea. The great plain, which stretches away for miles in every
direction except the south, must have been an inland sea once, though
it is now more than 3,000 feet above the level of the Mediterranean.
The Kara-Hissar is precipitous on all sides, hung round by cliffs, and
there are few places where it can be climbed. The walls of an old fort
grin along its rim like broken teeth; and there is a tradition that it
was once besieged in vain for many years. In the days before gunpowder,
provided that food and water did not fail and the garrison was faithful,
it is hard to see how it could ever fall. We used to argue about its
height, without result, but it cannot have been less than 600 feet from
the town to the coronet of walls.
Afion is a natural junction among the highways of the mountains. The
plain is ringed by the hills, and the passes through them lead to Afion.
Xenophon crossed the plain, and Alexander the Great. The first crusade
streamed past the mighty rock. And at the present day the Smyrna line
joins on at Afion with the Constantinople--Bagdad railway. During the
war all troops from Constantinople or Smyrna proceeding to either the
Mesopotamian or Palestine fronts passed through Afion. And we watched
them. The only aeroplane I saw during my captivity, flown by a German
officer from Constantinople to Jerusalem, passed through Afion. And
tens of thousands of storks on their annual migration passed by the same
way in vast flocks.
It was an interesting place, true enough. But when is captivity
interesting? After we had been there a year and a half we found that it
had another title to fame, for we read in a book that it possessed
perhaps the best known mosque of Dervishes in Turkey. The Dervishes we
knew well enough by sight, with their long robes and high felt hats,
like elongated brimless toppers. And we knew the mosque, too. It was
well built; but it was modern and did not somehow look famous. Well, if
the place was famous before, it is infamous all right now.
We arrived at about ten o'clock on a cold night and found that no one
expected us. At any rate, they had made no preparations for our
disposal. After some delay we were marched up from the station, about a
mile, through the town, and ushered into a house that would have been
better if it had been empty. For it had been used as a hospital, and had
never been cleaned since. There were filthy bandages and other oddments
about the floors. As usual, it was an Armenian house; for, although the
Armenians of Afion were not actually massacred in or near the town, as
at Angora, they had nearly all been deported at the time of the great
Armenian drive. It was really a very good house, about the best I was
ever in in Turkey, except at the end, in Smyrna. But except for the dirt
of the hospital _debris_ it was utterly bare.
When we woke up next morning we found we were quarantined on account of
the typhus at Angora, as well as locked up in the ordinary way. But soon
a cheery-looking Englishman with a pointed beard marched up the road
outside and hailed us through the windows. This was a naval officer, the
senior officer among the British prisoners at Afion, and from him we
learned that much more freedom was to be expected here than we had known
for a long while.
I forget how long our quarantine lasted, not more than a day or two, and
then we were free to go out, accompanied by guards, to visit the other
prisoners. There was one house, just on the opposite side of the
Kara-Hissar, with, I think, nine French officers in it; and four or five
hundred yards further on there was another house with nine or ten
British officers, mostly naval, and about the same number of Russians.
Of the Russians, four or five belonged to the Imperial Navy, and the
rest were Merchant Service men, not really prisoners of war. In the
Medrisseh, the large old Mohammedan school in the town, there were a lot
more Russian merchant sailor officers and engineers. These Russians
beat us all in duration of captivity, for they had all been seized
before war actually was declared.
The French-Anglo-Russian community had the very great privilege of
permanent permission, by daylight, to use a generous slice of rocky
hill-side as a playground, and the Anglo-Russian house had a large
garden in addition. They kept turkeys and chickens, and seemed to us to
be extraordinarily fortunate people. And we shared their good luck to a
large extent, for, though we had not the hill-side always at hand, we
were allowed to come over with a guard every afternoon.
A few days after our arrival at Afion the three original naval officers
of Angora moved from our rather crowded quarters into the French house.
The skipper had marked it down as a good place to escape from, and in
two of the naval officers of the Anglo-Russian house he had found men as
daring as himself.
For five or six weeks things went smoothly. A good many parcels arrived,
and letters from home, which mean so much. Altogether, captivity was as
tolerable as could be expected. Spring was early that year, and snow
fell only once after we had settled in. I embarked upon an awful career
of writing verses, a regular orgie of production, and it took me so far
from Turkey that at times it was hard to realize which was my real life,
that in the Armenian house, or the wider one among the forests of
Ceylon, where I wandered far and free. Buds were shooting, the sap began
to sting in the veins of the trees, and in the caves the starlings built
their nests. Spring is a season of charm wherever one may be, but in
Turkey even that paradise contains a serpent, for the season of
awakening rouses the things that bite from their winter sleep, and lying
awake at night one can hear the prisoners stir and scratch themselves.
We had arrived at Afion so completely penniless that the Turkish
Commandant, at our request, sent a wire to the American Ambassador
asking for money. The Ambassador rose to the occasion and sent up LTq.3
a head. Prices had already begun the giddy climb I have already
indicated, and our Turkish pay was already hardly enough to keep body
and soul together. The three pounds became a monthly grant, later it was
increased to five, and before we left Turkey it had become eighteen. Let
no one think that on this we were rich. But it was a great thing to feel
that our plight was not forgotten.
Some of the adventures that had landed prisoners at Angora have been
briefly described. Let me give a few of those that had brought others
to Afion. The first I must mention is that of an Australian observer,
for it tells of a very gallant deed performed by one of our enemies, and
even the bitterness of war should not be allowed to obscure glorious
deeds. In December one of our aeroplanes crashed into the sea about a
mile, more or less, from the coast of the Gallipoli peninsula held by
the Turks. The pilot sank, but the observer was buoyed up by his
life-saving waistcoat until he lost consciousness in the bitterly cold
water. When he came to his senses again he found himself ashore, a
prisoner, and he was told that a German officer had swum out and brought
him in: swum out into that December sea to save an enemy. Let that stand
to the credit of Germany, and the other story I shall tell to the
discredit of Turkey. It is the tale of Joe, a sturdy Yorkshire sailor
man, a naval reserve officer, who was sent into a bay on the southern
coast of Anatolia in command of a boat. They hoped to locate a submarine
base, but they were ambushed instead. Joe was hit in the neck by a great
lump of a Snyder bullet, which had first passed through the side of the
boat. The survivors were captured, and Joe, who rode as a sailor,
travelled many painful miles on horseback. He was operated on in the
most primitive fashion, by being held down by soldiers while a Turkish
doctor lugged the bullet by main force from its lodging place at the
base of his jaw. Finally he reached the civilised town of Smyrna, and
was there confined in the local war office, a large building facing one
of the main streets. Just below his window was the window of the office
used by the Commandant of the place. For three days and nights Joe was
not allowed out of that room for any purpose whatsoever. There was no
convenience of any sort in the room, but all his demands to be allowed
out, even for five minutes, were met by a fixed bayonet. Still, there
was the window, and Joe was a clean person. Eventually the high and
mighty person in the room below complained, and his complaint brought
Joe's sufferings to an end. It is disgusting to write of these things,
but captivity among a disgusting people is a disgusting fact. Why should
white books and blue books have the monopoly?
In the last week of March we had exciting news. The skipper and two
other naval officers had gone. They simply got out of their windows at
night, rendezvoused on the hill-side, and struck for the coast. They had
made ample preparation in the way of training, and they carried enough
food to last them for two weeks. The skipper was in the French house,
and he had not told them his plan, so they were taken by complete
surprise. But they rose to the occasion like men, and showed the
greatest skill in leading the Turks gently away from the scent. We all
thought them jolly good sportsmen. So successfully was the escape
concealed, and so lax were the guards, that it was four days before the
Turks discovered that they were three prisoners short. Even then they
could not believe it. They looked in the beds and under them, and called
plaintively in odd corners, hoping the whole thing was a joke. It was
only the letter to the Commandant which had been left behind that
finally convinced them. Then there was the devil to pay.
In Turkey it was not the guards that kept the prisoners in, but the
country. Guards there were in plenty, but they were often lax and until
this escape there were no regular roll calls. But the country is a
terrifically hard place to get out of. To begin with, it is no easy
matter to find one's way through mountains with only a small-scale map.
I doubt if the country has ever been properly surveyed. Then there is
the language difficulty and the cutthroat character of the inhabitants.
Water, too, is scarce, and food unobtainable. And the size of the
country is vastly greater than most people seem to imagine. Asia Minor
is roughly 600 miles long and 400 miles broad: a larger country than
Spain. And it had no frontier which abutted upon friendly country nearer
than the Caucasus, an almost hopeless journey to attempt. East there are
the Taurus mountains, and beyond them desert, so that direction is out
of the question. North, west, and south there is the sea. And our
information was that very few boats were likely to be available. So that
even when a party overcame the great difficulties of the land journey,
and reached the coast, there was always a very strong probability of
their having to give themselves up to get food.
Two days after this escape had taken place, and two days before the
Turks discovered it, a new party of prisoners arrived in Afion. It was
hard luck that they should have come at such a time, for they were very
worn and required good treatment. There were a few men and about nine
officers, all from the Mesopotamian front. They had been taken at
different times, and had joined up on the way. It was always the
prisoners from the Mesopotamian front who had the worst time on the
journey. For, in those days, the Bagdad railway stopped short hundreds
of miles from the fighting line, and prisoners had to make the awful
desert marches as best they could. Six of these had come down out of
the sky, and two had been taken in a stranded barge during the retreat
of the 6th Division to Kut-el-Amara. Each had his separate adventure and
wonderful escape. In few places in the world can so varied a body of
adventurers have been gathered as there were at Afion then. We had
British, French, Russians, Ukrainians, Poles, Black Sea Greeks, Jews,
and Russian Italians, besides all sorts of obscure Baltic and Eastern
European people. The Roumanians and Serbs did not come until later.
There were men who had dropped from the heavens, and men who had risen
out from the depths of the sea; men from the Dardanelles, from
Mesopotamia, from the Sinai Peninsula, and from the plain of Troy. Later
on, we had additions from Persia, Palestine, and the Caucasus. Between
us we had seen and wandered over most of Europe, Asia, Africa, America,
and the Southern Seas; and we spoke most of the tongues of the earth,
and some others. Had we combined, we might have written a pretty good
guide book to the world; its hills and its heavens, its cities and its
wide spaces; and we would have puzzled the builders of Babel.
To live among us was a liberal education, and some of us were boys who
had hardly left school when war began. And the setting of this drama
was a dingy, dirty Turkish town, with mud-coloured, flat-topped houses,
and narrow, wretched streets.
The new-comers had nothing but what they stood up in. One, a short,
stout man, had been stripped naked when he was captured, and had been
led before the Turkish general dressed only in a sack given him in
charity. Since that, however, he had succeeded in getting some clothes
more suitable to his considerable dignity: "The Admiral," we used to
call him: he was a member of the Royal Indian Marine. Several were
unwell, and all were in need of good food and a rest. One of them used
to tell a story of the attention received on the journey from a Turkish
doctor; a story of the kind we grew to know as typically Turkish. This
officer attended a Turkish hospital to have an ulcer in his leg dressed.
The bandage seemed a bit more than secondhand, and the officer asked for
a clean one. But the Turkish doctor refused, assuring him, in French,
that it was _tout a fait sterilize_, absolutely sterilized. So it was
applied. But on the way home the officer felt it crawl, and, removing
it, found that it contained nine lice. Is it any wonder that typhus was
rife?
In so far as it was possible, we had to fit our new friends out, for, of
course, the Turks gave them nothing but a bare Armenian house, which
cost them nothing. What our captors would have done with us all if they
had not prepared homes for us by slaying the Armenians it is hard to
imagine. Probably they would not have been troubled to keep us at all.
Those poor Armenians were our sacrifice.
We shared out whatever few articles of clothes, pipes, tobacco, and food
we could spare, and the new-comers prepared to take a rest cure. But
they were doomed to disappointment. The next two months were certainly
the most trying I have ever spent in my life. When at last the
Commandant did discover that three officers were missing, there was a
tremendous uproar. The first thing that happened was that the
Commandant, whose duty it was to safeguard the prisoners, telegraphed to
Constantinople resigning his job, and stating that he had handed over to
a vicious old gentleman, known as the Kolassi, who was second in
command. He hoped in this way to land the Kolassi with the
responsibility of the escape. But the Kolassi was not fool enough to
take over short measure, and the Commandant was obliged to retain his
command pending inquiry. Of course, we were all locked up, and
inter-house communication completely prevented. The place bristled with
bayonets. Then we were all ordered to pack up and be prepared to move
in half-an-hour. The small Turkish naval officer who was bearing the
brunt of his superior's wrath waxed almost tearful as he lectured the
occupants of the French house on the sin of lying, and told them of the
awful punishments of hell. All sorts of intrigues went on among the
Turks, and the blame of the escape was shuffled round like the game of
Old Maid. No one had the very slightest idea when they had gone, where
they had gone, or how they had gone. I doubt if they know to this day
how long a start they had. The Commandant, in his wriggles to avoid
punishment, did a most dastardly thing, a typically Turkish thing: for
he reported officially that the officers who had escaped had been on
parole and had broken it. This was a downright lie. One of the fugitives
had been senior British officer in the camp, and the Commandant had
asked him to give a parole for the whole lot of us; but he had
immediately and unhesitatingly refused to do anything of the kind. This
lie was calculated to put the prisoners who had escaped in a very
perilous position if recaptured, and I have no doubt at all that it
affected the treatment meted out to the rest of us.
When we had hastily packed up we were mustered in a street in the
desolate Armenian quarter. Not only the British, but all the other
nationalities too, including a large number of Russian merchant sailor
men whom we had never seen before. Here we were carefully counted, and
were then marched away in the direction of the Kara-Hissar, the wise
among us carrying everything we could. It is folly to be separated from
one's baggage in Turkey.
Right under the Kara-Hissar, so close that a stone thrown strongly out
from above might crash through its roof, was an Armenian church. A
fairly large building of grey stone with iron-barred windows and an
iron door. Outside the door was a very small courtyard paved with rough
slabs of stone, and along one side of the church ran a stone-flagged
pathway, flanked by a narrow strip of ground on which grew two pear
trees and an acacia. Opposite to the church, on the other side of the
tiny courtyard, was a tall white building which had been an Armenian
school. This church was selected as our prison. It was the only place in
the town which could have held us, except the Medrisseh.
As we approached the church, up a steep street and a flight of steps, we
passed a number of unfortunate Armenian women and children who had been
turned out to make room for us. They sat by the road with their little
bundles, looking very miserable indeed, and I am sure we did not want to
rob them of their refuge.
We all, officers and orderlies, marched into the church, and the iron
door was closed. There were guards outside the door and inside the door,
and guards on the flagged path without. At the western end of the church
were two galleries, one above the other; one was given to our orderlies,
and the other had an armed guard in it. There were over a hundred of us
in the church, most of us with home-made beds, some with chairs, tables,
basins, boxes, and cooking pots. The older prisoners had by this time
made benches and mess tables and other pieces of furniture, and there
were two dogs and a cat. By the time that carts had brought up the last
of our things, the place was so full that one could hardly move. We kept
a clear passage way down the centre, from the door to the altar, and the
remainder of the space was thronged with all manner of men and all
manner of objects precious to their owners. Four Russian naval officers
were the luckiest, for they were given a vestry to themselves.
That night, while the French and British slept, patrols of Russians took
it in turns to keep watch for the massacre they expected. Up and down
the central aisle they marched, two at a time, until dawn showed that
our heads were still on our shoulders. They knew the Turks better than
we, but we loved our sleep.