No lathe can be considered well fitted until it is supplied with a
large number of chucks, by which strange term are signified the
various appliances for fixing to the mandrel the article to be
turned. When it is considered how varied are the forms which present
themselves to the turner, it may readily be conceived that much
ingenuity has to be exercised in contriving methods for mounting his
work in the lathe; and when in addition to variety of _form_, variety
of _size_ has to be taken into consideration, it is plain that a
large assortment of chucks is a necessary item in the workshop of the
turner. A vast number of these chucks are of necessity made of wood,
as required, and such wooden ones are altered from time to time to
suit different-sized work, till they eventually become so completely
used up as to be only fit for the fire. In addition, however, to
these, there are certain chucks of metal (chiefly brass or gun metal)
which should always be ordered with a lathe, or fitted to it before
any work (even the making of wooden chucks) can be satisfactorily
accomplished. The first of these, is represented in Fig. 20, the part
A, screws to the mandrel; while the work is attached to the taper
screw B. The use of this chuck is to hold short pieces or flat discs,
which allow of a hole in the centre and require to be turned on the
face. It is only used for wood-work. This is the chuck to be selected
when it is desired to make a wooden chuck. A piece of sound wood
being chosen of the requisite size, and roughly rounded by the axe or
chisel, a hole is made in one face by a gimlet rather smaller than
the tapering screw. The piece is then firmly screwed to the latter,
the opposite end dressed with gouge and chisel, and the rest being
placed across the end, a hand-drill for wood is brought to bear upon
the piece. The hole thus made in the centre is then enlarged by any
convenient tool until its diameter is only a little less than that of
the screw cut on the lathe mandrel. An inside screw tool is then made
use of to cut a thread of the same pitch as that of the mandrel, or a
tap of similar size and pitch screwed into it (the former is the best
but most difficult method to a novice), the piece detached from the
taper screw chuck, which is removed, and the wood attached to the nose
of the mandrel on which it may now be accurately fitted and finished
to the requisite form and hollowed out or otherwise, as may be
necessary. Numberless articles may be in a similar manner turned upon
the above chuck such as the bottoms of candlesticks, ring or other
stands, bread-platters, small wheels, and so forth; it may therefore
stand as number one of these adjuncts to the lathe.
[Illustration: FIG 20.]
Fig. 21 is the face plate, another most serviceable chuck of almost
universal application in such work as surface-turning and boring, and
where a hole in the centre is inadmissible. To this belong various
dogs or cramps, a few forms of which are shown at _a_, _b_, _c_, _d_.
These hold the work firmly down to the surface of the plate, being
tightened from behind by screw nuts. It will be seen that there are
four slots and numbers of holes in the face plate, some of the latter
being tapped for screws. These slots and holes may be increased in
number, and some of the latter may be square instead of round, and
the cramps may be of all shapes and sizes, because sometimes it may
be required to hold down a flat piece of brass the eighth of an inch
thick only, and the next job may be to hollow an irregular block of
wood of three or four inches in thickness, or it may be necessary to
bore out the boss of a wheel, or to turn the rim--all of which, and a
hundred others, are cases in which the aid of the face plate will be
in requisition.
[Illustration: FIG. 21.]
Fig. 22 is the chuck specially used for turning rods of metal. It
consists of two parts, the body A, which screws to the mandrel, and
the piece B, which passes through a slot and is clamped by a small
screw at one side _c_. To these must be added the carrier which is
of such forms as A1, B1, C1. Above is shown a rod of metal to be
turned with this chuck in position for use. Of this we shall have to
speak again when we arrive at the subject of metal-turning. There
should be several sizes of carriers kept in stock, from 1/4in. in the
largest part of the ring to 2in. or 3in., or even much larger for
heavy work. The amateur will, however, scarcely need these larger
ones. The usual method of making the wood-holding chuck for work that
is to be also supported by the back centre, is to have a socket cast
like Fig. 23, C, with a central hole to take the fork A, which is held
in place by a set screw. This socket is useful for other purposes as
it will hold short pieces of iron to be turned, but the fork is far
inferior for general work to the piece _b_; this is made of iron, and
the end of the cross (against which the wood to be turned comes) is
sharpened but must not be _too_ sharp. The end of the piece of wood
has then two saw-cuts made at right angles to each other into which
the sharpened edges of the cross fall, Fig. 23 D, and the whole will
turn together without any chance of slipping. It often happens, when
the ordinary fork is used, that if the tool chances to hitch in the
work, the latter is either thrown quite out of the lathe, or the
centre of the fork retains its place, while the other two points slip
and score the work. This can never happen with the form B, which is
the most reliable pattern that can be devised for work of this nature.
[Illustration: FIG. 22.]
[Illustration]
[Illustration: FIG. 23.]
Fig. 24 is to some extent self-centering. A piece of wood hollowed out
conically has three nails, or three-square saw-files so placed within
the cone as to present three sharp edges inwards. Any piece of wood,
if not too hard, will, if placed with one end in the chuck, while the
back centre is screwed against the other, centre itself in some part
of this cone, and, being at the same time held by the three sharp
edges, will necessarily revolve in the chuck. There are many cases in
which even in this rough form such a chuck will prove useful; but if
it were cast in metal and the three edges formed by slips of steel,
and the whole accurately turned, it would be a very efficient and
good self-centering chuck. In its more common form it is largely used
by the turners of mop and broom handles, who work rapidly and cannot
afford to waste time in chucking their work. With the above, the
lathe, if worked by steam or water power, is not even stopped,--the
screw of the back centre has a quick thread, so that a single turn
to or fro fixes or releases the work; and thus, one handle being
finished, another piece takes its place in the chuck, is fixed by a
half-turn of the back screw, and being set in rapid motion is turned
and completed by a practised hand in a couple of minutes or less.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.]
Fig. 25 represents another useful chuck, generally of boxwood, called
the barrel stave chuck. It is turned conical, the largest part being
towards the mandrel; it is then wholly or partially drilled through,
after which saw-cuts are made longitudinally, as in the drawing. These
allow a certain degree of expansion when a piece of work is fitted
into it, and it is tightened round the latter by driving on a ring of
iron or brass. This ring is sometimes cut with a coarse thread inside,
and a similar thread being chased on the outside of the chuck, it
is screwed upon the cone instead of requiring to be driven by blows
of a hammer. One important use of this chuck is to re-mount in the
lathe, for ornamentation by the eccentric cutter or other apparatus,
any finished work that could not be readily chucked in any other
manner, or to hold rings requiring (like curtain rings) to be turned
on the inside. Such articles will, from the nature of this chuck, be
truly centred at once; and their exterior parts will not be liable
to injury, as they would be by being driven into an ordinary chuck
hollowed out to receive them.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.]
Another useful chuck for turning short pieces of metal such as bolts
and binding screws, and which is in a great measure self centering
is made of cast iron, and is usually called the dog-nose chuck,
represented in Fig. 26. This is made with movable jaw hinged, as more
plainly seen in B. The screw clamps these jaws firmly together, and
any small piece of work is thus securely held. The centering, however,
is not accurate, though sufficiently so for many purposes. The die
chuck (Fig. 27) is accurately self-centering, and although somewhat
expensive, is a valuable addition to the lathe. This chuck consists,
first of all, of a socket for screw to fit the mandrel, and round
flat plate of brass cast in one piece, as in Fig. 28. This must be
carefully turned and faced in the lathe. Two pieces of iron or brass
are then screwed to the face, as B, B, 28A, leaving a space between,
the sides of which are to be truly parallel. These pieces may either
be chamfered to form V-pieces, or may be rectangular on their inner
edges; at C, C, a part of each is cut away, and the outer or back
plate is also filed down to receive the small plates D, D. E shows a
groove in which a screw lies, half of which has a right and half a
left handed thread; this is shown in Fig. 29. It will be evident that
if this screw is placed in the groove of the bottom plate, and its
ends pass through the pieces D, D, which are screwed to the plates,
it can revolve in its bearings, but will have no endwise motion;
the collar F resting in a recess under the top plate D. This screw
passes through a projection in the back of the pair of dies, which
projection also goes into the same slot in the back plate in which
the screw works when turned by the key (Fig. 27, B). The above being
nicely fitted, the dies moving evenly but stiffly in their places, the
plain top is screwed on, keeping all firmly together. This plate has
a long opening or slot (Fig. 27), through which the jaws of the dies
and part of the screw are visible. The ends of the screw should not
project, as any such projection is calculated to bring to grief the
knuckles of the turner--a consideration worth attention in every form
of chuck--the squared ends of the screw lie in a recess in the small
plates, as shown in the section of one of these plates (Fig. 28X).
Into this recess the key fits over the screw end; and by turning this
the dies are simultaneously moved asunder, or closer together so as to
grasp centrally as in the jaws of a vice, any small article, such as a
screw or short rod of metal placed between them, A similarly contrived
chuck is often used under the name of a universal chuck, for holding
pieces of large diameter, and is very useful for taking pieces of
ivory which have to be hollowed or otherwise worked, as will hereafter
be detailed. In this case the jaws may be semicircular in form, as
Fig. 30.
[Illustration: FIG. 26.]
[Illustration: FIG. 27.]
[Illustration: FIG. 28.]
[Illustration: FIG. 28A.]
[Illustration: FIG. 29.]
[Illustration: FIG. 30.]
It is however, evident that these two chucks have a rather limited
range. The first can only be used for small work, and the only case
in which the latter can take firm hold all round the work is when
the jaws are just so far apart as that they form portions of the
circumference of one and the same circle. Practically they will hold
the work tightly under an extended range of sizes, and they are thus
of great use to the turner. The following is however more perfect in
operation, from the fact that it has four jaws instead of two which
meet concentrically. This may be made either with two long screws at
right angles to each other, with right and left-handed threads to
each, as in the die chucks, or more simply and, in some respects more
satisfactorily, with four distinct screws, all of the same pitch, and
all with squared ends of equal size, to allow of the same key being
used to turn them. It is possible to use such a chuck as an eccentric
chuck if desired, which is certainly a recommendation in its favour
over those which work always concentrically. The face of this chuck is
shown in Fig. 31. The ends of the four screws have a bearing in the
small centre plate _b_, whilst the collars or flanges rest in a recess
under the several plates _c, c_. The face of this chuck is graduated
by each die, so that it is easy to set the jaws concentrically or to
place one or more eccentrically to take in work of other shape than
round or square. The jaws of this form of chuck are used for two
purposes, either to hold work inside them like a vice, or externally.
A ring, for instance, requiring to be chased on the outside is slipped
over the jaws, which are then caused to recede from the centre so as
to hold the work securely. If the latter does not run truly, one or
more of the screws can be slackened, and the opposite ones tightened,
or if the eccentricity appears to be in an intermediate part, two
adjacent screws will have to be thus slackened and the others
tightened. On the whole this is a most useful pattern of chuck.
[Illustration: FIG. 31.]
The following is a very excellent self-centering chuck now coming
into extensive use. It has been noticed in more than one periodical.
The description annexed is extracted from the pages of the _English
Mechanic_. "The chuck hereby illustrated seems to be a very convenient
form, easily adjusted and holding the drill securely. It is also
well adapted for holding wire to be threaded. Every piece of which
it is composed is of cast steel well hardened. It can be furnished
with a shank to fit the hole for the centre, screwed on the spindle,
or slipped on the centre. No wrench is necessary, the gripe of the
fingers being sufficient to secure the shank of any drill. The
inventor claims that he has used a one-inch drill, in tenacious
wrought iron in one of them, receiving a shank of only three-eighths
of an inch diameter without using a wrench."
Fig. 31A represents the shell of the chuck with milled bosses for the
fingers. The core, B, is threaded and receives a steel wire spring
which is inserted into the rear of each jaw, so that when relieved
from pressure, the jaws open automatically.
[Illustration: FIG. 31A.]
With this brief explanation, the operation of the chuck can be easily
comprehended. These chucks are made of two sizes, one with an opening
of three-eighths of an inch, and the other of three-sixteenths of an
inch, and they can be made of larger sizes. Patented by L. H. Olmsted,
Stamford, Connecticut, United States America.
Another chuck of self centering design, has likewise appeared in the
periodical above named, into which it appears to have been copied from
an American paper.
The accompanying engravings illustrate some improvements in the
arrangement of chucks which have been recently patented in this
country, the inventors being Messrs. Smith and Haight, both of New
York, U.S. The first part of the invention refers to an arrangement
of adjustable chuck, by means of which tools and other articles of
different diameters may be held firmly in the jaws of the chuck. Fig.
31B is a longitudinal view of the chuck, partly in section. The
spindle, _a_, is fitted so that it may be inserted tightly in the
mandrel of the lathe. On the front end of the spindle is a conical
screw on which is fitted the cap, _b_; this part is formed with an
opening at the front end, having three longitudinal slots in it. In
each of these slots an adjustable jaw, _c_, is fitted, the inner part
of which is threaded with a female screw, to fit the conical screw on
the spindle, _a_. An outer casing _d_, encloses the front part of the
chuck, and behind this is fitted a loose collar, which is screwed into
the casing _d_, so as to connect the parts firmly together. By turning
the cap, _b_, with the casing, _d_, and collar, in one direction, the
jaws, _c_, are moved forward and project out through the openings, and
they may thus be adjusted to grip a tool or other article of small
diameter. The opposite motion of the cap causes the jaws to recede,
and in this way they may be adjusted to grasp articles of different
diameters.
[Illustration: FIG. 31B.]
Another arrangement of the adjustable chuck is shown in Fig. 31C,
which is a front view, and Fig. 31D, a longitudinal section of the
same. A, is the body of the chuck, the front part of which is formed
with a rim or flange, in which are three radial recesses having
fitted therein the sliding jaws, B. In the rear of each jaw is a
bearing, in which is fitted a pin carrying a small lever, C, the
front end of which is rounded, as shown in the section, and enters a
slot made in the jaw, B; so that when the levers are moved outwards
they cause the jaws to contract or move towards the centre. The
back part of the body, A, of the chuck is threaded, and on this part
is fitted a collar, D, and in front of this is a sliding collar, E,
which is connected to the collar, D, by means of a pin which enters
a groove formed in the latter. The sliding collar is prevented from
turning round on the body, A, by means of a feather, which works in a
longitudinal groove formed in the inner circumference of the collar.
Three inclined planes, F, are formed on the periphery of the collar,
E, which extend to the backward ends of the levers, C, so that by
moving the collar to and fro, the jaws, B, are caused to contract or
expand, according to the size of the article to be grasped. A short
cylindrical block, G, made of a conical figure internally is fitted
loosely within the chuck, A, and serves to centre the end of a drill
or other short article, but may be removed when it is desired to pass
a rod or other article through the body of the chuck. To provide for
the easy turning of the collar, D, it is shown as fitted with a hand
wheel, H. With this arrangement of the several parts, the jaws of the
chuck readily adapt themselves to drill or bit shanks as well as to
articles of parallel form, or of a tapered or irregular figure.
[Illustration: FIG. 31C.]
[Illustration: FIG. 31D.]
The chucks last named belong to the class of compound or mechanical
tools; and though their usefulness is beyond question, they need
not be considered absolutely necessary, as the work which they are
designed to facilitate can be and often is done without their aid.
Indeed, success in the art of turning by no means depends absolutely
upon the possession of expensive apparatus, and the amateur or
mechanic will find the advantage of ransacking his own brain for the
devising of divers makeshifts and off-hand contrivances--especially
in this chuck-making department.
Among the simple expedients the following will be found well worthy of
adoption.
A, Fig. 32, is a simple flange or flat brass plate with a boss behind,
similar to a small face plate, and is to be turned up, drilled, and
tapped to fit the mandrel. If the latter has a diameter of 3/4 of an
inch, a few of these brass pieces should be cast from a set of wooden
patterns ranging from two to three or four inches across the diameter
of the plate, and, after having been fitted to the mandrel and turned,
four holes, countersunk for wood screws, should be made, as shown in
the sketch. These are intended to do away with the necessity of boring
out and tapping each individual wooden chuck. They can be readily
attached to any piece of wood by four screws, and a few minutes will
be sufficient to adapt the same to any required purpose. A flat piece
of board, for instance, itself too thin, or of too soft substance to
permit of its being attached to the mandrel in the ordinary way, can
thus be made into a temporary face plate, or a ring cut out of it, or
any desired operation performed upon it. Indeed, these socket pieces
will be found serviceable on many occasions, and will do away with the
necessity of a large set of cup chucks.
[Illustration: FIG. 32.]
A few of the latter, however, are very useful and will cost but
little. The castings are sold by weight, and the turner will
experience no difficulty in fitting and finishing them for himself.
Fig. 33 is the form of these, and needs no description. The substance
may be from 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch, and need not be more, as that
thickness will stand any reasonable shock caused by driving a piece
of wood into the chuck, and it is always well not to overweight the
mandrel with chucks of undue size or substance. The addition of
three to six screws to one or two sizes of the cup chuck extends its
usefulness. This form is represented in Fig. 34, A and B. In this
case, the casting may be rather more substantial (1/4 to “3/8 of an
inch in thickness). The screws _must be strictly radial_, pointing to
the centre of the circle, and their ends must be turned off or filed
flat. Their heads may be squared to enable a key or pair of pincers to
be applied, or round with a hole through them. It is better to make
this kind of chuck with six screws--three in one plane, and three
again _between_ these in another plane behind them. In fitting a piece
of work into the chuck, it will not at first be found an easy matter
to make it run truly. The best way is to centre it as nearly as can
be guessed, by means of the three screws nearest to the open end of
the chuck, and then, placing the latter on the mandrel, set the lathe
in slow motion and correct the eccentricity of the piece by means of
the three inner screws. Even after this it is probable that a little
alternate slackening and tightening of the different screws may be
necessary; but a little practice will quickly enable the turner to set
a piece of work in the true axial line of the mandrel without much
difficulty, and the work will then be held very securely. Any short
piece, such as the ring of an eccentric to be bored truly inside, may
be held by the outer set of screws alone; but if such a piece of work
as a small cylinder is to be bored, the six screws must be brought
into action. Here let the hint given when speaking of projecting
screws, be repeated, _Beware of the knuckles_, which are peculiarly
liable to be damaged in making use of these chucks. The shirt sleeve
or coat, moreover, does not always enjoy perfect immunity from similar
danger, and both should be kept out of harm's way, not for their own
sake only, but because the arm may be brought into violent contact
with the rest if the sleeve should get entangled (the momentum of the
flywheel being great, and therefore not to be checked entirely at any
given moment). A single rap of the above nature is not a _delightful_
even if _salutary_ lesson to the novice.
[Illustration: FIG. 33.]
[Illustration: FIG. 34.]
To hold rings and washers a tapering mandrel, Fig. 35, is used;
and of these it is necessary to keep a few different sizes to suit
different diameters. These may be made of iron or brass if for
permanent use, but box or other hard wood is a ready substitute, and
may be turned down for smaller work when the surface gets spoiled by
use. The expanding mandrel, "Hicks' patent," which will be treated of
hereafter, is a convenient substitute for the simple conical form here
spoken of; and in manufactories where large numbers of mandrels have
to be kept of various sizes, a great saving of time, money, and labour
is effected by their use. For amateurs and artisans in a smaller
way of business the simpler form is generally sufficient. A slight
modification is here appended, by which the common form may sometimes
be made more efficient in the holding a ring tightly while undergoing
the operation of turning, and this can be made applicable to metal
mandrels, though specially intended for wooden ones. Fig. 36.
[Illustration: FIG. 35.]
[Illustration: FIG. 36.]
The mandrel having been turned conical (N.B., the angle of the cone
must be small, so that the size will diminish very gradually from the
largest end), the wood is divided by a fine saw, just as the chuck
already described with the outside rings was sawn into segments, a
conical hole having been first made at the smallest end, as shown
in the section _b, b_. Into this a short cone of larger angle is to
be fitted, against the end of which the point of the back centre
will press, tending to drive it into the mandrel, which will thus be
made to expand. The ring to be turned will prevent the mandrel from
splitting by the wedge-like action of the plug, unless the said ring
is of light substance, in which case this form must not be used. The
work will, by the above method, be securely and centrally held and not
liable to slip towards the small end of the chuck.
In the Fig. 36, a groove, _c, c_, is shown at the bottom of the
saw-cuts. This should also be made round the boxwood spring chucks
with rings, as it gives more freedom of expansion to the segments.
With such a groove and the chuck itself completely hollowed out,
the pressure of a _strong_ india-rubber ring will be sufficient to
hold work whilst being polished: and this will, when the latter is
delicate, be even superior to the screwed rings, as the pressure
will be more gentle and equable. India-rubber rings for this purpose
must not be thin and flat, like those used for bundles of papers or
letters, but made of round material, the thickness of a quill or even
larger. They may be had of all sizes at an india-rubber warehouse
in Holborn, at the bottom of the hill on the left hand side going
eastward, and not far from Negretti and Zambra's shop. The writer is
not acquainted with the name of the proprietor.
Having had occasion to speak of tapping chucks of metal to fit the
mandrel, it will be as well to speak here of the requisite tools for
effecting this.
In the case of iron chucks it is not likely, as a general rule, that
the amateur or workman will obtain access to a screw-cutting lathe,
and to cut an internal thread by hand with the chasing tool is hardly
feasible, though readily accomplished in the case of brass chucks.
When, therefore, a lathe is purchased, a set of taps of the diameter
and pitch of the screw on the mandrel should be provided. Of these
there must be three--an entering taper tap, an intermediate one
rather less tapering, and a plug tap, which is cylindrical. And here
we must enter a caution. Do not let the tapering taps be too long.
For instance, let it be required to tap the boss of a face plate in
which the hole cannot be drilled through the plate. It is first bored
out to the size of the _bottom_ of the mandrel threads, or rather
less. Tap number one must then be screwed into it; but if this is too
long, so that it cannot enter to the end of the threads cut upon it,
the second tap will be too large and will not enter properly, but
will most likely start a new thread for itself and spoil the first.
Fig. 37, _a_, _b_, _c_, shows the form required; _d_, the form to be
avoided, except in cases where, as in the cup chucks, a hole can be
made quite through the article, so that the tapering tap can be worked
to the line _x, y_, or nearly so. The long tap, _gradually_ tapering
as it does from end to end, is of course the easiest to use, and for
nuts and such like is far the best; the conical tap of larger angle
requires more power, but in the case named it is a matter of necessity
to use it; and, if preferred, a set of four taps instead of three will
remedy any difficulty. The novice must take great care to place the
tap perpendicular to the face of the chuck, or the shoulder will not
fit close to that on the mandrel. If much difficulty is experienced,
such an arrangement as Fig. 38 may be of service. A represents the
standard of an upright drill-post, of which B is the bench, C the
screw by which to depress the drill and keep it to the cut. For the
latter, and brace by which it is worked, substitute the tap, and place
a spanner or wrench round the head of it. In the centre mark, which
is generally left from the turning, place screw point _c_. By means
of a plumb line or square, D, test the perpendicularity of the tap;
and as the latter penetrates, keep it to its work by the screw C; oil
the tap freely, and the chuck will be easily and accurately cut with
the required thread. Some kind of clamp will of course be required to
secure the chuck to B, while it is being tapped.
[Illustration: FIG. 37.]
[Illustration: FIG. 38.]
The upright drill should always have a place in the workshop. It is
much easier to drill with it than in the lathe, and the mandrel will
thus be saved considerably. The latter should never be used except
for light work. A variety of drilling apparatus will hereafter be
described in this series, so that we need not now write more upon this
part of our subject.
Somewhat akin to the chuck described as the cup chuck with six screws,
is a chuck mentioned in an old French work,[1] the purpose of which
is to turn up a cylinder, with a point at the end, so as to insure
the axial line being kept. In the ordinary course, the cylinder would
be turned up with the point and carrier, or driver, chuck already
described; the conical point would be then turned down as far as
possible, and the mark of the back centre afterwards turned off by
means of the boring collar. It is by help of a miniature lathe and
boring collar in one piece that the pivots of the balance of a watch
are finished. In both cases the work may be well done by the same
process. The chuck now to be described requires no boring collar,
but at the same time it does not seem to be well suited for any but
light work; in which latter case however it would be advantageous,
and must therefore have a place in our present paper. The body of
the chuck is shown in section, in Fig. 39. A is the socket with
screw to fit on the mandrel of the lathe. It will be seen that the
chuck itself is hollowed out cylindrically, and in this cylindrical
cavity slides a plug, _c_, bored conically, which can be fixed by a
thumb-screw, _h_, traversing a slot in the body of the chuck. This
cone is destined to receive one end of the cylinder to be pointed,
which will, according to its diameter, centre itself in some part of
the conical hole in the plug. The latter is made movable, so as to be
adapted to the length of the article to be turned. At the outer end
of the chuck is a groove dovetailed to receive a slide, shown clearly
in the cross section B. The slide must be of sufficient substance to
allow a clamping screw, _f_, to be tapped into it at one end, which
screw must be long enough to reach when fully advanced nearly to the
apex of the triangular opening seen in the slide. The action of the
whole contrivance is as follows:--The cylinder to be pointed is placed
in the conical cavity of the plug--the latter slid to or fro till
the point to be turned projects a short distance beyond the mouth of
the chuck through the triangular opening in the front slide; when it
is fixed by a turn of the screw, _f_, which forms the third point of
resistance, the sides of the triangular opening forming the other
two. As the point or apex of the triangle is always in the diameter
of the cylindrical chuck, it will only be necessary to move the slide
itself in order to bring the axis of the cylinder to be turned in a
line with that of the mandrel. As soon as this is accomplished so that
the piece runs truly, the screw, _g_, is turned, and the slide fixed
in position. A good deal of ingenuity is displayed by the inventor of
this chuck, a description of which was published twenty years ago, and
there are very many cases in which it will be called into requisition
by the mechanic. With a little care, moreover, the amateur might make
one for himself--the body of brass or gun metal, the plug and sliding
part of iron or steel.
[1] Manuel de Tourneur par H. Bergeron.
[Illustration: FIG. 39.]
Amongst the various devices connected with the lathe, many of which,
even as makeshifts, are valuable to the turner, is one not generally
known for keeping up the tension of the lathe cord in whatever groove
of the fly wheel or pulley it may be placed. The plan is not more
ingenious than practical, and the writer is acquainted with one
workman, a gasfitter by trade, who has had it in constant use for
many years. Directly over the mandrel pulley is another of larger
diameter, in which are two grooves of equal depth, fig. 40. This
upper pulley is suspended on a movable arm, D, which is pivoted at
E, and kept up by an india-rubber spring, F, or, as in the original
plan (before these rubber cumulators were known), by a cord passing
over a pulley, and having a heavy weight attached, as shown by the
dotted lines. In the fig. A represents the fly wheel, B the mandrel,
C the upper pulley. The lathe cord is very long, and passes upwards
from A, over the upper pulley in groove 1, down again and round the
mandrel, a second time over groove 2 of the upper pulley and down to
the fly wheel. The tension of the cord is thus always the same, and is
regulated by the spring or weight. If the cord is slipped to a smaller
part of the lathe pulley, the slack is instantaneously taken up by the
descent of the weight, and rising of the arm D, which in like manner
yields to allow the cord to be slipped to the larger groove of the
mandrel pulley.
[Illustration: FIG. 40.]
There are many other useful contrivances for chucking work in the
lathe, a few of which will be noticed on a future page. The main
thing to be attended to is the holding securely as well as centrally
the object to be turned. If this is attained, the precise form of
chuck is of little importance, and it matters not whether it be
made of metal or wood. The latter has indeed, in some respects, an
advantage resulting from its elasticity and the ease with which its
form is modified.