the West by the Great Ocean, so falsely called the Pacific; divided on
the North from Peru by the desert tract of Atacoma; and on the East,
from Buenos Ayres, by the chain of the Cordilleras, or Andes, whose
snow-covered summits are diversified by the columns of fire continually
emitted from numerous volcanoes; on the South it extends as far as the
Straits of Magellan, and indeed also claims the wholly useless island of
Terra del Fuego, which is rarely, if ever, visited by a Chilian.
The Spaniard Valdivia may be considered as the real discoverer of Chili.
He established here the first Spanish settlement, the present capital,
St. Jago, and subsequently, the town of Conception. For a long time the
Spaniards were engaged in bloody and uninterrupted war with the original
inhabitants of the country, called Araucanians. This strong and
enterprising people withdrew into the mountains, where they were
invincible, and from whence they have continued, to the present day, to
annoy the descendants of the intruders, who acknowledge and have
hitherto respected their independence. They still preserve in their
mountains and fastnesses their ancient mode of living, and remain
faithful to the religion and manners of their ancestors. Unluckily for
the Spaniards, they have become very dangerous neighbours by providing
themselves with horses, which, as they are skilful riders, enable them
to execute their predatory expeditions with a rapidity that renders them
almost always successful. A few of them have settled in the valleys, at
the foot of the mountains, and adopted the Christian religion, without
however amalgamating with the Spaniards, or losing their freedom.
The lower class of the present inhabitants of Chili is a mixed race,
sprung from the union of Spaniards with Araucanian women: they are well
grown, of a dark brown complexion, and have a lively red in their
cheeks. The men are all good riders, and have brought to great
perfection the art of catching wild animals with the _lasso_. The upper
classes have preserved their Spanish blood pure: they are also very well
formed, the females nearly always handsome, and some of them remarkably
beautiful. La Pérouse found them decorated with metal rings; they now
adorn themselves with much taste in Parisian fashions, which reach them
by the way of Peru: their manners, though they do not approach so nearly
to the forms of European society as do those of the upper ranks in Rio
Janeiro, are nevertheless not deficient in refinement.
The climate resembles that of the middle of France, and vegetation
thrives abundantly in its fertile soil. Among many kinds of native
animals, the wild goats are the most numerous, and are scarcely ever
tamed. Chili is particularly rich in beautiful birds; troops of parrots
are seen on the wing; humming-birds, and butterflies of all kinds, hover
round the flowers, and swarms of lantern-flies sparkle through the
night; while venomous insects and snakes are unknown.
This fine country has been long neglected. Spanish jealousy allowed no
trade with foreign nations; and the introduction of the Inquisition was
sufficient to prevent all mental advancement. The inhabitants are also
justly accused of idleness, in not having taken more advantage of the
productiveness of their soil. Now, however, that they have thrown off
the yoke under which their industry was oppressed, and burst the fetters
of the Inquisition, which bowed down their minds, they begin to be
ashamed of the low grade of civilization on which they stand, in
comparison with other nations, and are exerting themselves to attain a
more respectable station in the scale.
The Chilians are chiefly indebted for their independence to the
well-known General San Martin. In the year 1817, he made the celebrated
campaign over the Andes from Buenos Ayres, attacked and completely
defeated the Spaniards, and laid the foundation of the freedom of Chili.
It is now governed by plenipotentiaries from all the provinces, under
the presidency of General Freire.
The Bay of Conception is a most eligible resting-place for the voyager
in these seas to touch at, on account of its safe and commodious
harbour, its abundant supply of provisions, and the healthiness of its
climate. Evidently destined by nature for the central point of Chilian
commerce, it must certainly supersede the unsafe roads of Valparaiso.
Freire has already determined to establish an Admiralty in the
neighbourhood of Talcaguana, and as much as possible to encourage the
population of that part of the country. The village of Talcaguana,
consisting of about fifty small and poor houses, and another still
smaller, called Pencu, have been the only settlements on this bay since
the destruction, in the year 1751, of the old town of Conception by an
earthquake--no uncommon occurrence in these regions. The new town of
this name has been built farther inland, on the banks of the beautiful
river Biobio, and is seven miles distant from Talcaguana.
Early in the morning on the 18th of January, I went with Dr. Eschscholtz
to Talcaguana, where horses were in waiting to take us to Conception.
The heavy, clumsy cars drawn by oxen, which I believe I described in my
former voyage, are the only kind of carriage known here; and as even the
ladies use these only on state occasions, they perform all their
journeys, as in days of old, on horseback.
The Russian flag having waved here but twice since the foundation of the
world, curiosity had brought a great crowd to witness my disembarkation;
and as it was now ascertained that the Captain was the same who, eight
years before, had so much delighted the inhabitants with a ball, many
of my old acquaintances and guests had assembled to welcome me. I could
not resist their kind and pressing invitations to visit them once more,
before going to Conception. I was received with the greatest cordiality,
and all possible pains were taken to entertain me; but they complained
sadly of the ravages of war, which had brought its usual concomitants,
poverty and ruin, in its train. A melancholy change had taken place
since my former visit; some of the wealthiest families had removed from
Lima, and a striking difference was perceptible in the establishments of
those that remained; while the silver utensils which formerly had been
so common even among the poorer inhabitants, had wholly disappeared, and
were replaced by a bad description of stone ware.
The same traces of desolation were visible along the once beautiful road
to Conception, whither we proceeded on spirited horses, as soon as we
had paid the required visits. Instead of the numerous flocks and herds
which once adorned the meadows, burnt villages, uncultivated fields,
devastated orchards, and swarms of beggars, presented a painful picture
of universal want and misery. Such are the heavy sacrifices with which
Chili has purchased her independence. May she enjoy their fruits under a
government sufficiently wise and powerful to restore her prosperity!
Our two hours' ride afforded ample time and scope for these reflections;
and on reaching the town, we were concerned to find similar symptoms of
misfortune. A great part of it lay in ruins; and the houses yet standing
were occupied, not by useful citizens, or active, speculating merchants,
but by soldiers. The former have, with few exceptions, withdrawn from
Conception to Mexico and Peru. But the war of the Revolution is not
chargeable with all the desolation which has befallen this unhappy town.
A year before it broke out, a great horde of wild Araucanians, availing
themselves of an opportunity when the Chilian troops were elsewhere
employed, fell so suddenly upon the town during the night, that the
inhabitants, who had not the slightest warning till the enemy was within
their walls, were unable to defend themselves. Well knowing that they
could not maintain their post, the Araucanians were active in the work
of rapine and murder, and at length withdrew to their mountains laden
with rich booty.
These Araucanians, among whom such expeditions are not unfrequent, are,
according to the accounts of officers here, a very warlike people, well
armed with bows, arrows, and lances: they make their onset in great
hordes, with a wild yell, and with such fury and rapidity that it is not
easy even for regular troops to resist. If this, however, can be firmly
withstood, they are in a few minutes defeated and put to flight. When
pursued, they escape shots and sabre strokes by the dexterity with which
they fling themselves on either side of their horses; sometimes even
hanging under the horse's belly while it is going at full gallop. When
escape is impossible, they defend themselves to the last, preferring
death to captivity.
From Rio Janeiro I had brought a letter of introduction to a once rich
and still prosperous merchant in Conception, named Mendiburu; I
immediately sought him out, and was received and entertained with the
kindest hospitality. His house proved to be the same which, on my
former visit to Conception, the then Governor had appointed for my
accommodation. At that time many discontented spirits had already shown
themselves, had assumed the appellation of patriots, and were persecuted
by the Government; Mendiburu was one of these, and having made his
escape, the Government, till its overthrow, had kept possession of his
house.
My complaisant host, a little man, rather advanced in years, who in many
respects was extremely useful to us, accompanied us, as soon as we had
arranged our dress, to the President Freire. The latter received us in
the full uniform of a general officer, with the most ceremonious
politeness, but still kindly, although something of distrust might be
perceived in his deportment.
Our circumstances with respect to Spain were known; and, as I afterwards
learned, it was absurdly enough imagined, that Russia had designs upon
Chili, and that these formed the secret motive of our visit. Freire, who
had already distinguished himself as a general, is a stately-looking
man, at that time about forty-five years of age, and of a very agreeable
exterior; he was born in Talcaguana, of very poor parents, and, without
enjoying any particular advantage of education, has raised himself, by
his own merit alone, to the high rank he occupies.
After an unmeaning sort of conversation, consisting of little else than
civilities, I endeavoured to procure the permission of the President for
our naturalist and mineralogist to make a journey into the Cordilleras,
which he, however, politely but positively refused, on the ground that
the Chilians were at war with the people in the mountains. I afterwards
learnt from Mendiburu, that this was merely a pretence, as the President
had already succeeded in establishing peace and an amicable league with
the Araucanians. A small military escort would therefore have been amply
sufficient to protect the travellers from all danger of annoyance; but
here the weakness of the newly established government betrayed itself.
They are distrustful of strangers, and act upon the old Spanish
maxim,--to close the interior of the country against them. The recent
discovery of gold and silver mines in the mountains, which was still
kept secret, from the fear that foreign powers might covet these
treasures, probably, also, contributed to a refusal which has
undoubtedly proved, for the present, a serious loss to science. All the
arguments I could urge to obviate the President's objections were
ineffectual: all I could obtain for our learned associates was
permission to travel round the bay of Conception and the environs of
Talcaguana, for which a passport was made out; and a subaltern officer
was appointed to accompany them, who in all probability had also his
private instructions to see that the journey extended no farther.
Overwhelmed with courtesies and promises to make our residence here as
agreeable as possible, we left the President, and concluded the day in
pleasant society at the house of our host Mendiburu, who on the
following morning accompanied us back to Talcaguana. He had the
complaisance to surrender for our accommodation and the convenience of
our astronomical observations, a large house belonging to him in
Talcaguana, which had once been inhabited by La Pérouse. I took
immediate possession of it, and our time was now very agreeably divided
between the necessary attention to the repairs and provisioning of the
ship, scientific observations, and the society of the hospitable
natives.
The little town was soon filled with warlike tumult. A grenadier
regiment from Conception marched in with drums beating and a very good
band playing. The uniform was in the French fashion, clean and
substantial; the muskets were in the best order.
Freire has most zealously exerted himself to raise a respectable army;
but to bring a rabble of adventurers from all nations into proper
discipline is no easy task, especially where there is not money enough
to pay them punctually; even the officers are mostly foreigners, and,
with few exceptions, ignorant and stupid beyond all belief. With such a
soldiery, patriotism or enthusiasm in the cause is of course out of the
question. The Chilian soldier fights like a robber, for the sake of the
booty he hopes to acquire; and covetousness will form the foundation of
his valour, till increase of population shall permit the organization of
a national militia.
A few regiments had been sent over to the island of Quiquirino, perhaps
in order to render desertion more difficult: here they had formed a
camp, and were exercised in various manoeuvres. The whole force,
consisting of three thousand men, was destined, under the command of the
President, to attack the island of Chiloe, the only spot still remaining
in possession of the Spaniards. They were now waiting the arrival of the
requisite vessels from Valparaiso.
On the 20th of January, amidst the thunder of the artillery, a new
Constitution was proclaimed at Conception, signed there in great form by
Freire, and afterwards read in many other towns of the Republic. Some of
the inhabitants received it with enthusiasm, but it by no means gave
satisfaction to all. In Talcaguana, opinions were much divided, and
loudly and undisguisedly expressed. In every company the new
Constitution became the chief subject of conversation, and often gave
occasion to violent disputes. Even the ladies were not exempt from this
political mania: they gave their opinions with unhesitating confidence
and decision, and, in fact, often appeared fully as capable of forming
a correct judgment as the men.
Without entering into these criticisms, I shall only remark, that one
regulation of the Chilian Constitution must certainly be
disadvantageous--the public exercise of any other religion than the
Catholic is forbidden; Catholics only can fill civil offices (with the
military such strictness is impracticable); nor is any one permitted to
carry on a mechanical trade who does not belong to this Church.
If the advantage of universal toleration is so evident in the most
flourishing states, how much more desirable must it be for one so thinly
peopled, and where industry and knowledge are so little advanced.
We frequently received visits on board from the ladies and gentlemen of
Chili; and once from an Araucanian chief, accompanied by his daughter
and some attendants. A collation was prepared for the Araucanians, of
which they heartily partook; and despising the knife and fork, helped
themselves plentifully with their fingers. The meal being concluded, we
made them some trifling presents, with which they were much delighted;
the chief also begged a piastre, and his daughter (a true woman, though
a savage,) a looking-glass. After she had contemplated her features for
some time with much satisfaction, the treasure was passed from hand to
hand among her people, who all appeared extremely well content with the
reflection of their own faces, although, according to our ideas of
beauty, none of them had any cause for vanity. They are of the middle
stature, strongly built, and of dark complexions. Their hair is black,
and hangs loosely over their shoulders; and their little Chinese eyes,
and prominent cheek-bones, seemed to indicate an Asiatic origin. The
expression of their faces is good-natured, lively, and rather
intelligent. Their dress is very simple, consisting merely of a piece of
many-coloured striped woollen stuff of their own manufacture: in shape,
it is an oblong square, with a hole in the centre through which the head
is passed, the longer ends hanging down to the knee before and behind,
the shorter at each side falling over the shoulders, and the lower part
of their limbs remaining bare. The Spanish Chilians call this garment a
_pancho_, and often use it in winter as a surtout: among the common
people it makes the daily, and sometimes even the only clothing.
The officers of the regiment stationed here politely gave a ball in our
honour, which, as might be expected in this poor village, did not prove
very brilliant; but as my young officers found plenty of pretty and
agreeable partners, they were perfectly satisfied. The old custom of
opening a ball with a minuet is still practised here, and the Chilians
dance it remarkably well.
Besides the dances common among us, a sort of fandango is a favourite
here: it is expressly adapted to display the graces of a fine figure to
the best advantage, and is danced by two persons, whose picturesque
attitudes and motions are accompanied on the guitar, and by tender
songs, according in expression with the pantomimical representations of
the dance.
We determined to return the complaisance of the natives by giving a ball
on board our ship to our acquaintances in Talcaguana, and some from
Conception. My officers made every effort to surpass the Chilians in the
elegance of their entertainment; and having been detained on shore
during their preparations, and till the hour appointed for the ball, I
was really astonished to see how much they had been able to achieve. The
deck was changed into a large illuminated saloon, decorated with fine
myrtle trees, luxuriant garlands, and bouquets of flowers of every
colour, exhaling the sweetest perfumes, and appropriate transparencies
in the background opposite the entrance. The cabins had been cleared for
refreshment-rooms; and the musicians, concealed behind a curtain, were
to pour forth their animating strains unseen by the dancers. The
cheerful scene was rapidly filled with cheerful faces; graceful figures
moved in the lively dances; and love and beauty alone seemed to preside
within the joyous precincts. But suddenly a universal confusion and
panic terror was spread among the company, and chiefly among the ladies.
Some suspicious simpleton or mischievous wag had whispered that we had a
design of secretly weighing anchor during this festivity, and sailing
away with our beautiful prisoners. My friend Mendiburu, however, at
length succeeded in banishing this ridiculous apprehension, and
restoring tranquillity. Pleasure and confidence again reigned over the
revels, till the sun stood high in the heavens; and like every other
earthly enjoyment, even our ball drew to a close, though it bade fair to
linger long in the recollection as well of our returning guests as of
some of the young entertainers.
The delightful weather tempted us, soon after this, to make an excursion
to the opposite shores of the bay, and visit the ruins of the old town
of Conception. Mendiburu was of the party, as were all of our scientific
brethren, and as many of the officers as duty permitted to be absent.
Very early, on a beautiful morning, we distributed our party in three
large boats, and rowed, in two hours, to the destined point. We landed
at the village of Pencu, which, like Portici upon Herculaneum, is built
upon the ruins of the former town of Conception, and whose inhabitants
live quietly and cheerfully over the graves of their unfortunate
predecessors, and disturb themselves little with the thought, that the
same fate may bury them one day in a living tomb.
About fifteen houses, surrounded by gardens, lie scattered here over a
lovely plain, watered by the small river St. Peter. Nature here appears
more luxuriant and productive than at Talcaguana. The mountains which
encircle this valley rise gently to a moderate height, and delight the
eye by the freshness of the shrubs with which they are covered.
While we gave chase to many kinds of birds and insects for the
improvement of our collection, the sailors threw out a great net, and
took a quantity of shell and other fish with which the sea abounds in
this neighbourhood, and which make the chief subsistence of the poorer
classes of people. The environs of this village are considered the
loveliest district round the bay, and infinitely surpassing Talcaguana
in the beauty of its scenery. Few remains of the old town are visible.
The earth seems to have actually opened and swallowed it up, leaving
scarcely a trace behind. Even the yawning gulph in which it sunk has
filled again, so that it is only here and there upon the plain that some
fragment of a former dwelling reminds one of the fearful catastrophe.
The inhabitants of Talcaguana and Conception make excursions to Pencu,
to examine, as a curiosity, a water-mill established there by some
foreigner. We found it so out of repair as to be unserviceable, and the
owner complained that he could find no one capable of mending it. The
wheat is here ground to flour by beating it in stone pots with heavy
wooden clubs; which may serve to give some idea of the progress the
Chilians have made in the useful arts.
Mendiburu possessed an estate near Pencu, where we partook of a pleasant
meal under the shade of fruit-trees. After dinner the whole company went
shooting, and in the course of a few hours had killed several hundred
water-birds of various kinds. The flocks in which they fly are sometimes
so numerous as to darken the air. During our absence such a one was
descried from the ship; it appeared a solid mass of about ten fathoms
broad, and its flight lasted full three hours.
The repairs of our ship had gone on quickly, and the time approached for
our leaving Chili, when we perceived that the friendliness and civility
we had hitherto experienced from the inhabitants was changing into
reserve and evident distrust. Secret cabals were going on against us;
and even the Government seemed inclined to act, if not with positive
hostility, at least violently and arbitrarily towards us.
The attention of the unreflecting and easily excited Chilians had first
been attracted by the mustachios worn by one of my companions. They took
him for a disguised Spaniard, who had accompanied us to sow discontents,
and gain back the hearts of the people to the old government. Other
misrepresentations may also have been made against us; but we were
neither able to discover them, nor the actual intentions entertained
towards us.