entered the church in procession, surrounded by the Knights of the
Southern Cross; they were met by the Bishop and the whole body of the
clergy, and conducted with great pomp to a throne erected at the right
side of the altar, which the Emperor ascended, while his consort took
her place in a pew on the left. After the service, performed by a good
choir to excellent music, the Bishop came forward and delivered a very
long discourse, descriptive of the various virtues of the Emperor,
comparing him to Peter the Great of Russia, and pointing out how he
ought to administer the government for the good of his subjects. The
comparison he was pleased to institute between the monarch and his
illustrious namesake is only so far just, as, in the uncultivated state
of the two nations, both have had similar materials to work upon.
Whether Don Pedro, with much greater means, will effect as much as our
immortal Peter, time will show. One of the hopes of Brazil is already
extinguished by the death of the Empress, who in a short time had done
much for science and the arts. When the sermon was over, their Majesties
returned to the Palace, amidst an uninterrupted firing of cannon. They
then received the congratulations of the court, and at four o'clock the
Emperor reviewed in the great market-place, where a temple was erected
for the imperial family, a body of four thousand five hundred troops,
formed in a half circle round the temple. In their venerable commander,
Don José de Currado, a field-marshal, of eighty years of age, I joyfully
recognised the former governor of St. Katharine's, who, on my first
voyage round the world, under the command of the present Admiral
Krusenstein, received me so hospitably. The observations I had an
opportunity of making upon the soldiers, before the arrival of the
Emperor, were not altogether unfavourable; though, it must be confessed,
the good people seemed to have no very high notion of discipline;
smoking, and all kinds of irregularities, being permitted even in the
front ranks. Their uniform was handsome and suitable; that of the
musicians chiefly attracted my attention. Every colonel of a regiment
has the right of dressing his band according to his fancy; and as tastes
are very various, so of course are these costumes, though the Asiatic
predominates; some being attired as Turks, others as Indians. In one
regiment, indeed, a quantity of coloured feathers, worn on the head and
round the body, formed the only covering.
As soon as the Emperor and Empress, both on horseback and surrounded by
a splendid court, were seen in the distance, the cannon sent forth its
loudest roar, the soldiers threw away their cigars, the multitude waved
their hats, the ladies in the balconies their white
pocket-handkerchiefs, and all shouted "Viva l'Emperador." The cortège
approached slowly; the Emperor, from the superior richness of his
uniform, glittering amidst the splendid throng, like Syrius in the
starry sky. His colossal figure seemed literally covered with gold lace;
his breast sparkled with diamonds, and his strong features were shaded
by a hat richly decorated with jewels. The Express was more tastefully
attired in a simple black riding-dress, embroidered with gold. When she
had taken her place in the temple, his Majesty assumed the command of
the troops and paraded them before her. As soon as his powerful voice
was heard, the thunder of the cannon again burst forth; the Turks,
Indians, and above-mentioned Popinjays, blew their trumpets, while the
shout from the people of "Viva l'Emperador" was loudest amidst the
uproar. The columns of the military having several times defiled before
the Empress, the parade terminated, and the Imperial family and their
court repaired to the theatre. I had been seated in my box a few minutes
before they entered the building, which was suffocatingly full, and I
was surprised to find it as good in its architecture and arrangements as
the generality of European theatres. The boxes were occupied by whites
only, and many female faces were there to be seen as fair as those of
Northern Europe; the tender red of the youthful cheek, the bright, black
eye and jetty hair increased the attraction of these brilliant
complexions; but many of the ladies have brown, and even very light
hair. Their dress was tastefully arranged in the Parisian fashion: the
art of the toilet appears indeed to be the only one they study, as their
education does not always proceed so far as reading and writing,
although they are not deficient in natural capabilities; their
conversation is often as graceful and piquant as that of European
ladies. Nor is general information much more extended among the
gentlemen, as the following anecdote will testify. When, in 1817, the
Russian frigate Kamschatka anchored in the Port of Rio Janeiro, it was
visited by many Brazilians of rank, and amongst others by an officer who
expressed much surprise at finding a crucifix in the cabin. He knew,
indeed, that the Russians professed the Greek religion, but was wholly
ignorant that this church formed any part of the Christian community.
It is the custom here to pay visits in the theatre, which are indeed
more highly prized than those made at their houses, as the attention is
more publicly manifested. On these occasions the animated intercourse
between the young people of the different sexes is frequently
accompanied by glances sufficiently expressive to betray its object.
The pit presented a very singular appearance, from its assemblage of
various complexions, including every possible shade from black to white,
although the darker tints had greatly the preponderance. Nor was the
distinction of manners among the different portions of the audience less
striking. No theatre in Europe can boast of more decorum and politeness
than prevails here in the boxes; but the noisy and coarse vulgarity of
the pit would not be tolerated in a more refined nation. All eyes were
eagerly directed towards the Imperial box, when its curtain, which
before had been close drawn, was thrown open; their Majesties then
appeared standing in the front, the back of the box being filled by
Knights of the Southern Cross. Hats and handkerchiefs were now again
waved, and on every side resounded "Viva l'Emperador, l'Emperadriza, la
Monarchia!" This enthusiasm having been rewarded by gracious
acknowledgments, the drop curtain rose, and an actress came forward to
recite a prologue in praise of the Emperor. Then followed a piece of
which I understood very little; and the whole was concluded by a ballet,
greatly superior to my expectations. During the performance, the Emperor
gave audience in his box to many of his subjects, the interview always
beginning with the homage of kissing hands on the bended knee. As soon
as the curtain rose, the company in the pit became tolerably quiet, and
much more attentive than those in the boxes; the latter appearing to
take more interest in conversation with their acquaintances than in the
performance. I paid my respects to Lord Cochrane and his amiable wife in
their box, and remained with them till the conclusion of the piece.
He spoke much of Chili, and wore even on this day of ceremony, a Chilian
uniform and a blue scarf, its honorary decoration. This surprised me the
more, as he seemed dissatisfied with the Chilian government. His
explanation was, that the Emperor had not yet decided what his Brazilian
uniform should be, and consequently, that he was still obliged to wear
that of Chili. The lady preferred Chili to Brazil, and believed that
the heat of this climate did not agree with her health.
On the 27th of November, all our stores being laid in, bidding a cordial
farewell to Brazil, I returned to my ship, intending to continue our
voyage on the following day. Accordingly at five o'clock on the morning
of the 28th we spread our sails, and the ebb-tide and a light breeze
from the North, bore us slowly from this lovely coast. The wind soon
slackened; and we should have been greatly embarrassed but for a number
of boats sent by the English squadron, then lying in the roads, to tow
us out to sea, by which seasonable assistance we were enabled to clear
the bay before evening. The heat of Brazil had not injured the health of
our crew. Fresh provisions, much fruit and vegetables, good lemonade
instead of the ordinary drink, and a sea bath every evening, were the
means I employed for the prevention of sickness. The men were in the
best spirits for encountering the storms of the Southern ocean; and I
destined the port of Conception, on the coast of Chili, for a
resting-place, after having surmounted the difficulties of doubling Cape
Horn.
The result of our repeated observations on land, are as follows:--
Latitude of Botafogo 21° 56' 5" South.
Medium Longitude from various observations 43° 7' 32" West.
Every longitude which is given in the course of this voyage is reckoned
by the distance from Greenwich, going from West to East. The variation
of the needle amounted to 3° East, its inclination to 9° 28'. As the
longitude of Cape Frio has been variously laid down, I took much pains
to ascertain it exactly. By a very good chronometer, I found the
difference between Cape Frio and Botafogo 1° 6' 20"; so that the true
longitude of Cape Frio from Greenwich must be 42° 1' 12".
DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN,
AND
RESIDENCE IN CHILI.
DOUBLING OF CAPE HORN, AND RESIDENCE IN CHILI.
We continued our course to the South very agreeably, with fine weather
and a favourable wind. Under thirty-nine degrees of latitude, however,
we could already perceive how much further the South pole extends its
unfavourable influence than the North. The sky was no longer clear, the
wind became changeable and violent, the air much colder, and the
frequent sight of the whale, and of a giant bird called the albatross,
warned us that we were approaching the stormy region. We afterwards
shot one of these birds on the coast of Chili, which measured twelve
feet across the wings.
In the parallel of Rio de la Plata, although two hundred miles from
land, we were daily carried by the current thirty-nine miles out of our
course towards the south-west; so great is the influence of this mighty
river at the distance of two hundred and forty miles from its mouth.
On the 15th of December, in the beginning of the southern summer, under
forty-seven degrees of latitude, where, if the temperature of both
hemispheres were equal, the climate would have been that of the South of
Germany, or the middle of France, we were overtaken by a violent storm,
accompanied by hail and snow. It began from the south-west, but the
wind, in the course of twenty-four hours, veered the whole round of the
compass, and raised such high and furious billows, that our escape from
destruction afforded ample proof, notwithstanding a considerable leak,
of our ship's strength, and her architect's skill. From this time we
continued our voyage with a fair wind and serene weather.
Between Falkland Islands and the west of Patagonia, we saw great
numbers of storm-birds, betokening the neighbourhood of land, and we
sailed within speaking distance of a North-American whaler. The dirty
ship, and the crew smeared with blubber, had indeed a disgusting
appearance; but if we consider to what toils and dangers these poor men
are exposed during their voyages, which commonly last several years, in
the most tempestuous seas, sometimes sailing about for months without
seeing a fish, and suffering in the meanwhile from the want of wholesome
food, yet pursuing their object with invincible perseverance, it is
impossible to deny them compassion, and even commendation. The North
Americans display an industry and perseverance in their commercial
undertakings, which is not exceeded even by the English: they are to be
met with upon every sea, and in the most unfrequented regions,
disdaining nothing, however trivial, from which they can derive profit.
On the north-west coast of America, they barter with the savages all
kinds of European trifles for the beautiful skin of the sea-otter, which
they sell for a high price in China. Many of their vessels take in
cargoes of sandal-wood in the South-Sea Islands, for which they also
find a good market in China, where it is in great estimation; others
pursue the spermaceti whale in the neighbourhood of Cape Horn, and carry
on an important traffic in this article.
On the morning of the 23rd of December, we saw in the distance the
snow-covered points of the mountains in the dreaded Staten-land. A fresh
breeze carried us so near to this inhospitable and desolate island, that
we could plainly distinguish the objects on it, even without a
telescope. What a contrast to the beauty of Brazil! There nature seems
inexhaustible in her splendour and variety; here she has sparingly
allowed a thin clothing of moss to the lofty masses of black rock.
Seldom do the sun's rays lighten this or the neighbouring island of
Terra del Fuego. Vegetation is so blasted by the perpetual cold and
fogs, that a few miserable stunted trees can scarcely find subsistence
at the foot of the mountains. The sea-birds avoid these barren shores;
the very insects disdain them; the dog, the faithful companion of man,
and man himself, the inhabitant of every climate under heaven, can
alone exist in this; but the warmth of the sun is essential to the
development of his faculties. Here he is a mere animal, and of
disgusting appearance; small, ill-shaped, with dirty copper-coloured
skin, black bristly hair, and devoid of beard. He inhabits a miserable
hut made of boughs covered with dried rushes, and appeases his hunger on
the raw and often half-decayed flesh of the sea animals, whose skins
furnish him with a scanty covering: this is the utmost extent to which
his invention has yet led him, in providing defences against the
roughness of the climate; and the dreariness of his existence is still
unenlivened by any notion of amusement. Yet is this benumbing country
situated in the same degree of southern latitude in which in the
northern lies my beloved Esthonia, where every comfort of civilization
may be enjoyed--the land of my birth, where in the charming form of
woman is "garnered up" the happiness of my life, and where I hope to
rest at last in the haven of friendship and love, till I set out on that
final voyage from which I shall never return.
We had so little wind, that we were only able on the following morning
to double the eastern promontory of Staten-land, Cape John; which our
chronometers fixed, almost precisely, in the same longitude assigned to
it by Captain Cook. I now steered a westerly course along the south
coast of Staten-land, contrary to the usual practice of navigators, who
run from hence to 60 degrees South, expecting in that latitude to meet
with fewer impediments to their passage into the South Sea. Experience
has taught me, moreover, that Cape Horn may be doubled with least loss
of time by keeping near land, where in the summer months good east winds
will often blow, when westerly winds prevail at a distance of forty
miles to sea-ward. When we had passed Staten-land, the Terra del Fuego
lay in equally fearful form to our right. We continued our course with a
moderate north-east wind, and remarked a strong current to the north.
On the noon of the following day we perceived the terrible Cape Horn at
a distance of twenty-five miles, lying in the form of a high, round
mountain before us. A calm, of which we took advantage to shoot some
albatrosses, delayed us for a few hours; but on Christmas-day we doubled
the Cape without the slightest difficulty. In the evening, after sailing
close alongside the little rocky island of Diego Ramirez, inhabited by
immense numbers of sea-birds, we found ourselves in the South Sea. A
favourable east wind swelling our sails, on the 28th of December, we did
our best to clear the island of Terra del Fuego, before a west wind
should impede our progress; but in this we were disappointed, for a
sudden storm drove us out of our course to latitude 59-1/2°. Here, for a
New Year's gift, we fell in with a fresh south wind, which helped us
forward at the rate of eleven miles an hour, and continued to swell our
sails, till on the 5th we lost sight of the Terra del Fuego, and
joyfully continued our voyage northwards. At Cape Horn, Reaumur's
thermometer stood at four degrees; a temperature rendered very
disagreeable by our having so recently suffered from oppressive heat. We
now hailed with renewed enjoyment the daily increasing warmth.
My sailors had heard much of the dreadful storms which raged at all
seasons round Cape Horn, and destroyed so many ships. One of them had
recently read to his messmates the history of Lord Anson's unfortunate
voyage: they were therefore not quite free from apprehension on
approaching this dangerous point, and were agreeably surprised at
passing it so quietly. In their joy they hit on the proud, poetical
idea, that the very elements themselves respected the Russian flag. This
bold imagination took such possession of their minds, that, in the
elevation of their spirits, they resolved to represent it in a
pantomime, to which I willingly assented, as my own cheerfulness greatly
depended on theirs. Accordingly, a throne was erected on the capstan,
adorned with coloured flags and streamers, which we were to take for the
extreme point of Cape Horn, upon which, shrouded in red drapery, with
all becoming dignity and seriousness of aspect, sat the hitherto unknown
God Horn, (begotten and born of the sailors' fancy,) the tremendous
ruler of the winds and waves in this tempestuous ocean. In his strong
right hand he held a large three-pronged oven fork, and in his left a
telescope, with which he surveyed the watery expanse seeking for a
sacrifice. A grey beard smeared with tar, hung down to his knees, and,
probably as a symbol of his marine dominion, instead of a crown, his
head was decorated by a leathern pail. Before him lay a large open book,
and a pen was stuck behind his ear, to write down the names of the ships
which sailed by. The exact purpose of this I could not understand, but
the effect was equally good. Upon the lower step of the throne stood two
full-cheeked sailors, very much painted, holding bellows, to represent
the Winds ready to produce a raging whirlwind at the nod of their ruler.
The God seemed in a very ill humour, till at the appearance of a
three-masted ship, made of some planks nailed together, his visage
suddenly cleared. The crew of the vessel, which was in full sail,
pointed to the Cape, and appeared to rejoice in the expectation of
doubling it safely. Then did the God Horn give the ominous nod, and the
bellows began to work. The ship took in her sails with all possible
expedition, but was nevertheless terribly tossed about. The crew, in
danger of perishing, offered their supplications to the God, who at
length relenting, commanded the winds to subside, and suffered the
vessel to pass on in safety. Soon after another vessel appeared bearing
our flag, which the God no sooner perceived than he descended from his
throne, took the pail respectfully from his head, and made a profound
obeisance, in token of homage to the Russian flag. The Æolian attendants
blew the gentlest gales, and we soon vanished with out-stretched sails
behind our own main-mast. The piece concluded amidst universal applause,
and a double portion of grog served to increase the general
cheerfulness.
Thus opened the year 1824.--The crew believed that, with the passage of
Cape Horn, the greatest danger of the voyage was over, and were full of
life and spirits. On the 15th of January we saw far off the Island of
St. Maria, and on the following morning knew, by the two high mountains
called Biobio's Bosom, from the river which flows between them, that we
were approaching the Bay of Conception. As soon as these hills are
clearly distinguished, the entrance to the bay is easily found.--In
fine weather they are excellent guides.
A brisk south wind carried us swiftly towards the land, which, far from
charming the eye with the picturesque beauty of Brazil, presents an
almost undeviating straight line.--The round sides of the mountains are
but sparingly covered with vegetation, and in this dry season had a
sterile appearance. At noon, having doubled the Island of Quiquirino, at
the the mouth of the bay, we found ourselves in a smooth and spacious
sheet of water, surrounded by crowds of sea-dogs, dolphins, whales, and
water-birds, which abound on the coasts of Chili. This part of the
country is but thinly inhabited, and a few poor and scattered huts only
are visible. During the centuries that it has been in possession of the
Spaniards, it has advanced as little as their other colonies in
cultivation or civilization.
The calm made it impossible on that day to reach the village of
Talcaguana, where ships usually lie at anchor, and we were consequently
obliged in the evening to lay-to at some miles distance.
At twelve o'clock at night, the watch on deck observed a large boat
approaching with caution to within reach of musket-shot. This slinking
about in the dark had a suspicious appearance, especially as the colony
having revolted against the mother-country, was in a state of war. Want
of light prevented our learning the strength of the boat's crew, or what
arms it carried; but we prepared to repel an attack, in which, however,
it was manifest the advantage would be greatly on our side. I ordered
the watch to hail the boat, which in return addressed us through a
trumpet, first in Spanish, and immediately afterwards in English,
inquiring to what nation we belonged, and whence, and for what purpose,
we were come. Upon our reply that we were Russians and good friends, the
boat came nearer, and an officer, well armed with sword and pistols,
came on deck, but was so alarmed on perceiving our state of warlike
preparations, that he did not utter a word till he had satisfied himself
that we were really Russians, and had no hostile intentions.
The cause of his fear lay in the report of a Spanish frigate having
been seen cruising on the coast. This officer was an Englishman, in the
service of the republic of Chili, and lieutenant of a corvette lying
before Talcaguana. He left us with a request, (which was immediately
complied with,) that we would hoist a lantern at our fore-mast, as a
signal of peace to the inhabitants of Talcaguana, among whom our
appearance had spread the greatest anxiety.
Early in the morning I sent an officer ashore to notify our arrival in
proper form to the commandant of the place, and to request his
permission to furnish ourselves with water and fresh provisions, which
was granted in the most courteous manner possible.
Sure of a favourable reception, I immediately weighed anchor, and,
having a good wind, dropped it again at noon, at the distance of a
musket-shot from Talcaguana, in a depth of five and a half fathoms,
after having been fifty days on the voyage from Rio Janeiro, during the
whole of which time the crew had enjoyed the most perfect health.
Besides our own ship, and the above-mentioned corvette, commanded by
Captain Simson, three merchant ships under Chilian, and three whalers
under English colours also lay here. In the afternoon I went ashore
myself, and paid the Commandant a visit; I was received in the most
friendly manner, but with a good deal of Spanish etiquette, by an old
man, who was evidently a zealous republican. He told me, that the first
President of the Republic, Freire, whose authority, he gave me to
understand, would be very instrumental in furthering his efforts to
assist us, was at that moment in the town of Conception. Thither,
therefore, I determined to proceed, hoping to see the President, and
procure from him a written order for our accommodation.
And here, though it interrupt the course of my narrative, I apprehend
some particulars concerning this country may be agreeable to such of my
readers as are strangers to it.