Produced by Robert J. Hall, in loving memory of Florence
May Gautry (1905-2005)
HOW TO COOK FISH
BY OLIVE GREEN
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CONTENTS
CHAP.
I. THE CATCHING OF UNSHELLED FISH
II. FISH IN SEASON
III. ELEVEN COURT BOUILLONS
IV. ONE HUNDRED SIMPLE FISH SAUCES
V. TEN WAYS TO SERVE ANCHOVIES
VI. FORTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK BASS
VII. EIGHT WAYS TO COOK BLACKFISH
VIII. TWENTY-SIX WAYS TO COOK BLUEFISH
IX. FIVE WAYS TO COOK BUTTERFISH
X. TWENTY-TWO WAYS TO COOK CARP
XI. SIX WAYS TO COOK CATFISH
XII. SIXTY-SEVEN WAYS TO COOK CODFISH
XIII. FORTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK EELS
XIV. FIFTEEN WAYS TO COOK FINNAN HADDIE
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XV. THIRTY-TWO WAYS TO COOK FLOUNDER
XVI. TWENTY-SEVEN WAYS TO COOK FROG LEGS
XVII. TWENTY-TWO WAYS TO COOK HADDOCK
XVIII. EIGHTY WAYS TO COOK HALIBUT
XIX. TWENTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK HERRING
XX. NINE WAYS TO COOK KINGFISH
XXI. SIXTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK MACKEREL
XXII. FIVE WAYS TO COOK MULLET
XXIII. FIFTEEN WAYS TO COOK PERCH
XXIV. TEN WAYS TO COOK PICKEREL
XXV. TWENTY WAYS TO COOK PIKE
XXVI. TEN WAYS TO COOK POMPANO
XXVII. THIRTEEN WAYS TO COOK RED SNAPPER
XXVIII. ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY WAYS TO COOK SALMON
XXIX. FOURTEEN WAYS TO COOK SALMON-TROUT
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XXX. TWENTY WAYS TO COOK SARDINES
XXXI. NINETY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK SHAD
XXXII. SIXTEEN WAYS TO COOK SHEEPSHEAD
XXXIII. NINE WAYS TO COOK SKATE
XXXIV. THIRTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK SMELTS
XXXV. FIFTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK SOLES
XXXVI. TWENTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK STURGEON
XXXVII. FIFTY WAYS TO COOK TROUT
XXXVIII. FIFTEEN WAYS TO COOK TURBOT
XXXIX. FIVE WAYS TO COOK WEAKFISH
XL. FOUR WAYS TO COOK WHITEBAIT
XLI. TWENTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK WHITEFISH
XLII. EIGHT WAYS TO COOK WHITING
XLIII. ONE HUNDRED MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES
XLIV. BACK TALK
XLV. ADDITIONAL RECIPES
INDEX
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HOW TO COOK FISH
* * * * *
THE CATCHING OF UNSHELLED FISH
"First catch your hare," the old cookery books used to say, and
hence it is proper, in a treatise devoted entirely to the cooking
of Unshelled Fish, to pay passing attention to the Catching, or
what the Head of the House terms the Masculine Division of the
Subject. As it is evident that the catching must, in every case
precede the cooking--but not too far--the preface is the place
to begin.
Shell-fish are, comparatively, slow of movement, without guile,
pitifully trusting, and very easily caught. Observe the difference
between the chunk of mutton and four feet of string with which one
goes crabbing, and the complicated hooks, rods, flies, and reels
devoted to the capture of unshelled fish.
An unshelled fish is lively and elusive past the power of words to
portray, and in this, undoubtedly, lies its desirability. People
will travel for two nights and a day to some spot
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where all unshelled fish has once been seen, taking $59.99 worth
of fishing tackle, "marked down from $60.00 for to-day only," rent
a canoe, hire a guide at more than human life is worth in courts
of law, and work with dogged patience from gray dawn till sunset.
And for what? For one small bass which could have been bought at
any trustworthy market for sixty-five cents, or, possibly, some
poor little kitten-fish-offspring of a catfish--whose mother's
milk is not yet dry upon its lips.
Other fish who have just been weaned and are beginning to notice
solid food will repeatedly take a hook too large to swallow, and
be dragged into the boat, literally, by the skin of the teeth.
Note the cheerful little sunfish, four inches long, which is caught
first on one side of the boat and then on the other, by the patient
fisherman angling off a rocky, weedy point for bass.
But, as Grover Cleveland said: "He is no true fisherman who is
willing to fish only when fish are biting." The real angler will
sit all day in a boat in a pouring rain, eagerly watching the point
of the rod, which never for an instant swerves a half inch from
the horizontal. The real angler will troll for miles with a hand
line and a spinner, winding in the thirty-five dripping feet of
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the lure every ten minutes, to remove a weed, or "to see if she's
still a-spinnin'." Vainly he hopes for the muskellunge who has just
gone somewhere else, but, by the same token, the sure-enough angler
is ready to go out next morning, rain or shine, at sunrise.
It is a habit of Unshelled Fish to be in other places, or, possibly,
at your place, but at another time. The guide can never understand
what is wrong. Five days ago, he himself caught more bass than
he could carry home, at that identical rocky point. A man from
La Porte, Indiana, whom he took out the week before, landed a
thirty-eight pound "muskie" in trolling through that same narrow
channel. In the forty years that the guide has lived in the place,
man and boy, he has never known the fishing to be as poor as it
is now. Why, even "ol' Pop Somers" has ceased to fish!
But the real angler continues, regardless of the local sage. He
who has heard the line sing suddenly out of his reel, and, after a
hard-fought hour, scooped a six-pound black bass into the landing
net, weary, but still "game," is not dismayed by bad luck. He who
can cast a fly a hundred feet or more finds pleasure in that, if
not in fishing. Whoever has taken in a muskellunge of any size
will ever after troll patiently, even through masses of weed.
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Whoever has leaned over the side of a sailboat, peering down into
the green, crystalline waters of the Gulf, and seen, twenty feet
down, the shimmering sides of a fifteen-pound red grouper, firmly
hooked and coming, will never turn over sleepily, for a last nap,
when his door is almost broken in at 5 A.M.
And, fish or no fish, there are compensations. Into a day of
heart-breaking and soul-sickening toil, when all the world goes
wrong, must sometimes come the vision of a wooded shore, with tiny
dark wavelets singing softly on the rocks and a robin piping cheerily
on the topmost bough of a maple. Tired eyes look past the musty ledger
and the letter files to a tiny sapphire lake, set in hills, with
the late afternoon light streaming in glory from the far mountains
beyond.
It may be cold up North, but down in the Gulf they are fishing--scudding
among the Florida Keys in a little white sailboat, landing for lunch
on a strand as snowy as the northern streets, where the shimmering
distances of white sand are paved with shell and pearl, and the tide
thrums out its old song under the palms. And fish? Two-hundred
and fifty pounds is the average day's catch for a small sailboat
cruising among the Florida Keys.
Yet, when all is said and done, the catching of fish is a matter
of luck--a gambler's chance,
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if you will have it so. The cooking, in unskilled hands, is also
a lottery, but, by following the appended recipes, becomes an art
to which scientific principles have been faithfully applied.
Having caught your fish, you may cook him in a thousand ways, but
it is doubtful whether, even with the finest sauce, a pompano will
taste half as good as the infantile muskellunge, several pounds under
the legal weight, fried unskilfully in pork fat by a horny-handed
woodsman, kneeling before an open fire, eighteen minutes after you
had given up all hope of having fish for dinner, and had resigned
yourself to the dubious prospect of salt pork, eggs, and coffee
which any self-respecting coffee-mill would fail to recognize.
All of which is respectfully submitted by
O.G.
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FISH IN SEASON
Bass--All the year.
Blackfish--April 1 to November 1.
Bluefish--May 1 to November 1.
Butterfish--October 1 to May 1.
Carp--July 15 to November 1.
Codfish--All the year.
Eels--All the year.
Flounder--All the year.
Haddock--All the year.
Halibut--All the year.
Herring--October 1 to May 1.
Kingfish--May 1 to November 1.
Mackerel--April 1 to October 1.
Mullet--June 1 to November 1.
Perch--September 1 to June 1.
Pickerel--June 1 to January 1.
Pike--June 1 to January 1.
Pompano--May 1 to August 1 and November 15 to January 1.
Red Snapper--October 1 to April 1.
Salmon--All the year.
Salmon Trout--October 1 to April 1.
Shad--January 1 to June 1.
Sheepshead--June 15 to November 15.
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Skate--September 1 to July 1.
Smelts--August 15 to April 15.
Sole--November 1 to May 1.
Sturgeon--June 1 to October 15.
Trout--April 1 to September 1.
Turbot--January 1 to July 15.
Weakfish--May 15 to October 15.
Whitebait--May 1 to April 1.
Whitefish--November 1 to March 1.
Salt, smoked, and canned fish are never out of season.
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ELEVEN COURT BOUILLONS
I
Put into the bottom of the fish-kettle a thick layer of sliced
carrots and onion, and a sliced lemon. Season with parsley, thyme,
a bay-leaf, half a dozen whole peppers, and three or four whole
cloves. Lay the fish on top of this and cover with equal parts of
cold water and white wine, or with water and a little lemon-juice
or vinegar. Put the kettle over the fire and let it heat slowly.
The fish must always be put into it while cold and after boiling
allowed to cool in the water.
II
Cut fine a stalk of celery, a carrot, an onion, and a small sweet
pepper. Fry in butter, and add eight cupfuls of water, one cupful
of vinegar, and the trimmings of fish. Season with salt and pepper,
add half a bay-leaf, four cloves, and two sprigs of parsley. Boil
for ten minutes and let cool thoroughly before cooking the fish
in it.
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III
One pint of water, one quart of white wine, one tablespoonful of
butter, a bunch of parsley, four young onions, a clove of garlic,
a bunch of thyme, a bay-leaf, a carrot, and a blade of mace. Bring
to the boil and let cool thoroughly before cooking the fish in
it.
IV
Fry a large onion in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Add half a can
of tomatoes, salt, pepper, allspice, and minced parsley to season,
and half a cupful of tomato catsup. Add also one cupful of sliced
carrot and sufficient water to cover the fish.
V
One onion, two bay-leaves, four whole cloves, a stalk of celery, two
sprigs of parsley and three quarts of cold water. Add any trimmings
of fish at hand, simmer for two hours, season with salt and pepper,
and strain. Cool before using.
VI
Chop fine one onion, one stalk of celery, and two or three sprigs
of parsley. Fry in butter, add two tablespoonfuls of salt, six
pepper-corns, a bay-leaf, three cloves, two quarts of
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boiling water, and two cupfuls of vinegar or sour wine. Boil for
fifteen minutes, strain, and cool. Rub the fish with salt and
lemon-juice before cooking.
VII
Chop fine a large onion and a carrot. Add three bay-leaves, a few
sprigs of parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, and three tablespoonfuls
of tarragon vinegar. Add enough water to cover the fish. The vinegar
may be omitted and equal parts of water and white wine used for
liquid.
VIII
Chop fine a quarter of a pound of bacon and an onion. Fry, add
a can of tomatoes, a chopped clove of garlic, and cayenne, salt,
and pepper to season. Add sufficient boiling water and cook for
fifteen minutes. Cool before putting in the fish.
IX
Half a carrot, half an onion, two cloves, three sprigs of parsley,
three pepper-corns, two tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice or vinegar,
a teaspoonful of salt, a blade of mace, half a bay-leaf, half a
teaspoonful of paprika, a dash of celery salt, and two quarts of
cold water. Bring to the boil and cool before using.
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X
Fry an onion in butter. Add half a teaspoonful of beef extract, a
pinch of celery seed, a few drops of Worcestershire, a tablespoonful
of tomato catsup, half a cupful of vinegar, and salt and pepper
to season. Add two quarts of cold water, bring to the boil, and
cool before using.
XI
Four quarts of water, one onion, one slice of carrot, two tablespoonfuls
of salt, one tablespoonful of pepper, two cloves, one tablespoonful
of vinegar, the juice of half a lemon, and a bouquet of sweet herbs.
Boil for an hour before putting in the fish.
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ONE HUNDRED SIMPLE FISH SAUCES
ADMIRAL SAUCE
Add two pounded anchovies, four chopped shallots, a teaspoonful
of chopped capers, and a little grated lemon-peel to one cupful
of Drawn-Butter Sauce. Reheat, season with salt and pepper and
lemon-juice. Serve hot.
ALBERT SAUCE
Boil three chopped shallots with a tablespoonful of butter and
one-fourth cupful of vinegar. Add one cupful of freshly grated
horseradish, half a cupful of white stock and one cupful of Veloute
Sauce. Boil until thick, rub through a sieve, reheat, add the yolks
of three eggs beaten with a cupful of cream, two tablespoonfuls
of butter in small bits, and a little minced parsley.
ALLEMANDE SAUCE--I
Put two cupfuls of white stock into a saucepan with half a dozen
mushrooms, chopped fine, a two-inch strip of lemon-peel, salt and
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pepper to season, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Simmer for
an hour and strain. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, rubbed
smooth in a little cold stock or water, take from the fire, and
add the yolks of three eggs beaten with the juice of half a lemon.
Reheat, but do not boil. Take from the fire and add a tablespoonful
of butter.
ALLEMANDE SAUCE--II
Cook together two tablespoonfuls of butter and three of flour.
Add two cupfuls of white stock and cook until thick, stirring
constantly. Beat the yolks of three eggs and add the sauce gradually
to the eggs, beating constantly. Strain, add the juice of half a
lemon and a tablespoonful of butter. Serve hot.
ANCHOVY BUTTER
Soak, bone, dry, and pound eight salted anchovies. Add twice their
bulk of fresh butter, mix thoroughly, press forcibly through a fine
sieve, add a little more butter and the juice of a lemon. Make
into small pats and keep in a cold place.
ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE
Prepare a pint of Brown Sauce according to directions elsewhere
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given and season with melted butter, lemon-juice, and anchovy
essence.
ANCHOVY SAUCE--I
Stir two tablespoonfuls of anchovy essence into one cupful of melted
butter. Season with cayenne and powdered mace.
ANCHOVY SAUCE--II
Pound three anchovies smooth with three tablespoonfuls of butter,
add two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a quarter of a cupful of water.
Bring to the boil and thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed
smooth in a little cold water. Strain through a sieve and serve
hot.
ANCHOVY SAUCE--III
Add a tablespoonful of anchovy paste to a cupful of Drawn-Butter
Sauce and season with lemon-juice and paprika.
AURORA SAUCE
Add one half cupful of mushroom liquor to one cupful of Béchamel
Sauce. Add also three tablespoonfuls of stewed and strained tomatoes,
and one tablespoonful of butter. Reheat, add a few cooked mushrooms
cut into dice, and serve.
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AVIGNONNAISE SAUCE
Chop together four shallots and two beans of garlic. Fry in olive-oil,
add two cupfuls of Béchamel Sauce, bring to the boil, add the yolks
of three eggs, two tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and
a little minced parsley. Heat, but do not boil, and use as soon
as it thickens.
BEARNAISE SAUCE--I
Bring to the boil two tablespoonfuls each of vinegar and water.
Simmer in it for ten minutes a slice of onion. Take out the onion
and add the yolks of three eggs beaten very light. Take from the
fire, add salt and pepper to season, and four tablespoonfuls of
butter beaten to a cream. The butter should be added in small bits.
BEARNAISE SAUCE--II
Beat the yolks of five eggs, add a pinch of salt and one tablespoonful
of butter. Heat in a double-boiler until it begins to thicken,
then take from the fire and add two more tablespoonfuls of butter.
Season with minced fine herbs and parsley and add a teaspoonful
of tarragon vinegar.
BEARNAISE SAUCE--III
Beat the yolks of two eggs very light
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and put into a double-boiler. Add gradually three tablespoonfuls
of olive-oil, then the same quantity of boiling water, then one
tablespoonful of lemon-juice. Season with salt and cayenne and
serve immediately.
QUICK BEARNAISE SAUCE
Beat the yolks of four eggs with four tablespoonfuls of oil and
four of water. Add a cupful of boiling water and cook slowly until
thick and smooth. Take from the fire, and add minced onion, capers,
olives, pickles, and parsley and a little tarragon vinegar.
BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
Cook together two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add two
cupfuls of white stock and cook until thick, stirring constantly.
Season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg.
BOMBAY SAUCE
Season Drawn-Butter Sauce highly with chopped pickle, curry powder,
and tarragon vinegar.
BORDELAISE SAUCE
Fry in butter a tablespoonful of chopped shallots and two minced
beans of garlic. Add
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half a cupful of Claret, a pinch of red pepper, and a pint of Espagnole
Sauce. Boil until thick, take from the fire and add lemon-juice and
minced parsley to season. Add also a quarter of a pound of beef
marrow cut in small pieces and parboiled in salted water. Serve
at once.
WHITE BORDELAISE SAUCE
Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onions in butter, add a wineglassful
of white wine and a cupful of Veloute Sauce. Season to taste, boil
for five minutes, take from the fire, add one tablespoonful each
of minced parsley, lemon-juice, and butter.
BROWN SAUCE--I
Brown two tablespoonfuls of flour in butter. Add two cupfuls of
milk or cream and cook until thick, stirring constantly.
BROWN SAUCE--II
Fry in pork fat two slices of onion, a slice of carrot, a bay-leaf,
and a sprig of parsley. Add a heaping teaspoonful of flour and, when
brown, a cupful of stock. Cook until thick, stirring constantly.
Take from the fire, strain, add the juice of half a lemon, and
salt and pepper to season.
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BROWN BUTTER SAUCE
Melt butter in a frying-pan and cook until brown, taking care not
to burn. Take from the fire and add lemon-juice or vinegar and
salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.
BUTTER SAUCE
Mix chopped hard-boiled eggs with a liberal amount of melted butter.
Season with salt, pepper, and minced parsley.
CAPER SAUCE--I
Add half a cupful of capers to two cupfuls of Drawn-Butter Sauce.
CAPER SAUCE--II
Prepare a pint of Drawn-Butter Sauce and add to it two tablespoonfuls
of capers, a tablespoonful of anchovy essence, and salt and pepper
to season.
CLARET SAUCE
Reheat one cupful of Brown Sauce, season with grated onion, add
half a cupful of Claret, bring to the boil, and serve.
COLBERT SAUCE
Put into a saucepan one cupful of Espagnole
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Sauce, two tablespoonfuls of beef extract, the juice of a lemon,
red and white pepper and minced parsley to season, and half a cupful
of butter in small bits. Heat, but do not boil, and serve at once.
CREAM SAUCE
Cook together one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour. Add two
cupfuls of cream or milk and cook until thick, stirring constantly
Season with salt and pepper.
CUCUMBER SAUCE--I
Chop two cucumbers, drain, and add one tablespoonful of grated
onion and half of a minced bean of garlic. Season with salt, pepper,
and vinegar, and add enough olive-oil to make a smooth paste. Serve
immediately.
CUCUMBER SAUCE--II
Grate four large cucumbers and drain. Season the pulp with salt,
pepper, grated onion, and tarragon vinegar. Add enough whipped
cream to make a smooth mixture and serve at once.
CUCUMBER SAUCE--III
Chop a cucumber finely, season with salt,
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pepper, and vinegar and add it to Hollandaise Sauce.
CURRY SAUCE
Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in butter and add a tablespoonful
of flour mixed with a teaspoonful of curry powder. Mix thoroughly, add
one cupful of cold water, and cook until thick, stirring constantly.
Take from the fire, season with salt and onion juice, and serve
hot.
DRAWN-BUTTER SAUCE
Cook to a smooth paste two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of
flour. Add two cupfuls of cold water and cook until thick, stirring
constantly. Season with salt and pepper.
DUTCH SAUCE
Cook together two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add one
cupful of white stock, and cook until thick, stirring constantly.
Season with salt and pepper, take from the fire and add the yolks of
three eggs beaten with half a cupful of cream. Cook in a double-boiler
for three minutes, take from the fire, add a tablespoonful of
lemon-juice and strain.
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DUXELLES SAUCE--I
Cook in butter one cupful of chopped mushrooms; and one tablespoonful
each of minced onion and parsley. Add to one pint of Spanish Sauce
and serve.
DUXELLES SAUCE--II
Prepare a pint of Veloute Sauce, add a wineglassful of white wine
and two tablespoonfuls of beef extract. Boil for five minutes,
add two tablespoonfuls each of chopped mushrooms and cooked beef
tongue or ham. Add a little minced parsley, reheat, and serve.
EGG SAUCE--I
Add one half cupful of sliced or chopped hard-boiled eggs to two
cupfuls of Drawn-Butter Sauce.
EGG SAUCE--II
Prepare a Cream Sauce according to directions previously given, and
add the yolks of two raw eggs, a tablespoonful of grated onion, a
hard-boiled egg, chopped fine, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley.
ESPAGNOLE SAUCE
Add a small bay-leaf, a blade of mace, and
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two cloves, to two cupfuls of white stock. Simmer for fifteen minutes.
Cook together two tablespoonfuls of butter and three of flour;
add the heated stock and cook until thick, stirring constantly.
Add one tablespoonful each of chopped ham, onion, celery, carrot,
and parsley, with salt and paprika to season. Simmer for an hour,
strain, and serve very hot.
FINE HERB SAUCE--I
Fry in butter one tablespoonful each of minced parsley and onion.
Add to one pint of White Sauce and reheat. Season with salt and
pepper, and serve.
FINE HERB SAUCE--II
Prepare according to directions given for Brown Italian Sauce,
using butter instead of oil and half a cupful of minced parsley
instead of the thyme and bay-leaf. Season with grated nutmeg and
add to either Spanish or Veloute Sauce.
FLEMISH SAUCE
Prepare a cupful of Drawn-Butter Sauce, take from the fire, add
the yolks of two eggs well-beaten, and pepper, grated nutmeg, made
mustard, vinegar, and minced parsley to season.
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Add gradually half a cupful of melted butter and serve.
GARLIC SAUCE
Peel the garlic and boil for an hour, changing the water four times.
Drain, chop, and mix to a smooth paste with melted butter. The
flavour is mild and resembles almond.
SAUCE À LA GASCONNE
Chop together a tablespoonful of capers and a bean of garlic. Fry
in olive-oil, seasoning with pepper and grated nutmeg. Add a
wineglassful of white wine, a cupful of Veloute Sauce, a bay-leaf,
and a sprig of thyme. Boil for fifteen minutes, skim, add another
wineglassful of white wine, strain, and add the yolks of three eggs
well beaten. Season with lemon-juice, butter, anchovy essence,
and minced parsley.
GENEVA SAUCE
Brown one tablespoonful of flour in butter, add two cupfuls of thick
stock and one cupful of red wine, and cook until thick, stirring
constantly. Add two small onions chopped, a bunch of sweet herbs,
two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, and salt and pepper to
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season. Simmer for half an hour, add a wineglassful of Madeira,
strain, and serve.
GOOSEBERRY SAUCE
Boil a pint of green gooseberries for ten minutes in water to cover.
Drain, press through a sieve, and mix with an equal quantity of
White Sauce.
HESSIAN SAUCE
Mix four tablespoonfuls of freshly grated horseradish with an equal
quantity of fresh bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a
little salt and pepper. Mix to a smooth paste with sour cream and
serve with baked fish.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE--I
Beat half a cupful of butter to a cream and add gradually the yolks
of two eggs well beaten. Then add the juice of half a lemon and
pepper and salt to season. Place the bowl over boiling water and
beat with an egg-beater until thick and smooth. Take from the fire
and beat for a few moments. Be careful not to cook it too long.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE--II
Put a bay-leaf and a chopped onion in two tablespoonfuls of tarragon
vinegar, bring to the
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boiling point, strain and cool. Cook together two tablespoonfuls
of butter and one of flour, add a half cupful of cold water, and
cook until thick, stirring constantly. Take from the fire and add
the yolks of two eggs beaten with the vinegar. Reheat for a moment,
seasoning with salt and pepper, strain, and serve immediately.
Lemon-juice may be used in place of the vinegar.
HORSERADISH SAUCE--I
Add half a cupful of freshly grated horseradish to a cupful of
Drawn-Butter Sauce. Season with lemon-juice and beat until smooth.
HORSERADISH SAUCE--II
Prepare a Cream Sauce according to directions previously given,
and add three tablespoonfuls of freshly grated horseradish and
half a cupful of melted butter. Serve with boiled fish.
HORSERADISH SAUCE--III
To one cupful of Spanish Sauce add two tablespoonfuls of prepared
horseradish, two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, a teaspoonful
of powdered sugar, and salt, pepper, and made mustard to season.
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Heat in a double-boiler, and just before serving add one-half cupful
of whipped or cold cream. (Cow cream, not cosmetic.)
ITALIAN SAUCE
Fry in butter two tablespoonfuls of minced parsley and one tablespoonful
of chopped mushrooms and shallots. Add two cupfuls of white wine
and boil until reduced half. Add one cupful of Veloute Sauce and
one half cupful of stock. Boil until thick, skim, and serve.
BROWN ITALIAN SAUCE
Fry in olive-oil half a cupful of chopped mushrooms, four chopped
shallots, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Add half a cupful of
white wine and simmer until the liquid is reduced half. Take out
the thyme and bay-leaf, add a cupful of Spanish Sauce, skim, boil,
and serve.
JAPANESE SAUCE
Chop fine a shallot and two cloves of garlic. Add two tablespoonfuls
each of walnut catsup, soy, and Worcestershire sauce. Season highly
with paprika, add two cupfuls of tarragon vinegar, and let stand
for two weeks. Strain, and serve with fish.
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JERSEY SAUCE
Brown four tablespoonfuls of flour in butter, add two cupfuls of
brown stock and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Season with
salt, pepper, and Worcestershire.
LEMON SAUCE--I
Melt half a cupful of butter and add to it the juice of a large
lemon. When very hot take from the fire and pour over the well-beaten
yolks of two eggs.
LEMON SAUCE--II
Prepare a pint of Drawn-Butter Sauce according to directions previously
given, season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and lemon-juice,
and add half a cupful of melted butter.
LIVOURNAISE SAUCE
Soak, bone, and pound to a pulp eight salted anchovies. Add the yolks
of two eggs, well beaten. Add slowly half a cupful of olive-oil and
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Season with pepper, grated nutmeg,
and minced parsley. Serve very cold.
LOBSTER SAUCE--I
Add half a cupful of chopped cooked lobster
[Page 29]
meat and the pounded coral to each cupful of Drawn-Butter Sauce.
Season with paprika, butter, and lemon-juice.
LOBSTER SAUCE--II
Prepare a Hollandaise Sauce and mix with finely-cut cooked lobster
meat. Season with melted butter, lemon-juice, tabasco, and
Worcestershire.
MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL SAUCE
Work into half a cupful of butter all the lemon-juice it will take
and add a teaspoonful or more of minced parsley. Or, melt the butter
without burning, take from the fire, add the juice of half a lemon
and a teaspoonful of minced parsley.
MAYONNAISE
Put into an earthen bowl the yolk of a fresh egg and a pinch of
salt, a dash of red pepper, and half a teaspoonful of dry mustard.
Place the bowl on ice or in ice-water. Pour one cupful of olive-oil
into a small pitcher from which it will drop easily. When the egg
and seasoning are thoroughly mixed, begin to add the oil, using
a silver teaspoon, and rubbing rather than stirring. Add the oil
until a clear spot is formed upon the egg, and then mix
[Page 30]
until smooth. Only a few drops can be added at first, but the quantity
may be gradually increased. The clear spot on the egg is an infallible
test of the right quantity of oil. If too much oil is added the
dressing will curdle. A few drops of lemon-juice and long beating
will usually make it right again. If this fails, set the bowl directly
on the ice in the refrigerator, and let stand for half an hour.
If it is still curdled, begin again with the yolk of another egg
and add the curdled mayonnaise by degrees to the new dressing.
When the mayonnaise is so thick that it is difficult to stir it,
add the juice of half a lemon, if desired.
MILANAISE SAUCE
Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two chopped mushrooms and
two boned and pounded anchovies. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour
and cook until the flour is brown. Add one cupful of brown stock and
one tablespoonful each of sherry and vinegar drained from capers.
Cook until thick, stirring constantly, seasoning with salt, cayenne,
and made mustard. Simmer for twenty minutes, strain, add one
tablespoonful of capers, boil for five minutes, and serve.
MUSHROOM SAUCE
Prepare a Drawn-Butter Sauce according to
[Page 31]
directions previously given and add to it one cupful of chopped
cooked mushrooms.
NIÇOISE SAUCE
Rub through a fine sieve the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs. Put
into a deep bowl, with two raw yolks, a tablespoonful of made mustard,
and salt and pepper to season. Add gradually half a cupful of olive-oil
and a little vinegar, finishing with two tablespoonfuls of minced
fine herbs.
NONPAREIL SAUCE
Add chopped hard-boiled eggs and chopped cooked mushrooms to Hollandaise
Sauce.
NORMANDY SAUCE
Add one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup to one pint of Veloute
Sauce and cook for ten minutes. Add one fourth cupful of strong
fish stock, bring to the boil, take from the fire and add the yolks
of two eggs beaten with the juice of half a lemon. Strain, add a
tablespoonful of butter, and serve.
OLIVE SAUCE
Prepare according to directions given for Jersey Sauce, adding half
a dozen chopped olives instead of the Worcestershire.
[Page 32]
OYSTER SAUCE--I
Prepare a Cream Sauce according to directions previously given,
using the oyster liquor for part of the liquid. Add parboiled oysters
cut fine, and season with paprika and lemon-juice.
OYSTER SAUCE--II
Cook two dozen oysters in their liquor with a little water, butter,
white and red pepper, and grated nutmeg. Thicken with a tablespoonful
each of butter and flour cooked together, take from the fire, add
the yolks of two eggs well beaten, the juice of a lemon, and two
tablespoonfuls of butter. Serve with boiled fish.
PARSLEY SAUCE--I
Prepare a Drawn-Butter Sauce according to directions previously
given, add half a cupful of fine minced parsley, and season with
lemon-juice.
PARSLEY SAUCE--II
Boil two large bunches of parsley in water to cover for five minutes.
Strain the water, and thicken with a tablespoonful each of butter
and flour cooked together. Season with salt,
[Page 33]
pepper, and grated nutmeg, take from the fire, add the yolks of
two eggs beaten with a little vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of
butter in small bits, and a little minced parsley.
PARSLEY AND LEMON SAUCE
Squeeze the juice out of a lemon, remove the seeds, and chop the
pulp fine with a bunch of parsley. Add a little of the grated peel.
Cook together one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add the
parsley and lemon and one and one half cupfuls of stock. Season
with salt, pepper, and powdered mace, and boil for ten minutes.
Take from the fire, add the yolks of two eggs beaten with a little
cold stock, and serve.
PERSILLADE SAUCE
Put into a bowl one fourth cupful of olive-oil with a tablespoonful
of made mustard, the juice of two lemons, two tablespoonfuls of
minced parsley, and salt and pepper to season. Add a few drops
of tarragon vinegar, mix thoroughly, and serve.
PIQUANT SAUCE--I
Cook together a teaspoonful of chopped onion, a pinch of sugar,
a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, and one tablespoonful each
[Page 34]
of chopped capers and pickles, with two tablespoonfuls of tarragon
vinegar, and salt and cayenne to season. Prepare a Spanish Sauce
and add the mixture to it.
PIQUANT SAUCE--II
Mix together half a cupful of beef stock, two tablespoonfuls of
tarragon vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of chopped pickle, one
tablespoonful each of chopped onion, capers, and parsley, a teaspoonful
each of sugar and salt, and paprika to season.
POOR MAN'S SAUCE
Brown a tablespoonful of flour in butter, add two cupfuls of stock,
and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Add two tablespoonfuls
of tomato catsup and one of anchovy essence. Strain and serve.
PORTUGUESE SAUCE
Put six tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan with the yolks
of two eggs beaten with the juice of half a lemon. Season with
salt and pepper and heat thoroughly but do not boil. Take from the
fire, stir until thick, and serve immediately.
POULETTE SAUCE
Simmer for ten minutes a pint of White
[Page 35]
Sauce, seasoning with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. Beat the yolks
of three eggs light and pour the hot sauce over them slowly. Cook
for two minutes in a double boiler, and serve immediately.
RAVIGOTE SAUCE
Put one cupful of stock into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of
white wine and three tablespoonfuls of chopped chives and parsley.
Season with salt and pepper and simmer for twenty minutes. Thicken
with one tablespoonful each of butter and flour cooked together.
Take from the fire, add the juice of half a lemon, and serve.
COLD RAVIGOTE SAUCE
Chop together a tablespoonful each of parsley, chives, chervil,
tarragon, and shallot. Add to a stiff mayonnaise and tint green,
if desired, with color paste.
REMOULADE SAUCE
Mix two tablespoonfuls each of capers and minced anchovies, add
a tablespoonful of minced parsley, a teaspoonful of dry mustard,
and salt and pepper to taste. Add one half bean of garlic, chopped
very fine, and enough olive-oil to make a smooth paste. Add a few
drops of vinegar and serve.
[Page 36]
ROYALE SAUCE
Cook together half a cupful of butter and the beaten yolks of three
eggs until the yolks begin to thicken. Take from the fire and add by
degrees two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, two tablespoonfuls
of Indian soy, one finely chopped small pickle, and cayenne and
salt to season. Mix thoroughly and cool. Serve cold.
SARDINE SAUCE
Add skinned, boned, and mashed sardines to Mayonnaise. Beat until
smooth and serve with cold fish.
SHAD ROE SAUCE
Boil, drain, skin, and mash a shad roe. Season with salt, pepper,
grated onion, and powdered mace. Add half a cupful of Madeira and
half a cupful or more of melted butter. Serve with shad or any
other fish.
SHRIMP SAUCE
Add one cupful of chopped cooked shrimps to each pint of White Sauce.
Season with lemon-juice, paprika, and tabasco sauce.
SICILIAN SAUCE
Slice four onions, fry brown and drain carefully.
[Page 37]
Put into a saucepan with two cupfuls of Espagnole Sauce, a wineglassful
of sherry, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Reheat, strain, and serve.
SPANISH SAUCE
Prepare according to directions given for Brown Sauce, using one
cupful of highly seasoned stock for liquid.
SUPREME SAUCE
Prepare according to directions given for Drawn-Butter Sauce, using
chicken stock and a little cream for liquid. Take from the fire,
and add two tablespoonfuls of butter and the juice of half a lemon.
TARTAR SAUCE--I
Chop together capers, olives, parsley, and pickles. Add one half
cupful of the mixture to a cupful of Mayonnaise.
TARTAR SAUCE--II
Mix together one tablespoonful each of vinegar and Worcestershire
sauce, add a teaspoonful of lemon-juice and a pinch of salt. Brown
half a cupful of butter and strain into the hot vinegar. Serve
hot.
[Page 38]
TARTAR SAUCE--III
Prepare a cupful of Drawn-Butter Sauce and add to it a teaspoonful
each of made mustard, grated onion, and chopped pickle. Take from
the fire, season with salt and cayenne, add the beaten yolk of
an egg, and serve.
TOMATO SAUCE--I
Prepare according to directions given for Drawn-Butter Sauce, using
tomato-juice or stewed and strained canned tomatoes for liquid.
TOMATO SAUCE--II
Chop together capers, pickles, onion, and olives. There should be
half a cupful in all. Add one half cupful of stewed and strained
tomatoes, a teaspoonful each of made mustard and sugar, and salt
and cayenne to season highly. Serve very hot.
TOMATO SAUCE--III
Chop fine an onion and a clove of garlic. Fry in butter and add
half a can of stewed and strained tomatoes. Thicken with butter
and flour cooked together, season with salt and pepper and serve.
[Page 39]
BROWN TOMATO SAUCE
Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in butter, add one tablespoonful
of flour and one half cupful each of stock and stewed and strained
tomato. Cook until thick, stirring constantly. Season with salt,
pepper, and kitchen bouquet. Strain and serve.
VELOUTE SAUCE
Cook together three tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add
one cupful of white stock and one quarter cupful of cream. Cook
until thick, stirring constantly. Season with salt, cayenne, grated
nutmeg, and minced parsley. Simmer for an hour, strain, and serve.
VENETIENNE SAUCE--I
Cook together for five minutes two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,
six pepper-corns, a tablespoonful of chopped ham, six parsley roots,
a sprig of thyme and a bay-leaf. Strain, and add to one cupful of
Veloute Sauce. Reheat, add a teaspoonful of minced parsley and
serve.
VENETIENNE SAUCE--II
Add minced parsley, tarragon vinegar,
[Page 40]
grated nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of butter to Allemande Sauce.
VINAIGRETTE SAUCE
Mix four tablespoonfuls of olive-oil with one tablespoonful of
vinegar. Season with salt and paprika and add to it minced parsley,
pickle, and capers.
WHIPPED CREAM SAUCE
Mix a teaspoonful of dry mustard with a tablespoonful of vinegar
and two tablespoonfuls of freshly grated horseradish. Mix with
one fourth cupful of Mayonnaise, and when smooth fold in carefully
one cupful of whipped cream. Season with salt and red pepper and
serve very cold with cold fish.
WHITE SAUCE
Cook together two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add
one cupful of white stock and one half cupful of cream. Cook until
thick, stirring constantly. Season with salt and pepper. One and
one half cupfuls of milk may be used instead of the stock and cream.
[Page 41]
TEN WAYS TO SERVE ANCHOVIES
I
Clean, bone, and trim the fish. Arrange on a dish, alternating
with quarters of hard-boiled eggs. Moisten with olive-oil, sprinkle
with parsley, and serve with toasted crackers.
II
Split the anchovies, wash in white wine, and bone them. Make a
paste with the yolks of eggs, equal parts of minced cooked fish,
and bread-crumbs. Stuff the anchovies, dip into batter, and fry
in deep fat.
III
Pound the fish in a mortar, seasoning with minced parsley, grated
onion, and cayenne. Serve on small circles of fried bread, as a
first course at dinner.
IV
Drain a bottle of anchovies and mash fine with enough butter to
make a smooth paste. Season with lemon-juice and cayenne. Spread
[Page 42]
on fingers of toast and lay a whole anchovy on each piece.
V
Wash eight salted anchovies, remove the skin and bones, and soak
in clear water for an hour. Drain and wipe dry. Arrange on lettuce
leaves with sliced hard-boiled eggs and pour over a French dressing.
VI
Toast circles of bread, spread with butter, cover with chopped
hard-boiled eggs, make a hollow in the egg, lay an anchovy upon
it, and set into a hot oven for five minutes.
VII
Toast thin circles of graham bread, butter, and cover each piece
with anchovies. Sprinkle with lemon-juice and paprika and put into
hot oven for five minutes.
VIII
Clean and rinse the fish and dry on a cloth. Butter a small baking-dish,
put in a layer of cracker crumbs, then a layer of anchovies, then
sugar and crumbs. Repeat until the dish is full, having crumbs
and butter on top. Beat the yolks of two eggs with half a cupful
[Page 43]
of cream and a little sugar. Pour over the fish and bake in the
oven.
IX
Use salted Norwegian anchovies soaked for two hours in cold water.
Split down the back, bone and skin, cut into strips, and arrange
on a platter. Mince separately parsley, capers, boiled carrots,
beets, and the whites and yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Arrange small
piles of contrasting colors among the fish and pour over a French
dressing.
X
Fry thin circles of bread, put a pimola in the centre, and curl an
anchovy around it. Fill the remaining space with chopped hard-boiled
eggs and serve as a first course at dinner or luncheon.
[Page 45]
FORTY-FIVE WAYS TO COOK BASS
BAKED BASS--I
Scale, wash, and clean, leaving the head intact. Make a stuffing
of two cupfuls of bread-crumbs, one cupful of butter, two eggs well
beaten, and enough cold water to make a smooth paste. Season with
pepper, salt, grated lemon, minced parsley, thyme, and marjoram. Split
the fish, stuff, and sew up. Lay thin slices of salt pork over the
fish and put into a baking-pan with a little boiling water seasoned
with wine and tomato juice. Bake carefully, basting frequently.
The gravy may be thickened and served with the fish.
BAKED BASS--II
Split the fish and stuff with seasoned mashed potatoes. Put a little
boiling water and a tablespoonful of butter into the baking-pan,
and baste frequently while cooking.
BAKED BASS--III
Rub the inside of the fish with salt, sprinkle
[Page 46]
the outside with pepper and salt, cover with sliced onion and salt
pork. Dredge with flour and put into the baking-pan with sufficient
boiling water to keep from burning. Baste frequently while cooking,
remove the pork and onion, thicken the sauce with a tablespoonful
each of butter and flour blended and mixed with a little tomato
catsup. Pour the hot sauce over the fish and serve.
BAKED BASS--IV
Make a stuffing of one cupful of bread-crumbs, one teaspoonful
each of melted butter, Worcestershire sauce, tomato catsup, minced
parsley, minced onion, minced olives or pickles, lemon-juice, salt,
black pepper, and paprika to taste, and sufficient cold water to
moisten. Sew up the fish and bake as usual. Serve with Tartar Sauce.
BAKED BASS WITH WHITE WINE
Put a bass into a baking-dish with salt, pepper and mushroom liquor
to season, and enough white wine to moisten. Cover with buttered
paper and bake for fifteen minutes. Melt two tablespoonfuls of
butter, add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook thoroughly.
Add two cupfuls of white stock and cook until thick, stirring
constantly. Take from the fire
[Page 47]
and add the yolks of three eggs beaten with a little cold water,
and the juice of half a lemon. Add a tablespoonful of butter and
the juice in the baking-pan. Pour over the bass and serve.
BAKED BASS WITH SHRIMP SAUCE
Marinate the cleaned fish for an hour in oil and vinegar. Put into
a baking-pan with slices of salt pork underneath and on top and
sufficient boiling water to keep from burning. Add a teaspoonful
of butter to the water and baste two or three times during the hour
of baking. Strain the gravy and set aside. Melt one tablespoonful
of butter, add one tablespoonful of flour and cook until brown.
Add one cupful of the liquid left in the baking-pan, making up
the required quantity with boiling water if necessary. Cook until
thick, stirring constantly; season with cayenne and lemon-juice,
and add half a can of shrimps chopped fine. Bring to the boil,
pour over the fish, and serve.
BAKED AND STUFFED BLACK BASS
Mix together one cupful of bread-crumbs, two small onions chopped,
two eggs well beaten, and cold water to moisten. Season with
Worcestershire, tabasco and minced parsley. Stuff a bass with this
[Page 48]
mixture, rub with melted butter, and bake with a little boiling
water, basting as required.
BAKED BASS À LA NEWPORT
Clean the fish, gash the top, season with salt and pepper, and
cover with thin slices of salt pork. Pour a little boiling water
into the pan and bake slowly, basting as required. Serve with the
pork. Bacon may be used instead.
BAKED BASS À LA MANHATTAN
Butter a baking-dish, put in the cleansed fish, rub with melted
butter, season with salt and pepper, and cover with thin slices
of bacon and bread crumbs. Add a little boiling water and bake
in a very hot oven, basting as required.
BAKED BASS AND TOMATOES
Select one large black bass or two small ones; clean the head and
let it remain on the fish. Slice four tomatoes and cut in halves.
Make a plain bread dressing; open the fish, rub the inside lightly
with salt and soft butter; lay a thick layer of tomatoes in, then
a layer of the bread dressing, alternating them until the fish is
well stuffed; then bind with a tape. Lard the fish with strips
of salt pork. Lay in a baking-pan, add one cupful of hot water
[Page 49]
and one tablespoonful of butter, and bake, basting often. In fifteen
minutes take the pan out of the oven and spread the fish with a layer
of thinly sliced tomatoes, seasoned with a sprinkling of salt, some
melted butter, and a light sprinkling of grated cheese. Bake until
the tomatoes are done, then carefully remove to a platter, taking
off the tape first. Garnish with parsley and serve.
BAKED BLACK BASS À LA BABETTE
Clean the fish, salt it well, and put into a baking-pan with a
cupful of water. Put lumps of butter on top, and season with salt,
pepper, and minced parsley. Bake for an hour, basting often. Add a
wineglassful of Sherry and a little catsup to the sauce remaining
in the pan. Thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, rubbed smooth
with a little cold water.
BAKED FILLETS OF BASS
Cut bass into small fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put
into a shallow pan, cover with buttered paper and bake for twelve
minutes in a hot oven. Serve with a border of boiled rice and
Hollandaise Sauce.
BLACK BASS À LA MONTMORENCY
Clean, skin, and bone a bass, and cut into
[Page 50]
pieces. Butter a baking-dish, put in the fish, season with salt,
pepper, and white wine; cover with buttered paper and set in the
oven until the fish is partly cooked. Take out the fish and arrange
in a baking-pan. Add to the remaining liquor a chopped onion, half
a dozen mushrooms, and two sprigs of parsley finely chopped. Add a
little stock and thicken with a teaspoonful of flour rubbed smooth
in a little cold water. Pour this sauce over the fish, lay a large
mushroom on each piece, cover with crumbs, dot with butter, and
bake in the oven. Sprinkle with lemon-juice before serving.
STUFFED SEA-BASS
Clean the fish and cover it with a marinade of olive-oil and vinegar.
Soak for an hour. Fill the fish with chopped salt pork and mushrooms,
put into a baking-pan with slices of salt pork underneath and on
top, and sufficient boiling water. Bake for forty minutes, cover
with slices of tomatoes and half of a sweet green pepper chopped
fine. Dot with butter and bake for twenty minutes more. Take up the
fish and rub the sauce through a colander. Stir in a tablespoonful
of butter rolled in flour, add one teaspoonful of sugar and two
teaspoonfuls of grated onion. Dilute with boiling
[Page 51]
water if too thick, bring to the boil, pour over the fish, and serve.
BASS À LA BORDELAISE
Split a large sea-bass. Put into a baking-dish with a wineglassful
of Claret and salt and pepper to season. Sprinkle with chopped
shallot, cover with buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven
for fifteen minutes. Lay the bass on a platter, put the juice in
a saucepan with half a teaspoonful of beef extract, four chopped
mushrooms, and a bruised bean of garlic. Thicken with flour browned
in butter, bring to the boil, pour over the fish, and serve very
hot.
BOILED BASS
Clean the fish, put it into warm salted water and simmer for twenty
minutes.
BOILED SEA-BASS WITH EGG SAUCE
Boil the fish according to directions previously given. Melt one
tablespoonful of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook
thoroughly. Add two cupfuls of the water in which the fish was
boiled, and cook until thick, stirring constantly. Season with salt,
pepper, minced parsley, and lemon-juice; add three hard-boiled eggs
[Page 52]
coarsely chopped, pour over the fish, and serve.
BOILED BASS WITH MUSHROOMS
Boil a bass in water to cover, adding to the water four tablespoonfuls
of vinegar, six pepper-corns, and a little salt. Melt one tablespoonful
of butter, add one tablespoonful of flour and cook thoroughly. Add
one cupful or more of boiling water and cook until thick, stirring
constantly. Add the juice of half a lemon, half a can of mushrooms
chopped fine, and pepper and salt and minced parsley to season.
Bring to the boil, pour over the fish, and serve.
BOILED BLACK BASS WITH CREAM SAUCE