THE GREAT PARK OF THE EASTERN TOMBS
The sunshine of an early spring day was flooding the flower-filled
courtyards of Duke Tsai Tse's palace in Peking when Dr. G. D. Wilder,
Everett Smith, and I alighted from our car at the huge brass-hound
gate. We came by motor instead of rickshaw, for we were on an official
visit which had been arranged by the American Minister. We would have
suffered much loss of "face" had we come in any lesser vehicle than
an automobile, for we were to be received by a "Royal Highness," an
Imperial Duke and a man in whose veins flowed the bluest of Manchu
blood. Although living in retirement, Duke Tsai Tse is still a powerful
and a respected man.
We were ushered through court after court into a large reception hall
furnished in semi-foreign style but in excellent taste. A few moments
later the duke entered, dressed in a simple gown of dark blue silk.
Had I met him casually on the street I should have known he was a
"personality." His high-bred features were those of a maker of history,
of a man who has faced the ruin of his own ambitions; who has seen his
emperor deposed and his dynasty shattered; but who has lost not one
whit of his poise or self-esteem. He carried himself with a quiet
dignity, and there was a royal courtesy in his greeting which inspired
profound respect. Had he been marked for death in the revolution I am
sure that he would have received his executioners in the same calm way
that he met us in the reception hall. He listened with a courteous
interest while we explained the object of our visit. We had come, we
told him, to ask permission to collect natural history specimens in
the great hunting park at the _Tung Ling_, Eastern Tombs. Here, and at
the _Hsi Ling_, or Western Tombs, the Manchu emperors and their royal
consorts sleep in splendid mausoleums among the fragrant pines.
The emperors are buried at the lower end of a vast, walled park, more
than one hundred miles in length. True to their reverence for the dead,
the Chinese conquerors have never touched these sacred spots, and
doubtless will never do so. They belong unquestionably to the Manchus,
even if their dynasty has been overthrown by force of arms. According
to custom, some member of the royal court is always in residence at
the Eastern Tombs. This fact Tsai Tse gravely explained, and said that
he would commend us in a letter to Duke Chou, who would be glad to
grant us the privileges we asked. Then, by touching his teacup to his
lips, he indicated that our interview was ended. With the same courtesy
he would have shown to a visiting diplomat he ushered us through the
courtyards, while at each doorway we begged him to return. Such is the
custom in China. That same afternoon a messenger from the duke arrived
at my house in Wu Liang Tajen Hutung bearing a letter beautifully
written in Chinese characters.
Everett Smith and I left next morning for the Eastern Tombs. We went
by train to Tung-cho, twelve miles away, where a _mafu_ was waiting
with our ponies and a cart for baggage. The way to the _Tung Ling_ is
a delight, for along it north China country life passes before one in
panoramic completeness. For centuries this road has been an imperial
highway. I could imagine the gorgeous processions that had passed over
it and the pomp and ceremony of the visits of the living emperors to
the resting places of the dead.
Most vivid of all was the picture in my mind of the last great funeral
only nine years ago. I could see the imperial yellow bier slowly,
solemnly, borne over the gray Peking hills. In it lay the dead body
of the Dowager Empress, Tz'u-hsi--most dreaded yet most beloved--the
greatest empress of the last century, the woman who tasted of life and
power through the sweetest joys to their bitter core.
We spent the first night at an inn on the outskirts of a tiny village.
It was a clean inn, too--very different from those in south China. The
great courtyard was crowded with arriving carts. In the kitchen dozens
of tired _mafus_ were noisily gulping huge bowls of macaroni, and
others, stretched upon the _kang_, had already become mere, shapeless
bundles of dirty rags. After dinner Smith and I wandered outside the
court. An open-air theater was in full operation a few yards from the
inn, and all the village had gathered in the street. But we were of
more interest to the audience than the drama itself, and in an instant
a score of men and women had surrounded us. They were all good-natured
but frankly curious. Finally an old man joined the crowd. "Why," said
he, "there are two foreigners!" Immediately the hum of voices ceased,
for Age was speaking. "They've got foreign clothes," he exclaimed; "and
what funny hats! It is true that foreign hats are much bigger than
Chinese caps, and they cost a lot more, too! See that gun the tall
one is carrying! He could shoot those pigeons over there as easily as
not--all of them with one shot--probably he will in a minute."
The old man continued the lecture until we strolled back to the inn.
Undoubtedly he is still discussing us, for there is little to talk
about in a Chinese village, except crops and weather and local gossip.
We reached the Eastern Tombs in the late afternoon of the same day.
Emerging from a rocky gateway on the summit of a hill, we had the whole
panorama of the _Tung Ling_ spread out before us. It was like a vast
green sea where wave after wave of splendid forests rolled away to the
blue haze of distant mountains.
The islands in this forest-ocean were the yellow-roofed tombs, which
gave back the sun in a thousand points of golden light. After the
monotonous brown of the bare north China hills, the vivid green of the
trees was as refreshing as finding an unknown oasis in a sandy desert.
To the right was the picturesque village of Ma-lin-yü, the residence of
Duke Chou.
From the wide veranda of the charming temple which we were invited
to occupy we could look across the brown village to the splendid park
and the glistening yellow roofs of the imperial tombs. We found next
day that it is a veritable paradise, a spot of exquisite beauty where
profound artistic sentiment has been magnificently expressed. Broad,
paved avenues, bordered by colossal animals sculptured in snow-white
marble, lead through the trees to imposing gates of red and gold.
There is, too, a delightful appreciation of climax. As one walks up a
spacious avenue, passing through gate after gate, each more magnificent
than the last, one is being prepared by this cumulative splendor for
the tomb itself. One feels everywhere the dignity of space. There is no
smallness, no crowding. One feels the greatness of the people that has
done these things: a race that looks at life and death with a vision as
broad as the skies themselves.
At the _Tung Ling_ Nature has worked hand in hand with man to produce a
harmonious whole. Most of the trees about the tombs have been planted,
but the work has been cleverly done. There is nothing glaringly
artificial, and you feel as though you were in a well-groomed forest
where every tree has grown just where, in Nature's scheme of things, it
ought to be.
Although the tombs are alike in general plan, they are, at the same
time, as individual as were the emperors themselves. Each is a subtle
expression of the character of the one who sleeps beneath the yellow
roof. The tomb of Ch'ien-Lung, the artist emperor, lies not far
away from that of the Empress Dowager. Stately, beautiful in its
simplicity, it is an indication of his life and deeds. In striking
contrast is the palace built by the Empress for her eternal dwelling.
A woman of iron will, holding her place by force and intrigue, a lover
of lavish display--she has expressed it all in her gorgeous tomb. The
extravagance of its decoration and the wealth of gold and silver seem
to declare to all the world her desire to be known even in death as
the greatest of the great. It is said that her tomb cost ten million
dollars, and I can well believe it. But a hundred years from now, when
Ch'ien-Lung's mausoleum, like the painting of an old master, has grown
even more beautiful by the touch of age, that of the Empress will be
worn and tarnished.
Charmed with the calm, the peace, the exquisite beauty of the spot,
we spent a delightful day wandering among the red and gold pavilions.
But fascinating as were the tombs, we were really concerned with the
"hinterland," the hunting park itself. Sixty miles to the north, but
still within the walls, are towering mountains and glorious forests;
these were what we had come to see.
All day, behind three tiny donkeys, we followed a tortuous, foaming
stream in the bottom of a splendid valley, ever going upward. At night
we slept in the open, and next day crossed the mountain into a forest
of oak and pine sprinkled with silver birches. Hundreds of wood-cutters
passed us on the trail, each carrying a single log upon his back.
Before we reached the village of Shing Lung-shan we came into an area
of desolation. Thousands of splendid trees were lying in a chaos of
charred and blackened trunks. It was the wantonness of it all that
depressed and horrified me.
The reason was perfectly apparent. On every bit of open ground Manchu
farmers were at work with plow and hoe. The land was being cleared
for cultivation, regardless of all else. North China has very little
timber--so little, in fact, that one longs passionately to get away
from the bare hills. Yet in this forest-paradise the trees were being
sacrificed relentlessly simply to obtain a few more acres on which the
farmer could grow his crops. If it had to be done--and Heaven knows it
need not have been--the trees might have been utilized for timber. Many
have been cut, of course, but thousands upon thousands have been burned
simply to clear the hillside.
At Shing Lung-shan we met our hunters and continued up the valley for
three hours. With every mile there were fewer open spaces; we had come
to a region of vast mountains, gloomy valleys, and heavy forests. The
scenery was superb! It thrilled me as did the mountains of Yün-nan
and the gorges of the Yangtze. Yet all this grandeur is less than one
hundred miles from Peking!
On a little ridge between two foaming streams we made our camp in the
forest. From the door of the tent we could look over the tops of the
trees into the blue distance of the valley; behind us was a wall of
forests broken only by the winding corridor of the mountain torrent.
We had come to the _Tung Ling_ especially to obtain specimens of the
sika deer (_Cervus hortulorum_) and the Reeves's pheasant (_Syrmaticus
reevesi_). The former, a noble animal about the size of our Virginia
deer in America, has become exceedingly rare in north China. The
latter, one of the most beautiful of living birds, is found now in only
two localities--near Ichang on the Yangtze River, and at the _Tung
Ling_. When the forests of the Eastern Tombs have been cleared this
species will be extinct in all north China.
Early in the morning we left with six hunters. Our way led up the
bottom of the valley toward a mountain ridge north of camp. As we
walked along the trail, suddenly one of the hunters caught me by the
arm and whispered, "_Sang-chi_" (wild chicken). There was a whir
of wings, a flash of gold--and I registered a clean miss! The bird
alighted on the mountain side, and in the bliss of ignorance Smith and
I dashed after it. Ten minutes later we were exhausted from the climb
and the pheasant had disappeared. We learned soon that it is useless to
chase a Reeves's pheasant when it has once been flushed, for it will
invariably make for a mountain side, run rapidly to the top, and, once
over the summit, fly to another ridge.
On the way home I got my first pheasant, and an hour later put up half
a dozen. I should have had two more, but instead of shooting I only
stared, fascinated by the beauty of the thing I saw. It was late in the
afternoon and the sun was drawing oblique paths of shimmering golden
light among the trees. In a clearing near the summit of a wooded
shoulder I saw six pheasants feeding and I realized that, by skirting
the base of the ridge, I could slip up from behind and force them to
fly across the open valley. The stalk progressed according to schedule.
When I crossed the ridge there was a whir of wings and six birds shot
into the air not thirty feet away. The sun, glancing on their yellow
backs and streaming plumes, transformed them into golden balls, each
one with a comet-trail of living fire.
The picture was so indescribably beautiful that I watched them sail
across the valley with the gun idle in my hands. Not for worlds would I
have turned one of those glorious birds into a crumpled mass of flesh
and feathers. For centuries the barred tail plumes, which sometimes are
six feet long, have been worn by Chinese actors, and the bird is famous
in their literature. It will be a real tragedy when this species has
passed out of the fauna of north China, as it will do inevitably if the
wanton destruction of the _Tung Ling_ forests is continued unchecked.
The next afternoon four sika deer gave me a hard chase up and down
three mountain ridges. Finally, we located the animals in a deep
valley, and I had an opportunity to examine them through my glasses.
Much to my disgust I saw that the velvet was not yet off the antlers
and that their winter coats were only partly shed. They were valueless
as specimens and forthwith I abandoned the hunt. Before leaving Peking
I had visited the zoölogical garden to make sure that the captive sika
had assumed their summer dress and antlers. But at the _Tung Ling_,
spring had not yet arrived, and the animals were late in losing their
winter hair.
In summer the sika is the most beautiful of all deer. Its bright red
body, spotted with white, is, when seen among the green leaves of the
forest, one of the loveliest things in nature. We wished to obtain a
group of these splendid animals for the new Hall of Asiatic Life in
the American Museum of Natural History, but the specimens had to be in
perfect summer dress.
My hunter was disgusted beyond expression when I refused to shoot
the deer. The antlers of the sika when in the velvet are of greater
value to the natives than those of any other species. A good pair of
horns in full velvet sometimes sells for as much as $450. The growing
antlers are called _shueh-chiao_ (blood horns) by the Chinese, who
consider them of the highest efficacy as a remedy for certain diseases.
Therefore, the animals are persecuted relentlessly and very few remain
even in the _Tung Ling_.
The antlers of the wapiti are also of great value to the native
druggists, but strangely enough they care little for those of the moose
and the roebuck. Hundreds of thousand of deerhorns are sent from the
interior provinces of China to be sold in the large cities, and the
complete extermination of certain species is only a matter of a few
decades. Moreover, the female elk, just before the calving season,
receive unmerciful persecution, for it is believed that the unborn
fawns have great medicinal properties.
Since the roebuck at the _Tung Ling_ were in the same condition as the
sika, they were useless for our purposes. The goral, however, which
live high up on the rocky peaks, had not begun to shed their hair,
and they gave us good shooting. One beautiful morning Smith killed a
splendid ram just above our camp. We had often looked at a ragged,
granite outcrop, sparsely covered with spruce and pine trees, which
towered a thousand feet above us. We were sure there must be goral
somewhere on the ridge, and the hunters told us that they had sometimes
killed them there. It was a stiff climb, and we were glad to rest when
we reached the summit. The old hunter placed Smith opposite an almost
perpendicular face of rock and stationed me beyond him on the other
side. Three beaters had climbed the mountain a mile below us and were
driving up the ridge.
For half an hour I lay stretched out in the sun luxuriating in the
warmth and breathing in the fragrant odor of the pines. While I was
lazily watching a Chinese green woodpecker searching for grubs in a
tree near by, there came the faintest sound of a loosened pebble on the
cliff above my head. Instantly I was alert and tense. A second later
Smith's rifle banged once. Then all was still.
In a few moments he shouted to me that he had fired at a big goral, but
that it had disappeared behind the ridge and he was afraid' it had not
been hit. The old hunter, however, had seen the animal scramble into a
tiny grove of pine trees. As it had not emerged, I was sure the goral
was wounded, and when the men climbed up the cliff they found it dead,
bored neatly through the center of the chest.
Gorals, sika, and roebuck are by no means the only big game animals in
the _Tung Ling_. Bears and leopards are not uncommon, and occasionally
a tiger is killed by the natives. Among other species is a huge flying
squirrel, nearly three feet long, badgers, and chipmunks, a beautiful
squirrel with tufted ears which is almost black in summer and now is
very rare, and dozens of small animals. But perhaps most interesting of
all the creatures of these noble forests are the only wild monkeys to
be found in northeastern China.
The birds are remarkable in variety and numbers. Besides the Reeves's
pheasant, of which I have spoken, there are two other species of this
most beautiful family. One, the common ring-necked pheasant, is very
abundant; the other is the rare Pucrasia, a gray bird with a dark-red
breast, and a yellow striped head surmounted by a conspicuous crest. It
is purely a mountain form requiring a mixed forest of pine and oak and,
although more widely distributed than the Reeves's pheasant, it occurs
in comparatively few localities of north China.
One morning as Smith and I were coming back from hunting we saw our
three boys perched upon a ledge above the stream peering into the
water. They called to us, "Would you like some fish?" "Of course," we
answered, "but how can you get them?"
In a second they had slipped from the rock and were stripping off their
clothes. Then one went to the shallows at the lower end of the pool
and began to beat the surface with a leafy branch, while the other
two crouched on the bowlders in midstream. Suddenly, one of the boys
plunged his head and arms into the water and emerged with a beautiful
speckled trout clutched tightly in both hands. He had seen the fish
swim beneath the rock where it was cornered and had caught it before it
could escape.
For an hour the two boys sat like kingfishers, absolutely motionless
except when they dived into the water. Of course, they often missed;
but when we were ready to go home they had eight beautiful trout,
several of them weighing as much as two pounds. The stream was full of
fish, and we would have given worlds for a rod and flies.
Lü baked a loaf of com bread in his curious little oven made from a
Standard Oil tin, and we found a jar of honey in our stores. Brook
trout fried in deep bacon fat, regular "southern style" corn bread and
honey, apple pie, coffee, and cigarettes--the "hardships of camping in
the Orient!"
When we had been in camp a week we awoke one morning to find a heavy
cloud of smoke drifting up the valley. Evidently a tremendous fire was
raging, and Smith and I set out at once on a tour of investigation.
A mile down the valley we saw the whole mountain side ablaze. It was
a beautiful sight, I admit, but the destruction of that magnificent
forest appalled us. Fortunately, the wind was blowing strongly from
the east, and there was no danger that the fire might sweep northward
in the direction of our camp. As we emerged into a tiny clearing,
occupied by a single log hut, we saw two Chinese sitting on their
heels, placidly watching the roaring furnace across the valley.
With a good deal of excitement we asked them how the fire possibly
could have originated.
"Oh," said one, "we started it ourselves." "In the name of the five
gods why did you do it?" Smith asked. "Well, you see," returned the
Chinese, "there was quite a lot of brush here in our clearing and we
had to get rid of it. To-day the wind was right, so we set it on fire."
"But don't you see that you have burned up that whole mountain's side,
destroyed thousands of trees, and absolutely ruined this end of the
valley?"
"Oh, yes, but never mind; it can't be helped," the native answered.
Then I exploded. I frankly confess that I cursed that Chinese and
all his ancestors; which is the only proper way to curse in China.
I assured him that he was an "old rabbit" and that his father and
his grandfather and his great-grandfather were rabbits. To tell a
man that he is even remotely connected with a rabbit is decidedly
uncomplimentary in China.
But when it was all said I had accomplished nothing. The man looked
at me in blank amazement as though I had suddenly lost my mind. He
had not the faintest idea that burning up that beautiful forest was
reprehensible in the slightest degree. To him and all his kind, the
only thing worth while was to clear that bit of land in the valley.
If every tree on the mountain was destroyed in the process, what
difference did it make? It would be done eventually, anyway. Land,
whether it be on a hill or in a valley, was made to grow crops and to
be cultivated by Chinese farmers.
The wanton destruction which is being wrought at the _Tung Ling_ makes
me sick at heart. Here is one of the most beautiful spots in all China,
within less than one hundred miles of Peking, which is being ruined
utterly as fast as ax and fire can do the work. One can travel the
length and breadth of the whole Republic and not find elsewhere so
much glorious scenery in so small a space. Moreover, it is the last
sanctuary of much of north China's wild life. When the forests of the
_Tung Ling_ are gone, half a dozen species of birds and mammals will
become extinct. How much of the original flora of north China exists
to-day only in these forests I would not dare say, for I am not a
botanist, but it can be hardly less than the fauna of which I know.
If China could but realize before it is too late how priceless a
treasure is being hewed and burned to nothingness and take the first
step in conservation by making a National Park of the Eastern Tombs!
Politically there are difficulties, it is true. The _Tung Ling_, and
all the surroundings, as I have said, belong unquestionably to the
Manchus, and they can do as they wish with their own. But it is largely
a question of money, and were the Republic to pay the price for the
forests and mountains beyond the Tombs it would not be difficult to
do the rest. No country on earth ever had a more splendid opportunity
to create for the generations of the present and the future a living
memorial to its glorious past.
THE END
INDEX
Aëroplanes, 182
Altai Mountains, 182
American Museum of Natural History, Asiatic Explorations of, vii;
trustees of, viii, ix.
Anderson, Dr. J. G., Mining Adviser to Chinese Republic, ix, 39
Anderson, Meyer and Co., assistance rendered to expedition by, ix, 82,
138, 173
Andrews, Yvette B., extract from "Journal" of, 46, 47
_Anser fabalis_, 95
Antelope, description of hunt for, 15, 107; speed of, 23, 44, 97,
106, 118
_Anthropoides virgo_, 11, 42, 55, 88, 91, 93
_Argali_, 174, 186, 197, 201, 210, 212
_Argul_, desert fuel, 11, 24, 34
Asia, viii
_Asia Magazine_, ix
Asian plateau, viii
Asiatic mammals, viii
Asiatic zoölogical explorations, vii
Asses, wild (_Equus hemionus_), 88
Atunzi, 169
Avocets, 42
Baikal Lake, 25
Barker, Major Austin, 213, 215, 217
Beach, Rex, quoted, 186
Bear, 67
Bennett, C. B., ix
Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Charles L., viii
Bighorn sheep (_Argali_), 87, 174, 186
Boar, 67, 171
_Bogdo-ol_ (God's Mountain), 62, 67, 88, 99, 142, 151
Bolsheviki, 25, 82
Bolshevism, xii
Buriats, xiii
Burma, vii, 2
Bustard, 23, 61, 95
Caldwell, Rev. Harry R., 186, 191, 195, 203, 212, 216, 225, 232, 242
Canadian Pacific Ocean Service, transportation to America, of
collections by, x
_Capreolus bedfordi_, 232
Caravans, camel, 13, 27, 62, 66, 91
_Casarca casarca_, 94
Castle, Rev. H., x
Cathay, 1, 64
_Cervus hortulorum_, 263
Cheetah, 130
Che-kiang, Province of, x, 38
Chen, Chinese taxidermist, 39, 164
Chinese, xi, 8, 63, 75, 79
Chinese Turkestan, 182
Chou, Duke, 257
_Citellus mongolicus umbratus_, 42
Coltman, Charles L., Mr. and Mrs., ix, 2, 14, 25, 31, 47, 60, 150, 185
Cranes, 61;
demoiselle, 11, 42, 55, 88, 91, 93
_Cricetulus_, 131
Cunningham, Hon. E. S., American Consul General, x
_Cygnopsis cygnoides_, 94
Czechs, 26, 32
Dane, Sir Richard, 185
Da Wat Mountain, camped at foot of, 144
Delco Electric lighting plant, 39, 60
De Tarascon, Tartarin, 47
Dogs, 9, 76
Dorchy, Tserin, 144, 146, 149, 151, 153, 155, 161, 163, 165, 170, 172
Ducks, mallard, 11, 42, 95;
ducks, shoveler, 42, 95
Eagles, 11
Elk, 67, 238
_Equus hemionus_, 88
_Equus prjevalski_, 87
_Eulabeia indica_, 95
Fauna, Mongolian, vii
Faxon, H. C, ix
Feng-chen, 187, 181
Fuel, 11
_Gazella gutturosa_, 127;
_Gazella prjevalski_, 127;
_Gazella subgutturosa_, 127
Gazelles, 47, 48, 127
Genghis Khan, xi, 3, 71, 84
Gillis, I. V., ix
Gobi Desert, 1, 15, 27, 43, 62, 77, 128, 175, 181
God's Mountain (_Bogdo-ol_), 62, 67, 151
Goose, bar-headed, 95;
bean, 95
Gophers (_Citellus mongolicus umbratus_), 42, 99
Goral, 194, 231, 234, 266
Great Wall of China, 2, 4, 8
Grouse, sand, 23
Guptil, A. M., ix, 25, 26, 28, 29, 31, 33, 37, 173
Hami, 182
Hamster, desert (_Cricetulus_), 131
Hares, 61
_Harper's Magazine_, ix
Hei-ma-hou, 3, 4, 5, 7, 11, 33, 39
Holcomb, Captain Thomas, 220
Honan, 38
Horses, wild (_Equus prjevalski_), 87
Ho-shun, 243
_Hsi Ling_, 257
Hsu Shu-tseng, General, xiii, 141
Hupeh, 38
Hutchins, C. T., Naval Attaché, American Legation, ix, 213
Hutukhtu, the Living Buddha, xii, xiii, 3, 60, 67, 68, 71
Ibex, 87
Irkutsk, 25, 29, 32
Jackson, G. M., General Passenger Agent, Canadian Pacific Ocean Service,
appreciation for assistance in transportation of collections by, x
Jardine, Matheson and Co,, of Shanghai, 44
Kalgan, 2, 3, 4, 5, 8, 13, 15, 28, 29, 33, 35, 36, 39, 44, 99, 127, 142,
176, 182, 183
Kang, Chinese taxidermist, 39
Kang Hsi, Emperor, xiii
Kao-chia-chuang, 243, 246
Kendrick, J., ix
Khans, 63
Kiakhta, xiv, 179, 183
Kobdo, 182
Korostovetz, M., xii
Kublai Khan, xi, 1, 7, 71, 160
Kwei-hua-cheng, 183, 193, 203
Lake Baikal, 25
Lama church, 71
Lama City, 76, 79
Lamaism, xi, 71
Lamas, 14, 24, 62;
monastery of, 14
Lapwing (_Vanellus vanellus_), 94
Lapwings, 11
Larsen, F, A., ix, 9, 81, 118, 141, 176
"Little Hsu," xiii
Loo-Choo Islands, 31
Lucander, Mr. and Mrs., 3, 5, 18, 69, 79
Lucas, Dr. F. A., acknowledgment to, viii
Lü, cook for expedition, 39, 85, 117
Lung, Ch'ien, Emperor, tomb of, 260
MacCallie, Mr. and Mrs. E. L., x, 39, 43, 46, 48, 50, 53, 54, 67, 61,
75, 103, 164, 173
Magyars, 25, 32
Mai-ma-cheng, 62, 141, 173
Mallards, 192
Ma-lin-yü, residence of Duke Chou, 259
_Ma-lu_, 223, 225
Mamen, Mr. and Mrs. Oscar, x, 3, 25, 28, 61, 69, 103, 173
Mammals, Asiatic, viii
Manchu, xi;
dynasty of, xiv
Manchus, 8
Mannlicher, 173, 239
_Marmota robusta_, 101
Marmot, 25, 52, 61, 88, 99, 100;
Mongols' method of capturing, 103, 174, 178
Mauser, 16
Meadow mice (_Microtus_), 93
Memorial addressed to President of Chinese Republic, xiii
_Microtus_, 93, 100, 181
Ministry of Foreign Affairs, ix
Mongolia, fauna of, vii;
religion of, 71
Mongolian Trading Company, 25
Mongols, 8, 22, 41, 43;
dislike for the body of the dead, 74;
dress of, 21, 64, 65;
food of, 78;
manner of riding of, 21;
manner of catching trout by, 164;
morals of, 78;
Southern, 10
Motion picture photography, 47, 50, 136
Motor cars, 2, 3, 43, 50, 58, 62, 66, 84, 134, 174, 182;
Ford, 28;
hunting from, 109;
troubles with, 13, 27, 150
Musk deer, 169, 170
_Mustela_, 110
Naha, 31
Na-mon-gin, Mongol hunter, 195, 196, 205, 210, 213, 232, 236
Nankou Pass, 2
_Natural History_, ix
_Nemorhædus caudatus_, 234
_Nemorhædus griseus_, 234
Olufsen, E. V., ix, 82, 138, 142
Omsk, 32
Orlow, A., Russian Diplomatic Agent, x, 88
Osborn, Henry Fairfield, viii, 18
Outer Mongolia, xii, 41
_Ovis commosa_, 186
_Ovis jubata_, 186
Owen, 39, 50
Panj-kiang, telegraph station at, 14, 22, 31, 44, 54, 128
_Pan-yang_ wild sheep, 176, 180, 194, 201, 214
Peck, Willys, ix
Peking, 1, 26, 29, 37, 173, 178, 183
Peking-Hankow Railroad, 242
Peking Press, quoted from, xiii-xv
Peking-Suiyuan Railway, 44;
motor service of, 180
Perry, Commodore, 31
Pheasant, Reeves's (_Syrmaticus reevesi_), 263
Photography, motion picture, 47, 50, 136
Ping-ting-cho, 242
Plover, 11, 45, 95
_Pluvialis dominicus fulvus_, 45
Polecat (_Mustela_), 110
Polo, Marco, 12
Prayer wheels, 73, 80
President, Chinese Republic, Memorial addressed to, xiii
Price, Ernest B., ix, 25, 33
Prisons, description of, 80
Pucrasia, 267
Rat, kangaroo (_Alactaga mongolica?_), 132
Ravens, 11
Red Army, xiv
Redheads, 95
Reinsch, Paul S., ix
Rifles used on expedition;
Mannlicher, 173, 234;
Savage, 16
Rockefeller Foundation, 100
Roebuck, 67, 154, 163, 194, 231, 243
_Rupicaprinæ_, 234
Russia, xii, xiv
Russian Consulate, 63
Russians, xii, 13, 67
Russo-Chinese, xii
Sain Noin Khan, 87, 88, 97
Savage rifle, 16
Serow, 38, 234
Shanghai, 183
Shansi Mountains, 5
Shantung, 38
Sheep, bighorn, 205
Sheldrake (_Casarca casarca_), 42, 94
Shensi, 182
Sherwood, George H., assistance rendered to expedition by, viii
Shing Lung-shan, 261
Shuri, Palace, 32
Sian-fu, 182
Siberian frontier, 179
Sika deer (_Cervus hortulorum_), 263
Skylarks, 93
Smith, E. G., ix, 242, 244, 246, 250, 253, 256
Stefansson, 87
Swan geese (_Cygnopsis cygnoides_), 94
_Syrmaticus reevesi_, 263
Tabool, 9, 10
Tai Hai, 191
Tai-yuan-fu, 243
Takin, 234
Tanu Ulianghai, xiv
Tao Kwang, Emperor, xiii
Teal, 11, 42
Telegraph poles, method of protection of, 11
Tenney, Dr. C. D., ix
Tent, American wall, 90;
Mongol, 85, 90
Terelche region, 172
Terelche River, 143, 147
Terelche Valley, 157
Tibet, vii, 106
Tientsin, 178, 183
Tola River, 25, 28, 62, 68, 70, 88, 91, 99, 158, 161, 164
Tola Valley, 67
Tombs, 257
_Trans-Pacific Magazine_, ix
Trans-Siberian Railroad, 183
Trout, manner of catching by Mongols, 164
Tsai Tse, Duke, visit to palace of, 256
Tung-cho, 258
_Tung Ling_, 257;
pheasants and deer found at, 263
Turin, 29, 81, 61, 104, 176, 180;
lamasery at, 23
Tziloa, pigs found at, 245
Tz'u-hsi, Dowager Empress, funeral of, 258
Ude, telegraph station, 22, 31, 55
Uliassutai, 178, 182
Urga, important fur market, 173, 178, 182
Urumchi, 182
Verkhin Udinsk, 183
Vole, meadow (_Microtus_), 100, 131
Wai Chiao Pu, (Ministry of Foreign Affairs), ix
Wapiti, 164, 168, 172, 228, 231
Warner, Langdon, 31, 32
Weatherall, M. E., ix
Weinz, Father, Belgian priest, 35
Wells, description of, 13
White Army, xiv
Wilder, Dr. George D., ix, 256
Wireless station in course of erection, 182
Wolf, 51, 67
Wu Liang Tajen Hutung, 38, 257
Wu-shi-tu, 234
Wu-tai-hai, 219, 221, 235
Yangsen, Loobitsan, Duke, 137, 140, 144, 152
Yero mines, gold found at, 179
Yün-nan, vii, 2, 106
_Yurt_, Mongol house, description of, 10, 57, 63
* * * * *
Transcriber Note
Minor typos corrected. Text rearranged to prevent Plates from splitting
paragraphs. _Anser fabalis_ was listed as _Fabalis anser_ in the
Index which has been corrected. Several species genera were listed as
_prejevalski_ in the Index which were corrected to _prjevalski_.