CHAPTER XVIII

WILD PIGS--ANIMAL AND HUMAN

Shansi Province is famous for wild boar among the sportsmen of China.

In the central part there are low mountains and deep ravines thickly

forested with a scrub growth of pine and oak. The acorns are a favorite

food of the pigs, and the pigs are a favorite food of the Chinese--and

of foreigners, too, for that matter. No domestic pork that I have ever

tasted can excel a young acorn-fed wild pig! Even a full-grown sow

is delicious, but beware of an old boar; not only is he tough beyond

description, but his flesh is so "strong" that it annoys me even to see

it cooked. I tried to eat some boar meat, once upon a time--that is why

I feel so deeply about it.

It is useless to hunt wild pig until the leaves are off the trees, for

your only hope is to find them feeding on the hillsides in the morning

or early evening. Then they will often come into the open or the thin

forests, and you can have a fair shot across a ravine or from the

summit of a hill. If they are in the brush it is well-nigh impossible

to see them at all. A wild boar is very clever at eluding his pursuers,

and for his size can carry off more lead and requires more killing than

any other animal of which I know. Therefore, you may be sure of a

decidedly interesting hunt. On the other hand, an unsuspecting pig is

easy to stalk, for his eyesight is not good; his sense of smell is not

much better; and he depends largely upon hearing to protect him from

enemies.

In Tientsin and Shanghai there are several sportsmen who year after

year go to try for record tusks--they are the real authorities on wild

boar hunting. My own experience has been limited to perhaps a dozen

pigs killed in Korea, Mongolia, Celebes, and various parts of China.

Harry Caldwell and I returned from our bighorn sheep and wapiti hunt

on November 19. He was anxious to go with me for wild boar, but

business required his presence in Foochow, and Everett Smith, who

had been my companion on a trip to the Eastern Tombs the previous

spring, volunteered to accompany me. We left on November 28 by the

Peking-Hankow Railroad for Ping-ting-cho, arriving the following

afternoon at two o'clock. There we obtained donkeys for pack and

riding animals. All the traffic in this part of Shansi is by mules or

donkeys. As a result the inns are small, with none of the spacious

courtyards which we had found in the north of the province. They were

not particularly dirty, but the open coal fires which burned in every

kitchen sometimes drove us outside for a breath of untainted air. How

it is possible for human beings to exist in rooms so filled with coal

gas is beyond my knowledge. Of course, death from gas poisoning is not

unusual, but I suppose the natives have become somewhat immune to its

effects.

Our destination was a tiny village in the mountains about eight miles

beyond Ho-shun, a city of considerable size in the very center of the

province. Tai-yuan-fu, the capital, at the end of the railway, is

a famous place for pigs; but they have been hunted so persistently

in recent years that few remain within less than two or three days'

journey from the city.

It was a three days' trip from the railroad to Ho-shun, and there was

little of interest to distinguish the road from any other in north

China. It is always monotonous to travel with pack animals or carts,

for they go so slowly that you can make only two or three miles an

hour, at best. If there happens to be shooting along the way, as there

is in most parts of Shansi, it helps to pass the time. We picked up a

few pheasants, some chuckars, and a dozen pigeons, but did not stop to

do any real hunting until we entered a wooded valley and established

ourselves in a fairly comfortable Chinese hut at the little village

of Kao-chia-chuang. On the way in we met a party of Christian Brother

missionaries who had been hunting in the vicinity for five days. They

had seen ten or twelve pigs and had killed a splendid boar weighing

about three hundred and fifty pounds as well as two roebuck.

The mountains near the village had been so thoroughly hunted that

there was little chance of finding pigs, but nevertheless we decided

to stay for a day or two. I killed a two-year-old roebuck on the first

afternoon; and the next morning, while Smith and I were resting on a

mountain trail, one of our men saw an enormous wild boar trot across

an open ridge and disappear into a heavily forested ravine. I selected

a post on a projecting shoulder, while one Chinese went with Smith to

pick up the trail of the pig. There were so many avenues of escape open

to the boar that I had to remain where it was possible to watch a large

expanse of country.

Smith had not yet reached the bottom of the ravine when the native

who had remained with me suddenly began to gesticulate wildly and to

point to a wooded slope directly in front of us. He hopped about like

a man who has suddenly lost his mind and succeeded in keeping in front

of me so that I could see nothing but his waving arms and writhing

body. Finally seizing him by the collar, I threw him to the ground so

violently that he realized his place was behind me. Then I saw the pig

running along a narrow trail, silhouetted against the snow which lay

thinly on the shaded side of the hill.

He was easily three hundred and fifty yards away and I had little hope

of hitting him, but I selected an open patch beyond a bit of cover and

fired as he emerged. The boar squealed and plunged forward into the

bushes. A moment later he reappeared, zigzagging his way up the slope

and only visible through the trees when he crossed a patch of snow. I

emptied the magazine of my rifle in a futile bombardment, but the boar

crossed the summit and disappeared.

We picked up his bloody trail and for two hours followed it through a

tangled mass of scrub and thorns. It seemed certain that we must find

him at any moment, for great red blotches stained the snow wherever he

stopped to rest. At last the trail led us across an open ridge, and the

snow and blood suddenly ceased. We could not follow his footprints in

the thick grass and abandoned the chase just before dark.

Two more days of unsuccessful hunting convinced us that the

missionaries had driven the pigs to other cover. There was a region

twelve miles away to which they might have gone, and we shifted camp

to a village named Tziloa a mile or more from the scrub-covered hills

which we wished to investigate.

The natives of this part of the country were in no sense hunters. They

were farmers who, now that the crops were harvested, had plenty of

leisure time and were glad to roam the hills with us. Although their

eyesight was remarkable and they were able to see a pig twice as far

as we could, they had no conception of stalking the game or of how to

hunt it. When we began to shoot, instead of watching the pigs, they

were always so anxious to obtain the empty cartridge cases that a wild

scramble ensued after every shot. They were like street boys fighting

for a penny. It was a serious handicap for successful hunting, and they

kept me in such a state of irritation that I never shot so badly in all

my life.

We found pigs at Tziloa immediately. The carts went by road to the

village, while Smith and I, with two Chinese, crossed the mountains.

On the summit of a ridge not far from the village we met eight native

hunters. Two of them had ancient muzzle-loading guns but the others

only carried staves. Evidently their method of hunting was to surround

the pigs and drive them close up to the men with firearms.

We persuaded one of the Chinese, a boy of eighteen, with cross-eyes

and a funny, dried-up little face, to accompany us, for our two guides

wished to return that night to Kao-chia-chuang. He led us down a spur

which projected northward from the main ridge, and in ten minutes we

discovered five pigs on the opposite side of a deep ravine. The sun lay

warmly on the slope, and the animals were lazily rooting in the oak

scrub. They were a happy family--a boar, a sow, and three half-grown

piglets.

We slipped quietly among the trees until we were directly opposite to

them and not more than two hundred yards away. The boar and the sow had

disappeared behind a rocky corner, and the others were slowly following

so that the opportunity for a shot would soon be lost. Telling Smith to

take the one on the left, I covered another which stood, half facing

me. At the roar of my rifle the ravine was filled with wild squeals,

and the pig rolled down the hill bringing up against a tree. The boar

rushed from behind the rock, and I fired quickly as he stood broadside

on. He plunged out of sight, and the gorge was still!

Smith had missed his pig and was very much disgusted. The three Chinese

threw themselves down the slope, slipping and rolling over logs and

stones, and were up the opposite hill before we reached the bottom of

the ravine. They found the pig which I had killed and a blood-splashed

trail leading around the hill where the boar had disappeared.

My pig was a splendid male in the rich red-brown coat of adolescence.

The bullet had struck him "amid-ships" and shattered the hip on the

opposite side. From the blood on the trail we decided that I had shot

the big boar through the center of the body about ten inches behind the

forelegs.

We had learned by experience how much killing a full-grown pig

required, and had no illusions about finding him dead a few yards away,

even though both sides of his path were blotched with red at every

step. Therefore, while the Chinese followed the trail, Smith and I

sprinted across the next ridge into a thickly forested ravine to head

off the boar.

We took stations several yards apart, and suddenly I heard Smith's

rifle bang six times in quick succession. The Chinese had disturbed the

pig from a patch of cover and it had climbed the opposite hill slope in

full view of Smith, who apparently had missed it every time. Missing a

boar dodging about among the bushes is not such a difficult thing to

do, and although poor Smith was too disgusted even to talk about it, I

had a good deal of sympathy for him.

We had little hope of getting the animal when we climbed to the summit

of the ridge and saw the tangle of brush into which it had disappeared,

but nevertheless we followed the trail which was still showing blood.

I was in front and was just letting myself down a snow-covered bowlder,

when far below me I saw a huge sow and a young pig walking slowly

through the trees. I turned quickly, lost my balance, and slipped feet

first over the rock into a mass of thorns and scrub. A locomotive could

not have made more noise, and I extricated myself just in time to see

the two pigs disappear into a grove of pines. I was bleeding from a

dozen scratches, but I climbed to the summit of the ridge and dashed

forward hoping to cut them off if they crossed below me. They did

not appear, and we tried to drive them out from the cover into which

they had made their way; but we never saw them again. It was already

beginning to grow dark and too late to pick up the trail of the wounded

boar, so we had to call it a day and return to the village.

One of our men carried my shotgun and we killed half a dozen pheasants

on the way back to camp. The birds had come into the open to feed, and

small flocks were scattered along the valley every few hundred yards.

We saw about one hundred and fifty in less than an hour, besides a few

chuckars.

I have never visited any part of China where pheasants were so

plentiful as in this region. Had we been hunting birds we could have

killed a hundred or more without the slightest difficulty during the

time we were looking for pigs. We could not shoot, however, without

the certainty of disturbing big game and, consequently, we only killed

pheasants when on the way back to camp. During the day the birds kept

well up toward the summits of the ridges and only left the cover in the

morning and evening.

Our second hunt was very amusing, as well as successful. We met the

same party of Chinese hunters early in the morning, and agreed to

divide the meat of all the pigs we killed during the day if they would

join forces with us. Among them was a tall, fine-looking young fellow,

evidently the leader, who was a real hunter--the only one we found in

the entire region. He knew instinctively where the pigs were, what they

would do, and how to get them.

He led us without a halt along the summit of the mountain into a ravine

and up a long slope to the crest of a knifelike ridge. Then he suddenly

dropped in the grass and pointed across a cañon to a bare hillside. Two

pigs were there in plain sight--one a very large sow. They were fully

three hundred yards away and on the edge of a bushy patch toward which

they were feeding slowly. Smith left me to hurry to the bottom of the

cañon where he could have a shot at close range if either one went down

the hill, while I waited behind a stone. Before he was halfway down the

slope the sow moved toward the patch of cover into which the smaller

pig had already disappeared. It must be then, if I was to have a shot

at all. I fired rather hurriedly and registered a clean miss. Both

pigs, instead of staying in the cover where they would have been safe,

dashed down the open slope toward the bottom of the cañon. At my first

shot all eight of the Chinese had leaped for the empty rifle shell and

were rolling about like a pack of dogs after a bone. One of them struck

my leg just as I fired the second time and the bullet went into the

air; I delivered a broadside of my choicest Chinese oaths and the man

drew off. I sent three shots after the fleeing sow, but she disappeared

unhurt.

One shell remained in my rifle, and I saw the other pig running like a

scared rabbit in the very bottom of the cañon. It was so far away that

I could barely see the animal through my sights, but when I fired it

turned a complete somersault and lay still; the bullet had caught it

squarely in the head.

Meanwhile, Smith was having a lively time with the old sow. He had

swung around a corner of rock just in time to meet the pig coming at

full speed from the other side not six yards away. He tried to check

himself, slipped, and sat down suddenly but managed to fire once,

breaking the animal's left foreleg. It disappeared into the brush with

Smith after it.

He began an intermittent bombardment which lasted half an hour.

_Bang, bang, bang_--then silence. _Bang, bang, bang_--silence again.

I wondered what it all meant and finally ran down the bottom of the

valley until I saw Smith opposite to me just under the rim of the

ravine. He was tearing madly through the brush not far behind the

sow. As the animal appeared for an instant on the summit of a rise he

dropped on one knee and fired twice. Then I saw him race over the hill,

leaping the bushes like a roebuck. Once he rolled ten feet into a mass

of thorn scrub, but he was up again in an instant, hurdling the brush

and fallen logs, his eye on the pig.

It was screamingly funny and I was helpless with laughter. "Go it.

Smith," I yelled. "Run him down. Catch him in your hands." He had no

breath to waste in a reply, for just then he leaped a fallen log and

I saw the sow charge him viciously. The animal had been lying under a

tree, almost done, but still had life enough to damage Smith badly if

it had reached him. As the man landed on his feet, he fired again at

the pig which was almost on him. The bullet caught the brute in the

shoulder at the base of the neck and rolled it over, but it struggled

to its feet and ran uncertainly a few steps; then it dropped in a

little gully.

By the time I had begun to climb the hill Smith shouted that the pig

might charge again, and I kept my rifle ready, but the animal was "all

in." I circled warily and, creeping up from behind, drove my hunting

knife into its heart; even then it struggled to get at me before it

rolled over dead.

Smith was streaming blood from a score of scratches, and his clothes

were in ribbons, but his face was radiant. "I'd have chased the blasted

pig clear to Peking," he said. "All my shells are gone, but I wasn't

going to let him get away. If I hadn't kept that last cartridge he'd

have caught me, surely."

It was fine enthusiasm and, if ever a man deserved his game. Smith

deserved that sow. The animal had been shot in half a dozen places; two

legs were broken, and at least three of the bullets had reached vital

spots. Still the brute kept on. Any one who thinks pigs are easy to

kill ought to try the ones in Shansi! The sow weighed well over three

hundred pounds, and it required six men to carry the two pigs into

camp. We got no more, although we saw two others, but still we felt

that the day had not been ill spent. As long as I live I shall never

forget Smith's hurdle race after that old sow.

Although I killed two roebuck, the next day I returned to camp with

rage in my heart. Smith and I had separated late in the afternoon, and

I was hunting with an old Chinese when we discovered three pigs--a huge

boar, a sow, and a shote--crossing an open hill. Crawling on my face,

I reached a rock not seventy yards from the animals. At the first shot

the boar pitched over the bluff into a tangle of thorns, squealing

wildly. My second bullet broke the shoulder of the sow, and I had a mad

chase through a patch of scrub, but finally lost her.

When I returned to get the big boar I discovered my Chinese squatted on

his haunches in the ravine. He blandly informed me that the pig could

not be found. I spent the half hour of remaining daylight burrowing in

the thorn scrub without success. I learned later that the native had

concealed the dead pig under a mass of stones and that during the night

he and his confreres had carried it away. Moreover, after we left, they

also got the sow which I had wounded. Although at the time I did not

suspect the man's perfidy, nevertheless it was apparent that he had not

kept his eyes on the boar as I had told him to do; otherwise the pig

could not possibly have escaped.

We had one more day of hunting because Smith had obtained two

weeks' leave. The next morning dawned dark and cloudy with spurts

of hail--just the sort of weather in which animals prefer to stay

comfortably snuggled under a bush in the thickest cover. Consequently

we saw nothing all day except one roebuck, which I killed. It was

running at full speed when I fired, and it disappeared over the crest

of a hill without a sign of injury. Smith was waiting on the other

side, and I wondered why he did not shoot, until we reached the summit

and discovered the deer lying dead in the grass. Smith had seen the

buck plunge over the ridge, and just as he was about to fire, it

collapsed.

We found that my bullet had completely smashed the heart, yet the

animal had run more than one hundred yards. As it fell, one of its

antlers had been knocked off and the other was so loose that it dropped

in my hand when I lifted the head. This was on December 11. The other

bucks which I had killed still wore their antlers, but probably they

would all have been shed before Christmas. The growth takes place

during the winter, and the velvet is all off the new antlers by the

following May.

On the way back to camp we saw a huge boar standing on an open

hillside. Smith and I fired hurriedly and both missed a perfectly easy

shot. With one of the Chinese I circled the ridge, while Smith took

up the animal's trail. We arrived on the edge of a deep ravine just

as the boar appeared in the very bottom. I fired as it rushed through

the bushes, and the pig squealed but never hesitated. The second shot

struck behind it, but at the third it squealed again and dived into a

patch of cover. When we reached the spot we found a great pool of blood

and bits of entrails--but no pig. A broad red patch led through the

snow, and we followed, expecting at every step to find the animal dead.

Instead, the track carried us down the hill, up the bottom of a ravine,

and onto a hill bare of snow but thickly covered with oak scrub.

While Smith and I circled ahead to intercept the pig, the Chinese

followed the trail. It was almost dark when we went back to the men,

who announced that the blood had ceased and that they had lost the

track. It seemed incredible; but they had so trampled the trail where

it left the snow that we could not find it again in the gloom.

Then Smith and I suspected what we eventually found to be true,

viz., that the men had discovered the dead pig and had purposely led

us astray. We had no proof, however, and they denied the charge so

violently that we began to think our suspicions were unfounded.

We had to leave at daylight next morning in order to reach Peking

before Smith's leave expired. Two days after we left, one of my friends

arrived at Kao-chia-chuang, where we had first hunted, and reported

that the Chinese had brought in all four of the pigs which we had

wounded. One of them, probably the boar we lost on the last night,

was an enormous animal which the natives said weighed more than five

hundred pounds. Of course, this could not have been true, but it

probably did reach nearly four hundred pounds.

What Smith and I said when we learned that the scoundrels had cheated

us would not look well in print. However, it taught us several things

about boar hunting which will prove of value in the future. The Chinese

can sell wild pig meat for a very high price since it is considered

to be a great delicacy. Therefore, if I wound a pig in the future I

shall, myself, follow its trail to the bitter end. Moreover, I learned

that, to knock over a wild boar and keep him down for good, one needs a

heavy rifle. The bullet of my 6.5 mm. Mannlicher, which has proved to

be a wonderful killer for anything up to and including sheep, has not

weight enough behind it to stop a pig in its tracks. These animals have

such wonderful vitality that, even though shot in a vital spot, they

can travel an unbelievable distance. Next time I shall carry a rifle

especially designed for pigs and thieving Chinese!

Across Mongolian Plains A Naturalist's Account of China's 'Great Northwest' · 第 18 / 19 章