and put them into a saucepan with half a pint of red wine, the same
quantity of gravy, one anchovy, a little shalot, whole pepper, and salt;
let them stew a little; then put in the meat with a few capers, and,
when thoroughly hot, thicken with butter rolled in flour.
_Mustard, to make._
Mix three table-spoonfuls of mustard, one of salt, and cold spring water
sufficient to reduce it to a proper thickness.
_Chine of Mutton, to roast._
Let the chine hang downward, and raise the skin from the bone. Take
slices of lean gammon of bacon, and season it with chives, parsley, and
white pepper; spread them over the chine, and lay the bacon upon them.
Turn the skin over them, and tie it up; cover with paper, and roast.
When nearly done, dredge with crumbs of bread, and serve up, garnishing
with mutton cutlets.
_Mutton chops, to stew._
Put them in a stewpan, with an onion, and enough cold water to cover
them; when come to a boil, skim and set them over a very slow fire till
tender; perhaps about three quarters of an hour.
Turnips may be boiled with them.
_Mutton cutlets._
Cut a neck of mutton into cutlets; beat it till very tender; wash it
with thick melted butter, and strew over the side which is buttered some
sweet-herbs, chopped small, with grated bread, a little salt, and
nutmeg. Lay it on a gridiron over a charcoal fire, and, turning it, do
the same to that side as the other. Make sauce of gravy, anchovies,
shalots, thick butter, a little nutmeg, and lemon.
_Mutton cutlets, with onion sauce._
Cut the cutlets very small; trim all round, taking off all the fat; cut
off the long part of the bone; put them into a stewpan, with all the
trimmings that have been cut off, together with one onion cut in slices;
add some parsley, a carrot or two, a pinch of salt, and six
table-spoonfuls of mutton or veal jelly, and let them stew till the
cutlets are of a brown colour all round, but do not let them burn. Take
out the cutlets, drain them in a sieve, and let them cool; then strain
the sauce till it becomes of a fine glaze, and re-warm them. Have ready
some good onion sauce; put it in the middle of the dish; place the
cutlets--eight, if they are small--round it, and serve the glaze with
them; take care it does not touch the onion sauce, but pour it round the
outside part.
_Mutton hams, to make._
Cut a hind quarter of mutton like a ham. Take one ounce of saltpetre,
one pound of coarse sugar, and one pound of common salt; mix them
together, and rub the ham well with them. Lay it in a hollow tray with
the skin downward; baste it every day for a fortnight; then roll it in
sawdust, and hang it in wood smoke for a fortnight. Boil and hang it in
a dry place; cut it out in rashers. It does not eat well boiled, but is
delicious broiled.
_Haricot Mutton._
Take a neck of mutton, and cut it in the same manner as for mutton
chops. When done, lay them in your stewpan, with a blade of mace, some
whole peppercorns, a bunch of sweet-herbs, two onions, one carrot, one
turnip, all cut in slices, and lay them over your mutton. Set your
stewpan over a slow fire, and let the chops stew till they are brown;
turn them, that the other side may be the same. Have ready some good
gravy, and pour on them, and let them stew till they are very tender.
Your ragout must be turnips and carrots cut into dice, and small onions,
all boiled very tender, and well stirred up in the liquor in which your
mutton was stewed.
_Another way._
Fry mutton chops in butter till they are brown, but not done through.
Lay them flat in a stewpan, and just cover them with gravy. Put in small
onions, whole carrots, and turnips, scooped or cut into shapes; let them
stew very gently for two hours or more. Season the chops before you fry
them with pepper and salt.
_Leg of Mutton._
To give a leg of mutton the taste of mountain meat, hang it up as long
as it will keep fresh; rub it every day with ginger and coarse brown
sugar, leaving it on the meat.
_Leg of Mutton in the French fashion._
A leg of mutton thus dressed is a very excellent dish. Pare off all the
skin as neatly as possible; lard the leg with the best lard, and stick a
few cloves here and there, with half a clove of garlic, laid in the
shank. When half roasted, cut off three or four thin pieces, so as not
to disfigure it, about the shank bone; mince these very fine with sage,
thyme, mint, and any other sweet garden herbs; add a little beaten
ginger, very little, three or four grains; as much cayenne pepper, two
spoonfuls of lemon juice, two ladlefuls of claret wine, a few capers,
the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs: stew these in some meat jelly, and,
when thoroughly stewed, pour over your roast, and serve it up. Do not
spare your meat jelly; let the sauce be in generous quantity.
_Leg of Mutton or Beef, to hash._
Cut small flat pieces of the meat, taking care to pare the skin and
sinews, but leaving as much fat as you can find in the inside of the
leg; season with a little salt and cayenne pepper and a little soup
jelly; put in two whole onions, two bunches of parsley, the same of
thyme, and a table-spoonful of mushroom-powder. Take two or three little
balls of flour and butter, of the size of a nut, to thicken the sauce;
beat it well together; let this simmer a little while; take off the
scum; put in the meat, and let it boil. Serve up hot, with fried bread
round it.
_Another way._
Take the mutton and cut it into slices, taking off the skin and fat;
beat it well, and rub the dish with garlic; put in the mutton with
water, and season with salt, an onion cut in half, and a bundle of
savoury herbs; cover it, and set it over a stove and stew it. When half
stewed, add a little white wine (say two glasses) three blades of mace,
and an anchovy; stew it till enough done; then take out the onion and
herbs, and put the hash into the dish, rubbing a piece of butter in
flour to thicken it, and serve it up.
_Loin of Mutton, to stew._
Cut your mutton in steaks, and put it into as much water as will cover
it. When it is skimmed, add four onions sliced and four large turnips.
_Neck of Mutton, to roast._
Draw the neck with parsley, and then roast it; and, when almost enough,
dredge it with white pepper, salt, and crumbs; serve it with the juice
of orange and gravy.
_Neck of Mutton, to boil._
Lard a neck of mutton with lemon-peel, and then boil it in salt and
water, with sweet-herbs. While boiling, stew a pint of oysters in their
own liquor, half a pint of white wine, and the like quantity of broth;
put in two or three whole onions and some anchovies, grated nutmeg, and
a little thyme. Thicken the broth with the yolks of four eggs, and dish
it up with sippets. Lay the oysters under the meat, and garnish with
barberries and lemon.
_Neck of Mutton, to fry._
Take the best end of a neck of mutton, cut it into steaks, beat them
with a rolling-pin, strew some salt on them, and lay them in a
frying-pan: hold the pan over a slow fire that may not burn them: turn
them as they heat, and there will be gravy enough to fry them in, till
they are half done. Then put to them some good gravy; let them fry
together, till they are done; add a good bit of butter, shake it up, and
serve it hot with pickles.
_Saddle of Mutton and Kidneys._
Raise the skin of the fore-chine of mutton, and draw it with lemon and
thyme; and with sausage-meat farce part of it. Take twelve kidneys,
farce, skewer, and afterwards broil them; and lay round horseradish
between, with the gravy under.
_Shoulder of Mutton, to roast in blood._
Cut the shoulder as you would venison; take off the skin, and let it lie
in blood all night. Take as much powder of sweet-herbs as will lie on a
sixpence, a little grated bread, pepper, nutmeg, ginger, and lemon-peel,
the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, about twenty oysters, and some salt;
temper these all together with the blood; stuff the meat thickly with
it, and lay some of it about the mutton; then wrap the caul of the sheep
about the shoulder; roast it, and baste it with blood till it is nearly
done. Take off the caul, dredge, baste it with butter, and serve it with
venison sauce. If you do not cut it venison fashion, yet take off the
skin, because it will eat tough; let the caul be spread while it is
warm, and, when you are to dress it, wrap it up in a cloth dipped in hot
water. For sauce, take some of the bones of the breast; chop and put to
them a whole onion, a little lemon-peel, anchovies, and a little spice.
Stew these; add some red wine, oysters, and mushrooms.
_Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton, with Oysters._
Make six holes in either a shoulder or leg of mutton with a knife: roll
in eggs with your oysters, with crumbs and nutmeg, and stuff three or
four in every hole. If you roast, put a caul over it; if for boiling, a
napkin. Make some good oyster sauce, which lay under, and serve up hot.
_Roasted Mutton, with stewed Cucumbers._
Bone a neck and loin of mutton, leaving on only the top bones, about an
inch long; draw the one with parsley, and lard the other with bacon very
closely; and, after skewering, roast them. Fry and stew your cucumbers;
lay them under the mutton, and season them with salt, pepper, vinegar,
and minced shalot, and put the sauce under the mutton, garnishing with
pickled cucumbers and horseradish.
_Mutton to eat like Venison._
Boil and skin a loin of mutton; take the bones, two onions, two
anchovies, a bunch of sweet-herbs, some pepper, mace, carrot, and crust
of bread; stew these all together for gravy; strain it off, and put the
mutton into a stewpan with the fat side downward; add half a pint of
port wine. Stew it till thoroughly done.
_Mutton in epigram._
Roast a shoulder of mutton till it is three parts done, and let it cool;
raise the skin quite up to the knuckle, and cut off all to the knuckle.
Sauce the blade-bone; broil it, and hash the rest, putting in some
capers, with good gravy, pickled cucumbers, and shalots. Stir them well
up, and lay the blade-bone on the skin.
_Mushrooms, to stew brown._
Take some pepper and salt, with a little cayenne and a little cream;
thicken with butter and flour. To do them white, cut out all the black
inside.
_Newmarket John._
Cut the lean part of a leg of mutton in little thin collops; beat them;
butter a stewpan, and lay the collops all over. Have ready pepper, salt,
shalot or garlic, and strew upon them. Set them over a very slow fire.
As the gravy draws, turn over the collops, and dredge in a very little
flour; have ready some good hot gravy. Shake it up all together, and
serve with pickles.
_Ox-cheek, to stew._
Choose one that is fat and young, which may be known by the teeth; pick
out the eye-balls; cut away the snout and all superfluous bits. Wash and
clean it perfectly; well dry it in a cloth, and, with the back of a
cleaver, break all the bones in the inside of the cheek; then with a
rollingpin beat the flesh of the outside. If it is intended for the next
day's dinner, proceed in this manner:--quarter and lard it with marrow;
then pour on it garlic or elder vinegar so gently that it may sink into
the flesh; strew salt over it, and let it remain so till morning. Then
put it into a stewpan, big enough, if you do both cheeks, to admit of
their lying flat close to one another; but first rub the pan well with
garlic, and with a spoon spread a pound of butter and upwards at the
bottom and sides of the pan. Strew cloves and beaten mace on the cheeks,
also thyme and sweet marjoram, finely chopped; then put in as much white
wine as will cover them an inch or more above the meat, but wash not
off the other things by pouring it on. Rub the lid of the pan with
garlic, and cover it so close that no steam can escape. Make a brisk
fire under it, and, when the cover is so hot that you cannot bear your
hand on it, then a slack fire will stew it, but keep it so that the
cover be of the same heat as long as it is stewing. It must not be
uncovered the whole time it is doing: about three hours will be
sufficient. When you take it up, be careful not to break it; take out
the loose bones; pour the liquor on the cheek; clear from the fat and
the dross, and put lemon-juice to it. Serve it hot.
_Another way._
Soak it in water, and make it very clean; put it in a gallon of water,
with some potherbs, salt, and whole pepper. When stewed, so that the
bones will slip out easily, take it up and strain off the soup; put a
bit of butter in the frying-pan with some flour, and fry the meat brown,
taking care not to burn it. Put some of the soup to the flour and
butter, with ketchup, mushrooms, anchovy, and walnut liquor. Lay the
cheek in a deep dish, and pour the sauce over it.
_Ox-tail ragout._
Some good gravy must first be made, and the tail chopped through every
joint, and stewed a long time in it till quite tender, with an onion
stuck with cloves, a table-spoonful of port or Madeira wine, a
tea-spoonful of soy, and a little cayenne. Thicken the gravy with a
little flour.
_Another._
Take two or three ox-tails; put them in a saucepan, with turnips,
carrots, onions, and some black peppercorns; stew them for four hours.
Take them out; cut them in pieces at every joint; put them into a
stewpan with some good gravy, and scraped turnip and carrot; or cut them
into the shape of a ninepin; pepper and salt to your taste; add the
juice of half a lemon; and send it to table very hot.
_Peas, to stew._
Take a quart of fine peas, and two small or one large cabbage lettuce;
boil the lettuce tender; take it out of the water, shake it well, and
put it into the stewpan, with about two ounces of butter, three or four
little onions cut small, and the peas. Set them on a very slow fire, and
let them stew about two hours; season them to your taste with pepper and
a tea-spoonful of sugar; and, instead of salt, stew in some bits of
ham, which you may take out or leave in when you serve it. There should
not be a drop of water, except what inevitably comes from the lettuce.
_Another way._
To your peas, add cabbage lettuces cut small, a small faggot of mint,
and one onion; pass them over the fire with a small bit of butter, and,
when they are tender and the liquor from them reduced, take out the
onion and mint, and add a little white sauce. Take care it be not too
thin; season with a little pepper and salt.
_Green Peas, to keep till Christmas._
Gather your peas, when neither very young nor old, on a fine dry day.
Shell, and let two persons holding a cloth, one at each end, shake them
backward and forward for a few minutes. Put them into clean quart
bottles; fill the bottles, and cork tight. Melt some rosin in a pipkin,
dip the necks of the bottles into it, and set them in a cool dry place.
_Another way._
Shell the peas, and dry them in a gentle heat, not much greater than
that of a hot summer's day. Put them when quite dry into linen bags, and
hang them up in a dry place. Before they are boiled, at Christmas or
later, steep them in half milk, half water, for twelve or fourteen
hours; then boil them as if fresh gathered. Beans and French beans may
be preserved in the same manner.
_Red Pickle, for any meat._
A quarter of a pound of saltpetre, a large common basinful of coarse
sugar, and coarse salt. A leg of pork to lie in it a fortnight.
_Beef Steak Pie._
Rump steaks are preferable to beef; season them with the usual
seasoning, puff-paste top and bottom, and good gravy to fill the dish.
_Calf's Head Pie._
Parboil the head; cut it into thin slices; season with pepper and salt;
lay them into a crust with some good gravy, forcemeat balls, and yolks
of eggs boiled hard. Bake it about an hour and a half; cut off the lid;
thicken some good gravy with a little flour; add some oysters; serve it
with or without a lid.
_Mutton or Grass Lamb Pie._
Take a loin of mutton or lamb, and clear it from fat and skin; cut it
into steaks; season them well with pepper and salt; almost fill the dish
with water; lay puff paste at top and bottom.
_Veal Pie (common)._
Make exactly as you would a beef-steak pie.
_Veal Pie (rich)._
Take a neck, a fillet, or a breast of veal, cut from it your steaks,
seasoned with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a few cloves, truffles, and
morels; then slice two sweetbreads; season them in the same manner, and
put a layer of paste round the dish; then lay the meat, yolks of eggs
boiled hard, and oysters at the top: fill it with water. When taken out
of the oven, pour in at the top through a funnel some good boiled gravy,
thickened with cream and flour boiled up.
_Veal and Ham Pie._
Take two pounds of veal cutlets, or the best end of the neck, cut them
in pieces about half the size of your hand, seasoned with pepper and a
very little salt, and some dressed ham in slices. Lay them alternately
in the dish with forcemeat or sausage meat, the yolks of three eggs
boiled hard, and a gill of water.
_Veal Olive Pie._
Make your olives as directed in the receipt for making olives; put them
into a crust; fill the pie with water: when baked, pour in some good
gravy, boiled and thickened with a little good cream and flour boiled
together. These ingredients make an excellent pie.
_Beef Olive Pie._
Make your olives as you would common beef olives; put them into puff
paste, top and bottom; fill the pie with water, when baked, pour in some
good rich gravy.
_Pig, to barbicue._
The best pig for this purpose is of the thick neck breed, about six
weeks old. Season the barbicue very high with cayenne, black pepper, and
sage, finely sifted; which must be rubbed well into the inside of the
pig. It must then be sewed up and roasted, or, if an oven can be
depended upon, it will be equally good baked. The sauce must be a very
high beef gravy, with an equal quantity of Madeira wine in it. Send the
pig to table whole. Be careful not to put any salt into the pig, as it
will change its colour.
_Pig, to collar._
Have your pig cut down the back, and bone and wash it clean from the
blood; dry it well, and season it with spice, salt, parsley, and thyme,
and roll it hard in a collar; tie it close in a dry cloth and boil it
with the bones, in three pints of water, a quart of vinegar, a handful
of salt, a faggot of sweet-herbs, and whole spice. When tender, let it
cool and take it off; take it out of the cloth, and keep it in the
pickle.
_Pig, to collar in colours._
Boil and wash your pig well, and lay it on a dresser: chop parsley,
thyme, and sage, and strew them over the inside of the pig. Beat some
mace and cloves, mix with them some pepper and salt, and strew that
over. Boil some eggs hard, chop the yolks, and put them in layers across
your pig; boil some beet-root, and cut that into slices, and lay them
across; then roll it up in a cloth and boil it. Before it is cold, press
it with a weight, and it will be fit for use.
_Pig, to pickle or souse._
Take a fair fat pig, cut off his head, and cut him through the middle.
Take out the brains, lay them in warm water, and leave them all night.
Roll the pig up like brawn, boil till tender, and then throw it into an
earthen pan with salt and water. This will whiten and season the flesh;
for no salt must be put into the boiling for fear of turning it black.
Then take a quart of this broth and a quart of white wine, boil them
together, and put in three or four bay-leaves: when cold, season your
pig, and put it into this sauce. It will keep three months.
_Pig, to roast._
Chop the liver small by itself: mince blanched bacon, capers, truffles,
anchovy, mushrooms, sweet-herbs and garlic. Season and blanch the whole.
Fill your pig with it; tie it up; sprinkle some good olive oil over it;
roast and serve it up hot.
_Another way._
Put a piece of bread, parsley, and sage, cut small, into the belly with
a little salt; sew up the belly; spit the pig, and roast it; cut off the
ears and the under-jaws, which you will lay round; making a sauce with
the brains, thick butter and gravy, which lay underneath.
_Pig, to dress lamb fashion._
After skinning the pig, but leaving the skin quite whole, with the head
on, chine it down, as you would do mutton, larding it with thyme and
lemon-peel; and roast it in quarters like lamb. Fill the other part with
a plum-pudding; sew the belly up, and bake it.
_Pigs' Feet and Ears, fricassee of._
Clean the feet and ears, and boil them very tender. Cut them in small
shreds, the length of a finger and about a quarter of an inch in
breadth; fry them in butter till they are brown but not hard; put them
into a stewpan with a little brown gravy and a good piece of butter, two
spoonfuls of vinegar, and a good deal of mustard--enough to flavour it
strong. Salt to your taste; thicken with very little flour. Put in half
an onion; then take the feet, which should likewise be boiled as tender
as for eating; slit them quite through the middle; take out the large
bones; dip them in eggs, and strew them over with bread crumbs, seasoned
with pepper and salt; boil or fry them, and put them on the ragout, into
which squeeze some lemon-juice.
_Pigs' Feet and Ears, ragout of._
Split the feet, and take them out of souse; dip them in eggs, then in
bread-crumbs and chopped parsley; fry them in lard. Drain them; cut the
ears in long narrow slips; flour them; put them into some good gravy;
add ketchup, morels, and pickled mushrooms; stew them into the dish, and
lay on the feet.
_Pig's Head, to roll._
Take the belly-piece and head of pork, rub it well with saltpetre and a
very little salt; let it lie three or four days; wash it clean; then
boil the head tender, and take off all the meat with the ears, which cut
in pieces. Have ready four neats' feet, also well boiled; take out the
bones, cut the meat in thin slices, mix it with the head, and lay it
with the belly-piece: roll it up tight, and bind it up, and set it on
one end, with a trencher upon it; set it within the tin, and place a
heavy weight upon that, and let it stand all night. In the morning take
it out, and bind it with a fillet; put it in some salt and water, which
must be changed every four or five days. When sliced, it looks like
brawn. It is also good dipped in butter and fried, and eaten with melted
butter, mustard, and vinegar: for that purpose the slices should be only
about three inches square.
_Pilaw, an Indian dish._
Take six or eight ribs of a neck of mutton; separate and take off all
the skin and fat, and put them into a stewpan with twelve cloves, a
small piece of ginger, twelve grains of black pepper, and a little
cinnamon and mace, with one clove of garlic. Add as much water as will
serve to stew these ingredients thoroughly and make the meat tender.
Then take out the mutton, and fry it in nice butter of a light brown,
with some small onions chopped fine and fried very dry; put them to the
mutton-gravy and spice in which it was stewed, adding a table-spoonful
of curry-powder and half an ounce of butter. After mixing all the above
ingredients well together, put them to the rice, which should be
previously half boiled, and let the whole stew together, until the rice
is done enough and the gravy completely absorbed. When the pilaw is
dished for table, it should be thinly covered with plain boiled rice to
make it look white, and served up very hot.
_Pork, to collar._
Bone and season a breast of pork with savoury spice, parsley, sage, and
thyme; roll it in a hard collar of cloth; tie it close, and boil it,
and, when cold, keep it in souse.
_Pork, to pickle._
Having boned your pork, cut it into such pieces as will lie most
conveniently to be powdered. The tub used for this purpose must be
sufficiently large and sound, so as to hold the brine; and the narrower
and deeper it is the better it will keep the meat. Well rub the meat
with saltpetre; then take one part of bay and two parts of common salt,
and rub every piece well, covering it with salt, as you would a flitch
of bacon. Strew salt in the bottom of the tub; lay the pieces in it as
closely as possible, strewing salt round the sides of the tub, and if
the salt should even melt at the top strew no more. Meat thus cured will
keep a long time.
_Another way._
Cut your pork into small pieces, of the size you would boil at one time;
rub all the pieces very well with salt, and lay them on a dresser upon
boards made to slope that the brine may run off. After remaining three
or four days, wipe them with a dry cloth; have ready a quantity of salt
mixed with a small portion of saltpetre: rub each piece well with this
mixture, after which cover them all over with salt. Put them into an
earthen jar, or large pan, placing the pieces as close together as
possible, closing the top of the jar or pan, so as to prevent all
external air from getting in; put the shoulder pieces in a pan by
themselves. Pork prepared in this manner will keep good a year.
_Chine of Pork, to stuff and roast._
Make your stuffing of parsley, sage, thyme, eggs, crumbs of bread, and
season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and shalot; stuff the chine thick,
and roast it gently. When about a quarter roasted, cut the skin in
slips, making your sauce with lemon-peel, apples, sugar, butter, and
mustard, just as you would for a roast leg.
_Another way._
Take a chine of pork that has hung four or five days; make holes in the
lean, and stuff it with a little of the fat leaf, chopped very small,
some parsley, thyme, a little sage, and shalot, cut very fine, and
seasoned with pepper and salt. It should be stuffed pretty thick. Have
some good gravy in the dish. For sauce, use apple sauce.
_Pork Cutlets._
Cut off the skin of a loin or neck of pork and make cutlets; season them
with parsley, sage, and thyme, mixed together with crumbs of bread,
pepper, and salt; broil them, and make sauce with mustard, butter,
shalot, and gravy, and serve up hot.
_Gammon, to roast._
Let the gammon soak for twenty-four hours in warm water. Boil it tender,
but not too much. When hot, score it with your knife; put some pepper on
it, and then put it into a dish to crisp in a hot oven; but be mindful
to pull the skin off.
_Leg of Pork, to broil._
After skinning part of the fillet, cut it into slices, and hack it with
the back of your knife; season with pepper, salt, thyme, and sage,
minced small. Broil the slices on the gridiron, and serve with sauce
made with drawn butter, sugar, and mustard.
_Spring of Pork, to roast._
Cut off the spring of a knuckle of pork, and leave as much skin on the
spring as you can, parting it from the neck, and taking out the bones.
Rub it well with salt, and strew it all over with thyme shred small,
parsley, sage, a nutmeg, cloves, and mace, beaten small and well mixed
together. Rub all well in, and roll the whole up tight, with the flesh
inward. Sew it fast, spit it lengthwise, and roast it.
_Potatoes, to boil._ No. 1.
The following is the celebrated Lancashire receipt for cooking
potatoes:--Cleanse them well, put them in cold water, and boil them with
their skins on exceedingly slow. When the water bubbles, throw in a
little cold water. When they are done, drain the water completely away
through a colander; return them into a pot or saucepan without water;
cover them up, and set them before the fire for a quarter of an hour
longer. Do not pare the potatoes before they are boiled, which is a very
unwholesome and wasteful practice.
_Potatoes, to boil._ No. 2.
Scrape off the rind; put them into an iron pot; simmer them till they
begin to crack, and allow a fork to pierce easily; then pour off the
water, and put aside the lid of the pot, and sprinkle over some salt.
Place your pot at the edge of the fire, and there let it remain an hour
or more, and during this time all the moisture of the potatoes will
gradually exhale in steam, and you will find them white or flaky as
snow. Take them out with a spoon or ladle.
_Potatoes, to boil._ No. 3.
Boil them as usual; half an hour before sending to table, throw away the
water from them, and set the pot again on the fire; sufficient moisture
will come from the potatoes to prevent the pot from burning; let them
stand on the half stove, and not be peeled until sent to table.
_Potatoes, to bake._
Wash nicely, make into balls, and bake in the Dutch oven a light brown.
This forms a neat side or corner dish.
_Potato balls._
Pound some boiled potatoes in a mortar, with the yolks of two eggs, a
little pepper, and salt; make them in balls about the size of an egg; do
them over with yolk of egg and crumbs of bread; then fry them of a light
brown for table; five balls for a corner dish.
_Croquets of Potatoes._
Boil some potatoes in water, strain them, and take sufficient milk to
make them into a mash, rather thick; before you mix the potatoes put the
peel of half a lemon, finely grated, one lump of sugar, and a pinch of
salt; strain the milk after heating it, and add the potatoes; mash them
well together; let the mash cool; roll it into balls of the shape and
size of an egg; let there be ten or twelve of them; brush them over with
the yolk of egg, and roll them in crumbs of bread and a pinch of salt.
Do this twice over; then fry them of a fine brown colour, and serve them
with fried parsley round.
_Potatoes, to fry._
After your potatoes are nicely boiled and skinned, grate them, and to
every large table-spoonful of potatoes add one egg well beat, and to
each egg a small spoonful of cream, with some salt. Drop as many
spoonfuls as are proper in a pan in which is clarified butter.
_Potatoes, to mash._
After the potatoes are boiled and peeled, mash them in a mortar, or on a
clean board, with a broad knife, and put them into a stewpan. To two
pounds of potatoes put in half a pint of milk, a quarter of a pound of
butter, and a little salt; set them over the fire, and keep them stirred
till the butter is melted; but take care they do not burn to the bottom.
Dish them up in what form you please.
_Potatoes, French way of cooking._
Boil the potatoes in a weak white gravy till nearly done; stir in some
cream and vermicelli, with three or four blades of mace, and let it boil
till the potatoes are sufficiently done, without being broken.
_Potatoes, a-la-Maitre d'hotel._
Cut boiled potatoes into slices, not too thin; simmer them in a little
plain gravy, a bit of butter rubbed in a little flour, chopped parsley,
pepper, and salt, and serve hot.
_Rice, to boil._
To boil rice well, though a simple thing, is rarely well done. Have two
quarts of water boiling, while you wash six ounces of rice, picked
clean. Change the water three or four times. When the rice is clean,
drain and put it into the boiling water. Boil twenty minutes; add three
quarters of a table-spoonful of salt. Drain off the water well--this is
the most essential point--set it before the fire, spread thin to dry.
When dry, serve it up. If the rice is not dry, so that each grain
separates easily from the others, it is not properly boiled.
_Another way._
Put one pound of rice into three quarts of boiling water; let it remain
twenty minutes. Skim the water, and add one ounce of hog's lard and a
little salt and pepper. Let it simmer gently over the fire closely
covered, for an hour and a quarter, when it will be fit for use. This
will produce eight pounds of savoury rice.
_Rissoles._ No. 1.
Take a roasted fowl, turkey, or pullet; pull it into shreds; there must
be neither bone nor skin. Cut some veal and ham into large dice; put it
into a stewpan, with a little thyme, carrots, onions, cloves, and two
or three mushrooms. Make these ingredients simmer over a slow fire for
two hours, taking care they do not burn; put in a handful of flour, and
stir well, with a pint of cream and as much good broth; let the whole
then stew for a quarter of an hour; continue to stir with a wooden spoon
to prevent its burning. When it is done enough, strain it through a
woollen strainer; then put in the whole meat of the poultry you have
cut, with which you must make little balls of the size of pigeons' eggs.
Dip them twice in very fine crumbs of bread; wrap them in paste, rolled
very thin; then fry them in lard, which should be very hot.
_Rissoles._ No. 2.
Take the fleshy parts and breasts of two fowls, which cut into small
dice, all of an equal size; then throw them into some white sauce, and
reduce it till it becomes very thick and stiff. When this is cold, cut
it into several pieces, and roll them to the size and shape of a cork;
then roll them in crumbs of bread very fine; dip them into some white
and yolks of eggs put up together with a little salt, and roll them
again in bread. If they are not stiff enough to keep their shape, this
must be repeated; then fry them of a light brown colour, drain them,
wipe off the grease, and serve them with fried parsley between them.
_Rissoles._ No. 3.
Take of the pure made as directed for pheasant, veal, or game, (see
Pheasant under the head Game) a sufficient quantity for eight rissoles,
then a little of the jelly of veal, say about half a pint; put in it a
pinch of salt and of cayenne pepper, two table-spoonfuls of cream, the
yolk of one egg, and a piece of butter of the size of a walnut; mix this
sauce well together over the fire, strain it, and then add the pure. Let
it cool, and prepare a little puff-paste sufficient to wrap the rissoles
once over with it, taking care to roll the paste out thin. Fry them, and
send them up with fried parsley, without sauce. The rissoles must be
made stiff enough not to break in the frying.
_Rice._
One pound of veal or fowl, chopped fine; have ready some good bechamel
sauce mixed with parsley and lemon-juice; mix it of a good thickness.
When cold, make it up into balls, or what shape you please; dip them in
yolks of eggs and bread crumbs, and fry them a few minutes before they
go to table. They should be of a light brown, and sent up with fried
parsley.
_A Robinson, to make._
Take about eight or ten pounds of the middle of a brisket of beef; let
it hang a day; then salt it for three days hung up; afterwards put it in
strong red pickle, in which let it remain three weeks. Take it out, put
it into a pot with plenty of water, pepper, a little allspice, and
onion; let it simmer for seven or eight hours, but never let it boil.
When quite tender, take out all the bones, spread it out on a table to
cool, well beat it out with a rollingpin, and sprinkle with cayenne,
nutmeg, and very little cloves, pounded together. Put it in a coarse
cloth after it is rolled; twist it at each end to get out the fat, and
bind it well round with broad tape; in that state let it remain three
days.
_Salad, to dress._
Two or three eggs, two or three anchovies, pounded, a little tarragon
chopped very fine, a little thick cream, mustard, salt, and cayenne
pepper, mixed well together. After these are all well mixed, add oil, a
little tarragon, elder, and garlic vinegar, so as to have the flavour of
each, and then a little of the French vinegar, if there is not enough of
the others to give the requisite taste.
_Bologna Sausages._
Have the fillets of young, tender porkers, and out of the weight of
twenty-five pounds three parts are to be lean and one fat; season them
well in the small shredding with salt and pepper, a little grated
nutmeg, and a pint of white wine, mixed with a pint of hog's blood;
stirring and beating it well together, with a little of the sweet-herbs
finely chopped; with a funnel open the mouths of the guts, and thrust
the meat gently into it with a clean napkin, as by forcing it with your
hands you may break the gut. Divide them into what lengths you please;
tie them with fine thread, and let them dry in the air for two or three
days, if the weather be clear and a brisk wind, hanging them in rows at
a little distance from each other in the smoke-loft. When well dried,
rub off the dust they contract with a clean cloth; pour over them sweet
olive-oil, and cover them with a dry earthen vessel.
_English Sausages._
Chop and bruise small the lean of a fillet of young pork; to every pound
put a quarter of a pound of fat, well skinned, and season it with a
little nutmeg, salt, and pepper, adding a little grated bread; mix all
these well together, and put it into guts, seasoned with salt and
water.
_Another way._
Take six pounds of very fine well fed pork, quite free from gristle and
fat; cut it very small, and beat it fine in a mortar; shred six pounds
of suet, free from skin, as fine as possible. Take a good deal of sage,
the leaves picked off and washed clean, and shred fine as possible;
spread the meat on a clean table; then shake the sage, about three large
spoonfuls, all over; shred the yellow part of the rind of a lemon very
fine, and throw that over, with as much sweet-herbs, when shred fine, as
will fill a large spoon; grate two nutmegs over it, with two
tea-spoonfuls of bruised pepper, and a large spoonful of salt. Then
throw over it the suet, and mix all well together, and put it down close
in a pot. When you use it, roll it up with as much beaten egg as will
make the sausages roll smooth; let what you fry them in be hot before
you put them into the pan; roll them about, and when they are thoroughly
hot, and of a fine light brown colour, they are done. By warming a
little of the meat in a spoon when you are making it, you will then
taste if it is seasoned enough.
_Oxford Sausages._
Take the best part of a leg of veal and of a leg of pork, of each three
pounds; skin it well, and cut it into small dice. Take three pounds of
the best beef suet (the proportion of which you may increase or diminish
according to your taste,) skin it well; add a little sage, and chop it
all together as fine as forcemeat. When chopped, put in six or seven
eggs and a quarter of a pound of cold water, and season to your liking
with pepper and salt. Work it up as if you were kneading dough for
bread; roll it out in the form of sausages, and let the pan you fry them
in be hot, with a bit of butter in it.
_Sausages for Scotch collops._
Take beef suet and some veal, with a little winter savory, sage, thyme,
and some grated nutmeg, beaten cloves, mace, and a little salt and
pepper. Let these be well beaten together; then add two eggs beat, and
heat all together. Roll them up in grated bread, fry, and send them up.
_Veal Sausages._
Take half a pound of the lean of a leg of veal; cut it in small pieces,
and beat it very fine in a stone mortar, picking out all the little
strings. Shred one pound and half of beef-suet very small; season it
with pepper, salt, cloves, and mace, but twice as much mace as cloves,
some sage, thyme, and sweet marjoram, according to your palate. Mix all
these well with the yolks of twelve eggs; roll them to your fancy, and
fry them in lard.
_Sausages without skins._
Take a pound and quarter of the lean of a leg of veal and a pound and
quarter of the lean of a hind loin of pork; pick the meat from the skins
before you weigh it; then take two pounds and half of fresh beef-suet
picked clean from the skins, and an ounce and half of red sage leaves,
picked from the stalks; wash and mince them as fine as possible; put
them to the meat and suet, and mince as fine as you can. Add to it two
ounces of white salt and half an ounce of pepper. Pare all the crust
from a stale penny French roll, and soak the crumb in water till it is
wet through; put it into a clean napkin, and squeeze out all the water.
Put the bread to the meat, with four new-laid eggs beaten; then with
your hands work all these things together, and put them into a clean
earthen pan, pressed down close. They will keep good for a week. When
you use this meat, divide a pound into eighteen parts; flour your hands
a little, and roll it up into pretty thick sausages, and fry them in
sweet butter; a little frying will do.
_Spinach, the best mode of dressing._
Boil the spinach, squeeze the water from it completely, chop it a
little; then put it and a piece of butter in a stewpan with salt and a
very little nutmeg; turn it over a brisk fire to dry the remaining
water. Then add a little flour; mix it well, wet it with a little good
broth, and let it simmer for some time, turning it now and then to
prevent burning.
To dress it _maigre_, put cream instead of broth, and an onion with a
clove stuck in it, which you take out when you serve the spinach.
Garnish with fried bread. Observe that if you leave water in it, the
spinach cannot ever be good.
_Another way._
Clean it well, and throw it into fresh water; then squeeze and drain it
quite dry. Chop it extremely small, and put it into a pan with cream,
fresh butter, salt, and a very small quantity of pepper and nutmeg: add
an onion with two cloves stuck in it, and serve it up very hot, with
fried bread sippets of triangular shape round the dish.
_Spinach, to stew._
Pick the spinach very carefully; put it into a pan of water; boil it in
a large vessel with a good deal of salt to preserve the green colour,
and press it down frequently that it may be done equally. When boiled
enough to squeeze easily, drain it from the water, and throw it into
cold water. When quite cold, make it into balls, and squeeze it well.
Then spread it on a table and chop it very fine; put a good piece of
butter in a stewpan, and lay the spinach over the butter. Let it dry
over a slow fire, and add a little flour; moisten with half a pint of
beef jelly and a very little warm water: add a little cayenne pepper.
This spinach should be very like thick melted butter, and as fine and
smooth as possible.
_Another way._
Take some fine spinach, pick and wash it extremely clean. When well
boiled, put it into cold water, and squeeze it in a cloth very dry; chop
it very small; put it in a stewpan with a piece of butter and half a
pint of good cream; stir it well over the fire, that it may not oil; and
put in a little more cream just as you are going to dish it.
_Sweetbreads, ragout of._
Wash your sweetbreads; put them into boiling water, and, after blanching
them, throw them into cold water; dry them with a linen cloth; and put
them in a saucepan over the fire with salt, pepper, melted bacon, and a
faggot of sweet-herbs. Shake them together, and put some good gravy to
moisten them; simmer over the fire, and thicken to your liking.
_Another._
Take sweetbreads and lamb's fry, and parboil them, cutting them into
slices, and cocks'-combs sliced and blanched, and season them with
pepper and salt, and other spices; fry them in a little lard; drain and
toss them in good gravy, with two shalots, a bunch of sweet-herbs,
mushrooms, and truffles. Thicken it with a glass of claret; garnish with
red beet root.
_Savoury Toasts, to relish Wine._
Cut six or seven pieces of bread about the size of two fingers, and fry
them in butter till they are of a good colour; cut as many slices of ham
of the same size, and put them into a stewpan over a slow fire, for an
hour; when they are done take them out, and stir into the stewpan a
little flour; when of a good colour moisten it with some broth, without
salt; then skim off the fat, and strain the sauce through a sieve. Dish
the ham upon the fried bread, and pour the sauce over.
_Another._
Rasp some crumb of bread; put it over the fire in butter; put over it a
minced veal kidney, with its fat, parsley, scallions, a shalot, cayenne
pepper and salt, mixed with the whites and yolks of four eggs beat: put
this forcemeat on fried toasts of bread, covering the whole with grated
bread, and passing the salamander over it. Serve it with a clear beef
gravy sauce under it.
_Tomata to eat with roast meat._
Cover the bottom of a flat saucepan with the tomatas, that they may lie
one upon another; add two or three spoonfuls of water, a little salt and
pepper, to your taste; cover the pan, and stew them; in six or seven
minutes turn them, and let them stew till they are soft. Send them up
with their liquor.
_Tongues, to cure._ No. 1.
Take two fine bullocks' tongues; wash them well in spring water; dry
them thoroughly with a cloth, and salt them with common salt, a quarter
of a pound of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of treacle, and a quarter
of a pound of gunpowder. Let them lie in this pickle for a month; turn
and rub them every day; then take them out and dry them with a cloth;
rub a little gunpowder over them, and hang them up for a month, when
they will be fit to eat, previously soaking a few hours as customary.
_Tongues, to cure._ No. 2.
One pound of bay salt, half a pound of saltpetre, two ounces of sal
prunella, two pounds of coarse sugar; make your brine strong enough with
common salt to float an egg. The quantity of water is seven quarts, boil
all together, and scum it well for half an hour. When cold, put the
tongues in, and wash them in warm water before dressing. For table be
sure never to let them boil, but simmer slowly for four or five hours.
_Tongues, to cure._ No. 3.
Take two fine neats' tongues; cut off the roots, and cut a nick in the
under side; wash them clean, and dry with a cloth. Rub them with common
salt, and lay them on a board all night. Next day take two ounces of bay
salt, one of sal prunella, and a handful of juniper-berries, all bruised
fine; mix them with a quarter of a pound of coarse sugar and one pound
of common salt. Rub the tongues well with this mixture; lay them in a
long pan, and turn and rub them daily for a fortnight. Take them out of
the pickle, and either dry or dress them.
_Tongues, to cure._ No. 4.
Mix some well bruised bay salt, and a little saltpetre, with common
salt, and with a linen cloth rub the tongues and salt them, most
particularly the roots; and as the brine consumes put some more, till
the tongues are hard and stiff. When they are salted, roll them up, and
dry them in bran.
_Tongues, to cure._ No. 5.
Have the roots well cleansed from the moisture, and with warm water wash
and open the porous parts, that the salt may penetrate, and dry them
well. Cover them for a week with a pickle made of common salt, and bay
salt well boiled in it; then rub them with saltpetre, and to make them
of a good red colour you must take them out, and rub and salt them well
so that the salt penetrates, pressing them down hard with a board that,
when they are put to dry, they may keep their due proportion. The usual
way of drying them is with burnt sawdust, which, with the salt, gives
the dusky colour that appears on the outside before they are boiled.
_Tongues, to cure._ No. 6.
Well rub into the tongue two ounces of saltpetre, a pound of common
salt, and a quarter of a pound of treacle; and baste every day for three
weeks.
_Tongue, to smoke._
Wipe the tongue dry, when taken out of the pickle; glaze it over with a
brush dipped in pyroligneous acid, and hang it up in the kitchen.
_Tongue, to bake._
Season your tongues with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; lard them with large
lardoons, and have them steeped all night in vinegar, claret, and
ginger. Season again with whole pepper, sliced nutmeg, whole cloves, and
salt. Bake them in an earthen pan; serve them up on sippets, and lay
your spice over them, with slices of lemon and some sausages.
_Tongue, to boil._
Put a good quantity of hay with your tongues, tying them up in a cloth,
or else in hay. Boil them till they are tender and of a good colour, and
they will eat short and mellow.
_Tongue, to pot._
Prick the tongues with a skewer, and salt them with bay-salt and
saltpetre, to make them red. Boil them till they will just peel; season
with mace and a little pepper, to your liking; bake them in a pot well
covered with butter, and they will keep as long as any potted meat.
_Tongue and Udder, to roast._
Have the tongue and udder boiled and blanched, the tongue being salted
with saltpetre; lard them with the whole length of large lardoons, and
then roast them on a spit, basting them with butter: when roasted, dress
them with grated bread and flour, and serve up with gravy, currant-jelly
by itself, and slices of lemon.
_Sheep's Tongue, or any other, with Oysters._
Boil six tongues in salt and water till they are sufficiently tender to
peel. Slice them thin, and with a quart of large oysters put them in a
dish, with some whole spice and a little claret, and let them stew
together. Then put in some butter, and three yolks of eggs well beaten.
Shake them all well together, and put some sippets and lay your tongues
upon them.
_Tripe, to dress._
Take of the finest tripe, and, when properly trimmed, cut it in pieces
about four inches square; put it in a stewpan, with as much white wine
as will almost cover it: slice in three or four race of ginger, quarter
in a nutmeg, put in a good deal of salt, a bundle of herbs, rosemary,
thyme, sweet marjoram, and onion. When this has stewed gently a good
while, take out a pint of the clearest liquor, free from fat or dross,
and dissolve in it some anchovies finely picked. Take up the tripe, a
bit at a time, with a fork, and lay it in a warmed dish; pour on it the
liquor in which the anchovies were dissolved. Sprinkle on it a little
lemon juice. Those who are fond of onions or garlic may make either the
prevailing ingredient.
_Tripe, to fricassee._
Cut into slices the fat part of double tripe; dip them into eggs or
batter, and fry them to lay round the dish. Cut the other part into long
slips, and into dice, and toss them up with onion, chopped parsley,
melted butter, yolks of eggs, and a little vinegar. Season with pepper
and salt, and serve up.
_Truffles and Morels, to stew._
Well wash the truffles, cut them into slices, of the size and about the
thickness of half-a-crown; put them into a stewpan, with a pinch of salt
and cayenne pepper, and a little butter, to prevent their being burnt.
Let them stew ten minutes; have ready a good brown sauce of half a pint
of beef and the same of veal jelly, thickened with a little butter and
flour; add to it any trimmings of the truffles or morels, and boil them
also in it; put in one pinch of cayenne pepper. Strain the truffles or
morels from the butter they were first stewed in; throw them into the
sauce; warm the whole again, and serve hot.
_Veal, to boil._
Veal should be boiled well; a knuckle of six pounds will take very
nearly two hours. The neck must be also well boiled in a good deal of
water; if boiled in a cloth, it will be whiter. Serve it with tongue,
bacon, or pickled pork, greens of any sort, brocoli, and carrots, or
onion sauce, white sauce, oyster sauce, parsley and butter, or white
celery sauce.
_Veal, to collar._
Bone and wash a breast of veal; steep it in three waters, and dry it
with a cloth; season it with savoury spice, some slices of bacon, and
shred sweet-herbs; roll them in a collar of cloth, and boil it in salt
and water, with whole spice; skim it clean and take it up, and when cold
put it in the pickle.
_Another way._
Take the meat of a breast of veal; make a stuffing of beef-suet, crumb
of bread, lemon peel, parsley, pepper, and salt, mixed up with two eggs;
lay it over the meat, and roll it up. Boil an hour and a half, and send
it to table with oyster sauce.
_Veal, to roast._
Veal will take a quarter of an hour to a pound: paper the fat of the
loin and fillet; stuff the fillet and shoulder with the following
ingredients: a quarter of a pound of suet, chopped fine, parsley, and
sweet-herbs chopped, grated bread, lemon-peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and
yolk of egg; butter may supply the want of suet. Roast the breast with
the caul on it till almost done; take it off, flour and baste it. Veal
requires to be more done than beef. For sauce use salad pickles,
brocoli, cucumbers, raw or stewed, French beans, peas, cauliflower,
celery, raw or stewed.
_Veal, roasted, ragout of._
Cut slices of veal about the size of two fingers and at least as long as
three; beat them with a cleaver till they are no thicker than a
crown-piece; put upon every slice some stuffing made with beef-suet,
ham, a little thyme, parsley, scallions, and a shalot. When the whole is
minced, add the yolks of two eggs, half a table-spoonful of brandy,
salt, and pepper; spread it on the veal and roll it. Cover each piece
with a thin slice of bacon, and tie it carefully. Then put them on a
small delicate spit covered with paper; and, when they are done, take
off the paper carefully, grate bread over them, and brown them at a
clear fire. Serve them with a gravy sauce.
_Veal, to stew._
Cut the veal into small pieces; season with an onion, some salt and
pepper, mace, lemon-peel, and two or three shalots; let them stew in
water, with a little butter, or port wine, if you like. When enough
done, put in some yolks of eggs beaten, and boil them quick. Dish and
serve them up.
_Veal, with Rice, to stew._
Boil half a pound of rice in three quarts of water in a small pan with
some good broth, about a pint, and slices of ham at the bottom, and two
good onions. When it is almost done, spread it, about twice the
thickness of a crown-piece, over a silver or delft dish in which it is
to be served [it must be a dish capable of bearing the fire]. Lay slices
of veal and ham alternately--the veal having already been dressed brown.
Cover the meat with rice in such a manner that it cannot be seen; put
your dish upon a hot stove; brown the rice with a salamander; drain off
the fat that may be in the dish, and serve it dry, or, if it is
preferred, with any of the good sauces, for which there are directions,
poured under it.
_Veal served in paper._
Cut some slices of veal from the fillet, about an inch thick, in a small
square, about the size of a small fricandeau; make a box of paper to fit
neatly; rub the outside with butter, and put in your meat, with sweet
oil or butter, parsley, scallions, shalots, and mushrooms, all stewed
very fine, salt, and whole pepper. Set it upon the gridiron, with a
sheet of oiled paper under it, and let it do by a very slow fire, lest
the paper burn. When the meat is done on one side turn it on the other.
Serve it in the box, having put over it very gently a dash of vinegar.
_Bombarded Veal._
Take a piece of a long square of bacon; cut it in thin slices; do the
same with veal, and lay the slices on your bacon. Having made a piece of
good forcemeat, spread it thin on your veal, having previously seasoned
the latter with pepper and salt. Roll these up one by one; spit them on
a lark spit, quite even; wash them over with eggs and crumbs of bread;
then roast them, and serve up with a good ragout.
_Veal Balls._
Take two pounds of veal; pick out the skin and bones; mix it well with
the crust of a French roll, soaked in hot milk, half a pound of veal
suet, two yolks of eggs, onion, and chopped parsley; season with pepper
and salt. Roll the balls in raspings; fry them of a gold colour: boil
the bones and the bits of skin to make the gravy for them.
_Breast of Veal._
To fricassee it like fowls, parboil it; turn it a few times over the
fire with a bit of butter, a bunch of parsley, scallions, some
mushrooms, truffles, and morels. Shake in a little flour; moisten with
some good stock broth; and when the whole is done and skimmed, thicken
it with the yolks of three eggs beat with some milk; and, before it is
served, add a very little lemon juice.
_Breast of Veal, with Cabbage and Bacon._
Cut the breast of veal in pieces, and parboil it; parboil also a cabbage
and a bit of streaked bacon, cut in slices, leaving the rind to it. Tie
each separately with packthread, and let them stew together with good
broth; no salt or pepper, on account of the bacon. When the whole is
done, take out the meat and cabbage, and put them into the terrine you
serve to table. Take the fat off the broth, put in a little cullis, and
reduce the sauce over the stove. When of a proper thickness pour it over
the meat, and serve up.
_Breast of Veal en fricandeau._
Lard your veal, and take a ragout of asparagus, (for which see Ragouts,)
and lay your veal, larded or glazed, upon the ragout. The same may be
done with a ragout of peas.
_Breast of Veal, glazed brown._
Take a breast of veal, cut in pieces, or whole if you prefer it. Stir a
bit of butter and a spoonful of flour over the fire, and, when it is of
a good colour, put in a pint of broth, and afterwards the veal. Stew it
over a slow fire, and season with pepper and salt, a bunch of parsley,
scallions, cloves, thyme, laurel, basil, and half a spoonful of vinegar.
When the meat is done and well glazed, skim the sauce well, and serve
it round it.
_Breast of Veal, to stew with Peas._
Cut the nicest part of the breast of veal, with the sweetbread; roast it
a little brown; take a little bit of the meat that is cut off the ends,
and fry it with butter, salt, pepper, and flour; take a little hot water
just to rinse out the gravy that adheres to the frying-pan, and put it
into a stewpan, with two quarts of hot water, a bundle of parsley,
thyme, and marjoram, a bit of onion or shalot, plenty of lemon-peel, and
a pint of old green peas, the more mealy the better. Let it stew two or
three hours, then rub it through a sieve with a spoon; it should be all
nice and thick; then put it again in the stewpan with the meat, having
ready some hot water to add to the gravy in case it should be wanted. A
thick breast will take two hours, and must be turned every now and then.
Boil about as many nice young peas as would make a dish, the same as for
eating; put them in about ten minutes before you take it up, skimming
all the fat nicely off; and season it at the same time with salt and
cayenne to your taste.
_Another way._
Cut your veal into pieces, about three inches long; fry it delicately;
mix a little flour with some beef broth, with an onion and two cloves;
stew this some time, strain it, add three pints or two quarts of peas,
or heads of asparagus, cut like peas. Put in the meat; let it stew
gently; add pepper and salt.
_Breast of Veal ragout._
Bone and cut out a large square piece of the breast of veal; cut the
rest into small pieces, and brown it in butter, stewing it in your
ragout for made dishes; thicken it with brown butter, and put the ragout
in the dish. Lay diced lemon, sweetbreads, sippets, and bacon, fried in
batter of eggs; then lay on the square piece. Garnish with sliced
oranges.
_Veal Collops, with Oysters._
Cut thin slices out of a leg of veal, as many as will make a dish,
according to the number of your company. Lard one quarter of them, and
fry them in butter; take them out of the pan and keep them warm. Clean
the pan, and put into it half a pint of oysters, with their liquor, and
some strong broth, one or two shalots, a glass of white wine, two or
three anchovies minced, and some grated nutmeg; let these have a boil
up, and thicken with five eggs and a piece of butter. Put in your
collops, and shake them together till the sauce is tolerably thick. Set
them on the stove again to stew a little; then serve up.
_Veal Collops, with white sauce._
Cut veal that has been already roasted into neat small pieces, round or
square; season them with a little pepper and salt; pass them quick of a
pale colour in a bit of butter of the size of a walnut; add the yolks of
five eggs, and half a pint of cream, with a very small onion or two,
previously boiled; toss them up quick, and serve hot.
_Veal Cutlets, to dress._
Cut the veal steaks thin; hack and season them with pepper, salt, and
sweet-herbs. Wash them over with melted butter, and wrap white paper
buttered over them. Roast or bake them; and, when done, take off the
paper, and serve them with good gravy and Seville orange-juice squeezed
on.
_Another way._
Take the best end of a neck of veal and cut your cutlets; four ribs will
make eight cutlets. Beat them out very thin, and trim them round. Take
chopped parsley, thyme, shalots, and mushrooms, pass them over the fire,
add a little juice of lemon, lemon-peel, and grated nutmeg. Dip in the
cutlets, crumb them, and boil them over a gentle fire. Save what you
leave from dipping them in, put some brown sauce to it, and put it under
them when going to table, first taking care to remove the grease from
it. Lamb cutlets are done the same way.
_Veal Cutlets, larded._
Cut a neck of veal into bones; lard one side, and fry them off quick.
Thicken a piece of butter, of the size of a large nut, with a little
flour, and whole onion. Put in as much good gravy as will just cover
them, and a few mushrooms and forcemeat balls. Stove them tender; skim
off all grease; squeeze in half a lemon, and serve them up.
_Fillet of Veal, to farce or roast._
Mince some beef suet very small, with some sweet marjoram, winter
savory, and thyme; season with salt, cloves, and mace, well beaten; put
in grated bread; mix them all together with the yolk of an egg; make
small holes in the veal, and stuff it very thick with these. Put it on
the spit and roast it well. Let the sauce consist of butter, gravy, and
juice of lemon, very thick. Dish the veal, and pour the sauce over it,
with slices of lemon laid round the dish.
_Fillet of Veal, to boil._
Cut out the bone of a fillet of veal; put it into good milk and water
for a little while: make some forcemeat with boiled clary, raw carrots,
beef suet, grated bread, sweet-herbs, and a good quantity of shrimps,
nutmeg, and mace, the yolks of three eggs boiled hard, some pepper and
salt, and two raw eggs; roll it up in butter, and stuff the veal with
it. Boil the veal in a cloth for two hours, and scald four or five
cucumbers, in order to take out the pulp the more easily. This done,
fill them with forcemeat, and stew them in a little thin gravy. For
sauce take strong white gravy, thickened with butter, a very little
flour, nutmeg, mace, and lemon-peel, three anchovies dissolved in
lemon-juice, some good cream, the yolk of an egg beaten, and a glass of
white wine. Serve with the cucumbers.
_Half a Fillet of Veal, to stew._
Take a stewpan large enough for the piece of veal, put in some butter,
and fry it till it is firm, and of a fine brown colour all round; put in
two carrots, two large onions, whole, half a pound of lean bacon, a
bunch of thyme and of parsley, a pinch of cayenne pepper and of salt:
add a cupful of broth, and let the whole stew over a very slow fire for
one hour, or according to the size of your piece of veal, until
thoroughly done. Have ready a pint of jelly soup, in which stew a
table-spoonful of mustard and the same of truffles cut in small pieces;
add one ounce of butter and a dessert spoonful of flour to thicken;
unite it well together; put in a glass of white wine, and boil. When
ready to serve, pour it over the veal; let there be sauce sufficient to
fill the dish; the veal must be strained from the vegetables, and great
care taken that the sauce is well passed through the sieve, to keep it
clear from grease.
_Knuckle of Veal, white._
Boil a knuckle of veal in a little water kept close from the air, with
six onions and a little whole pepper, till tender. The sauce to be
poured over it, when dished in a little of its own liquor--two or three
anchovies, a little mace, half a pint of cream, and the yolk of an egg,
thickened with a little flour.
_Knuckle of Veal ragout._
Cut the veal into slices half an inch thick; pepper, salt, and flour
them; fry them of a light brown; put the trimmings, with the bone
broken, an onion sliced, celery, a bunch of sweet-herbs; pour warm water
to cover them about an inch. Stew gently for two hours; strain it, and
thicken with flour and butter, a spoonful of ketchup, a glass of wine,
and the juice of half a lemon. Give it a boil, strain into a clean
saucepan, put in the meat, and make it hot.
_Leg of Veal and Bacon, to boil._
Lard the veal with bacon and lemon-peel; boil it with a piece of bacon,
cut in slices; put the veal into a dish, and lay the bacon round it.
Serve it up with green sauce made thus: beat two or more handfuls of
sorrel in a mortar, with two pippins quartered, and put vinegar and
sugar to it.
_Loin of Veal, to roast._
Roast, and baste with butter; set a dish under your veal, with vinegar,
a few sage leaves, and a little rosemary and thyme. Let the gravy drop
on these, and, when the veal is roasted, let the herbs and gravy boil
once or twice on the fire: serve it under the veal.
_Loin of Veal, to roast with herbs._
Lard the fillet of a loin of veal; put it into an earthen pan; steep it
three hours with parsley, scallions, a little fennel, mushrooms, a
laurel-leaf, thyme, basil, and two shalots, the whole shred very fine,
salt, whole pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and a little sweet oil. When
it has taken the flavour of the herbs, put it upon the spit, with all
its seasoning, wrapt in two sheets of white paper well buttered; tie it
carefully so as to prevent the herbs falling out, and roast it at a very
slow fire. When it is done take off the paper, and with a knife pick off
all the bits of herbs that stick to the meat and paper, and put them
into a stewpan, with a little gravy, two spoonfuls of verjuice, salt,
whole pepper, and a bit of butter, about as big as a walnut, rolled in
flour. Before you thicken the sauce, melt a little butter; mix it with
the yolk of an egg, and rub the outside of the veal, which should then
be covered with grated bread, and browned with a salamander. Serve it up
with a good sauce under, but not poured over so as to disturb the meat.
_Loin of Veal, fricassee of._
Well roast a loin of veal, and let it stand till cold. Cut it into
slices; in a saucepan over the stove melt some butter, with a little
flour, shred parsley, and chives. Turn the stewpan a little for a minute
or so, and pepper and salt the veal. Put it again into the pan, and give
it three or four turns over the stove with a little broth, and boil it
a little: then put three or four yolks of eggs beaten up to a cream, and
some parsley shred, to thicken it, always keeping it stirred over the
fire till of sufficient thickness; then serve it up.
_Loin of Veal Bechamel._
When the veal is nicely roasted, cut out part of the fillet down the
back; cut it in thin slices, and put some white sauce to what you have
cut out. Season it with the juice of lemon and a little pepper and salt;
put it into the veal, and cover the top with crumbs of bread that has
been browned, or salamander it over with crumbs, or leave the skin of
the veal so that you can turn it over when the seasoning part is put in.
_Neck of Veal, stewed with Celery._
Take the best end of a neck, put it into a stewpan with beef broth,
salt, whole pepper, and two cloves, tied in a bit of muslin, an onion,
and a piece of lemon-peel. Add a little cream and flour mixed, some
celery ready boiled, and cut into lengths; and boil it up.
_Veal Olives._ No. 1.
are done the same way as the beef olives, only cut off a fillet of veal,
fried of a fine brown. The same sauce is used as for beef, and, if you
like, small bits of curled bacon may be laid in the dish. Garnish with
lemon and parsley.
_Veal Olives._ No. 2.
Wash eight or ten Scots collops over with egg batter; season and lay
over a little forcemeat; roll them up and roast them; make a good ragout
for them; garnish with sliced orange.
_Veal Olives._ No. 3.
Take a good fillet of veal, and cut large collops, not too thin, and
hack them well; wash them over with the yolk of an egg; then spread on a
good layer of forcemeat, made of veal pretty well seasoned. Roll them
up, and wash them with egg; lard them over with fat bacon, tie them
round, if you roast them; but, if to be baked, you need only wash the
bacon over with egg. Garnish with slices of lemon, and for sauce take
thick butter and good gravy, with a piece of lemon.
_Veal Olives._ No. 4.
Lay over your forcemeat; first lard your collops, and lay a row of large
oysters; and then roll them up, and roast or bake them. Make a ragout
of oysters, sweetbreads fried, a few morels and mushrooms, and lay in
the bottom of your dish, and garnish with fried oysters and grated
bread.
_Veal Rumps._
Take three veal rumps; parboil and put them into a little pot, with some
broth, a bunch of parsley, scallions, a clove of garlic, two shalots, a
laurel leaf, thyme, basil, two cloves, salt, pepper, an onion, a carrot,
and a parsnip: let them boil till they are thoroughly done, and the
sauce is very nearly consumed. Take them out, let them cool, and strain
the sauce through a rather coarse sieve, that none of the fat may
remain. Put it into a stewpan, with the yolks of three eggs beat up, and
a little flour, and thicken it over the fire. Then dip your veal rumps
into it, and cover them with grated bread; put them upon a dish, and
brown them with a salamander. Serve them with sour sauce, for which see
the part that treats of Sauces.
_Shoulder of Veal, to stew._
Put it in an earthen pan, with a gill of water, two spoonfuls of
vinegar, salt, whole pepper, parsley and scallions, two cloves of
garlic, a bay leaf, two onions, two heads of celery, three cloves, and a
bit of butter. Cover the pan close, and close the edges with flour and
water. Stew it in an oven three hours; then skim and strain the sauce,
and serve it over the veal.
_Veal Steaks._
Cut a neck of veal into steaks, and beat them on both sides: beat up an
egg, and with a feather wet your steaks on both sides. Add some parsley,
thyme, and a little marjoram, cut small, and seasoned with pepper and
salt. Sprinkle crumbs of bread on both sides of the steaks, and put them
up quite tight and close into paper which has been rubbed with butter.
They may be either broiled or baked in a pan.
_Veal Sweetbreads, to fry._
Cut each of your sweetbreads in three or four pieces and blanch them:
put them for two hours in a marinade made with lemon-juice, salt,
pepper, cloves, a bay leaf, and an onion sliced. Take the sweetbreads
out of the marinade, and dry them with a cloth; dip them in beaten yolk
of eggs, with crumbs of bread; fry them in lard till they are brown;
drain them; fry some parsley, and put it in the middle of the dish, and
serve them.
_Veal Sweetbreads, to roast._
Lard your sweetbreads with small lardoons of bacon, and put them on a
skewer; fasten them to the spit and roast them brown. Put some good
gravy into a dish; lay in the sweetbreads, and serve them very hot. You
ought to set your sweetbreads and spit them; then egg and bread them, or
they will not be brown.
_Vegetables, to stew._
Cut some onions, celery, turnips, and carrots, into small squares, like
dice, but not too small; stew them with a bunch of thyme in a little
broth and butter; fry them till they are of a fine brown colour; turn
them with a fork, till quite soft; if they are not done enough, put a
little flour from the dredging-box to brown them; skim the sauce well,
and pass it through a sieve; add a little cayenne pepper and salt; put
the vegetables in, and serve them up.
_Haunch of Venison, to roast._ No. 1.
Butter and sprinkle your fat with salt; lay a sheet of paper over it;
roll a thin sheet of paste and again another sheet of paper over the
paste, and with a packthread tie and spit it. Baste the sheet of paper
with butter, and let the venison roast till done enough. Be careful how
you take off the papers and paste, basting it with some butter during
that time, and dredge up: then let it turn round some time to give the
fat a colour. The object of pasting is to save the fat. Have
currant-jelly with it, and serve it up.
_Haunch of Venison, to roast._ No. 2.
Let your haunch be well larded with thick bacon; seasoning it with fine
spices, parsley, sweet-herbs, cut small, pepper, and salt. Pickle it
with vinegar, onions, salt, pepper, parsley, sweet basil, thyme, and
bay-leaves: and, when pickled enough, spit it, and baste it with the
pickle. When roasted, dish it up with vinegar, pepper, and thick sauce.
_Haunch of Venison, to roast._ No. 3.
Have the haunch well and finely larded with bacon, and put paper round
it: roast and serve it up with sauce under it, made of good cullis or
broth, gravy of ham, capers, anchovies, salt, pepper, and vinegar.
_Venison, to boil._
Have your venison a little salted, and boil it in water. Meanwhile boil
six cauliflowers in milk and water; and put them into a large pipkin
with drawn butter; keep them warm, and put in six handfuls of washed
spinach, boiled in strong broth; pour off the broth, and put some drawn
butter to it; lay some sippets in the dish, and lay your spinach round
the sides; have the venison laid in the middle, with the cauliflower
over it; pour your butter also over, and garnish with barberries and
minced parsley.
_Haunch of Venison, to broil._
Take half a haunch, and cut it into slices of about half an inch thick;
broil and salt them over a brisk fire, and, when pretty well soaked,
bread and serve them up with gravy: do the same with the chine.
_Venison, to recover when tainted._
Boil bay salt, ale, and vinegar together, and make a strong brine; skim
it, and let it stand till cool, and steep the venison for a whole day.
Drain and press it dry: parboil, and season it with pepper and salt.
_Another way._
Tie your venison up in a clean cloth; put it in the earth for a whole
day, and the scent will be gone.
_Red Deer Venison, to pot._
Let the venison be well boned and cut into pieces about an inch thick,
and round, of the diameter of your pot. Season with pepper and salt,
something higher than you would pasty, and afterwards put it into your
pots, adding half a quarter of butter, and two sliced nutmegs, cloves
and mace about the same quantity of each, but rather less of the cloves.
Then put into your pots lean and fat, so that there may be fat and lean
mixed, until the pots are so nearly filled as to admit only a pint of
butter more to be put into each. Make a paste of rye-flour, and stop
your pots close on the top. Have your oven heated as you would for a
pasty; put your pots in, and let them remain as long as for pasty; draw
them out, and let them stand half an hour; afterwards unstop them, and
turn the pots upside down; you may remove the contents, if you like,
into smaller pots; in which case take off all the butter, letting the
gravy remain, and using the butter for the fresh pots; let them remain
all night; the next day fill them with fresh butter. To make a pie of
the same, proceed in the same way with the venison, only do not season
it so high; but put in a liberal allowance of butter.
_Venison, excellent substitute for._
Skin a loin of mutton; put to it a quarter of a pint of port wine, half
a pint of spring water, two spoonfuls of vinegar, an onion with three
cloves, a small bunch of thyme and parsley, a little pepper and salt, to
your taste. Stew them with the mutton very slowly for two hours and a
half; baste it with the liquor very often; skim off the fat, and send
the gravy in the dish with the mutton. Sauce--the same as for venison.
_Water Cresses, to stew._
When the cresses are nicely picked and well washed, put them into a
stewpan with a little butter under them. Let them stew on a clear fire
until almost done; then rub them through a sieve; put them again into a
pan, with a dust of flour, a little salt, and a spoonful of good cream:
give it a boil, and dish it up with sippets. The cream may be omitted,
and the cresses may be boiled in salt and water before they are rubbed
through the sieve, and afterwards stewed, but it takes the strength out,
therefore it is best not to boil them first.