WHAT SHALL WE HAVE FOR DINNER?

I think I must be personally known to most of the readers of the

"Atlantic." I see them wherever I go, and they see me. Beneath a

shelter-tent by the Rapidan, in a striped railroad-station in Bavaria,

at the counter of Trübner's bookstore in London, and at Cordaville, in

Worcester County, Massachusetts, as we waited for the freight to get out

of the way, I have read the "Atlantic" over their shoulders, or they

over mine. The same thing has happened at six hundred and thirty-two

other improbable places. More than this, however, my words and works in

the great science of Domestic Economy have travelled everywhere before

me, not simply like the Connecticut of the poet,

"Bringing shad to South Hadley, and pleasure to man,"[35]

but extending all over the civilized world. Not that I am the author of

the clothes-wringing machine, or of the spring clothes-pin,--my

influence has been more subtile. I have propounded great central axioms

in housekeeping and the other economies, which have rushed over the

world with the inevitable momentum of truth. It was I, for instance, who

first discovered and proclaimed the great governing fact that the butter

of a family costs more than its bread. It was I who first announced that

you cannot economize in the quality of your paper. I am the discoverer

of the formula that a family consumes as many barrels of flour in a year

as it has adult members, reducing children to adults by the rule of

three. The morning after our marriage I raised the window-shade, so that

the rising sun of that auspicious day should shine full upon our

parlor-Brussels. I said to Lois, "Let us never be slaves to our

carpets!" The angel smiled assent; and on the wings of that smile my

whisper fluttered over the earth. It brooded in a thousand homes else

miserable. Light was where before was chaos. Sunshine drove scrofula

from ten thousand quivering frames, and millions of infant lips would

this day raise Lois's name and mine in their Kindergarten songs, did

they only know who were their benefactors.

Standing thus in the centre of the sphere of the domestic economies, I

have, of course, read with passionate interest the "House and Home

Papers" in the "Atlantic." It is I, as I am proud to confess, who have,

violated all copyright, have had them reprinted, as Tract No. 2237 of

the American Tract Society, No. 63 of the American Tract Society of

Boston, and No. 445 of the issues of the Sanitary Commission, and am now

about to introduce them surreptitiously into the bureaus of these

charities, so that the colporteurs, of every stripe, may at last be

certain that they are conferring the first of benefits upon their

homeless fellow-creatures. It is I who every night toil through long

streets that I may slide these little tracts, messengers of blessing,

under the front-doors of wretched friends, who are dying without homes

in the gilded miseries of their bowling-alley parlors. Where they have

introduced the patent weather-strip, I place the tract on the upper

door-step, with a brick-bat, which keeps it from blowing away. But I

observe that it is no part of the plan of those charming papers, more

than it was of the "Novum Organon" or of the "Principia," to descend

into the details of the economies. I suppose that the author left all

that to the "Domestic Economy" of her excellent sister, and, as far as

the details of practice go, well she might. But between that practical

detail by which one sister cooks to-day the dinners on a million tables,

and the æsthetic, moral, and religious considerations by which the other

sister elevates the life of the million homes in whose dining-rooms

those tables stand, there is room for a brief exposition of the

principles on which those dinners are to be selected.

It is that exposition which, as I sit superior, I am to give, _ex

cathedra_, after this long preface, now.

I shall illustrate the necessity of this exposition by an introduction

to follow the preface, after the manner of the Germans, before we arrive

at the substance of our work, which will be itself comprised in its

first chapter. This introduction will consist of two illustrations. The

first relates to the planting of potatoes. When I inherited my ancestral

estate, known as "Crusoe's Well," I resolved to devote it to potatoes

for the first summer. I summoned my vassals, and we fenced it. I bought

dung and manured it. I hired ploughmen and oxen, and they ploughed it. I

made a covenant with a Kelt, who became, _quoad hoc_, my slave, and gave

to him money, with which I directed him to buy seed-potatoes and plant

it.

The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 14, No. 83, September, 1864 A Magazine of Literature, Art, and Politics · 第 28 / 44 题