Letter No. XIX
_To his Father, from Alameda, dated 30th April 1813_
More lectures to his father for showing his letters to people—Good
winter quarters—Five months without seeing the face of a
Frenchman—Hopes to see the Pyrenees before September—Starting on
target practice with his men.
Letter No. XX
_From Lieutenant Joseph Simmons to his Parents, from Alameda, dated 5th
May 1813_
Describes life in winter quarters—The regimental mess—Weekly balls to
the ladies—The retreat from Madrid.
_Postscript by George Simmons_
About to be reviewed by Lord Wellington—Expects to drive the French
out of Spain this campaign.
_Journal—1st May-30th August 1813_
The army formed into eight Divisions—The French army depleted to
obtain veterans for the campaign in Russia—The British army in the
highest order—Composition of the Light Division—General advance of the
army—The Horse Guards and Oxford Blues join—Cavalry skirmish near
Salamanca—The French retire—Advance resumed—The 10th Hussars execute
a brilliant charge near Morales—The French retire from Burgos—The
British army crosses the Ebro—Fight at San Millan—The Rifles "make
a sad example of _Johnny_"—Salt springs at Salinas—The battle of
Vitoria—Dispositions of the French—All three battalions of the Rifles
sharply engaged—The French driven _into_ the town, _through_ the
town, and _out of_ the town—A running fight for twenty miles—Bivouac
at nightfall—The pursuit renewed—Skirmish at Echarri Arinez—Skirmish
near La Cuenca—Splendid work by British Horse Artillery—The Rifle
Men capture the _last_ gun of the French army—Sad spectacle of
wounded French Artillerymen—Arrive in front of Pampeluna—The march to
intercept General Clausel, who crosses the Ebro and escapes—On fatigue
getting fuel—Rencontre with General Picton—"It's a d——d concern to
have to follow you"—General Alten to the rescue—A present of a skin of
wine—Blockade of Pamplona—Camp at the foot of the Pyrenees—Magnificent
scenery—The Rifles drive the French from the heights of Santa
Barbara—The Bidasoa and the town of Vera—The Pass of Vera—Soult
captures the passes of Roncesvalles and Yanzi, and the Light Division
has to fall back—The attempt to storm San Sebastian fails—Marshal
Soult retires—Forced march of the Light Division—The fights at the
bridge of Yanzi and at Echalar.
Letter No. XIX
Alameda, Spain, _30th April 1813_.
Dear Father—I send you a bill upon Ireland for twenty pounds English
money. You must separate it from this epistle, and give it into the
hands of any banker, who will be able directly to procure you the
money. I must, dear father, request that you will not in future show my
letters to the public. I find that the letter I wrote you respecting
the fight upon the Coa was read at the mess table of a Militia
regiment and exposed to every one who chose to read it. How the devil
it got there I cannot say. I can so far say that the officer is now
present with this regiment who heard it read. You have no idea what
material injury you may do me by such exposures.
I remember in this letter I said a great deal about my family concerns,
which it is very wrong to publish to the world. If the young officer
had been a quizzical fellow and thought of telling some tales to any
other officers, it would have produced amusement, and, why then,
what must have been the consequences? I should have instantly called
him out, and the result either to one or the other must have proved
serious. A soldier's honour is as sacred as a woman's virtue. I mention
this, hoping it will deter you from doing so again, as you can form no
idea what trifles lead to among soldiers.
Joe is going on remarkably well. He has had repeated attacks of ague
through this winter. He is, however, much better, and will, I hope,
stand the campaign well. I have provided him with a horse. He is very
well acquainted with the first duties of a soldier. He is very much
liked by the officers, which gives me much pleasure.
The army is in high health and spirits. In a few days we shall take the
field. I am heartily tired of this idle life. We have been five months
in snug winter quarters without seeing the face of a Frenchman—a thing
which has never happened before. It is expected that our Division will
be slipped at Burgos. If we are, I hope success may attend us. Those
employed will have smart work. However, bad as it may be, Badajoz, for
a desperate business can never be rivalled.
The campaign bids fair to be most brilliant, as we shall have little
more than equal numbers to contend against. I hope to see the Pyrenees
before September. The success of the noble Russians is wonderful. I
hope my dear mother is well. I thank her for her kind remembrances of
me. I hope while I live I shall merit her affections. Tell Ann in a
few years more I have no doubt to make her comfortable and happy. Her
fortune is at present hard, but she can look forward with confidence
to seeing better times. I am glad Charlie and Betsy are improving;
for God's sake, take care of Charlie's education. Military drawing
would be very useful. As soon as you have received the money, write.
I shall send the second bill next week, so if you get this bill, burn
the second after you receive the money. I must end my letter, as the
company are already mustering at my door for target practice, so I
shall pass the remainder of the day in proving the abilities of my men
in hitting a mark in order to do justice to our enemies when we meet
with them. I have had Joe very often at this work. Adieu,
Geo. Simmons,
Lt., 95th Regiment.
Letter No. XX
Alameda, _May 5th 1813_.
Dear Parents—Since our retreat from Madrid we have spent a very
pleasant and comfortable winter. The village that we have been in all
the winter is very small, the houses bad, and the inhabitants poor,
miserable creatures. They have a fire on the ground, which generally
smokes so intolerably that we frequently are obliged to go out of
the house. As soon as an officer gets into a house that is allotted
to him, he must build a chimney, as it has been very cold and rainy
this winter, particularly in this part of the country. When we got a
little settled in the village and found it was likely we should stop
some months in this place, we established a regimental mess. There we
had the best of things that this part of the country could produce; it
was a means of passing away the dreary winter nights pleasantly. We
usually gave a ball once a week to the ladies of the village, who did
us the honour to attend it. If you saw them they would astonish you.
They dress in short brown jackets, and petticoats of the same, very
coarse, figured with ridiculous patches of red cloth. These delicate
ladies feed so grossly and eat so much garlic, that it is enough to
suffocate a person being in the room with twenty or thirty of them. I
am only giving you a description of the women in the villages on this
mountainous frontier. In large towns there are beautiful women, and
something like the English (but not so fair), who dress splendidly in
black satin. We received a letter from Maud the other day. He is very
well. In his regiment they do not understand carrying on the war so
well as our officers. My brother George gives him sometimes a little
advice how to live. When I joined my regiment at Madrid I happened to
meet with my brother Maud before George. He told me he had had nothing
to eat for two or three days; it had rained all that time. I had just
received four days' rations. We went into an old house and cooked some
mutton chops and drank my rations of rum. His Colonel gave him leave to
go with me to find my brother George. As soon as we joined my brother,
he gave us a good dinner and plenty of wine and took great care of me.
My brother was well provided with blankets. I was then near dead with
starvation. I had marched three days with very little to eat, and it
was raining most of the time. He soon started the ague away from me,
but being obliged to ride with my regiment and continually raining,
brought on the ague again. Near the end of the retreat I was so bad
that I could hardly bear to sit upon my horse with dysentery and ague,
so that my brother had me, as well as his duty, to mind. If I had
fallen to the rear I should have been taken by the French. One day in
particular, when the enemy was firing at us very briskly, and having a
river to cross, I was so ill that I could not make the horse travel.
My brother returned to me and seized my horse by the bridle and forced
him through the river nearly up to the waist; at that time a cannon
shot struck the water as we passed. I had to lie out all that night
with only my brother's cloak over me. It rained most of the night. The
reason of not having more was on account of the baggage being sent to
the rear. We had nothing to eat but acorns for several days, as we
were passing through a large wood. We are provided with everything
for the ensuing campaign. We are all wishing to be on the move again.
Desire my love to my aunt, uncle, sisters, and brother.—I remain, your
affectionate son,
Joseph Simmons, Lieut., 95th Regt.
_Postscript, written across the Preceding by George Simmons_
I desired Joe to write this letter. I think you will find he has much
improved since he came under my tuition. As soon as you receive this
letter, if you have not had the first, which I sent a week previous
to this, you must present this bill for payment, observing the first
having miscarried. I should hope you have received the first bill; if
so, destroy this one. Lord Wellington, our illustrious chief, will
review us in a day or two, which he always does yearly, previous to
commencing the campaign. I hope we shall finish the campaign by driving
the French out of the country, and may our next year's fighting be
either in Germany or Italy. I do not want to see England till I am a
captain. Joe has grown much. He is rather delicate. If he does not
become stout I shall send him to our depôt in England for a year or
two. I hope he will be able to rough it with me, as I am convinced it
will ultimately be more to his advantage.
Joe is here telling you a story of escaping from being a prisoner.
There is a good deal of truth in it. However, I told him he should not
talk nonsense about me. He will know better as he grows older.
I often pleasure myself with the idea that if anything happens to
me, Joe will be a comfort to his family. I often talk to him upon
the subject. I got a number of silver forks and spoons. They are so
weighty, I shall be under the necessity of selling them. I bought them
after the sacking of Rodrigo and Badajoz for a trifle from one of our
men. I meant them for Ann. However, she shall lose nothing in the end.
I shall purchase some little thing more portable. God bless you.
G. S.
_Journal—1st May-30th August 1813_
Campaign of 1813
Five thousand British troops having arrived at Lisbon as a
reinforcement to the army, the Divisions were now formed into eight, as
follows:—
1st Division commanded by Lieutenant-General Hon. W. Stewart.
2nd " " " Lieutenant-General Sir Rowland Hill.
3rd " " " Lieutenant-General Sir Thomas Picton.
4th " " " Lieutenant-General Sir Lowry Cole.
5th " " " Lieutenant-General Sir James Leith.
6th " " " Lieutenant-General Sir Henry Clinton.
7th " " " Lieutenant-General Earl Dalhousie.
Light Division, Major-General Baron Charles Alten; the cavalry under
Sir Stapleton Cotton; the Portuguese under Marshal Beresford. Sir
Thomas Graham was made his second-in-command after the battle of
Salamanca. The 2nd Division was detached in Estremadura. Napoleon's
gigantic designs against Russia had caused the French armies in Spain
to contribute ten men per company from a number of regiments for the
purpose of having veteran soldiers mixed with the new levies. The
British and Portuguese armies were now fully equipped and in the
highest order. The Light Division was assembled and reviewed upon the
plains of Espeja by Lord Wellington, most of whom had seen several
campaigns, and few of them but what could boast of having been wounded
in their country's service, and who were also ready to receive more if
required.
[Sidenote: 1813 May 21st]
Part of the Light Division marched to the ford of Marialba and crossed
the Agueda near a mill and then moved on to San Felices, and the
remainder of the Division joined us. Bivouacked. The Division is
divided into two Brigades, the first commanded by Major-General Sir
James Kempt, and consists of the following:—1st Battalion 43rd; five
companies 3rd Battalion Rifles; six companies 1st Battalion Rifles
and 17th Portuguese Regiment of Line under Colonel Rolt; 2nd Brigade
commanded by Major-General Vandeleur; 1st Battalion 52nd; 1st and 3rd
Portuguese Caçadores; six companies 2nd Battalion Rifles. Major Ross's
troop of Horse Artillery still attached to the Division.
[Sidenote: 22nd]
At daylight, moved forward and passed Santiespiritus and the river
Yeltes to Martin del Rio, where we bivouacked. This river rises in the
Sierra de Françia, connected with the Gata mountains, and falls into
the Huebra. The whole army now advanced in a most efficient state, and
under the most favourable circumstances we commenced the campaign of
1813.
[Sidenote: 23rd]
Marched to San Munoz, upon the Huebra, and under very different
feelings I now passed through the river at the same ford where the
French had cannonaded us on the 17th of November last.
[Sidenote: 24th]
Halted and bivouacked. The Household Brigade joined us, viz. Horse
Guards and Oxford Blues.
[Sidenote: 25th]
Marched through Castro, crossing the Matilla rivulet, and bivouacked a
little beyond the village of Robliza.
[Sidenote: 26th]
Marched some distance upon the road to Salamanca and pitched our tents
near a small stream called the Valmuza, as the enemy's rear-guard was
in possession of Salamanca. About two hours after, moved forward to the
ford of Villa Mayor, upon the left bank of the Tormes, about a league
below the town. Pitched our tents. The other Divisions of the army made
corresponding movements, and General Fane's Brigade of cavalry crossed
the ford of Santa Marta and the Hussar Brigade moved towards the bridge.
The enemy left the place and halted upon the heights in its
neighbourhood. Our cavalry charged the enemy and made some havoc.
The Horse Artillery made good practice at the retiring columns. 200
prisoners and some baggage fell into our hands.
[Sidenote: 27th]
The army halted, and the Spaniards had _Te Deums_ sung in their
churches for being again free from French persecution. I visited the
town.
[Sidenote: 28th]
Marched to near Aldea Nueva de Figueira. Encamped not far from General
Hill's Division. Went to see my brother Maud in the 34th Regiment.
Remained until dark. Having had an extra glass of wine, I had a better
opinion of my knowledge of the road to our encampment than of any other
person's, and in consequence I was travelling about the greater part of
the night.
[Sidenote: 1813 June 2nd]
The Light Division marched early by the road to Toro, and halted for
some time near Villa Buena to cook. Again proceeded close to the bridge
over the Douro at Toro and then halted. A principal arch has been blown
up. We passed over the chasm in the bridge in Indian file by means of
planks having been laid over the broken arch. The guns and baggage
passed through a deep ford.
The 10th Hussars made a brilliant charge at a body of cavalry near
Morales and overturned a number of them, bringing in 200 prisoners
yesterday. About mid-day moved to Tejera Buena and encamped.
[Sidenote: 4th]
The Light Division marched six leagues through a sterile country; the
ground was composed of quantities of chalk. Passed through La Mota and
encamped near the convent of La Espina, on high ground, with a stream
meandering along at the base.
[Sidenote: 5th]
Marched and halted an hour near Castromonte, and afterwards moved to
Villamadarra and encamped.
[Sidenote: 6th]
Marched to Ampudia. The country flat and has little appearance of
fertility. The cottages not so good as the peasantry have generally had
on our line of march.
[Sidenote: 7th]
Marched early this morning, preceded by the cavalry and Horse
Artillery, to Palencia. The infantry followed and encamped close to the
walls of the town, which encircled it. The people were enraptured at
the entrance of the English army, and the same feeling appeared general
amongst all descriptions. We were informed that Joseph Buonoparte
reviewed his rear-guard yesterday and was within their city. This
day's march has been through a rich and very fertile country.
[Sidenote: 8th]
Marched through Fuente de Valdepero and encamped near Monzon. The
weather bad—more like November than June. The villagers everywhere as
we passed, hurried together; the men greeted us with _Vivas_ and the
women danced, some of them in the most ridiculous and droll manner,
to the great amusement of the soldiers, who although labouring under
a heavy load and marching rapidly, often forgot their hardships and
partook in the general mirth and hilarity.
[Sidenote: 9th]
The Division marched to Piña de Campos and encamped near Rio Cieza.
[Sidenote: 10th]
Crossed the stone bridge over the river and passed through Piña and
Fromista. Crossed the Castilian Canal, which for a considerable
distance is raised above the level of the country, and encamped upon
the right bank of the Pisuerga River near Santillana.
[Sidenote: 11th]
Passed over the river by a good stone bridge of seven arches and moved
forward to Villasandino. Encamped near it upon the river Brulles.
[Sidenote: 12th]
Marched towards Burgos. Halted a short time at Castrillo de Murcia
to allow the cavalry to advance up a plain. Made a demonstration by
forming two lines upon the heights over the Hormuza at Isar. Our
cavalry moved forward near Burgos. The Light Division encamped in the
evening at Hornilla, upon the Hormuza River.
[Sidenote: 13th]
Marched very early. A tremendous explosion took place at six A.M.,
which we were satisfied was in Burgos, and afforded us great delight.
I, speaking for myself, would much sooner have a fair field to fight
on, rather than storm a town. I was convinced that the enemy had
evacuated the place, which soon proved to be the case. The castle had
been blown up, and some of the outworks destroyed. We passed through
Argano to Tovar, where we encamped.
[Sidenote: 14th]
Marched through Quintana to Quintanajuar and Poza. The Brigade encamped
in a wood near the two latter villages.
[Sidenote: 15th]
Marched through Villalta and El Almine, the road now winding and
descending for a considerable distance. Entered the vale of the Ebro,
and crossed this famous river over a stone bridge named Puenteareñas.
Our band struck up the "Downfall of Paris." We were much amused at
their wit on the occasion, and we had it followed by a national tune or
two to remind us of Old England and absent friends. Encamped close to
the village of Areñas. The banks of the river here are low, and from
its appearance it must rise and fall very considerably, as the country
is mountainous.
[Sidenote: 16th]
The villages about here are very numerous. We crossed the river Nela,
and encamped at Medina de Pomar, on the river Trueba.
[Sidenote: 17th]
On piquet after a tedious march through a mountainous country covered
with majestic woods. The Division remained on the side of a steep hill
overlooking the vale of Rosales.
[Sidenote: 18th]
Moved off at an early hour through magnificent woods, preceded by a
troop of the German Hussars, followed up closely by the 1st Battalion
Rifles. The Hussars surprised and took the greater part of a piquet of
French, and finding that a Division of infantry was in San Millan,
we made our distributions to attack them. Our Battalion was conducted
by Colonel Barnard through wooded steep ground beyond the left of
the town, the rest of the Brigade being moved forward when we became
engaged. We made a sad example of the enemy in a short time, and drove
_Johnny_ through Villa Nueva to Villa Naña. Several regiments had
formed in column, but were completely cut off. Under cover of night
they dispersed, and got away as they could. Many were made prisoners.
Our 2nd Brigade took all the enemy's baggage. My friend Haggup was shot
directly across his stomach. Our loss was trifling when compared with
the enemy's. We encamped on the Jumiçillo, below Villa Nueva. This was
the first day we had fired a shot since breaking up from our winter
quarters.
[Sidenote: 19th]
The captured animals and baggage were sold and the amount distributed
amongst the soldiers of the 2nd Brigade, although the 1st was the
real cause of its being taken. Crossed the Cunilla at Villa Madera;
passed through Salinas. The water, sparkling and running clear and
beautiful, appeared very inviting. The day was hot, and as soon as the
soldiers got near they dipped their tots and began to swig away. I was
astonished to see the wry faces it produced, and the exclamations also.
"The water is d——d salt here; we cannot be very far from the sea," a
man close to me observed, which made me laugh. The earth abounds with
salt in the vicinity of this place.
At Pobes we crossed the small river Bayas by a wooden bridge, and
formed our encampment.
[Sidenote: 20th]
Halted. I went and dined with my brother in the 34th and returned to
camp in the evening.
Battle of Vitoria
[Sidenote: 21st]
The Light Division moved at daylight, and was joined on the march
by the 4th Division. Passed through Subijana de Morillo and other
villages. On arriving at some heights, the Division drew up. The enemy
could be very distinctly observed in very large force also drawn up,
with the right of his army resting upon the river Zadorra beyond the
village of Abechucho, the centre upon some very commanding heights in
front of Ariñez, and the left upon Subijana de Alva, having a body of
men posted somewhat in advance, on very rugged and high ground named
La Puebla. The river took a serpentine course along their position. As
soon as General Hill opened the ball by attacking the enemy's right,
we moved nearer the river with the 1st and 3rd Battalions. We now had
a fine view of the centre on the heights of Najara, which was destined
to be attacked by the Light, 3rd, 4th, and 7th Divisions. Three bridges
(Tres Puentes) over this river were left undefended by the enemy, and
under a sharp cannonade they were passed. We moved up the heights to
the attack. _Johnny_ was very soon put off them, and took shelter in
Ariñez, which place he held very obstinately, but ultimately was driven
from thence. To the right the mountains ran at right angles with our
front. On their very top you could see the contending parties engaged;
from thence as far as the eye could reach along the line to our left
a continual tiralade going on, the enemy gradually retiring, and the
British, Portuguese, and Spaniards moving close upon their heels. Our
3rd Battalion Rifles was then posted in the village of Villodas, which
was directly under the heights. The French occupied the houses near the
bridge over the river, to prevent our advance there. In the afternoon
the enemy to our front began to make less opposition, and only seemed
determined to get out of our clutches as fast as possible, but they
had to march over a fine plain, which enabled us from time to time to
press them confoundedly. Towards evening, the road became covered with
baggage of every description, artillery, caissons, and French carrying
away their merchandise and plunder by all sorts of conveyances. We were
advancing rapidly. Occasionally a Rifle Man would shoot a horse yoked
to a gun. This stopped the rest behind and blocked up the way. Now and
then a few soldiers would fire shots at us from among the baggage.
Night at last drew its sable curtain over the scene of slaughter and
confusion, and afforded a fine opportunity to many to go in quest of
plunder. We had fought over twenty miles of ground. I seated myself by
a fire with the officers of the company, and was fortunate enough to
get part of a ham and some claret which one of the soldiers had taken
from a cart belonging to the enemy. In a little time we had a variety
of eatables brought by men of the company. I never ate with a better
relish in my life. I lay down by the fire in a French officer's cloak,
which one of the men gave me; he had that day shot its wearer. I awoke
at daylight refreshed and in high spirits.
[Sidenote: 22nd]
The Division fell in and moved by the Pamplona road (the only one left
to retreat by) in pursuit of the enemy. The French had lost yesterday
about 10,000 men killed, wounded, and taken, besides 151 pieces of
cannon, 415 caissons, and the military chest and the whole of their
baggage. King Joseph was so hard pressed that he was compelled to leave
his carriage, mount a horse, and gallop off. General Gazan's wife was
taken, but sent back in her carriage under an escort this morning.
Moved through Salvatierra, preceded by the 1st German Hussars, 14th
Dragoons, and one troop of Horse Artillery. We followed the French, and
found all the villages abandoned by the inhabitants. The Dragoons came
up with the enemy's rear-guard and took fifty stragglers encamped near
the village of Alvisera.
[Sidenote: 23rd]
At daybreak again followed up the retreating French through Ciordia,
passed the river Buranda into the province of Navarre. We found the
enemy posted upon the river at a small village. The bridge, being of
wood, was set on fire. Our Horse Artillery commenced playing upon the
enemy's column, which soon after moved off. We forded the river and
followed the enemy, pushing his rear-guard so fast that several bridges
were not destroyed, so great was the hurry to get away. The French now
hit upon another expedient to retard our pursuit—they set the villages
on fire, but that made us push on the faster through them, and at
Echarri Ariñez we skirmished with some Voltigeurs, but they soon went
off. The enemy again drew up at La Cuenca. The Horse Artillery opened
fire upon their columns, which caused them to retire through Huarte,
our cavalry occupying the place. The Light Division encamped at La
Cuenca, having moved five leagues. The weather very bad.
[Sidenote: 24th]
Moved off with the dawn. Cavalry, guns, 1st and 3rd Battalion Rifles
soon came up with the enemy's rear-guard and attacked it. They fought
for a while and retired as fast as possible to another position. We as
rapidly followed, and again turned the rascals out of it. The roads,
from the quantities of rain, were very bad indeed, frequently up to the
knees. I never in my life saw our Horse Artillery do such wonders in
crossing the country. They passed over ditches and through places that
no one would credit or think possible; the horses were noble animals
and in the finest order. Towards the afternoon we got upon the high
road, _camino real_, from Madrid to Pamplona. The _only gun_ the enemy
had brought from Vitoria was now turned against us. The enemy again
formed up across the King's road, gave us a few discharges of grape
and round shot. Some Rifle Men were ordered to move quickly upon the
flank and attack it, the Horse Artillery giving the enemy a few rounds
of shot and shrapnel from two guns. The Dragoons dashed forward. Poor
_Johnny_ in the hurry to get away overturned gun, horses, and all. The
road had been raised 15 feet over a flat. The side was built up like a
wall. It was just the worst place for miles that the animals and gun
could have been trundled over. Elated with our success, I came up to
the spot, but was sadly hurt at a melancholy spectacle. Five French
soldiers, who a few moments before were in rude health, now lay with
their limbs frightfully lacerated and broken, the fibres hanging in
strings from dreadful wounds, the blood mixing with the mud which their
limbs and bodies were lying in. I, with the assistance of some others,
dragged them upon some dry ground. I pitied them and gave them a
little wine from my calabash. They seemed to wish to be shot; one in
particular requested it as a boon. The sight was too much. I turned
away from it with horror, and if a tear fell, what then! May not a
soldier be in possession of as fine feelings as other men? I have seen
a half-starved soldier give his last crust to a famishing infant.
Occupied the villages of Santa Barafra, Berioplaño, and Aldava, close
to and north of Pamplona.
[Sidenote: 25th]
The Light Division assembled upon the great road in conjunction with
the other Divisions for the purpose of cutting off every communication
with Pamplona. The Light Division moved by a mountain road a little
way out of the range of the guns of the fortress, and had a fine view
of the village of Villaba, on the Arga. Pamplona is a large strongly
fortified town, with a very important citadel of great strength; it is
the capital of Navarra, and situated in a highly cultivated country,
with villages innumerable in its vicinity, nearly surrounded with
mountains, which appear in the distance, one higher than another, till
lost in the clouds. The scenery is beautifully romantic, and, literally
speaking, the land flows with milk and honey.
[Sidenote: 26th]
Marched through Noain and near the aqueduct of Pamplona, a splendid
pile composed of one hundred fine stone arches. Moved forward and
encamped near a village at the junction of the main roads leading from
Tudela and Zaragoza. This was done to intercept General Clausel, if
possible, but without effect.
[Sidenote: 27th]
Marched near Barasoain, rested and cooked. Moved forward by the Zidaco
River, and crossed over it at Tafalla by a good stone bridge. Encamped
near Olite.
[Sidenote: 28th]
Marched past Olite and turned off the Zaragoza road and took that of
San Martin. Crossed over an uncultivated plain of great extent and
halted to cook near Murillo de Fruto, four and a half leagues, in a
pine wood. Proceeded along the river Aragon, crossed it near Galipienzo
by a bridge of stone. The road became extremely bad, resembling a goat
track. The head of the column arrived near Caseda, four leagues more,
at 11 P.M. A great part of the Division bivouacked upon the road-side
owing to the darkness of the night and the harassing march. The object
of this forced march was to cut off Clausel's Division, but this rapid
movement had been anticipated, for, like a skilful fellow, he had
crossed the Ebro at Tudela and then moved upon Zaragoza.
[Sidenote: 29th]
Halted.
[Sidenote: 30th]
Crossed the Aragon at Caseda and proceeded to Sanguessa; encamped near
it. I was sent for wood with a party of men, and as it is frequently a
scarce article, the authorities ordered a house to be given up, which
we very soon had level with the ground and every bit of wood selected
from the rubbish. I was returning to camp when General Picton, who
commanded the 3rd Division, and was coming to his encampment near us,
said, "Well, sir, you have got wood enough for yours and my Division.
I shall have it divided. Make your men throw it down. It is a d——d
concern to have to follow. You sweep up everything before you." Luckily
at this moment I espied General Alten, who commanded the Light
Division, and told him the orders I had received. He was very much
annoyed, and came up to remonstrate with Picton upon interfering with
me in the performance of my duty. I took advantage of it, ordered the
men to pick up their loads and be off. Fighting is a very minor part of
a soldier's duty; he must be a complete man of the world, and if he has
the smallest command, it requires much cleverness to perform his duty
as he ought to do. There are a thousand annoyances thrown in his path
which he must be philosopher enough to laugh at.
Sanguessa is a very good Spanish town with a castle of some strength.
Mina, a most celebrated guerilla chief, took it from the French.
I was hunting about the town for good wine for our mess when a
respectable-looking man begged me to enter his house, and cordially
shaking me by the hand, offered me some excellent wine. I asked him to
sell me a skinful, but he said, "I will not sell, but I will give you
one." My servant was directed to dismount from the mule, and my skin,
which was the skin of a large buck, was soon filled, amounting at least
to seventy bottles of wine. I gave a respectable-looking woman five
dollars as a present. On my arrival in the camp my friends were highly
delighted with my good luck in adding so much to our comforts.
[Sidenote: 1813 July 1st]
Halted.
[Sidenote: 2nd]
Returned towards Pamplona and encamped near Monreal.
[Sidenote: 3rd]
This morning the Light Division assembled upon the main road near
Noain, and moved partly round Villaba to a small village near Pamplona.
[Sidenote: 4th]
The Division sent out strong working parties to throw up works to cover
our piquets before Pamplona, which was now rigorously blockaded. The
4th Division relieved us.
[Sidenote: 5th]
The Light Division assembled from different villages at Sauroren, and
proceeded up a narrow valley to the town of Ostiz, and encamped upon a
rivulet.
[Sidenote: 6th]
Marched up the stream to Lanz, which is situated at the foot of the
celebrated Pyrenean Mountains. Encamped in a fine grove of chestnut
trees. The hills, which are numerous and richly covered with sturdy old
oak and other magnificent trees, with the mountains towering above them
in every direction, the tops of which are buried in the clouds, gives a
grandeur to the surrounding appearance that can only be felt by those
on the spot.
[Sidenote: 7th]
Marched by a most romantic road, and ascended hills, many of them
covered with fine trees, oak, beech, and larch, and the ground covered
with wild strawberries; the valleys delightfully irrigated, and
abounding with fruits, corn, and oil. How soon these peaceful vales
will be disturbed with the noisy din of war! Halted for three hours
upon the side of a steep hill, and afterwards moved into San Esteven,
a charming village, where we fared sumptuously. Major-General Skerrett
took the command of our 2nd Brigade, as General Vandeleur was appointed
to the cavalry. The Bidasoa rises in the Pyrenees near Elizondo,
passing through this valley, and ultimately disembogues itself into the
sea at Fuenterrabia, where it divides France from Spain.
[Sidenote: 14th]
Remained quiet here until the afternoon of the 14th; moved out of the
town and marched and encamped upon the heights above Sumbilla.
[Sidenote: 15th]
The Division at daybreak moved down the Bidasoa by a mountain track,
sometimes close to the river, at other times winding along the side of
the mountain a considerable height from it. On arriving at the bridge
of Lezaca we discovered the enemy's advanced post upon the summit of
a mountain. Ordered immediately to move up and dislodge the enemy,
which was done very leisurely, as the sides were very steep, and it
was necessary not to waste our strength and vigour, as we might have
occasion for it. On arriving near the top the French fired occasional
shots at us, but ultimately we got to the top, and soon made _Johnny_
scamper down the other side. These heights, Santa Barbara, are named
after a convent, the ruins of which still remain. We now had a fine
view of the enemy's position on the Spanish side of the ridge of
mountains which separate France from Spain; at their base stands the
small town of Vera. The Bidasoa makes an abrupt turn close to this
place and runs through irregular and precipitous ground to the sea. The
enemy were dislodged towards evening from Vera, with the exception of
a piquet posted near some out-houses. Our piquet occupied some houses
in the town. The Division encamped upon the heights. The enemy's piquet
now occupied a strong commanding rocky projection, which was placed
immediately over Vera. The enemy's sentry had a bird's-eye view of all
our movements. Our piquet was advanced to the extreme end of the place.
The road which leads into France through Vera is called the Puerto de
Vera. It is a very strong pass, and, from its formidable appearance, a
few men ought to defend it. A Division of the French army have occupied
the strong ground on each side of the pass, and are engaged in throwing
up fieldworks to strengthen the position. Lord Wellington's quarters
are at Ernani, near San Sebastian. The siege of the latter place was
proceeding vigorously under General Sir T. Graham. We remained in our
position, going on piquet in turn till the 25th.
[Sidenote: 25th]
Marched through Lezaca and Yanzi; encamped on the heights near
Sumbilla. Marshal Soult, who now commands the French army, collected
a large force and attacked the passes of Roncesvalles and Maya, which
were carried, and consequently caused us to retrograde, endeavouring to
cover Pamplona, as it was easy to see that Soult wanted to drive the
British army beyond that fortress. San Sebastian was attacked at dawn
this morning by the 5th Division at two breaches. 500 men were killed
and wounded, and the attempt to storm the town failed.
[Sidenote: 27th]
Marched off in the dark and blundered along the whole night. Arrived
at Zubieta after daylight, which was only two leagues and a half, the
roads being very bad, and amongst rugged mountains.
[Sidenote: 28th]
Encamped this morning, and continually heard a heavy cannonade and
peals of musketry, indicating hard fighting upon our right.
[Sidenote: 29th]
Marched to Saldeas at 9 o'clock P.M.
[Sidenote: 30th]
Proceeded to Lecumberri, and afterwards moved into a wood, and encamped
across the high road from Pamplona to Tolosa, about five leagues from
both, supporting the left of General Hill's corps.
[Sidenote: 31st]
Marched to Loyza and encamped.
[Sidenote: 1813 Aug. 1st]
Soult having been worsted in all his attacks upon the British, was
now in full retreat, having suffered very considerably in killed and
wounded and prisoners. The Light Division made a forced march this day
by Zubieta, along a mountain track on the left bank of the Bidasoa to
the bridge of Yanzi (the distance about eight leagues), the greater
part of the day under a burning sun, which sadly exhausted the men,
but they cheered up on seeing the enemy, and made the attack with such
real pluck that the latter was soon scampering across the bridge in the
greatest hurry. This body of the enemy had merely occupied the bridge
to protect the march of a column moving from Sumbilla. Our 1st and
3rd Battalions took possession of some houses near the bridge, and a
tiralade was kept up until dark, the enemy's force being so formidable
from the beginning, that it was not deemed advisable to push on. I lost
this little affair by being ordered to remain at Loyza a sufficient
time to try by court-martial, Sergeant Hayes. It came on dark before
I got up to the Battalion. I got bewildered in the mountains and lost
my way. The enemy's fires and ours appeared all round me before I gave
up the attempt to find the Battalion, so I tied my horse to a tree,
pulled him some leaves and loose grass, and lay down near him until
daylight. My horse was ill, so the other two officers who had been on
the court-martial were obliged to leave me before dark.
[Sidenote: 2nd]
Joined my Battalion. The enemy had withdrawn during the night. Moved
after them by the road to the pass of Vera, the 2nd Brigade by Yanzi
and Lezaca. Encamped on our original ground and took up the line of
piquets without firing a shot. The enemy remained upon a rocky steep
connected with Puerto de Echellar. It was found necessary to dislodge
this force from that place. In the afternoon the 1st Brigade was drawn
up upon the heights of Santa Barbara, and the 1st and 3rd Battalions
were sent up the face of a craggy steep, almost perpendicular. The
enemy opened fire upon us. Captain Pemberton, who was with my brother
and myself, received a severe wound, the ball passing directly under
the ham. Several men were knocked over as we gradually approached
the top. The enemy made a charge, but were soon stopped; and, a fog
coming on and we still advancing and firing upon them, they gave up
the hill without fiercely contending for it. General Barnes's Brigade,
7th Division, in a spirited manner drove a large body of the enemy
from very strong ground on our right, so that the pass of Echellar was
in our possession. The 17th Portuguese occupied the heights for the
night and we returned to our encampment near the Bidasoa and Vera. The
partisan, General Longa, had remained on the left bank of this river
during our absence, and had thrown up works with a _tête de pont_.
[Sidenote: 3rd]
The 7th Division took up the ground we yesterday deprived the enemy of,
and we resumed our old position upon the heights of Santa Barbara. We
remained quiet here till the end of the month, keeping a good look-out
on each other.
On the 29th, in consequence of the failure of the attempt to storm San
Sebastian, Lord Wellington paid the Light Division a high compliment
by allowing a subaltern's party from each Battalion, total 250 men, to
go as a storming party. My messmate Percival, a most worthy and brave
fellow, being senior, took charge of the party from the 1st Battalion;
2nd Lieutenant Hamilton also went under him.
[Sidenote: 30th]
The town was assaulted about mid-day on the 30th, and after
considerable delay and very hard fighting the breaches were entered,
and the place fell into our hands, the principal part of the garrison
having retreated into the castle, which completely commands the place.