Fúlbe all around, skirted by a watercourse on the east side, and
bordered by a mountain at some distance towards the north. Pass another
watercourse on the road, which runs towards Hína. About eight or ten
miles N.W. from Búllemi, and about sixteen or eighteen miles E. or
E.N.E. from Saráwu, is Ngómna, a large pagan village of the Falí.
4th. Méso, a considerable Púllo settlement, which is said to possess as
many as 200 horses; it is situated in an entirely open country, and is
near a watercourse, which is said to run N. (?) and to join that of
Doérnum. On the road the village of Hámma Gári is passed, which was
formerly the residence of Ísubu (Yusuf) Derbé, the father of Ardo
Badéshi. If a man walk well, he can reach Méso in one day from Saráwu.
5th. Péske, a Púllo settlement and residence of ʿAbdú, a brother of the
governor of Méso and Badéshi, in an open valley plain, and with a small
watercourse on the west side.
6th. Gidér, the place above mentioned, inhabited by pagans and Fúlbe,
and skirted by a watercourse, which is said to be joined by three others
near a place called Kólla, and to run towards Máyo Kébbi. Gidér is
properly a district comprising four villages situated on the tops of
mountains. There are two roads from Péske to Gidér, one more direct,
leading straight through the mountainous wilderness in an easterly
direction, while another, passing by a place called Yáji, forms an
angle. Gidér is about eight miles north from Báinga or Báila; you may
easily reach Gidér in one day from Méso.
7th. Soráyi, a place inhabited chiefly by pagans, and having but a few
Fúlbe, with a small watercourse on its south side; arrive about noon,
direction east.
8th. Bínder, a large town, inhabited by Fúlbe, arrive in the morning.
From Bínder to Káfta-Báudi, the place mentioned above, is one day and a
half N.N.E., spending the night in Gajám, where you arrive late in the
afternoon, having passed on your road the village of Torók, then Goy,
Kosére, and, further on, Búsu; arrive the next day, before the heat, in
Káfta-Báudi.
_From Gidér to Fátawel._
1st day. Encamp in the wilderness between two and three o’clock, P.M.;
country mountainous.
2nd. Gázabá, the place mentioned above; arrive early in the morning. The
road, as far as this place E.N.E., now turns a little south from east.
3rd. Mískin, a Púllo settlement in the plain; arrive in the morning.
4th. Míndif, a considerable Púllo place at the east and N.E. foot of
Mount Míndif, or Méndefi. There is another road from Gázabá to Míndif,
turning round the south side of the mountain, and passing first by Kadé,
the residence of Ardo Béle, then by Salág.
5th. Máudi, a large place, residence of the Lawán Sʿaíd, who is said to
have a good many horsemen under his command; the country intersected by
several small watercourses. Direction a little north of east.
6th. Fátawel, an important place, residence of the chief Mʿallem Hámma
Yegúdu, and the principal ivory-market in this part of Africa. Indeed it
is so celebrated that people in Bórnu generally suppose its name to be
that of a large region. About ten miles east of Fátawel is Darám or
rather Darám-sulú, a large place inhabited by many Kanúri, as well as by
Fúlbe, and the residence of the chief Ardo Kalíbi, and south from it
another place called Gájia. I here subjoin the road from Bága, on my
Músgu route, to Fátawel.
1st day. Kadé, not the village before mentioned, nor the place where
the Músgu chief Ádishén at present resides, but originally a part of
the same district, which at present forms a Púllo settlement and
residence of the chief Ardo Júlde (“chief of the Moslemín”).
2nd. Káya, a Púllo settlement, residence of Ardo Ísa (or ʿAísa, that
is, Jesus), a short march. East from Káya, at no great distance, are
the Púllo settlements Bágané and Gúmbulé, and south of the former the
sister towns Káfta-Báudi, Káfta lying on the north, and Báudi on
the south side of a shallow watercourse, “fáddama,” or ngáljam, and
being ruled by one chief, Ardo Béllo.
3rd. Fátawel, early in the morning.
4. ROAD FROM MÉSO TO ÍSSEGE, BY WAY OF HÍNA. DIRECTION NORTH.
1st day. Dabá, a pagan village, with but a small number of Fúlbe, in a
very mountainous district; about noon.
2nd. Hína, a pagan village of the Mózogoy, a tribe nearly related to the
Marghí, and probably, therefore, another branch of the Bátta. Their
chief has a house at the foot, and another on the top, of the rocky
mount round which the place is situated.
3rd. Udábunú, a village situated at the foot of a rocky mount, and
inhabited by pagans. Arrive about two o’clock P.M.
4th. Madágalí, a pagan village; a long march ascending and descending in
a mountainous country with many small watercourses.
5th. Íssege, the Marghí place on my own route; a long day’s march.
Before reaching the place, cross a river running northwards.
_From Múbi to Hína_, E.S.E., _is one day._
Keep along the rivulet of Múbi as far as Bá, where you leave it; reach
Jímmi at noon, and Hína between three and four o’clock P.M., marching at
an expeditious rate.
5. ROUTE FROM GÉWE TO KÁRNAK LÓGONE.
Not a direct road, but, such as it is, often taken by pilgrims.
Corrected from the statements of several informants.
1st day. Bázuma, the Púllo settlement mentioned above, residence of
Yamhúra, in a plain without watercourses, but having generally stagnant
pools; a short march, east.
2nd. Badéshi, the Púllo settlement mentioned above, situated at the
northern foot of a mountain; a long march; arrive between three and four
o’clock P.M.; direction N.E.
3rd. Báinga or Báila, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous district,
residence of ʿOmáro Mbílla; a very short march, of about six miles.
4th. Bínder, the Púllo place mentioned above, in a plain; in the dry
season stagnant pools, in the rainy season running water. A very long
march, from early in the morning till sunset; direction N.E. Road
unsafe, the country not being entirely subjected by the conquering
Fúlbe. A little after noon pass close by Bizér, one of the strongholds
of the Mbána.
5th. Lára, a Púllo settlement, with a mountain towards the west; arrive
in the forenoon; direction north.
6th. Míndif, the Púllo settlement mentioned above, at the foot of the
high mountain of the same name. Among the Fúlbe live a few pagans of the
tribe of the Zummáya. A short march a little north from west. There is
another more western and more frequented road between Bínder and Míndif,
leading by Bobóyo, which is about half-way; between Bobóyo and Lára are
the places Ghadás and Kílgim, and between Bobóyo and Gidér the villages
of Múmmur, Tóde, and Lam, at about equal distances in succession, Múmmur
lying a few miles south from Bobóyo, and Lam about ten miles north or
N.N.W. from Gidér. This whole district seems to be very mountainous; and
it is therefore difficult to lay down the roads with any certainty.
7th. Máudi, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous district without
rivulets; a short march N.E. There is another place of the same name at
no great distance, but inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Zummáya.
8th. Yúlguf, a Púllo village near a small mountain; the country in
general level; short journey; direction, N.-E.S.E., at a short distance
from Yúlguf, is a small place called Yólde, or Yúlde.
9th. Bálazá, a Púllo settlement in a level country; a short march east.
10th. Bógo, the considerable Púllo place, mentioned above, residence of
Lawán Gári; arrive about noon; direction east.
11th. Bálda, a pagan village on the top of a small mount. Short march,
east.
12th. Malám, the border settlement of the Fúlbe, towards the Músgu
country, and formerly the residence of Khúrsu, who now resides in Bógo.
At a short distance south from Malám is another smaller place of the
same name, with the surname Jébjeb. The informant from whom I first
wrote this itinerary, Abú Bakr ben Nʿam, before continuing his direct
road eastward, entirely retraced his steps westward from this place,
after he had already changed his direction in Bógo, which is S.E. from
Malám, visiting Márruwa, which is about thirty miles west from Malám,
and thence returning S.E. towards Fátawel, which is about the same
distance, or a little more, from Márruwa. Malám is about thirty miles
S.S.W. from Wolóje, on my Músgu route.
15th. Wáza, a small village, consisting of two hamlets, and belonging to
Lógone; a few Fúlbe families are settled here. The country level, with
the exception of a few detached rocky hills. This is the place where we
encamped on our return from the Músgu expedition. Abú Bakr passed two
nights in the wilderness between Malám and Wáza, which is full of
elephants and wild oxen (“mbánna”); but an expeditious traveller will
make this journey in one day, from early morning till about five o’clock
in the afternoon. Direction, N.E.
16th. Jínna, a considerable walled town of the territory of Lógone, in a
plain richly clothed with trees, an important market for ivory, and
distinguished by its fine matting and lattice-work. A man who wishes to
travel direct in going from Malám to Jínna does not touch at Wáza, but
leaves it at some distance north.
18th. Logón Bírni, or Kárnak Lógone, the capital of the small kingdom of
the latter name. On this march a bare wilderness, called by Abú Bakr,
“Fíli Obája,” stretches out towards the south. On the road are three
villages.
6. ROUTES TO AND IN THE PROVINCE OF BÚBANJÍDDA AND MBÁNA.
i. _From Gúrin to Ray-Búba, the capital of the province of Búbanjídda.
Rate expeditious. Direction east._
1st day. Chébowa, the Púllo settlement mentioned above.
2nd. Kauyen, called by other informants Wóyene, a small Púllo
settlement.
3rd. Bóngi, another Púllo place, situated on the Bénuwé.
4th. Bidéng, another large place, inhabited by Fúlbe and Dáma, residence
of a son of Búba, and occasionally also of many wealthy inhabitants of
the walled town Ray Búba, situated on the máyo Dóro, which, near the
place Bóngi just mentioned, joins the Bénuwé, the place Dóro, from which
it takes its name, lying between Bidéng and Bóngi. Another more
southerly and more direct road leads in one day from Wóyene to Bidéng,
passing in the morning by Agúrma, a large Púllo settlement upon which
Wóyene is dependent, and crossing at noon the Bénuwé.
5th. Ray Búba, the capital of the country of the Dáma, a family of the
Falí, called at present Búbanjídda, from the Púllo conqueror Búba, a man
of the tribe of the Hillegáwa, and his mother Jídda. The town, being
strongly fortified and surrounded by a wall, with four gates, lies on
the máyo Chubí, which joins the Bénuwé.
ii. _Three different roads from Ray-Búba to Ribágo. Direction north._
(_a._) _The westernmost._
1st day. Bidéng or Bidáng, the place just before mentioned.
2nd. Bóngi, residence of the Púllo chief ʿOmár Gári; cross the Bénuwé.
3rd. Sáini, a Púllo settlement, residence of a chief called by my Kanúri
informant, Mʿallem Fébe, probably from his rich possessions of cattle,
“fé.” Before entering the place, cross the river Bénuwé, which skirts
its southern side. On the north side of the place is a high mountain. In
this place the road from Ray to Ribágo is joined by the general road
from Géwe to Ribágo, from Géwe to Dýllemi, about ten miles south along
the eastern bank of the Bénuwé, from Dýllemi to Bóngi, passing by Dóka,
about eighteen miles, and from here Sáini, at a short distance.
4th. Gámfargó, a Púllo settlement; short march.
5th. Ribágo, or perhaps more correctly, Ribádo (“the prince’s
residence”)[169], a large and important Púllo settlement, the residence
of the powerful chief Bágeri (Bú Bakr), and situated on a watercourse of
some size, called by the Fúlbe “Máyo Gelangéro,” which joins the river
Bénuwé at a hamlet called “Rúmde Hámma Salátu,” distant from Ribádo two
days’ journey, sleeping the first night in a village of the Dáma, called
Úro Kanáwachi[170], which is reached about two o’clock P.M., and
arriving in Rúmde the next morning.
(_b._) _The middle road._
1st day. Lifóro, or Livóro, a cluster of two villages, one inhabited by
pagans of the Dáma tribe, and the other by Fúlbe; arrive at noon.
Wilderness the whole way.
2nd. Bárgirám[171], a Púllo settlement, and residence of a chief of the
name of ʿOmáro; about noon. Dense forest the whole way.
3rd. Ribágo; a long day; arrive between four and five o’clock P.M.
(_c._) _The eastern road._
1st day. Bágalá, a Púllo settlement. About twelve miles S.E. from this
place lies Bére, which will be mentioned further on.
2nd. “Bári hosére” (Bári the rocky hill), called so to distinguish it
from another Bári, a Púllo settlement; before noon. Bári hosére is ten
or twelve miles east from Bárgirám, and about fifteen miles N.E. from
Bére.
3rd. Nákiri, a Púllo settlement; before noon.
4th. Ribágo. Expeditious travellers often make the journey from Ray to
Ribágo in two days, passing the night in the farming-village Úro Íbbe.
iii. _From Ribágo to Saráwu._
1st day. Lapáre-, or Lafáre-Fulfúlde, in order to distinguish it from
the pagan village of the same name, Lafáre Héferbe (plural of “keféro,”
“the infidel”); arrive before noon. N.N.W.
2nd. Wógoló, Fúlbe; forenoon.
3rd. Láyade, Fúlbe; arrive about noon, having passed on the road a place
called Bay.
4th. Saurogúmji, Fúlbe; arrive about noon, having some time before left
on the right the place Méso.
5th. Saráwu; arrive about four o’clock P.M. Soon after starting in the
morning, the road is joined by the path coming from Méso; and then you
pass the villages Dýllemi and Doernum.
From Ribágo to Báila is one day’s journey from early morning till about
three o’clock P.M.; direction north. Pass in the morning a village
called ʿOmáruwá, or more correctly Manjáula ʿOmáruwá (“the village of
ʿOmár”), and about noon Búsa, both of them situated on the north side of
the máyo Kébbi. In time of peace between the Mohammedan intruders and
the pagan natives, the cattle of Báila are driven into the rich pasture-
grounds of this valley. This valley, as forming almost a natural
communication between the Bénuwé and the Shári, and in this way between
the Gulf of Benín and the Tsád, is of the highest importance, and will
receive more illustration further on.
iv. _From Géwe to Lére. Rate very expeditious._
1st day. Óblo, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous country. A long day’s
journey, direction N.E. Óblo is about ten miles north, or a little west
from north, from Ribágo, passing by Lafáre.
2nd. Bifára, an independent pagan place, in a large green valley or
fáddama, “chókel,” with a perennial rivulet, the máyo Kébbi, an eastern
branch of the Bénuwé. The place itself lies on the north side of the
valley, while on its south side there is a mountain.
3rd. Lére, a large pagan place of the Mbána, and residence of the
powerful chief Gónshomé, who is greatly feared, as well by the Fúlbe as
by the Kanúri. In the beginning of 1851, shortly before my journey to
Yóla, in consequence of an expedition on a large scale being undertaken
against him, he had been obliged to acknowledge, in a certain degree,
the supremacy of the Fúlbe; but soon after, he again shook off all sort
of allegiance. The situation of the place seems very strong, by reason
of its position in the swampy wooded valley, which, according to all
information, must have an immense extent. The larger valley, which comes
from the east, is here joined by a small watercourse, which is said to
descend from Bínder, and is identical, I think, with the máyo Saréndi.
The Mbána form a numerous tribe, extending as far as Gidér, in which
direction Bizér, Jabéri, and Lam are three of their chief frontier-
places.
In going from Géwe to Lére, a person can also make stages in the
following places: first night in Lafáre, the village mentioned before,
situated on the N.W. side of the máyo Kébbi, where he arrives between
two and three o’clock P.M.; second night Búsa, a Púllo village on the
north side of the máyo Kébbi, where he arrives about noon, having left
in the morning the village of Óblo towards the north; on the third,
between two and three o’clock P.M., he arrives at Lére.
v. _Ray to Lére._
1st day. Livóro, the pagan settlement of this name, in subjection to
Búbanjídda; the country level. Arrive about noon.
2nd. Bére, a large Púllo place, with Mʿallem Ádama Agúrmama, who is said
to be able to bring about a thousand horse into the field. Agúrma, his
native place, from which he has received his surname, lies one day and a
half from this place beyond the Bénuwé. A person going thither from
Bére, passes the night in Gúmbolí, lying on the east bank of the river,
and in the morning reaches Agúrma. About twelve miles north from this
Bére lies another smaller Púllo place of the same name, surnamed
Gárgabe, from a relation of Ádama’s; and east of Bére Gárgabe lies Bére
Malómaró; and further eastward Jóro Súki, while to the north of this
latter is situated the place of Mʿallem Hámma Duwé.
3rd. Duwé, the Púllo settlement just mentioned; a long march through a
plain country, there being only an isolated mountain on the east side of
the road.
4th. Lére. The watercourse of the máyo Kébbi, or Íbbi as it is also
called, has so little inclination that the informant from whom I wrote
this itinerary thought it joined the Shári.
vi. _The valley of the máyo Kébbi, from Óblo to Démmo, my furthest point
on the Músgu expedition, which will be described in the following
volume._
Going from Óblo to Lére, along the wide and luxuriant fáddama of the
máyo Kébbi (direction east), you first pass Búsa (see above), then
turning southward along the sweep of the valley leave Manjáula, the
village of ʿOmár, also on the north side of the valley, about eight
miles S.E. from Óblo; then you leave Kacháwu, situated at the foot of a
mountain which is visible even from Báila, on the south side of the
valley; then Bifára, a considerable place, on the north side of the
valley, and distant from Bínder three short days, arriving on the first
day, before the heat, in Zábeli, the second about the same time in
Míndang, a place of the Mbána which has been ransacked by Mohammed
Lowel, and on the third day reaching Bínder about noon. Having passed
the night in Bifára, the following day you leave Gégo on the south side
of the valley, and further on Góngudúk, the birth-place of the father of
the famous pagan chief Gónshomé, on a small island in a lake or large
pond formed by a stemming of the shallow waters of the river; about noon
you reach Lére. S.W. from Lére, and S.E. from Góngudúk, is another place
called Filléngtenáne. Going from Lére to Démmo, you pass the first night
in Máyo Lédde, a Púllo settlement governed by Ardo Chídda, and situated
on a watercourse of the same name, which a little further north joins
the máyo Kébbi; arrive here between two and three o’clock P.M. On the
second day arrive before noon in Dóre, a Púllo settlement, still
proceeding along the fáddama of the máyo Kébbi; and about ten miles
further on you come to the Túburi or Túfuri, from whence Démmo is half a
day N.E. But between Démmo and Túburi the fáddama is apparently
interrupted, this rising ground of very little elevation forming the
water-parting between the Niger and the Tsád.[172]
vii. _From Chébowa to Láme._
1st day. Ngóng, a district consisting of two large villages inhabited by
Fúlbe and pagans, and the residence of a chief called Njébbo. The
country level; arrive between two and three o’clock P.M., having crossed
the máyo Dúkka, which further on joins the Bénuwé.
2nd. Báme, a place inhabited conjointly by Fúlbe and Kanúri, the former,
however, predominating. The population of Dýllemi, which is at some
distance to the north, on a creek or inlet (ngáljam) of the river, also
unites these two different elements. A short march, direction east.
3rd. Dóga, on the west bank of the Bénuwé, which is crossed here; the
country flat.
4th. Gámsargú (identical, I think, with Gámforgó, p. 604.), a place
inhabited by Kanúri and Fúlbe. Short march.
6th. Nákeri (see above). An expeditious traveller, starting from Báme in
the dry season, may reach Nákeri early in the afternoon, crossing the
Bénuwé at a place called Lágeri, and leaving Dóka to the south, then
passing Gámsargú, and leaving Séni to the north.
7th. Bári hosére, a large place inhabited by Fúlbe, and the residence of
the chief Hámed, who is dependent on Bágeri, the governor of Ribágo. The
place is skirted on the east side by the máyo Hílle, being joined by
another stream, called Máyo Dóro (not the same as that mentioned above),
and which is said to join the máyo Kébbi.
8th. Bére Gárgabe, the place mentioned above, which may also be easily
reached in one day from Nákeri, leaving Bári hosére a little southward.
This place is also skirted by a stream called máyo Súk.
9th. Láme, a large village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Mbána
and by a few Fúlbe, in a flat country with a river which is stated
(although the fact seems improbable), by all informants unanimously, to
join the Shári, or rather Serbéwel (the river “Arre” or “Éré” of the
Músgu), and which seems to be the same with the máyo Súk near Bére
Gárgabe, called so after a place named Súk, which you pass early in the
morning. From Láme to Lére is a very long day’s march of about thirty-
five miles, direction N.N.W.
viii. _From Ray to Láme and Lága._
(_a._) _Northern Road._
1st day. Lifóro héferbe, the pagan village of that name lying about
eight miles east from the Púllo village of the same name (Lifóro
Fulfúlde); arrive at noon. North.
2nd. Bére, early in the forenoon. N.N.E.
3rd. Láme; east.
(_b._) _Southern Road._
1st day. Dámtogó, a Púllo settlement; the country level, broken only by
detached hills.
2nd. Dáli, a pagan village.
3rd. Láme.
4th. Duwé, a pagan village; the country well cultivated. Short march,
east.
5th. Máfalá, a pagan village. None of these pagans are tattooed. About
noon; direction E.S.E.
6th. Lága, or Láka, a large place inhabited exclusively by pagans (of
the tribe of Mbána) who tattoo the left cheek and cheekbone; or rather,
according to more accurate information, the men make a scar on the
forehead and above the nose, while the women tattoo the right arm and
shoulder.
ix. _From Démmo, my furthest point in the Músgu country_ (see Vol.
III.), _to Lága, at a most expeditious rate._
1st day. Dáwa, a district with two rocky mountains inhabited by the
Túfuri or Túburi, a tribe of the Falí, and with a large shallow stream,
which forms the beginning of the máyo Kébbi, and which, according to
this informant (Mʿallem Jýmma, a very intelligent Shúwa chief, of whom I
shall speak in the following volume), receives the waters of the ngáljam
of Démmo.
2nd. Kéra, a village inhabited by pagans, who perforate their lips; a
long day’s journey.
3rd. Láka, a large pagan place, in some degree dependent on the lord of
Búbanjídda, who extends his ghazzias, or rather “kónno,” as far as this
place. The country is level, with the exception of a small rocky
eminence. A rivulet which skirts Láka has, according to Mʿallem Jýmma,
its inclination towards the river Serbéuwel, a statement which wants
confirmation. The inhabitants, according to this informant, tattoo the
breast.
Having traced, along the thread of these itineraries, the conquests of
the Fúlbe towards the east and north-east over the regions inclosed
between the Bénuwé and the Shári—a country which is sometimes pre-
eminently called Jemmára, or rather Jemmáʿa, because the revolutionary
and reformatory principle of the Fúlbe has here developed itself with
eminent success,—I now return in the opposite direction, in order to
follow the progress of these enterprising and restless people in their
advance towards the Bight of Benín. The first effect of their advance is
assuredly most calamitous, their road being marked by the ashes of burnt
villages and the blood of thousands of unfortunate creatures; but, on
the other hand, they have laid open these regions to inquiries which may
be followed up by more efficacious proceedings; and it may be reasonably
questioned whether these countries would ever have been opened to
extensive commerce if they had remained in the hands of a motley
multitude of petty pagan chiefs.
1. ROUTES TO BÁYA.
i. _Route from Ray Búba to Báya, a little west from south._
1st day. Hosére Chólle (the “Bird Rock”), a village lying round an
isolated rocky hill where many of the wealthy inhabitants of Ray have
second establishments; about noon.