regard to that interesting region on the river Bénuwé, I now proceed to
subjoin a few details illustrating the geography of the provinces
between Yákoba and Katágum; for the country between the former place and
the Bénuwé will, I hope, soon be amply illustrated by Mr. Vogel’s
observations, who seems to have traversed the triangular tract of
country inclosed between Gómbe, Yákoba, and Hamárruwa in several
directions, and to have come into intimate, though at times hostile,
contact with the natives. The position of Gómbe, which he has fixed by
astronomical observations in lat. 10° 49′ N., and long. 10° 16′ E., is
an important check upon the construction of the materials obtained by me
with regard to this tract of country; and I openly confess that, with
regard to Gómbe, which I had no means of connecting with a southern
point, I have erred in laying it down much too far south, while with
respect to the latitude assigned by me to Hamárruwa, which I was able to
connect with Yóla, I have scarcely erred a single mile—a result which I
hope will inspire some confidence in my numerous geographical deductions
from native information.
I start from Katágum, a place twice visited by Captain Clapperton, and
laid down by him correctly, no doubt, with regard to latitude, while
with regard to longitude it has to be shifted, as I shall elsewhere
show, about forty geographical miles further west.
ROUTE FROM KATÁGUM TO GÓMBE, THE CAPITAL OF BOBÉRU.
1st day. Early in the morning, between nine and ten o’clock, you reach
Sókkuwa, a large place surrounded by an earth wall on the western bank
of the “kogí-n-Katágum,” the water of which is used by the inhabitants
for drinking. In the dry season there is no stream of running water, but
merely stagnant pools. The houses of Sókkuwa are built partly of yumbú
(clay), partly of shíbki (reed). A market is held here every Saturday.
On the road many small villages are passed.
2nd. About eleven o’clock arrive at Kéffi, a large village surrounded by
a stockade, and belonging to the province of Katágum. Many small
villages on the road.
3rd. An hour after noon reach Hardáwa, a large place surrounded with a
clay wall, also under Katágum. On the road are many villages. The soil
consists of sand, and trees are scarce.
4th. Arrive at Mésau, a large place surrounded with a clay wall, capital
of the province of the same name, and residence of a governor whose
name, or rather title, at present is Yeríma. The houses consist of clay
walls with thatched conical roofs, the palace of the governor alone
being built entirely of earth. A considerable market is held here every
Friday. It seems very remarkable that the inhabitants of this town are
said to be all Fúlbe or Féllani. The soil all around consists of sand.
5th. About noon Dárasó, a large walled place belonging to the province
of Báuchi, to the capital of which leads a frequented route from hence,
which I shall subjoin immediately. In the morning you cross a rivulet in
the midst of the forest.
6th. About two or half-past two o’clock P.M. reach Tawíya, a large place
with an earthen wall now in decay; most of the inhabitants pagans; the
whole country covered with dense forest. N.B. The road from Dárasó turns
a little east from south.
7th. Early in the morning, about nine o’clock, arrive at Gómbe, a large
walled place and the capital of the province Bobéru, which is said to
have received its name from the late governor: the name of the present
one is Koriyénga; his house is the only good building in the town.
ROUTE FROM DÁRASÓ TO YÁKOBA.
1st day. About the ʿaser reach Sóro, a small open place situated at the
western foot of a rock. The road lies through a mountainous country, the
first half of it being thickly wooded.
2nd. About one o’clock P.M. arrive at Kírfi, a large open place at the
foot of the rocks, inhabited entirely by pagans. The whole road is
intersected by high mountains with perennial springs.
3rd. About eleven o’clock A.M. reach Týrrem, a large open place
surrounded by mountains towards the east and south. On the road you pass
several small villages situated on the tops of the mountains, and
inhabited by pagans.
4th. Early in the morning, about nine o’clock, arrive at Yákoba; all the
road mountainous, the tops of the mountains being inhabited.
N.B. The route from Gómbe to Yákoba I shall not give, as my imperfect
itinerary will, I hope, soon be superseded by the rich materials of Mr.
Vogel and his companion Corporal Macguire. I have, however, many
materials for the district hereabout, which may be laid down with great
approximative certainty as soon as an accurate basis is obtained by Mr.
Vogel’s route. For the same reason I will not give the itinerary from
Gómbe to Gújeba, but only connect one important point of this
route—Dúkku, which I hope will have been touched at by my friend, with
Yóla.
This route from Yóla to Dúkku is very dangerous, and is not now taken by
the Fúlbe; but such was the case in the times of their greatest youthful
vigour. I will only observe that Dúkku lies one day and a half E. by N.
from Gómbe. My informant, Mʿallem Katúri, starts from Yóla.
1st day. After crossing the Bénuwé, pass through the mountainous
district of the Zéna.
2nd. District of the Úrgeni, another pagan tribe living on the
mountains.
3rd. District of the Tángalé, a tribe with whom Mr. Vogel has, on his
more western route from Hamárruwa to Gómbe, come in contact.
4th. Fánda, another pagan tribe.
5th. Dembé.
6th. Chongóm. All these are independent pagan tribes, the country being
mountainous. Road very unsafe.
7th. Téra, a settlement of the Fúlbe of Bobéru; here security commences.
8th. Ína, a large town of pagans in a state of subjection. At the foot
of the mountains is a torrent running west, sometimes not fordable; it
probably joins the northern branch of the Bénuwé.
9th. Kámbo, a pagan village.
10th. Kom, a pagan village.
11th. Dúkku.
Dúkku is two days from Gómbe:—
1st. Wángelé.
2nd. Gómbe, the present residence of Kóriyénga, the son of Bobéru the
Púllo conqueror from whom the province has received its name, and the
brother of Suléy. It is situated on the south side of a large
watercourse called Náfada. This place was visited by Mr. Vogel in 1855,
and found from observation to be in lat. 10° 49′ N., long. 10° 16′ E.
from Gr.
ROUTE FROM KATÁGUM TO SHÉRA, S.S.W.
1st day. About ʿaser reach Gubú, a large open place belonging to the
province of Katágum. The country open, partly cultivated and inhabited,
and partly covered with forest.
2nd. About eleven o’clock reach Úzum, a small open village belonging to
the province of Katágum. The whole country well cultivated, with
numerous villages.
3rd. About noon arrive at Shéra, a considerable place, the capital of a
province of the Fulfúlde empire of Sókoto, and residence of a governor.
The place is fortified by nature, its position among the rocks, which
surround it on all sides, leaving only a narrow approach from N.W. and
S.; otherwise, there is no wall. Most of the houses are built partly of
clay, partly of reeds, while the house of the governor consists entirely
of clay. Most if not all of the inhabitants seem to belong to the race
of the conquerors; the consequence is, that there is neither industry
nor commerce, and the market is of no importance.
I here subjoin a list of the more important places of the province of
Shéra, or Shíra, from which it will appear that this territory, although
heretofore scarcely known by name, is not inconsiderable, though greatly
reduced from its ancient extent, when the whole district round Fágam
belonged to it. This comprises the following places:—Fágam, bírni-n-
Máshi, Hósobo-bérajá, Géllamáng, Rábadí, Gerétti, Dándang, Tóba,
Matsángo, Yélku, Zúmborúm-daffatúwo. At the present day there still
belong to the province of Shéra, besides the capital (likewise called
Shéra), Kúrba, Géade, Dóggo, Dógwa, Kádgo, Kárgo, Rími Táshirá, Ándobám,
Dógo-gawán, Dógo-kawé, Dógo-dekáwen, Dógo-dúchi, Dógo-bángaré, Dógo-
damwé, Dezína, Túngom, Gowála, Zábi, Sabáwa, Byllum, Béchimé (on a
rock), Danguzózo, Yellwá garí-n-da-n-Háwa, Gumár, Zákkuwa, Jerégo,
Chínnadé, Hardáwa (I cannot say whether identical with the place of the
same name mentioned above), Goráng (east from the latter), Ázeré (with
iron mines), Chínnadé madáshi, Daláren, Kúrke, Túmperé, Dúnkowy, Póngi,
Zagédebá, Mógonshí, Gadáber, Cherácherá, Gadáwu, Degá, Goré, Itésh,
Jóga, Wóliyá, Gósamé (“garí-n-dáffa kárfi,” place for smelting iron),
Tsáuni, Kolá (“úri-n-saráuta,” “the seat of [the old] government,” where
all the rulers of the country are buried), Sófo-n-garí, Gámbaná, Lájewá,
Zíbbek, Máshemá, Bangaráti, Sírko, Gámbakí, Káwada, Máchi-n-káya,
Dingáya, garí-n-Mallinzáki, Hírfi, Úngobá or Ngobá, Gádaráima, Kóndokó,
Rasáwu, Kórko, Bárring, Mánakó, Wódufá, Tsogú, Kúrnokay, Láfiya garí-n-
Berdagúngome (da-n-ghaladíma Shéra), Lanzedóguwa, Ajángara, Zámmaga,
Fógo, Sáwi shéli-n-jíka-n-Mallinzáki (the residence of the grandson of
Mallinzáki), Yáyu, Dagáro, Kúkokí, Bilkáchuwa, Farí-n-rúwa, Kósomé,
Árzamú, Yákasé, Áffotu, Uzum Zándan, Jegás, Chókkoti, Chafágo, Degágitó,
Galinámarí, Kádiya, Jándogo, Zagáña, Gorán, Nasaráwa, Kílla.
I now subjoin the short itinerary from Shéra to Yákoba, west a little
south.
1st day. Between one and two o’clock P.M. arrive at Fágam, a place
larger than Shéra, surrounded with a clay wall, being the frontier-town
of the province of Kanó towards the S.E. The country is flat.
2nd. About eleven o’clock A.M. arrive at Gánjuwa, a large open place
belonging to the province of Báuchi. All the houses, or rather huts, are
built of reed, only that of the governor consisting of clay. The country
mountainous, with many springs and pools of water; large numbers of
palm-trees.
3rd. About ʿaser arrive at Yákoba; the country mountainous.
IV.—COLLECTION OF ITINERARIES PASSING THROUGH THE VARIOUS DISTRICTS OF
ÁDAMÁWA.
In endeavouring to describe the country by means of this net of routes,
traversing it in every direction and thus controlling each other, it
will be the best course first to connect Yóla, the furthest point which
I have been able to lay down from my own observation, with Hamárruwa,
the furthest point reached by Her Majesty’s steamer “Pleiad”[163] in
September, 1854.
1. ROUTES FROM HAMÁRRUWA TO YÓLA.
(_a._) _Direct route; very unsafe._
1st day. Having crossed the Bénuwé, encamp on the border of the máyo
Badóre.
2nd. A pagan village of the Zená; about four o’clock P.M.
3rd. A village of Hámidu (not the son of Ádama); a long day’s journey;
the whole country is mountainous.
4th. Líma, a settlement of the Fúlbe; about noon.
5th. Yóla; in the morning.
(_b._) _Another direct route, a little more northerly._
1st day. The máyo Badóre.
2nd. Dútsi-n-máifulá (the Capped Mountain), obviously a travelling name
given by the Háusa people to a mountain with a peculiar cone; compare
the expression “shúsh el ʿabíd” (the Slave’s Cap). Before noon.
3rd. Bang, a settlement of pagans, on a mountain; turn round its
southern side. A long day’s journey.
4th. Passam; in the forenoon.
5th. About two o’clock P.M. encamp; leave Líma at some distance south.
6th. Yóla; in the morning.
(_c._) _Route from Hamárruwa to Yóla, by way of Kóncha._
This route makes a sharp angle. Direction, as far as Kóncha, S.S.E.,
then N.E.
1st day. Reach the river Bénuwé about noon, and cross it in the boats of
the Kwána or Kwóna; sleep in Kwánárí, a village on the south bank of the
river.
2nd. Reach a pagan village under the protection of the Fúlbe, and
therefore called by travellers Amána Bárka, in a valley bordered by
mountains; it belongs to the dominion of Ámba Sámbo, the governor of
Chámba.
3rd. About sunset encamp in the wilderness.
4th. Zangó-n-gharáma (a name given to the locality by the Háusa traders,
meaning “the toll-station”), a village, the master of which, called by
the traders mai Chebchóma[164]; levies a considerable tax on the
caravans. “Masr,” or the Egyptian durra, forms the principal food of the
natives.
5th. Reach the residence of the chief Nyagáng. Formerly travellers used
to make a stage in the village of Ardo Kési, situated more to the north;
but this custom has lately ceased.
6th. Mount Chébchi, stretching out to a great length, and crossing the
path; encamp either on its summit or at its base, in the afternoon.
7th. Rúmde ʿOmáru, a slave-village in the plain; about noon.
8th. Kóncha (probably so called because it belonged originally to the
Kwóna or Kwána), the residence of the governor Mohammed Jóbdi (not
Gábdu), a Púllo, who is in a certain degree dependent on the sultan of
Ádamáwa. The place is large, being divided into three distinct
quarters—that of the Fúlbe, that of the Kanúri, and a third inhabited by
pagans; but the dwellings consist entirely of round conical huts, with
the exception of that of the governor himself, which is built of clay.
The eastern side of the town is skirted by the máyo Béli, which in the
dry season is fordable, but during the rains can be crossed only in a
boat. It is tributary to the Fáro, and runs from Kóncha to Láro, from
this to the town of Yáji about twelve miles west from Chámba, and having
been joined by the máyo Íli, which is said to come from Ímber five days
south from Kóncha, in the territory of the Tekʿa[165], joins the river
Fáro at Rúmde Bárka, a slave-village of Ardo Yáji. This river is
confounded by several informants with the Déve, which joins the Fáro at
Búbadáddi. The governor Mohammed Jóbdi is said to possess no less than
10,000 slaves. East of the river, between it and the town, a conspicuous
mount meets the view. Kóncha is a remarkable place, on account of the
wild sugar-cane (not the sweet sort of Indian corn called sébbade in
Kanúri), which is said to grow here in great abundance.
9th. Láro, or more properly “Tírgade Lároma,” a large settlement of the
conquerors, governed by an officer of the seignior of Chámba, and
situated on the west side of the máyo Béli. When you leave Kóncha you
cross the river, and then keep along its south-eastern bank; but before
entering Láro you cross it again.
10th. Dírdiyú, a village inhabited conjointly by pagan natives and by
Mohammedan Fúlbe; the country level. About noon.
11th. Zángi, a place formerly belonging to the pagans Faráng, but at
present inhabited and ruled by the Fúlbe. Numerous elephants and
_mouflons_; at least so says my informant, who nevertheless may have
mistaken buffaloes or other animals for those peculiar to the desert.
12th. Reach Yóla, having traversed a well-inhabited country, and crossed
a small tributary of the Fáro.
2. ROUTE FROM MORÁ, THE CAPITAL OF MÁNDARÁ, TO YÓLA.
Morá was found by Mr. Vogel, by observation, to be in lat. 10° 58′ 38″
N.[166], and in long. 12° 22′ E. Gr.
1st day. Mógashe, a village of Mándará, of middling size, lying on the
eastern side of a range of mountains. Route, S.E.; arrive about noon.
2nd. Fétte[167], a large Púllo settlement, and residence of a powerful
chief called Khúrsu.
3rd. Malám, a large Púllo place, governed by a cousin of Khúrsu’s, from
whence a shallow watercourse runs eastward to join the ngáljam of Démmo
(see Vol. III.). The country is level; arrive before noon. From Fétte
you turn S.W. Malám is a short day’s journey N.W. from Bógo, another
large Púllo settlement.
4th. Kóngala, a Púllo settlement, situated on the upper part of the same
watercourse.
5th. Márruwa (pronounced by many people as if it were Marba), a large
place, the residence of Mʿallem Dámraka, situated on the north side of a
watercourse which joins the river of Lógone. On the north side a
mountain strikes the eye. Arrive before the heat of the day.
6th. Mískin, a large place, residence of Ardo Búba, situated on the same
watercourse. An isolated mountain (Mount Míndif?) rises towards the
east, the country in general being level.
7th. Gázaba, a large place, and residence of Ardo Gazáwa, an old man. It
is a market-place of some importance. Direction, west. Arrive before the
heat of the day. Both places, Gázaba and Mískin, seem to lie in a line
west from Mount Míndif.
8th. Mbóla, a Púllo settlement, and residence of a son of Ardo Jídda,
situated on the same watercourse. The country level; direction, west.
Arrive about noon.
I here subjoin a short itinerary from Múbi (see p. 420.) to Mbóla, in
order to connect this route with the track of my own journey to Ádamáwa.
This road is mountainous and dangerous.
1st day. Úmshi, a pagan village. Arrive about two o’clock P.M.,
having passed Bá, in the mountain-group which I noticed on my
journey to Ádamáwa, and left Jímmi to the south. After having
cleared the mountains of Fíngting, you turn E.N.E.
2nd. Sínna, a village inhabited by Fúlbe and native pagans; about
noon.
3rd. Mbóla, a Púllo settlement; about noon.
9th. Lúlu, a pagan village, the inhabitants of which do not disfigure
their features by tattooing, and wear no barbarous sort of ornament,
except a small reed in the left ear, like the Marghí. Country
mountainous; no watercourses. Direction, south. Arrive between ten and
eleven o’clock.
10th. Mátabá, a place situated in a mountainous district, inhabited by
pagans and Fúlbe conjointly. The deléb-palm or dúgbi, a species of
_Hyphæna_, grows here in great quantity, but only few dúm-palms. The
inhabitants drink only from wells. Direction, south a little west.
Arrival, about four o’clock P.M. Mátabá lies on the road between Dába
and Lam, a little nearer the former.
11th. Gidér, a place situated on the great pilgrim-road from Yóla
eastward, and inhabited by Fúlbe and pagans conjointly. The whole
country is mountainous, and only partly subjected. A watercourse runs
along the east side of the village towards the máyo Kébbi. Arrive about
noon.
12th. Héri, a village inhabited by pagans of the tribe of the Falí. At
some distance east, a watercourse. The country mountainous. Direction,
south. Arrive in the morning.
13th. Báila, a Púllo settlement, residence of Ardo Badéshi, with a small
watercourse. Country mountainous. Short march south, very little west. A
few miles west from Báila is Badéshi, situated in a mountainous region,
and on the east side of the máyo Saréndi, which is said to come from the
south. In the distance, south, a place called Kacháwu is seen lying on a
high mountain with a watercourse at its northern foot, which joins, or
rather is identical with, the máyo Kébbi; this place possessing very
rich pasture-grounds, the cattle of Báila are driven there in time of
peace. Between Báila and Soráyi lies Bizér, about fifteen miles from the
former. Direction, E.N.E.
14th. Nyáwu, a village inhabited by the slaves of Janfúra. Towards the
west, a mountain-range; towards the east, country open. Short march S.W.
15th. Bátema, or Bázuma, the principal and central place of the tribe of
the Falí, at least in former times; at present, residence of Janfúra,
who has about 200 horse under his command. The place is skirted by the
waters of the máyo Dundé, which joins the máyo Kébbi. Towards the east
is a mountain. Short march a little south from west.
16th. Géwe, a large settlement of the Fúlbe, situated on the N.E. bank
of the Bénuwé, a few miles below its junction with the máyo Kébbi. It is
the residence of the chief Sámbo-Géwe, who commands about 100 horse. A
large mountain called Banáwa, inhabited by pagans of the tribe of Falí,
overtowers the Bénuwé. At a short distance from Géwe, a little east from
south, lies Ribágo—not to be confounded with the more important place of
the same name to be mentioned further down, this Ribágo being the estate
of Mʿallem Músa, the governor of Chébowa. In the angle formed by the
junction of the two rivers lies the village Dúli, and east from it
another village called Lángi, the three places lying so near each other,
that one may be seen from the other. A short day’s march west.
17th. Géweke, a small Púllo settlement, under the same chief as Géwe. On
starting from Géwe, cross the river Bénuwé, and traverse a mountainous
country. Short journey, west.
18th. Bilónde, a place principally, but not exclusively, inhabited by
Fúlbe, and situated on the southern bank of the river Bénuwé. Short
march, west.
19th. Gáruwa, a place inhabited by pagans of the Bátta tribe. Arrive at
noon, having passed in the morning the village Badóde, situated likewise
on the south side of the Bénuwé. North, or perhaps a little west from
north, of Gáruwa lies Bángeli, at the foot of a mountain which is
skirted by the river, from which Gáruwa itself lies about five miles
distant. There is another road from Géwe to Gáruwa, which, though making
a circuit, is sometimes taken. Keeping first south, and leaving, after
about four hours’ march, Dúli on your left on the bank of the river,
then turning S.W., you reach Dúkka in the evening, situated on the west
bank of a small rivulet and at the east foot of a large mountain; from
hence, a day along the mountain N.W. brings you to Gáruwa.
20th. Kókomi, a considerable place, inhabited by pagans of the Bátta. At
a short distance west rises a large mount, the western foot of which is
skirted by a watercourse running north towards the Bénuwé. A short
march, west. Kókomi, before the conquest of the Fúlbe, was the chief and
central place of the Bátta, as Bázuma was that of the Falí. A Bórnu
prince is said to have once found refuge here, and to have governed
Gáruwa also. About ten miles south from Kókomi lies Chébowa, a
considerable Púllo settlement, inhabited chiefly by ʿulama of the tribe
of Ulérba, and the residence of Mʿallem Músa. Some people, in going from
Gáruwa to Búndang, take this road by Chébowa, which seems not to be
longer. One day’s march W.S.W. from Chébowa, about twenty miles, is
Mount Kárin, which is rich in iron, and supplies the independent pagan
inhabitants of Mount Alantíka with this necessary article.
21st. Búndam, or rather Búndang[168], a considerable place, the
inhabitants of which are Fúlbe and Kanúri, not far from the eastern bank
of the Fáro, on a shallow branch, backwater, or “chókel” of the river,
while the Bénuwé is a good day’s journey northward. The country is flat,
with sandy soil, and with small eminences of rock projecting here and
there. Arrive at noon; direction west. In going from Búndang to Lamórde,
a good day’s journey S.S.W., keeping along the “chókel” on which the
place lies, you pass first by Úro Búggel, the former residence of Sámbo
Jíkera, then by Turáwa (“the white people”), the residence of Mohammed
Jóbdi, then by Báyaga, and then by Yáske, a Bátta village, where the
road from Gúrin to Lamórde joins our road, and where the Fáro, from a
sweep westward, once more approaches the track.
22nd. Gúrin, formerly the capital of Ádamáwa, but which was not
regularly walled. It lies on the western bank of the Fáro, which here,
from a more southerly direction, turns eastward, running towards
Búndang, from whence again it makes a sweep towards the north: in the
dry season Gúrin does not lie directly on the river, but on a backwater
called “Gúddi.” People crossing from Búndang to Gúrin therefore, a
distance in a straight line of perhaps only five or six miles, as they
drift a great deal with the current, report the river to be of an
immense breadth, and more important than the Bénuwé. A little lower down
from Gúrin, the Fáro is joined by the máyo Béti.
23rd. If you take the northern road from Gúrin to Yóla, you pass by
Fárda; if the southern one, you stay a night in Béti (Binti?), a Púllo
settlement lying on the eastern side of a rivulet (called after it the
máyo Binti?). Arrive in Béti about three o’clock P.M.
24th. By the north road Yebbólewó, on the west bank of Máyo Binti; by
the southern road Gáwo-Nyíbbi, a Púllo settlement, with a considerable
market every Wednesday. The village has received its name from the
circumstance that the Fúlbe, on their coming to this place, found in it
a large troop of elephants, “nyíbbi.” A short day’s journey; and, if you
choose, you can easily go on to Yóla the same day.
25th. Yóla; early in the morning.
3. ROUTE FROM SARÁWU, BY GIDÉR, TO FÁTAWEL AND BÍNDER.
1st day. Bútu, a Púllo settlement in a mountainous district, and a small
watercourse towards N.W. at the foot of a mountain; the inhabitants,
however, provide themselves only from wells. A short march, east.
2nd. Doérnom or rather Doérnomi, a Púllo settlement in an open, well-
cultivated district; a short march, east.